Just swapped a 6.7l starter into my 7.3l with new battery cables... Fastest starting 7.3l I've ever seen. Starts just like a 6.7l but sounds beefier doing it. Totally recommend it
So I can not thank you enough. I have a 2003 6.0L I just replaced the starter an hour ago because all it would do is click and I went with your recommended 6.7L starter. All I can say is WOW!!! I always thought my tired truck just started and cranked hard because its got 420,000km but it starts almost instantly now!
Dear sir, I've seen all of your videos, some more than once. I don't even have a big truck to work on. I have a mom mobile, 2005 Honda Odyssey. I watch your videos because you're a great teacher and have truly inspired me to take on my own repairs. Thank you, I appreciate your work.
First and foremost thank you for the video it makes a tremendous difference when deciding exactly what I was contemplating 3 weeks ago. Newer 6.0 owner and I live in the Dakotas.
I just swapped nose cones. Had to soak it in solvent because 6.leaker. Only took 5 mins to swap over. No drilling/tapping to retain the lower M12 bolt. Bolted up perfectly. Wow. What a difference. Shoulda done this years ago.
I wasn't sure if I was going to upgrade to the 6.4 or 6.7 on my 6.0 but thanks to the data you presented it'll be the 6.7 starter . Thanks for the video.
Great video! A trick for the top bolt is to remove the wheel well skirt or just wedge it open at the bottom with a 2x4. You will be able to see the top bolt between the swing arm and frame. I broke it loose and used a air ratchet to get it out. Being able to see the hole makes reinstalling a breeze!
Another little trick is when installing the upper blind bolt, use a little electrical tape to hold the bolt into the socket. That way as you are trying to “feel” the bolt into its starting thread it will not accidentally fall out of the socket.
Thanks for the lesson, Nathan. I didn't know that the 6.0 starter could be upgraded. You did an awesome data comparison too. This video will be a classic for a long time. Aloha
Great how to vid! Thanks for confirming the voltage draw, that was my concern when I hear people talking about making the upgrade, will upgrade to the 6.7 when it’s time for another starter.
thanks for the info, just switched out my stock 6.0 starter with a take off 6.7 starter from a 2017, used the bushing for the lower bolt, install was easy except took some work for the upper bolt, definitely worth the upgrade, seems like the old 6.0 starts in half the time, i can easily see where this would aid winter starting by alot
Nathan, gr8 information as usual. My 6.0L starter I have a longer (bottom hole location) bolt that’s a bit longer so I’ve added a nut to the extended threads to keep it from backing out. Blind bolt I’ve removed w/a STUBY 13mm combination wrench (box end). It’s takes a while but if you’re in a comfortable position it’s not a big deal. Thx man, videos keep’m coming. Fran
That is an option. Many people aren’t comfortable doing that so I explain the way that doesn’t require it. Drilling and tapping is definitely a better way.
Great job! Thanks for the hard work! Good tips! I’m sure you can change that starter blind folded now! That 6.7 is flying!! Gotta upgrade to that soon!!
I replaced my starter a year ago with a gear reduction starter. It does the job well but if I would've known this at the time I would've just went with the 6.7. Great video though.
So I purchased my 6.7 starter only could find a three pack of the bolts but no worries it was 4 bucks. And ordered my expensive wrapped in gold bushing with head. 🤣 it showed up yesterday. Now the bushing can I lightly tap that into the starter bracket or does it need pressed in? Can this be done with a c clamp? Also I have it in my head to blue loctite all three bolts. Lastly Will the stock starter wires be fine long term or should that be an after winter project?
Great Starter comparison video it was very helpful. I will definitely reach for the 6.7 L power stroke starter the next time I replace my 6.0 L power stroke starter. Putting a little spacer for that extra bolt is not that big of a deal. I have a lathe myself I could probably make that out of some aluminum
In The Shop I have a 6.0 my self but it’s a 06 auto crew cab sb Harley Davidson Editon that’s black with gray flames on a leveling kit on some 20x9 Cali Off-road Twisted wrapped in 35x12.5 crosswind MTs
My question, I installed f250 6.0 ecm o ecu 🧐 anyways on my f350 6.0. Now would that effect the fuel sending unit or the fuel gage, reason is because it reads empty or full ???
@ In The Shop Quick Question I just purchased a 6.4 with no starter and when I installed a new starter and hooked up a battery the starter started clicking/tapping until disconnected. Because I couldn't see the 2 large studs could the clicking be because I hooked the power cable to the wrong stud? Thanks
I have 2 new batteries, I went through 3 starters on my 6.0 powerstroke within 6 months. bought it from autozone with a lifetime warranty. I wanted to take it to my local guy to rebuild it, but he wouldn't get to it for few days and I needed the truck to go to work. can you tell me if it's the autozone starter or something else is wrong. my powerstroke engine rebuilt recently with approximately 5I miles on it.
Is the bushing listed in the description from McMaster the exact size (8mm ID, 12mm OD, 20mm long) needed for the 6.7 starter or does that bushing also need “adjustment”? I’m looking for a bushing that will drop right in. Great Video and very helpful, Thank You....
I typically make them when I need them so I don't know for sure but I looked it up based on the exact dimensions I make mine to. Unfortunately I don't know how much the listed part deviates from the listed measurements.
