Arc Billet Aluminum Flywheel: How To Install
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- Опубликовано: 21 май 2016
- Mini Bike Build Playlist • Engine Mods, Intake, E...
Shows how to install an aluminum billet flywheel on any small engine, such as the predator 212cc or briggs 5 hp flathead. The video goes over flywheel lapping, timing, torque specifications for the flywheel nut, and magneto (flywheel gap) gap settings. Having a billet flywheel on a performance modified small engine is critical for safety and reliability as a stock cast iron flywheel can crack and fly apart when revving above the previously governed rpms. Check out the product links below for all of the tools and parts used in the flywheel installation video:
Predator 212cc Billet Flywheel (hemi & non-hemi): (ebay)
goo.gl/vB8nRf
Briggs 5 hp Billet Flywheel: (ebay) goo.gl/mDuHlj
Gx200/clone/lifan/BSP Billet Flywheel (ebay)
goo.gl/1DGnKs
Valve Grinding/Lapping Compound (amazon): amzn.to/1TCB91P (ebay) goo.gl/pLEqiv
Torque Wrench: (amazon) amzn.to/1XqliVv (ebay) goo.gl/v7k8QD
Feeler Gauge: (amazon) amzn.to/1WL9LBG (ebay)
goo.gl/e7zt4Y
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Music: Broke For Free: Nothing Like Captain Crunch (creative commons use) 
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if you have an old clutch you can take it apart and use the part with the key as a crank securer, it has grooves to set a bolt or two in between 👍
hey i just found your channel...im an ASE certified technician and also a custom fabricator....i like the work you do and how you explain what you're doing ...keep it up.
thanks, I appreciate it.
no offense but that ase bs is a bunch shit.
@@matthewlee2686 couldn't agree more with you sir!! I couldn't tell you how many "ASE Master Techs" that lost their jobs because of their pure stupidity! With that being said there are some genius "ASE Techs" out there obviously, their the ones who got that title only for the increase in pay!
Another option for holding the crank, you could use a sprocket the right size for your crankshaft and a chain whip (buy or weld some old chain to a handle) to hold it. Use a similar trick for bicycle freewheels, should work the same.
Thanks for all the help sir. My bike screaming again baby!😎
Glad to help
The plate you made was neat and the torque converter back plate is a good idea, but you could also just feed a bunch of rope into the cylinder with the head on through the spark plug hole and not worry about marring or damaging your output shaft. I have been doing it that way for years with no problems to date. The shaft will move unlike the plate idea but if you use a click torque wrench it won't matter.
Good idea. Its a cheap alternative. I just dont feel comfortable putting a rope in there and stressing the head bolts. Plus, you could bend the exhaust valve if you put the rope in there on the exhaust stroke.
will it fit a briggs 160 cc 5hp engine from a push mower
i have two Briggs 5 hp Flathead,s one is blown up the other one is being fixed and modified the blown up 5 hp is getting fixed for a mini chopper project and the modified one is on my mini bike cant wait to get the billet flywheel for both of them
I might be getting another 5 hp soon my local junkyard had one sitting in a huge pile of old worn out engine blocks
yeah they are pretty nice. Get yourself a PZ22 knockoff carb for that and it will do pretty well.
Thanks I appreciate it
Is the starter basket just held in place by the 65 ft lbs from the nut?
Haha nice.. I am building the same bike but I am doing the same stuff your doing with a Honda 6.5hp had to change flywheels with magnetic is side for powering the light
Nice.
Can ya show, how to add ring gear, stator, and regulator to an engine like this?
Hey guys, if you do not have a welder or a 30 series torque converter, put a bolt in the crankshaft output and hold it tight with a breaker bar while you torque down the flywheel nut. Saves time and money!
Where exactly would this be? All the bolt holes seem far from the crankshaft
@@treerexaudi the threads that run inside the crankshaft on the pto side
@@lazarusbambakidis6820 Ah alright cool thanks!
I noticed there was wores sticking out of the coil or magneto when torquing it down. Where did you wire those up or do I not have to that on order for the engine to eun?
+Wyatt Knight two main wires come out of the magneto: spark plug wire and kill switch wire.
