I Learned something new on a 6.0 Powerstroke
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- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2022
- You can find me by searching @showmerepair .
Hope this video helps someone fix their truck.
If you have any questions, leave a comment or email me.
chrisbpowerstroke@gmail.com 
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Thanks for being honest about your mistakes and letting us know what it ended up being,Ive always said it takes a good mechanic to say "I dont know,but ill find out"😊
I agree David. Thanks for watching.
@@showmerepair I was "broke down" with no start about 3hr drive from home, so, didn't have a choice, I wished the mechanic would start off with o-rings first, he even did the air test first & still insisted on a new HPOP, you realize these are CAST iron components and rarely fail...SO, I gotta new HPOP when not needed, only have 210,000 miles on my 2005 model., so, bought it new for $37,400 & spent another $14,000 on BS repairs over last 18yrs, so, still under 55 grand for 18yrs use of a F350, Lariat, CC,FX4, SRW pretty good when compared to a new $95,000 comparable F350
@JP-mu3xl I paid $1k for My 2003 F-250 6.0 XLT extended cab 2 wheel drive :-( I paid some lying mechanics $7k to replace 4 injectors and swap a turbo out for a new one I had on hand, they put it soo far up my rear with that repair bill that I will never go to that mechanic shop again. Not to mention they said they will work on it right away and have it back to me within 3 days. I had to wait 3 weeks before they even put it in their garage to work on it. Then another 3 days for them to jerk off, then I had to take it back to them because of a mistake they made that of course I still had to pay for!!! If your in Northern California, never go to "Santa Rosa Diesel!" Since then, I have been replacing all the injectors and turbo myself, and it takes me about 6 hours start to finish for 1 side injector replacements. I just finished the drivers side that they replaced about 7-8 years ago. 2 years ago I had to replace the passenger side(that was a pain due to the air conditioner box in the way of the last injector). Long story longer, I have paid a lot more money into the truck than I paid for it. It's worth probably only $10k and I have just about put that much into it within the last 12 years of ownership. Wish it were a 4x4. That will be my next rig.
Thanks for taking us through the diagnosis of finding the leak. We 6.0 owners love o-rings!😖
Early 6.0 owner. Meh.
Same issue on my 05. Top injector oil rings would wear away after a couple months. Didn’t see any issues with the oil rail, but after researching FTE website found a section that showed the same issue. What happens is that leaks from the nipple seals on the rail causes HPO to spray on the top injector seal, wearing it away. How long the injector seals last depends on how bad the leak is.
First symptom is hard start hot. Then hard start cold. Then no start.
The issue was finally resolved using redesigned nipples from HHC diesel. These nipples are shaped differently, blowing any HPO bypass away from the top injector seal.
Almost 3 years on them, no HPO LEAKS, knock on wood. Truck has almost 250k on the clock.
@@jimcaldwell9357 great information. Thank you!!!!
Mistakenly upvoted myself,lol. Don't know how to remove it.😂
O-rings is what brought down the Challenger Space Shuttle… almost 40 years later, they’re still taking down 6.0s!
I guess something better needs to be invented
@@showmerepair figure that one out and you won’t have to work on trucks anymore!
I am working on a fix for the high pressure oil system. It won’t make me rich but it will sure help a lot of people out.
@@showmerepair I have two LCFs with the 4.5 liter. They got new dummy plugs and stand pipes a few years ago and the new oil pump fitting along with all new injectors… but one of them has a slight hot start hesitation. I’m leaning towards the nipple cup orings.
Do they have the quick connection at the high pressure pump?
I have only replaced the oil nipples once, and we went with HHC version of oil nipples and viton orings. 3 yrs on them in a f650 trashtruck with zero issues, the injectors were replaced with 8 motorcraft remanufactured injectors.
I would highly recommend the HHC's oil nipples, they're a new design, patented. They are made from hardened tool steel, and have a oil leak diverting shield to keep a small leak from destroying the oil seals in the top of the injectors. I am not affiliated with HHC, I just happy to have great parts, without failures.
I second this I have the HHC leak proof nipples as well, I’ve lost track how many years it’s been but they are excellent still going strong! Highly recommend.
you have any parts links for that?, thx!
@@JP-mu3xl
Google HHC Diesel nipple cups and it should go right to it.
I tried to post a link, it didn't work.
Big help!!needed this!
Finally!!!!! Mine has been doing the exact same thing, and I've been stumped!!!!! Best video I've seen about this
Thanks for letting me know it helped. Good luck. These engines can be a pain but with good knowledge and some patience you’ll be running in now time. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions
Top injector oring, pick out old oring, push down tapped washer, then make a holder in a block of wood to hold the injector. Use a punch and hammer and your going to punch c clip down out of Grove and them pick it out
My truck died and that was the problem top oring on the injector was smoked
That's how I do it too.
thank you for this info..and all of the people who helped share there experience on the same subject... god bless you...all...
