How to adjust bands and change automatic transmission fluid
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- This is a demonstration of how I tightened the bands of my automatic transmission and changed the transmission fluid and filter. The vehicle is a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 with a 46RE transmission. This repair was done after a transfer case repair which required removal of the propeller shafts. With the front shaft out of the way, access to the front band adjustment screw was better than normal. It is possible to do this with the shaft in place, but access for demonstration is not as good. For details of how the propeller shaft is removed, see my other videos on repairing a Dodge transfer case oil leak.
Note that the details of how this is done, especially the torque settings and the number of rotations backward after ideal torque, are very specific to the 46RE transmission. Be sure the locknut is backed off enough that it doesn't bottom out when the adjustment screw is tightened. Before ever doing this type of procedure yourself, you should consult the dealers repair manual and verify the specific procedure in your car.
This is an amateur demonstration done for entertainment purposes only. The information offered here is given in good faith but with no guarantees of accuracy or safety. Any misadventure you encounter if you decide to do maintenance on your own vehicle is your responsibility.
Short clip of music midway through is royalty free music "The Messenger", from RUclips creation tools, author unknown. Thunderclap sound used under Creative Commons 3.0 license, done by RHumphries at freesound.org/p...
Great video, As a technician and shop owner that built race engines and vehicle restorations from the frame up for over 14 years its refreshing to see good work and documentation. My customers always got a CD of their works being done plus hundreds of HD pics with their service or any work performed. No extra charge, but it was the best CYA too! but in 14 years I NEVER had one come back due to bad or improper work, The job was done right the first time every time and additional things were always maintained as preventative maintenance to help them and me. I closed my shop to go into LE and due to an on the job injury I'm now terminally ill and disabled, I miss wrenching. Keep up the good work!
I was thinking the same thing. Except that weird nut thing. Because you can use an SAE 12 point and it will fit as it should. On all square nuts whatever an open-end wrench fits, go to the opposite. Basically what I'm saying is if it's metric go to ASE, if it is SAE go to metric.
I have an issue with my transmission band that controls reverse, and low gears and this video has helped out tremendously in guiding me to fix my truck, thank you for being so detailed! Awesome work!👍🏼
Remember to remove the check valve in the oil cooler line to the cooler in the radiator. It will eventually plug up with dirt from the trans and your vehicle will pop out of overdrive. From overheating. Found that on a forum. Check valve right by the front of the oil pan on the passenger side. It looks like an oversized flare fitting.
Does that apply to a 93 jeep Cherokee XJ as well ??
Fantastic video, thanks for posting. I own a 2001 Ram 1500, same transmission. It's good to know there are folks like yourself posting these DIY videos for those of use who prefer to work on our own vehicles. Thanks again, and please keep the Gen II Ram videos coming.
Disappointed you didnt go through the math formula for calculating the torque! It would the first time i ever saw a practical application of a cosine! Great video- I never seen this done before.
Ha, ha, that's funny! To tell you the truth, I did spend a few minutes reviewing that topic, one that has built up decades of dust. To my surprise I have found that some of the very popular sites here on youtube are math channels, like ViHart and Numberphile. I never would have guessed that there are so many math geeks here on the net (grin).
Hey, I'm glad you stopped by. Chrysler presently recommend ATF+4, in both the transfer case and transmission. ATF+4 is compatible with older fluids (they used to recommend ATF+3) so you don't need to worry about mixing. Thanks for visiting.
Thank you for the video, I just got done rebuilding the 46re transmission on my 99 ram. ATF levels were something I didn't want to mess up, your videos have been a big help!
Thanks, Mike
9
So glad to find your video. Just bought a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with transmission problems. You can drive it for about 10-15 minutes before transmission goes out. I am first going to try your technique in tightening the bands and go from there. I appreciate your help.
Hello Sir. Did u ever fix your transmission.? My does the same thing same truck
I have a 46re in my 1999 dodge and today I had a trans. Cooling line brake and had to drive the truck about 12mlies on the freeway then a long hill to get it home. Got the cooling line fixed now and going to adjust the band's per what you said. Thank you for telling me how to do it, change the trans fliter too.
I already knew all this and learned nothing from the video, having said that I did watch the whole thing since I was bored and if you are unfimilar with transmission oil changes and band adjustments this is a GREAT video to watch. Good job! People that take time to do videos like this makes work a lot easier for anyone and takes out all the guess work!
+James Nemeth Thanks, it's nice to see experienced techs drop by once in a while.
