GM Just Shut Down Car Production and May Be Going Bust: ruclips.net/video/oxDufrTbJFI/видео.html ⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/33dKI0k 3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC 4. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 5. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t 6. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 7. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 8. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 9. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D 10. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/301tYt9 Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Scotty, I like where you were going, but by only taking that voltage reading (or current load test) from the battery terminal CLAMP SURFACE, it did not also completely evaluate the hidden _cable-to-clamp_ electrical condition. Those diagnostic graph "glitches" showing up simultaneously on multiple sub-systems points to a single power source problem or a bad ground somewhere. Also, it's possible that the "cheap device" was installed AFTER the initial problem showed up (in someone's failed attempt to track down the source of the initial cold engine performance complaint). *Love your videos!*
BTW, diddling around with my new Xtooltech D-8 has got me into some unnecessary TRAC/VSC reset trouble... lol
@@DonaldAJr IDK, but the truth will eventually come out. Seems unlikely it's designed to cause damage, but that is possible too with so much evil lurking about these days...
My dad had a throttle problem in his 1955 Plymouth Savoy. No fancy electronics back them, only a capacitor in the distributor. Turned out to be a chicken bone stuck under the gas pedal.
Another possibility: there's a slightly loose ground connection somewhere that causes high resistance with the right vibration when the metal is cold, but when warmed up and the metal has expanded slightly, the connection is secure enough not to exhibit the problem. With a map of where the front ground points reside, checking them for tightness could possibly remedy the problem.
I'd definitely change the battery. It has a pool of corrosion on the positive terminal. It did throw a low battery code I think too. Weak batteries can make a cars electronics go nuts.
Especially Toyota vehicles! I have an Avalon and it had a lot of corrosion on the positive terminal and one day I was driving when all of a sudden the car started acting up and my dash lit up like a Christmas tree! A little baking soda and water on that corrosion and boom! Problem solved. Same thing happened with a friend's Scion tC.
Absolutely....it can also kill an alternator by being low. The battery acts like a buffer from the alternating current so that your components aren't getting 15 volts at high rpms and lower voltage at lower rpms. So if your battery is bad or has dirty connections it can fry other electronics that are sensitive to alternating currents.
@@medix1203 Absolutely. I fried or blew out a gate in a bcm by staying on the phone in the car for 2 hrs then starting the engine. I guess it had about 11 volts. It was a really bad time & I had to junk the car.
I worked for Verizon when Verizon Wireless came out with that little contraption I believe around 2002. Instructions said to leave it in the OBD Port all the time and it would give you constant feedback on any malfunctions with your car. It was nothing but a corporate money making gimmick from people who knew nothing about vehicle maintenance. I always advised against using it despite my corporate guidance
@@johnsb1550 Hum is a vehicle diagnostic and tracking system from Verizon Communications. The system is composed of two devices: a diagnostics reader which connects to a vehicle's OBDII and a speaker with Bluetooth connectivity that can be clipped to the visor. Wikipedia
I have the hum for my son's car and I love it . I know where he is and how fast he is driving plus if the check engine light comes on it tells me what it is
@@charlesstull4582 That's it's exact function...to tattle on the driver. That's why insurance companies use them. I used to have one for roadside assistance from Tmobile and it would constantly drain my battery so I quit using it.
Hi Scotty, just some advise here from a 40 year professional electronics guy. When using electronics spray cleaners be sure to allow the cleaner to completely dry in the connector before putting the back together, even use compressed air to blow it out because any liquid cleaner left in the connector will slowly corrode the contacts over time.
I love how the accelerator pedal on my 1979 MGB is attached to my throttle with a MECHANICAL CABLE AND A SPRING. Why do I need a computer between me and my throttle?