Such a good video. I’m doing this upgrade on my 07 6.0. Would it be possible to use small washers instead of a sleeve for that third bolt on the 6.7 starter? It seems like it will work. Your tips are very much appreciated. Thanks from Canada!!!!
FYI. I just upgraded to the 6.7 starter last week. Job done. Thanks to all your tips, this job was a breeze. Had truck over a pit at our shop, so doing it from underneath was very easy. And what a difference in cranking! Starts with authority now. lol
Hey let me ask if you don't mind I have a 2004 6.0 super duty I have done put the the fuel pump on under the driver seat done a little better but still after a while driving like it didn't get no fuel it was like a fuel can pull over and wait a minute or two get a crank up and go back down the until it does it again somebody said he had a second fuel where would it be located and do you have any information that I can used in case is not the fuel pump
On the passenger side fender there is a single wire with a round connector. If you follow it, it is loomed in with the large positive cable that goes down to the starter.
that "snout " only really only found on aftermarket starters .. I've never seen a OEM one that has it ... from what I have been able to gather .. the 6.7 and 6.4 starters have less reduction so they do crank Faster but have less "cranking torque" according to published starter specs
The 6.7L starter is the way to go in your 6.0L. I can't believe that you took the time to make a spacer for the M8 bolt. I have seen the same thing in other vids about changing a 6.0l starter for a 6.7L and using a spacer. Some even used plastic for the spacer. Back in the day they used to teach basic metal working such as how to drill a hole in metal, how to tap threads in metal, and how to repair damaged threads in High School as a matter of course. Nowadays if you can count to 10 on your fingers you are good to go. Great testing without making us suffer through all of the starter changing. You DO NOT NEED THE SPACER. The 6.0 bottom bolt is a M12X1.75X40 bolt. The 6.7 bottom bolt is a M8X1.25X40mm bolt. Looking at your three starters the 6.0l, 6.4l, 6.7l ALL use the same flange for each starter. The difference between a M12 bolt dia and a M8 bolt dia is 0.157 of an inch. divide that by 2 you get 0.0785 or slightly more than 1/16 of an inch on any side of the larger bolt. The meat is the same on the 6.0 and 6.7L flange, 1/16 of an inch difference in the bolt hole sizes is not important. Just take a drill and tap kit for a M12X1.75 bolt. carefully drill out the 8MM hole with the tap drill, take the tap and cut new M12X1.75 threads in the cleaned out hole. Now use your old 6.0L bottom bolt in the newly tapped hole to direct bolt in your 6.7L starter. The tap and die kit is $12-$18 dollars or so about twice the cost of a new bolt but definitely cheaper than making/sourcing a spacer that is not as good as the original 12MM bolt would be. It is not any different than if the threads were damaged and you had to install a larger size bolt to repair the starter. The bolts provide clamping force as their main function. The secondary function of the bolts is to hold the starter in the more or less correct location so that the pinion teeth align with the flywheel teeth. Even if the bottom hole was slightly weaker, which it is not, besides the clamping force the bolts are in shear when the starter is working. If you can shear off 2 M8 and 1 M12 bolts with the starter that you have with an aluminum housing then you need a different mounting system for the starter. It just will not happen. Trash the spacer, drill and tap the hole for a M12 bolt. Just be careful when drilling out the M8 hole so that you keep the center of the hole in the same place. If you do not think that you can do it by hand then use a drill press to re drill the hole. Or step drill the hole with bigger and bigger dia drill bits using the sides of the hole to guide you until you get to the correct size hole for the tap. Gently let the drill pull through the metal and it will guide itself if you do not force it. Don't do it in your lap put the starter in a vise or hold it somehow so that you can use 2 hands to align the drill bit in the right direction. It is not rocket science. I am tearing into my 6.0l for a different reason. It will get a 6.7L starter with a 12mm bolt hole as a side upgrade.
You absolutely can drill and tap it but the majority of the people watching this video will already be struggling to replace their starter and drilling/tapping is not in their wheel house which is why I showed it using a spacer. There are spacers readily available on Amazon. You also can just swap the nose cone of the starter over if your old one is in good shape.
@@InTheShop Isn't that the sad part people struggling to do basic maintenance on their vehicle let alone drilling a hole and turning a tap back and forth straight up and down. Maybe your next vid should show how easy it is to change over the nose cone from the 6.0 to the 6.7L after all how many nose cones, mounting tabs, actually get damaged other than dropping them or some other physical abuse. It is not exactly a wear item. Showing people how to drill and tap a larger hole in a vid should be easier than swapping and monitoring 3 different starters. It might help someone advance their skills some. It sounds like you already have used starters, a good mechanic should have a M12X1.75 tap on hand to chase threads anyway so the cost of the drill and tap kit shouldn't be that much to add them to your set of tools.
@@InTheShop short of drilling and tapping the starter to the 6.0 specs, I know I have to source that specific bolt, but which spacer (specifically) are you referring to on Amazon?
I run a stock 6.0 starter in my 2003 and my cold morning crank to start is always less than 1-1/2 seconds. How long should a 20yr old 6.0 with 322,000 miles take to start? If I needed a new starter I do not believe a faster spinning one would make a significant difference in my cranking time. That being said if the 6.7 L starter cost less and was more reliable I would be inclined to go that route. Thank you for the data.
