I know. I don't watch TV everyday. I watch RUclips instead. Isn't it amazing. I purchased a 05 F-350 6.0 with a no start issue when hot. I wanted to learn about diesels. Learned so much already in the first 30 days with RUclips. I work on the truck and then watch RUclips. Repeat until problem solved. Just keep learning is the best part.
@@ronymorales3527 Smart move. My 05 F-350 was a trade in that the non Ford dealer didn’t want. So I purchased it for a low price. I drive daily to work now thanks to Ron on RUclips. Truck wouldn’t run past 15 minutes. The hot no start. Ended up being the IPR valve. Would not let the engine build 500 psi at an idle. Also replaced seals and dummy plugs. Had the injectors out. Now I know what happens when I turn the key to fire it up. You learn what sounds to listen for like Ron said. Great knowledge.
If you have an IPR air tester... highly recommend doing a final air test after you get the cover back on. Better to identify any additional leaks now before you reassemble everything. Thanks for the vid.
My truck starts to lose power once it goes under a load such as going up a few different hills for pulling a loaded trailer. It starts to lose power then if I keep pushing it, it will eventually completely stall out then I have to wait a few minutes and it will start back up like normal. It'll then drive normal for just a little bit and then the same problem will occur again. Any clue as to what this could be? About every sensor on it has been changed. Has a new fuel pump, a new gasket kit was placed on the fuel pump housing, has new fuel filters, has a brand new turbo on it, it has been studded and deleted, it also has a fresh oil change. Just can't get to the bottom of the issue I have no idea what it is. With my ScanGauge I checked the oil pressure while it's running which gives me a live read out and it's in the correct parameters. After the turbo was changed at idle the oil pressure gauge is at zero and I get a check Gage light on. The second I push on the gas pedal it goes back up like it should but the read out on my scan gauge is showing its in normal range. I checked the ficm voltage as well when it's running and it's within normal range the lowest it's ever gotten is 13.5 v. Both voltages are right in line with each other. Also after the turbo was changed it now has a long start.
This video helped me a lot! Thanks! Btw: Permatex Grey (not red, blue, or black) is what should be used at the rear engine cover/block union under the HPOP cover. The HPOP cover bolts should be installed finger tight and allowed to sit for 1 hour while the Permatex starts to cure. After one hour has passed then the HPOP cover bolts should be torqued to spec. Cheers!
Another great video, especially on such a touchy area. One thing, you were so careful to insist on using rags while disassembling to ensure nothing fell back into the camshaft, etc, but seemed to not be an issue reassembling. I know it's so easy to not only drop the bolts, but the sockets and adapters when pulling them off. I now use duct tape to hold those assemblies together...just in case.
had a crank no start 6.0 yesterday, built 300psi icp. blew the stc fitting out and cracked the rear timing cover first time seeing a cracked cover and bent branch tube.
Ahh very awesome video bro this video is packed with real world of turning wrenches bringing it to people at their fingertips very valuable info .Sure would have been nice to have this video instead of a service manual days
Thanks for the videos. I picked up a cheap, early '04 F-450 recently and it's my first 6.0. It's been doing great, but the other day the oil pressure gauge went to zero sitting at a stop light. I double checked my ICP right quick, and it showed around 620 or so. I pulled over and checked the oil level and all was well. I changed the oil and made sure the plunger at the bottom of the filter housing was free. I used the stock cap and a motorcraft filter. I did notice a small piece of metal on the drain plug magnet, and there was what looked like a small piece of yellow plastic in the filter housing at the time of the oil change. When the engine is cold it runs normal with maybe a hint of a long crank. Once it warms up I'm getting zero oil pressure at idle again. I'm afraid it may be the beginning of the end of the HPOP, but is there any chance it's a problem with the sending unit for the gauge? I'm certain it's time for both coolers as well, but I have to tackle the biggest problem at the moment and let the others ride for a bit until the truck makes me some money.
Check your low pressure sensor for your oil pressure cuz what that is that gauge doesn't show you on the dash your IPC your high pressure it only shows you your low pressure so you should have regular low pressure for everything else your h pop your high pressure is only for your fuel injectors that is the main thing that pressurizes the fuel injectors in order for the plunger to put more fuel pressure to atomize the fuel because your fuel pressure is actually low pressure like a carbureted gas engine it's low pressure through the engine until it hits the injectors the injectors raise the pressure they use electricity to release the magnetic plunger and oil pressure is what drives that plunger down to atomize the fuel and spray it into the high compression cylinder
This is the exact problem I am having with my F350 super duty. My Machanic has has my truck for over o month and seems as if he has stalled out on working on it. He has told me now at this point that the lower pump is working but the top pump is not. He thinks it needs to be replaced. With this problem listed above do you think that he is correct. After watching your video here I think I will go get the truck and do the repair myself. If I do is it just a “high pump rebuild kit” I need? “
⭐A Ford F 250 6.0 liter Powerstroke I have been helping work on and working onisn't running but it threw codes for three glow plugs and the EGR it starts sometimes and runs for 10-30 seconds and shut itself down, is this due to the bad glow plugs and the GPCM telling the engine to shut off????⭐
Is it common for the pumps them selfs to go out. My 2005 f35 6.0 just started having this issue. Cold start no problem. Drive it around and nothing, Let it sit for a little for the oil to thinkin up and it starts up no problem. I have noticed oil leaking from the back side of the engine.