The ONLY thing I can think of is a situation that happened with my late grandfathers (now my) old truck. I was sitting in it while it was off and I pushed the gas pedal and the cable got stuck and I had to fiddle with it to get it to spring back, not what you want happening when your driving down the road. Nonetheless I still prefer an old school cable just keep it lubricated or something
I greatly admire Scotty, but I have to disagree with him on this one (I'm not an auto mechanic, I repair medical equipment). Car computers are actually pretty well hardened against high temps, electrical glitches and spikes, etc. Years ago, I had a GM instructor tell me that of the GM computers sent back to them by auto mechanics, over 99% of those replaced computers were perfectly good... the problem is most often the sensors giving bad information to the computer, which then makes bad decisions on how to run the engine based on that bad data; Garbage In, Garbage Out. Sensors are often poorly designed, cheap, and made of cheap materials. The computers, even as complex as they are, are typically extremely reliable. I would question many other possibilities before I would begin suspecting the computer. Even a dirty or corroded electrical connector on a sensor is far more likely to cause problems than the computer itself! In those cases, a good cleaning of the dirty/corroded connections (and perhaps the application of dielectric grease to keep those connections clean) would fix the problem-- nothing at all was actually bad, neither sensors nor the computer. Electrical connections are usually where most faults lie in electric/electronic systems (electrolytic capacitors excepted). It seems to me that the action of the sensor built into the accelerator pedal should be tested waaaay before I would begin blaming the computer-- or the dongle. Those dongles, even though assembled in a 3rd world country, were probably designed in the US, Japan, or Germany, and YES, they WERE designed to stay connected to the ODBII constantly! Now if something goes wrong with them, they would probably (my guess) stop working and perhaps interfere with the CANbus data flow, a problem which might stop once the bad dongle is removed from the ODBII connector. But they typically ARE designed to stay plugged in. If it is a Chinese design, though... all bets are off. It's wise not to automatically trust cheap Chinese electronics; some is fine, some not so much. Oh... and poor electrical ground points in cars (they have many) are also very high on my list of suspects where there are any kind of electrical issues. Check the battery condition and clamps, check the alternator for normal output (no bad diodes), and look closely at the grounding points throughout the car!
I used a similar device from Progressive and had all kinds of intermittent issues until I removed it. The car was brand new, the dealership couldn't find any issues (the problems were intermittent), the Eyesight system would lose track or shutdown, the engine cut out and wouldn't start, the navigation system acted chaotically. The severe issues stopped immediately after using the device and the other issues faded over time (it's been about 4 years). I've worked with 2 wire serial systems (rs485 mostly) and have seen faulty components cause issues in other equipment connected to it.
The device likely has nothing to do with the problem. The problem is only when the vehicle is cold. Thus in "Closed Loop Mode". The base parameters for the engine are off so it performs poorly. Then when warm, it enters "Open Loop Mode" and uses more sensors like down stream oxygen sensors to operate more efficiently. This car probably has a "small" air leak after the throttle body. Intake gaskets or other, but the fuel trim and/or the mass air flow per engine size at idle should hold the key.
I'd hardly call this pinpointing the issue. He cleaned the throttle body and checked for corrosion on the accelerator connector. Then immediately leapt to the conclusion that the OBD dongle had destroyed the main computer. There was nowhere near enough diagnostic investigation to arrive at that conclusion. You need to do way more due diligence before determining that one of the most expensive repairs you can possibly do to a car is actually what needs to be done.
The first tip of rolling down the window is a good idea… sometimes in a stressful situation when you have car trouble, you might lock your key in the car… it’s a great tip.
You were right on Scotty. Usually I find this hesitation is related to fuel injectors are dirty and a can of cleaner in the gas tank and a tank of Chevron super will help it too.
Yeah it sounds more like it’s a loose ground or a bad connector. The factory service manual has procedures for properly diagnosing trouble codes including checking voltages and resistance on the different circuits. I had an intermittent check engine light on my old mustang and while I was 95% sure it was a bad O2 sensor, I still spent an hour or two following the procedure to make sure the wiring and computer was good before I shelled out the $50 for a new sensor when it could have been a loose ground. Also at 2:40 Scotty said “We know it’s a fuel problem for sure” and never once checked any part of the fuel system.
I went through something similar on my Ram recently. It started as a throttle body problem, but then quickly devolved into finding water in the pcm connector. Turns out it was creeping in via a small drip from an electrical clip retainer, to the ac lines, and then onto the connector. I was fortunate enough to find a refurbished computer for 255 bucks, and coupled with a little silicone and some bulb grease, my Ram is running great once again.
Scotty, after watching you use different scan tools for different jobs, I have decided to buy the INNOVA 5610 ... I would have liked auto VIN #, but I'll get along just fine. Thank you for what you do here.
