This was so helpful to realize all of the thought and steps it takes to complete. Great job showing the process and progress… especially how much time it takes.
if you start in the corner and make sure its level then take the top and bottom piece and fit them tight and horizontal , that gives you the 2 points for the next vertical board to but against , do a quick level check and nail it down then continue , no measuring needed as long as you cut the horizontal ones all the same
Haha nothing wrong with painting last. I could have waited, but just felt it was so easy to hit boards when they weren't on the wall. It was very quick.
Hi do you think there’s a way to do this despite having a ceiling that is not perfectly level and somehow from on end to the other it’s 2 cm higher on one end
That's a little tough, but no ceiling is perfectly level. Is the 2 cm difference spread throughout the entire length of the wall? If so, I think you can hide it fairly easily. I'd do the vertical board as one piece, and fill in the horizontals between. Make horizontal in between the vertical boards and next to the ceiling completely level. As the ceiling rises, move the horizontal board very slightly higher, but still keep it level. If there are any small gaps, fill them in with caulk and in the end I think it will look very good. I hope your project goes well!
Awesome! MDF is perfect, but my Home Depot was out when I did this project. Instead of being patient or driving around to other stores, I just bought the lumber there. Glad it worked out for you!
4:05 You should primer the boards before painting. The primer will cause the grain to raise up and you need to lightly sand again to get the boards nice and smooth. This will help the paint keep its color without soaking into the wood and keep the grain texture from popping up when you paint.
I have this panelling but find the parts on bottom vollect dust badly and are rough so won't clean, do i sand and caulk it? Its like the bottom of each square
Hey, I'm sorry that sounds tedious. If it's rough, sanding, caulking, and painting with maybe satin finish is one option. Are you able to run a wet cloth along it and get it clean? Another option is using a pore filler which fills in the crack and uneven surfaces. It will help make it more smooth. Good luck!
Thanks! I purchased it off of Wayfair and then painted it to match the wall. The bed is called Montauk Solid Wood Panel Bed. We purchased the Rustic Gray, but here's a short of me painting it. ruclips.net/user/shorts2gL0JU2j7ao
@@robertprescott9577 hey Robert, if you take very careful measurements, Home Depot or Lowes will cut them for you at the store. I'd let them know when you arrive at the store to ask if someone can help you. You'd pick out the ones you like, load them on a cart, pay for them, measure your cuts in an aisle where they have the saw, and then let them cut for you. Good luck!
I actually did not. I rested the bottom board right on the top of the baseboard. After consideration, I thought it would look funny if I had baseboards around 3 walls but not the 4th so I just did the board and batten wall above the baseboard. Have a great day!
I think spraying it on would be just fine if you have the equipment to do so. I do not, so I just went with what I know and that's brushing. If you're comfortable with the spray, then go for it!
Hey Javier - I used the following: 1x4 common boards from Home Depot, and Behr Paint (Color: Hematite) from Home Depot. I used flat paint, but I think Satin would look really nice as well. Good luck if you start this project!
Love this video I’m actually doing this right now my room is 16x10 so very similar only thing is having an issue with the numbers I’m bad at math lol help please
I can't find the Ral color for you, but here's a link to the exact paint I used. www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/N460-6/?https:%2F%2Fwww.behr.com%2Fconsumer%2F=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqP2pBhDMARIsAJQ0Czq6UcCwiQbwRzgDS3_-K9cGvnt-JJUtsjvihkM0Unp74X3YRDl4UKUaAkajEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Mine was already smooth, but you can turn textured into smooth with a skim coating technique. This guy does a good job demonstrating. It takes some effort, but I think you can get them looking good. I prefer this method to sanding because sanding make such a mess. Good luck!
Hands down the best diy remodeling video I've ever seen. All others are supposedly geared up for beginners DIY project and then they are pulling out $10k-$20k worth of equipment. This guy is using simple, budget friendly tools and supplies that an actual beginner DIY guy like me, can afford. Thank you sir.
for me, taking the vertical boards all the way to the top was a bold move. I feel like the ceilings of my home have not been level enough to trust the top row would look right if I split them up into min pieces. I agree it would definitely be easier as long as you know that the tops will light up correctly.
That's a good point, but my walls were so long that I couldn't find a horizontal board to span the distance. I would have had a seam anyway, so that's why I decided to go vertical first and cut up the horizontal. Have a great day!
Good question and I could have just waited until after caulking to start painting. I just found that getting a coat on everything while it's accessible is quick any easy. Once everything was up I did a second coat, but didn't have to be as careful about missing spots because the majority of everything was still primed with the gray. You'd definitely be okay waiting until after, but you'd most likely need two coats after instead of 1 before and 1 after. Have a great day!
