@DIYWilly yea what's the cheapest welder to buy are those big gun lookin ones any good I know there's a mini welder that looks cool just don't wanna waste my money it would take some use to see if it's good and by then I wouldn't be able to return it or I could rent one from home depot
@@SpACeCruizeR2o3 Sorry man today is my first day back to work. I didn’t have time to answer. I like Lincoln or Hobart welders but they can get pricey. I’ve been curious about Harbor freight’s Titanium brand welders. They have good reviews but I haven’t tried one. They have one right now for $179.99. It’s a gasless/core wire 115v MIG welder and would be perfect for what you want to do. Check it out. There also some china ones on Amazon again I’ve never tried them. Just try not to go too cheap because you won’t be happy and welding a frame takes a decent welder.
You actually want the notch in the key facing the rear of the motor that will allow you to turn the flywheel clockwise 2°. Also holding the flywheel while torquing its nut can spin the crank shaft taking out that additional 2° of timing you wanted , hold it from the left side.
Hello Boosted, Yes the notch was installed facing the rear (head) side of the engine with the key facing forward to advance the timing. Reversing it would retard the timing. The idea is to rotate the flywheel clockwise to increase the timing. Thanks for watching!!!
Thats the first time iv'e heard of a flywheel being lapped in, learn something new every day. Wow that thing looks like a factory team polished race motor!👍💪
Hey Willy, I’d like to know if the vent tubes come in a kit from PK or if you had to buy it all in separate pieces. Also do you have to drill and retap the top ARC billet side cover to get the new AN fittings from PK? I was going to do /8” NPT to 1/2” barbed fittings and 1/2” clear tubbing but I really like the look of the AN lines and those two how’s brackets to hold them straight 👏🏼. So damn Sexy! Paul makes some great stuff, I just hate having to pay his shipping charges too. Hell 2 barbed fitting $9 each so $18 the another $22 to ship them is like no thanks.
Hello ol-man-Duffy, All the parts used were purchased separately from Amazon. I will update the links to show parts used. The hole in the ARC side cover are very close but I did run a tap through all the holes including the valve cover to get the fittings to work the way I wanted them. I should have talked more about the install. I do wish I would have went with a larger diameter but these are 4an size. Thanks for watching!!!
Ok thanks Willy I’ll look there and keep an eye on your parts list in case you change them. I agree -4 would be 4/16 or 1/4” inside diameter. I def. Want to go 3/8” or 1/2” but that would require some machine work on that cover. Looks very clean though and hope to see more of this motor running and winding out moving forward. She needs to see 6-7k in the rpm range before she starts burning that fuel and using that timing you put into her. I’m thinking a stall clutch or 5k stall TQ converter would make this engine a rocket. My build is VERY similar.
Hello aaron, I ordered from OMBwarehouse. They run out of stock fast so you’ll have to keep checking. Actual I didn’t see on their site anymore. Thanks for watching.
@DIYWilly I installed, broke a valve spring, added a big valve head ported and milled. Test road today and I can agree they are. I am using the autolite spark plug with it. I was cruising at 64 m.p.h today on the river bed near my house today.
Hello, I’m currently in the process of building a Honda GX200 clone performance engine (212cc for the time being) from scratch for the fun of it and learning purposes, and from the research I’ve done, hopefully these few questions can be answered, and my apologies if they’ve been answered. What’s the stock length of the Connecting Rod for the clones; when is it appropriate to use dual valve springs and forged pistons such as those expensive ones from Wiseco; and if using a 0.640” comp. height piston, 3.308” billet rod, and a 0.010” head gasket combo will be too long for the block (giving me a negative for deck clearance?) I’ve tried looking everywhere for these answers but I assume I might be getting too specific. I know people use 0.550” CH pistons with 3.308” billets rods and up to 0.020” head gasket with no problems. Any information and guidance is greatly appreciated👍
Hello, For my Predator 212 build I used a ARC 6256 3.328+20 rod. I matched that to a .570 flat top piston. I used a gx160 head with 27mm/25mm stainless valves. I used a 308 cam with single 32lbs springs. Right now it has a .010 head gasket but I also have a .032 copper gasket that was recommended by Paul’s Karts. The engine runs fantastic actually more power than I like..😂 I should mention that it also has a Paul’s Karts 28mm performance carb. Thanks for watching!!
