Got to review You! Long but, you covered every aspect of the device on multiple vehicles. I like the magnet on the box as well. But every detail covered as silly as they may be. I have had a BT100 for 3+ years and it has saved me the cost of 2 battery replacements so far. And properly condemed a 2016 CX5 battery that was only 3 years old. At -15 temps it showed its short comings. Your review convinced me to purchase the 200 for myself and pass the BT100 on to a freind that was looking at it this past weekend. (Was just going to send him a new BT100.) You changed my mind. Suprised you don"t have more comments but it's such a infomative and hands on review you left no questions unanswered. Keep it up, Great job!
just bought one of these ,,,non complicated, self explanatory, seems to work well, has the feel of GOOD solid professional quality, including the leads and clamps......and as you said has a great storage box to keep it safe and tidy ,,, WELL thought out ,,,,,,,,, thanks for the good real world use review
Though I didn't buy the topdon, I bought another import model and I've had the chance to compare it with a midtronics on about 6 batteries, the readings compare very well. I've also been monitoring my own car battery for the last 4 years, being able to keep an eye on the yearly degradation, the battery is now 7 years old and then showing up borderline at 50 percent health,. That I've got warning to replace it before I actually get issues... Doing it this summer
Have found with mine that the terminals must be spotlessly clean to obtain consistent results. Cleaned mine with sandpaper before testing as I was getting considerably different readings from terminals that looked clean enough originally but obviously were not.
Good vlog and I have just purchased one , although I can connect the positive ok I just cannot get the negative lead clamp to go on as it’s way to narrow and tight to reach at the back on my van btw it’s a Ford transit connect 🧐
Thanks for your video and your time. It seems a bit confusing the charging test. Do you have to increase RPM first and then let the engine go back to idle and then press enter? Or do you have to press enter while the engine is high at 2500 rpm? Also, what does "loaded" means? I didn't see you turning on the lights, fan, stereo, etc, etc. Thanks 👍 for your time and help
The rpm increase is more for older alternators, most modern ones charge at full capacity on idle, older ones with single non rib belts had to be spun faster to get full charge, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hi! Good review, I have bought one BT200 myself. But, now to a real question. First battery, it is rated 540A according to EN std. 540A (EN). So logic says, choose EN std on BT200. But, on BMW battery it says "900A CCA (SAE)" Shouldn't the BT200 then input 900A according to SAE std? I see u choose CCA std on the BT200.
Thats a bit of a myth, you can jump start a bmw from the battery its just better to do it from the front to avoid all the connectors and sensors around the battery, as for testing its better on the battery, bit it can also be done from the front, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
On the 107. It was saying that before charging health was 7% but after a few minutes charging the meter was showing 19% health. This is confusing for me, why health of the battery depends on the charged status? What is then the bit that tell us how healthy the battery is really?
@@aaanton11 reply to myself and for anybody, the health status it is just the starting current measured percentage of the rated theorical one manually input. Therefore the more charged the more starting current and healthier percentage.
The top don B20 is pretty cheap and comes with an app for the phone or tablet Does the same tests but you can sit in the car while you do them and read the info on the app.
I just bought a new 12v 100ah gel battery (leisure) from Photonic Universe and it does not indicate anywhere on it the Test Standard info (eg the 540/EN bit in your video). I am clueless as to what setting to use at this point and what value to change it to. Any ideas ?
Amp Hours (Ah): 100Ah Cold Cracking Amp (CCA): 750CCA Length: 353mm Width: 175mm Height: 190mm This should be about right, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 As I only have the 100Ah value to work with, it would seem I am only really supposed to select the ‘GB’ setting as this covers the race 30 - 220 Ah. One would think 100Ah would comfortably give a decent feedback using this setting. But it quite clearly states Battery health very low. The simplest thing in the world, and is confusing.
I've been working in the industry for over 11 years, testing batteries over 5 times daily. You always ALWAYS test a battery by hooking your tester directly to its terminal. If you do otherwise, 10 times out 10 you will get ( Replace ) unless the battery is new. Try to test the same battery (in car) 2 times ( directly and from under the hood ) and tell me what you get, if the results aren't way off, I'm a living monkey 😎
Got to review You! Long but, you covered every aspect of the device on multiple vehicles. I like the magnet on the box as well. But every detail covered as silly as they may be. I have had a BT100 for 3+ years and it has saved me the cost of 2 battery replacements so far. And properly condemed a 2016 CX5 battery that was only 3 years old. At -15 temps it showed its short comings. Your review convinced me to purchase the 200 for myself and pass the BT100 on to a freind that was looking at it this past weekend. (Was just going to send him a new BT100.) You changed my mind. Suprised you don"t have more comments but it's such a infomative and hands on review you left no questions unanswered. Keep it up, Great job!
