Now connect one of those desulphator pulse devices on, leave it for two days, recharge and connect another day, recharge and test it again. I was able to bring back batteries from „replace“ to „good battery“ with this.
Times move on, in my day we used a duride high-rate discharge tester and was very trustworthy. Must always be used on a fully charged battery and before testing use low air pressure to remove any venting gas as arcing of tester probes on battery terminal could cause an explosion. New testers are safer but are they reliable. Thank you for the nice video.
I'm still a load tester kind of guy. I do have a cheapy battery tester that I do use sometimes but I'm more confident with the old school. The biggest advantage I have found is the size. My little tester fits in the toolbox. Having watched this I may have to do a rethink about it. Good to see you my friend.
Hmmm…Interesting the differing evaluations. I wonder how battery temperature will influence results, as lower temps will obviously lower capacity. Not sure if any of the testers are actually factoring that🤔 I like the clock analogy, never heard that before. Cheers Matt 👍
The temp must make a difference to the results. I think my old load tester said to use a scale lower when cold. My new topdon doesn't mention anything to do with temperature. Cheers Matt
Hi, I've got the same topdon tester. But I'm not sure if it's gives correct information whether to replace The battery or not. Reason I say this when I broke down with my car due to a bad battery and placed a brand new varta battery. Checked it with the tester before installing it said *good battery* But after couple of days driving I checked it again and it then said replace??? Voltage was fine at 12.6 alternator charging great at 14v. Health on tester was 86%. It's a 760 cca battery and still had 620cca. The resistance I can't remember. Also tested starter and was fine. So why does it tells me to replace then. It's a brand new battery? It's also gave different result whether I choose the EN setting or CCA setting? I'm really questioning this tester?
I’ve got one matt, put it on the my mini and it said bad , checked Joanne’s mini it said good, I bought another brand new agm same as one you coded and it said bad too
A car needed a battery, slow crank. the load tester showed it to be ok, unless it was a cranking test, then it showed it was a weak battery. The new load tester showed it to need the battery replacing. However it shows a lot of batteries need replacing that are still starting the car. I think I now still prefer the load tester,
Now connect one of those desulphator pulse devices on, leave it for two days, recharge and connect another day, recharge and test it again.
I was able to bring back batteries from „replace“ to „good battery“ with this.
Nice bit of kit 👍 them napa batteries are pants, replaced loads of them under warranty, refuse to buy and fit them now
Times move on, in my day we used a duride high-rate discharge tester and was very trustworthy.
Must always be used on a fully charged battery and before testing use low air pressure to remove any venting gas as arcing of tester probes on battery terminal could cause an explosion.
New testers are safer but are they reliable. Thank you for the nice video.
I'm still a load tester kind of guy. I do have a cheapy battery tester that I do use sometimes but I'm more confident with the old school. The biggest advantage I have found is the size. My little tester fits in the toolbox. Having watched this I may have to do a rethink about it. Good to see you my friend.
Hmmm…Interesting the differing evaluations. I wonder how battery temperature will influence results, as lower temps will obviously lower capacity. Not sure if any of the testers are actually factoring that🤔 I like the clock analogy, never heard that before. Cheers Matt 👍
The temp must make a difference to the results. I think my old load tester said to use a scale lower when cold.
My new topdon doesn't mention anything to do with temperature.
Cheers Matt
lovley stuff matt good review
Hi, I've got the same topdon tester. But I'm not sure if it's gives correct information whether to replace The battery or not. Reason I say this when I broke down with my car due to a bad battery and placed a brand new varta battery.
Checked it with the tester before installing it said *good battery*
But after couple of days driving I checked it again and it then said replace???
Voltage was fine at 12.6 alternator charging great at 14v.
Health on tester was 86%. It's a 760 cca battery and still had 620cca.
The resistance I can't remember.
Also tested starter and was fine.
So why does it tells me to replace then. It's a brand new battery?
It's also gave different result whether I choose the EN setting or CCA setting?
I'm really questioning this tester?
How's employment going?
I’ve got one matt, put it on the my mini and it said bad , checked Joanne’s mini it said good, I bought another brand new agm same as one you coded and it said bad too
Don’t throw your sealey away just yet
What makes you think the new tester is correct and the old load tester is not?
A car needed a battery, slow crank. the load tester showed it to be ok, unless it was a cranking test, then it showed it was a weak battery.
The new load tester showed it to need the battery replacing.
However it shows a lot of batteries need replacing that are still starting the car.
I think I now still prefer the load tester,