I agree scotty, don't leave dongles in the obd slot, but the 1 thing you did wrong and should be done every time is run the throttle learn sequence on any diag equipment, thats what i saw was spiking in the graphs. Every time an electronic throttle pedal or throttle position position sensor is changed the throttle learn sequence must run, otherwise the vehicle engine ECU will revert back to previous on the ecu memory or divert to basic settings erespective of any any DTC's cleared or not.
I'm a drivability tech and can say these "dongle's" create a lot of problems especially with excessive parasitic drain on the battery. Can't trust anything if you're dealing with charging system problems. Alternators get tired after months of recharging almost dead batteries. Remember folks, alternators are designed to keep the battery charged, not for charging dead batteries and automotive batteries don't like being discharged and recharged repeatedly either.
Scotty!! I have learned from experience... I have been the employee who locks the key in the ignition multipke x hence... I adopted the window down about 10 years ago!!!! lol learned the hard way lol. nothing like having your service truck running in the cold and snow and asking the customer to hang out for an hour waiting on your supervisor to show up with the spare key lol...m
11:34 maybe one of the circuit boards has a crack in a copper trace? Because metal expands when it gets hot maybe that helps complete the circuit, but when it's cold the circuit is open? I had a similar problem in my old Isuzu Trooper. Good video 👍
There is a problem with "closed loop" mode. That is when an engine is cold and it uses base parameters to run. When it warms up it uses "open loop" mode. In open loop it uses more sensors (like the oxygen sensors) and adapts to be more efficient, and for abnormalities like altitude. This car probably has an air leak, either in the vacuum system or in the intake gaskets. Thus the "throttle" (a.k.a. air inlet) malfunction code. Long term fuel trim and mass air flow at idle for the engine size should give the answer.
@@stewartgriffin3192 Its backwards. Open loop when cold, as in the sensor circuits are open, so not "connected", closed loop when warm, as in the sensor circuits are closed, or "connected".
@@stewartgriffin3192 With the heated oxygen sensors that most cars use now, it doesn't take long at all for it to enter closed-loop. I'd say more diagnosis needs to be done related to the codes it's throwing. Maybe before condemning the ECU, he should try to understand what it's telling him a little better.
Hi Scotty - I live in Canada and my Cell phone service provider offers those OBD dongles specifically for letting the car have wifi via cell service. It also provides diagnostic info, so it does access the car computer.
I had a tmobile one that almost messed up my computer on my truck. When I finally got rid of it, everything went back to normal. These things are trash and I agree with Scotty it is just not worth the risk.
I roll the drivers window down often just in case my dachshund locks the doors again. Apparently verizon telematics is a type of monitor of car use, location, and other crap to big brother the use of the car.
One time I had a big gust of wind blow my door shut before my daughter could get out. I had locked the doors, she was getting out of her car seat to crawl over to my side for me to get her out. I kept trying to get her to push the unlock button, but she wasn't old enough to understand to push the button. Another vehicle, I jumped to do something quick, shut the door, and for whatever reason the stupid automatic locking doors triggered and locked me out. I've always ever since roll my window down at least half way.
My uncle had a big black lab for years. The number of times that Molly locked him out of his truck was hilarious. Hed put her in the truck and would forget something, run back in the house and come back to a locked truck. He unhooked the passenger switch and left the windows cracked enough to unlock them every time. The amount of times that dog did that... she lived to be about 14 or 15, so it was a lot 😂
Scotty, that looks like that verizon Hum device. It is a tracking device, diagnostic device and it give wifi access apparently. It is a monthly cost as well. Not only does it mess with the vehicle computer, you pay verizon for the pleasure of them messing up your car! Great video!
@Yeah Right Dunno if you're being sarcastic, the design is not right anyway, the OBD is not meant to be something you "plug in and forget it in", it's a diagnostic port by spec.
Judging by his diagnosis, it's was probably a throttle position sensor. They go out more often. Most are built into the throttle body. Whole throttle has to be replaced. 😁😁😁🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@hariranormal5584 He is 100% being sarcastic hints the toyota drop. Also leaving a scanner plugged in for real time diagnostic is normal so technically leaving it plugged in shouldn't do anything but this specific one is constantly connected to internet so could affect it I mean you never know.