Great job.
I'm actually having the same issue,new injector seals,stand pipes,hpop orings,and still hearing the air leak, my last thing to do is the injector nipples hopefully it fixes the air leak.
Thanks for your video
I gotta tell you, that you really know your shit! Well done
Had a lot of failures to learn.
Thanks for watching.
By the way I check the upper o rings with an old oil rail nipple I carry, I like to see a heavy feeler gauge pull, the bad o rings actually had clearance around the nipple, maybe .030"
Thanks for making this video
@@ericblanchard5873 your welcome
This video is most informative.
Thank you
Awesome video thx for making it got a lot of knowledge on fixing my 6.0
Happy it helped. Thanks for watching.
Great video
great video!
Good information! Thanks
Your welcome. Thanks for watching
nice work
For the c clip on top of the injector i used a precision flat head screw driver and a regular screw driver end as a hammer to get it to come out some people have their ways but thats what worked for me
Thanks Steve. I’ll try it next time
I appreciate the video. I'm having a high pressure leak that I'm about to chase down and I'm definitely going to watch for this. Heck, given the mileage I'll probably do those O-rings preventatively.
Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to reach out. Thanks for watching.
@@showmerepair Yes sir. I'm still looking for the "spare" time to do it lol Thank you!
Funny story i bought a injector reseal kit when i was fresh on 6.0s off amazon and the lower injector oring was clear. Well i didnt think nothing about it and tossed them in the truck. Less than 5k miles later the clear oring turned to gel and luckily caught it before it really went to shit and hydrolocked a cyl or something stupid
Best most informative video on this i have seen
Thank you
@showmerepair I have put off this repair for quite some time now but actually feel more confident after watching this.
@@showmerepair would a bad IPR cause no start when hot, or just a crank no start situation all around?
Sadly an I’ve seen an IPR cause no start got and cold.
Still learning a lot about these high pressure oil leaks on the 6.0s Mine is a 2006 and is currently down due to a high pressure oil leak. Next step is to by the IPR pressure test fitting to locate the leak, fingers crossed.
Once you understand the system and learn to work on them. It’s not so bad.
@@showmerepair yea, I’m starting feel better and have more confidence. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I have an early 03 and I'm in the middle of replacing mine now.
WOW What a Hand Gernade 6.0 diesel.
You’ve never worked on a 6.4
good video
@@Pdubforever1 thank you
I thought they didn’t leak unless someone messed with them, learned something new like you said maybe hi mileage is the culprit
Truck is still running strong. I was very surprised when I found it.
wow you really have a lot of patience !
If you want to fix things. You have to have patience.
@@showmerepair especially with diesel work.
The C clip pops out easily, just need a small flathead for glasses and a ball peen hammer, knock it downwards then pull it out
Next tip I always test though the ipr location because you can eliminate that unnecessary noise and you can inspect the ipr screen
Your right. I’ve been meaning to get an IPR block off for years. Other part of me doesn’t see the need since I’d been successfully diagnosing them.
I usually command the IPR to 85, I it usually detects a faulty IPR also.
I had number four o ring bad on mine last month and I always change the injector o ring without removing the c clip.
I’ve seen repeat failures with a couple brands of o-rings. What brand I-ring did you use?
I've bench tested the oil rail with some hose, pex and hose clamps
Whatever works to help figure out the leak helps.
Next time you air test with VC off. Take the stand pipe adapter out and put a D plug in its place. Seals the rail so you don’t have the IPR leak down. On the driver side put pressure into ICP port to test.
Good idea
Ive been seeing these fail more often. I think these trucks are just getting old and theyre the next wear item. My biggest tip is to command the IPR to 85% or if you have a spare pigtail you can send 12v to it. Just dont do it for too long i try to not do more than 5 minutes when i use the 12v method. That way you can tell if the IPR is good also.
Great information. Thanks
Something I just had happen about a month ago, - history, I am a qualified tech with 40+ years and the last 8 on 6.0 fords. I cleaned and resealed all of my injectors about 1 year ago, including measuring springs, polishing valves etc. At that time I used an aftermarket seal kit including oil rail nipple o rings. The truck died 2000 miles from home but I do carry tools and parts. The short story is that all 8 of the top injector o rings had shrunk to the extent I had 8 small leaks(no start even slightly warm). I had some top o rings from AP , and some from other suppliers. I picked the stiffer o rings (AP) resealed and away it went. When I returned home I had a coil fail and had to go back into the injectors, forgot to mention I had replaced one injector for poor balance at the time I was resealing the others (this was a spare the I had serviced at the same time as the ones I was now resealing hence same brand of o rings). When I rechecked the upper o-rings while changing the bad coil I found the upper o ring on the replacement injector had already shrunk. This happened in less than 4000 miles. Be careful with the cheap reseal kits! the rest of seals appeared to work fine but I will never install one soft upper seals. The Alliant Power ones appear to be ok, have you come across others?