Can you use the "rope down the spark plug hole" trick, to keep the crank from turning? Or can that bend valves?
Can and does. You can also use a “strap wrench” with very good success
@@KartFab I'm confused because you answered with "also"... is the spark plug trick ok to do? .. He had asked two questions
if you install a billet flywheel, is it necessary to install billet connecting rod or anything else? Is anything else required for safe operation, or do other billet parts just improve performance? I know the flywheel is recommended if you remove the governor, but are any other parts (besides 18lb valve springs) for safe operartion?
Billet Connecting rod
So I have a pressure washer engine can that even work in a go kart because the throttle system is weird
+Edan Hurlbert yeah, two of my go karts have pressure washer engines. Look up the users manual and see if there is a "remote throttle" or "auto throttle" type connection.
nice welding
I have a 21hp Briggs and interested in a Aluminum flywheel with a stock crankshaft... will this upgrade help me big time on power....I am running a drag lawntracter..thank you for info
..Billy
If the flywheel is lighter you will accelerate faster but it won’t make more HP, just more acceleration. If you advance the timing by spinning the flywheel or a timing key that advances timing, it will allow you to rev higher depending on mods. Most stock engines run 22-25 DBTDC and you can advance to 26-32ish DBTDC on gas or higher on methanol. The things that give you the most power are carb and head combination.
can you install only the billet flywheel without the upgraded cam? can it be used with stock cam?
Yes
Could I put a wrench on the clutch nut and use a torque wrench on the other to torque it to 65 pounds
That would torque the clutch bolt to the same 65 ft lbs. Way too much for a small fastener. Might break it.
I have a 147 series BS engine off of a Tote Gote... I have had different opinions of flywheel torque. Does the 65 foot pounds apply to my motor as well? I had a mechanic tell me that 65 "inch pounds" was adequate... I have also heard stories of f wheels coming loose and tearing up the key way.. Whats the correct poundage on the f wheel? thanks
Iirc briggs calls for 55 ft lbs
so that's what my new flywheel looks like....nice....
So if I get the right cam put it dot to dot the arc fly wheel is timed? and should the piston be at TDC with the valves all the way closed and is it the dyno cam mod 2 I need? if you could tell me that would be much appreciated.
ok lets get this straight. Timing is when the spark plug fires, usually
set as degrees BTDC (degrees before top dead center). The Mod 2 cam
card (look it up if you don't have it- you also seem to need to
understand valve lash as well) specifies timing to be set at 32 DBTDC.
So now do you have that information you need to be able to check it. If
you have a arc billet flywheel, it will specify that the BTDC it is set
at at default with it set on a stock crank with the key installed. I was
lucky to have mine already set so i didn't have to double check it.
Most people buy a special timing advance key to modify the stock timing.
(you need to figure that out on your own). If you want to set your
timing (besides with flywheel default, or special timing keys) - you
will need a few special tools - dial bore gauge to measure tdc, degree
wheel to attach to crank, and a timing light (you can get away with no
timing light if you have an arc flywheel. Its all complicated for new
people so most people just do the key advance thing.
okay that help a lot thanks man!!
you use grind compound everytime you assemble it or just for 1st use?
Just 1st time to get it in the spot it needs to be in.
i removed the governor not knowing i also have to replace the flywheel. can i just replace the flywheel with a billet for safety reasons or do i HAVE to get new cams and a piston?
What did you find out about this bro?
I took a magnetron from a old lawnmower and hogged the holes out and down so I can upgrade to pointless on my Dyno Glide Deluxe Motorized bicycle,Briggs 61102 engine? I could put that aluminum flywheel from the mower on there I suppose for a power gain as the Coil converted over well.
Whatever coil goes with the flywheel is the one you should use. Also, flywheel taper and timing should also be a consideration.
Can I put one of these flywheels without changing the cam or anything else? (Predator 212 cc non hemi)
+Paulie Detmurds yea, just make sure it's for the non hemi engine. I'd put a billet rod in before I put in a billet flywheel.
KartFab Thanks for the response!