I really don’t understand why you can’t just leave a unit plugged in. It’s just another tap on the CAN bud, which was designed for it. Maybe one of the cheap ones tries to send override commands, but I doubt Verizon is pulling that trash. I leave a Bluetooth unit plugged in my volt for monitoring. No issues in years
@rand paulin i know 2 ppl who have had issues with their car cause of these wifi dongles. 1 Verizon and 1 tmobile. Dunno why because they both ended up selling/scrapping the car but Ive learned to just stay away.
That is a telematics dongle, for vehicle tracking and recovery. It just reads data and uses the cell network to report driving habits. That is not a diagnostic dongle. Literally nearly all fleets use them Light Duty/Medium Duty/Heavy Duty. Every Semi you pass unless claiming short haul exemption, has one connected, which is required by federal law. Literately millions of those are connected to vehicles in the US. Verizon, CalAmp, KeepTrucking, Samara, Omnitracs, ATT, etc all make or have made units just like that one. Used car dealerships tend to put something in the vehicle and pay for tracking at least till the things paid for, all be it they normally use a wired one and hide it under the hood or in the trunk.
I’ve seen these types of dongles do diagnostic scanning as well but it tends to depend on the model. I’ve also seen dongles like this cause other issues like draining the battery until it has no power left. It’s been all to common for a friend of mine to go drive a box truck that was parked for a few days just to find out it needs a jumpstart.
Finally someone who's making sense! As I was watching the video I kept saying to myself no way no way no way there's no way that he's right on this! I can't believe Scotty said that! Actually, yes I can!!
Scotty might have got this one wrong. While the computer may be damaged, it’s highly possible that it was caused by the Verizon dongle. While the Verizon Hum does provide some high level diagnostics (nothing specific enough for a mechanic to use), it’s main functions are to provide WiFi connectivity and act as a GPS tracker. There are literally millions of these things on the road because companies like to know where their cars are and how many miles are driven for work rather than have to keep a paper log of all miles driven. Others use these to set speed limits for teen drivers and for geofencing to make sure a teen driver stays within a particular area. I’m fairly certain that someone has set a speed control and that speed control was sent to the PCM computer, which is how some parents and companies set and keep a speed limiter on in long-term situations so that the kid or the employee doesn’t say “well screw this, I’m just gonna unplug this thing and go fast”! Had Scotty had more background as to what this thing actually was, he might have gone into the Verizon Hum device on the website and saw “well, the employer of this woman doesn’t want her driving over 50 MPH, let me reset this here on the website and update the PCM and THEN run our diagnostics”. Just saying that it was made in Mexico (he said it twice) shows me that he should have researched more about the OBD device and what it’s uses are. My experience and the ratings on the Verizon website that these things have design issues, but I saw no one said anything about the devices frying the car’s PCM
Yeah, always blame Mexico! He didn't correctly diagnose the car! You have to individual check the systems not rely on a scan tool. It may be a fuel issue or a temp sensor issue.
If it's a Verizon HUM device and the owner didn't know about it, that's concerning. It may have been left over from a prior owner of the vehicle, or someone (husband) could have put it in to monitor her driving. The HUM devices ARE designed to remain plugged in and should not harm the vehicle, but someone buys it from Verizon & pays for the service; Verizon doesn't just put them in without permission for free. I agree that Scotty should have investigated further. He should have determined who put the device there & why, rather than blame the Verizon device without proof. The problem might have existed even before the HUM was installed. That's lazy troubleshooting.
If I'm not mistaken, that's a Verizon HUM module, which is used not just for diagnostics, but also Geofencing and driver monitoring (primarily for younger drivers and fleet vehicles). It's designed to be plugged in and stay in place so that the car can be monitored remotely. The computer certainly can be damaged by a third party device, but I think it's unlikely in this case, given that the device is purpose-built to stay plugged in.
I’m a GM owner, I have a 2018 Silverado, luckily I know how to work the on my own vehicles although there are things I will not do, having a guy like you Scotty is nice.
" Hello officer, whats the problem? Sir, you are speeding with no seatbelt on.. holy sh$t, your Scotty Kilmer. you are a legend.. fasten your belt & carry on sir"... a day in the life of Tennessee Scotty!