Very informative video with a very knowledgeable presenter. Thank you sir!
If only everyone who posted tutorials knew their subjects this well.
Thanks!
Well, four years after this video was made and it's still a godsend! Recently bought a nastily used 2001 Dakota 2wd with 46RE. Having to replace and adjust most everything. This showed what was needed (and the issues I may endure). Mine shifts up but refuses to (automatically) downshift at stops and I imagine the bands have not been adjusted since...well 2001. As we say here in Alabama, I'm going whole hog on it with sensor, solenoid, bands, etc. Enjoyed your video and the candor. Just subscribed and will search your other videos. Thank you.
Well 8 years after this video was made 4 years since your comment😂 rare chance you will reply but did that happen to fix the misshifts?
concisely explained by a rather knowledgeable person who pays attention to details most ordinary folk would not.
What a kind remark, thank you!
I have a '97 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L. At 95,000 miles, the transmission began to slip - more often than not, it will not go to over-drive. I'm considering replacing the pressure solenoid myself - but, adjusting the bands with the proper torque is beyond my ability to do it properly. I have a good mechanic - but, I'll want assurances that he'll be able to torque to the correct specs.
Great video - Thanks.
If you read through the comments here, you'll read that some professionals do not use a torque wrench when they adjust bands, and some even quoted incorrect specs for this vehicle. When I did the procedure I noticed that there is a 'hard stop' to band tightening, which means that the final position of that adjustment screw would be little different even with some variance in applied torque. So, I'll go out on a limb to say I don't think applied torque makes as much difference as the dealers manual may imply. I showed how to do this procedure to factory specs, but an experienced pro may be able to run through torquing bands more quickly. Most of us in the general mechanics world are wary of transmissions, in part because if you misplace one hydraulic ball it could be a nightmare finding the error. I think band adjustment is pretty far down on the list of things that can seriously go wrong. Good luck!
I bought an aluminum drain pan from Jegs for my 01 ram holds 4 extra quarts and "has" a drain plug!!!!! So easy......
Amazon has a pan that fits a 42 re from a Durango . It has a pan drain plug. $37
I greatly appreciate you having made this video. I've been having a couple of issues with my '99 ram 1500 and transmission. I'm going to be doing a full fluid change as you did, replacing filter and everything as well. Seeing such a clear video with an understandable explination has greatly helped me visualize what I will be getting into.
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately changing fluid for transmission problems rarely helps, and occasionally less viscous new fluid can ironically promote slipping. However if bands are out of adjustment I suppose it is possible that tighter bands within spec might get it back on track. There aren't many easily fixable transmission problems. Occasionally speed sensors go bad and it's possible to have a shift solenoid fail. I wish I could help people who visit here more than I can....
I really liked how you did this because I know how hard this can be. Thank you for showig us how you dealt with the square bolt that was brilliant.
What a kind remark, thank you!
I installed a transgo kit in my 46re. It really addresses some of those issues. The tech lines are great too. I wasn't completely satisfied with 1-2 shift, they walked me through the process to get the neck snapping shift I wanted.
Did you have issues before replacement trying to figure out if i need to re pull my pan and do an adjustment after replacing my governor solenoid it ran great for a week good shifts now bacl to how ot was when i pulled the code for the solenoid needing replaced. Just wanting to rev high rpm and not shift up right. Thinking i should habe replaced the tranducer as well now im stuck guessing what the pressure issue because the code was for the governor solenoid which is brand new.
I like how you made a specialty for your torque Wrench. Another successful homemade specialty tool. Great job!
Great video Sir. Thought I might add something regarding making your own 8 millimeter square drive socket. For those who do not have access to a welder, an old 8 mil socket can be used by clamping it down on its side or in a vise and carefully removing two flats with a grinder or Dremel tool. Go slow and remove a little bit at a time.Don't use an old "taiwan" socket as they are very brittle. Buy one at the hardware store if need be. I've been a Chrysler employee for over 28 years and would like to thank you for buying Chrysler and helping others who have also. Best regards!
Austin M Thanks for stopping by!
spelunkerd I wish this was the problem with my truck I have a 2001 and it's in the shop now and has been for a week second gear is gone had a rebuilt one put in and first is out in it when it gets fixed I'm selling it asap
Mopar sells a drain plug for the pan, I installed one on mine and oil change is easy pesy now. also I added added 2 more magnets to my pan, as not all the oil comes in contact with just the one magnet. I always add Lucas transmission additive as well because it keeps the seals and belts from wearing untimely.
