I noticed in the video you said the cluster wasn’t working. Did you get it fixed. I had that happen to my 2005 6.0 as well. Turned out it was corroded connections in the fuse panel under the dash. I have a video on my channel that kinda talks about it. ruclips.net/video/l_bgooQLges/видео.htmlsi=eZriCoYYsy_ihilW
Your swap videos are awesome! I love those old style truck bodies. It's definitely on my bucket list to restore one when I get more knowledge and experience under my belt.
Thank you taking the time , nice and slow , I didn’t grow up around repairs and this is my first diesel and I tell you !!!😡😡😡 It has been very trying. Keep up the good work and it’s nice to see a young lady in this field ! God bless you, your husband and your family greatly for being others minded ! Salute 🫡
You deserve a hundred times more subscribers! The first RUclipsr I've seen that mentions dielectric grease and I swear by that stuff I put it on EVERYTHING grounded
I hope to get a hundred times more subscribers eventually. I definitely put dialectic grease on every plug for sure! Nothing worse than tracking down an electric problem 😂
If I may... don';t use the felt protectors. They always (in my experience) cause problems with clamp fit and I'm not convinced they protect anything. If there's a leak past the battery post (electrolyte), they act like a reservoir and rot the clamp/cables faster. If you look at the negative clamp (at 2:43), you can see how the clamp is distorted and not sitting all the way down? Remove the clamp, straighten it, gently pry it open with a flat blade so that, with the felt removed, it sits down far enough that the battery post extends just past the top of the clamp. Then it can be tightened. Ima watch the rest of the vid, my apologies if this is attended to later on, I promise I'll feel bad :)
Thank you for this video, I have a ‘06 6.0 F350 same problem. Crank no start. Checked fuel pump, pumping fuel but the fuel sending unit not sensing fuel in the tank. Tank is kinda full. Might be multiple things. Not sure yet but this is one thing I have to check.
Definitely check your base oil pressure, FICM voltage, and FICM sync. Wouldn't hurt to fill your tank too just in case if your gauge is broken. Diesel Tech Ron has some great videos on crank no starts. I'd check him out too!
@littleliondoesstuff Yep. Finally hooked up the Bosch scanner. Found the ICP wasnt building pressure. All this after replacing the fuel sending unit & fuel pump.
@@anykinehobbyguy808 do you have any ICP volts? A quick way to check if your ICP sensor is the problem is to unplug and try to start it. If it starts you just need to switch out your sensor. It's located on the passenger side of the engine on the 06 and super easy to get to. That's what I would check first
good job.....like your style...i have same 06 6.0 crank no start,,, hopefully get her to run with 245 k miles, just got the AutoEnginuity Scan tool for my win 7 laptop to help fix it
I've heard a lot of good things about AutoEnginuity. Let me know how you like it. I'm still doing my best with the Scangauge 2. It works okay so far but I'd like to upgrade it in the future. Let me know if you get it started! Good luck!
Nice work..that's how you learn keep digging and don't give up....check the quick connect fitting by hpop. Check hpop and lpop. Stand pipes. Dummy plugs..watch videos and learn. Just like the rest of us men out here.
@@israelmondragon2664 you most likely have a high pressure oil leak. You can do an "air test" to try to pinpoint where you are leaking. I don't currently have a video on how to do that but I think there are some on RUclips. 2004+ usually it's a standpipe issue but 2003 it's more likely to be your high pressure pump or something else.
@@israelmondragon2664 3500 seems good for the HPOP. How did you test that? Is that what ICP is saying on your scan tool? Yes, IPR sensor is the best spot to go from. You'll have to buy an adapter for it. They are pretty cheap on Amazon. I bought this kit. amzn.to/3zz6fWl
Very good information and. Exploration🎉I did have a same problem with ICP solenoid with a pice of O ring stock the valve in open positions... Blessings.
@@19ivaniny if you press the button at the bottom of the oil filter housing and oil comes up and stays until you release the button then your all good there. That means your low pressure pump is working.
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife thanks so miuch. I just realized that the previous owner installed an aftermarket oil filter that looks different than the original. Maybe that is the problem. I will let you know if it works with oem filter. Thanks for you help.
@@leochandler-jx5ir I watched a lot of DieselTechRon videos and then just tried things on my truck and fixed things as they broke. I definitely still have a lot to learn!
That off your oil filter cap and crank the engine while holding down the spring/button in the bottom of the filter housing. If the oil comes up and fills within 10 seconds then your LPOP is probably good.