Computer control is the latest method of optimising the operation of various components: throttle position, ignition timing, fuel injector timing & duration. All of that is necessary to make your engine comply with emission limits. To get a better perspective, ride a 1920s motorcycle with manual controls for throttle, choke & spark advance for you to juggle.
Traction Control, Stability Control, ABS (newer, not all), Adaptive Cruise Control, Forward Collision, Ect. Drive by wire has a lot to do with modern vehicle systems. The 2$ cable is nice, but only for those that can drive. For most people on the road, I will bite the 300$ Sensor to keep them from hitting me. They would take the autonomous vehicle to play on their phone.
Since I'm an electronic technician (40+ years) I have to say that these computer systems aren't very well designed if they're not fault tolerant. Pretty much everything that is computer controlled can't be trusted. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.
would that include all electric cars? they seem like a step down from a car with a internal combustion engine. i have zero carbon guilt, thats for rich assholes who feel guilty for some reason.
I need my 1981-1982 non computer car engines overhauled.. both 3.3 liter inline 6. I need my 1990 OBD 1, Buick LeSabre Limited 3800 Series 1 overhauled and throttle body assembly rebuilt/replaced.. yet nobody knows how to overhaul engines or cares but that’s ok, Karma is my wife. I wonder if there are female mechanics that can rebuild old school engines and throttle body assembly on older vehicles?
IME I would be more suspect of the sensors vice the computer. If it were my own car I would change out the TB and the pedal rheostat assembly since they can get mechanically worn. But great job here Scotty. Really thought provoking and well done.
Been a Mechanic for over 45 years, seen that problem many times. Those Plug in Accessories that use the OBD2 Connector cause numerous problems. From that Verizon Wireless node to those insurance Driving trackers. The worse ones are the Trackers used on Police vehicles all of them have it. I checked every car I worked one for one of those stupid plug in pods, took it out, and then did my Diagnosis.....
As a technician I know this and still did it with the dumb Progressive SnapShot device to save on insurance. Thankfully, it didn't damage my ECU. If they EVER try to make me do it again, I'm finding a new insurance provider, lol.
I got the pilot app for the insurance. My phone now stays in the console and I stop if I need to use the phone. Virginia law changed when I was out of state for a year. I don't like the hands free devices
Good point. I know I left one of those 'my mechanic' in my Lexus for a while now, but I need it to reset ecu due to knock sensor failure that kills the transmission overdrive function. Now that I'll be changing the knocks, I'll be sure to remove it.
The dongle is a red harring. The more likely as the car has aged the grounds or a connection at the pcm has green crusties or the throttle motor is just out of lube. You did say the voltage is out of spec. The other issue as well is water in your gas or a fuel filter clogging which would explain the limited power. I feel this needs a revisit with a spare junk yard pcm since that car is a dime a dozen and your scan tool writes keys scotty.
I've found that ground points on cars become iffy with age, and cause a number of weird problems. I used my jumper cables and put both clamps at one end on my negative battery post, then put both clamps at the other end of the jumper cables onto a couple of different places under the hood that should also normally be grounded (one clamp onto a metal bracket on the engine, and the other clamp onto a bolt on the body also under the hood). This made the computer on my 2006 PT Cruiser stop acting up, and the analog clock now (mostly) keeps correct time. Bad grounds. Bad problems.
@@rachelblack3816 the copper wires after years patina or turn black inside the wire. Best just to replace old grounds after 10 years. Speaking of clocks my hybrid goings from 12.60v off and 14.00v on. This causes my software based clock to go ahead in time a minute every couple of months. I find older cars keep rock solid time because they use a crystal oscillator to keep time.
I guarantee you that corrosion on the positive battery terminal is causing the issue. I had the same thing happen with my 2011 Avalon and after I cleaned the corrosion off and cleared the codes it ran just fine. That was almost 2 years ago and it hasn't happened since then. Same exact thing happened with a friend's Scion tC. Cleaned the corrosion off the battery and it ran just fine.
That thing about certain parts not being kept in stock makes a lot of sense. Also, thankful that my car still has a cable operated throttle despite being made in 2016. It's like driving a 90's car but with a touchscreen
On No! I use a Scanguage II.. I leave it plugged in my port all the time (because that's how it works) I just LOVE it because I can monitor my CVT temp, and my CVT overheats a lot (Nissan) I've had it plugged in for 80K miles, and I know its saved my CVT on several occasions by warning me that its overheating. But now I'm wondering if I should be worried. Its such a cool device and it scans for everything while I drive!