What do you have to do differently on a predator 212cc-hemi in order to install the aluminum flywheel with 8 degrees timing advance built into the keyway & 32 degrees BTDC ?... I have already put a torque converter on and the engine is built by removing the governor and upgrading rods and springs.. Also would a torque converter be just as good at securing it in place? I'm doing this all on my coleman ct200u minibike. Thanks in advance.
Did you use a long enough extension to put the magneto on?
+Brad Crone block came with electric start crank, which I used, so the magneto also came with spacers, which I used.
Hey, do you need to replace the cam if you put an ARC Billet Flywheel? Because I know the cam comes with a card and shows specific timing and valve springs. But does the flywheel require other parts replaced?
the stock flywheel can be used up to a certain rpm (which is debatable) vibrations caused by imbalances, high rpms, and centrifugal forces may cause the stock flywheel to crack, spin on the crank, and or fly apart. Most people agree that a stock flywheel at stock rpms 3600 up to about 5500 rpms on a quality engine is safe enough. However, some uneducated people would put in a rev kit, and a nice cam, then rev to a very high rpm, and the flywheel would explode (at what rpm is not clear, and not predictable engine to engine) causing serious injury and possibly death. So, stock flywheel and billet flywheel are identical with the exception of what they are made of. So the billet flywheel just wont fly apart at very high rpms and is considered SAFE at any rpm you can turn on a small engine.
***** yes, I understand this concept, but I'm wondering if you have to replace the can after putting a billet flywheel on
tim, if you fully understood the concept, you wouldn't have to ask that question. Let me break it down just a little bit more for you. The cam determines when and how high your valves move, as well as how long your valves stay open. The only relationship the cam should have to the flywheel is this: cam determines what you set flywheel timing at- thats it. A billet flywheel doesnt really determine anything else very important other than not blowing up at high RPMS and moving that little magnet around to make the spark jump on the plug when it passes over the magneto.
KartFab thanks man! makes more sense now. it would be nice if I could ask these questions on some page because I got lots of them
+Tim Kuzmenko diygokarts.com then go to the forum
Hey man I just realized this is there a way to put like a gear on it to where it can be electric start not saying it has to be this specific flywheel but I do want to get a fly wheel from this brand I was just wondering if there’s a model that I could like put in a electric starter🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Some flywheels have this option
@@KartFab does arc make one?
Does replacing the flywheel increase power, or does it just add reliability? I'm not looking for more power (don't want to put too much power through my torque converter), I'm just looking for peace of mind when I remove the governor. I'm already running 18lbs springs.
Replacing flywheel with billet will reduce engine inertia but not increase horsepower. An engine with “high” inertia resists acceleration and deceleration. The less inertia an engine has, the faster it will accelerate. Again, this does not change horsepower, only allows the available horsepower to accelerate what you are riding faster than what you would be able to do normally.
@@KartFab Gotcha. Thanks for the helpful reply!
i know that you are doing this on a briggs but are the torque specs the same?
and also lol about them feeler gauges cuz i just used a bussiness card and i got spark and good spark haha
where did you get that adapter for the carb?
+Jeremy Haas made it.
I know you might not see this but I was wondering if I can just put a billet flywheel on, i removed the governor and I have a predator 212 carb on my 5 horse Briggs and a exhaust
Billet crank before flywheel. The Briggs flywheels don’t normally have issues
KartFab ok, thanks
Can you use just the flywheel and nothing else
did you buy or build the intake
+vanhornjim build
would it work for my 6.0hp tecumseh? I'm sure it will but just checking
+Tennin yeah, just get the right flywheel and connecting rod for your particular model.
What do you mean by camshaft set for that range? I'm going to be getting the same 30 degree flywheel, and replacing the cheap cam on a brand new Predator212, please add a link for the cam you bought for this flywheel. Thanks.
Reading the description would answer half of your questions so please do that. Also, when i say camset set for that range, i mean the camshaft dictates a lot of things that you need to do to your engine: for example, your camshaft card will tell you: what pound springs to use, what fuel octane rating you need to use, compression ratio you should set your engine to, timing range BTDC, and valve lash clearance.
( ; ) ) Thanks. Found the right one.