@@HandzforHire ah OK. I'm only asking because I see the same method you use as the same method others you. I just wanted to get people's input if there was some sort of advantage of doing it in that order
@@marlonestrella5054 yeah, it's the method I've always used because I find it easier to paint the wall when it's all exposed and paint the boards when they are accessible on a drop cloth. Sure, I have to do a second coat because of the sanding and caulking, but I didn't have to paint quite as close to the ceiling or other walls because I had a good base. I may just be imagining it's easier this way, but it works for me. Have a good one!
Thanks! Yes, that's one challenge. The good news is that from an upper view angle, it's not noticeable. The only thing I could think of was possibly using thinner boards, but then the depth wouldn't be as dramatic. I think that's what makes the wall pop. Each time I come into the room, my eyes are drawn to the wall and not the transition so it doesn't bother me, but there has to be a way to make it perfect. Maybe new baseboards that don't bevel? Have a great day!
That would have been an excellent choice as well, but the truth is that the Home Depot didn't have the supply I needed when I was doing this project, so I just went with the wood. Have a great day!
That's a great question and I can't remember exactly, but this is my best guess. I purchased the tile at Floor & Decor. www.flooranddecor.com/porcelain-tile/sedon-lodge-natural-wood-plank-porcelain-tile-100983915.html
Thanks! You're right. I both hit and missed the studs, but honestly the nails were there mostly to initially hold the boards in place. They kept the boards flush with the wall while the liquid nails dried.
Hey, great question and I should have mentioned in video. The wall length was 18' and I converted it to inches (18' x 12" = 216"). I hope that helps! Have a great day!
Great questions and they are not flush. I thought about this a lot, and I would have either needed to use thinner boards, or replaced the floor boards to make everything flush. I opted to leave as is and to be honest it still looks great. Because you look down on it, and the board sticks out farther than the tapered floor trim, you don't really notice it. Have a great day!
1/2 x 4 would definitely work. It just depends on the look you're going for! I did not nail into the studs in every case. A lot of times it was into the sheetrock and this is why I used the liquid nails. The nails help hold the boards to the sheetrock while the glue dries. 24 hours later, everything is rock solid.
It's called Hematite by Behr. www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/N460-6/?https:%2F%2Fwww.behr.com%2Fconsumer%2F=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqP2pBhDMARIsAJQ0Czq6UcCwiQbwRzgDS3_-K9cGvnt-JJUtsjvihkM0Unp74X3YRDl4UKUaAkajEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you for all the information - one question: some other videos removed the baseboard and added another horizontal board to make everything flush on the bottom. I noticed you didn't - are your boards not flush against the baseboard?
That is a valid point, and I considered removing the baseboard, but in the end wanted to keep the baseboard matching the rest of the baseboards in the room. This means that the lowest horizontal board does stick out slight. The good news is it that it doesn't stick out too far, and your eye can't really tell. Your eye is draw to the wall and not the threshold between the board and base board. Hopefully you can get an idea of how it looks in the final shots towards end of the video. Good luck if you do a wall yourself!
Hi Jennifer! It's called Hematite and it's a Behr paint from Home Depot. On the wall I used a flat paint, and on the bed (to make it match) I used a satin.
It does require some time. I split it up throughout a week. I got all the materials one day, cut and sanded the boards the next, painted and installed the following, caulked and spackled the next, and then sanded and repainted the final day. I think the total time was somewhere between 20-25 hours. Good luck if you try it!
This is why I never cut it ahead of time....I cut to fit as I go. These new houses are never square....there's all kinds of drywall fluctuations and you can never assume that what you measure at one point top to bottom will be the same at another point. Its always different. Very good video, very thorough....turned out great!
@@HandzforHire Right on man! I was also gonna say if you want to avoid all that sanding and warped garbage lumber use pvc board. Currently it’s not that much more than wood and it’s always true, can bend to uneven drywall, no sanding needed. It’s all I use these days just because most lumber sucks. Good work brother...well done!
Shouldn’t the gaps between the trims be caulked instead of spackled? Wondering if it may crack from movement. Loved the video though! Glad to see helpful guides like this on RUclips 😊
Thanks! You bring up a really good point, and caulk is definitely better at expanding and contracting. The issue was the gaps between the boards were a little to large for caulk. Caulk can't be sanded but spackle can. I was going for the smooth surface, but you're right, it can crack over time. Perhaps a wood putty was the answer, but if it does get bad (and it hasn't yet), I could always patch pretty quickly in the future. Have a great day!