I’ve had good luck with standard brand and Motorcraft. There is a cheap brand I’ve used from oreilly. I would not recommend the cheap brand.
same problem with alliant upper orings rest of the seals are fine
@@chadthedrywaller6859 perhaps AP has changed, mine are quite old (2006/9)
What brand upper injector d ring o rings did you use. I just got a set of Mahle's. Should I look elsewhere?
@@patrickwelch620 The ones that failed were cheap (probably off shore), Mahle has a good rep and should be fine. If they are really hard and difficult to install I would think they would be good. The cheap ones were really easy to install.
Oil shoots up after injector oil rail is in failure mode and eats nipple o ring
Use HHC nipple kit
I wonder if a piece could be made to redirect oil out of the injector like the 7.3?
Great info
Very informative, thank you! What is the socket you used to remove the nut from the nipple?
Google oil rail nipple socket
yea Im about to replace the IPR and hoping that will fix it, yea I know using the part canon is not the best of ideas, but it almost 18 years old. If not then I'll pressure test it. Got the tool for the pressure test the same time I got the IPR.
Been there done that. I’ve fixed trucks doing that. Other times I’ve had to go back and pressure test.
How many miles did this engine have on it?
Interesting
I use a co2 20 lb bottle instead of shop air easily bring to 1000 psi
Wow! Yea that will definitely find a leak.
If I had a bottle of co2 I’d probably do that as well.
I'm still fighting a '07 6.0. New injector o-rings, stan pipes, dummy plugs, nipple o-rings, hpop, ipr. Still have hot no start. Was building only 30-50psi hot before a replaced everything. Now it hits 350 psi hot when trying to restart. The longer it runs after cold start, the higher the ipr goes until it's at 85% while running, but it's stays around 540-560. It'll run about an hr before it shuts down. Pressure test sounds like leaks on both banks. Can't feel or see a thing. Don't see any mist, spitting, nothing. Tried pouring oil all over and don't hearing gurgling anywhere. Thinking about pulling injectors and having them tested but that'll cost 400. I had the rails off twice on both sides to make sure the o-rings didn't tear. Sick of working on it.
Do you have any misfires?
@@nickhess51 No misfires. I ended up replacing all eight injectors. It started up and ran fine, restarted hot with a longer crank than desired. It ran for 3 days then boiled over. Pure white gel went everywhere. All coolant and oil disappeared and mixed together squirting out of the coolant bottle. A huge mess under the hood. I'm guessing it has a cracked block or something. I've never seen a blown head gasket look like this. Now looking at just finding a replacement engine. $7k dollars down the drain and prob another $8-10k for another engine. Sucks.
Good video. Very informative. Glad to see the actual diag instead of just throwing parts. I have mine on passenger side apart... 2 broke valve cover bolts and 3 of the manifold torx were missing.
Thanks for watching. As these trucks get older I’m seeing more striped valve cover bolts. I’ve had to remove HVAC housing to helicoil valve cover bolt holes. Missing high pressure oil rail torx bolts is just a sign of a crappy mechanic.
I had a no start on my warm engine turned out to be my Ficm went out I had already replaced all the ipr hpop and injectors it would show random low injector 1 pressure and was Ficm all along for my issue but I checked all the other items you touched on
Weird. How did you figure out it was the ficm?
@@showmerepair I did testing on my Ficm and the voltage was wrong sent to be rebuilt and it was shot the capacitors inside were blown I was building the pressure of 500psi in my hoop to try and fire but it just wouldn’t and I kept getting the same code for Ficm performance module low voltage
@@nathanembree3741 Yep I’ve seen that a lot. Just haven’t gotten to make a video on it. Any time there is a P0611, all injector circuit codes or FICM M voltage drops bellow 48v key on engine off. Replace or rebuild ficm.
If a person is rebuilding themself by putting in a new capacitor board. They need to look at the other circuit board and make sure there isn’t any signs of heat damage.
@@showmerepair you are 100% correct as they don’t all look the same I wish I had told you before I sent out to rebuild I am in Oregon so it might have been hard to make a video on it
Question. I thought to do the leak test you needed to turn the key for the ipr to close amd create pressure
It may help but no
I was so hoping you’d show removing that upper c clip. I rebuilt my injectors and couldn’t figure that out.
