6.0 high pressure oil leak diag and repair
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- In this video we will show you an in depth look at diagnosing and repairing high pressure oil leaks on the 6.0 ford diesel. Symptoms of a high pressure oil leak can be Crank no start, No start while hot, or extended crank time. I tried to be as thorough as possible but if you have any questions feel free to leave a comment
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Im in reno nv. Im working on a 6.0. Power stroke. I do not know much about these engines. But your videos just become perfect. To my job. Thanks
This guy is the closest to Diesel Tech Ron...
Thank you!
Rt.on I miss him dearly he was the man .RIP Ron but I'm grateful we got this young fella that cares to help
Agree 100%
He's very thorough. Awesome tech that takes time to explain very clearly and accurately.
Your comment is definitely accurate. Ron would be proud to see this young man taking time to help others just like he did.
Rest easy Mr. Huxell.
As a mechanic of over 30 years of gas and diesel.... Great job! very thorough, in depth explanations, and professional work! Nice!
Thank you! I try hard to make videos that can help everyone.
@@InTheShop Wassup, I have a 2005 Ford F-350, I have updated my dummy plugs, stand pipes and also the fitting on my HPOP.
I've also had orings replaced on my nipple cup seals and sometimes (not every time) when I go somewhere and I shut the truck off and when I try to start the truck it just spins over but doesn't start. I think the problem that's causing this issue is leaking from the nipple cup seals, also I'm aware of nipple cup seals still leaking after replacing the orings. What do you think the issue could be?
Maurice, have you tried doing the air test? Sometimes you have to pull the valve covers and just listen very closely.
@@InTheShop No, I haven't done the air test yet. I have to purchase the setup to perform the test.
@@mauricematthews5065 Hey, I know it’s been awhile. But, did you figure out what the problem was?
I have updated plugs and stand pipes as well as a new HPOP with updated STC fitting and I have a leak somewhere.
I have yet to do all the steps in this video for lack of money and the tools.
Thanks a lot man. I just replaced my head gaskets and studded the truck, replaced the stand pipes but I still have a leak. I'll be air testing the truck tomorrow and hopefully can diagnose it and get it back on the road. I really enjoy how you do your videos. A good mix of information, showing how its done, and what problems to look out for.
Great work on this video!
I like the tight shots, explanations, visuals on tools and parts.
Thank you! Trying hard to bring the best content I’m able to. There is a lot of great info on RUclips that unfortunately is hard to watch do to poor quality. I’m trying to do both.
I have a mysterious oil leak in my 2006 e350 6.0 and this video was very very helpful! Can’t afford to take it to a shop so this video gave me some much needed direction. Thanks dude!
Nathan, great video as usual. I have an early 03 6.0 and it’s great you provide information on the early 6.0 and the later 6.0. I’m a shade tree mechanic but all your video’s break down the process into layman’s terms. Lots of O rings w/diesel motor and I’ve incorporated the AR9100 into my oil changes. Have had great success w/the additive and 6.0 runs MUCH smoother w/the AR9100. Thanks for taking the time to do your videos, much appreciated. Keep’m coming. Fran
Dude awesome job on the video. The quality is amazing.
Great video. Very professional. Clean, tidy work space. Good job.
Great video! I had oil rail on and off 6 times and was suspecting oil leak at top injector oring so i put a dummy plug in place of stand pipe to isolate that bank. It worked like a charm no need to energize ipr
Also a great trick if you want to narrow it down to one bank! Thank you for watching!
Hey I was a Ford diesel tech for years and worked on tons of these. Awesome well explained video!!