Great question! We are the builders/first owners of this house so I know where the electric is behind the wall. All wires run through the studs so they are not close to the sheetrock. It wouldn't be possible to hit a wire through the board and sheetrock because the nails are not long enough. Have a great day!!
Nice and classic look. There are online calculators for these kinds of project that take the guesswork out of the equation. FYI. Would have saved some headaches 😅
Great question and I was painting on over our old carpet. Right after the wall was finished, we ripped the carpet out and installed the nice tile floors. Thanks for checking in. If we had replaced the floors first, I definitely would have been using a drop cloth! Haha.
Some people choose to place a flat panel (medium density fiberboard (MDF)) over their textured sheetrock for a smooth finish. You can find fairly thin MDF and lay sheets of it over the sheetrock prior to adding the boards. It adds a bit to the budget, but you'll get a smooth finish. It is challenging to get a textured wall smooth.
I like it, big guy. Do the slabs sit flush on top of the baseboards? I’m assuming there’s some disparity but didn’t see a closeup. Anyhow, awesome video and I’m gonna handle a very similar project this weekend. Your effort came out beautifully.
Hi Drew! Thanks! The lowest horizontal board does stick out slight. The good news is it that it doesn't stick out too far, and your eye can't really tell. Your eye is draw to the wall and not the threshold between the board and base board. Hopefully you can get an idea of how it looks in the final shots towards end of the video. Good luck if you do a wall yourself!
Good question! Because of the pattern, I had no choice but to nail into dry wall in certain places. This is why I used Liquid Nails which hold the boards securely to the wall. The nails hold everything in place while the glue dries.
@@divyatva Since I caulked, it really didn't matter which order. I only painted first because sometimes it's hard to get into the cracks/edges of boards.
Hi Laurett, I definitely considered it. It looks nice, and have saved me a lot of time sanding. I decided to go with the pine common boards mostly because they were immediately available at home depot, and MDF boards of similar dimensions were not. If you have the option to go with MDF, I'd say go for it!
Using liquid nails was a bad idea. What if you decide years later you don't want that look anymore? How would you remove the boards without messing up the wall?
Good point, but if I switched it up, I'd probably just replace the sheetrock. It's similar to a tile backsplash in a kitchen. You have to use an adhesive so the boards are secure. If I just did the nail gun, it would be hard to get each board into the studs. A lot of nails are just into the sheet rock. If you decide to do it without adhesive, please let me know how it goes.
So when I go buy the wood slats, are there different types of wood to choose from ? I want to do this to my bedroom but I’m scared to be overwhelmed incase I don’t know what to get
I actually just went with the cheapest boards I could find (lol). These are pine common boards from Home Depot. I was careful while choosing. I tried straight boards with no sign of warping (not as easy as you'd think). I'd grab a board by one end and look down the length with one eye to if I saw any warping. i also tried to choose pieces without edges missing from tree knots. Hopefully that helps!
Excellent video. Really helped me a lot - one Q please? Did you use the finishing nailer on the studs or was it ok with liquid nails and on the drywall etc. ?
Thanks! I appreciate it! I used the finishing nailer throughout and many of them went through boards into drywall. If I didn't use liquid nails this would have been no good for long term, but the nails acted more like a clamp until the liquid nails dried. Liquid nails doesn't hold in place until it cures, so I would have ended up with separation from the drywall or gravitational sliding without nails. Good luck if you're gearing up for this project!
The walls are just painted drywall, so there wasn't too much texture. I painted over the light gray with the charcoal gray (hematite). I know some people choose to put smooth panels on the wall, but we decided to keep it simple. Have a great day!
Yes, absolutely, but it is quite a bit more expensive. If you go to home depot, they'll show you where it is. Sometime the sanded wood has a bit of pre-conditioner after it's sanded which can influence the color of your stain, but for paint it's no problem at all.
Got a laugh at the start of the video. We have the same wrought iron above our head board and are now putting up board and batton - and close to the same wall color.
Love it but I think you could have saved a lot of time. Especially from the pre-painting and then repainting after spackling and caulking. I would at most prime the boards before putting up. But when I’ve done it I’ve put sanded boards up unpainted, done all the work (nails, spackling sanding caulking, hit everything with a tinted primer, let it dry and painted. When painting do brush work first then use the roller to cover as many brush marks on the panels as possible. Looks great though. Next time save yourself a few hours! :-)
It was a bit overkill, but honestly painting was the quickest part of the whole job. I was able to paint all of the boards quickly on the ground which saved me detailing time when they were nailed up (especially around the border). I think I would have had to do two coats no matter what. It's perfectly fine to put them up, spackle, caulk, sand, and then paint too. Have a great day!