Found a 32 btdc flywheel and cam, that calls for 36lb springs.
hey bud me again. so i got every thing all together thanks to your videos!! but I'am having an issue with timing thing nearly yanked my arm off, i bought the cam and fly wheel that should time together. Any ideas? is it possible to put the magnet on backward?
ok update on that idk if it is timing the engine still stalls as it approaches tdc with the spark plug disconnected but moves freely with it out. all i can gather is for some reason it's building too much pressure in the head for some reason i havent run it long but it seems to do fine if you set it in a sweet spot then rip the cord.
+alex pat pull slowly to compression stroke, reset pull cord, then pull. Check valve lash at TDC on compression stroke.
+alex pat sweet spot= compression stroke before TDC. If your valve las is not set properly, the compression release may not work, causing a hard pull. Compression release is on camshaft.
i adjusted the lash to to suggested spec still go a hard pull. i think from here i just need to tinker with it till i get it. i went from to hard of a pull to to soft. im sure i can figure this out thanks for all your help and your videos keep up the good work ill keep watching.
ok have fun. If you pulled yoru flywheel it could be a sheared flywheel key if you didnt get it torqued to spec. I dont know much more than that. If you put in a new cam, you need to check out the timing dots at tdc to make sure they line up.
Anyone know if the billet flywheel has big enough magnetos to run a charging coil?
I have an old charging coil and i dont wanna have to take stuff apart again if its not gonna work in the first place.. thanks 👍
Billet flywheel does not have magnets on the inside of the flywheel and it will not charge anything.
@@KartFab 👍 thank u
When's the next video?
did briggs 5hp engines have an option of a aluminum flywheel stock? I have an old aluminum flywheel I believe off a 5hp that I saved from school They were going to melt it down but luckily I grabbed 2 of them. I wonder if they would fit my 212. they look very similar to an arc flywheel
+Shintaro Dee they are not interchangeable.
The cast aluminum stock flywheels are banned in organized kart racing. They are prone to explode above 3500 RPM.
@@Splungers Do you mean "cast iron" stock flywheels?
@@michaeljoyner4911 The stock 3 HP cast iron briggs flywheel is an old school hop up part. use a 3 hp coil, and a step down adapter plate. I've seen those turned 8000 rpm. There exists a cast aluminum stock flywheel that should not be used on anything above 3500 rpm.
One more question, could you do a video on why or why not buy a hemi 212 cc (Predator) engine over a non hemi? Or, just answer it here if you don't want to do a vid? Thank You, love your vids!
+Paulie Detmurds doesn't really matter one way or another unless you are splitting hairs and racing them.
Thank You again Sir!
is this possible with other engines like Honda or Tecumseh?
+fridz magnuson yup. Same process.
So I can just slap it on as showed with the stock key and timing won't be off since it's set with the key no special tricks or tips?
Correct. You can always check timing with a timing light but it’s not necessary 99% of tge time
I don't have to worry about tdc or my crank turning while installing I don't mean to bother with questions I just don't want mess up lol I'm just nervous when it come to anything timing related thanks for the reply
@@iamkirbo5069 just torque to spec with stock key and you will be at whatever the flywheel is specified to be at
@@KartFab I got it done man appreciate it I was in my head a little about it more than I should
Hi if im putting the stock one back on how many ft lbs and what if i dont torque it down
+Nick donato 55 ft lbs iirc(check the manual) and if you don't torque it to spec you run the risk of shearing the flywheel key and/or spinning your flywheel. Both of these can cause your engine to not run, or break entirely.
You put the key in, but you make sure the flat edge of the key is parallel to the crankshaft, NOT parallel to the crankshaft taper.
So 55 foot lbs is the torqued spec for a stock flywheel
where can i get the predator stage 3 kit video from so i can learn
I'm pretty sure that GoPowerSports has a video about the installation on their website
Just had a question I have a 6.5 greyhound and everything is ok beside when the choke is on it runs and when I take the choke off it dies
+Crazyjesse11 fuel delivery problem causing your engine to run lean.clean your carb.