Nathan, Good stuff! I purchased a 2004 Ford F350 Lariat from a man dying of cancer. He bought this lariat 350 6.0 new, and it sat for 14 years, knowing he was dying. I just bought it with 21,500 original miles. It's perfect. I changed the air filter; it was perfect, I changed the transmission fluid and filter, which Ended up being perfect; I changed the fuel filters, which were a little dirty, changed the oil, which was a little dirty, replaced all with OEM parts. Did install two new 1000 cranking amp interstate batteries. He changed the tires to new Michelin LTX E-rated tires too. It is so smooth; however, sometimes I've noticed that when I'm driving at a low speed, it will sound like a normal diesel, then flutter between the normal diesel sound, then get muffled/real quiet. It happened today and when It got quiet, I hit the gas and it didn't do anything.(no response/ bog/ like no detonation) I let off the gas and it puffed out some smoke as it went back to the diesel sound. I was thinking it was the vanes in the turbo, but it runs too smooth other times. I did replace the EGR valve and it was really dirty, didn't make a difference though as it got quiet again. Have you experienced this? The engine sounding like a normal diesel, then getting real quiet? It will flutter between these two sounds. When it gets quiet, it has no power. I'm wondering if it's not getting fuel to the injectors, or maybe a high-pressure oil switch. Thanks for any help. I was going to open up the turbo to make sure the vanes and unison ring weren't sticking, but I just think that's it. I will be bulletproofing this motor and didn't want to tear into the engine until I bulletproof it and do it all at once. I will be doing the blue spring upgrade next.
Last question, Bulletproofing, I looked at bulletproofdiesels air to oil cooler and then I watched the video you did with the IPR bulletproof, which system do you like better? I kind of like the coolant to oil System better. Thanks again, keep up the great work.
Did you figure this out
@@garyfarrow3101 No, I thought it it was the EGR, but a friend of mine said that he thinks it is the variable ring in the turbo sticking. When the motor is hot, it never happens. Only when it is colder. It's almost like it sounds like a normal diesel, but then it get real quiet. when its cooler, it sometimes is non responsive when you press the gas. Im going to take out the turbo and make sure the unison ring isnt sticking. The truck sat for a very long time. Thanks for the reply, any thoughts?
I have never written a comment before,this is my first. And no I’m not 8years old,far far from it. Thanks for the great 6.0 content. I own an 04 excursion and need all the knowledge I can get. You are the Canadian “dieseltech Ron .
Thanks Greg! I really appreciate that. I’m from Massachusetts though. Diesel tech Ron was great RIP
Nathan, Much appreciation for your expertise and effort going into all your vids. It's refreshing to see someone that takes pride in your work ( on and off screen). Like most, I have a problem I'd like you to comment on. Mine is very specific and probably at the root of what plagues many 6.0 owners with long crank hot/cold situations. I am struggling with oil drainback from the filter housing. This is being caused by the anti-drainback valve, nothing else. I've changed the drainback valve, passed an air leak test with energized IPR, OE filter/cap etc. As you know, this valve operates on gravity alone to seal, but as many owners experience, I loss all oil in the filter housing after 16-24 hours. I've only seen a suggested remedy of replacing the oil filter adapter 3C3Z 6881CA. Inspecting the rubber washers on both the drainback and bypass valves shows little if any wear. There are no gouges in the sealing lips on the housing itself. My question is this, do you see any issues with adding an extremely light spring around the valve barrel and the valve housing to get better sealing pressure. Another option might be to lightly lap the lip surfaces for a better seal. Or has anyone came up with a better means to solve this? I see so many posts on this root cause (where ppl think it's just the non-OE cap/filter) but never are they fully explaining a solution. Would be great to hear your input. Thanks so much!
What year is the truck?
Thanks for getting back on this. It's an 05. Since my previous note, I have polished the anti-drain back port on the filter housing with a fine scotchbrite buff on a dremel tool. I also just got a new OEM adapter plate and both for the cast ports have a rougher finish than what I have in the vehicle. So, I've installed the new bypass valve/ anti drain back valve in the truck. I have also plugged the drain back valve port with a silicone plug, so this cannot leak. It is much improved, but it's still leaking down. I can't imagine it's the bypass valve with all that spring pressure. Looking for any ideas here. Thanks Nathan
I'm just getting to watch this now and I love it. Very knowledgeable.
Thank you!
Dude you explained everything clear and simple.
well job i have been in the industy for years now and your video is one of the best i have seen here ever
Thank you!
Hey man, I noticed the accent, I'm from the south shore. Im a Plymouth firefighter, and a former diesel mechanic for Cummins Northeast in Dedham. Awesome vid! Thanks it helped me a lot.
Thanks man! Yeah I’m from southern mass. Near Fallriver. Glad the video helped! Thank you for watching.