@@cometravelguyana6458I don't see why not. You can attach the boards with a glue product like liquid nails (specially designed to attach wood and concrete), and caulk in the same way I did in this video. You won't be able to use the nail gun, but if you really want to secure, you can drill and use screws to fasten. You'll have to go back and spackle the screw holes in your boards afterwards. Good luck if you decide to do it! I'm sure it will turn out nice!
I agree that the headboard could be another color to make it pop more. I just had to make sure it wasn't the bluish gray because that clashed with the wall color. Maybe I'll change it up again in the future. Have a great day!
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Very detailed love how he kept it informative less talking more doing awesome video 🎉
Thanks so much!
Probably one of the best how to videos I have ever seen. Thanks for the info man! Great job
Wow, you made my day! Thanks! Good luck if you try the project!
You made it very easy to understand. Incredibly helpful tutorial even for a dummy like me. Thanks!
Haha, thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed, and I'm sure you'd crush it if you decide to take on the project! Have a great day!
This was a great video!! I actually used it to do my accent wall and it looks great!! Thanks and keep the videos coming!!
Thanks for this. Just bought a house and going to do this in in my master
Awesome! I'm sure it will turn out great!
This was so helpful to realize all of the thought and steps it takes to complete. Great job showing the process and progress… especially how much time it takes.
Thank you! Good luck to you if you decide to take on the project yourself!
Love how you left the trim on! There's no reason to remove the trim!
Thanks!
Amazing video! My only rec is always paint last.
Thanks!
Great job. Beautiful room.
Thank you!
if you start in the corner and make sure its level then take the top and bottom piece and fit them tight and horizontal , that gives you the 2 points for the next vertical board to but against , do a quick level check and nail it down then continue , no measuring needed as long as you cut the horizontal ones all the same
Great tips!
Love how you went into details on everything, it really helps for beginners! Will be attempting on my own wish me luck 🤞🏽
Best of luck! I hope it turns out really well for you!
Love the math lesson! I'm paying a carpenter to create my accent wall in a dining room. I love how this wall looks.
I’m the last person to do home fixes. But watching other videos, my recommendation would be to paint last due to having to spackle, caulk, and sand.
Haha nothing wrong with painting last. I could have waited, but just felt it was so easy to hit boards when they weren't on the wall. It was very quick.
Hi do you think there’s a way to do this despite having a ceiling that is not perfectly level and somehow from on end to the other it’s 2 cm higher on one end
That's a little tough, but no ceiling is perfectly level. Is the 2 cm difference spread throughout the entire length of the wall? If so, I think you can hide it fairly easily. I'd do the vertical board as one piece, and fill in the horizontals between. Make horizontal in between the vertical boards and next to the ceiling completely level. As the ceiling rises, move the horizontal board very slightly higher, but still keep it level. If there are any small gaps, fill them in with caulk and in the end I think it will look very good. I hope your project goes well!
Great video
Thanks!
I use MDF 1x4 pre primed nice and smooth no need to sand. Painting the wall first works great.
Awesome! MDF is perfect, but my Home Depot was out when I did this project. Instead of being patient or driving around to other stores, I just bought the lumber there. Glad it worked out for you!
4:05 You should primer the boards before painting. The primer will cause the grain to raise up and you need to lightly sand again to get the boards nice and smooth. This will help the paint keep its color without soaking into the wood and keep the grain texture from popping up when you paint.
That's a really great point. The paint I used was a primer and paint combo.
@@HandzforHire We noticed 😞
I have this panelling but find the parts on bottom vollect dust badly and are rough so won't clean, do i sand and caulk it? Its like the bottom of each square
Hey, I'm sorry that sounds tedious. If it's rough, sanding, caulking, and painting with maybe satin finish is one option. Are you able to run a wet cloth along it and get it clean? Another option is using a pore filler which fills in the crack and uneven surfaces. It will help make it more smooth. Good luck!
Where did you get that bed frame?! I LOVE it
Thanks! I purchased it off of Wayfair and then painted it to match the wall. The bed is called Montauk Solid Wood Panel Bed. We purchased the Rustic Gray, but here's a short of me painting it. ruclips.net/user/shorts2gL0JU2j7ao
Great video. Why not attach the unpainted boards to the wall, fill in the nail holes and gaps and apply caulking.... THEN paint?
Thanks! That definitely would have saved me time. Haha.
great job. Other videos make it look so hard but now I think i can to this!!!!
Awesome! Good luck!
@@HandzforHire what would you recommend to cut the wood since i dont have a circular saw?