There's a significant difference in starter quality BIG TIME. Factory OEM, not remanufactured is the way to go. I've found out the hard way on my personal trucks. The factory units, even if used generate more torque and crank the fastest. Faster than a genuine OEM reman as well. Get a low mile take off of a used truck, it's the best for the absolute fastest cranking speeds, which most are after. There some videos about it I'll link you to later. You'll see I'm right on the $.... That video and my experience proves it.
You could drill it out and thread it for the 6.0 bolt size. Most people don’t to avoid voiding the warranty on the starter. As far as a short bolt that’s won’t solve the issue. The hole is too big of a diameter. That bolt is used to help locate the starter so the spacer helps take up that slack.
@@InTheShop Yes thought about that afterwards, warrantee. Instead I used a shorter bolt and used a thick washer to spread the load . 6.7 Starter works better over the 6.4 starter as it sounds like it maintained s rpm better after initial start. Thanks for the informative video.
I've got an 03 f-350 with a 6.0, and it's been burning starter solenoids after the first attempt to start it, or if it doesn't burn up the ground on the solenoid the voltage drop is so severe that I can't get enough cranking rpms to get the start signal from the pcm. I replaced the batteries and same issues. I get a glow plug communication error 😅 and random fault codes that never seem to actually be at fault 🙃. This is my first diesel, and I love the damn thing, but it's kicking my ass.....
Hey I have a quick question...I have a no start situation where as the starter is not engaging...I replaced it and it blew the nose cone off...would that stimulate the truck not responding when the key is turned...gauges come on instrument panel just want turn over...
@@InTheShop before it wouldn't turn over it was running..so I assume it's not..I did look up a couple of vlogs and I was gonnah say hydrolocked but I haven't taken out the glow plugs to test...I came across your video and subscribed instantly due to the starter I was hoping to upgrade..how do you fell about xd hi torque starters or just a simple oem 6.4 or 6.7
@@InTheShop I'll probably try new batteries and 6.4 starter 08 yr cause thinking back I'm not sure if the both of my batteries where fully charged...like you mentioned in your vlog check that 1st and I neglected to do so...I'll keep in touch tho...I'll appreciate your help I've reached out to several and don't get a response....but from your vlogs you are a stand up guy 1k thanks....
Nice. I think batterys and their connections (especially grounds) are too often overlooked. Something that most folks don't realize is that they can show good voltage, but have high internal resistance and not supply the necessary amperage. Loved the supersized tools ! Tip to try not break that solenoid stud or any bolt...gently try to tighten first, then loosen. If it still won't easily loosen...put some mild vibration to it...hammer on a wrench, impact, air ratchet, air chisel, etc...similar to what you did knocking the tie rod ends loose. Where just brute strength would just snap the fastener, a little finesse will get the job done.
A healthy electrical system all start and ends with the batteries. A massively overlooked item. Having a little patience with that stud can definitely help. Sometimes they are so bad they are beyond saving though. Thank you so much for watching and thank you for the extra tips. My goal has always been to teach people but also learn along the way.
I have 2005 6.0 I want to do the 6.7 upgrades How would I order that on line? because its 2005 6.0 Do I just ask for a 6.7 Starter does the year make a difference? Thank you Love your videos
I havnt tested them against each other but the 7.3 starter spins pretty slow. Allegedly you can bolt the 7.3 starter nose cone to a 6.7 starter and it will spin over at 6.7 speed. I’ve never tried it though.
@@InTheShop ive done it. Best cranking 7.3 you ever saw, also some poor bastard on the side of the road putting a starter in is in for a surprise when he tries to install a new 6.7 starter with a 7.3 nose on it that i returned haha.
I've also done the 6.7 starter installed on a 03 7.3 as well. Very fast cranking speeds. Just completed the same on my early 04 6.0 as well. One thing I've learned, there's a significant difference in starter quality and it's wildly all over the place, even with OEM reman units. Factory OEM, not reman spins the fastest of all. It draws more amps, so make sure your batteries are healthy and it'll start faster than most of the upgraded videos. I'll make some videos of both my trucks showing cranking speed and you can hear the difference.
Awesome comparison, really appreciate the fact you showed all 3 turning over the truck. What's the point of locator bushing on the end of the 6.0 starter gear and couldn't the nose cone from the 6.0 just be swapped over to the 6.7? Thanks for the in depth comparison
Hey Giovanni I'm a bit confused with the bushing. I ordered the bushing directly from the videos link, but now I'm thinking it is too long, here are the measurements 8mm id, 12mm OD, 20mm Long. I thought his posted link was the exact size for the bushing, do you think the 20mm is too long? Thanks bud.
You don''t need to disconnect all 4 battery cables to isolate the batteries for testing. If you disconnect 1 of the negative battery cables (either one) then you can check each battery by itself and not loose your radio's memory.
You absolutely can do that. Some people aren’t comfortable or don’t have the tools to drill and tap so the bushing is the easier way. I listed a spacer in the description so sourcing it isn’t a problem.
so just pulled off my starter and the3 hidden bolt was a 13 the one below it was a 12 and the bottom one was a 19!! wtf? Ive owned the truck since it came off the showroom floor so what gives here?
@@InTheShop thanks for the reply man, love your vids, they are very thorough. I got the 6.4 starter installed. all existing bolts fit but was thrown aback with the 3 different size bolt heads. I have done all the upgrades done from ARP head studs, oil deflecting nipple cups, to water filtration and everything in between. Again I do appreciate your vids man. The 6.4 starter is an AMAZING difference
That is absolutely an option. Some people aren’t comfortable doing that or don’t have the right tools so I give the instruction this way. Drilling and tapping will make the starter bolt up like factory.