Especially on potentiometers, but great for any electrical wipe-connections, I've rarely had CAIG Deoxit fail to restore intermittent faults. (And that can is a lot cheaper than $300.) It's commonly used by those who restore old electronics, does anyone else use it in automotive applications?
That's great but today they don't use as many potentiometers as they used too with the carbon strip and wiper.......as a cariable resister My 2014 has a newer system with 3 different references in one sensor Forget what they are called
Not leaving anything plugged into the OBDII diagnostic port is just common sense. But you have also reinforced my desired to never have a drive by wire car. Our 2007 Corolla 5-speeds have both been great, but even those and our 2004 Grand Cherokee are much newer than I prefer. Easily maintainable (and fun) cars were made in the 50’s and 60’s.
Yes I always roll down the window when the car is running. I had a 1987 Honda Accord that had a mind of its own. The power locks would trigger by itself randomly. Always a good practice.
I know corps with fleets of vehicles that use something like these. So far the one I personally know have had no issues with these dongles with exception that they can stick out too far and be kicked over and over. A short OBD extension cable fixed it. These dongles provide in vehicle wifi + tracking + vehicle statuses. So far, I only agree with you plugging crap in cars so far were those cheapo cigarette lighter adapters with super noisy switching power supplies that can in fact glitch out computers.
Gotta disagree with you. My alarm kept randomly going off a few minutes after I turned the car off. Eventually traced it to a faulty T-Mobile syncUP Drive.
He's saying they could, and that you should not leave ANY dongle or device routinely plugged into your OBDII port. Doesn't matter if it was provided by Verizon or Progressive.
They don’t damage your car at all. He’s just bias and searching for an easy scapegoat because he’s always glowing about Toyotas. If he was in a domestic car that computer was failing after 10 years he would be going on about how crappy the brand is and how you need to get a Toyota instead. 🙄
I always appreciate you taking the time to educate us youngsters. I wish I had the opportunity to work on cars before all the immense complex technology in these cars.
Scotty, what about a dongle that is used for tracking. Would that be able to drive with. It's not just made for diagnosing, it's made to be used for tracking.
How this system works: When the driver pushes on the gas pedal they move a variable resistor which sends a varying voltage to the computer. The computer then sends a signal to the electric motor that opens the throttle. There is another variable resistor on the throttle body (throttle position sensor, often built into the body) which indicates the throttle position and sends a voltage back to the computer. The computer compares the signal from the gas pedal and the throttle position sensor. If they match, all is OK. If they don't match the computer sets a code or codes. If the code persists, it sets a "limp home mode" which limits the throttle opening and speed. That appears to be what is happening here, but in an intermittent manner. These problems can happen due to bad/worn variable resistors (sensors), wiring problems, or connector problems. I had a similar problem with my wife's 2006 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx. It started as intermittent. I could reset the codes and the car might drive OK for days or minutes. Eventually it got to the point that it would reoccur within minutes. The code indicated a mismatch between the pedal sensor and the throttle position sensor. I couldn't be sure which was at fault so I replaced the pedal first as it was a lot cheaper. After that didn't fix the problem, I replaced the throttle body. When I took apart the old throttle body, I found that the heavy oil that lubes the electric motor gears had leaked into the position sensor and was fouling the sliding contact. My bet is that this will get worse until someone replaces the throttle body and throttle position sensor and that the computer is fine.
Been doing that ( rolling down window) for years Skotty. Learned it from my dad. He has been fixing cars in Houston Texas longer than you have been alive little fellow.
@u how old is your father, & how long has he been a mechanic. There are probably no mechanics around like your father & Scotty anymore. I know Scotty says you just have to look around for a good mechanic, but still, NOBODY seems as good anymore.
I just got my cheap scan tool in the mail today. Was planning to use it to diagnose my hesitation issues on hot AZ days when the AC is on. Already changed the alternator but I believe the voltage is dropping when the AC is on and that is causing hesitation when taking off from stop lights.