We left the specialized socket for the IPR valve on it. The wire was on the back side holding socket on. Plus it will make it easier to get the IPR out next time and be a better heat shield than the cheap foil wrap with button.🤭
i have a 2003 Ford Excursion 6.0 ... the truck has hardly runs , it starts but takes a while , but has no power . I was getting an icp high voltage code and repaired the harness ( all 3 wires were touching in the loom ) . I drove it with this code for a while, so my guess the wires were shorting each other for quite some time . I was told even if the icp fails the pcm has a default mode to still run ? I pin tested the icp circuit to the pcm plug , all is good no more shorted wires . Icp 29 Vref 36 and signal return 29 . ( all good to Pcm ) I have no power though it barely starts when it does have no throttle response ( 0 any in drive ) in nuetral hardly any very slow to rev ( no drive power of engine ) i bought a new hfcm and billet seconday fuel filter cap with the fuel tap fitting to test fuel pressure , I am 55lbs on the top cap. I put a blue spring kit a year ago , should I test fuel pressure at factory port ? I am at a loss , no more codes , besides Icp intermitten but now is gone and wont come back . Thinking my hpop failed , this is a 6.0 production date of 05/2003 so icp is next to Ipr . My ficm is in sync , voltage on ficm is above 48 ( i bought a new higher voltage one 2 years back whdn mine failed ) . whats next hpop air test for leaks ? Could my pcm become corrupted from icp wires touching ? All my values , voltages on Icp, Irp% , foot pedal voltage are in line .... I can tell u when i do a test with scanner engine ( when it runs) the scanner bumps the idle up , so that makes me believe that my hpop system is still tight . Any thoughts would be appreciated . Thanks Dave
Old video but i have a question so I’m having crank no start replaced Ipr valve still no start I don’t have any way of knowing the Icp pressure. In the video you didn’t replace the hpop so it was just a seal issue?
have you ever seen one that would max out at @2000psi ? I have done an air leak test from ICP and IPR ports and can find no leaks. I have not popped the cap off the HPOP because it's running and HOT starting but the ICP will not go over 2000PSI with a new ICP.
Nice very thorough vids and work i also work at a ford dealer have been with ford since 2007 been at independents for another 15 years watched a handfull of your vids liked the dps vids thanks for the vids keep um coming
Truck died while driving.... then would crank and start then immediately die... added oil and the icp pressure went to the 400 range and wouldn’t even fire. Any thoughts? Always had long cranks to start.
So when on bench and you turn pump both ways and you hear it pumping and there are no rough spots, the pump is good? Is there another way you can double check it.. Our fitting is definitely loose/worn so most likely that but all that work is lot if the pump is weak?
did your desiel not start hot or cold. mine does not start hot. dealer is srewed me on costs already charge me 2,000 and didnt even fix the problem. still wont start sometimes when hot. and ford are supposed to be experts
I have a cold And a Hot no start. It will start with starting fluid. A y suggestions would Greatly be appreciated. Also I e doe a have replaced the dummy a stand pipes on both sides and right side nipple cups. I found a bad cup o-ring and did an ICP air test. And replaced the inj orings. It ran great till a out a year ago and. Haven’t worked on it since(I fell off a roof and broke quite a injurious) But now I Need my truck badly! I also noticed that their is exhaut coming from under my water pump? I have alot of $$$ into this but haven’t been able to physically work on it. Feeling better to be able to be able to work on it as much as possible. I live in N.H., so the weather has been pretty bad lately. ANY help or suggestions would be extremely appreciated!
quick question, I just did a hpop upgrade and after everything was put together I can't get it to start and it sounds like it's hydrolocked, any tips what to look for? thanks for videos and keep up the good work!
I have a 2007 6.0 I'm going to do an EGR delete and a oil cooler I heard they upgraded the stc fitting on the 2007's is that true, should I do that as long as I have it apart, is there anything else I should while I have it taken apart?
Hello I was hoping you can help me out. I accidentally dropped a bolt down blow the gears. I've used a scope to try and locate the bolt but I havent been able to now for a day and a half. Is there anyway it might of went into the oil pan?
I have a 06 f250 6.0 it has a rough idle and it has a oil leak in the back im guessing its coming from the oil pump it cut off and wouldn't crank back the pressure gauge stop working but it did crank back after a few trys the pressure gauge went up but it dropped again could it be a oil ring leak on the oil pump or is the pump itself bad
I had the HPOP replaced on my 2004 6.0 .. it seems to misfire when I hit 55 to 75 mph. Is that common? If so how long does it take for the air to bleed out?
Had this pump replaced probably 50 k ago. I have a symptom that I think I had with the old one but I'm a bit foggy on weather it did this with the old pump. Engine runs nice and quiet for about an hour or so then it develops a distinct "wrrrrrrrrrrr". No crunching grinding or other evil sounds, just the smooth low "wrrrrrrrrrrrrr". It runs smooth, plenty of power. I'm convinced this noise is associated with the pump (even more since I saw you bench check the pump from this truck). My question is have you had this pump noise show up? What can I do to mitigate this problem, minimize the cost to repair the eventual failure? Is it associated with replacement pumps as opposed to new Ford pumps? PS It does this with brand new oil as well as oil that is due to be changed. Also, this engine has been bullet proofed with a new style EGR cooler and a remote oil filter and cooler
I know this may not be related to this topic. Please forgive me. But I've seen a lot of your videos and I noticed that you have a lot of knowledge on the 6.0's powerstroke. I was hopping you may know what could be the problem with mine. It starts up fine but, once it warms up, it starts shaking at idle specially when it is on drive or reverse. I can also feel it when i'm going down the road, but is not as bad. It almost feels like if a cylinder was missing, but it has no codes. Any thoughts?
