Man I wish I was I lived closer to you.. I don’t trust anyone over here to fix the head gaskets properly.. there’s no powerstroke “specialist”. Cool videos man keep them coming 👍
It's horrible these days with mechanics , I'm out 14,000 and still having to rebuild another engine because I got screwed by 3 different mechanics ..it really sucks
Hey, Cody great video but just to correct one thing that I heard you saying if the tap goes thru no problem, but that's a big no no you DO NOT want it to go right through cuz NPT threads are taper threads & rule of thumb is that you only need to go 3/4th of the thread length on the tap and if you go right thru you won't have any taper left in the threads in order to snug up anything!
You ever hear of a sensor probe popping out of its nut? Mine did the day after towing for hours on a slight uphill with EGTs in the 1100 range. Got the probe tightened back in twice, but the third time it wouldn't stay in at all as gravity just dropped it out like a pencil falling out of a vacuum. Truck is "bullet proof'd" I suspect the high heat from the day before warped the metal enough to not hold. Interested in your thoughts.
Great video! I have a video challenge for you, I would like to see a PID On the Livewire TS that shows fuel pressure. I know this can be done but I’ve never seen it on RUclips. This would most certainly get a lot of views. What do you think?
Does it matter where about the header you install the EGR? I am guessing it will not read the temperature of the last cylinders in the back or it won't have an accurate reading of the other side of the block. Would you rather install the sensor some where in between each exhaust manifold?
This IS in fact at the rearward lower section of the drivers side manifold. All cylinder glasses will pass right over the sensor in the location shown here. You guys are looking at it wrong. He's under the truck, at the most rearward portion of the manifold right behind the very last cylinder. Hope this helps y'all and others.
To clarify, it is indeed important to pick the appropriate area,l to install the temp sensor. I auure you he did it properly. I would know as a veteran Ford diesel tech of 13+ years and counting.
Hey man I got a question. My truck is studded deleted and has a sinister coolant filter. My truck seems like it builds a lot of pressure in the coolant system and the engine runs hot, but it doesn’t blow white smoke I’m not sure what it is. It also doesn’t start when it’s hot unless I spray starter fluid down the intake. Could you please help?
Do you think a vacuum would work too? Just asking. I bought b&d manifolds and it had a port already in it. My stock one was tapped on the passenger sid. Was like that when I bought it. Thanks for the info
I’m looking at picking up the sct gtx with the egt probe to go with it. Does anyone have any experience with this tuner and any reasons not to go with it, I haven’t been able to find too much info on it out there. All I’ve really seen is the live wire or the edge cts 2 and 3
What are you thoughts on Bill buying used 6.0s for 5k then giving them his "bulletproof" kits. Then selling trucks for 30-33k dollars. I personally believe he does great work. But I don't agree with his pricing.
Hey bud I need a Scanner to monitor these instead of a tuner I have two 6.0s and 7.3 from my old man i need to get running, this livewire TS is only for one truck?
Get a Scangauge 2 to move between trucks and follow the correct pids for what you want to monitor. If the pid is different between the 6.0 and the 7.3 just rename the 7.3 pid to some other 3 letter id and remember what is named and what it shows.
I would start by taking a look at all ur turbo piping and making sure all the clamps are secure, and that u don’t have any boost leaks from any of the pipes or boots, the factory cold pipe can be a problem where the baffles in the pipe will crack. Also the factory intercooler can have problems if u still have it installed because the end tanks are plastic crimped to the aluminum core, rather then solid aluminum welded tanks. If u don’t find anything there then I would start to look at the vgt system with the turbo, maybe a stuck unison ring, or worn out vgt solenoid
Pack your drill bits and tap with grease when you drill and tap the hole. Very messy but it will keep most to all of the chips out of the inside of the manifold so that the chips do not pass through the exhaust side of the turbo. If you noticed the manifold dips down at that point so a magnet will actually pickup very little at that point as the chips are farther down than the magnet has the power to reach. Also the iron manifold absorbs the magnetic field so that the magnet does not have much power left to capture chips. The only chips the magnet will attract are the ones right at the hole. Grease those puppies up. If you do not want to use grease use a strong shop vac on the hole and let it pull for a couple of minutes, you probably will not get anything after about 30 seconds but you never know.