@@robertprescott9577 hey Robert, if you take very careful measurements, Home Depot or Lowes will cut them for you at the store. I'd let them know when you arrive at the store to ask if someone can help you. You'd pick out the ones you like, load them on a cart, pay for them, measure your cuts in an aisle where they have the saw, and then let them cut for you. Good luck!
Is it necessary to remove the baseboards? I se you did not remove them.
I actually did not. I rested the bottom board right on the top of the baseboard. After consideration, I thought it would look funny if I had baseboards around 3 walls but not the 4th so I just did the board and batten wall above the baseboard. Have a great day!
where did the 216 come from?
Hey, great question! I measured the wall to be 18' long, and then I converted feet to inches. 18' x 12 inches per foot = 216 inches
Awesome job!
Thank you!
Is it ok to do a spray paint on that final coat? Or brush has better texture finish?
I think spraying it on would be just fine if you have the equipment to do so. I do not, so I just went with what I know and that's brushing. If you're comfortable with the spray, then go for it!
Well done!! Looks great
Thanks!
What finish paint did you use? Eggshell or semigloss? What is the paint color? What is the boards that you used called?
Hey Javier - I used the following: 1x4 common boards from Home Depot, and Behr Paint (Color: Hematite) from Home Depot. I used flat paint, but I think Satin would look really nice as well. Good luck if you start this project!
nice wotk, great instructions!
Thanks!
Love this video I’m actually doing this right now my room is 16x10 so very similar only thing is having an issue with the numbers I’m bad at math lol help please
Thanks! Nice! If you send me your exact measurements in inches of the wall, and send me the exact size of the boards you're using, I can help you out.
Cheers! Can’t wait to begin bedroom reno
Nice! Please let me know how it goes! I'm sure it will look awesome!
Can you tell me the Ral color of the color?
I can't find the Ral color for you, but here's a link to the exact paint I used. www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/N460-6/?https:%2F%2Fwww.behr.com%2Fconsumer%2F=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqP2pBhDMARIsAJQ0Czq6UcCwiQbwRzgDS3_-K9cGvnt-JJUtsjvihkM0Unp74X3YRDl4UKUaAkajEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Drawing out your design was priceless thanks
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
so beautiful! love it!
Thank you!
Was your drywall already a smooth finish or does it have a texture to it? My wall has a texture but want it to be a smooth finish
Mine was already smooth, but you can turn textured into smooth with a skim coating technique. This guy does a good job demonstrating. It takes some effort, but I think you can get them looking good. I prefer this method to sanding because sanding make such a mess. Good luck!
Very nice 👍🏼 ❤
Thanks!
Hands down the best diy remodeling video I've ever seen. All others are supposedly geared up for beginners DIY project and then they are pulling out $10k-$20k worth of equipment. This guy is using simple, budget friendly tools and supplies that an actual beginner DIY guy like me, can afford. Thank you sir.
Thank you! I don't own those super expensive tools either. Good luck with your project if you move forward! I'm sure it will turn out well!!
Always love a good math lesson😎
Lol, who doesn't? I've been loving your trip photos!
Love the color that you used for the accent wall!! I want to ask what color paint my that be?
Thank you! It's Behr Paint (Color: Hematite) from Home Depot. Have a great day!
Is the wall textured?
No, it's fairly smooth sheetrock and paint
for me, taking the vertical boards all the way to the top was a bold move. I feel like the ceilings of my home have not been level enough to trust the top row would look right if I split them up into min pieces. I agree it would definitely be easier as long as you know that the tops will light up correctly.
That's a good point, but my walls were so long that I couldn't find a horizontal board to span the distance. I would have had a seam anyway, so that's why I decided to go vertical first and cut up the horizontal. Have a great day!
Hey thank you for the video. Question… Was the wall smooth or textured?
Hello, the wall was fairly smooth.
Why did you paint then apply caulking then repainted it?
Good question and I could have just waited until after caulking to start painting. I just found that getting a coat on everything while it's accessible is quick any easy. Once everything was up I did a second coat, but didn't have to be as careful about missing spots because the majority of everything was still primed with the gray. You'd definitely be okay waiting until after, but you'd most likely need two coats after instead of 1 before and 1 after. Have a great day!
@@HandzforHire ah OK. I'm only asking because I see the same method you use as the same method others you. I just wanted to get people's input if there was some sort of advantage of doing it in that order
@@marlonestrella5054 yeah, it's the method I've always used because I find it easier to paint the wall when it's all exposed and paint the boards when they are accessible on a drop cloth. Sure, I have to do a second coat because of the sanding and caulking, but I didn't have to paint quite as close to the ceiling or other walls because I had a good base. I may just be imagining it's easier this way, but it works for me. Have a good one!