On diesels they are not as strictly monitored for misfires etc for emmisions reasons as gas vehicles. So it may not set a code for awhile. I have seen the 6.0l injectors have misfires only when hot multiple times and every time it is an injector. On our Ford Scan tool we have a live view of the power balance of the engine that will show us misfires that you may or may not feel but will likely not set a code as the misfire duration is too short. I show an example of this here about at the 6min mark and you will see what I am talking about- Engine Misfires That Feel Like A Harsh Shifting Transmission So what I am saying is the best way to pinpoint it is to at least have the dealer do this power balance test mention it has to be hot then you can change the injector yourself following my videos if you like to save a little money.
Hi I have a 06 ford f250 diesel and no start but when the towing truck inclined the truck to put the truck down I tried to start and it start right away and the guy put it down with the truck on and it keep working fine then I turn it off and tried to turn it on and it won't start can you help me please
I have a Ford 2007 when running for a limited period and when the engine turns off, it will not work again. What is the solution? Can I send you through your personal page?
Nice video, I have a 2007 f250 that just died rolling on to the interstate. I have a crank no start no code issue but im dead in the water until I can get a scanner hooked up. What is the most common crank no start on the 07's? I'm praying its not the HPOP, I don't want to have to take all that shit off to get to it.
Being 05+... Either the STC fitting. Which is shown in this video, or something went through the IPR screen and is holding the valve open. Dummy plugs will USALLY be a crank no start while hot. Not a shut down.
+Wico Diesel yep this was a while back but I ended up pulling the IPR valve and the screen was blown out. Replaced it with a new one and she cranked right up. Thanks!
Bad engineering. It was a snap to connect fitting for assembly efficiency I am sure and it fails over time. A quick connect fitting on a 3000+ psi system is not a good idea.
Great video and a tremendous help. How long did it take to start up? I just replaced my stc fitting and ipr screen . I tried cranking it for a minute or two but my icp says 0.
+DrAsTiC09 if you air tested it should still take 1min or less to start to fire build icp along the way sound like your ipr is stuck open there is a reason I always change them
+FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the reply. I came home today and hooked up a battery jumper because it sounded like I was not getting full power. The truck started after a minute or so. I let it rune for 10 minutes and shut it off. About 20 minutes later I tried to start the truck and it took a while to kick over. The ipr was is at 25 , the fmp was at 47.5 and the icp while running is around 580. Do you think there is air built up or do I have a leak someplace else. I did an air test and did not hear anything leaking.
great video, I got a 6.0 that I recently purchased, it is leaking oil badly down the trans bell housing, and running off the trans and dripping under the truck. The valley is dry as a bone. Its studded and deleted any ideas what could be back there?
If it is coming from up high by valley but valley is dry, then you likely have a cracked rear cover from a blown STC fitting. You will have to get a good flashlight and check it out on the passenger side. That is the only real leak point for that bad of a leak.
I checked and it seems to be coming from between the hpop cover and where it seals to the rear cover. It has studs and egr delete and the guy I bought it from told me they pinched the seal. Hopefully that's all it is. The truck starts right up hot or cold with no issues
Ran into one of these a week ago customer took it to 3 other techs, replaced HP oil pump 360psi was all icp tested good on modus ultra (snap on) replaced icp cranked and at 400 psi poof started and ran. Just because a sensor tests good doesnt mean its working. Ps Mac tools sells this socket pictured and can be removed w turbo in place.
I have a 2006 F250 with a 6.0 diesel turbo charged I put a new high pressure oil pump in started up right away but for some reason it seems like it is sucking air I checked all the fittings it seems to be fine when you accelerate it that's when you hear like air being sucked it also has a smell of fuel does anyone know what this could be
I recently changed out the IPR and the truck has been fine for 6 months, now I'm loosing oil pressure at idle. It's an 04 6.0 with 210k and I don't know the history other than it's got the EGR Delete and re-studded. Long cranks but does start and run but loses oil pressure when idle is under 800-1000. Comes back up on throttle. Do you think the ball bearing in the HPOP would be the culprit? I've run a scangauge 2 and the codes are P0198 and P2285. I unplugged the ICP and checked it so that could be one of the codes but tried clearing and they came up again. ICP Voltage koeo is .25......I changed the oil filter housing and cap back to OEM, changed oil, checked plunger and it's working, everything I've read points to the HPOP ball bearing or oil pressure switch but if just the switch it would start normal I would think?? Please advise, you have some great videos they are very helpful!! Thank you!! I'm a new RC truck owner as well, got the Stampede 4x4 VXL with TSM!!
+Bandit W is this an early 04 or a late 04 with the icp in the right hand valve cover? What is the icp at idle and more importantly what is the ipr % when you say its losing oil pressure? How do you know the pressure is low is it from the oil pressure light in the cluster?
Well I was halfway through tearing it apart when I originally left my question. Finished tearing it down last night, I found the hpop was in fact missing the bearing. It's got the old style pump but the ICP sensor is on the passenger valve cover. I guess I got a hybrid!! Anyway I ordered a new hpop and oil tube to replace that also while I'm in there. Hopefully that's the issue!