To spelunkerd, Thank You! I now have 2 2001 Dodge Ram's that need band adjustments and 1 that has a bad A/C magnet in the compressor. Thanks for the insight on how to tackle these problems. I am a fairly decent home mechanic and because of guy's like you, getting better and saving money everyday. Thanks on more time!
You're welcome, thank you for taking the time to watch these humble videos.
With all the details you have placed in this video I feel much more confident in trying to change my own transmission fluid and now I know how to tighten the band. Thanks a million for the demo.
Thank you for the feedback! Just a little word of caution. It's _not possible_ to learn something thoroughly without making mistakes. Sometimes those mistakes can be painful, embarrassing, and expensive. For example if you crossthread a bolt you need to know how to get yourself out of trouble, or sheepishly take it in to somebody who can help. I have found learning about auto repair to be rewarding, but more in an intellectual way than financially. When you try something for the first time, you need to accept and be prepared for stuff to go wrong (grin).
Thanks, Terry. As far as I know, this is the first detailed band tightening video done on the vehicle that I've found. Surely more will follow.
Thanks for posting this, i just bought one of these and im replacing the filters and fluid because it hasent been done in a few years. The fluid is still red and dose not smell burnt and is not low but with the 203xxx miles on the truck i dont want to take a chance. It's had it's fluid and filter changed at every service interval reccomended by Chrysler and i believe its time. Still shifts like new... And i prefer it stay like that.
Thanks, good luck!
Great video, camera work was excellent as well as your explanations. No DIY project is complete until you have to manufacture a homemade tool. Thanks for sharing!
Very nice video. Very. Am retired and turned to drag racing as hobby with son (talented mechanic) and Happened upon your video while searching for more knowledge on adjusting my racing power glide reverse band after 50 passes. Was very much taken with your illustration and calculating effective torque applied vs indicated when using extensions. :) very well said and illustrated ... always wondered why son cautioned me when using extensions, swivels, etc and torque wrenches :).
Thanks for the kind notes of encouragement, Ron. Nice to meet you.
Dave
this was a great video at a great time . im a back yard mechanic or something like that . any way my so just finished buying his own car . it was a 1999 dodge durango cus his girlfriend like it huh?? every thimg you showes us online was just what his durango needed done. so , with your help and expert guidence . my son and his girl are off to the rodeo and it runs great . you were a lifesaver so thank you sir from a thankful dad. thank you
Hey, it's me again... Haha. So while installing that shift kit I was talking about, I noticed my front band was pretty much at the end of its life... And I've been driving it a month since installing the shift kit with some kind of interesting shifting between 1-2 gear (adjusting the already nearly gone band probably made it a lot worse honestly). I had been planning on rebuilding it once I noticed the front band being so worn. My plan was to drive it until spring break, then perform the rebuild. Well, I almost made it. Next week was gonna be the last week I drove it before pulling the whole transmission and doing the rebuild. Yesterday, it started slipping in reverse. I suspect my rear servo gave out (very common and unrelated to the shift kit)... After slipping in the morning, when I got home, I discovered upon stopping in the road and testing, I had lost all power in reverse. No grip, all slip. The rear band probably burned up and ruined the rear drum too. Not my fault! Lol.
So, story aside, I have all the parts I need sitting up in my room right now and I'm prepared to pull the transmission. Do you know the best way to loosen the bolts on the bell housing, and what size they are? Any tips for extensions? Also, the exhaust Y-pipe/cat (namely, the y pipe to exhaust manifold bolts?), trans cross member, etc? I'm gonna have a lot of fun... I have two whole weeks to get this done and I want to start as early as possible so I have time to get any extra parts I might need shipped.
Thanks,
Sam
Good luck, Sam. I don't think I can help you at this point, since you're planning a job I've never done before. You should think about doing a video, it would be popular here on youtube!
You're right! I might attempt that. Any tips on keeping the camera from getting covered in ATF? Ha.
Samuel Thomas I happen to have a tip about holding the camera.....
-If your married, see if your wife could hold it for you and practice together how you will film everything. Otherwise, ask any other second person to help with the camera.
there is a reusable gasket Mopar started using in 02, I believe. I highly recommend it, if you plan on keeping vehicle and expect you are going to be dropping the pan, again.
If you syphon out 2 or 3 liters from the dipstick before you take off the pan, then it won't be so messy. Thanks for the great video!
