Mechanic here. I can't even begin to list all the things wrong with this. That "grit" is the metal shavings caused by using kerosene. Pro tip: Change your oil at the proper interval and use a quality filter. You will be fine.
I've been a mechanic for almost 30 years and I cringe when I see people doing a flush like this. All that grit is going through your oil pickup and pump and all of your galleries. I've seen peoples oil pump pickup come out so clogged you cant even see the screen
I used to be a GM mechanic at a Chevrolet dealership and had a local mailman who owned a 1972 Impala with a 454 in it We did all of his oil changes and he always demanded 6 quarts of oil and 1 quart of ATF. At around 200,000 miles (with no engine repairs) I changed valve cover gaskets on it and was amazed. The engine was SPOTLESS inside! It looked like a brand new engine! Last I heard was that he got over 400k out of that car with no engine repairs before he sold it and bought a new car.
I use a quart of Marvel mystery oil a few days before I do my oil change. I never get sludge buildup and it cleans lifters and piston rings quite affectively. I’ve tried this technique for 40 years and as an engine builder
Marvel Mystery oil. The mystery is - what is it good for? That's a joke. It's great stuff. I've used it on aircraft engines for years. I also don't have sludge in my engines. Sea Foam is the same stuff.
@@robertthomas5906 I don't know if Sea Foam is the " SAME STUFF " but they both work slowly & are more gentle on the engine. I've personally had better luck ? with Marvel especially for sticky lifters.
I add a quart of MMO to my engine after a new oil change. I don't believe having an extra quart in the crankcase of a 6 quart engine hurts anything. I change at 3000 miles. Never had a problem.
I don't know what the negatives will end up being from this, but even really sludgy engines are usually cleaned up by using premium synthetic oil with relevant additive packages. For example, Mobil 1 High Mileage just indicates to do a few shorter.oil change intervals so the oil can slowly and safely dissolve deposits into solution for removal during the drain.
The grit you have found is in the pan and does not enter the engine oil galleries. This is the sump reservoir that delivers oil to the filter. The filter prevents this debris from entering the engine. If you feel compelled to flush this debris, then pour the kerosene down the dipstick tube with the drain plug removed and capture the kerosene in a container. This will prevent the kerosene entering the engine, diluting the new engine oil, and causing a dry start after the oil change.
In older engines this is actually true. The sludge acts as a seal for all the bearings. That's why you should never clean out your oil like that or even with oil circuit cleaner in an older engine. There are also CONs for this in newer engines with VVT and things like that. As long as you have no problem, don't try it. The cleaner might release grit and sludge, which can go into your VVT solenoids or similar things and block them.
That is true. I have heard that with transmission Flushes. Only change what's in the pan. Ya don't wanna empty out a transmission of all or alot of it's fluid because all the new fluid with all it's detergents will clean all them old ass seals up & all those old ass clutchs out and pretty soon it's leaking & a slipin'. If ya go puttin a solvent in yer oil then YEP it's gonna clean the hell outta some seals & bearings. Not to mention help all the sludge & gunk travel thru the rest of your engine. But wtf do I know. I'm just am old Hellbilly. Hahaa
Just change your oil and filter on time or little earlier, and also use high quality oil and filter, use the right type of oil grade, type and amount, as well as proper oil filter, and it will run good for long time.
I know this is slightly off topic,but I've used Fram oil filters for years until I saw a video with the guy who cut open 4 or 5 popular filters to show how much filter material is inside. Fram failed miserably,but Napa & Wix rated the highest. Needless to say, I paid a few bucks more for the wix,but it's worth it!
Good oil prevents oil sludge buildup. I have 385,000 miles on my truck, use full synthetic oil, change it at 12,000 mile intervals, have it analyzed, and I never had a sludge problem. Oil analysis always comes back good with the advice that I could go even longer before replacing the oil.
The most oil analysis ive ever done went to the extent of cutting the filter open and running a magnet through the drained oil... why would you send the oil off to a lab for an engine with 385,000 godamn miles on it in the first place tho? Yea a motor needs good oil to keep a truckin and will prevent it from killing itself but there are other things that can kill a motor that has had oil changes every time needed..
@@Z-Ack because I bought it new and have a record of the oil conditions throughout the engines life. The analysis includes the bearing metals so you can see which bearings are wearing the most by the amounts detected. For $20 it's worth it to me. Satisfies my curiosity.
@jerrygraves6531 can't remember off hand but I'll get back to you on it. I'm busy doing farm chores right now. BTW, the engine now has 450,000 miles on it.
Back in the 60's the 82nd Airborne would add a half pint of auto transmission fluid to the crankcase for the last 100 miles or so. The motors were spotless when torn down finally. AT fluid is highly detergent but a superb lubricant. No dry start.
Now they have you take samples of all fluids to a lab for analysis and then they tell you if it needs to be changed or any other enomolies. Yes I totally agree about the trans fluid. Its highly detergenated and completely safe. Its also a great way to break in a new motor. ( I learned alot from my father who was one of the best mechanics ever. Also trained & worked 63S USA.) For the skeptics about women mechanics. 😀
We do it to all our fleet of semis during the last 100 miles or so. It’s cheaper and way more effective than most products and safer. Auto tranny fluid is the best. We also use a mix of tranny fluid and paint thinner as a rust penetrate for bolts and screws.
As a journeyman HD mechanic I'm horrified. If you want to destroy your engine and starter this is the quickest way to do it. There are pickup screens before the oil pump and a filter in the circuit. Rotating your engine with kerosene as a lubricant will destroy your mains and valvetrain. This completely disregards oil wedge theory and points to sludge as the cause of most engine failures, not true. Don't do this, bad idea. Also, engine oil gets dark because it has detergents in it, most large diesels will have jet black oil after 30mins of running. Color of oil is less important than viscosity and acid content(or total base number). The creator of this video is not posting proven maintenance techniques.
Hey guys im gonna show you how to prematurely deteriorate your crank seals. So what you need is kerosene. Kerosene is pretty caustic which is ideal for doing the opposite of conditioning. And those pieces of black in the flush may just be one of those, before mentioned, crank seals just breaking down to what would be the equivalent of nibbled cheese. And voila! There you have it folks Kerosene Is rich In fatty properties which remain after the evaporation of the grease. Every time an area or piece of rubber is exposed to a kerosene mixture the rubber Is deprived of more of its strength. Eureka! We've just "F'd up" our crank seals. 👏👏👏👏
So kerosene is pretty caustic but then you say it's rich in fatty properties? Go take a crank seal and put it in a bucket of kerosene and look at it a year later and you will see no deterioration.
Petrol is neither an acid nor is it a base. pH applies to water solutions and Petrol does not dissolve in water, therefore, petrol cannot be classified as either.
Your big end shells are made of a very soft material and have a grove cut in them ! The grove fills with oil so that your crankshaft etc are actually not touching any other metal surface ! ie there is a fine film of oil in-between the two, You add kerosene to that its just metal to metal and you will have scored all those nice soft bearing shells ! Just change oil regularly and let the filter do its work
And what if he just got the car, and it’s oil is disgusting (like this) and you suspect that sludge may be in the oil galleries and the cam phasers and actuators ? Then as long as the engine doesn’t start, there’s really no pressure on the crank bearing and only valve spring pressure (indirectly) on the cam bearings. The vast majority, even of quality mechanics are simply NOT going to pull apart the entire engine to try and save a cheap car, but this might do it. There are lots and lots of cars that already weren’t taken care of, too late to lecture about timely oil changes for those cars.
My first car was a junkyard w126 300se, it hadn't run for years, after ceaning the tank, flushing the gas lines and cleaning the injectors and kjet filter, I decided to tackle the oil. I I drained the oil, removed the sump, cleaned out the sludge and bought the cheapest 5w30 oil, and GUD oil filter I could get my hands on. She started right up, made a bit of tapid noise but idled smoothly. At the time I didn't have a driver's licence, so I asked my dad to drive it to and from work every day for about two weeks. After the two weeks I drained the oil, again it wasn't pleasant, I spent a seventeen year olds equivalent of an arm and a leg on a Bosch oil filter and Liqui Molly's semi synthetic oil for older engines (20w50). Ran like a charm! No tapid noise, instant oil pressure. This is the best way to "flush" your engine in my opinion...
As an auto mechanic I have heard of old school guys using this technique. It’s better to use a quart of transmission fluid with clean oil, granted it can be cheap oil because it’s getting immediately flushed, followed by what you generally run the vehicle on. This is my preferred method. Sure costs alittle more but only needs to be done every 10-15k miles on today’s cars.
Back in the 80's I had a vega with 140psi , it blew the filter gasket Refilled it with diesel fuel, ran it for 20 minutes, drained it refilled with oil Cleaned it right up
On older cars that I have owned; I drain the old oil, replace oil plug, fill up with ATF and run on idle for 20 minutes. Drain, add new oil and new filter. You can also add half a quart of ATF with new oil change and drive for 100- 300 miles to build up oil pressure. ATF does an excellent job @ removing sludge safely as its petroleum oil and it doesn't remove too much sludge or deposits. Gotta be careful not to clog your oil screen.