If it helps anyone, I had my 06 shut off completely with no start on the highway, started replacing standpipes and dummy plugs but the seals looked ok anyways but found the icp sensor and stc fitting o rings blown apart.
i have 2006 6.0 and it died and want restart i scaned it with my mac hand held scanner and p2290 p2617 p2614 came up it said injector control pressure too low and camshaft positioning sensor signal output circuit open any thoughts
This fitting in this video is a real good place to start, but testing the system is best as shown here- No Start: 6.0L Powerstroke ICP Leak Testing Don't worry about the cam code that is from the truck dying, concentrate on the low icp situation
HELLO GUYS I WOULD APRECCIATE YOUR HELP I HAVE A 2005 THAT STARTS WELL BUT IN LOW IDLE MY OIL PRESSURE DROPS TO 0 ON MY GAUGE ONCE I ACCELARATE IT GOES BACK TO NORMAL DO YALL THINK I HAVE A OIL PUMP FAILURE ...THANKS
just propping it up for now on engine and I am using the high lift trans jack as a camera mount for the 3rd person view it is a great idea I can raise, tilt and angle all I want like a real camera support used in movies the guys make fun of me. I want to find this claw device that had a weighted bag on the bottom of it.
i have a 2005 6.0 f350 250k miles on it. I had the oil replaced today at a service station. Also replaced with NEW OEM oil filter and Air Filters. Right after leaving the service station, I noticed my engine runs sluggish and vibrates. I drove the truck around 10 miles and parked to go to a store. Then 1hr later I restarted the truck and it started poorly and felt the vibration from the engine. Drove it for about 500 yards and it died out. Stopped there for a 15 minutes trying to restart it and won't start. After that it restarted again but with low to no power. I drove it around 100 yards very slow 10MPH. Pressing the pedal does not rev the engine up. Then I parked it on the side of the road and it died. Tried to restart it again, it cranks, but won't start. It was running great before the oil change. Any ideas? Could the service station have used the wrong type of oil? What damage if any to the injectors?
Jaمal S3doun In that short a period of time it should of had no problems with any engine oil they put in there. Is the oil level full? Are you using the factory shallow oil cap? How is the oil pressure gauge in the cluster?
Do pumps normally give out all at once are slowly fail I have 2005 and have 180k miles just recently had no start issues would turn the key off recycle a couple of times and finally it would start but now it won't start at all my Ipr cranking immediately goes to 84.7 and my icp reads 350
I have the exact same issue ipr 85% icp 365psi desired icp 650psi should I pull ipr and check for debri? If there is would replacing the ipr correct the problem? Thanks in advance
People don't realize how lucky they are to have these videos man. Your hours of work and learning all put in a 25min video. 👌🏽
I know. I don't watch TV everyday. I watch RUclips instead. Isn't it amazing. I purchased a 05 F-350 6.0 with a no start issue when hot. I wanted to learn about diesels. Learned so much already in the first 30 days with RUclips. I work on the truck and then watch RUclips. Repeat until problem solved. Just keep learning is the best part.
@@Gancycle that is what I am doing now
Trying to learn Ford diesel
This videos are the best
@@ronymorales3527 Smart move. My 05 F-350 was a trade in that the non Ford dealer didn’t want. So I purchased it for a low price. I drive daily to work now thanks to Ron on RUclips. Truck wouldn’t run past 15 minutes. The hot no start. Ended up being the IPR valve. Would not let the engine build 500 psi at an idle. Also replaced seals and dummy plugs. Had the injectors out. Now I know what happens when I turn the key to fire it up. You learn what sounds to listen for like Ron said. Great knowledge.
If you have an IPR air tester... highly recommend doing a final air test after you get the cover back on. Better to identify any additional leaks now before you reassemble everything. Thanks for the vid.
You make the best videos for Ford lovers that do their own work! Thank you for all you time and effort that you put in and for sharing your knowledge!
Brother, you are a gift to those of us who do our own wrenching... thank you.
Doing my hpop right now I stopped when you said somthing about that fitting and ordered one right away haha
Excellent been a mechanic for 40+ years diesel is not my forta but have to tell you this video you made is perfect keep it up
Thanks.
Great video! You do such a great job explaining everything in a simple way. Thanks for all your time making these great videos!
My truck starts to lose power once it goes under a load such as going up a few different hills for pulling a loaded trailer. It starts to lose power then if I keep pushing it, it will eventually completely stall out then I have to wait a few minutes and it will start back up like normal. It'll then drive normal for just a little bit and then the same problem will occur again.
Any clue as to what this could be?
About every sensor on it has been changed. Has a new fuel pump, a new gasket kit was placed on the fuel pump housing, has new fuel filters, has a brand new turbo on it, it has been studded and deleted, it also has a fresh oil change. Just can't get to the bottom of the issue I have no idea what it is.
With my ScanGauge I checked the oil pressure while it's running which gives me a live read out and it's in the correct parameters. After the turbo was changed at idle the oil pressure gauge is at zero and I get a check Gage light on. The second I push on the gas pedal it goes back up like it should but the read out on my scan gauge is showing its in normal range. I checked the ficm voltage as well when it's running and it's within normal range the lowest it's ever gotten is 13.5 v. Both voltages are right in line with each other. Also after the turbo was changed it now has a long start.
This video helped me a lot! Thanks!
Btw: Permatex Grey (not red, blue, or black) is what should be used at the rear engine cover/block union under the HPOP cover. The HPOP cover bolts should be installed finger tight and allowed to sit for 1 hour while the Permatex starts to cure. After one hour has passed then the HPOP cover bolts should be torqued to spec.
Cheers!
I’ve been a mechanic big trucks mostly .Like what someone else commented to have these videos are golden.