Nice Job!
Thanks!
Love it. I wonder how one can improve the transition from the bottom 1x4 to the trim.
Thanks! Yes, that's one challenge. The good news is that from an upper view angle, it's not noticeable. The only thing I could think of was possibly using thinner boards, but then the depth wouldn't be as dramatic. I think that's what makes the wall pop. Each time I come into the room, my eyes are drawn to the wall and not the transition so it doesn't bother me, but there has to be a way to make it perfect. Maybe new baseboards that don't bevel? Have a great day!
Why not use polyurethane or MDF? It seems most crown molding is polyurethane. I also cant decide if crown molding at the top would look good.
That would have been an excellent choice as well, but the truth is that the Home Depot didn't have the supply I needed when I was doing this project, so I just went with the wood. Have a great day!
What flooring did you use? It complements the wall really well.
That's a great question and I can't remember exactly, but this is my best guess. I purchased the tile at Floor & Decor. www.flooranddecor.com/porcelain-tile/sedon-lodge-natural-wood-plank-porcelain-tile-100983915.html
nice work.. you weren't worried about not going into studs with the nails?
Thanks! You're right. I both hit and missed the studs, but honestly the nails were there mostly to initially hold the boards in place. They kept the boards flush with the wall while the liquid nails dried.
Very nice
Thank you!
Thank you! One more question, on the base board. The vertical boards appear to be flush, did you angle these into the existing base board?
Actually, no. It's a square cut at the end. There's a little lip on the top of my base boards the was level and I just used that as my guide.
how did you get the 216 on the horizontal line?
Hey, great question and I should have mentioned in video. The wall length was 18' and I converted it to inches (18' x 12" = 216"). I hope that helps! Have a great day!
How did you flush the boards at the bottom?
Great questions and they are not flush. I thought about this a lot, and I would have either needed to use thinner boards, or replaced the floor boards to make everything flush. I opted to leave as is and to be honest it still looks great. Because you look down on it, and the board sticks out farther than the tapered floor trim, you don't really notice it. Have a great day!
Would 1/2 X 4 work instead of 1 x4? were you nailing everything into the studs?
1/2 x 4 would definitely work. It just depends on the look you're going for! I did not nail into the studs in every case. A lot of times it was into the sheetrock and this is why I used the liquid nails. The nails help hold the boards to the sheetrock while the glue dries. 24 hours later, everything is rock solid.
What color did you use for your feature wall?
It's called Hematite by Behr. www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/N460-6/?https:%2F%2Fwww.behr.com%2Fconsumer%2F=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqP2pBhDMARIsAJQ0Czq6UcCwiQbwRzgDS3_-K9cGvnt-JJUtsjvihkM0Unp74X3YRDl4UKUaAkajEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you for all the information - one question: some other videos removed the baseboard and added another horizontal board to make everything flush on the bottom. I noticed you didn't - are your boards not flush against the baseboard?
That is a valid point, and I considered removing the baseboard, but in the end wanted to keep the baseboard matching the rest of the baseboards in the room. This means that the lowest horizontal board does stick out slight. The good news is it that it doesn't stick out too far, and your eye can't really tell. Your eye is draw to the wall and not the threshold between the board and base board. Hopefully you can get an idea of how it looks in the final shots towards end of the video. Good luck if you do a wall yourself!
What’s the finish on that paint color? Satin, flat, etc..????
Great question. It is satin.
Love that color!! What is it called????
Brown
Jk its Hematite _🙂_
Hi Jennifer! It's called Hematite and it's a Behr paint from Home Depot. On the wall I used a flat paint, and on the bed (to make it match) I used a satin.
@@nopelandfill lol
I really, really, really wanna do this.. Just looks like a ton of work for one person crew... What was total hours for wall??
It does require some time. I split it up throughout a week. I got all the materials one day, cut and sanded the boards the next, painted and installed the following, caulked and spackled the next, and then sanded and repainted the final day. I think the total time was somewhere between 20-25 hours. Good luck if you try it!
This is why I never cut it ahead of time....I cut to fit as I go. These new houses are never square....there's all kinds of drywall fluctuations and you can never assume that what you measure at one point top to bottom will be the same at another point. Its always different. Very good video, very thorough....turned out great!
Thank you! You're completely correct and I learned the hard way. Lol. Hopefully someone else will avoid this mistake by watching!
@@HandzforHire Right on man! I was also gonna say if you want to avoid all that sanding and warped garbage lumber use pvc board. Currently it’s not that much more than wood and it’s always true, can bend to uneven drywall, no sanding needed. It’s all I use these days just because most lumber sucks. Good work brother...well done!