I agree with most of what you said. But IMO i would not want to run an engine with ATF in the oil, for any longer than 15 to 30 seconds, if even that long. Then I'd drain the oil, change the filter, and refill with some cheap oil to do a "rinse" and run the engine for 15 - 20 minutes. And drain and refill for good, after that. I just have a problem with running the engine with ATF or other solvents in the oil, it seems very counter-productive.
I'd say higher than that since the guy said he uses "synthetic oil" I use royal purple oil and filter, and only change my oil around 12,000 miles and it's NEVER looked that bad.... and the shit starts out purple to begin with
I would like to add, i have tried this method number of times, instead of cranking the engine 50 times, i used to do it 2-3 times only without letting the engine start. In end, i used to blow pressurized air from inlet and have the remaining Kerosene come out from drain with pressure as that would make sure that non is left inside. This method works and you can feel the difference on your engine running smooth. Many people would disagree with the method, its their own choice but this works well.
Whatever is in the sump will stay in the sump, the oil pump will pick up oil and send it thru the filter which will catch the smaller bits. The bigger bits will stay on Tue bottom of the sump. You may save some wear on the oil pump but like many comments here... Just change your oil regularly and use a good filter and you're good.
Madness , a good quality engine flush has a lubricant added , also it cleans out the scraper rings equalizing compression and cleans oil galleries and any sludge through the entire motor .
TheChemist187 I been doing that for year. A qort (nope I can't spell) of ATF about 100 miles before an oil change. I've ran a 3.9 Dakota with 4 qorts of GTX 10W-30 and 1 qort of ATF for four years. Only way I wasn't adding a qort at every red light lol! I've never had one issue. And Lord did I drive that Dakota lol.
Yup if I know my oil is starting to get bad. I put 1 quart of transmition oil to 4 quarts of oil. Run it for 3,000 miles. Always a succes on cleaning up engine.
Bro. I tried Marvel Mystery Oil two weeks ago in just the fuel line and after a week the power in my Jeep with 157k was noticeably improved. A lil extra kick and my mpg improved too. Gonna add Marvel on my next oil change as well to see.
Same results with Seafoam. I got a case for less than $2/bottle so I will be using that for the foreseeable future. Home Depot had a cray price on the case so I grabbed it and ran. I felt guilty. Not guilty enough to not go back 2 days later hoping there was more on the shelf at that price. No dice someone figured it out and changed the price to $8+ bottle.
My GMC had 160K on it when it was sold. Replaced a leaking valve cover gasket just before sale. The inside of the valve cover and the inside of the head was spotless. Oil and filter change every 6K
I’ve been a mechanic for 45 years, and I just want to say, this guy is an idiot! Never do this to your car. Your ex-wife’s car? Sure. But never your own....
I was thinking on the same line you are, probably would plug your engine.Someone wrote that your oil fries at 210°F.The newer cars oil viscosity keeps getting thinner, I used to run 20w-50 in the 400m Ford engines, when I changed the engine would also put a TRW high volume oil pump. I been working on some 80's model 351Windsor HO, getting ready to take one out a1985 E-250 that has 35,000 miles and don't want to turn over after a small fire by the mechanical fuel pump.Also have 1982 1 ton duelly with 1983 351W, I been looking for another small block to put in while I rebuild the 351W HO.Carbuerated, I found a 300-6 cylinder, not sure about it yet.Still looking.
I did that engine flush with a car I had bought. Never again. Looked great at first with all the crap that came out but about 3 months later all the other crud that started breaking lose but did not come out at first stoped up the pickup tube. Don't short cut, drop the oil pan and valve cover and remove that way.
Years ago a friend did something similar except he changed the oil minus one quart and added 1 quart of Kero. He would then run it for about 20 minutes and replace the oil with fresh oil. Never had any issues with his engine and makes sense since you never run the engine with no oil and Kero is distributed throughout under pressure.
But that seems more sane.Dilluting the oil just makes more sense. You are atleast providing protection. But pure kerosine seems like a horrible idea to me.
Another old school way I had been told about is, about 500 miles before an oil change, put in a qt. of trans fluid. Did it a couple of times on much older cars, was no resulting problem from doing that. When I say older, I mean 70's and 80's cars.
Dave here from southern Australia….If you are weird about your oil being contaminated just change your oil filter twice during your cycle…Full synthetic always 5w30 12.000 Kay’s never a drama 🎭 ROYAL PURPLE
Btw - you should ALWAYS inspect the inside of a new oil filter before installing it, because they often have metal burrs/flakes inside where the threads are machined. These flakes are on the FILTERED side, meaning they can exit the filter and go straight to the engine internals. It'd be pretty ironic if the source of the "grit" was the oil filters themselves...
Sorry but that's not entirely true it's machine before they put it together if the flakes went down inside their that is the intake side of the oil it can't get through the filter do your homework
I worked at the oil filter company making oil filters when their employees went on strike. There are not metal contamination inside bran new USA oil filters. They are made with pistons and lubricants sprayed on them threw the entire process so no metal fragments are inside oil filters!
I have a GDI engine....mother of all sludge building engines. I change my oil every 1500 miles to keep on top of the build up. Engine runs alot smoother keeping the oil clean.
@@nolo4133 lol watch the movie light house it’s bw they end up drinking kerosene in the end bc they ran outta Liqour I think it’s called lighthouse it has the dude who played the green goblin and the vampire dude loll from twilight
I've actually seen people do this, I know of a farmer that buys old Massey tractors like from 50s if engine is free first thing he'd do is add 50/50 oil to diesel the diffence is insane its like it makes the oil wetter and you wanna talk about bad looking oil he wouldn't run the engine just turn it over put a blow torch to pan from a distance. I'd never do it in my own Audi, my method is if there's thick gunky oil or extremely black I'd change the oil/filter once a month for 3 months and continue on every 4000, or 9 months.
This works great by the way. Had a 350,000 mile 5.3L chevy look almost Brand new on the inside said the mechanic that put in all new gaskets and oil pump along with a transmission at the time. Did the cleaning at the 250,000 mile point.
5.3L chevy LS "vortec" engine will often go to 350,000 miles if maintained well. A good synthetic or high mileage oil has detergents and anti-foaming agents in then which will clean the carbonized oil "sludge" out of the engine over time. This idiot is putting and pumping kerosene into an engine that also supplies oil to the bearing in his turbo. This guy is an idiot and should not be listened to. If you want to mix something into your oil to help with sludge use a half quart of ATF (automatic transmission fluid). You don't need any special kind since I highly doubt you had an L33 aluminum block 5.3L. You're best off just using a quality oil filter and royal purple oil and change them regularly. I dont know what you drive now but if you want to keep it running good then dont try to lubricate the friction surfaces with a strong solvent like kerosene. Just an FYI. Gotta love those LS engine though.
Your methods may be effective and are well intended. I agree that removing contaminants from an engine is beneficial. However, those pieces (and grit) you show typically don't circulate through the engine and remain in the pan. If they are lifted by the oil pump, then the oil filter will trap them before going through the motor. (Viewers please lookup the filtering efficiency at stated particle size of the oil filter you currently use.) Many will believe that the motor medic flush you showed to be 'basically' kerosene, when in fact its mostly mineral oil with a lesser percentage of kerosene (look up the SDS on the product) because kerosene has little to no lubricity. The fear that viewers may intentionally use straight kerosene as they would the motor flush you showed may be misinterpreted and is real. The average backyard mechanic may not wish to pull a fuse to perform this, and potentially may cause damage by idling the engine until the oil is hot. Keep in mind, in your process there is kerosene left in oil passages through out the motor and this of course will stay with the new oil. This may not be desirable.
If you get kerosene hot enough (well within the normal operating temperature on some components) it can become quite volatile with deadly and catastrophic results. Kerosene has a Flashpoint between 100 and 150F and everything under the hood of your car is usually over 100F. Now it doesn't necessarily combust at 150F, but it's not real hard to get it to combust at that temperature. When I feel compelled to flush an automotive crankcase, I drain the oil, refill with ATF, let it idle 5 to 10 minutes, drain the ATF, replace the oil filter and refill with the correct viscosity motor oil. Some might call me crazy, but at least I'm not putting light volatiles in a pressurized crankcase and then heating it up. Lol
ATF fluid also works very well. You can substitute one quart of oil with it and drive normally on it untill your next oil change. My auto instructor did it all the time.
I don't like the idea of pouring kerrosine into the engine , why don't you just change the oil , run it for fifty miles and change it again , I'd consider this to be much safer for my engine .
Jaber Jaber eeemmm thats not how any of this work, to get the grit out of the engine u have to remove oil pan, lucky my audi has a very simple oil pan and does not need a front axel to be removed like most cars do.