I have already clean it and it's still doing the same
well, what you are describing is a fuel delivery problem, so I dont know what else to tell you. Clean out the tank, union, fuel line, bowl, all passages in carb, including removing the jet and emulsion tube.
Ok cool thanks I'm going to clean the tank
So I clean the gas tank got new gas lines and I bought a new carburetor and it's still dies
Do you need the rod
when you going to post the next part of the build
+Ya Know Who in 2 weeks
+KartFab sweet and I am going to love this build
I have a few questions that I'd really appreciate help with.
If I have a gx270 clone with the governor removed. Maxes out at about 4180rpm, but is not very consistent for obvious reasons. I just want a slight upgrade.
A- how do I determine the stock valve spring strength? (Hours on the Internet turned up nothing)
B- how do I find the appropriate upgrade springs? People have said to use "18 lbs springs", but no website lists information this way, example 95lbs @ 1.125" seemingly minimum, if it provides any information other than the word "upgrade".
C- if I upgrade my springs, what rpm would I be likely to see?
D- if I upgrade my valve springs, will I break the stock connecting rod? I haven't been able to find a single story confirming or elaborating on this.
+Will6804 will. A lot of the 'newer' Honda engines have a built in rev limiter set to 4200 rpms. This is not the governor, rather the magneto/ignition itself. Your stock springs will take you to around 5500 rpms. Do not change out springs, they will only rob power with the same 4200 rpm limit.I personally would find new magneto without the rpm limiter (where? No idea- Google it) high flow intake, rejet, and exhaust would be the next step. Don't run engine at high rpms without rejetting first or it will run lean, overheat, and possibly fail. I would personally feel 'safe' with a genuine Honda not throwing a rod for short bursts up to about 5500 rpm.
+KartFab thanks for the info. My next thought I guess would be, would it be possible to simply take apart a magneto and bypass the limiter? I'm assuming that it's just a simple clock-like circuit, I might just be able to cut it out and have a standard coil. At that point, it would just be a basic spark generator. Any thoughts on this?
HellishGrin460
get a valve spring pressure tester.
I haven't looked at the price of one in years, but it might be worth it if you get into engines.
And it can be used for other things.
I saw an article years ago, about using 4 of them to make 4 scales to weigh your car.
What carburetor and intake are you using on this engine? Why?
cheap, and reliable, please look at the playlist and it shows me put it on. its a honda gx200 carb
KartFab Thanks.
Ok I need a the performance cup for the arc adjustable 212 non hemi engine. The stock cup will not work
There’s a performance cup? Whaaaaat
For a drag mower on dirt 150 ft line to line what motor you with
Gear for 35-40 mph tops.better have some grippy tires.
KartFab what motor would you choose
@@jeffcox3109 a torquey one with a wide powerband, not sure what the rules are though so i couldnt tell ya.
KartFab my fault , all mowers has to be belt driven , hp range you brig it you can run it. There is 20 guys that race . I know nothing about motors unfortunately. They want tell me anything that’s ok. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks for your time
So the main performance gains you will see with an engine are with a carburetor and cylinder head work. Common engines for these vertical shaft motors that have performance upgrade options are the briggs Vanguard v-twins. You would want some type of slide carburetor and a higher compression ratio with a camshaft that would be a pulling or torque mid range type of camshaft. With the head you would get the head milled and get shorter pushrods with higher spring tension valve springs. Possibly a three angle valve job with a fully ported intake and exhaust port. The valve size might be enlarged if you go with a more extreme camshaft and you would need roller rockers for extra mid range to higher range power with an aggressive camshaft. These are all general guidelines and I Have never built a performance v-twin. The main thing here is to get a better carburetor and get some serious had work done and put in a better camshaft then the one that is in there and you will do very well. It is not just engine work but during so make sure you do a lot of trial runs with curing to figure out the best top the b The main thing here is get a better carburetor and get some serious had work done and put in a better camshaft than the one that is in there and you will do very well. It is not just engine work but curing so make sure you do a lot of trial runs with during to figure out the best Ratio for highest speed at 150 feet. In my limited experience, you would probably want to go 35 to 40 miles an hour as your top speed at the engines target top RPM
if i put this on my kart will i have to upgrade anything else?