Great video man you make it look pretty easy for a person that is mechanically inclined but has never done a powerstroke
Another great video, especially on such a touchy area. One thing, you were so careful to insist on using rags while disassembling to ensure nothing fell back into the camshaft, etc, but seemed to not be an issue reassembling. I know it's so easy to not only drop the bolts, but the sockets and adapters when pulling them off. I now use duct tape to hold those assemblies together...just in case.
had a crank no start 6.0 yesterday, built 300psi icp. blew the stc fitting out and cracked the rear timing cover first time seeing a cracked cover and bent branch tube.
The bomb 6.0 ---7.3 IDI best diesel ever made.
Ahh very awesome video bro this video is packed with real world of turning wrenches bringing it to people at their fingertips very valuable info .Sure would have been nice to have this video instead of a service manual days
Great video. I was too chicken to do this repair myself back in 2012. Watching you do it, it doesn't look too horrible.
Thanks for the videos. I picked up a cheap, early '04 F-450 recently and it's my first 6.0. It's been doing great, but the other day the oil pressure gauge went to zero sitting at a stop light. I double checked my ICP right quick, and it showed around 620 or so. I pulled over and checked the oil level and all was well. I changed the oil and made sure the plunger at the bottom of the filter housing was free. I used the stock cap and a motorcraft filter. I did notice a small piece of metal on the drain plug magnet, and there was what looked like a small piece of yellow plastic in the filter housing at the time of the oil change. When the engine is cold it runs normal with maybe a hint of a long crank. Once it warms up I'm getting zero oil pressure at idle again. I'm afraid it may be the beginning of the end of the HPOP, but is there any chance it's a problem with the sending unit for the gauge? I'm certain it's time for both coolers as well, but I have to tackle the biggest problem at the moment and let the others ride for a bit until the truck makes me some money.
Check your low pressure sensor for your oil pressure cuz what that is that gauge doesn't show you on the dash your IPC your high pressure it only shows you your low pressure so you should have regular low pressure for everything else your h pop your high pressure is only for your fuel injectors that is the main thing that pressurizes the fuel injectors in order for the plunger to put more fuel pressure to atomize the fuel because your fuel pressure is actually low pressure like a carbureted gas engine it's low pressure through the engine until it hits the injectors the injectors raise the pressure they use electricity to release the magnetic plunger and oil pressure is what drives that plunger down to atomize the fuel and spray it into the high compression cylinder
This is the exact problem I am having with my F350 super duty. My Machanic has has my truck for over o month and seems as if he has stalled out on working on it. He has told me now at this point that the lower pump is working but the top pump is not. He thinks it needs to be replaced. With this problem listed above do you think that he is correct. After watching your video here I think I will go get the truck and do the repair myself. If I do is it just a “high pump rebuild kit” I need?
“
⭐A Ford F 250 6.0 liter Powerstroke I have been helping work on and working onisn't running but it threw codes for three glow plugs and the EGR it starts sometimes and runs for 10-30 seconds and shut itself down, is this due to the bad glow plugs and the GPCM telling the engine to shut off????⭐
Is it common for the pumps them selfs to go out. My 2005 f35 6.0 just started having this issue. Cold start no problem. Drive it around and nothing, Let it sit for a little for the oil to thinkin up and it starts up no problem. I have noticed oil leaking from the back side of the engine.
Awesome vid!!! Thank you for your time. I just installed my st pic fitting upside down!!! Glad I came across your video.
Would JB weld do better than RTV silicone to patch up that crack at the back to prevent oil leaks?
We left the specialized socket for the IPR valve on it. The wire was on the back side holding socket on. Plus it will make it easier to get the IPR out next time and be a better heat shield than the cheap foil wrap with button.🤭
i have a 2003 Ford Excursion 6.0 ... the truck has hardly runs , it starts but takes a while , but has no power . I was getting an icp high voltage code and repaired the harness ( all 3 wires were touching in the loom ) . I drove it with this code for a while, so my guess the wires were shorting each other for quite some time . I was told even if the icp fails the pcm has a default mode to still run ? I pin tested the icp circuit to the pcm plug , all is good no more shorted wires . Icp 29 Vref 36 and signal return 29 . ( all good to Pcm )
I have no power though it barely starts when it does have no throttle response ( 0 any in drive ) in nuetral hardly any very slow to rev ( no drive power of engine )
i bought a new hfcm and billet seconday fuel filter cap with the fuel tap fitting to test fuel pressure , I am 55lbs on the top cap. I put a blue spring kit a year ago , should I test fuel pressure at factory port ?
I am at a loss , no more codes , besides Icp intermitten but now is gone and wont come back .
Thinking my hpop failed , this is a 6.0 production date of 05/2003 so icp is next to Ipr . My ficm is in sync , voltage on ficm is above 48 ( i bought a new higher voltage one 2 years back whdn mine failed ) .
whats next hpop air test for leaks ? Could my pcm become corrupted from icp wires touching ? All my values , voltages on Icp, Irp% , foot pedal voltage are in line .... I can tell u when i do a test with scanner engine ( when it runs) the scanner bumps the idle up , so that makes me believe that my hpop system is still tight .
Any thoughts would be appreciated . Thanks Dave
This made me appreciate working on bmws more. Great vid. Well explained. Now time to get to work.
Old video but i have a question so I’m having crank no start replaced Ipr valve still no start I don’t have any way of knowing the Icp pressure. In the video you didn’t replace the hpop so it was just a seal issue?
Also when it comes to people private OV. It’s all different now they can see what goes into their repairs . Their POV is everything a lot of time too
what kind of sealant did you use to put the cover plate back on in 19:30? will permatex work?