You can also remove the OEM sensor and plum in a manual gage. I used a T fitting with the gage so you can install your original sensor as well. So no check engine lights come on. The mechanical gage is very nice for future troubleshooting. Quickly eliminating any problems that may rise about low oil pressure from the LPOP
Now i have a crush but thanks for the video just paid 3600 to get mine fixed ran for 2 days still not sure yest showed a possible crank shaft sensor do you have a video on it?
What did they "fix"? Usually the crank shaft sensor code comes on when you crank it for a long time. Almost always lights up with a crank no start situation. Do you have a scanner that can read ICP, ipr, and FICM sync and volts? Those are the first things I check.
You can bend it back if you need to. I'm pretty sure mine has been bent from previous repairs. You may have to remove a bolt or 2 on it if it's never been worked on
@@jacobrobinson2303 good to hear! The good news is if you're getting oil coming up in the oil filter then your low pressure oil pump is working! Narrows down to a high pressure pump, or some sort of leak like your stand pipes or sct fitting. Hopefully it's just your IPR though bc that's the easiest fix!
@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife the truck lost all power and cut out rather immediately. I have rebuilt the entire heads, replaced all the HP other than the HPOP and IPR. I'm going to pull off the IPR and inspect it.
I would suspect the FICM. Do you have anything to check the volts on the FICM or the FICM sync? The very first thing I would do is make sure that the FICM is plugged all the way in.
Have a 05 Ford question... Replaced Turbo,oil feed line, EGR cooler ,oil cooler,gaskets and all. Orings everything. The truck idles but rpm surges to 1200 or more. Shit the truck off to restart idles fine at 664 to 6982 rpm and starts surging again. Any ideas.
@@My0186 that's interesting. If you unplug your ICP sensor does it still do it? Your ICP sensor on an 05 should be easy to get to on the passenger side valve cover. My next question if you have a fuel pressure gauge, is the fuel pressure surging too? I haven't come across that particular issue yet.
A few weeks after making this video it wouldn't start again. I replaced the starter bc the RPMs weren't getting above 130s but everything else was looking good. That did the trick. I still think it has an oil leak bc it's a long crank and takes about 5-10 seconds to build ICP.
The truck needs an engine. Listen to the uneven crank - you have one or more cylinders not making compression and from the blow-by it sure looks like it is a piston ring/ cylinder wall issue. Don't put any more money into it until you know how much you'll need to spend to get it running correctly. It may not be worth fixing.
You're absolutely right. I bought this as a project truck. I didn't even know if it would start. I'm deciding now if I want to sell it now that I got it to start or tackle the engine.
great video, mine might be having the same problem but it might be a bit different, it cranks and the engine starts then immediately dies after 1-2 second of running. no one i know has figured it out do you have any ideas or tips? side note after about 5-10 tries of starting it will fire up and not turn off
I got to tell you you have a beautiful voice you really do you sure a pretty little thing thank you so much for the information. Have a good day, sweetie.
For sure that's the long term plan. This is a quick check to get you on the road again. This truck needs A LOT more than a screen replacement. I just wanted to get it started before I tear into it.
I couldn't agree more. I already have the short replacement cap. This is a project truck I just bought so I'm still going through and fixing all the crap he did to it.
The IPR valve was stuck open because something went through the screen and the screen broke a piece of the screen held the valve open. This caused the ICP (oil pressure) not to be able to build.
@@gomezloco9 what are your readings for ICP, IPR, and FICM? I also highly recommend any videos from Diesel Tech Ron. He's helped a lot with my crank, no start problems!
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife no idea, my truck is been parked for almost 4 months, have other diesel trucks and don’t really need that truck. I finally get a little bit free so I’m going a try and check everything you show on the video.
@@JP-mu3xl not entirely true. Yes, 47+ volts is ideal. I wouldn't blame the FICM unless it was closer to 40 or under. I'd check on data before jumping right to the FICM. However, I'm basing that entirely on what I've heard on diesel tech Ron's channel
Well they were new batteries so idk what to tell you 😂 and it wasn't showing any misfires or problems when I got it started and the only thing I did was change the IPR just like I showed 🤷♀️
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Diesel tech Ron videos helped me as well. Glad his family left all his videos up after he passed.
Me too! Such a wealth of information! It keeps his legacy alive
I noticed in the video you said the cluster wasn’t working. Did you get it fixed. I had that happen to my 2005 6.0 as well. Turned out it was corroded connections in the fuse panel under the dash. I have a video on my channel that kinda talks about it.
ruclips.net/video/l_bgooQLges/видео.htmlsi=eZriCoYYsy_ihilW
I did get it fixed. Lucky for me it was only a blown fuse
Your swap videos are awesome! I love those old style truck bodies. It's definitely on my bucket list to restore one when I get more knowledge and experience under my belt.