Great video! My excursion shut down one day, got down to the fitting on the HPOP and found a torn oring on the fitting. Put it back together with a new fitting and oring and still no start. Just did the air test and large amount of air coming from both sides, pulled one valve cover so far and found the oil rail oring leaking. Wish I watched this video before making the first repair! Good stuff
Awesome!
Right on man I did just that and found out which ejector was thank you it's running like a champ now
Glad I could help!
awesome video ! very explicit and detailed,good job dude!
Thanks Antonino! I'm working hard to create good videos for all of you.
Awesome! Tons of useful info in this video. Thank you!
Great video, thanks for the detailed info. My '05 6.0 was running great on a recent trip pulling my camper then I stopped for fuel in Tennessee and it wouldn't start. Scan tool showed only 167lbs of hp. Only had a few tools with me so hooked up with a local shop that immediately replaced the hpop. :( The truck starts now when cold but not when warm. The shop claims the new hpop finished the job of blowing standpipe seals. I had to get home so I just went with this info and made it back to CO. $3000 later and I still have to work on my own truck! Thanks for giving me enough info to get moving on this project!
Was it the ipr?
@@daniellucateroofficial4041 The stand pipes were fine but 2 injectors were leaking along with other minor leaks. apparently after replacing the hp oil pump a few other "compromised" parts started failing. Nothing another $2000 couldn't fix!. As a friend of mine with a shop says, " 6 liter , $6000) Truck runs fine now but I'll never fully trust it!
About to tear into my early 04 high pressure system soon. Great video
This was very helpful and clearly and fully explained - thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
thanks to in the shop, he nailed my issue over a month ago, and i tore into the engine anyhow cause ut has 200k miles and needed lots of maintenance to make it last another 200k, but he said, sounds like the hpop lost the little ball (oil pressure on dash goes to 0 after 10 minute warm up, truck gets harder and harder to start). HE NAILED IT. specific to 2003 2004 with the older round pump fyi. THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT I.T.S.
BTW i never wanted to LEARN anything about this truck, its my moms, but her shop was going to start by pulling the base oil pressure sender, and i was like, what does that have to do with hard restart when hot ??? so, i was forced to bring it home, learn from the internet, and fix it. yay me
This is awesome to hear! I'm glad it fixed your problem!
Awesome video and tips as well your theory .
Thankyou for taking time for making this tutorial . From oxnard California
Thanks Julio!
you are amazing...
saved me from buying another engine.
Great to hear! Thanks Bill
Great job on the shop i like the way you explained God Bless you
Outstanding! Well spoken, to the point at a good pace. Should help me keep Big Blue's 6.0L on the road for another 100k or 2. Thank you!
OBTW, the white 'washer' on the standpipes are called o-ring backups.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Really well done video. Many thanks
Wonderful video, thanks so much! ❤
All I can said man is thank you save me time and money much appreciated.
Awesome! I love hearing this.
Your the man thanks for your skills they are very appreciate Wayne from Bay City Michigan
You are really good. I HATE DIESEL…..why cause i dont know it. This video intrigued me so now i want to know more about diesel stuff 😂. You explained this very good so i subcribed cause now im hooked. Thank you very much.
Thanks Juan! Glad I inspired you!
The video was very helpful thank you keep doing what you doing
Thank you!
Good job man, I am really proud of you for starting this channel !!!
Thank you Nathan! And thank you for motivating me to do this.
Great video! Help save a ton of diagnoses headaches! My truck thanks you too...
Great to hear!
Always very informative Thanks bro!
Any time!
Thanks alot that help me out to understand more on my 06 E-350 no start I thank oil pressure related problems.
Thanks for watching! Hopefully this helps you find your issue.
Hay Nathan,
Thanks for a GREAT video, I think I have high pressure oil leak in my 2006 6.0. I'll be using your video for reference, again thanks as I know how much time it takes to create and edit these type of videos. Just subbed to your channel.
Thank you!!!
Nice work, keep it up!
Thank you
You are a great tech. I have learned a lot from you
Thank you!
Thanks man simple and gets right into it
Thank you!