Sorry. I’ve been trying to figure out a way to do it but no luck yet. Thanks for watching. If I find a way I will definitely share.
@@showmerepair thanks. I’ll do the same if I figure it out. However unlikely. 😂
Standard brand orings seem to soft to me. BWD is horrible. I ordered from Bitteroot diesel
With all the work you did on this truck tracking down the leak, what does a job like this cost? My truck (2007 F250 Power Stroke 6.0) is out of warranty. Thank you for this video.
That’s tough since it’s hard to give a good ball park what you may see in your area. If you find a 6.0 tech that is honest. Really won’t be to bad.
I personally would be in the $1200 range.
I charge half what my local dealers charge for labor.
Sadly a lot of shops think they are gods gift to customers and cars so they charge what the dealers charge.
I appreciate the response, $1200 is a good starting point for costs and that's really what I was looking for, thank you.
You're honest. I repair CNC machinery and sometimes fixing stuff just bites. I'm sorry for laughing. Thanks for the video.
The torque is 100
What is the gurgling sound from
Air and oil leaking from the oil rail
I have a 2005 f350 runs good no check engine light on cuts off after driving a while have to wait 20 mines to start again keep doing it what can it be?
@@Wayman-o4m sounds like a high pressure oil leak. You need to pressure test the high pressure oil system.
If you’re expecting me to tell you it’s a specific part. I won’t do that. I’ve worked on these trucks long enough to know that guessing in the high pressure oil system is a bad idea.
I’ve seen in some forums that it calls for 100 ft-Lbs of torque? The more you torque it the more the o’ring flattens? I’m I wrong? I just got a 04 Ford F350 SD Lariat 6.0 Powerstroke and I’m new to the diesel world, but I am very mechanically inclined, I did head gaskets (Ford Brand) (although Fel Pro I’ve heard they’re good too) ARP Studs I heard it’s a must for these engines,new Glow Plugs & new harness,New IRP,New HPOP,New J-Tube,New Dummy Plugs & Stand Pipes,IPR Research Gen 2 Delete kit(came with truck)although I’m gonna get bulletproof one soon,Complete Injector rebuilt inside,I have spare injector solenoids(10 spares)new batteries,now I’m waiting for my ficms to arrive from ficmfixer in Texas, great guy!!!! I sent 2 ficms to get checked out and both are good,also have an extra good ICP & IPR sensor/valve just in case, I hear so much about these trucks that I’m trying to be ready, oh yeah and Arch oil arrive today, but the spool valves felt pretty good when I did the injector rebuild,no sticking or felt rough sliding in and out, and I did all the oil rail o’rings from HHC but I do need to get the nipple cups from HHC soon, $300 for 8 nipple cups with O’rings,good video man I’m always watching your videos.
Sounds like you’ll have a pretty reliable engine once you’re done. The truck I did this repair on is still running good so I’d say I was ok with that torque. Thanks for watching.
I have a 05 with 288k and a hot no start, it also had a miss like a missfire in a gasser under load on interstate twice. I built a air rail tester for 15.00 and an OTC 6764 IPR controller an I can hear an feel air coming out of oil fill tube on passenger side. Will these cause that or is there another issue causing the miss under load. Starts in under 3 seconds when cold
You could have 2 different problems going on. You may have a weak injector and an oil leak.
I would recommend pulling the valve cover to inspect for air leak. If you have removed both valve covers and no leaks are found. I would inspect connection at high pressure pump.
If you find your oil leak and your valve covers are off. I’d recommend inspecting the injector that is causing the misfire. Check for dtc it may lead you to the injector causing the misfire. Could a high pressure oil leak cause a misfire. It’s not common but it sure could. I’ve learned that anything is possible.
I Always do my air test hot and bump the motor over a few times during air test. I've found several bad orings that way
Yea air test hot helps.
What’s your reason for bumping engine over while doing air test?
@showmerepair a dealer mechanic I know had told me it displaces the oil so that the small leaks that are hard to hear are easier to diagnose. It definitely seemed to help on my 05 but on my 03 it doesn't make a difference
Not saying I know everything but it doesn’t make sense. If you feel it helped then who cares. I may try it next time.
@showmerepair hey I thought the same thing in my head the air is displacing the oil period but shit I had a oring just barely knicked at top of injector on driver side. I was doing my air test on pass side icp port and didn't couldn't hear a leak bumped it over a few times and cyl 3 injector started blowing air instantly. That truck is a 05. My 03 with the log rails it don't make a difference at all.