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife Thanks so much.
This is the easiest crank no start video to follow on RUclips. Subscribed 💯 Thanks!
@@carlitoneici4552 I appreciate it!
Thank you taking the time , nice and slow , I didn’t grow up around repairs and this is my first diesel and I tell you !!!😡😡😡 It has been very trying. Keep up the good work and it’s nice to see a young lady in this field ! God bless you, your husband and your family greatly for being others minded ! Salute 🫡
Glad to help! These 6.0s can definitely give you a run for your money.
You deserve a hundred times more subscribers! The first RUclipsr I've seen that mentions dielectric grease and I swear by that stuff I put it on EVERYTHING grounded
I hope to get a hundred times more subscribers eventually. I definitely put dialectic grease on every plug for sure! Nothing worse than tracking down an electric problem 😂
I was so glad I found your video, I cranked my 20 times and threw a wrench after it not starting.
I know the feeling 😂 I hope you got it going!
If I may... don';t use the felt protectors. They always (in my experience) cause problems with clamp fit and I'm not convinced they protect anything. If there's a leak past the battery post (electrolyte), they act like a reservoir and rot the clamp/cables faster. If you look at the negative clamp (at 2:43), you can see how the clamp is distorted and not sitting all the way down? Remove the clamp, straighten it, gently pry it open with a flat blade so that, with the felt removed, it sits down far enough that the battery post extends just past the top of the clamp. Then it can be tightened. Ima watch the rest of the vid, my apologies if this is attended to later on, I promise I'll feel bad :)
I'm still very much an amateur so I'm always open to friendly advice! Thank you!
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife Ur absolutely welcome! You have good instincts, you'll do great!
@@petermeic1430 thank you!
Great illustration and video young lady!! Thank you!
@@dereckwhite5774 Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this video, I have a ‘06 6.0 F350 same problem. Crank no start. Checked fuel pump, pumping fuel but the fuel sending unit not sensing fuel in the tank. Tank is kinda full. Might be multiple things. Not sure yet but this is one thing I have to check.
Definitely check your base oil pressure, FICM voltage, and FICM sync. Wouldn't hurt to fill your tank too just in case if your gauge is broken. Diesel Tech Ron has some great videos on crank no starts. I'd check him out too!
@littleliondoesstuff Yep. Finally hooked up the Bosch scanner. Found the ICP wasnt building pressure. All this after replacing the fuel sending unit & fuel pump.
@@anykinehobbyguy808 do you have any ICP volts? A quick way to check if your ICP sensor is the problem is to unplug and try to start it. If it starts you just need to switch out your sensor. It's located on the passenger side of the engine on the 06 and super easy to get to. That's what I would check first
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife We Ended up sending it back to the person who worked on it before me.
Good deal, hopefully they figure it out
Hell yeah! Let’s go 6.0 gang!
good job.....like your style...i have same 06 6.0 crank no start,,, hopefully get her to run with 245 k miles, just got the AutoEnginuity Scan tool for my win 7 laptop to help fix it
I've heard a lot of good things about AutoEnginuity. Let me know how you like it. I'm still doing my best with the Scangauge 2. It works okay so far but I'd like to upgrade it in the future. Let me know if you get it started! Good luck!
You did very well has a lot of information camera accuracy was on point I will be watching more videos thank you
Thank you! I appreciate it
Nice work..that's how you learn keep digging and don't give up....check the quick connect fitting by hpop. Check hpop and lpop. Stand pipes. Dummy plugs..watch videos and learn. Just like the rest of us men out here.
For sure! Can't learn if you don't dig in
What if it only starts when cold and dies when hot?
2003 6.0 powerstroke
@@israelmondragon2664 you most likely have a high pressure oil leak. You can do an "air test" to try to pinpoint where you are leaking. I don't currently have a video on how to do that but I think there are some on RUclips. 2004+ usually it's a standpipe issue but 2003 it's more likely to be your high pressure pump or something else.
Your awsome! Thank you for responding so quickly. Pressure that was built from HPOP was 3500 max.
Air Test through IPR sensor ?
@@israelmondragon2664 3500 seems good for the HPOP. How did you test that? Is that what ICP is saying on your scan tool? Yes, IPR sensor is the best spot to go from. You'll have to buy an adapter for it. They are pretty cheap on Amazon. I bought this kit. amzn.to/3zz6fWl
You're awsome!
Thank you for this. I'm having the exact same issue on my E350 bus. Ordering the parts you have listed here.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes
Very good information and. Exploration🎉I did have a same problem with ICP solenoid with a pice of O ring stock the valve in open positions... Blessings.