Jaber Jaber , use marvel mystery oil. put one qt when your oil level goes down one. Drive with mmo for a couple of days then change oil and filter. Does a good job plus it removes varnish from the rings. Your engine will run smoother and regain its power.
I just came for the comments. I was not disappointed lol. Your wife's hands look great turning the key. Can you qualify how many people is a lot. I have been around cars my whole life and have never seen anybody remove a pan to remove sludge.
My uncle who was in business for years told me that the best way to change your oil by it's color because if it gets dark it already contained have a blessed day today 🙏
I like the toothbrush ideal, I've seen many oil screens and they are mostly all clogged up. If you are able to reach it with a toothbrush then that's a great idea! Also use a magnetic drain plug to pick up fine pieces of metal.
Magnetic drain plug for modern engines doesn't do much since blocks are made from mostly aluminum these days meaning nothing is magnetic to begin with. When iron blocks were common, yes, using a magnetic drain plug would help.
@Lwnmwrboy5 it's not the blocks that the magnetic drain plugs are used for. It's to collect bearing material which is in every block not matter what it is cast from. And all bearings wear over time not matter how well you take care of the engine.
All that grit in your oil would be a fundamental failure of your oil filter. Likely picked it up from the catch pan or something falling in the catch pan from under the car. Also, not sure those short cranks fully circulate the kerosene which is why a good flush like liqui moly pro flush is a better choice.
Sad to see a car treated like this. I bought a used 1979 Celica Gt in 1987 to drive back and forth to work. The original owner had done 3 or 4 oil changes in 8 years. Surprisingly the car ran pretty good. The 20R engine was a beast. A trusted old mechanic told me what to do to clear some of the sludge. I drained the oil, changed the oil filter, added 2 quarts cheap oil and 3 quarts of transmission fluid. I drove it around for a couple of hours, not revving the engine. Drained the oil and was amazed at the chunks of sludge that came out. I did this once more in a month. I ran cheap oil in the car for the next 3 years. I was told that ATF had high levels of detergents. In 1990 I traded it in for a new Isuzu pickup.
@Moto Guzzi Performing a Full Volume Oil Change will get rid of that kerosene. 10-20% of the residual oil and kerosene will remain. Performing a second oil change after driving on the highway for 20 minutes and draining/change the filter will affectively remove 96-99% of the oil and contaminents. Now the fully formulated oil with all its detergents, dispersants, anti-wear additives will be able to protect your engine much better. No need for mystery oils. Finally, it is 100% safe and affective. Flushes and mystery oils are gimmicks, at worst harmful to your engine.
used motor medic on my 2005 chevy avalanche. 5.3 v8 was ticking and low oil pressure. i ran it for 10 minutes. then i put 5 quarts oil 1 quart atf. no ticking, good oil pressure. it runs great for 237,000 miles.
USED KEROSENE for 35 years on all my vehicles, Fords, Dodges, all kinds all types and never had problems w shavings. Never had any pinging, clicking, or damage, with long life to the motor. New Filters often have thread shavings on them, check your filters. Its also based on how often you do this and also what kind of oil you use, and running the kerosene thru until it cleans the oil pan. All oils allow for some metal wear, cheap oil will shave your motor more, good synthetic not as much.
On several vehicles that have had issues with lifter noise, I cured it with ATF flush, cleans the "gunk" out of the tiny lifter lube holes. I drain a qt of oil out before I do an oil change, add in 1 qt ATF, drive it for a while like that, then do a normal oil change. The results are immediate. To prevent the lifter noise from returning, synthetic oil plus 1 qt Marvel Mystery Oil. Both vehicles have +200K miles and neither leak a drop of oil.
There is why I don't have that problem. I never ever buy Fram filters. Not even the supposedly good Fram filters. I only use Mann filters or Purolator. My car takes a cartridge type filter so there is no hiding bad quality inside a metal can, you can see it for yourself before you put it in there. Then when you change the oil you can see how very well it held up.
@@charleshines6155 you are a man of my own heart, I only will use Mann or in a pinch Purolator in my Bmw or Porsche. Same with my wife's Mini. Never had a filter come apart or not trap everything. Also german cars use cartridge type filters for a reason, so you or your mechanic can check for anything severe happening in your engine like abnormal wear resulting in metal fragments, even seal fragments. In an enclosed spin on filter you would need to cut the filter in two.
@@brandonbentley8532 I bought a Purolator for my Passat and it is the one without the metal can. It looks identical to the Mann filter and is even made in Germany, Oddly the Mann filter for that car is now made in Mexico but I used to see them from Germany. Mann Hummel bought Purolator. The Purolator Boss filter is a white media and close in price to the Mann filter sometimes. Other than the color of the media the two filters are identical. My car is a 2013 Passat 2.5.
we do it with Gasoil in France, and it's called 'diesel flush'. Gasoil is greasier than kerosine. Crank your engine, and let it get to working temp on idle. Flush it twice with mineral oil, to be sure the diesel is fully removed. And then put your final synthetic oil with filter change.
Oil filters are for this very purpose. Oil that darkens in colour (UK spelling) is doing its job keeping contaminants in suspension. I agree that some of the 20,000 - 30,000 mile oil change intervals are probably slightly ambitious but there's no need to flush in the way shown here.
Removed the pan on my engine with over 250,000 miles. It was clean. I took the valve cover also it was clean. I used good oil and changed it regularly. Use a high grade oil filter. I wonder if it could be flammable. Being that it is so thin could it pass thru the rings and clog the O2 sensors. I will stick with my way. I would never use engine oil cleaner either. Waste of money. Rebuilt a few motors . Only thing that cleans the oil pump sump is if you take it out.
I'm no mechanic but I cringed at the kerosene. But he is worried about his engine oil being dirty and goes through the whole process and then before replacing the oil he puts a fram filter on it. WHAT?! Fram? Its barely even a filter. No wonder why you have sludge in your car because you're basically not using a filter at all. For those that use Fram, crack one open and see what's inside. Geez.
Thanks I want to clean old transmission oil I have been storing up about 4 gallons cleaning out my transmissions ,,,,I will try that after coffee fillers first if you use many of them I guess will be best seeing it's a clean filter and don't break down ,,,,on oil I drop the pan these no gaskets there no waiting time I got 285 thousand on a 4 ,,,and it don't like to be run cold ,,,got a block waiting so I'm going to clean the pan and screen on pump it a gear that old and the cam is going so I'm sticking with a little love on the old one
I do a rinse flush with diesel fuel manual transmission and differential. Did the engine oil one time so you can drain oil put diesel fuel in their run for about a minute shut off let soak start up later run for another minute doesn't hurt anything. I did this with the differential switched over to a GL 5 synthetic picked up 2 miles a gallon on the top end.
Nice effort on the vid but unless the engine has been severely abused you just don't need to do this and it is actually dangerous to do on a regular basis. Oil is made to lubricate, scavenge, clean and cool the engine while its running, just change your oil regularly and it will do this job fine. Doing what your doing to your battery and starter is going to stuff them up massively and your going to have stopped the oil being where it needs to be by flushing it with kero, so when you go to start it again there will be metal on metal wear and tear till the oil pump primes which is probably where those metal fragments are coming from. If you want to clean a severely sludged engine then sure this is a way to do it once but this will destroy your engine over time if done regularly.
We put kerosene in our industrial gear boxes during oil changes to remove contamination but we do not rotate the gear box, we make sure to completely drain all kerosene and top off with new gear oil. Never had any major issues but I could see where damaging seals from prolonged "soaking" in kerosene could be an issue.
@@TheFunkymohawk nope... Wix, aka Napa gold filters, are far superior to FRAM. I used to use FRAM and changed every 3k and my oil always looked as dark as the oil in this video. Just went almost 10 with a wix because every time I checked the oil it looked clean! I've always used synthetic oil. I swore off FRAM after one nearly destroyed my phasers...
In the early 80s the old-timers would drain the oil, leave the old filter on and pour in a 50/50 mix of diesel and kerosene, then run the engine for 20 minutes These guys used their pickups every day to check their wells here , and these pickups would run 8 to 10 hours a day continuously 7 days a week. When we would tear em down they were surprisingly clean, especially the ones that ran on propane,. 90 percent of the time the reason for the rebuild was wore out oil pumps and plastic timing chain gears.
Also, do not use the kerosene/motor flush trick on an old engine. the sludge inside is sealing off holes that are in your gaskets and other greasy spots, only do this as a last resort! and another note, after flushing your engine, pull the oil pan to clean off potential sludge/junk that might get sucked up in the oil pick-up tube.
On th same exact audi 1.8t, i had a sludge issue. My vvt tensioner was knocking like crazy. I poured a gallon of diesel fuel similar to the video. Over 3 day i left the car parked with the fuel pump fuse pulled.i would crank for 10 sec a few times a day and when i finally refilled with oil all the issues were gone. So this works of youre careful.