@showmerepair I'm always willing to try something new especially with 6.0s. It seems like you can learn something new everytime you tear into one. These are by far my favorite diesel to work on next to a 12 v cummins. The 7.3s aren't bad either to work on
man, your boy is running some DIRTY oil
You can lead a horse to water. But you can’t make him drink.
I just replaced the stan pipes, plugs, injector seal kit, nipple o-rings and still have the same leak that I can clearly hear but can't see. Tried pouring oil all over and no gurgling. Took everything back apart to verify and retorque. Still leaking.
A sealed system will always have a leak noise at the pump. Unless you’ve removed the IPR and installed a IPR plug or powered the IPR closed.
Has you engine had the connection at the high pressure pump replaced?
@showmerepair Valve covers are still off and hear the leak basically same place you had in your video. Sounds like the top of two injectors, but both injector seals and nipple seals are new. Can't feel the air but def hear it by the rail.
Have you tried to start the engine?
You may have an air leak but not an oil leak. I’d partially put things back together.
Lay valve covers on engine. Hook ficm up. Hook any coolant lines up. You can leave charge pipes off. Crank the engine. You may have fixed your leak.
Try to start the engine.
If it starts. Shut it off and redo air test. See if you can still hear the leak. With the oil in the system, if it does leak it will gurgle and spray the oil some. You might be able to see the area leaking
@@showmerepair Will do, thanks!
I chased many leaks in the past and rebuild the injectors on the 6.0. the injector seals last for approximately 10k miles and starts to leak again. what seal kits are you using? good information
I don’t have enough experience with them yet to recommend or warn to stay away. Will definitely update if I have any info. 10k sounds pretty low. I’ve seen o-rings fail sooner if an injector is leaking fuel into the oil.
lower ur fuel pressure
Alliant power ap0002 is the best injector reseal kit I have found!!! There decent enough that ford sells them if u need a complete reseal kit as the motorcraft kit don't come with orings for the top of injector.
It depends on which seal is going bad. If it's a top injector seal failure, like the one shown here, it's almost always caused but one of the injector cup seals in the oil rail above it. Once the oil rail seal starts to fail, it sprays high pressure oil into the injector seal below and destroys it. If you're talking about one of the lower injector seals, I have had good luck with the alliant seal kits. I'm running HHC seals for the oil rails and have about 40K miles so far. I didn't replace the nipples.
Can you stop the air from going through the ipr ,so you no for sure the first time or is just a pain to get to ,,,thanks for videos,,
www.freedomracing.com/6-0-ipr-att-6-0l-powerstroke-high-pressure-oil-system-ipr-air-test-tool.html
www.freedomracing.com/injection-pressure-regulator-ipr-controller-6764.html
Here are 2 options for doing what your asking.
The first requires the IPR to be removed.
The second requires the connector to be removed from IPR.
I’ve not used either because I spent years without it. Doesn’t mean they can’t help diagnose faster. My plan is to get both tools and review them.
Thanks for watching.
@@showmerepair thanks for fast reply, you think you could make one a lot cheaper then that price, just for the person working on his own truck ,,but hay thanks for the help and videos, good day
If a person had an old IPR they could make a plug.
Electric tool could be made
I just watched your video and loved the explanations. I do have a fast question, maybe somebody smarter than me could help me with. Last summer I changed the head gaskets on my 2006 Ford F350. I changed everything that I could change. Everything was done to spec. and when I fired it, the fumes was so bad you couldn't stand to be near it and it ran very poorly. Guy I knew did a cylinder contribution test and found two cylinders on the odd side of motor not contributing. What should I do next? Change the o- rings on the injectors? Change the injectors? I'm at a loss. Thank you for any help.
@@tomclark3592 what did you torque the injector hold down bolt?
Show me state, where’s your shop located?
Jefferson City Missouri
Did you say 155 ft lbs to torque the nut on the rail nipple?
Yes I was torquing to 155. I just looked at a couple places online. 75 to 100 Lbft is what I’m seeing. The truck I did the repair on is still going strong.
Check high presser oil pump
Why?
Is the air test through the IPR any different or better than through the ICP?
When air testing through icp, you’ll have a leak at the IPR. It’s best to then get the tool that commands the IPR on.
When air testing through IPR, there is no need to command IPR on since it will be removed.
I air test at IPR since I’ve done it that way for years. I’m use to hearing the IPR leak. I’ve been thinking about getting the air tester at the IPR.
I also air test at the ICP since it easier to get to.