Honestly, I would rather be Cummin than Stroking. But my job has a Ford, and your video may be a great help, after we try the ETC replacement.
have you ever seen one that would max out at @2000psi ? I have done an air leak test from ICP and IPR ports and can find no leaks. I have not popped the cap off the HPOP because it's running and HOT starting but the ICP will not go over 2000PSI with a new ICP.
Great, great video!!! So happy vidoes like yours is on here!!!
have same job to do monday.....excellent video brother....first time i doing one
Great video. Enjoyed the steady camera. Thanks.
Will three glow plugs not working cause a no start or the engine to idle for 10-30 seconds and shut off?
Nice very thorough vids and work i also work at a ford dealer have been with ford since 2007 been at independents for another 15 years watched a handfull of your vids liked the dps vids thanks for the vids keep um coming
Roger that.
Truck died while driving.... then would crank and start then immediately die... added oil and the icp pressure went to the 400 range and wouldn’t even fire. Any thoughts? Always had long cranks to start.
We have a 6.0 that's been sitting with only 16k miles on it. I was told the HPOP needs to changed because the "seals" are dried out...wdyt??
On a no start, is their a chance it could just be the ipr and not the hpop? Or just replace them both because your there already there?!?
thanks for the video. the hpop on my 04 6.0 has been giving me a lot of problems, and I really don't have the money to bring it into the shop.
So when on bench and you turn pump both ways and you hear it pumping and there are no rough spots, the pump is good? Is there another way you can double check it.. Our fitting is definitely loose/worn so most likely that but all that work is lot if the pump is weak?
did your desiel not start hot or cold. mine does not start hot. dealer is srewed me on costs already charge me 2,000 and didnt even fix the problem. still wont start sometimes when hot. and ford are supposed to be experts
I have a 03 6.0 it run for about ten minutes then shuts off and won't start back up
I have a cold And a Hot no start. It will start with starting fluid. A y suggestions would Greatly be appreciated. Also I e doe a have replaced the dummy a stand pipes on both sides and right side nipple cups. I found a bad cup o-ring and did an ICP air test. And replaced the inj orings. It ran great till a out a year ago and. Haven’t worked on it since(I fell off a roof and broke quite a injurious) But now I Need my truck badly! I also noticed that their is exhaut coming from under my water pump? I have alot of $$$ into this but haven’t been able to physically work on it. Feeling better to be able to be able to work on it as much as possible. I live in N.H., so the weather has been pretty bad lately. ANY help or suggestions would be extremely appreciated!
quick question, I just did a hpop upgrade and after everything was put together I can't get it to start and it sounds like it's hydrolocked, any tips what to look for? thanks for videos and keep up the good work!
I have a 2007 6.0 I'm going to do an EGR delete and a oil cooler I heard they upgraded the stc fitting on the 2007's is that true, should I do that as long as I have it apart, is there anything else I should while I have it taken apart?
Hello I was hoping you can help me out. I accidentally dropped a bolt down blow the gears. I've used a scope to try and locate the bolt but I havent been able to now for a day and a half. Is there anyway it might of went into the oil pan?
I have a 06 f250 6.0 it has a rough idle and it has a oil leak in the back im guessing its coming from the oil pump it cut off and wouldn't crank back the pressure gauge stop working but it did crank back after a few trys the pressure gauge went up but it dropped again could it be a oil ring leak on the oil pump or is the pump itself bad
Den brukar silen fastna igen med metallparticklar å ventilen fastnar å kärvar! Men varför vart kommer metallparticklarna ifrån?
I had the HPOP replaced on my 2004 6.0 .. it seems to misfire when I hit 55 to 75 mph. Is that common? If so how long does it take for the air to bleed out?
7:13-7:16 when you say change the back cover, is not it part of the motor. When you say I would definitely change it? Do you mean The motor?
Had this pump replaced probably 50 k ago. I have a symptom that I think I had with the old one but I'm a bit foggy on weather it did this with the old pump. Engine runs nice and quiet for about an hour or so then it develops a distinct "wrrrrrrrrrrr". No crunching grinding or other evil sounds, just the smooth low "wrrrrrrrrrrrrr". It runs smooth, plenty of power. I'm convinced this noise is associated with the pump (even more since I saw you bench check the pump from this truck). My question is have you had this pump noise show up? What can I do to mitigate this problem, minimize the cost to repair the eventual failure? Is it associated with replacement pumps as opposed to new Ford pumps? PS It does this with brand new oil as well as oil that is due to be changed. Also, this engine has been bullet proofed with a new style EGR cooler and a remote oil filter and cooler
I know this may not be related to this topic. Please forgive me. But I've seen a lot of your videos and I noticed that you have a lot of knowledge on the 6.0's powerstroke. I was hopping you may know what could be the problem with mine.
It starts up fine but, once it warms up, it starts shaking at idle specially when it is on drive or reverse. I can also feel it when i'm going down the road, but is not as bad. It almost feels like if a cylinder was missing, but it has no codes. Any thoughts?
On diesels they are not as strictly monitored for misfires etc for emmisions reasons as gas vehicles. So it may not set a code for awhile. I have seen the 6.0l
injectors have misfires only when hot multiple times and every time it is an injector. On our Ford Scan tool we have a live view of the power balance of the engine that will show us misfires that you may or may not feel but will likely not set a code as the misfire duration is too short. I show an example of this here about at the 6min mark and you will see what I am talking about-
Engine Misfires That Feel Like A Harsh Shifting Transmission
So what I am saying is the best way to pinpoint it is to at least have the dealer do this power balance test mention it has to be hot then you can change the injector yourself following my videos if you like to save a little money.