That grit is usually dirt and not something inside your engine. Using transmission fluid is a better way of removing sludge due to it's high detergency but won't thin out your oil nearly as much as kerosene. If you keep up with oil changes there won't be any sludge and if you need to flush out your engine, it means it wasn't well maintained so flushing it out will only make it worse. And if the car you're looking to buy NEEDS an engine flush, it wasn't maintenanced properly so why buy it?
Don't do it. Kerosene is very dry and will strip any remaining lubricant from the working surfaces and it wil damage and dry the seals, causing them to leak. Put about 1/2 pint of diesel in the hot engine before draining the old oil out, let it idle for about 10 mins. (don't drive it) then drain the oil. I have worked on Audis, and they are very prone to sludging; make sure you use a fully synthetic oil and change regularly, more often if they are doing short trips or in adverse weather conditions.
I’m no engineer or mechanic (am a simple retired Gynecologist) but felt that by just trying to turn the engine like that would not make the kerosene to circulate in the engine. Besides Kerosene is extremely corrosive and damages rubber parts. I personally think filling the engine up with surgical spirit and running the engine a few minutes is better, then remove the sump clean it, clean the internal oil filter, and allow the spirit to dry over night, remove the spark plugs drop some oil down the cylinder and fill with fresh magnetic synthetic oil and start the engine.
Not really, I rebuilt starters for a while and in my experience it was the long cranking that over heated the starter due to heat cause the persons car would not start, or just old age
Randizle Peregoy i agree. Had put in a new started on a old 4cyl wagon and one day flooded steets got water got on the ignition system since i was missing splash shields and cause the engine to die out and i tried to start the engine over and over again since i was in a bad spot trying to get it started. Held the starter on for about 10 sec each attempt. Eventually draining the battery. Ever since then, the starter acts funny from time to time by not activating when the key is turned.
One question - isn't the oil filter supposed to filter out all this grit to stop it from circulating around the engine when it filters out the engine oil?
this has been done since the 50's, it does work but you have to not be silly. why way back in the 50's+? cuz motor oil used to not have alot of detergents in them.
Interesting video , did a similar process with straight 93 octane, only because my ecm went bad and was just flooding the engine with fuel lol , pulled the drain plug it definitely flushed everything out
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Mechanic here. I can't even begin to list all the things wrong with this. That "grit" is the metal shavings caused by using kerosene.
Pro tip: Change your oil at the proper interval and use a quality filter. You will be fine.
I've been a mechanic for almost 30 years and I cringe when I see people doing a flush like this. All that grit is going through your oil pickup and pump and all of your galleries. I've seen peoples oil pump pickup come out so clogged you cant even see the screen
@@getchasome6230 lol
Lol
@@getchasome6230 What do you suggest then? Is this entire video completely incorrect and if so how do I fix engine oil pressure?
@@illuminatedzach4206 Do regular oil changes. Once its sludged up you should really tear the heads and oil pan off and actually get the shit out
I used to be a GM mechanic at a Chevrolet dealership and had a local mailman who owned a 1972 Impala with a 454 in it We did all of his oil changes and he always demanded 6 quarts of oil and 1 quart of ATF. At around 200,000 miles (with no engine repairs) I changed valve cover gaskets on it and was amazed. The engine was SPOTLESS inside! It looked like a brand new engine! Last I heard was that he got over 400k out of that car with no engine repairs before he sold it and bought a new car.
I add a little ATF to fuel for upper cylinders and 2 cycle mixes. Never a problem. 🤘🏼
Is this for real???
ATF is great in the diesel for big rigs.
Brian that was on a 1972 engine can that be done on these new modern engines
@@randysimmons2829 sure why not
I use a quart of Marvel mystery oil a few days before I do my oil change. I never get sludge buildup and it cleans lifters and piston rings quite affectively. I’ve tried this technique for 40 years and as an engine builder
Marvel Mystery oil. The mystery is - what is it good for?
That's a joke. It's great stuff. I've used it on aircraft engines for years. I also don't have sludge in my engines. Sea Foam is the same stuff.
@@robertthomas5906 I don't know if Sea Foam is the " SAME STUFF " but they both work slowly & are more gentle on the engine. I've personally had better luck ? with Marvel especially for sticky lifters.
I use Risoline Products like that Upper cylinder and High Mileage
I add a quart of MMO to my engine after a new oil change. I don't believe having an extra quart in the crankcase of a 6 quart engine hurts anything. I change at 3000 miles. Never had a problem.
My Grandpa used Marvel,my Dad used it and I do the same, Great way to keep things clean inside
I don't know what the negatives will end up being from this, but even really sludgy engines are usually cleaned up by using premium synthetic oil with relevant additive packages. For example, Mobil 1 High Mileage just indicates to do a few shorter.oil change intervals so the oil can slowly and safely dissolve deposits into solution for removal during the drain.
And it works quite well.
@@miguelquazar883 You mean cleaning with the Mobile one high mileage? I never used it but if it cleans up deposits...
The grit you have found is in the pan and does not enter the engine oil galleries. This is the sump reservoir that delivers oil to the filter. The filter prevents this debris from entering the engine. If you feel compelled to flush this debris, then pour the kerosene down the dipstick tube with the drain plug removed and capture the kerosene in a container. This will prevent the kerosene entering the engine, diluting the new engine oil, and causing a dry start after the oil change.
John Anderson *finally* a reasonable comment!
John Anderson Thats what i do.
John Anderson your comment made more since in just one sentence than this entire video, well played Sir.
John Anderson absolutely
Amen
I love sludge, it keeps the old car from leaking alot of oil.
Gotta say, you gave me a good laugh. You get a thumbs up from me.
It help things keep from rusting to lol
In older engines this is actually true. The sludge acts as a seal for all the bearings. That's why you should never clean out your oil like that or even with oil circuit cleaner in an older engine.
There are also CONs for this in newer engines with VVT and things like that. As long as you have no problem, don't try it. The cleaner might release grit and sludge, which can go into your VVT solenoids or similar things and block them.
That is true. I have heard that with transmission Flushes. Only change what's in the pan. Ya don't wanna empty out a transmission of all or alot of it's fluid because all the new fluid with all it's detergents will clean all them old ass seals up & all those old ass clutchs out and pretty soon it's leaking & a slipin'. If ya go puttin a solvent in yer oil then YEP it's gonna clean the hell outta some seals & bearings. Not to mention help all the sludge & gunk travel thru the rest of your engine. But wtf do I know. I'm just am old Hellbilly. Hahaa
I'm wondering if the grit is from metal shavings from previous times running the engine with kerosene instead of oil.
It is metal shavings from almost no lubrication with ketosine flush!
Kerosine
That's what I'm thinking.
Absolutely
Sea foam
Turning the engine over for .5 of a second will not cycle kerosene anywhere , and that's a fantastic way to burn out your starter 👍
Exactly what i was gonna say
@@danielpadgett2831 would that work?
@@williewestbrook7569 would what work? The kerosene thing im sure it would but bumping the starter that many times not good on the starter at all
@Mrzeskittles froster I see that you don’t know shit about cars... 😂
Just change your oil and filter on time or little earlier, and also use high quality oil and filter, use the right type of oil grade, type and amount, as well as proper oil filter, and it will run good for long time.
Hitting the key 50 times , now you're going to need a new starter and Battery
This dude was dropped in his head more than 50 times as a child so give him a break😂
This is a video by Wyle E. Coyote using the Acme method.
The Last Oil Change Jimmy Hoffa ever had!
How insulting.... Wyle E. Coyote was a genius!
A very good way to make your engine last half as long
And the guy sounded pretty smart and caring too..lol
😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
I know this is slightly off topic,but I've used Fram oil filters for years until I saw a video with the guy who cut open 4 or 5 popular filters to show how much filter material is inside. Fram failed miserably,but Napa & Wix rated the highest. Needless to say, I paid a few bucks more for the wix,but it's worth it!
Good oil prevents oil sludge buildup. I have 385,000 miles on my truck, use full synthetic oil, change it at 12,000 mile intervals, have it analyzed, and I never had a sludge problem. Oil analysis always comes back good with the advice that I could go even longer before replacing the oil.
The most oil analysis ive ever done went to the extent of cutting the filter open and running a magnet through the drained oil... why would you send the oil off to a lab for an engine with 385,000 godamn miles on it in the first place tho? Yea a motor needs good oil to keep a truckin and will prevent it from killing itself but there are other things that can kill a motor that has had oil changes every time needed..
@@Z-Ack because I bought it new and have a record of the oil conditions throughout the engines life. The analysis includes the bearing metals so you can see which bearings are wearing the most by the amounts detected. For $20 it's worth it to me. Satisfies my curiosity.
@@segarzawho do you use for analysis?
@jerrygraves6531 can't remember off hand but I'll get back to you on it. I'm busy doing farm chores right now. BTW, the engine now has 450,000 miles on it.