Yes, much easier. Especially when you have big hands. Thanks for replying. Your channel is great 👍🏽
Your welcome. Thank you for watching. I’m working on videos but I’m starting to get a lot more business. Not complaining that I have more work. But wish I had more time to make videos
Había mucho
You can change the o rings without removing the C clip ,I did it you just have to be patient and there is a RUclips video on how to change these o rings.
How many stock cats have u seen fail? I’m gettin a p2262 code. And I’ve done all the usual suspects. Clean turbo /ebp sensor pigtail n pipe /vgt n pigtail. I think my cat is shit. And I just found my 8 injector is at zero value. So I’m planning on doing Atleast that side injectors and d plugs n stand pipes. And if it’s not a super pain I’ll do that to other side too.
I’ve seen several fail. Make sure your map sensor line to the intake manifold is not cracked or plugged.
To test if your car is plugged. Take the 2 15mm Nuts connecting the down pipe to cat loose. Make sure there is a small gap between the pipes after removing the nuts. Go test drive. If no performance change. Then I would suspect you have another issue
@@showmerepair yup. I check map n the tube. Map few months old. I swapped it. Last time I did some work. I’m gunna gut cat or cut out n put pipe. I live in fla. No inspection. My buddy been on me for havin one. None of my diesel guys hv one. On anythin older. I’m a 6.0 guy. Thru n thru. Had duramax for years n I liked the ride but I love my 6.0 motor. Cool thanks man.
@@showmerepair my cat seems to be welded in place. Like truvk didn’t hv one and they put it on
Aftermarket cats are junk. They fail more than stock these engines.
i was really hoping you was going to show me how to get that clip out.i replaced all 8 orings on a nearly new injectors when i replaced my nipply cups and orings,..it didnt work for me.. i got around 5k on the first upper oring then a few thousand miles every injector oring after that
If I learn how I’ll definitely share.
If your having o-ring failure that much. Check your oil for excessive fuel. I’ve had customers that go to long on oil changes and have excessive o-ring failure. Had a customer not to long ago started having oil leaks and drivability issues. Engine was making oil. I found some of the injector o-rings that seal the fuel in the head were leaking. Installed new injector o-ring kit. Cleaned out the injector bore with a brass brush also. Fixed concern
@@showmerepair heads are fairly new kdd and ive yet to see any hard to remove build up in my injector bores. i alway blow out the bolt holes and follow correct torque specs, and never a promblem with the replacement injectors only the injectors that i tried to replace that oring. Something to them upper orings.
maybe the standard brand reseal kit is the way to go, i used allience i think?
im scared to try it again so i just replace the injector when the oring goes bad.. Ive got 8 fairly new injectors that i didnt want to send back as cores and would be willing to try it again if i could get that clip out of there
Its not terribly difficult the C clip. although OEM injectors typically don't have a lip to grab on the C clip. so you're just stuck holding 2 small flatheads with one hand and hitting the other, you really need something to hold the injector in place in a vise. like a block of wood with drilled hole the same diameter i had a blown out top O ring on a injector had to remove the O ring. C clip needed to come out. they typically give them to you with injector reseal kits anyhow.
@Justn Saliga I seen a few youtube videos of guys doing it that way, I just ended up with a bunch of broken little screw drivers.
'Ive got a Issue on my 03'with no codes think its a weak HPOP the truck runs and starts nice. But at WOT @3500 its like I'm bouncing off a rev limiter. When i use forescan the hpop isn't going over 2500 psI. will a bad leak or injector do it? i swapped out my ICP and IPR with no change . My FICM voltage looks good and ive got 60pds of fuel
Doesn’t sound like hpop. Sounds like your torque converter isn’t working properly. You should be able to monitor rpm, input shaft, output shaft speeds.
You may also be able to monitor torque converter slip
@@showmerepair I haven't been able to dig out my laptop yet but I took my 03' to town and I think your right about the tq converter. I never really noticed it till you said something but it feels like its stuck in lockup, Also over a year ago i had to replace the trans temp sensor but after swap it out I had to get a new pcm to fix it.
If the converter is locked then it’s like a clutch that is engaged.
Think of it like a clutch. Push clutch pedal down. Converter unlocked.
Clutch pedal released/ foot off clutch pedal. Converter is locked.
It sounds like your converter is unlocked from what you explained.
But sadly your converter doesn’t even sound like it’s operating correctly unlocked.
@@showmerepair Ahh that makes more sense lol. Probably been unlocked since i got it. I just figured trans felt different from my other 6.0s due to running 38's on stock gears and never really drive it much.Hasnt been reg in years cause cali emissions. lol Only thing i'm pissed about I recently had a spare low time trans that I donated to some dumbass kid who used to work for me
2yrs out of stand pipe ? Changin a 10 month old OEM one now
I’ve not seen repeat failure like other people. Though I do see other repeat failure on other o-rings when cheap oil and Rotella oil is used. As well as fuel diluted oil. If your oil level raises between oil changes it is either a sign of coolant getting in or fuel.