@@InTheShop thanks for the reply. Question for you, is it possible for the starter to spin without thrusting out to engage the flywheel. Shut my truck off and went to restart it and the starter just spins. Like when the one-way bearing goes out on an ATV or motorcycle.
@@InTheShopthat's what I figured, I'm hoping that once it cools off it'll fire up and I can get it home and I'll do at least the 6.4 upgrade, if the price isn't much more I'll do the 6.7. Thanks for the great comparison of the 3.
I went with the 6.7 starter upgrade.. For ease of use and not modifying the starter housing incase i need to warranty it I didn't drill & tap it to 10mm. I did use a 8mm nut zert as a spacer, dang near perfect fit!
It’s not that simple. 6.7 is a bigger motor so the starter will produce more torque...right? Well...maybe. Compression ratio is a bigger factor than displacement. You could have a bigger motor with lower compression. I’d figure that out first.
@@realistyl absolutely, it spins the over much faster. I saw a video a while back where someone did it and the thing cranked over much faster, but also started a lot easier
The most important factor here is that the 6.7 starter is SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper! Huge upgrade across the board.
6.0 starter $378.18
6.4 starter $523.64
6.7 starter $560.95
How is the 6.7 “significantly cheaper”?
@@swashington942 Be resourceful. Go to to an o'reillys and check the price difference between a motocraft starter for a 6.7 and 6.0. Thank me later.
I just got a 6.7 on rock auto for $89 plus $20 core
You get what you pay for
I did, and the 6.0 is $120 cheaper than the 6.7. That’s at Oreillys and both Motorcraft.
This is a great video with very thoughtful and informative data. I’m a diesel tech and this seals the deal on starters for me
Thanks Alex!
Just swapped a 6.7l starter into my 7.3l with new battery cables... Fastest starting 7.3l I've ever seen. Starts just like a 6.7l but sounds beefier doing it. Totally recommend it
I haven't done the 6.7 swap on a 7.3 yet but I've heard its good. Thanks for watching
So I can not thank you enough. I have a 2003 6.0L I just replaced the starter an hour ago because all it would do is click and I went with your recommended 6.7L starter. All I can say is WOW!!! I always thought my tired truck just started and cranked hard because its got 420,000km but it starts almost instantly now!
Great to hear! Thank you!
What do you do for that third smaller bolt hole? Any info would help because I want to do this! TIA!
Dear sir, I've seen all of your videos, some more than once. I don't even have a big truck to work on. I have a mom mobile, 2005 Honda Odyssey. I watch your videos because you're a great teacher and have truly inspired me to take on my own repairs. Thank you, I appreciate your work.
Thank you so much Rafael. That means the world to me and is the whole reason I make these videos.
First and foremost thank you for the video it makes a tremendous difference when deciding exactly what I was contemplating 3 weeks ago. Newer 6.0 owner and I live in the Dakotas.
I just swapped nose cones. Had to soak it in solvent because 6.leaker. Only took 5 mins to swap over. No drilling/tapping to retain the lower M12 bolt. Bolted up perfectly.
Wow. What a difference. Shoulda done this years ago.
I wasn't sure if I was going to upgrade to the 6.4 or 6.7 on my 6.0 but thanks to the data you presented it'll be the 6.7 starter . Thanks for the video.
Great video! A trick for the top bolt is to remove the wheel well skirt or just wedge it open at the bottom with a 2x4. You will be able to see the top bolt between the swing arm and frame. I broke it loose and used a air ratchet to get it out. Being able to see the hole makes reinstalling a breeze!
I have the 6.4 starter in my 6.0 ...it is great!!
Me too, its a huge improvement
I just put a 6.4 in my 6.0 an hour ago. Awesome!
Great comparison test. Great info about the starter interchange ablity between the 6.0, 6.4, & 6.7.
Another little trick is when installing the upper blind bolt, use a little electrical tape to hold the bolt into the socket. That way as you are trying to “feel” the bolt into its starting thread it will not accidentally fall out of the socket.
Great tip! I usually put the bolt in with my fingertips though. Whatever is easiest for you. Thanks for watching!
This is a great video. Lots of information and enough to really help us know what we should be looking to buy.
I had this thought in the back of my mind. Thanks for taking the time to confirm my thoughts.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for all the info. Answered some questions for me. Ill be going with 6.7 when I upgrade.
Thanks for the lesson, Nathan. I didn't know that the 6.0 starter could be upgraded. You did an awesome data comparison too. This video will be a classic for a long time. Aloha
Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
thx for takin the time for the apples to apples comparison ! great job !
Great how to vid! Thanks for confirming the voltage draw, that was my concern when I hear people talking about making the upgrade, will upgrade to the 6.7 when it’s time for another starter.
thanks for the info, just switched out my stock 6.0 starter with a take off 6.7 starter from a 2017, used the bushing for the lower bolt, install was easy except took some work for the upper bolt, definitely worth the upgrade, seems like the old 6.0 starts in half the time, i can easily see where this would aid winter starting by alot
Awesome! Glad I could help.
You had to use a spacer for the starter is it direct fit?