@@jerrygraves6531oil analyzers Inc. Is who I used.
Back in the 60's the 82nd Airborne would add a half pint of auto transmission fluid to the crankcase for the last 100 miles or so.
The motors were spotless when torn down finally.
AT fluid is highly detergent but a superb lubricant.
No dry start.
Now they have you take samples of all fluids to a lab for analysis and then they tell you if it needs to be changed or any other enomolies. Yes I totally agree about the trans fluid. Its highly detergenated and completely safe. Its also a great way to break in a new motor. ( I learned alot from my father who was one of the best mechanics ever. Also trained & worked 63S USA.) For the skeptics about women mechanics. 😀
Your. Stupid
We do it to all our fleet of semis during the last 100 miles or so. It’s cheaper and way more effective than most products and safer. Auto tranny fluid is the best. We also use a mix of tranny fluid and paint thinner as a rust penetrate for bolts and screws.
@@jessegonzalez2058 If you're going to call someone stupid. At least use the proper "you're", dipshit.
We would do that also to pass emission testing.
As a journeyman HD mechanic I'm horrified. If you want to destroy your engine and starter this is the quickest way to do it. There are pickup screens before the oil pump and a filter in the circuit. Rotating your engine with kerosene as a lubricant will destroy your mains and valvetrain. This completely disregards oil wedge theory and points to sludge as the cause of most engine failures, not true. Don't do this, bad idea. Also, engine oil gets dark because it has detergents in it, most large diesels will have jet black oil after 30mins of running. Color of oil is less important than viscosity and acid content(or total base number). The creator of this video is not posting proven maintenance techniques.
Your 1000 percent correct. I'm horrified as well.
This is truly unconventional.....
May be a fast way to remove such slug,but certainly a fast destructive technique.
Which is the best way of removing sludge except using detergent like kerosene and engine flush
Can i use liqui moly engine flush on corolla 2009 with 300000km
Well he is certainly giving you guys a lot service tickets!
Hey guys im gonna show you how to prematurely deteriorate your crank seals. So what you need is kerosene. Kerosene is pretty caustic which is ideal for doing the opposite of conditioning. And those pieces of black in the flush may just be one of those, before mentioned, crank seals just breaking down to what would be the equivalent of nibbled cheese. And voila! There you have it folks Kerosene Is rich In fatty properties which remain after the evaporation of the grease. Every time an area or piece of rubber is exposed to a kerosene mixture the rubber Is deprived of more of its strength. Eureka! We've just "F'd up" our crank seals. 👏👏👏👏
All very true!
So kerosene is pretty caustic but then you say it's rich in fatty properties? Go take a crank seal and put it in a bucket of kerosene and look at it a year later and you will see no deterioration.
@@William1866 Kerosene is a similar ph to petrol.
Petrol is neither an acid nor is it a base. pH applies to water solutions and Petrol does not dissolve in water, therefore, petrol cannot be classified as either.
Your exactly right.
Your big end shells are made of a very soft material and have a grove cut in them ! The grove fills with oil so that your crankshaft etc are actually not touching any other metal surface ! ie there is a fine film of oil in-between the two, You add kerosene to that its just metal to metal and you will have scored all those nice soft bearing shells ! Just change oil regularly and let the filter do its work
And what if he just got the car, and it’s oil is disgusting (like this) and you suspect that sludge may be in the oil galleries and the cam phasers and actuators ? Then as long as the engine doesn’t start, there’s really no pressure on the crank bearing and only valve spring pressure (indirectly) on the cam bearings. The vast majority, even of quality mechanics are simply NOT going to pull apart the entire engine to try and save a cheap car, but this might do it.
There are lots and lots of cars that already weren’t taken care of, too late to lecture about timely oil changes for those cars.
My first car was a junkyard w126 300se, it hadn't run for years, after ceaning the tank, flushing the gas lines and cleaning the injectors and kjet filter, I decided to tackle the oil. I I drained the oil, removed the sump, cleaned out the sludge and bought the cheapest 5w30 oil, and GUD oil filter I could get my hands on. She started right up, made a bit of tapid noise but idled smoothly. At the time I didn't have a driver's licence, so I asked my dad to drive it to and from work every day for about two weeks. After the two weeks I drained the oil, again it wasn't pleasant, I spent a seventeen year olds equivalent of an arm and a leg on a Bosch oil filter and Liqui Molly's semi synthetic oil for older engines (20w50). Ran like a charm! No tapid noise, instant oil pressure. This is the best way to "flush" your engine in my opinion...
he should swap the pistons out every time they get dirty
😂 this video was a pop up in the feed but I came for the hilarious Replies and Your Sarcasm is on Point 🤣
Lmao funny as heelllll
No stupid, he should change the engine every 3,000 miles. Damn what’s wrong with you? 😜
Why not swap the entire engine ? Then change the oil on a daily basis. Think of all the gratitude you will receive from the oil companies?
But a new car, fill the old one with grit.
As an auto mechanic I have heard of old school guys using this technique. It’s better to use a quart of transmission fluid with clean oil, granted it can be cheap oil because it’s getting immediately flushed, followed by what you generally run the vehicle on. This is my preferred method. Sure costs alittle more but only needs to be done every 10-15k miles on today’s cars.
Back in the 80's I had a vega with
140psi , it blew the filter gasket
Refilled it with diesel fuel, ran it for
20 minutes, drained it refilled with oil
Cleaned it right up
@@ronpilchowski9898 my father said something about using Kerosene, I guess diesel would be very similar.
@@Ky_Mycology yep, not sure were
To get kerosene but diesel fuels available at the gas station
Works like a solvent
@@Ky_Mycology diesel has more lubricity than kero
On older cars that I have owned; I drain the old oil, replace oil plug, fill up with ATF and run on idle for 20 minutes. Drain, add new oil and new filter.
You can also add half a quart of ATF with new oil change and drive for 100- 300 miles to build up oil pressure. ATF does an excellent job @ removing sludge safely as its petroleum oil and it doesn't remove too much sludge or deposits. Gotta be careful not to clog your oil screen.
I agree with most of what you said. But IMO i would not want to run an engine with ATF in the oil, for any longer than 15 to 30 seconds, if even that long. Then I'd drain the oil, change the filter, and refill with some cheap oil to do a "rinse" and run the engine for 15 - 20 minutes. And drain and refill for good, after that.
I just have a problem with running the engine with ATF or other solvents in the oil, it seems very counter-productive.
no way that oil was only 3000 miles on it, looks more like about 10,000.
Buck Beach if it was it must have been a hard 3,000 miles
Well the oil was from an Audi which are known for oil consumption and piston ring failure, what do you expect.
Buck Beach I thought same... i had like a 10 thousand miles... Dark brown not black like this one.
I'd say higher than that since the guy said he uses "synthetic oil" I use royal purple oil and filter, and only change my oil around 12,000 miles and it's NEVER looked that bad.... and the shit starts out purple to begin with
I service them all audis, and be a are by far the darker of the oil spectrum aside from a WAY older vehicle that has known blow by.
Hes gonna start that car and that engine is gonna say, take the BUS.
I would like to add, i have tried this method number of times, instead of cranking the engine 50 times, i used to do it 2-3 times only without letting the engine start. In end, i used to blow pressurized air from inlet and have the remaining Kerosene come out from drain with pressure as that would make sure that non is left inside. This method works and you can feel the difference on your engine running smooth. Many people would disagree with the method, its their own choice but this works well.
Great video, but I wanted to ruin my engine quicker so I used water instead.
Is that your toothbrush or your wife’s
HAHAHAHAHAHA...GOOD POINT...THIS GUY IS PRETTY JERKY...
@@mikemraz8569 lol
Me too, I used treacle and sand though, much quicker
@@TheKevgray1 i use iron filings and pour granite dust in with petrol. Run engine half hour and result is perfect For a good few miliseconds
Whatever is in the sump will stay in the sump, the oil pump will pick up oil and send it thru the filter which will catch the smaller bits. The bigger bits will stay on Tue bottom of the sump. You may save some wear on the oil pump but like many comments here... Just change your oil regularly and use a good filter and you're good.
Of course, but what if you just got the car. This is for when that wasn’t done.
Madness , a good quality engine flush has a lubricant added , also it cleans out the scraper rings equalizing compression and cleans oil galleries and any sludge through the entire motor .
Back in the day people used to put transmission oil in the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Keeps everything lubricated and cleans.
TheChemist187 very true trans oil its really aggresive too and well
TheChemist187 I been doing that for year. A qort (nope I can't spell) of ATF about 100 miles before an oil change. I've ran a 3.9 Dakota with 4 qorts of GTX 10W-30 and 1 qort of ATF for four years. Only way I wasn't adding a qort at every red light lol! I've never had one issue. And Lord did I drive that Dakota lol.
Yup if I know my oil is starting to get bad. I put 1 quart of transmition oil to 4 quarts of oil. Run it for 3,000 miles. Always a succes on cleaning up engine.