I have heard of this upgrade stand pipe
www.dieselsite.com/2004.5-2010dieselsite60lstandpipes.aspx
@@showmerepair usually get best results outa motorcraft but dunno what happened, maybe made during pandemic. I needed something right away this time and Amazon couldn’t ship motorcrafta until next week so I got meshimottos or however that’s spelled, should be here before 9
How do you check or troubleshoot which oring leaking fuel into the crankcase on an injector. I've changed the orings and copper washers on all the injectors already but still getting fuel in the oil. Is this common problem? Vehicle is a 04 6.0 powerstroke and I don't have any blowby either..Thanks..
It’s not common but can happen.
The way I’ve had to do testing before. Add dye to to fuel. Remove valve covers and oil rails. Run lift pump. Using a black light, Look around the injectors in the cylinder head.
@@showmerepair Ever try shop air to the fuel rails, and if so how much psi would you use?
@@crushingthepyramid1641 I have not. Plumbing it up sounds like a pain. Fuel pressure max is around 65 to 75.
I feel using air would possibly lead to misdiagnosis. Air is thinner then fuel.
Fuel into the oil would usually be the second o ring from the tip (black), I have heard of leaks from the injector body but have never seen it myself
@@crushingthepyramid1641 theres a Fuel rail test port has air fitting on it you can get on amazon for about 7 bucks. replaces your banjo bolt with one with the Fitting. and you can pressurize it or hook up a fuel pressure gauges i bought 4 of them just because.
155 ft pounds? ive seen 100 ft lbs online so ill try that next. im having the same exact issue thanks!
I’m not gonna say my way is right. It worked for me. Your right I’ve seen torque specs from 75 to 100.
Definition Of Breakaway Torque For Threaded Fasteners
Breakaway torque is the rotating force required to "break" the head loose, going in the same direction as
applied - tightening. This will usually give a value HIGHER than the original tightening torque because
dynamic (when the bolt was tightened) is lower than static (when you try to break loose the bolt head).
This is how it is defined by torque testing standards. If the breakaway is measured in reverse (loosening),
you will usually get even higher readings because the bolt head generally "digs in" and forms small burrs
and indents THAT ARE DIRECTIONAL - like a ratchet. It is incorrect to check breakaway by loosening.
Keep in mind that "breakaway" occurs instantly and ANY turning beyond that point will produce furthe
tightening, not breakaway, and give false high readings. Breakaway is best checked with a torque
wrench/instrument designed for that purpose. It is very difficult to check breakaway manually with any
accuracy.
Another definition of "Torque Breakaway" is "the point at which torque applied to the a fastener restarts
he fastener in a positive(tightening) direction." The restarting movement is characterized by a
momentary drop-off in torque followed by an increase in torque (as mentioned above) with further rotation
in the positive direction. Checking this manually, the operator would apply torque slowly and feel for the
breakaway point, RELEASING the wrench at that moment, and looking at the high limit reached on the
wrench. You can see that the turn DIRECTION and technique are critical to proper testing.
OEM nipple cup torque spec is 100ft/lbs. Where did u get the 155ft/lb spec at? I think u said breaking torque was 145tt/lbs?
Also did u notice if cup moved pretty easy on any that were leaking mmk it nesscary this time possibly another time with a diff truck thatcthhe cup seals where leaking have you noticed if they were sloppy prior to orings being changed and then they took alil effort to move it after they were torqued
I was figuring that break away torque may be less than actual torque so I added to the torque when I went back together.
I have noticed some feel pretty loose. I’d still want to air test.
I’m going to hit 120 then go alil at a time. What sucks is to assemble everything and it still leaks. Airtest I hear it but I can’t tell if it’s leaking for not around nipple cup. Thanks appreciate the reply also. A lot of hosts don’t reply at all 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Your welcome. I appreciate you watching the video.
3:24 me 15 minutes after eating Taco Bell
I put all 8 new injectors in my 6.0 # 4 was the problem, so after swapping them all out truck ran like brand new then after 30 min of driving it start missing and then I got a code P0266 say something wrong with cylinder2 any ideas!
P0266 is identify cylinder #2 not firing correctly. Did you torque the injector hole down bolts to 24-26 lbft ?
@@showmerepair i honestly didn’t put a torque wrench on it
If they are not torqued correctly it can cause combustion to burn up the copper washer.
If it has damaged the copper washer then that and the seals need to be replaced.