Woah that’s an awesome build! Similar to what I’m going for. I’m mostly aiming for lower end high torque, and I want ~5000/6000 RPM to be the sweet spot for speed. I’m definitely getting ignition with rev limiter so I don’t have an unfortunate accident lol. My biggest fear is making the piston go past the top of the cylinder block, so I should be in the clear if you’re running that connection rod and Piston combo. Also, correct me I’m wrong, but I’ve read that it’s better to run a carb with 1-2mm less than the intake, so I’m wondering why you’re running a 28mm carb with a 27mm intake?
@@vortexslayerf1729 Yes you’re correct about the carb size. I’m running that carb because it was provided for this build. I would run a 26mm for best results. This one is running rich but can be jetted down. Besides it’s a beautiful carb from Paul’s Karts
Thanks man I can’t wait to get it installed and go for a ride. Do think if I retard the timing it would be more reliable? Or just keep it at the 34 BTDC?
@@DIYWilly Engines do run much better with more timing, just the starting part is where you can run into issues. Usually, a lot of timing mixed with good compression means an electric starter though. You'll find out whether it's going to break rope starter components or not soon enough. 🤣
Hello Israel, From my understanding the coil itself is wound different allowing it to create hotter spark. This is why the coil gap on the flywheel is larger. Thanks for watching!!
Hello Royalknight, Did the flywheel come with documentation? What is the timing fabricated in to the flywheel? The ARC flywheels I use come with 32 degrees built in to them. Should match them with the cam timing recommendation. Do you have an aftermarket cam? Is the key a degree key or stock key? Sorry for the questions but trying to help. Let me know the manufacturer and model of the flywheel so I can research it a bit… Thanks for watching!!
@@royalknight4742What’s the brand of flywheel? Is the key a degree key? Is it offset or just a regular key? You may need to use the key to back the timing to 28 degrees. Or advance it to 32 or 34 degrees. You posted on redit right. I say that post. Timing is important and will help with kick back. I guessing the engine ran fine before the new flywheel? So I would also assume you didn’t adjust the valves. So if it ran before it should still run the same. Flywheel install should affect it that much. Is the coil cap correct?
@@DIYWilly no no I don’t think that was me that posted on Reddit the engine is running fine I installed the new flywheel. It is running fine other than it shakes more than what it used to and I installed 18 pound valve springs also.
Hello James, The 308 cam I used required 34 degrees timing. The ARC flywheel is built with 32degrees. I used the 2 degree key to get the needed 34 degrees. Great question! Thanks for watching!!!
That thing is Beefy 👀🔥🔥🔥
Still need to weld up an exhaust. I can’t get the carb dialed in until I have it.
@DIYWilly yea what's the cheapest welder to buy are those big gun lookin ones any good I know there's a mini welder that looks cool just don't wanna waste my money it would take some use to see if it's good and by then I wouldn't be able to return it or I could rent one from home depot
We in here 💪🏼💯💨💨💨💨
I can’t wait to take it for a ride.
@@DIYWilly same here hope u feel better and get the gas thing squared away
@@SpACeCruizeR2o3 I hope to get some gas next week and the welder will sing once again…
@DIYWilly sweet so are the electric welders enough u think to stretch my frame out
@@SpACeCruizeR2o3 Sorry man today is my first day back to work. I didn’t have time to answer. I like Lincoln or Hobart welders but they can get pricey. I’ve been curious about Harbor freight’s Titanium brand welders. They have good reviews but I haven’t tried one. They have one right now for $179.99. It’s a gasless/core wire 115v MIG welder and would be perfect for what you want to do. Check it out. There also some china ones on Amazon again I’ve never tried them. Just try not to go too cheap because you won’t be happy and welding a frame takes a decent welder.