Excellent video
thanks so much "In the Shop" been dealing with a very small leak on the high oil side, been only getting 460 psi while cranking but all this info makes me feel like ill find the problem tomorrow... thanks so much for some of the best videos on youtube, you gained a new subscriber
Great video!
Thanks!! Good video, very helpful!!
Thank you!
Excellent explanation man thanks to you
Thank you!
Great job. Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks for your videos
Awesome video thanks for the info 👍
Mighty2ThaMax thank you for watching!
Awesome man! I replaced my right 4 injectors and now I get a double start. Almost normal followed by the ferocious 6.0 start that comes after a repair. Happens cold start every time. I'm thinking injector o-ring or slight high pressure oil leak on the right bank. Thanks for the tips. I'm going back in tomorrow. Bubble test then this test. Kinda.. 03
Good video. Right in the middle of this mess in my driveway.
Great video! 👍🏻
Thank you!
Beautiful beautiful beautiful beautiful video, tank you so much very helpful thank you so much.
Thank you Joselos!
Thanks was very helpful
Awesome video
You are a refreshing profesional very nice videos
Thank you William!
Thanks bro for your help
Good content. Helped a lot to have the engine out of the truck where we could see
Thank you for watching! I'm glad you liked it.
Wonderful video. Thanks
Thank you!
Great info. Thanks
Great video,thank you
Thank you!
Great info thank you.
thank you brother good info
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
Thank you it helps a lot!!
Glad it helped!
I liked your video so much that out of all the people posting 6.0 oln youtube, i chose you to ask my question, lucky you :)
2004 f350 suddenly developed a problem after a 400 mile trip delivering a load of hay.
check gauges light is on at idle and oil pressure shows no oil pressure, increase throttle to 800-900 rpm and light goes out and oil pressure returns.
truck drives fine, here is more detail on what i have observed.
cold start in the morning and there is no low oil problem, until engine runs 10 minutes, then the pressure gauge drops and check gauge lite comes on, engine idles at 650 at this point, and increasing rpm to 750 makes lite go out and pressure come up, after you drive a little and it gets hotter, you have to increase rpm a little higher to make lite go out, about 850 rpm.
i also noticed that when warmed up, if you turn the truck off, if you try to restart with no pressure on the accelerator, you have to do it within 4 minutes, or else you have to goose the throttle.
in the morning starting out cold, you have to goose the throttle to get it started up.
if you wait longer than 4 minutes to restart when hot, then it will fire up with no pressure on accelerator then cut right off again, the next restart attempt requires you to use the throttle.
so i am assuming it has a small oil leak in the high pressure system, but only when the oil is hot, which means any testing i try to do will have to be with a hot engine ?
since its a 2004 that is stock, its my moms truck, is there anywhere specific i should start looking that may be 2004 specific ? based on my observations that is only leaks when warmed up, runs fine, will restart at idle for up to 4 minutes after shutdown when warm ?
or could it be possibly anywhere everywhere and a full diagnostic attack is needed ?
THANKS
The 2004 high pressure oil pumps were very common to have a small steal ball bearing fall out of them that was pressed into place to block off a manufacturing passageway. The way you are describing your problem that seems like it may be what you have going on.
Send me an email at nathan@intheshopmedia.com and I can send you a picture of what I mean.
@@InTheShop thank you so much for your reply,
The trucks in the shop now and i dont feel good about it, they are going for the oil sensor if that tells you why i am concerned.
i only just now saw your reply, about 4 hours after i rewatched one of your videos and picked up on the ball bearing. here is my question, this is a 2004 1/2 truck made in mar 2004, would this truck still have had that ball bearing ?
If it would not have had that ball, the pump was replaced a few years ago, could they have taken an early 2004 pump and put it in my late 2004 and then this caused the problem, or will a early 2004 2003 pump not fit in a late 2004
Are there other failures that can cause the low/no oil pressure at idle after warmup and hard starting, like an ipr that is stuck open ?
monday morning i am going to tell them to open the valley and look at the pump, to see if it is the early pump or if it has the snap in place connector.
THANKS
trac nunya they should be able to tell if it’s the old style pump or new style pump without taking anything apart. The old style pump has a completely cast iron cover and the pump is completely covered. The new style pump has an aluminum cover and part of the pump protrudes out of the center of the cover.