Thank you!
Thanks for the info. It was a really big help 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
Glad it was helpful! I've got more 6.0 videos in the works.
What is the proble if there is not oil coming front oil filter ?
@@19ivaniny if you crank and absolutely no oil comes up then my first suspicion would be the lpop (low pressure oil pump).
Thanks. Is There is a small bottom on the oil filter compartment that if it pressed the oil comes out? Mine is powerstroke 6.4 2008
@@19ivaniny if you press the button at the bottom of the oil filter housing and oil comes up and stays until you release the button then your all good there. That means your low pressure pump is working.
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife thanks so miuch. I just realized that the previous owner installed an aftermarket oil filter that looks different than the original. Maybe that is the problem. I will let you know if it works with oem filter. Thanks for you help.
@@19ivaniny gotcha, yeah if they put a tall cap on then you need to make sure you get the larger filter for it.
Thank you you’ve been a lot of help how did you learn about diesel trucks?
@@leochandler-jx5ir I watched a lot of DieselTechRon videos and then just tried things on my truck and fixed things as they broke. I definitely still have a lot to learn!
Nice job. Great to have a woman that can work.
Damn straight 😂
How do I check LPOP with external oil filter?
That off your oil filter cap and crank the engine while holding down the spring/button in the bottom of the filter housing. If the oil comes up and fills within 10 seconds then your LPOP is probably good.
You can also remove the OEM sensor and plum in a manual gage. I used a T fitting with the gage so you can install your original sensor as well. So no check engine lights come on. The mechanical gage is very nice for future troubleshooting. Quickly eliminating any problems that may rise about low oil pressure from the LPOP
@kylebachman4477 great idea!
Liked and subscribed! Thanks for the help and tips from Missouri 💪🏼🇺🇸
@@jordanparker8359 Good to hear!
Now i have a crush but thanks for the video just paid 3600 to get mine fixed ran for 2 days still not sure yest showed a possible crank shaft sensor do you have a video on it?
What did they "fix"? Usually the crank shaft sensor code comes on when you crank it for a long time. Almost always lights up with a crank no start situation. Do you have a scanner that can read ICP, ipr, and FICM sync and volts? Those are the first things I check.
How did you get past that heat shield?
You can bend it back if you need to. I'm pretty sure mine has been bent from previous repairs. You may have to remove a bolt or 2 on it if it's never been worked on
She said she has small hands!!
How fast should the oil filter houing drain after stop cranking? Mine drops very rapidly
That's normal. The only way to keep it from draining would be to press the anti drain "button" spring at the bottom of the filter housing.
@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife thanks for the reply! I'm having similar issues and found your video very helpful.
@@jacobrobinson2303 good to hear! The good news is if you're getting oil coming up in the oil filter then your low pressure oil pump is working! Narrows down to a high pressure pump, or some sort of leak like your stand pipes or sct fitting. Hopefully it's just your IPR though bc that's the easiest fix!
@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife the truck lost all power and cut out rather immediately. I have rebuilt the entire heads, replaced all the HP other than the HPOP and IPR. I'm going to pull off the IPR and inspect it.
nice Job!!!!
@@CrispySonOfA thank you!
What if your injectors don’t clatter at all on mines ma’am
I would suspect the FICM. Do you have anything to check the volts on the FICM or the FICM sync? The very first thing I would do is make sure that the FICM is plugged all the way in.
Great job ..
@@My0186 Thank you!
Have a 05 Ford question... Replaced Turbo,oil feed line, EGR cooler ,oil cooler,gaskets and all. Orings everything. The truck idles but rpm surges to 1200 or more. Shit the truck off to restart idles fine at 664 to 6982 rpm and starts surging again. Any ideas.
@@My0186 that's interesting. If you unplug your ICP sensor does it still do it? Your ICP sensor on an 05 should be easy to get to on the passenger side valve cover. My next question if you have a fuel pressure gauge, is the fuel pressure surging too?
I haven't come across that particular issue yet.
Those new batteries didn’t seem to be cranking too well. Maybe just the audio. Kinda almost sounds like a dead cylinder
A few weeks after making this video it wouldn't start again. I replaced the starter bc the RPMs weren't getting above 130s but everything else was looking good. That did the trick. I still think it has an oil leak bc it's a long crank and takes about 5-10 seconds to build ICP.
Does the diesel fuel go bad after sitting for a while? Considering the conditions 🤔
Nvm. Got to see you've changed the old diesel. Thank you.
It definitely goes bad when it sits too long. You don't want to store it for more than 6-12 months. It starts to degrade.