Really explained things well. After watching the video you should have no trouble adjusting your bands in a 46re trans
Every time I pull down a drainless bolt transmission pan I always advise my customers to allow me to drill a hole and weld a O2 sensor bung on their trans pan while it is accecible. Makes future services much more pleasant.
Julio Chavez ... well isnt it desigmed that way to allow you to I spent the fluid shavings, change the filter and clean the magnet....... that's at least according to the manual
Jose Almaraz that's correct. As I said before, welding a bung allows the technician to drain the pan very easily for future services. The trans pan comes down no matter what, the magnets get cleaned off and the filter gets replaced.
Julio Chavez koo
Very easy to follow, great, steady camera work and lighting, solid commentary, Thank you. Watching this has convinced me to grab a cheap plastic painter's drop cloth before I start to avoid the inevitable "pan spill" upon removal. The Torque calculations were impressive. Not your average "back yard" protocol.
Thanks.
Thank you sir for the detailed video on adjusting the bands, I followed your procedure having no previous problems with the transmission. I have noticed better shifting in response to following your procedures, I would like to thank you for your detailed video, it has helped me greatly. I enjoy your videos and how very accurate and pithy they are.
Thank you kindly
God bless you and your family
Thanks, you made my day!
a few days ago i also change the filter and atf on a second hand pick up, it was my first one, all my life i drove manual transmissions, OH boy what a mess !! it does not have a dipstick, thankfully it has a drain plug, but when i took of the filter ... a second wave of atf right to my arms and clothes. took me a whole day
Yeah, not easy. Without a dipstick there are other issues, not the least of which is getting the temperature right before measuring, to be sure your new fluid is at the right level. Thanks for stopping by!
I love the tool you made at 8:05! That's brilliant, inexpensive, effective AND expedient. Sage advice on keeping it in a place you can find it too. I have a shallow drawer in my tool box labelled "odd sockets." There you'll find specialty tools, keys, and sockets like that. Great video!
Thanks, Brian! I know, I've seen your drawer on a prior video you did, it's inspiring.
Ha! A case of (sage advise)^2! Not only should specialty tools be safely stored, but you gave a great example of how to go about doing that! I'm getting ready to upgrade to a larger, more comprehensive toolbox, and the FIRST label will be "specialty sockets & such."
I would say you cannot underestimate the importance of being organized for these jobs. The time we spend relative to cost is really the tradeoff DIYers make, and having an organized process really can make that tradeoff worthwhile!
spelunkerd was
sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know a way to get back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Owen Yusuf Instablaster =)
You remind me of a machinist. So precise and knowledgeable. Awesome job
Excellent video.. Great tips on refilling and checking fluid levels. I have a 2003 Dodge ram 2500 that I am about to install a shift kit in clean the valve body and generally check the health of the transmission.I have 125 K miles on the truck and expect maintenance is due. I also want to crisp things up before I install a heavy camper in the box. For the past year I have noticed a significant drain down from the torque converter. I am trying not to have to pull the tranny. Thanks again. Good job.Capt. Billy
Mine was in pretty good shape, but I don't expect to need to go there again soon. So I threw it out and used the new one. I almost never go into the pan without changing the filter so it would probably sit around with the other stuff I hang onto forever, (grin). Thank you for adding to the thread here.
Been years since I saw this video. I still think you are one of the best explainers on RUclips. Thoughtful and concise every time!
Dude your videos are awesome, very descriptive with proper terminology, great work. Thanks for the proper instructions, keep it up
I'm going to do this in the next couple of weeks, along with installing a Fairbanks 10518 shift kit for harder shifts, reliability, and a sportier feel (big plans in the future for my motor, transmission, and rearend). A lot of dumb guys on Facebook are recommending I get a shop to do all this. But nah. By the way, changing out my ball joints, heater core, and dash top went very well. This summer I should be converting the entire computer over to a Megasquirt 3 ECU. At the moment I'm prototyping a digital dash that uses blue LED seven segment displays, a 20x4 character display, and an arduino mega 2560. I'm waiting for the electrical components to come from China. Yes, I'm crazy. Love your videos!
I wish I had your energy, man. Good luck!
spelunkerd The shift kit came today, I should be installing it next weekend. Still waiting for the stuff from china, got a couple of parts but there's still a lot to deliver.
It's a cool coincidence that at 10:05-10:15 you could see the sparking going on in the alternator. Neat shot! Great video over all. Thanks for making it!
Yeah, I wondered if I should change brushes when I saw that. Even today, that same alternator is going strong.