@@InTheShop thanks, ill let you know what we find out
Liked and subscribed!
Bud thanks for your time and doing this video. Today while hammering down on her getting on the interstate I thought I ran over a wet spot in the road but then noticed a fuel smell real bad. When I got home I noticed the Driver side was slick and under the truck from the drivers side motor bay to the frame rail where the fuel pump and filter is. Was wet but it was more oily. It’s a 05 6.0. Do you have a direction I should look. Thanks
excellent video
Thank you!!
good yob taks for the info profetional job
Good video 👍
Glad you enjoyed
great video!!!!!
Thank you!
Very intuitive and technical. Much appreciated great video and channel .
Thank you!
Have an 05 F350. When it's cold it starts but dies immediately when it warms up. Replaced ice and ipr, injectors too. Replaced dummy plugs and the tube. What's another common problem? Thanks for your time and the video.
Wow. Thank you very much for this video. I have a problem with my 2006 International Schoolbus with a VT365 Diesel Engine. It cranks when it is cold and it does not when it is warm. So these things you were showing are the things i am going to try first. I paid a workshop about 4000 Dollar and they did not find the issue. I just had to learn the hard way that sometimes it is better to do it by your own. But that would not be possible if you were not making those perfect videos. So thank you very much and i will keep you updatet if your video solved the problem!
Thanks Dennis! That Means a lot to me. Hopefully this helps you find out whats wrong. I'm looking forward to hearing what you found.
@@InTheShop Hi. So I tried to fix everything you mentioned in this video and the last thing I had to do was to change the oil pan (upper and lower) gasket because I think it is leaking. Then I have seen that one of the inboard main bearing cap bolts is just broken. So I have to change this. But also I found some crazy metal stuff in the oil pick up tube. I made some pictures and I would like to ask you if you have an idea what it could be. Could you check my pictures via what's app or however you we ant it. Would be really nice if you could help me. I am a little concerned now 🙄. Happy to hear from you.
Dennis
@@dennismike89 you can send them to my email address nathan@intheshopmedia.com
@@InTheShop ok. I sent you an email. Thanks !
My 6.0 is failing to start intermittenly, this video has brought some issues to my attention. I can speak with knowledge to my diesel mechanic and make a couple of suggestions, hopefully without offending him. I have had this 04 6.0 E-450 in his shop on 3 separate occasions, lots of money, and lots of new parts. But most aggrevating this 6.0 (Which has been Bullitproofed about 37K miles ago), still gets me in a no start situation at least 5-6 times per week. Now I can ask what his diagnosis is and I will know how to respond to his answers. Thank You.
Thanks for watching James! Glad I could help.
very helpful
Thanks for watching Joseph!
When you're finished with that job did you have to get the air out of the ICP sensor ( bleed the air out of ICP sensor) ?
This is crazy! You've been out for a month and got 702 views. Why only 114 subs though?
Not sure why only 114 subs. Maybe because I only have a few videos at this point. Working on that now. I think the high view count is because its a popular subject to search for.
In The Shop I’m already up to 21 subs in a week, but I have about 60 view count on the big vids. I need to say like/subscribe more. You don’t pay for advertising?
Aggressive Design I link my RUclips channel on my facebook and instagram
Nice video. FYI - The late 04's did not have the failure prone STC fitting that is corrected w/ the one-piece fitting w/ jam nut. That was in the 05's and up.
Thanks Mark! As far as the pump goes the new style was used in 2004 after a certain production date. 2003-early2004 had the round aluminum pump with the cast iron cover. Late build 2004 mostly came with the cast iron pump with the aluminum cover and had the STC
You are right, International did change the HPOP to the cast iron one in late 04. It had higher capacity due to the wavy oil rail "upgrade", but the STC wasn't introduced at that time. It came w/ the 05. It makes 04 a mix of configurations. Anyway, not meaning to argue, just to share what comes directly from International.
I didn’t take it as arguing at all. I know a lot but I also still always have a lot to learn and talking with other knowledgeable people is the best way to expand that knowledge. The 2004 is a giant mixed bag of afterthoughts and last minute changes. In my opinion the worst year.