Thank you. And you have a good evening.
Great video young lady
Thank you!
Experience diagnosis senorita mi respect 🙏 para ustes mui bien saludes noel matute
Gracias!
Way to go great job!!!!!!!!
Thank you! Figuring out these 6.0s a little at a time
The truck needs an engine. Listen to the uneven crank - you have one or more cylinders not making compression and from the blow-by it sure looks like it is a piston ring/ cylinder wall issue. Don't put any more money into it until you know how much you'll need to spend to get it running correctly. It may not be worth fixing.
You're absolutely right. I bought this as a project truck. I didn't even know if it would start. I'm deciding now if I want to sell it now that I got it to start or tackle the engine.
Nice job!
@@mattwren4062 Thank you! I'm no pro but I get a little more knowledge every repair I do.
great video, mine might be having the same problem but it might be a bit different, it cranks and the engine starts then immediately dies after 1-2 second of running. no one i know has figured it out do you have any ideas or tips? side note after about 5-10 tries of starting it will fire up and not turn off
Hmm interesting. Have you check your fuel pressure and oil pressure willing your cranking?
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife yes, they are both good which doesn’t make sense
@@piersonjohn1264 I think I'd check compression after that. Any codes?
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife got it, no codes
@@piersonjohn1264 that's a tough one. Maybe it's electrical then
Thanks for the info 👍🏻
You bet!
I got to tell you you have a beautiful voice you really do you sure a pretty little thing thank you so much for the information. Have a good day, sweetie.
Thank you!
Hi the correct way is to remove your oil cooler and replace the screen under the oil cooler it's going to happen again.
For sure that's the long term plan. This is a quick check to get you on the road again. This truck needs A LOT more than a screen replacement. I just wanted to get it started before I tear into it.
How did your oil come up without you having to press down that valve?
Pressing that valve down is not necessary.
I think the oil will come up without holding down the valve but pushing the valve down keeps it from draining down.
Sounds like a 6 year old trying to explain physics lol 😂🙄
I'll take that as a compliment bc if a 6 year old can explain physics then anyone can understand it
@littleliondoesstuff TRYING being the key word here, but guess that went over your head lol.
@@Powerstroke431 Everything goes over my head, I'm only 5'4"
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife Hahaha, Yes!!! Great attitude! Thanks for the vid as well!
Awesome!!
Thank you! Hoping to have a pole barn soon so I can do a lot more 6.0 videos
Aswome job 👍
@@woodystubb686 thank you!
You should get rid of that tall filter cap before it kills your lifters.
I couldn't agree more. I already have the short replacement cap. This is a project truck I just bought so I'm still going through and fixing all the crap he did to it.
You are awesome 😎
I appreciate you saying that!
So si the icp or ipr valve?
The IPR valve was stuck open because something went through the screen and the screen broke a piece of the screen held the valve open. This caused the ICP (oil pressure) not to be able to build.
Awesome, my 2006 super duty don’t start so I’m going a try right now 👍👍👍👍…
Thanks so much!
@@gomezloco9 what are your readings for ICP, IPR, and FICM? I also highly recommend any videos from Diesel Tech Ron. He's helped a lot with my crank, no start problems!
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife no idea, my truck is been parked for almost 4 months, have other diesel trucks and don’t really need that truck. I finally get a little bit free so I’m going a try and check everything you show on the video.
I’m in Georgia and it been raining all day so as soon rains going away I’ll check
if you have below 47v for FICM, thats to low...
@@JP-mu3xl not entirely true. Yes, 47+ volts is ideal. I wouldn't blame the FICM unless it was closer to 40 or under. I'd check on data before jumping right to the FICM. However, I'm basing that entirely on what I've heard on diesel tech Ron's channel
❤
Those don't sound like new batteries and it sounds like the engine has a skip
Well they were new batteries so idk what to tell you 😂 and it wasn't showing any misfires or problems when I got it started and the only thing I did was change the IPR just like I showed 🤷♀️
Wow
Do you have crank no start issue?
@@Sara_The_Feral_Housewife I was in the past but I see you working an diesel all can say wow you have you like and a new subscriber
@@oscarrojas4281 thank you, it's much appreciated!
Don sub and like all bell ..., i love watching you videos ❤❤
Thank you!
Traduscalo no inglesme interesa
Lo siento, mi espanol no es bueno. Necesito aprender.
Some people should just stick to rebuilding sandwiches
And some people shouldn't encourage their wives to buy broken 6.0s but here we are 🤷♀️
Stick to mounting other dudes
Your hatefulness is going to catch up to you someday.
👍👍👍👍!