@@SK-pn1pe That's a great idea and would have saved a lot of time.
Look fab what colour paint was that you used.
Thank you! It is Behr: Hematite
Question. Why paint the boards twice? Why not just pain them once they are on the wall?
Shouldn’t the gaps between the trims be caulked instead of spackled? Wondering if it may crack from movement.
Loved the video though! Glad to see helpful guides like this on RUclips 😊
Thanks! You bring up a really good point, and caulk is definitely better at expanding and contracting. The issue was the gaps between the boards were a little to large for caulk. Caulk can't be sanded but spackle can. I was going for the smooth surface, but you're right, it can crack over time. Perhaps a wood putty was the answer, but if it does get bad (and it hasn't yet), I could always patch pretty quickly in the future. Have a great day!
Thank you so much for the detail. I will try this next week in my guest room first then the others later. Awesome work.
That's great! Please let me know how it goes!
Would i have to remove trim and base boards to do this?
Good question. I did not remove anything. I rested the lowest horizontal boards right on top of the base boards when I did it, and it worked well.
How do you know if you hit an eletrical wire?
Great question! We are the builders/first owners of this house so I know where the electric is behind the wall. All wires run through the studs so they are not close to the sheetrock. It wouldn't be possible to hit a wire through the board and sheetrock because the nails are not long enough. Have a great day!!
Nice and classic look. There are online calculators for these kinds of project that take the guesswork out of the equation. FYI. Would have saved some headaches 😅
Thanks! Haha, that probably would have helped, but I'm always up for a math challenge. Lol. Have a great day!
Did you need to use shims?>
I was wondering why you were painting without a drop cloth 🤣...nice new floors
Great question and I was painting on over our old carpet. Right after the wall was finished, we ripped the carpet out and installed the nice tile floors. Thanks for checking in. If we had replaced the floors first, I definitely would have been using a drop cloth! Haha.
is it common to hang pictures between the squares?
I think it is if you’re able to get the frames proportional to the boxes. That would look good.
Looks awesome 👍
Thanks!
This is what I am looking for! My walls are textured but don't want to sand down heavily. What are my options?
Some people choose to place a flat panel (medium density fiberboard (MDF)) over their textured sheetrock for a smooth finish. You can find fairly thin MDF and lay sheets of it over the sheetrock prior to adding the boards. It adds a bit to the budget, but you'll get a smooth finish. It is challenging to get a textured wall smooth.
I like it, big guy. Do the slabs sit flush on top of the baseboards? I’m assuming there’s some disparity but didn’t see a closeup. Anyhow, awesome video and I’m gonna handle a very similar project this weekend. Your effort came out beautifully.
Hi Drew! Thanks! The lowest horizontal board does stick out slight. The good news is it that it doesn't stick out too far, and your eye can't really tell. Your eye is draw to the wall and not the threshold between the board and base board. Hopefully you can get an idea of how it looks in the final shots towards end of the video. Good luck if you do a wall yourself!
Did you use stud finder to put the nails ?? Or just randomly nailed into dry wall ?
Good question! Because of the pattern, I had no choice but to nail into dry wall in certain places. This is why I used Liquid Nails which hold the boards securely to the wall. The nails hold everything in place while the glue dries.
so I see some of them paint the slats and walls after it’s done but you have painted the wall and slats first is there any specific reason?
@@divyatva Since I caulked, it really didn't matter which order. I only painted first because sometimes it's hard to get into the cracks/edges of boards.
Amazing job Jay! (And Dana!!)
Looks great and I love the floors! Now just enjoy!!!!
Thanks so much!!
Nice the first panelling vid ive seen where its been done right and doesn't look like as tatty mess
Thank you! I really appreciate this comment!
Did you consider using MDF instead of pine boards?
Hi Laurett, I definitely considered it. It looks nice, and have saved me a lot of time sanding. I decided to go with the pine common boards mostly because they were immediately available at home depot, and MDF boards of similar dimensions were not. If you have the option to go with MDF, I'd say go for it!
Using liquid nails was a bad idea. What if you decide years later you don't want that look anymore? How would you remove the boards without messing up the wall?
Good point, but if I switched it up, I'd probably just replace the sheetrock. It's similar to a tile backsplash in a kitchen. You have to use an adhesive so the boards are secure. If I just did the nail gun, it would be hard to get each board into the studs. A lot of nails are just into the sheet rock. If you decide to do it without adhesive, please let me know how it goes.
There's a construction calculator online makes it soooo easy
Nice! That's another great option!