@@Fordsuperduty6 direct fit
there is a bushing you can use for the smaller lower bolt, but no spacer or shim is needed between the mating surfaces
Fantastic scientific method. Thanks for making our diesel world a better place.
Nathan, gr8 information as usual. My 6.0L starter I have a longer (bottom hole location) bolt that’s a bit longer so I’ve added a nut to the extended threads to keep it from backing out. Blind bolt I’ve removed w/a STUBY 13mm combination wrench (box end). It’s takes a while but if you’re in a comfortable position it’s not a big deal. Thx man, videos keep’m coming. Fran
Thank u very very much 4 taking the time to explain the starters.. why not drill and tap the 6.7 starter to the larger size? I probably would
That is an option. Many people aren’t comfortable doing that so I explain the way that doesn’t require it. Drilling and tapping is definitely a better way.
Great job! Thanks for the hard work! Good tips!
I’m sure you can change that starter blind folded now! That 6.7 is flying!! Gotta upgrade to that soon!!
Great video and detail on the comparison. Also great tips and analysis.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I replaced my starter a year ago with a gear reduction starter. It does the job well but if I would've known this at the time I would've just went with the 6.7. Great video though.
It will be a nice video to do, How to removed the cab on a 6L.
Currently I have no lift at my home garage. Hopefully soon though.
Really great video, very informative. Very helpful. Helps me out to choose a starter. Thanks
Thank you
So I purchased my 6.7 starter only could find a three pack of the bolts but no worries it was 4 bucks. And ordered my expensive wrapped in gold bushing with head. 🤣 it showed up yesterday. Now the bushing can I lightly tap that into the starter bracket or does it need pressed in? Can this be done with a c clamp? Also I have it in my head to blue loctite all three bolts. Lastly Will the stock starter wires be fine long term or should that be an after winter project?
Great Starter comparison video it was very helpful. I will definitely reach for the 6.7 L power stroke starter the next time I replace my 6.0 L power stroke starter. Putting a little spacer for that extra bolt is not that big of a deal. I have a lathe myself I could probably make that out of some aluminum
Love the content brother👍 very helpful🙏
Answered all my questions👌
looking to upgrade my 6.0 starter soon
Glad I could help! Thanks Ryan
That’s a badass 6.0 and very clean and it’s a zf6 which is rare
Wait until you see the ZF6 truck I’m building 😱
In The Shop I have a 6.0 my self but it’s a 06 auto crew cab sb Harley Davidson Editon that’s black with gray flames on a leveling kit on some 20x9 Cali Off-road Twisted wrapped in 35x12.5 crosswind MTs
It has no rust or anything on it
My question, I installed f250 6.0 ecm o ecu 🧐 anyways on my f350 6.0. Now would that effect the fuel sending unit or the fuel gage, reason is because it reads empty or full ???
It shouldn't unless you used the wrong year PCM
I have 2006 f350 6.0 One time I plug the scan and it shows that I an f250 I haven’t ck the year 😐
What difference does the “snout” make? Does it make it mount up differently? It would seem like they wouldn’t line up right
Do you know the dimensions of the spacer needed for the manual transmission?
@ In The Shop
Quick Question
I just purchased a 6.4 with no starter and when I installed a new starter and hooked up a battery the starter started clicking/tapping until disconnected. Because I couldn't see the 2 large studs could the clicking be because I hooked the power cable to the wrong stud?
Thanks
Great video. Right to the point.
Thanks for watching!
I have 2 new batteries, I went through 3 starters on my 6.0 powerstroke within 6 months. bought it from autozone with a lifetime warranty. I wanted to take it to my local guy to rebuild it, but he wouldn't get to it for few days and I needed the truck to go to work. can you tell me if it's the autozone starter or something else is wrong. my powerstroke engine rebuilt recently with approximately 5I miles on it.
Is the bushing listed in the description from McMaster the exact size (8mm ID, 12mm OD, 20mm long) needed for the 6.7 starter or does that bushing also need “adjustment”? I’m looking for a bushing that will drop right in. Great Video and very helpful, Thank You....
I typically make them when I need them so I don't know for sure but I looked it up based on the exact dimensions I make mine to. Unfortunately I don't know how much the listed part deviates from the listed measurements.
Thanks for the lesson. Much appreciated..
Great video. I just did mine successfully! Thanks!
Great comparison 👍😁
Thanks Dave
Great job and a very sharp 6.0.. 👍
Such a good video. I’m doing this upgrade on my 07 6.0. Would it be possible to use small washers instead of a sleeve for that third bolt on the 6.7 starter? It seems like it will work. Your tips are very much appreciated. Thanks from Canada!!!!
FYI. I just upgraded to the 6.7 starter last week. Job done. Thanks to all your tips, this job was a breeze. Had truck over a pit at our shop, so doing it from underneath was very easy. And what a difference in cranking! Starts with authority now. lol
Well done, big help, thanks
No problem 👍
Great video!
What size wheel and tire package is that? Offset?
sweet truck really enjoy your videos thanks
Glad you like them! Thanks Tracy
Hey let me ask if you don't mind I have a 2004 6.0 super duty I have done put the the fuel pump on under the driver seat done a little better but still after a while driving like it didn't get no fuel it was like a fuel can pull over and wait a minute or two get a crank up and go back down the until it does it again somebody said he had a second fuel where would it be located and do you have any information that I can used in case is not the fuel pump
Is the truck a pickup or a cab and chassis?