You actually want the notch in the key facing the rear of the motor that will allow you to turn the flywheel clockwise 2°. Also holding the flywheel while torquing its nut can spin the crank shaft taking out that additional 2° of timing you wanted , hold it from the left side.
Hello Boosted, Yes the notch was installed facing the rear (head) side of the engine with the key facing forward to advance the timing. Reversing it would retard the timing. The idea is to rotate the flywheel clockwise to increase the timing. Thanks for watching!!!
It's a bird it a plane heck no that's a Willy yah?mmmmmmm
👍😂😂Thanks man!!
@@DIYWilly I got to get to working on my mm80 the 52 mph the ghost is doing is not going to keep up with that bad boy
It's good to have you back robert...
It’s good to be back Jorge!!
Thats the first time iv'e heard of a flywheel being lapped in, learn something new every day. Wow that thing looks like a factory team polished race motor!👍💪
Thanks Lou-eye, It is a great looking engine. There have been some changes along the way but it’s getting there.
Look sweet!! Can’t wait to hear and see it go!
Thanks man!! 💯
Hey Willy, I’d like to know if the vent tubes come in a kit from PK or if you had to buy it all in separate pieces. Also do you have to drill and retap the top ARC billet side cover to get the new AN fittings from PK? I was going to do /8” NPT to 1/2” barbed fittings and 1/2” clear tubbing but I really like the look of the AN lines and those two how’s brackets to hold them straight 👏🏼. So damn Sexy! Paul makes some great stuff, I just hate having to pay his shipping charges too. Hell 2 barbed fitting $9 each so $18 the another $22 to ship them is like no thanks.
Hello ol-man-Duffy, All the parts used were purchased separately from Amazon. I will update the links to show parts used. The hole in the ARC side cover are very close but I did run a tap through all the holes including the valve cover to get the fittings to work the way I wanted them. I should have talked more about the install. I do wish I would have went with a larger diameter but these are 4an size. Thanks for watching!!!
Ok thanks Willy I’ll look there and keep an eye on your parts list in case you change them. I agree -4 would be 4/16 or 1/4” inside diameter. I def. Want to go 3/8” or 1/2” but that would require some machine work on that cover. Looks very clean though and hope to see more of this motor running and winding out moving forward. She needs to see 6-7k in the rpm range before she starts burning that fuel and using that timing you put into her. I’m thinking a stall clutch or 5k stall TQ converter would make this engine a rocket. My build is VERY similar.
Probably won’t see this one back on the channel. Crashed the bike last week. I’ll talk that engine off and try and save the frame.
Hello DIY Willy! Sure enjoy your videos. Can you tell me where I can get a valve cover like the one you have on your 212?
Hello aaron, I ordered from OMBwarehouse. They run out of stock fast so you’ll have to keep checking. Actual I didn’t see on their site anymore. Thanks for watching.
I purchased a coil from Paul's kart as you suggested. Waiting for it to arrive so I can put it on my built 212 predator.
Hello Gilbert, Paul’s coils are bad a$$. Thanks for watching!!!
@DIYWilly I installed, broke a valve spring, added a big valve head ported and milled. Test road today and I can agree they are. I am using the autolite spark plug with it. I was cruising at 64 m.p.h today on the river bed near my house today.
@@GILSJOURNEY 64mph is no joke on a minibike. Congrats!! Be safe!!