TheChemist187
I use 50/50 mixture of transmission and engine oil...
And using petrol will dry out the oil seals
Atf is a 5w20 base oil with a ton of additives and detergent. Has a ton more film strength than kerosene.
Use Marvel Mystery Oil regularly. At oil change intervals and add to gas now and then at fill up. You'll notice the difference!
👍🏻😉
Bro. I tried Marvel Mystery Oil two weeks ago in just the fuel line and after a week the power in my Jeep with 157k was noticeably improved. A lil extra kick and my mpg improved too. Gonna add Marvel on my next oil change as well to see.
@@XTRABIG well i never read books of marvel magic.,
Same results with Seafoam. I got a case for less than $2/bottle so I will be using that for the foreseeable future.
Home Depot had a cray price on the case so I grabbed it and ran. I felt guilty. Not guilty enough to not go back 2 days later hoping there was more on the shelf at that price. No dice someone figured it out and changed the price to $8+ bottle.
My GMC had 160K on it when it was sold. Replaced a leaking valve cover gasket just before sale. The inside of the valve cover and the inside of the head was spotless. Oil and filter change every 6K
U forgot to mention what year and what engine your gmc was! Very important..
@@MrEuroWolfie 2006 5.3 high output engine. Amsoil 5W20 Wix long spin on filter.
I’ve been a mechanic for 45 years, and I just want to say, this guy is an idiot! Never do this to your car. Your ex-wife’s car? Sure. But never your own....
Facts...
I'm pretty sure this is just a comedy skit...
I was thinking on the same line you are, probably would plug your engine.Someone wrote that your oil fries at 210°F.The newer cars oil viscosity keeps getting thinner, I used to run 20w-50 in the 400m Ford engines, when I changed the engine would also put a TRW high volume oil pump. I been working on some 80's model 351Windsor HO, getting ready to take one out a1985 E-250 that has 35,000 miles and don't want to turn over after a small fire by the mechanical fuel pump.Also have 1982 1 ton duelly with 1983 351W, I been looking for another small block to put in while I rebuild the 351W HO.Carbuerated, I found a 300-6 cylinder, not sure about it yet.Still looking.
Yup he sounds to gritty
Plus, this fucker in the video sounds like a clearance radio/voice over guy. Sounds like a robot.
I did that engine flush with a car I had bought. Never again. Looked great at first with all the crap that came out but about 3 months later all the other crud that started breaking lose but did not come out at first stoped up the pickup tube. Don't short cut, drop the oil pan and valve cover and remove that way.
Years ago a friend did something similar except he changed the oil minus one quart and added 1 quart of Kero. He would then run it for about 20 minutes and replace the oil with fresh oil. Never had any issues with his engine and makes sense since you never run the engine with no oil and Kero is distributed throughout under pressure.
But that seems more sane.Dilluting the oil just makes more sense. You are atleast providing protection. But pure kerosine seems like a horrible idea to me.
😂that's the instructions on the bottle🤦♂️
Another old school way I had been told about is, about 500 miles before an oil change, put in a qt. of trans fluid. Did it a couple of times on much older cars, was no resulting problem from doing that. When I say older, I mean 70's and 80's cars.
Thank you, thank you Forrest Gump. Mama would be so proud.
Hahahahahaha exactly Mr. Gump
Dave here from southern Australia….If you are weird about your oil being contaminated just change your oil filter twice during your cycle…Full synthetic always 5w30 12.000 Kay’s never a drama 🎭 ROYAL PURPLE
Just run good oil. Amsoil, penzoil platinum, mobile one. A good synthetic and proper change intervals will keep it clean.
Btw - you should ALWAYS inspect the inside of a new oil filter before installing it, because they often have metal burrs/flakes inside where the threads are machined. These flakes are on the FILTERED side, meaning they can exit the filter and go straight to the engine internals. It'd be pretty ironic if the source of the "grit" was the oil filters themselves...
Years ago that was common, much better noe
Sorry but that's not entirely true it's machine before they put it together if the flakes went down inside their that is the intake side of the oil it can't get through the filter do your homework
Yea exactly..slacking Mexican and Chinese workers and QC
I worked at the oil filter company making oil filters when their employees went on strike. There are not metal contamination inside bran new USA oil filters. They are made with pistons and lubricants sprayed on them threw the entire process so no metal fragments are inside oil filters!
I have a GDI engine....mother of all sludge building engines. I change my oil every 1500 miles to keep on top of the build up. Engine runs alot smoother keeping the oil clean.
New drinking game.
Everytime time he says GRIT do a shot of kerosene.
Lmao
I am now in the e.r because of this game.
@@nolo4133 lol watch the movie light house it’s bw they end up drinking kerosene in the end bc they ran outta Liqour I think it’s called lighthouse it has the dude who played the green goblin and the vampire dude loll from twilight
Lmao
@stangmaster 2 😂
Your ability to not know what you are talking about is impressive. Keep up the not great work.
😁😂
Not sure if it was sarcasm but if Yes. I agree😂
🤣🤣
@@theafrodzac 😆😅😂🤣
I've actually seen people do this, I know of a farmer that buys old Massey tractors like from 50s if engine is free first thing he'd do is add 50/50 oil to diesel the diffence is insane its like it makes the oil wetter and you wanna talk about bad looking oil he wouldn't run the engine just turn it over put a blow torch to pan from a distance. I'd never do it in my own Audi, my method is if there's thick gunky oil or extremely black I'd change the oil/filter once a month for 3 months and continue on every 4000, or 9 months.
This works great by the way. Had a 350,000 mile 5.3L chevy look almost Brand new on the inside said the mechanic that put in all new gaskets and oil pump along with a transmission at the time. Did the cleaning at the 250,000 mile point.
5.3L chevy LS "vortec" engine will often go to 350,000 miles if maintained well. A good synthetic or high mileage oil has detergents and anti-foaming agents in then which will clean the carbonized oil "sludge" out of the engine over time. This idiot is putting and pumping kerosene into an engine that also supplies oil to the bearing in his turbo. This guy is an idiot and should not be listened to. If you want to mix something into your oil to help with sludge use a half quart of ATF (automatic transmission fluid). You don't need any special kind since I highly doubt you had an L33 aluminum block 5.3L. You're best off just using a quality oil filter and royal purple oil and change them regularly. I dont know what you drive now but if you want to keep it running good then dont try to lubricate the friction surfaces with a strong solvent like kerosene. Just an FYI. Gotta love those LS engine though.
there's something therapeutic and satisfying about flushing a motor and putting clean oil back in it
Your methods may be effective and are well intended. I agree that removing contaminants from an engine is beneficial. However, those pieces (and grit) you show typically don't circulate through the engine and remain in the pan. If they are lifted by the oil pump, then the oil filter will trap them before going through the motor. (Viewers please lookup the filtering efficiency at stated particle size of the oil filter you currently use.) Many will believe that the motor medic flush you showed to be 'basically' kerosene, when in fact its mostly mineral oil with a lesser percentage of kerosene (look up the SDS on the product) because kerosene has little to no lubricity. The fear that viewers may intentionally use straight kerosene as they would the motor flush you showed may be misinterpreted and is real. The average backyard mechanic may not wish to pull a fuse to perform this, and potentially may cause damage by idling the engine until the oil is hot. Keep in mind, in your process there is kerosene left in oil passages through out the motor and this of course will stay with the new oil. This may not be desirable.
thanks for the insight
If you get kerosene hot enough (well within the normal operating temperature on some components) it can become quite volatile with deadly and catastrophic results. Kerosene has a Flashpoint between 100 and 150F and everything under the hood of your car is usually over 100F. Now it doesn't necessarily combust at 150F, but it's not real hard to get it to combust at that temperature. When I feel compelled to flush an automotive crankcase, I drain the oil, refill with ATF, let it idle 5 to 10 minutes, drain the ATF, replace the oil filter and refill with the correct viscosity motor oil. Some might call me crazy, but at least I'm not putting light volatiles in a pressurized crankcase and then heating it up. Lol
Some people fall 4 the snake oil. But chit oil only I never put anything oil it's it some times an ounce of blinkah fluid dote
@@oldsguy354 This.
I've found after the 2k mark on the odo the trade in method works the best for those peskey carbon buildup and sludge issues.
ATF fluid also works very well. You can substitute one quart of oil with it and drive normally on it untill your next oil change. My auto instructor did it all the time.
Is there a specific ATF to use on a car or just any ATF will do?
I don't like the idea of pouring kerrosine into the engine , why don't you just change the oil , run it for fifty miles and change it again , I'd consider this to be much safer for my engine .
Jaber Jaber what works is adding a quart of diesel to the oil and running the engine
Jaber Jaber eeemmm thats not how any of this work, to get the grit out of the engine u have to remove oil pan, lucky my audi has a very simple oil pan and does not need a front axel to be removed like most cars do.