@@showmerepair thank you let pull it and see
@@fastass68camaro you welcome. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions.
I’ve ran into a similar issue right now just done my heads and all new orings stand pipes dummy plugs while nine yards. But when I pressure test with air it sounds like air is coming from deeper than the injectors on the passenger side. And it won’t build any pressure at all any tips?
Maybe IPR or connection at high pressure pump.
What year?
@@showmerepair 2006 went with kdd oring heads on rebuild also only thing I haven’t replaced is the stc fitting. It’s just weird because it ran fine until I pulled it in to do the heads now nothing won’t build any oil pressure at all. Just haven’t been able to find anyone that has this issue it sounds like the air is just passing right through no restriction at all
@@showmerepair also I was doing the test through the ipr had a buddy that already had a checker made to do it that way
So your going back together after installing cylinder heads? Now you can’t build any pressure?
@@showmerepair yes won’t build any at all but when I air test it. It sounds like air is coming out the passenger side but everything is new and the sound sounds like it is coming from below.
Te puedo contactar ?? Dejamelo saber amigo tengo un casi igual al tuyo tambien hizo lo que tu hiciste pero no puedo mas
Chrisbpowerstroke@gmail.com
Ill try to help
🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺👍👍👍👍
I have same issue but I put in a new ford ipr valve and it still won't start ,I'm getting fuel in the cup and oil is filling in the filter and the injectors are working ,same as the fuel pump is priming...I'm at a loss it does have a egr delete ...
Not trying to be rude but nothing you just said gave me much info on what could be wrong.
Do you have a scan tool you can watch data on?
@@showmerepair it threw a egr valve...but the egr is deleted...so I'm stuck
That doesn’t make any sense either.
Do you have a scan tool to check codes and data?
@@showmerepair codes are egr ,b1359 code and u1950..
Well since you have an egr delete and highly doubt the codes are turned off.
You most likely have egr circuit codes and egr performance codes.
The b1359 and U code most likely are not effecting the way the engine runs.
None of the codes your getting are an indication of the issues your having.
It was the nipple in my case and after the mechanic replaced the HPOP, he found the nipple's leaking, & I got to pay $5,000 for that job.... friggin mechanics...I'm gonna DIY from now on, or sell the Ford POS 6.0 diesel an donly have a mercedes diesel
I like to remove the IPR and air test it there.
Yea that kit is nice. I’ve thought about getting that tool.
Nice cap!!!
I have 205,000 miles. On her
Don't use the standard brand parts they absolutely won't stand behind there shit parts. I understand when your in a pinch u got to do what u have to do
Just sold my 6.0. Still work on them. Went back to a gas job. I don’t need a diesel. Bought a chevy
I still don’t have a running diesel. I don’t tow real heavy enough to justify a diesel. Gas engines are way cheaper to fix.
@@showmerepair I agree. I’ve worked on 6.0 and 7.3 for ten years. Even routine maintenance is expensive
Соленоид может травить воздух.
I translated what you said. “The solenoid may be leaking.”
I’ve never seen a leak at the solenoid. But I won’t say it couldn’t ever be a problem.
@@showmerepair При подаче воздуха в форсунку, идёт утечка из верхних крайних отверстий. У меня 3 форсунки пропускали воздух, и это не связано с уплотнением в центральной части форсунки. Я попробую сделать видео. Сам соленоид подвисает и магниты не в состоянии регулировать положения.
@@user-vo5sh3oo3u it sounds like you need new spool valve body. The spool valve is sticking in the bore.
I don’t know where to buy the spool valve body.
You can try using a fine grit sand paper on the spool valve. I’ve used 2000 grit.
You may have to sand the bore of the spool valve as well.
Be very careful. You won’t want to take a lot off.
@@showmerepair Ватсапп есть? Списаться можно с Вами? Контакт?
@@user-vo5sh3oo3u I don’t do WhatsApp. You can email me
chrisbpowerstroke@gmail.com
An o-ring brought down a Shuttle…just saying.
I wouldn’t recommend using a 6.0 in a plane
You should learn how to smoke
I learned 15 years ago don’t buy a power stroke
Lol. It’s not for everyone. A customer had a 2004 duramax towed to me. I believe it has a broken crank. Sadly that’s common. All diesel of this era had series issues
What are you using to put air too it
I used the threads and base of an old icp sensor to adapt to air line fitting
Got one in shop. Icp is reading 153. Only starts on ether. Think im gonna do the stand pipes and plugs
Is it hot no start or cold no start?
@showmerepair it started out as a hot no start. Now it won't start at all without juice
@@showmerepair stand pipes did the trick. These trucks and orings are something else lol
Great video
Thanks for watching