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
just bought one of these ,,,non complicated, self explanatory, seems to work well, has the feel of GOOD solid professional quality, including the leads and clamps......and as you said has a great storage box to keep it safe and tidy ,,, WELL thought out ,,,,,,,,, thanks for the good real world use review
Cracking bit of kit, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Though I didn't buy the topdon, I bought another import model and I've had the chance to compare it with a midtronics on about 6 batteries, the readings compare very well. I've also been monitoring my own car battery for the last 4 years, being able to keep an eye on the yearly degradation, the battery is now 7 years old and then showing up borderline at 50 percent health,. That I've got warning to replace it before I actually get issues... Doing it this summer
Thanks Jusb1066 for the great information 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Thoroughly enjoyed this video.. Purchased one delivery tomorrow to check 3 batteries..Thanks 👍
Glad it helped Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
The most crucial reading is the internal resistance, once you see it above 6mΩ the plates are sulfated and the battery is kaput.
Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Very good information
Have found with mine that the terminals must be spotlessly clean to obtain consistent results.
Cleaned mine with sandpaper before testing as I was getting considerably different readings from terminals that looked clean enough originally but obviously were not.
Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Great video, many thanks from Sweden 👍
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Good vlog and I have just purchased one , although I can connect the positive ok I just cannot get the negative lead clamp to go on as it’s way to narrow and tight to reach at the back on my van btw it’s a Ford transit connect 🧐
Connect it to the engine earth, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 many thanks 🙏 for that I shall try take care 👍👍
Thanks for your video and your time. It seems a bit confusing the charging test. Do you have to increase RPM first and then let the engine go back to idle and then press enter? Or do you have to press enter while the engine is high at 2500 rpm? Also, what does "loaded" means? I didn't see you turning on the lights, fan, stereo, etc, etc.
Thanks 👍 for your time and help
The rpm increase is more for older alternators, most modern ones charge at full capacity on idle, older ones with single non rib belts had to be spun faster to get full charge, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Was hoping you would test with the top don And then immediately test with one of the others and see how they directly compare
That one has been done already, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Seems like a nice bit of kit .Shame about the package waste ,better off supplying a basic box with a neoprene case to keep it in
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I only wish they had longer cables. good tool
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
How long are the cables?
GREAT JOB!!
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Nice bit of kit 👌
It does a job which can be hard to gauge without one, Thanks Norm for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hi! Good review, I have bought one BT200 myself. But, now to a real question. First battery, it is rated 540A according to EN std. 540A (EN). So logic says, choose EN std on BT200. But, on BMW battery it says "900A CCA (SAE)" Shouldn't the BT200 then input 900A according to SAE std? I see u choose CCA std on the BT200.
Just go with what is on the battery, some are rated en some cca Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Could you recommend a not too expensive OBD11 fault code reader that works with fords and can clear codes Thanks
You need to be looking at something like this one, amzn.to/3LcZJoE Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
You can't charge or jump start a BMW direct off the battery. Is it OK to use a tester direct onto the battery?
Thats a bit of a myth, you can jump start a bmw from the battery its just better to do it from the front to avoid all the connectors and sensors around the battery, as for testing its better on the battery, bit it can also be done from the front, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
On the 107. It was saying that before charging health was 7% but after a few minutes charging the meter was showing 19% health. This is confusing for me, why health of the battery depends on the charged status? What is then the bit that tell us how healthy the battery is really?
The battery will always test better if it has been charged, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 reply to myself and for anybody, the health status it is just the starting current measured percentage of the rated theorical one manually input. Therefore the more charged the more starting current and healthier percentage.
Top Dong, the ladies said so.
😂 Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
The top don B20 is pretty cheap and comes with an app for the phone or tablet
Does the same tests but you can sit in the car while you do them and read the info on the app.
It looks a great bit of kit, Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I just bought a new 12v 100ah gel battery (leisure) from Photonic Universe and it does not indicate anywhere on it the Test Standard info (eg the 540/EN bit in your video). I am clueless as to what setting to use at this point and what value to change it to. Any ideas ?
Amp Hours (Ah): 100Ah
Cold Cracking Amp (CCA): 750CCA
Length: 353mm
Width: 175mm
Height: 190mm
This should be about right, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 👍 Where did you get this info from cos I’m buggered of I could find it. I’ll give it a try.
@@aaanton11 Battery Heath 2% !!! Replace !!
I’ll have to contact the manufacturers on Monday. Something aint right
@@aaanton11 As I only have the 100Ah value to work with, it would seem I am only really supposed to select the ‘GB’ setting as this covers the race 30 - 220 Ah. One would think 100Ah would comfortably give a decent feedback using this setting. But it quite clearly states Battery health very low.
The simplest thing in the world, and is confusing.
@@srb4722 Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
I've been working in the industry for over 11 years, testing batteries over 5 times daily.
You always ALWAYS test a battery by hooking your tester directly to its terminal.
If you do otherwise, 10 times out 10 you will get ( Replace ) unless the battery is new.
Try to test the same battery (in car) 2 times ( directly and from under the hood ) and tell me what you get, if the results aren't way off, I'm a living monkey 😎
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
So this model does nothing that the BT100 cannot do. Why pay more? I bought a non-branded BT100 for $15. It works just fine. No reason to pay more.
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