Fault tracing my '03 6.0 now. Air test tomorrow.
How did you make out?
I think this is the problem with my truck oil is leaking like a sive from the back of the motor when it's on the ground (level). I did an egr delete a few months back, and then I started having this problem out of the blue. I thought the oil was coming from the oil cooler but I think it's coming from the back right or left valve cover. I'm going to do this weekend and see what happens. Thanks again for this video. I'd rather take advice from a Yankee then some hellbelly who says he knows it all (you know who I'm talking about) lol
Hi Greg, it seems like you have an external oil leak not a high pressure oil leak. I just recently made a video about finding external oil leaks. I hope it helps.
love ur videos, i do have a question, tech ron always had mentioned not to ever change the o rings on the oil rail? any reason i’m why?
Thanks a million
Glad you found it helpful.
this is Will Witt i have done everything to this truck but still cant get it right . history truck ran great over 90,000 on rebuild bullet proof motor. broke a injector tip maybe water, sent it off to industrial injector they checked it out replaced nozzle they said it was fine. I had another injector where the spool was sticking so I on other side took it apart used 600 sandpaper and got it to move freely. I changed my oil added marvel oil . put it all back together and it started right up . went for a test drive seemed fine came home turned it off no start.
cooled off started right up. as soon as it heats up no start.. i have replaced everything all new ford tube and dummy plugs, new no leak cups nipples, got seals from industrial for injectors replaced them changed oil checked oil fill in filter when cracking. but oil pressure gauge shows oil then doesn't took off icp wire cen get it to start hpop pressure 2800 icp about 30 i'm at a total loss HELP.
Hi Will, these can be tricky sometimes. Have you tried doing the air test while the truck is hot?
@@InTheShop thanks for replying, I have done everything yes hot before I did cups and seals saw oil coming out under rail by injectors. My scan tool only showed one code low Icp, i put on a new ICP connector. took it all down to the HPOP and redid all seals and cleaned IPR even though it was cleaned tested to make sure it moved. I just don't get it. I completely rebuild this from scratch put 90,000.00 miles on it had that injector now just can't figure it out.
Do you know anything about the updated dummy plug kits from Swag Performance? Or should I just get the updated ones from Motorcraft?
EXCELLENT
Thanks for watching Hank
Exclent video
Thanks Dana!
Hello, I have question , on how to energize the IPR using a scan tool, , thanks so much, hope to here back
I’m chasing a high pressure oil leak I’ve rebuilt from ground up 06 6.0. Can the plugs on the bottom leak. I’ve replaced the nipple cup orings and injector top seals also the icp sensor voltage on the money and the ipr moves with snap on scanner I’m stumped
About 3000 miles ago, I replaced the HPOP, and also, the dummy plugs and stand pipes, and oil rail nipples and seals, Now i have a crank no start, cold or hot, it did fire once to get it hot and i took it for a drive test only to have a no start when i got home, ran great on the road, i notice the low side seams to take a bit to build up but the oil gauge in the truck rises like it should, ok with all the history, thanks for reading, im not sure where i should start first, remembering back when i put the HPOP cover back on, im wondering if i may have pinched the seal on the tube from the HOPO to the ICP senor is there a way to air check that part ? thanks your the best
I don’t have a fitting for the icp but instead my air is hooked up through the ipr location. I’m getting air out of the oil fill and the intake side. Does this work the same for testing?
I found my high pressure rail and nipple retaining nut mating surface on top of the o-ring worn with metal shavings on it will that cause a leak? I had no start after warm up.. thanks in advance
I have a crazy question, I have been trying to figure out a crank no start. I did a pressure test with a gauge and with key on and i had no pressure loss. I have sync on my cam sensor so i don't think that's it. Could it possibly be the HPOP? I need some help please! Thank you
Very thorough just got a 2006 king ranch 35,000 miles and it has this issue lol might have more than the odometer says haha
Thank you!
Not uncommon to have issues at that mileage.
Hi have a 6.0L hpop leaking from the front behind the pulley you think the pump is good let me know please
If i put a gauge where the IPR goes to check pressure will that work as to check in height oil pressure