Great teacher enjoyed very much your presentation. Loved how you did the math with inch lbs, foot lbs and the torques convertion regarding band adjustments angels.
Thanks, Bob.
Dave
Dave, you think like an engineer, appreciative and grateful. I was a certified mechanic in the 70's, enjoyed fixing cars for the working class, friends and elderly. i am resuming the art and craft of auto repairs by studying the electronics, sensors, diagnostic computers solenoids circuits, its all fun learning. I thank you for enhancing my the merits of knowledge.
I appreciate the sub, Bob. There are lots of guys like you and me who visit here, it's a fun place to hang out. Believe me, we are all learning something, ha ha.
learning and discovery is a thrill, thanks for the validation peace.
On a 97 3.9L V6 Dakota I will be replacing the governor pressure sensor and sel....along with the trans fluid ATF+4....filter and gasket and all the proper adjustments This weekend...Wish me luck .... awesome video!!!
Thanks, and good luck, man!
This really did help me alot. I had no clue on how to do this on my 97 1500 5.9l. With the 33" tires I'm running now I needed to get it done soon so I don't ruin my tranny. Thank you bud :)
You're welcome, I appreciate your feedback!
Thank you for showing me this i have been having issues with a 47re at work. Even though it is slightly different in the specs the layout is almost exact but this just made life and work so much easier.
I"m glad it helped, thanks for the feedback.
I've got one of those vacuum extractors, but I find it annoying when there is a poor fit at the bleeder causing bubbles. A positive pressure bleeder would be better, but with no standardization of cap size you need a big number of caps. At the end of the day, I've gone back to bleeding with two people like we did decades ago.
Thanks for watching, Steve!
Love you Information just bought a 99 dodge truck with shifting problems I did everything you explained.and the trucks shifts perfect Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
Great story, Adam. I'm glad it helped!
Very helpful. You have to be the smartest mechanic I have ever watched!
Keep making videos, every mechanic will learn from you.
What a kind remark, thank you.
gotta love the arc in the alternator at the end of the video.. great job. great teaching personality
I knew somebody would notice, just the right angle to see the brushes making contact, ha ha. Although I though that alternator was on it's last legs, it's still working today. Thanks for the encouraging feedback.
Thanks for making this DETAILED video! It saved me a lot of time and money. Warning to others: Every Red-Dot of transmission fluid you see IS GOING TO drip on you randomly for hours ! = a great time to have a beer and sleep on completing the job tomorrow...
We dont use rtv because its hard to get off. Its not used cause its hard to seal if there is any oil on the matting surfaces and transmission take forever to stop dripping. And in the shop its all about time. Nice vid sir
Well I have to say , you do a great job explaining all the minor details and have educated me with better knowledge of my transmission. Thank you for being professional about it . So many people that try to help with their videos but they seem to go too quickly or have bad lighting or a bad video itself and I dont seem to understand half of what they say. Although I do appreciate them trying to help. Keep up the good work and Thank You for your Help
Oh, what a kind remark. Thank you.
Very clear video, thanks for the info. Planning on replacing the pressure censor and the governor solenoid so watching everything I can on the inside of the transmission pan.
Thanks. Good luck!
That weld was solid work
Thanks. I'm a little surprised this didn't spark more discussion about whether a torque wrench is absolutely necessary. I did it the way the manual says. But, interestingly, I noticed that the adjustment screw has a sudden 'hard stop' when it tightens down. Meaning that there isn't a whole lot of difference in final (back rotated) position between 72 inch pounds and 150 inch pounds. I suspect that experienced techs might save themselves time by estimating torque. Maybe somebody will chime in....
spelunkerd, you are one of the best youtube presenters I have watched. Great explanations and no fiddling with the camera which ruins so many videos.
What a kind remark, thanks!
To begin with Thank You for taking the time to make these video's , To a shade tree mechanic who has the tools but not the manuals or know how.
+Brad Lines Thanks, man.
For manuals consider spending $45 for a 5 year subscription to the dealers manual. I use Alldatadiy, but I believe Mitchell offer a similar product. Both offer up to date TSB's, which put them over the top compared to the old Haynes manual paper option. A subscription pays for itself with one repair, and it gives you more confidence that you have details that the manufacturer considers important enough to make available to their technicians.
I have a Haynes online subscription for my 97 Dodge Ram 1500. I'm assuming the Haynes manual is not the "dealers manual" - that there is a difference. Is Alldatadyi, then, a dealers manual?