+DEATH METAL this is one of the last things to upgrade on a go kart engine.
Ok
How can the old flywheel break apart?
Spinning too fast. Centrifugal force.
Is plastic still just as fast
+Will it Blow up say what?
my 1985 tecumseh has the "high tec" cup..
too bad tecumseh is out of business now. I have never had much luck with their carbs.
Some locking pliers will NOT Mar the crankshaft for stopping the engine from turning when you are installing the flywheel I've always done it that way and I never damaged a crankshaft from doing it that way all is did was put the locking pliers on the output side of the crankshaft and have the engine on a bench and turn the the motor over the same direction as you would be if you were tightening the crankshaft and when the pliers hit the bench it will stop it from turning and then you can torque it Down
+alex pencek what did you torque it down to? Mine broke loose still clamped at 35 ft lbs, even when clamped hard.
KartFab hi kart fab i have just installed the same fky wheel and im wondering were you found the camshaft for yours
Bad practice good way to chip the keyway groove at least out a piece of rubber hose between the grips and the shaft.
What happens if I only tighten my flywheel to 15 ft lbs. will it still run. I want to get the engine running but won't have the recourses to torque it to 60 until later this year.
+Owen Stephenson it can spin the flywheel on the shaft and break your engine.
wont start it then. thx for the help.
could i use a torque driver to torque it on?
You could just use an impact wrench set on low or with a torque stick to torque the flywheel and hold the PTO with your hand. You really don’t need to use a torque wrench.
That was a pre 1981 engine because it had points
Your links dont work
Impact go brrrrr
haha torgue things down, wing it with a impact wrench
I replaced my flywheel and it ran for like 5 seconds before it shut off and now she won't start back up.
You probably spun the flywheel on the crank by not torquing it to spec so your timing is off.
Either that or you fried your magneto by not spacing it far enough from flywheel magnets
Idk what happened yesterday but I swapped the carburetor out with one I bought on Amazon as a backup and she fired right up. I went on a couple test rides and let it idle in the garage for a minute it sounds good. But I can hear a rattle and it wanted to stay around 3k rpm for a second before dropping back to idle. I checked the flywheel and the cup everything feels tight still doesn't look like the nut moved any. I'm going to check it out again tomorrow.
I was still using the stock carb and I've been having issues with it so I got a replacement and had it sitting in the box incase I needed it. Its just a cheap stock replacement the only other difference is I didnt swap the new jet on it. I have a air filter and exhaust upgrade as well as the flywheel and the filter came with a little fitting thing. Its still in the old carb.
I found the problem. My cheap torque converter is going bad. Its grabbing and staying stuck.
A plastic fly wheel just because it's light
+Will it Blow up PVL? Yes.
One step closer to finishing the briggs 5 hp performance build with a shiny arc billet flywheel. Links are in the description for all the parts and tools used in the video. Any guesses on how fast this thing is going to go?
awwww why would you waste all that effort and money on a Briggs???
+jacob dingledine because I can? XD
Kartfab
You had to grunt to get 65 ft. lbs? C'mon bro....
+Bobby Donahoo hey man I went to the doctor and he diagnosed me with a condition called wuss-itis. It's chronic.
KartFab good one! Had to give a hard time about it.
For someone that doesn't know much, this is not a tutorial, it's just talking and it's not showing anything
I could hold your hand and spoon feed it to you if you would like.
+KartFab wtf
+KartFab but honestly it's not really a tutorial, you gotta show some things as well
I understand what you are saying (e.g. didnt show the plastigage part).... but there comes a point where people that want to do engine work need to do the work. I showed enough for any competent person to follow along. If somebody doesnt know much, they wouldnt be putting a flywheel on an engine, they would be taking it to a shop and paying somebody to do this.
+KartFab ahh cool, I don't work on engines much other than maybe some cleaning or carb change. I mostly work on body work and other things for tractors
Just get flywheel holder,,problem solved,no welding needed,u waste 2 much time on nonsence,,there is other ways 2 do it simpler!!!!
Yeah but where’s the fun in that?