Dude, drill bit size is really about bottom of thread and top of thread. If you don't use what they reccomend, you will end up with a self inflicted crack. Strike one.
Negative. I just bought this EXACT kit, and the revised instructions say to use a 21/64" bit as stated in the video. If you don't believe me, I'll make a video, and show my install along with some other tips not mentioned in this one. It worked flawlessly and effectively as shown in this example.
i love trucks, but i dont understand anyone who drives one for commuting. i drive a honda fit, get 40mpg, never have to service anything and i can park anywhere. to each is their own, but spending money to spend money is a luxury of the rich. and people who owns 6.0s arnt rich.
Man I wish I was I lived closer to you.. I don’t trust anyone over here to fix the head gaskets properly.. there’s no powerstroke “specialist”.
Cool videos man keep them coming 👍
It's horrible these days with mechanics , I'm out 14,000 and still having to rebuild another engine because I got screwed by 3 different mechanics ..it really sucks
Lol Bill is tough. He makes me feel like piece shit about my 6.0 power stroke. But he knows what's up. He's double tough.
Great video however you should get into what reduces EGT'S. Like exhaust, gears , more air less fuel and so on....
Hey, Cody great video but just to correct one thing that I heard you saying if the tap goes thru no problem, but that's a big no no you DO NOT want it to go right through cuz NPT threads are taper threads & rule of thumb is that you only need to go 3/4th of the thread length on the tap and if you go right thru you won't have any taper left in the threads in order to snug up anything!
Good advice! This is true
You ever hear of a sensor probe popping out of its nut? Mine did the day after towing for hours on a slight uphill with EGTs in the 1100 range. Got the probe tightened back in twice, but the third time it wouldn't stay in at all as gravity just dropped it out like a pencil falling out of a vacuum. Truck is "bullet proof'd" I suspect the high heat from the day before warped the metal enough to not hold. Interested in your thoughts.
Mine is installed on the down pipe, I don’t know if it works the same.
Great video! I have a video challenge for you, I would like to see a PID On the Livewire TS that shows fuel pressure. I know this can be done but I’ve never seen it on RUclips. This would most certainly get a lot of views. What do you think?
Not possible as there was never a factory sensor, you could wire up a transducer to measure fuel pfessure
I seen fuel pressure on a 6.7 off a scan tool! Nd it wasnt even a fancy scan tool either but yeah that 6.7 got huge fp
What EGT's could I expect to see on my 2005 6.0L at highway speed (65-70mph) stock truck no trailer attached?
Under 1000
Does it matter where about the header you install the EGR? I am guessing it will not read the temperature of the last cylinders in the back or it won't have an accurate reading of the other side of the block. Would you rather install the sensor some where in between each exhaust manifold?
Was thinking the same thing. Back cylinders get the hottest.
This IS in fact at the rearward lower section of the drivers side manifold. All cylinder glasses will pass right over the sensor in the location shown here. You guys are looking at it wrong. He's under the truck, at the most rearward portion of the manifold right behind the very last cylinder.
Hope this helps y'all and others.
To clarify, it is indeed important to pick the appropriate area,l to install the temp sensor. I auure you he did it properly. I would know as a veteran Ford diesel tech of 13+ years and counting.
my 6.o will idle for hour then shutdown, then i have to wait 10/ 15 minutes to start again
You have either a high pressure oil leak, or your hpop is near complete failure.
Cody thanks for the video!! Couldn't you just install a sensor in where the exhaust back pressure sensor goes?
How are you able to get it to stay on and watch temps when the trucks not running. As soon as I turn my key off it won’t read anymore
What happened to the boss Bluetooth monitor do you now prefer the sct?
Hey man I got a question. My truck is studded deleted and has a sinister coolant filter. My truck seems like it builds a lot of pressure in the coolant system and the engine runs hot, but it doesn’t blow white smoke I’m not sure what it is. It also doesn’t start when it’s hot unless I spray starter fluid down the intake. Could you please help?