No I made it here because somewhere in RUclips but thought it was a great idea
Great video! Thanks!
Were all these motorcraft brands or aftermarket?
Do you think you have enough metal to drill and tap the hole on the 6.7 starter and used the same bolts ?
I have never tried it but there is plenty of meat there. The biggest thing is making sure its centered because that bolt aligns the starter.
That's exactly what I plan on doing!
So I need the starter plate from the 6.7?
That big ratchet at the end isn’t too far off from what the torque wrench looks like doing head studs lol! Bigger the wrench the easier the job is!
Where's that wire from that you use to crank the engine from under the hood?
On the passenger side fender there is a single wire with a round connector. If you follow it, it is loomed in with the large positive cable that goes down to the starter.
Nice work man
Thank you!
Thanks Great video love your channel.
Thank you!
that "snout " only really only found on aftermarket starters .. I've never seen a OEM one that has it ... from what I have been able to gather .. the 6.7 and 6.4 starters have less reduction so they do crank Faster but have less "cranking torque" according to published starter specs
The 6.7L starter is the way to go in your 6.0L. I can't believe that you took the time to make a spacer for the M8 bolt. I have seen the same thing in other vids about changing a 6.0l starter for a 6.7L and using a spacer. Some even used plastic for the spacer. Back in the day they used to teach basic metal working such as how to drill a hole in metal, how to tap threads in metal, and how to repair damaged threads in High School as a matter of course. Nowadays if you can count to 10 on your fingers you are good to go.
Great testing without making us suffer through all of the starter changing.
You DO NOT NEED THE SPACER. The 6.0 bottom bolt is a M12X1.75X40 bolt. The 6.7 bottom bolt is a M8X1.25X40mm bolt. Looking at your three starters the 6.0l, 6.4l, 6.7l ALL use the same flange for each starter. The difference between a M12 bolt dia and a M8 bolt dia is 0.157 of an inch. divide that by 2 you get 0.0785 or slightly more than 1/16 of an inch on any side of the larger bolt. The meat is the same on the 6.0 and 6.7L flange, 1/16 of an inch difference in the bolt hole sizes is not important. Just take a drill and tap kit for a M12X1.75 bolt. carefully drill out the 8MM hole with the tap drill, take the tap and cut new M12X1.75 threads in the cleaned out hole. Now use your old 6.0L bottom bolt in the newly tapped hole to direct bolt in your 6.7L starter. The tap and die kit is $12-$18 dollars or so about twice the cost of a new bolt but definitely cheaper than making/sourcing a spacer that is not as good as the original 12MM bolt would be. It is not any different than if the threads were damaged and you had to install a larger size bolt to repair the starter.
The bolts provide clamping force as their main function. The secondary function of the bolts is to hold the starter in the more or less correct location so that the pinion teeth align with the flywheel teeth. Even if the bottom hole was slightly weaker, which it is not, besides the clamping force the bolts are in shear when the starter is working. If you can shear off 2 M8 and 1 M12 bolts with the starter that you have with an aluminum housing then you need a different mounting system for the starter. It just will not happen.
Trash the spacer, drill and tap the hole for a M12 bolt. Just be careful when drilling out the M8 hole so that you keep the center of the hole in the same place. If you do not think that you can do it by hand then use a drill press to re drill the hole. Or step drill the hole with bigger and bigger dia drill bits using the sides of the hole to guide you until you get to the correct size hole for the tap. Gently let the drill pull through the metal and it will guide itself if you do not force it. Don't do it in your lap put the starter in a vise or hold it somehow so that you can use 2 hands to align the drill bit in the right direction. It is not rocket science.
I am tearing into my 6.0l for a different reason. It will get a 6.7L starter with a 12mm bolt hole as a side upgrade.
You absolutely can drill and tap it but the majority of the people watching this video will already be struggling to replace their starter and drilling/tapping is not in their wheel house which is why I showed it using a spacer. There are spacers readily available on Amazon. You also can just swap the nose cone of the starter over if your old one is in good shape.
@@InTheShop
Isn't that the sad part people struggling to do basic maintenance on their vehicle let alone drilling a hole and turning a tap back and forth straight up and down.
Maybe your next vid should show how easy it is to change over the nose cone from the 6.0 to the 6.7L after all how many nose cones, mounting tabs, actually get damaged other than dropping them or some other physical abuse. It is not exactly a wear item.
Showing people how to drill and tap a larger hole in a vid should be easier than swapping and monitoring 3 different starters. It might help someone advance their skills some. It sounds like you already have used starters, a good mechanic should have a M12X1.75 tap on hand to chase threads anyway so the cost of the drill and tap kit shouldn't be that much to add them to your set of tools.
@@InTheShop short of drilling and tapping the starter to the 6.0 specs, I know I have to source that specific bolt, but which spacer (specifically) are you referring to on Amazon?
@@InTheShopWhere can I find the info on sourcing needed bolt size and spacer size? Thank you
(6.0 2003 F250)
@ here’s a link to a kit on Amazon
amzn.to/401gqwe
Good stuff, man!
I run a stock 6.0 starter in my 2003 and my cold morning crank to start is always less than 1-1/2 seconds. How long should a 20yr old 6.0 with 322,000 miles take to start? If I needed a new starter I do not believe a faster spinning one would make a significant difference in my cranking time. That being said if the 6.7 L starter cost less and was more reliable I would be inclined to go that route. Thank you for the data.