Jaber Jaber kerosene does not have lubricating properties and can easily cause bearings to spin an cause wear to engine parts
Jaber Jaber , use marvel mystery oil. put one qt when your oil level goes down one. Drive with mmo for a couple of days then change oil and filter. Does a good job plus it removes varnish from the rings. Your engine will run smoother and regain its power.
Jaber Jaber : Thanx for a good idea!
I just came for the comments. I was not disappointed lol. Your wife's hands look great turning the key. Can you qualify how many people is a lot. I have been around cars my whole life and have never seen anybody remove a pan to remove sludge.
Your fingernail has more "GRIT" in it than the dam engine! 😂🤣😂
Man I'm busted up right now. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
😅😅 dam that right there
Glad I wasn't the only one that noticed that lol
That finger nail is like a gasket scraper..... or used for digging somewhere ...lol
He could snatch Salmon swimming upstream with that sob
Your sludge issue is from using generic low grade oil & a base line filter.
Seadweller451D
Also poor crank case ventilation.
@@Dr.Westside yup and that oil cap is a recall. The new audi one is vented and has an orange logo
My uncle who was in business for years told me that the best way to change your oil by it's color because if it gets dark it already contained have a blessed day today 🙏
Is this a joke?
Start your starter 50x in such short timing and you'll need to replace that starter as well.
@Leo Coffy 🤣🤣🤣
thats what I was thinking ... better to just run it for a minute or two
@Leo Coffy 😂😂🤣
ehehehee
I like the toothbrush ideal, I've seen many oil screens and they are mostly all clogged up. If you are able to reach it with a toothbrush then that's a great idea! Also use a magnetic drain plug to pick up fine pieces of metal.
Good idea!
Magnetic drain plug for modern engines doesn't do much since blocks are made from mostly aluminum these days meaning nothing is magnetic to begin with. When iron blocks were common, yes, using a magnetic drain plug would help.
@Lwnmwrboy5 it's not the blocks that the magnetic drain plugs are used for. It's to collect bearing material which is in every block not matter what it is cast from. And all bearings wear over time not matter how well you take care of the engine.
All that grit in your oil would be a fundamental failure of your oil filter. Likely picked it up from the catch pan or something falling in the catch pan from under the car. Also, not sure those short cranks fully circulate the kerosene which is why a good flush like liqui moly pro flush is a better choice.
I have been doing this for at least 30 years works every time good knowledge to know
Social media has made people think that an internal combustion engine should be sparkling clean. 😭
True
Well said
I use hand sanitizer to disinfect the inside of the engine
@@iliap1217 so do I I use pure alcohol to get rid of those pesky weeds near my exhaust AND keep the engine disinfected it's a win win in my opinion :)
@@DatBoiOrly I’d also take a nice leak in the gas tank. It’s sterile and adds a nice octane boost
@@jtyree0226 ahh a fellow connoisseur! I do the same when i run out of alcohol to put into my tank ;)
Dude, cut that nail on your thumb.
That's his booger cleaner 😂
Probobly a guitarplayer.
It's for cocaine.
HA HA HA HA HA HA
@@soppingwetburgers6493 Just about to say that haha!
Dont listen to the haters my dude. You've found a way to keep your ride running and that's all that matters.
Ah, but so many haters ! Why is that ? Could it be that he is so wrong ?
Hehe, that grit brother isn't sludge, it's engine ring fragments! Sludge is thick gooey carbon buildup, not grit.
he never said the grit was sludge.
@@vaquero3578 thats the point, you dont put this in to remove "grit" you put it in to remove sludge.
Worst, kerosine can damage all oil seal at engine.
mohd fadli it will not hurt anything in 5 minutes except clean oil residue
If the vehicle has bad valve guides, they "will" be ruined.
Terus cara yang bener pakai apa? minyak tanah itu sama seperti engine flush pak, basicnya juga dari minyak tanah.
Sad to see a car treated like this. I bought a used 1979 Celica Gt in 1987 to drive back and forth to work. The original owner had done 3 or 4 oil changes in 8 years. Surprisingly the car ran pretty good. The 20R engine was a beast. A trusted old mechanic told me what to do to clear some of the sludge. I drained the oil, changed the oil filter, added 2 quarts cheap oil and 3 quarts of transmission fluid. I drove it around for a couple of hours, not revving the engine. Drained the oil and was amazed at the chunks of sludge that came out. I did this once more in a month. I ran cheap oil in the car for the next 3 years. I was told that ATF had high levels of detergents. In 1990 I traded it in for a new Isuzu pickup.
Put magnets on the oil filter!! Works good
I think the filter will catch the metal just fine.
@@guidedbygreen1480 Unless the filter goes in to bypass which actually happens more often than most people realise
doesn't the remaining karosean in the engine contaminate the new oil?
Flying Karapet, not as bad as this guy contaminating people’s brains by putting this nonsense on the internet.
This is a comedy video..has to be
Who cares? Just change it again
@@firechicken5 Brains? Why not a brain transplant as a prophylactic measure to curtail stupidity?
@Moto Guzzi Performing a Full Volume Oil Change will get rid of that kerosene. 10-20% of the residual oil and kerosene will remain. Performing a second oil change after driving on the highway for 20 minutes and draining/change the filter will affectively remove 96-99% of the oil and contaminents. Now the fully formulated oil with all its detergents, dispersants, anti-wear additives will be able to protect your engine much better. No need for mystery oils. Finally, it is 100% safe and affective. Flushes and mystery oils are gimmicks, at worst harmful to your engine.
used motor medic on my 2005 chevy avalanche. 5.3 v8 was ticking and low oil pressure. i ran it for 10 minutes. then i put 5 quarts oil 1 quart atf. no ticking, good oil pressure. it runs great for 237,000 miles.
Run a quart of transmission fluid a few miles before changing oil. Won't hurt seals
So lower the oil 1 quart then add a quart of transmission fluid? Then do oil change? Thanks!
@@MikeKollin yes
@@jasonchallis5169 Cool, Thanks!
i was doing this 30 years ago ..it worked every time
@@jasonchallis5169 What's a Few miles? Do you mean 3 miles or so? Or do you mean more like 20 or 30 miles? Thanks!
USED KEROSENE for 35 years on all my vehicles, Fords, Dodges, all kinds all types and never had problems w shavings. Never had any pinging, clicking, or damage, with long life to the motor. New Filters often have thread shavings on them, check your filters. Its also based on how often you do this and also what kind of oil you use, and running the kerosene thru until it cleans the oil pan. All oils allow for some metal wear, cheap oil will shave your motor more, good synthetic not as much.
On several vehicles that have had issues with lifter noise, I cured it with ATF flush, cleans the "gunk" out of the tiny lifter lube holes. I drain a qt of oil out before I do an oil change, add in 1 qt ATF, drive it for a while like that, then do a normal oil change. The results are immediate. To prevent the lifter noise from returning, synthetic oil plus 1 qt Marvel Mystery Oil. Both vehicles have +200K miles and neither leak a drop of oil.
I've known people put in a quart of transmission fluid just before changing oil but I've never heard of using kerosene.
Dafuq,why transmission oil?
Could just be chunks of the cheap fram oil filter you’re using! Kerosene=seal failure
There is why I don't have that problem. I never ever buy Fram filters. Not even the supposedly good Fram filters. I only use Mann filters or Purolator. My car takes a cartridge type filter so there is no hiding bad quality inside a metal can, you can see it for yourself before you put it in there. Then when you change the oil you can see how very well it held up.
@@charleshines6155 you are a man of my own heart, I only will use Mann or in a pinch Purolator in my Bmw or Porsche. Same with my wife's Mini. Never had a filter come apart or not trap everything. Also german cars use cartridge type filters for a reason, so you or your mechanic can check for anything severe happening in your engine like abnormal wear resulting in metal fragments, even seal fragments. In an enclosed spin on filter you would need to cut the filter in two.
@@brandonbentley8532 I bought a Purolator for my Passat and it is the one without the metal can. It looks identical to the Mann filter and is even made in Germany, Oddly the Mann filter for that car is now made in Mexico but I used to see them from Germany. Mann Hummel bought Purolator. The Purolator Boss filter is a white media and close in price to the Mann filter sometimes. Other than the color of the media the two filters are identical. My car is a 2013 Passat 2.5.
we do it with Gasoil in France, and it's called 'diesel flush'. Gasoil is greasier than kerosine. Crank your engine, and let it get to working temp on idle. Flush it twice with mineral oil, to be sure the diesel is fully removed. And then put your final synthetic oil with filter change.
It was a great technique for destroying the bottom end of my buddy's 350 Vortac engine. lol
Oil filters are for this very purpose. Oil that darkens in colour (UK spelling) is doing its job keeping contaminants in suspension. I agree that some of the 20,000 - 30,000 mile oil change intervals are probably slightly ambitious but there's no need to flush in the way shown here.