Thanks a lot for responding and for the advise. I will try to get a power balance test asap. Thank you.
How long Long would it take to crank before it fires up? I just did this and replacing my ipr and hope to have everything back together tomorrow
2 minutes
How do you know
You have to start from hpop einsted stand pipes or low pressure pump
How to know where to start from ?
Leak test
Is there a video for the early model 6.0 hpop with the STC fitting that requires a tool?
How many hours does the book say to replace HPOP and how many does it take?!?
Great detailed instructions to the size and type of tools!
Can you still pressurize the oil system through the HPOP before you take off the stc fitting at this point?
How would you know if tne pump could be bad can i put air in the pump once it’s out of engine
Do you have to take the alternator off
what test did lead you to the fitting
Can you tell me about how long the 2007 6.0 should turn over after the injecter test before it starts. Mine will start with cold motor
after about 4 seconds. Is that too slow.
Hi I have a 06 ford f250 diesel and no start but when the towing truck inclined the truck to put the truck down I tried to start and it start right away and the guy put it down with the truck on and it keep working fine then I turn it off and tried to turn it on and it won't start can you help me please
will this fix the oil leak the fitting was causing?
I have a Ford 2007 when running for a limited period and when the engine turns off, it will not work again. What is the solution? Can I send you through your personal page?
عراق الخير mi too my truck
What happens when the branch tube comes loose would that make it loose oil pressure to
Nice video, I have a 2007 f250 that just died rolling on to the interstate. I have a crank no start no code issue but im dead in the water until I can get a scanner hooked up. What is the most common crank no start on the 07's? I'm praying its not the HPOP, I don't want to have to take all that shit off to get to it.
Being 05+... Either the STC fitting. Which is shown in this video, or something went through the IPR screen and is holding the valve open. Dummy plugs will USALLY be a crank no start while hot. Not a shut down.
+Wico Diesel yep this was a while back but I ended up pulling the IPR valve and the screen was blown out. Replaced it with a new one and she cranked right up. Thanks!
Another great video! So what causes this failure?
Bad engineering. It was a snap to connect fitting for assembly efficiency I am sure and it fails over time. A quick connect fitting on a 3000+ psi system is not a good idea.
So no codes and crank-no-start Low ICP right? About how many hours did this truck have?
No codes on this one, usually there will be a low icp engine cranking code eventually P2290 I believe. Not sure on the hours maybe 118k miles though.
Also be aware of two 10mm bolts securing tins between up pipes and bolt to HP oil pump cover and WILL break cover if left in place
Totally just found out about that 😂 the bolt on the bottom beside the two up top is extremely hard to get to if you don't have skinny arms
any time you see 0 ipr? just out of the blu stalled and no start from then
My standpipes blew off the pump and cracked my housing any thoughts
How did you diagnose that it was the STC fitting and not a faulty IPR valve?
by leak testing as shown here- No Start: 6.0L Powerstroke ICP Leak Testing
Will the pump , make the truck not start ?
I like just putting the oil drain back into the cover to keep the dirt out, works great
Great video and a tremendous help. How long did it take to start up? I just replaced my stc fitting and ipr screen . I tried cranking it for a minute or two but my icp says 0.
+DrAsTiC09 if you air tested it should still take 1min or less to start to fire build icp along the way sound like your ipr is stuck open there is a reason I always change them
+FordTechMakuloco
Thanks for the reply. I came home today and hooked up a battery jumper because it sounded like I was not getting full power. The truck started after a minute or so. I let it rune for 10 minutes and shut it off. About 20 minutes later I tried to start the truck and it took a while to kick over. The ipr was is at 25 , the fmp was at 47.5 and the icp while running is around 580. Do you think there is air built up or do I have a leak someplace else. I did an air test and did not hear anything leaking.
+FordTechMakuloco
I forgot to mention if I press on the gas pedal the icp will jump to around 1200-1300.
Hi, I installed a new fitting on my 06 350 and ran air to my icp port
and I can hear air from right behind the hpop gear. Is that normal?
Population Entertainment no. But oil pump needs seals and fitting
Need to close ipr value
great video, I got a 6.0 that I recently purchased, it is leaking oil badly down the trans bell housing, and running off the trans and dripping under the truck. The valley is dry as a bone. Its studded and deleted any ideas what could be back there?
If it is coming from up high by valley but valley is dry, then you likely have a cracked rear cover from a blown STC fitting. You will have to get a good flashlight and check it out on the passenger side. That is the only real leak point for that bad of a leak.
I checked and it seems to be coming from between the hpop cover and where it seals to the rear cover. It has studs and egr delete and the guy I bought it from told me they pinched the seal. Hopefully that's all it is. The truck starts right up hot or cold with no issues
Yeah hopefully that is all but they should not of had to remove the hpop cover or rear cover for any reason though.
To do the head studs...
How much does a job like this cost?
Ran into one of these a week ago customer took it to 3 other techs, replaced HP oil pump 360psi was all icp tested good on modus ultra (snap on) replaced icp cranked and at 400 psi poof started and ran. Just because a sensor tests good doesnt mean its working. Ps Mac tools sells this socket pictured and can be removed w turbo in place.
You’ve had good luck reusing the high pressure pump?
yes
Great video and great quality, thank you so much bro!
No problem hope it helps.