I've screwed-up the courage to adjust the bands - but I would like to have all the tools and manuals and RUclips videos, and brains before I lay a wrench to a bolt...
For a couple of decades I used the Haynes paper manuals, and they were good reviews by general mechanics not employed by the manufacturer. Haynes was a good reference for the DIY mechanic, it showed good general technique. A lot of the repairs were actually done by general mechanics employed by Haynes, and they described what they found. Haynes didn't just copy the dealers manual, they did work themselves, and I'm not even sure if they had all the dealers documents. Certainly the electrical diagrams lacked some detail. My impression of Haynes was generally good, though I haven't used Haynes in about 20 years. When the OEM manual originally came out for my '98 Ram I bought it ($250 at that time). That's probably the last paper manual I'll ever buy. In the second decade I wanted access to Technical Service Bulletins for my Ram, which of course aren't in the original paper manual. So, I got Alldata, which is at least 90% accurate compared to the original paper manual, mostly pages are copied word for word, with identical diagrams. Manufacturers are required to get information out there, and I assume they don't mind the possible copyright issues. I also have a subscription to Mitchell for our Subaru, and it seems good as well, not much to compare. Both have slightly weak diagrams because of pixelation and lack of detail compared to paper. Overall I would say the cost for a 5 year subscription with Alldata or Mitchell is about the same as an old style Haynes manual, and much more accurate and detailed. Still, they may not have all the detail you want if you're going to tackle a transmission overhaul. I don't know anything about the Haynes product online. Good luck!
You failed to mention it's a good idea to pull the little cover to inspect the 3,4 spring. They will tend to break over time from cold to hot. Its wise to inspect it since you have the pan off.
Curious do you know alot about the 46re? I don't have overdrive and it's aggravating lol.
Ya, that's a thought. It's rare for me to want to change fluid without also changing the filter, so most of the time I need the pan off anyway. It might make things less messy. On my GM there is a drain plug, but the last time I tried to use it the plug was frozen in place and I had to use a torch to get it moving anyway. There is also the issue of watching for leakage if you make your own drain plug -- the pan is pretty thin steel. Too bad you can't screw off the filters. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I'm not sure I'm confident enough to do it myself, but if I do, this video will be playing under the vehicle next to me.
You're welcome.
Yes, a little detail always help, especially when there is nothing out there as you mentioned. That's why I'm doing a little detail stuff on the transmission range sensor for the Suzuki that I'm working on now. I don't see anything out there for that either. So, I'm sure that your video and hopefully mine can help folks out there.
Thank you for the instructions and the opportunity to see your dogs in the background.
Not quite Briansmobile1 with the pretty girls hanging around, but from my perspective my dogs are my pretty girls. Thank you for watching!
***** I think the torque converter sucks up fluid when it starts to spin which explains why fluid level drops when the engine is running. Fluid also flows through the oil cooler but I think the cooler tubing is so full of fluid that you don't get enough air bubbles in it to allow it to siphon back when the engine is off (unless oil level is too low or if you've opened the system to work on it. It has always surprised me how much fluid level varies, which I guess explains why they recommend checking levels with engine running and temp at operating range. Presumably it is tricky to graduate the dipstick for engine cold, engine off because that reflux back into the trans when off can vary a lot depending on peripheral devices. Thanks for your thoughtful remark!
***** The more I learned about torque converters, the more complicated they seemed. Considering it's old technology, there is not much variance between manufacturers at least in terms of basic design. Ericthecarguy did a nice introductory video, and I found an excellent pdf by Toyota that showed better detail. But I'd really like a cartoon video showing how fluid flows at different speeds -- lamellar flow at idle is surprisingly different than at highway speed. The torque converter is almost completely full of ATF when running. Fluid does remain in the torque converter with engine off, but the portion that siphons back is variable and a little unpredictable. Cheers!
nice and slow enough for me to understand.....im truly a ford man (crown Victoria) and learn to bust down that car from top to bottom just from videos but I just brought my first truck ..a 96 dodge Dakota 😂 😂 real true beater but still very strong, so I will be watching alot of your videos..thanks a lot
Thanks for watching, and it's nice to meet you.
Dave
That was an excellent video they ought to only allow videos on this the coincide with the way yours was done some people just don't explain shit right yours was perfect very good camera I wish RUclips would pull up videos of this nature every time I have to go through massive amounts of videos and waste of time before I find one with this quality of information
adjusting the front band on my jeeps 42re is pretty much the same procedure... however, i dont think i have as much room as you did. holding the torx screw and tightening the nut is proving to be a pita... lol. thanks for the video anyhow.