@@DIYWilly I agree, it's plenty fast for anyone
@@DIYWilly Thank you
Hello, I’m currently in the process of building a Honda GX200 clone performance engine (212cc for the time being) from scratch for the fun of it and learning purposes, and from the research I’ve done, hopefully these few questions can be answered, and my apologies if they’ve been answered. What’s the stock length of the Connecting Rod for the clones; when is it appropriate to use dual valve springs and forged pistons such as those expensive ones from Wiseco; and if using a 0.640” comp. height piston, 3.308” billet rod, and a 0.010” head gasket combo will be too long for the block (giving me a negative for deck clearance?) I’ve tried looking everywhere for these answers but I assume I might be getting too specific. I know people use 0.550” CH pistons with 3.308” billets rods and up to 0.020” head gasket with no problems. Any information and guidance is greatly appreciated👍
Hello, For my Predator 212 build I used a ARC 6256 3.328+20 rod. I matched that to a .570 flat top piston. I used a gx160 head with 27mm/25mm stainless valves. I used a 308 cam with single 32lbs springs. Right now it has a .010 head gasket but I also have a .032 copper gasket that was recommended by Paul’s Karts. The engine runs fantastic actually more power than I like..😂 I should mention that it also has a Paul’s Karts 28mm performance carb. Thanks for watching!!
Woah that’s an awesome build! Similar to what I’m going for. I’m mostly aiming for lower end high torque, and I want ~5000/6000 RPM to be the sweet spot for speed. I’m definitely getting ignition with rev limiter so I don’t have an unfortunate accident lol. My biggest fear is making the piston go past the top of the cylinder block, so I should be in the clear if you’re running that connection rod and Piston combo. Also, correct me I’m wrong, but I’ve read that it’s better to run a carb with 1-2mm less than the intake, so I’m wondering why you’re running a 28mm carb with a 27mm intake?
@@vortexslayerf1729 Yes you’re correct about the carb size. I’m running that carb because it was provided for this build. I would run a 26mm for best results. This one is running rich but can be jetted down. Besides it’s a beautiful carb from Paul’s Karts
Beautiful build! Can't wait to hear it!
Thanks man I can’t wait to get it installed and go for a ride. Do think if I retard the timing it would be more reliable? Or just keep it at the 34 BTDC?
@@DIYWilly Engines do run much better with more timing, just the starting part is where you can run into issues. Usually, a lot of timing mixed with good compression means an electric starter though. You'll find out whether it's going to break rope starter components or not soon enough. 🤣
It already pulls hard, I tried it yesterday. Better invest in pull start parts…😂😂😂
Is the coil upgraded form the wire or the whole wire and coil ? Cause I'm curious why not change just the wire and grand it ?
Hello Israel, From my understanding the coil itself is wound different allowing it to create hotter spark. This is why the coil gap on the flywheel is larger. Thanks for watching!!
Do I have to use the key that comes with the flywheel or not I’m trying to figure out if that makes a difference
Hello Royalknight, Did the flywheel come with documentation? What is the timing fabricated in to the flywheel? The ARC flywheels I use come with 32 degrees built in to them. Should match them with the cam timing recommendation. Do you have an aftermarket cam? Is the key a degree key or stock key? Sorry for the questions but trying to help. Let me know the manufacturer and model of the flywheel so I can research it a bit… Thanks for watching!!
@@DIYWilly nope didn’t come with anything lol
@@DIYWilly just a key
@@royalknight4742What’s the brand of flywheel? Is the key a degree key? Is it offset or just a regular key? You may need to use the key to back the timing to 28 degrees. Or advance it to 32 or 34 degrees. You posted on redit right. I say that post. Timing is important and will help with kick back. I guessing the engine ran fine before the new flywheel? So I would also assume you didn’t adjust the valves. So if it ran before it should still run the same. Flywheel install should affect it that much. Is the coil cap correct?
@@DIYWilly no no I don’t think that was me that posted on Reddit the engine is running fine I installed the new flywheel. It is running fine other than it shakes more than what it used to and I installed 18 pound valve springs also.
Shouldn't you retard it 2 degrees rather than advance it?
Hello James, The 308 cam I used required 34 degrees timing. The ARC flywheel is built with 32degrees. I used the 2 degree key to get the needed 34 degrees. Great question! Thanks for watching!!!
@@DIYWilly right, so you moved the timing 2 degrees back not forward?
Yes 👍 BTDC