There's a significant difference in starter quality BIG TIME. Factory OEM, not remanufactured is the way to go. I've found out the hard way on my personal trucks. The factory units, even if used generate more torque and crank the fastest. Faster than a genuine OEM reman as well.
Get a low mile take off of a used truck, it's the best for the absolute fastest cranking speeds, which most are after. There some videos about it I'll link you to later. You'll see I'm right on the $.... That video and my experience proves it.
What is the spacer for, couldn't you drill out the bottom bolt hole and tread it. Or shorter bolt!
You could drill it out and thread it for the 6.0 bolt size. Most people don’t to avoid voiding the warranty on the starter. As far as a short bolt that’s won’t solve the issue. The hole is too big of a diameter. That bolt is used to help locate the starter so the spacer helps take up that slack.
@@InTheShop Yes thought about that afterwards, warrantee. Instead I used a shorter bolt and used a thick washer to spread the load . 6.7 Starter works better over the 6.4 starter as it sounds like it maintained s rpm better after initial start. Thanks for the informative video.
I've got an 03 f-350 with a 6.0, and it's been burning starter solenoids after the first attempt to start it, or if it doesn't burn up the ground on the solenoid the voltage drop is so severe that I can't get enough cranking rpms to get the start signal from the pcm. I replaced the batteries and same issues. I get a glow plug communication error 😅 and random fault codes that never seem to actually be at fault 🙃. This is my first diesel, and I love the damn thing, but it's kicking my ass.....
Glow plug module is known to cause issues when if it craps out
Great video well done :)
Thank you!
So for the 6.7 starter all you need is that bolt sleeve spacer and the bolt needed and it’ll bolt up perfect?
Yup or if you are comfortable you can drill and tap the starter to match the 6.0 bolt hole size
@@InTheShop does it matter weather you get the sleeve spacer with the flange or no?
@@InTheShop so does the brass spacer act as an impromptu “helicoil” like the new bolt threads the spacer and threads into the original bolt hole.
would you recommend putting a 7.3 starter on a 6.0?😅
How do you feel about gear reduction starters?
The factory starters are gear reduction starters.
Your a great Macanic I wish I could bring you my Jaguars so you can make go faster.
Thanks Sam!
Hey I have a quick question...I have a no start situation where as the starter is not engaging...I replaced it and it blew the nose cone off...would that stimulate the truck not responding when the key is turned...gauges come on instrument panel just want turn over...
Is the motor locked up?
@@InTheShop before it wouldn't turn over it was running..so I assume it's not..I did look up a couple of vlogs and I was gonnah say hydrolocked but I haven't taken out the glow plugs to test...I came across your video and subscribed instantly due to the starter I was hoping to upgrade..how do you fell about xd hi torque starters or just a simple oem 6.4 or 6.7
I haven’t had the chance to try one of the aftermarket style starters
@@InTheShop I'll probably try new batteries and 6.4 starter 08 yr cause thinking back I'm not sure if the both of my batteries where fully charged...like you mentioned in your vlog check that 1st and I neglected to do so...I'll keep in touch tho...I'll appreciate your help I've reached out to several and don't get a response....but from your vlogs you are a stand up guy 1k thanks....
YOU can put 6.7 starter on 7.3. Just CHANGE the HEAD to 7.3 starter.
I haven't personally done that but I have heard that. Thank you for the input!
I just want that truck!
Thanks for watching
Excellent, professional objective comparison video. Liked, subscribed! Keep the first class videos coming👍
Thank you! That means a lot.
Does the 6.7 really fit in the manual 6.0? Seems like mine doesn't seat in all the way
This truck was a manual transmission truck. The starter is exactly the same from on a manual transmission and automatic transmission 6.0
Ok perfect! Bought the bolt and sleeve from Amazon but the bolt was too short. So all I need is the longer bolt correct?
@@ryaneldridge7560 correct. The manual transmission has a longer bolt.
@@InTheShopthank you very much!! You just saved me a big headache. Awesome video and thank you for a quick reply!!
@@InTheShop why would the starter crank as soon as I connect battery? Starter no good?
Nice. I think batterys and their connections (especially grounds) are too often overlooked.
Something that most folks don't realize is that they can show good voltage, but have high internal resistance and not supply the necessary amperage. Loved the supersized tools !
Tip to try not break that solenoid stud or any bolt...gently try to tighten first, then loosen. If it still won't easily loosen...put some mild vibration to it...hammer on a wrench, impact, air ratchet, air chisel, etc...similar to what you did knocking the tie rod ends loose. Where just brute strength would just snap the fastener, a little finesse will get the job done.
A healthy electrical system all start and ends with the batteries. A massively overlooked item. Having a little patience with that stud can definitely help. Sometimes they are so bad they are beyond saving though. Thank you so much for watching and thank you for the extra tips. My goal has always been to teach people but also learn along the way.
Any one know what size the starter bolts size is for a 2004 6.0 f250 I am in desperate need of this info
ZF6 For the win!
My shop truck is a ZF6 too!
whats the lift and wheel/tire specs, that truck just sits perfectly
2" leveled in the front and 22X14 wheels
Nice thanks
No problem!
No problem!
Interesting info.