+Blas Morilla Yeah tricky, especially in newer vehicles with the front prop shaft in place. Trying to do this to proper torque specs is even more difficult, although it is reassuring to know that many professionals seem to get away without using a torque wrench. Good luck!
+spelunkerd. I was able to get her done to spec. your video helped a lot. so thank you. though I think I may need to tighten maybe half a turn to compensate for worn friction material. gonna give it a shot and I'll report back. thanks again bud.
Good Video. I've always been able to find a 12 point socket that will fit on a square nut or bolt. Dig thru your wrenches and you're sure to find on.
Great video helped me a lot I have a 99 ram 1500 and was getting ready to adjust the band's my truck is having issues shifting from first to second I have to get the rpms up let off throttle and then it will shift tanks for the video keep up the good work
Your plan seems reasonable to check levels and adjust bands, Chris. I hope it works. Failing that, I suppose it could be something simple like a failing solenoid. Unfortunately it may be much more serious. Good luck!
Tanks all the info I've got is the front band or the pressure governor or pressure silonid or the speed output sensor once it shifts its fine its just first in to second its not slipping the rpms get up and when I let off it shifts like it's either not getting the signal or the pressure it needs
Thorough yet concise. Well done, Sir.
Thank you, and season's greetings!
Stupid square headed bolt. When I adjusted my bands, I ended up using a GatorGrip brand socket. It worked well and has come in handy for a few other projects too. I also saw that somebody below suggested spline drives. That's a pretty good idea.
My spline drive sockets didn't fit. I think many guys just use a crow's foot wrench and accept the reduced accuracy of the torque wrench numbers. Because crow's feet extend the lever by about an inch, they will increase applied torque by a small amount. Some of that may be offset by frictional loss of extra hardware. What I don't like is the fact that as a crow's foot rotates, the influence on applied torque changes, with ideal angles being at 90 and -90 deg to the handle, and sinusoidal variance through the full circle. There's no doubt that crow's feet are not designed to be used with a torque wrench, but whether it makes a difference here is debatable. When the band cinches tight, there is a steep increase in torque needed to move further, so I believe a small difference in applied torque makes little difference as far as the final resting position of the band screw after rotating back. Thanks for watching!
I managed to pickup an accratorque on eBay. Now my torques are set on the wall mounted torque dial rather than the gauge itself. Means any combination of extensions or drives can be used ,confident the torque applied is correct as per the accratorque. Was pretty cheap and still in calibration! A bargain compared to the stress of a too loose or damaged fastener. Just can't afford to guess torque withfasteners going into threads in aluminium.
Interesting idea, I'll have to look into that. I always wonder how close
the calibration of my three torque wrenches are. What gets most of us
out of trouble is the fact that many applications, possibly including
this one, have fairly broad tolerance before critical failure. As you
say, aluminum is a game changer! Even something like ambient temperature
can affect both torque output and failure tendency.
Thanks for your input, it's nice to see a pro stopping by.
Well done. I wish more people used a torque wrench. Princess auto flyer for oct 22 page 15. I have used this manual fluid extractor for 10 years to remove brake fluid, eng oil. power steering, transmission, rear axle, gas, diesel, coolant and around the house as well, no more turkey basters. LOL. I have an accessory hose that you attach to your bleeder screws and it vacuum bleeds brakes fantastic. I vacuum out all the fluids and never have to get under the truck. Maybe a tool review?
I really appreciate your clarity!
I bought an aftermarket transmission pan for my wife's car specifically because the factory one didn't have a drain plug, so every time I wanted to drop the pan I had to loosen the bolts and just let it drip transmission fluid for ages, and then manipulate the pan off with another 2 inches or so of fluid still sitting in the bottom. This way whenever it's time to service the transmission I can completely drain the pan before removing it.
That’s why I welded on a small square bit of steel and a nut to the bottom of the pan and put a drain plug in it.
Very helpful show and tell. Nice to know the guts of an automatic transmission. Keep up the good work!
Thankyou.
Your video is extremely helpful and accurate. You dont bullshit. You get to the point. You keep putting videos up. I was very impressed. You're frontline here. Keep em coming!
You can use sae 12 point socket and it will fit. That holds true with all square nuts if it is metric good to SAE if it's SAE go to metric.
Job well done. This is without a doubt the best video I've seen on this adjustment. You have helped us greatly on this job as well as other transmission repairs. Thank You!