Sounds like a HPOP leak. Starter fluid can blow up in your face and take out the injectors.
Maybe a dummy plug?
Do you think a vacuum would work too? Just asking. I bought b&d manifolds and it had a port already in it. My stock one was tapped on the passenger sid. Was like that when I bought it. Thanks for the info
How do you like that Milwaukee under hood light??
It’s amazing!
It’s amazing, I have one too, but I really recommend getting one of the bigger (4ah or 6ah) m12 batteries to go with it if u don’t have one already
clean truck! what headlights you running?
I’m looking at picking up the sct gtx with the egt probe to go with it. Does anyone have any experience with this tuner and any reasons not to go with it, I haven’t been able to find too much info on it out there. All I’ve really seen is the live wire or the edge cts 2 and 3
What are you thoughts on Bill buying used 6.0s for 5k then giving them his "bulletproof" kits. Then selling trucks for 30-33k dollars. I personally believe he does great work. But I don't agree with his pricing.
He does do every inch of those trucks though, paint and everything. But the last few years I’ve seen some that seem way too high for what it was.
Does this probe kit work on the sct gtx?
Hey bud I need a Scanner to monitor these instead of a tuner I have two 6.0s and 7.3 from my old man i need to get running, this livewire TS is only for one truck?
Get a Scangauge 2 to move between trucks and follow the correct pids for what you want to monitor. If the pid is different between the 6.0 and the 7.3 just rename the 7.3 pid to some other 3 letter id and remember what is named and what it shows.
Hey cody love the channel. Just curious any idea what i need to look at to troubleshoot why my 6.0 with a stock turbo will only go to 16 psi?
I would start by taking a look at all ur turbo piping and making sure all the clamps are secure, and that u don’t have any boost leaks from any of the pipes or boots, the factory cold pipe can be a problem where the baffles in the pipe will crack. Also the factory intercooler can have problems if u still have it installed because the end tanks are plastic crimped to the aluminum core, rather then solid aluminum welded tanks. If u don’t find anything there then I would start to look at the vgt system with the turbo, maybe a stuck unison ring, or worn out vgt solenoid
What wheels are those?
Bill's coming to get ya,,lol
Hey bud who you recommend for new tuner and custom tuning for my 6.0? Currently have mini maxx and hate it
Dm me on Instagram @left_lane_cbull
Pack your drill bits and tap with grease when you drill and tap the hole. Very messy but it will keep most to all of the chips out of the inside of the manifold so that the chips do not pass through the exhaust side of the turbo. If you noticed the manifold dips down at that point so a magnet will actually pickup very little at that point as the chips are farther down than the magnet has the power to reach. Also the iron manifold absorbs the magnetic field so that the magnet does not have much power left to capture chips. The only chips the magnet will attract are the ones right at the hole. Grease those puppies up.
If you do not want to use grease use a strong shop vac on the hole and let it pull for a couple of minutes, you probably will not get anything after about 30 seconds but you never know.
Straight piping the 6.0 significantly lowers the EGT’s right? On average how much lower?
Marginal drops in egts in stock platforms
@@LeftLaneDiesels I’m straight piped, deleted, and running Looney Wild.
Of course studded with all the other goodies.
@@Doom6.0 I’m studded/deleted straight piped /intake and running looneyWild tune and shit that tune made my head gasket goo 😭😭
@@dudesupra Mine is running GREAT! Maybe it was whoever did your motor work!? 😐🤔
Dude, drill bit size is really about bottom of thread and top of thread. If you don't use what they reccomend, you will end up with a self inflicted crack. Strike one.
Negative. I just bought this EXACT kit, and the revised instructions say to use a 21/64" bit as stated in the video. If you don't believe me, I'll make a video, and show my install along with some other tips not mentioned in this one. It worked flawlessly and effectively as shown in this example.
i love trucks, but i dont understand anyone who drives one for commuting. i drive a honda fit, get 40mpg, never have to service anything and i can park anywhere. to each is their own, but spending money to spend money is a luxury of the rich. and people who owns 6.0s arnt rich.
You almost lost a subscriber with your intro...lol...