Definitely enjoyed watching your video. This is the best way to get rid of the dirty sludge inside your engine
Removed the pan on my engine with over 250,000 miles. It was clean. I took the valve cover also it was clean.
I used good oil and changed it regularly.
Use a high grade oil filter. I wonder if it could be flammable. Being that it is so thin could it pass thru the rings
and clog the O2 sensors. I will stick with my way.
I would never use engine oil cleaner either. Waste of money.
Rebuilt a few motors . Only thing that cleans the oil pump sump is if you take it out.
james37603 not true.
*Fills engine with kerosene*
*Also puts a fram filter on it.*
“I know car tricks you don’t”
🤦♂️
"Look at this sludge" holding up fragments of big end bearing lmao. dear god no one ever do this.
@@AskAboutMyZombiePlan I think they were ring fragments but yeah, more steel in the case then in the engine. That engine has got to be toast by now.
I'm no mechanic but I cringed at the kerosene. But he is worried about his engine oil being dirty and goes through the whole process and then before replacing the oil he puts a fram filter on it. WHAT?! Fram? Its barely even a filter. No wonder why you have sludge in your car because you're basically not using a filter at all. For those that use Fram, crack one open and see what's inside. Geez.
Fram is the crappiest filter on the market
Anything but that "Fram" filter, I believe by far, that's the worse oil filter on the market. I certainly won't use it, it's low quality at It's best.
I use an oil bypass filter system , change oil frequently. Works great for me . The toilet paper filter really does a great job.
Thanks I want to clean old transmission oil I have been storing up about 4 gallons cleaning out my transmissions ,,,,I will try that after coffee fillers first if you use many of them I guess will be best seeing it's a clean filter and don't break down ,,,,on oil I drop the pan these no gaskets there no waiting time I got 285 thousand on a 4 ,,,and it don't like to be run cold ,,,got a block waiting so I'm going to clean the pan and screen on pump it a gear that old and the cam is going so I'm sticking with a little love on the old one
If you were so worried about harming your engine you would never use a Fram filter I can tell you that much
269000 miles on my dodge caravan using fram filters, still going.
You negated your entire comment by owning a dodge caravan. Why bother use good parts on a shit car.
@@usmcdrifter8759 Actually they are not that bad cars( i mean vans), they could have been much better, but they are build better then you think.
Fram filters the best ever!
@@usmcdrifter8759 😁
After 3000m my oil looks so clean and new. I put it back in the container and resell it. No complaints so far.
I do a rinse flush with diesel fuel manual transmission and differential. Did the engine oil one time so you can drain oil put diesel fuel in their run for about a minute shut off let soak start up later run for another minute doesn't hurt anything. I did this with the differential switched over to a GL 5 synthetic picked up 2 miles a gallon on the top end.
Nice effort on the vid but unless the engine has been severely abused you just don't need to do this and it is actually dangerous to do on a regular basis. Oil is made to lubricate, scavenge, clean and cool the engine while its running, just change your oil regularly and it will do this job fine. Doing what your doing to your battery and starter is going to stuff them up massively and your going to have stopped the oil being where it needs to be by flushing it with kero, so when you go to start it again there will be metal on metal wear and tear till the oil pump primes which is probably where those metal fragments are coming from. If you want to clean a severely sludged engine then sure this is a way to do it once but this will destroy your engine over time if done regularly.
All well and good BUT
What does the kero do to the rubber gaskets and seals........
We put kerosene in our industrial gear boxes during oil changes to remove contamination but we do not rotate the gear box, we make sure to completely drain all kerosene and top off with new gear oil. Never had any major issues but I could see where damaging seals from prolonged "soaking" in kerosene could be an issue.
What a beautiful way of spinning the bearing in a engine.
go through all that to clean your engine and then put a fram oil filter on it . maybe try a good filter you may not have to do all that lol
@Big Mike no cheap fram filters has paper end caps. Royal purple has metal end caps
Unless you use a proper racing oil filter. All the conventional filters are as good as the other
@@TheFunkymohawk nope... Wix, aka Napa gold filters, are far superior to FRAM. I used to use FRAM and changed every 3k and my oil always looked as dark as the oil in this video. Just went almost 10 with a wix because every time I checked the oil it looked clean! I've always used synthetic oil. I swore off FRAM after one nearly destroyed my phasers...
In the early 80s the old-timers would drain the oil, leave the old filter on and pour in a 50/50 mix of diesel and kerosene, then run the engine for 20 minutes
These guys used their pickups every day to check their wells here , and these pickups would run 8 to 10 hours a day continuously 7 days a week. When we would tear em down they were surprisingly clean, especially the ones that ran on propane,. 90 percent of the time the reason for the rebuild was wore out oil pumps and plastic timing chain gears.
Nice, the best part to see fram filter in the end. 😂🤣
Also, do not use the kerosene/motor flush trick on an old engine. the sludge inside is sealing off holes that are in your gaskets and other greasy spots, only do this as a last resort! and another note, after flushing your engine, pull the oil pan to clean off potential sludge/junk that might get sucked up in the oil pick-up tube.
false
On th same exact audi 1.8t, i had a sludge issue. My vvt tensioner was knocking like crazy. I poured a gallon of diesel fuel similar to the video. Over 3 day i left the car parked with the fuel pump fuse pulled.i would crank for 10 sec a few times a day and when i finally refilled with oil all the issues were gone. So this works of youre careful.
That grit is usually dirt and not something inside your engine. Using transmission fluid is a better way of removing sludge due to it's high detergency but won't thin out your oil nearly as much as kerosene. If you keep up with oil changes there won't be any sludge and if you need to flush out your engine, it means it wasn't well maintained so flushing it out will only make it worse. And if the car you're looking to buy NEEDS an engine flush, it wasn't maintenanced properly so why buy it?
Someone else mentioned using transmission fluid in the crankcase as well to remove sludge before an oil change. Seems to be an effective technique.
watch project farm atf is not a good substitute for flushing
significant wear
Don't do it. Kerosene is very dry and will strip any remaining lubricant from the working surfaces and it wil damage and dry the seals, causing them to leak.
Put about 1/2 pint of diesel in the hot engine before draining the old oil out, let it idle for about 10 mins. (don't drive it) then drain the oil.
I have worked on Audis, and they are very prone to sludging; make sure you use a fully synthetic oil and change regularly, more often if they are doing short trips or in adverse weather conditions.
I use diesel on my Chevrolet blazer 2001, I put about 1/2 pint of diesel on the engine before remove the old oil and it works just fine......
@Mark Stuckey do you mean put 1/2 pint of kerosene in the engine, before change the old oil?
@@leonardussamderubun986 No, no, no. not kerosene. Diesel.
Put small amt of diesel in a premium oil tank before oil change? That takes care of sludge?
I’m no engineer or mechanic (am a simple retired Gynecologist) but felt that by just trying to turn the engine like that would not make the kerosene to circulate in the engine. Besides Kerosene is extremely corrosive and damages rubber parts. I personally think filling the engine up with surgical spirit and running the engine a few minutes is better, then remove the sump clean it, clean the internal oil filter, and allow the spirit to dry over night, remove the spark plugs drop some oil down the cylinder and fill with fresh magnetic synthetic oil and start the engine.
Good way to blow the starter motor
Jonathan Crumley He should've removed the plugs.
seen a guy lockup his motor doing that "sounds good method".
Not really, I rebuilt starters for a while and in my experience it was the long cranking that over heated the starter due to heat cause the persons car would not start, or just old age
Randizle Peregoy i agree. Had put in a new started on a old 4cyl wagon and one day flooded steets got water got on the ignition system since i was missing splash shields and cause the engine to die out and i tried to start the engine over and over again since i was in a bad spot trying to get it started. Held the starter on for about 10 sec each attempt. Eventually draining the battery. Ever since then, the starter acts funny from time to time by not activating when the key is turned.
Gabriel Pla Clean the connections from the battery and from the ignition switch.
One question - isn't the oil filter supposed to filter out all this grit to stop it from circulating around the engine when it filters out the engine oil?
Depending on how the oil system works
1 quart or pint of MMO for 50 miles before oil change works well or the standard motor flush, 1/2 can per directions works well.
You lost me at “fill the car up with kerosene “ 😭
Ain't bad done it with diesel & transmission fluid before
this has been done since the 50's, it does work but you have to not be silly. why way back in the 50's+? cuz motor oil used to not have alot of detergents in them.
@Tee Mack 110% correct
after filling up....leave the cap open and throw a lighted match in ! Tadah! no mor engine grit to worry about!
@Tee Mack just commented the same thing lmao glad theres some people here doing the work by spreading the word
You are insane dude !!
Interesting video , did a similar process with straight 93 octane, only because my ecm went bad and was just flooding the engine with fuel lol , pulled the drain plug it definitely flushed everything out
The video title should be changed to "Top secret that your car mechanic doesn't want you to know." :D
I had a suspicion, the Fram filter confirmed it!