Glad you liked it
Excellent,,,
I have 2005 6.0 I want to do the 6.7 upgrades How would I order that on line? because its 2005 6.0 Do I just ask for a 6.7 Starter does the year make a difference?
Thank you Love your videos
Order a starter for a 2011 and up 6.7 superduty.
@@InTheShop thank you
How do these compare to a 7.3 starter?
I havnt tested them against each other but the 7.3 starter spins pretty slow. Allegedly you can bolt the 7.3 starter nose cone to a 6.7 starter and it will spin over at 6.7 speed. I’ve never tried it though.
@@InTheShop Interesting. I'll have to look into that. Thx for the tip!
@@InTheShop ive done it. Best cranking 7.3 you ever saw, also some poor bastard on the side of the road putting a starter in is in for a surprise when he tries to install a new 6.7 starter with a 7.3 nose on it that i returned haha.
I've also done the 6.7 starter installed on a 03 7.3 as well. Very fast cranking speeds. Just completed the same on my early 04 6.0 as well.
One thing I've learned, there's a significant difference in starter quality and it's wildly all over the place, even with OEM reman units. Factory OEM, not reman spins the fastest of all. It draws more amps, so make sure your batteries are healthy and it'll start faster than most of the upgraded videos. I'll make some videos of both my trucks showing cranking speed and you can hear the difference.
Thanks bro
Awesome comparison, really appreciate the fact you showed all 3 turning over the truck. What's the point of locator bushing on the end of the 6.0 starter gear and couldn't the nose cone from the 6.0 just be swapped over to the 6.7? Thanks for the in depth comparison
What’s the Part # or year range for the 6.7 Starter? I have a 2004 Ford excursion with 6.0...
2011-2016 is for sure the same. I’m not sure if they changed it in 2017 and will have to do some research.
i used one off a 2017, worked perfectly
What state are you in ?
Massachusetts
Your always surprised when you accidentally arc weld on a starter replacement 😂
That will wake you up that’s for sure.
Newer up pipe bolts are scholdered
100% correct. I should have clarified. The shoulder-less bolts are on the 03-04 6.0
Can you out a 6.0 starter in a 6.4
It will bolt in but it turns slower so I wouldn’t.
bushing 6.0 to 6,7 8mm Bore x 12mm OD x 15mm Long
Hey Giovanni I'm a bit confused with the bushing. I ordered the bushing directly from the videos link, but now I'm thinking it is too long, here are the measurements 8mm id, 12mm OD, 20mm Long. I thought his posted link was the exact size for the bushing, do you think the 20mm is too long? Thanks bud.
@@Kp2Bombero where did you get your bushing and bolt from
where did you get your bushing and bolt from
I wonder if I qualify for a discount 😅
Haha maybe.
You don''t need to disconnect all 4 battery cables to isolate the batteries for testing. If you disconnect 1 of the negative battery cables (either one) then you can check each battery by itself and not loose your radio's memory.
100% correct.
So why couldn't you just drill and tap the 07 starter small bolt hole to 06 size that would be easier than sourcing a spacer
You absolutely can do that. Some people aren’t comfortable or don’t have the tools to drill and tap so the bushing is the easier way. I listed a spacer in the description so sourcing it isn’t a problem.
Very nice video! Are those Motorcraft brand starters?
so just pulled off my starter and the3 hidden bolt was a 13 the one below it was a 12 and the bottom one was a 19!! wtf? Ive owned the truck since it came off the showroom floor so what gives here?
Has the truck ever been in for any major service?
@@InTheShop thanks for the reply man, love your vids, they are very thorough. I got the 6.4 starter installed. all existing bolts fit but was thrown aback with the 3 different size bolt heads. I have done all the upgrades done from ARP head studs, oil deflecting nipple cups, to water filtration and everything in between.
Again I do appreciate your vids man. The 6.4 starter is an AMAZING difference
On the 6.7 upgrade, why not just drill and tap that smaller 3rd hole to the OEM 6.0 bolt spec.
That is absolutely an option. Some people aren’t comfortable doing that or don’t have the right tools so I give the instruction this way. Drilling and tapping will make the starter bolt up like factory.
@@InTheShop thanks for the reply. Question for you, is it possible for the starter to spin without thrusting out to engage the flywheel.
Shut my truck off and went to restart it and the starter just spins. Like when the one-way bearing goes out on an ATV or motorcycle.
@@firemann3295 yup that happens when the bendix in the starter fails
@@InTheShopthat's what I figured, I'm hoping that once it cools off it'll fire up and I can get it home and I'll do at least the 6.4 upgrade, if the price isn't much more I'll do the 6.7.
Thanks for the great comparison of the 3.
I went with the 6.7 starter upgrade.. For ease of use and not modifying the starter housing incase i need to warranty it I didn't drill & tap it to 10mm. I did use a 8mm nut zert as a spacer, dang near perfect fit!
6.7 psd ftw. Less expensive than the 6.4 also more readily available. Duralast 6696N.
It’s not that simple. 6.7 is a bigger motor so the starter will produce more torque...right? Well...maybe. Compression ratio is a bigger factor than displacement. You could have a bigger motor with lower compression. I’d figure that out first.
6.4 was 209 rpm
7.3 Powerstroke starter on a 6.0
does it work nice ?
I am tempting to switch it to a 7.3
@@realistyl absolutely, it spins the over much faster. I saw a video a while back where someone did it and the thing cranked over much faster, but also started a lot easier