Thanks for your videos! Always saves my butt... my truck thanks you too!
What is the cost to have this done by you
my E450 6.0 leaks oil from the muffler outlet tube it could be the pump and it shuts off
What scanner do you recomend
What sice of soquet you need tobtake oyt the IPR???
I have a 2006 F250 with a 6.0 diesel turbo charged I put a new high pressure oil pump in started up right away but for some reason it seems like it is sucking air I checked all the fittings it seems to be fine when you accelerate it that's when you hear like air being sucked it also has a smell of fuel does anyone know what this could be
I recently changed out the IPR and the truck has been fine for 6 months, now I'm loosing oil pressure at idle. It's an 04 6.0 with 210k and I don't know the history other than it's got the EGR Delete and re-studded. Long cranks but does start and run but loses oil pressure when idle is under 800-1000. Comes back up on throttle. Do you think the ball bearing in the HPOP would be the culprit? I've run a scangauge 2 and the codes are P0198 and P2285. I unplugged the ICP and checked it so that could be one of the codes but tried clearing and they came up again. ICP Voltage koeo is .25......I changed the oil filter housing and cap back to OEM, changed oil, checked plunger and it's working, everything I've read points to the HPOP ball bearing or oil pressure switch but if just the switch it would start normal I would think?? Please advise, you have some great videos they are very helpful!! Thank you!! I'm a new RC truck owner as well, got the Stampede 4x4 VXL with TSM!!
+Bandit W is this an early 04 or a late 04 with the icp in the right hand valve cover? What is the icp at idle and more importantly what is the ipr % when you say its losing oil pressure? How do you know the pressure is low is it from the oil pressure light in the cluster?
Well I was halfway through tearing it apart when I originally left my question. Finished tearing it down last night, I found the hpop was in fact missing the bearing. It's got the old style pump but the ICP sensor is on the passenger valve cover. I guess I got a hybrid!! Anyway I ordered a new hpop and oil tube to replace that also while I'm in there. Hopefully that's the issue!
Nice!
Does anyone know if this is an expensive fix? Took my 6.0 into the shop for this exact issue
If it helps anyone, I had my 06 shut off completely with no start on the highway, started replacing standpipes and dummy plugs but the seals looked ok anyways but found the icp sensor and stc fitting o rings blown apart.
That's what my truck did about 2 years ago and my dad changed the standpipes and dummy plugs with seals so I'm working on the hpop now
i have 2006 6.0 and it died and want restart i scaned it with my mac hand held scanner and p2290 p2617 p2614 came up it said injector control pressure too low and camshaft positioning sensor signal output circuit open any thoughts
This fitting in this video is a real good place to start, but testing the system is best as shown here-
No Start: 6.0L Powerstroke ICP Leak Testing
Don't worry about the cam code that is from the truck dying, concentrate on the low icp situation
HELLO GUYS I WOULD APRECCIATE YOUR HELP I HAVE A 2005 THAT STARTS WELL BUT IN LOW IDLE MY OIL PRESSURE DROPS TO 0 ON MY GAUGE ONCE I ACCELARATE IT GOES BACK TO NORMAL DO YALL THINK I HAVE A OIL PUMP FAILURE ...THANKS
Whuld you have to do to replace a 6.0 with 7.3
What year was that? 04-05?
excuseme what pressure have that pump ?
That's awesome what you have it mounted to?
just propping it up for now on engine and I am using the high lift trans jack as a camera mount for the 3rd person view it is a great idea I can raise, tilt and angle all I want like a real camera support used in movies the guys make fun of me. I want to find this claw device that had a weighted bag on the bottom of it.
Thanks for all your help
Will this Hpop kit fit on 2003 f450 6.0? My truck has low power and hard to crank
Saul Padilla the 03 and early 04 6.0 have a smaller hpop. They are not the same.
i have a 2005 6.0 f350 250k miles on it. I had the oil replaced today at a service station. Also replaced with NEW OEM oil filter and Air Filters. Right after leaving the service station, I noticed my engine runs sluggish and vibrates. I drove the truck around 10 miles and parked to go to a store. Then 1hr later I restarted the truck and it started poorly and felt the vibration from the engine. Drove it for about 500 yards and it died out. Stopped there for a 15 minutes trying to restart it and won't start. After that it restarted again but with low to no power. I drove it around 100 yards very slow 10MPH. Pressing the pedal does not rev the engine up. Then I parked it on the side of the road and it died. Tried to restart it again, it cranks, but won't start.
It was running great before the oil change. Any ideas?
Could the service station have used the wrong type of oil?
What damage if any to the injectors?
Jaمal S3doun In that short a period of time it should of had no problems with any engine oil they put in there. Is the oil level full? Are you using the factory shallow oil cap? How is the oil pressure gauge in the cluster?
+FordTechMakuloco Try to help people and they dont even respond damn, I won't do that to ya man haha.
Thanks for this video! You're a good teacher!
Thanks!
FordTechMakuloco a
Do pumps normally give out all at once are slowly fail I have 2005 and have 180k miles just recently had no start issues would turn the key off recycle a couple of times and finally it would start but now it won't start at all my Ipr cranking immediately goes to 84.7 and my icp reads 350
Never seen one of these pumps fail on this model year very robust. Have you remove the IPR to check for debri?
Not yet didn't want to remove turbo so waiting on my pita socket
I have the exact same issue ipr 85% icp 365psi desired icp 650psi should I pull ipr and check for debri? If there is would replacing the ipr correct the problem? Thanks in advance