So when I go buy the wood slats, are there different types of wood to choose from ? I want to do this to my bedroom but I’m scared to be overwhelmed incase I don’t know what to get
I actually just went with the cheapest boards I could find (lol). These are pine common boards from Home Depot. I was careful while choosing. I tried straight boards with no sign of warping (not as easy as you'd think). I'd grab a board by one end and look down the length with one eye to if I saw any warping. i also tried to choose pieces without edges missing from tree knots. Hopefully that helps!
You can get premade material out of pressed fiberboard and it is primed and saves time. A little more expensive but worth it to me.
What is the name of the paint colour
Hello, it's Behr Paint (Color: Hematite) from Home Depot. Have a good one!
This looks great.
Thanks!
Is your wall textured?
No, just normal painted sheetrock.
Nice.
Thanks!
What’s the board side 1x4 ???
Yes, 1x4 common boards from home depot
Excellent video. Really helped me a lot - one Q please? Did you use the finishing nailer on the studs or was it ok with liquid nails and on the drywall etc. ?
Thanks! I appreciate it! I used the finishing nailer throughout and many of them went through boards into drywall. If I didn't use liquid nails this would have been no good for long term, but the nails acted more like a clamp until the liquid nails dried. Liquid nails doesn't hold in place until it cures, so I would have ended up with separation from the drywall or gravitational sliding without nails. Good luck if you're gearing up for this project!
Beautifully done ❤
Thank you!
What was the point of painting beforehand? After caulk, spackle you had it a complete mess again
Did you sand the wall or leave the texture?
The walls are just painted drywall, so there wasn't too much texture. I painted over the light gray with the charcoal gray (hematite). I know some people choose to put smooth panels on the wall, but we decided to keep it simple. Have a great day!
Can you buy wood that’s already sanded?
Yes, absolutely, but it is quite a bit more expensive. If you go to home depot, they'll show you where it is. Sometime the sanded wood has a bit of pre-conditioner after it's sanded which can influence the color of your stain, but for paint it's no problem at all.
Pro tip make a 33” vertical board out of scrap to measure the next spot
Thank you for that tip! If you fast forward to about 8:20, you'll see I did that very thing. Great minds think alike!
@@HandzforHire lol as I typed it came up and I was too lazy to delete it
@@VoicesUnspokenMen Lol, appreciate the honesty. Been there. No worries! Have a good one!
ALL of these DIY'ers skip over the math part and It's what's stopped me from trying these before, thank you for this!
My pleasure! Glad it helped bridge that gap. Good luck if you give it a try!
Got a laugh at the start of the video. We have the same wrought iron above our head board and are now putting up board and batton - and close to the same wall color.
Haha, that's really funny! Good luck with your project!
Love it but I think you could have saved a lot of time. Especially from the pre-painting and then repainting after spackling and caulking. I would at most prime the boards before putting up. But when I’ve done it I’ve put sanded boards up unpainted, done all the work (nails, spackling sanding caulking, hit everything with a tinted primer, let it dry and painted. When painting do brush work first then use the roller to cover as many brush marks on the panels as possible. Looks great though. Next time save yourself a few hours! :-)
Thanks - yes, you're right.
cool video :D
Thanks!
Any reason why you painted it 3 times and not just once after it was mounted 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
It was a bit overkill, but honestly painting was the quickest part of the whole job. I was able to paint all of the boards quickly on the ground which saved me detailing time when they were nailed up (especially around the border). I think I would have had to do two coats no matter what. It's perfectly fine to put them up, spackle, caulk, sand, and then paint too. Have a great day!
A good idea would have been to make a gauge rod to space the wall out would have had spaces all the same then that's what I did when I did mine 👍
Nice! That would have helped! Haha. You should make a video on that to help other DIYers. Have a great day!
That’s hard!!! 🎉
We're your walls concrete or sheetrock?
Hello! They are sheetrock.
@@HandzforHire can this be done on concrete walls as I am now building my house?
@@cometravelguyana6458I don't see why not. You can attach the boards with a glue product like liquid nails (specially designed to attach wood and concrete), and caulk in the same way I did in this video. You won't be able to use the nail gun, but if you really want to secure, you can drill and use screws to fasten. You'll have to go back and spackle the screw holes in your boards afterwards. Good luck if you decide to do it! I'm sure it will turn out nice!
Color paint
Behr Paint (Color: Hematite) from Home Depot
The wall looks nice, but the bed headboard needs to be a diff color.
I agree that the headboard could be another color to make it pop more. I just had to make sure it wasn't the bluish gray because that clashed with the wall color. Maybe I'll change it up again in the future. Have a great day!
Why do all the sanding? Just use mdf
💯