+roggiedale Thanks, man.
Sage words about personally made custom tools: "The trick is to put it in a safe place when I can find it in the future."
I have re-made custom tools because of this - now I have 2 or 4 of them...somewhere... 8*D
Excellent presentation showing how to change the oil and Adjuster bands on the Dodge transmission thank you very much!
Thanks!
I drilled a hole in my pan to drain atf.
Put in a self tapping screw w/ a rubber washer.
No more mess dropping the T-pan!
well i hope that lasts more than 100 miles,
Also, at 8:25 + you can take long steel paper clips, unfold them, cut them in the middle and stick the open side over the bolt threads (on the trans body side of the gasket) start the bolts and just pull the clips out (they keep the gasket from moving while installing the pan) after the bolts are started
That's an interesting idea, I'll have to think of that when I find a gasket that isn't so well designed to grab the bolt threads. As you know, in the mechanical world it's nice to have various methods, to cope with the practical limitations of many options. Nice to meet you!
they also work on oil pans and the weird ones that mount sideways/ vertically (motorcycles, etc)
Amazing video especially the part about calculating the deflection. I have never seen that sort of torque wrench looks expensive, lol.
The bar type can be better or worse than the clicker style wrench, less convenient for sure. This wrench is more accurate for small torque, but in this application I believe there is wide tolerance in what is acceptable torque. The method shown is as described in the dealers manual, however I believe professionals who work on these every day can get away without exacting torque on those adjustment screws. Thanks for watching!
Thank you you taught me how to service my vehicle in a easy explainable way keep up the awesome work
Excellent video... Thank you for sharing... The proper way to check and add fluid is worth viewing it in itself. Thanks Again!
Thank you sir for making this video it was very helpful truck is up and running now thank you once again💯👍👍💯
Excellent video.
I have an 01 ram getting ready to do this maintenance .
Great tip about screwing on gasket before hand to stabilize it👍
Thanks!
all of your videos are a big help man you tell us all the info as if your reading it straight from the service manual :) keep making vids man there great
You've got my thumbs up Steve for doing a tool review on your manual fluid extractor as I would like to see it in action. There has been many cases with me where the tool that you describe would have come in handy.
Awesome explanation very detailed and spot on
What a great video. I enjoyed your explanation of how to calculate the effective torque of your wrench coupled with the extension. Also, the easy explanation of band adjustment was pretty straightforward. Thanks. I subscribed!
mr diyguy123
"The trick is to put it in the same place so I dont lose it later."
Story of my life.
I wish you were my neighbor. Great video.
What a kind remark. Thank you.
absolutely great video. 2001 ram1500 sport. hoping this helps me to not have to remove the transmission, because as we all know, that's a pain in the arse. great video, very detailed and hopefully very helpful, we'll find out this weekend.
Thanks, and good luck. You should make a video (grin).
i don't do the video thing....I just get things done. unfortunately, I need to replace the throttle valve cable as well, so I haven't gotten under the truck yet. will be as soon as I get the part in. I'll make sure to let you know how it all turns out though.
Thank you for the video. An 8 point socket will fit the square headed adjusting screws and can be purchased a from most popular tool makers. If you can't find an 8mm then use a 5/16".
Theoretically a 12 point should fit too, but the corners of that bolt are softly rounded, such that my 12 point sockets all slipped off. I also have a few of those 'universal' socket sets that claim to grab everything, but none of those sockets fit either.
The 8 point are 2 squares that overlap forming a 8 point star. It fits the flats on the adjusting screw. 12 point sockets mainly fit the corners and since there aren't any or they are rounded it doesn't hold. Also I have found that a 12 point socket is not true to size or fit when it comes to a square headed fastener.
Also the angle difference between 60' and 90' of the socket configuration.
tradersnotion Yes, you are absolutely right about that, the angle of a 12 point is too shallow. I do have a set of double square 'male' sockets for adjusting doors, but I don't yet have a female set. Dang, another expensive tool set to buy (grin). Thanks for your post, it adds to the thread!
Those are good questions, coming from the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' camp. Usually, wise words, and it's probably better to not mess with it rather than do it wrong!
In this case, Chrysler include adjusting bands in their routine maintenance protocol, every 37,500 miles, at the same time as they advise replacement of AFT and transfer case fluid. So, they say, yes, do it. Those guidelines may not have scientific basis, and newer vehicle guidelines have asked for less maintenance overall.
Great Video !