In theory, yes that device could have damaged something, but such damage would likely look very different. Even the least expensive major brand CAN interface chips (for example, MCP2561) have integrated protection for miswiring of the power supply and transients on the CAN bus. If anything other than the transceiver could be damaged by that then that sounds like a major design flaw that would have lead to many failures, and a damaged transceiver typically just doesn't work at all - not an intermittent failure or scrambled data specific to only one particular group of sensors and actuators. Some vehicles (probably not this one, but without schematics I can't say for certain) have entirely separate buses for engine control versus diagnostic information. Either way, it is unlikely that such damage would only cause an issue with a cold engine. Avoiding plugging questionable and/ or cheap electronics into your OBD port is always a good idea, but this bus is designed to have many devices permanently attached. Many thousands of commercial vehicles have similar devices installed in this manner and do not regularly suffer from these issues. At best, this dongle seems like an unrelated item.
I was looking for this. Verizon isn't exactly a $1 ebay dongle either. I'd suggest this owner check every wire and ground in the throttle and TDS systems before firing the parts cannon.
@@Watchout1010 Yes, programming the engine parameters incorrectly can create problems or even disable/ damage the engine, but even the "cheapest" such devices I have seen are a few hundred dollars with some "good" ones being multiple thousands of dollars. I would consider anything less expensive to be a "questionable and/ or cheap" device. Also, it would be highly unusual for a vehicle owner to not know that one of these tuners was attached to their vehicle.
@@Watchout1010 My understanding of the functioning of devices such as the PDI Big Boss is that they do not "constantly" reprogram the engine, but only reprogram upon user demand. Otherwise, they do constantly monitor engine parameters and display such parameters that the driver may not be able to routinely review without this tool or another similar tool. If one has the money to own a heavy diesel vehicle and then spend $2.5k on such a tuner, I would hope that they have sufficient intelligence to understand what risks they take by using such a device.
Thanks for that! I recently had a problem with my car that I needed to clear the codes (of course being a JLR engine it just randomly cleared its own codes so I did not need to buy anything or take it in) so was considering buying a diagnostic tool instead of taking it in to a repair garage. I saw the Bluetooth ones it said you could leave in to watch what happened as it drove, and had considered that. Would not want to pay the amount JLR would charge for a new engine management computer.
Uncle Scotty! How many in. lbs. or lb. ft. of torque, is your, "Ughhhh" grunt sound that you make when tightening a fastener! LOL! Thank you for your videos, your wisdom, your wit and your sense of humor!
@@Toysourboy that's the problem.... He's been working on cars since they had carburators and points and distributors.... He clearly lacks the knowledge and experience with more modern computer controlled electronic systems, and just shot from the hip "oh it's this thing made in Mexico broke the computer".... Hell, the CAR was probably made in Mexico too.
Dielectric grease on any opened electrical connector before reassembly. I wanted to buy a 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT to replace my 2017 Toyota Corolla SE rolling computer, but used Fiero prices have gone through the stratosphere. Now I have to look for a more affordable 1980s car with no electronic, computer-controlled crap. No plastic crap, either.
If I could get Scotty Kilmers to check out my car with his huge $6000 dealer level scan tool I would drink the shot of whiskey and puff on the Cannabis Cigars with him and get all schmoked up.
I have an 06 Camry that felt like it wouldn't drive until you were on the gas pedal about a half inch. Then it kicked in at around 2500 rpms. Changed the throttle body and still had the problem. I bought a used pedal from a junkyard and it's fine now. Wouldn't come up on a scanner because it didn't trigger the check engine light. 264k miles still towing my jet ski and drives like new. Best car ever made💪
10:46 WHAT ABOUT... an UltraGuage or ScanGuage digital gauge tool? It gives live data from the car's computer and displays engine information such as RPM, Speed, Coolant Temperature, etc. Good video 👍
Great vid, mind blown. I used to leave a cheap OBD diagnostics dongle loaded in my Ford Explorer. Disappointed to hear that can cause a problem but electrical connectors are ALWAYS a week point. I used to work on portable military radios and the main front electrical connector was a minor mechanical wonder - it was one of the most expensive components in the radio. Look at ALL the connectors in a car. I just replaced the window regulator in one of the doors and the entire door panel probably has 15 connectors - every one a potential failure point.
I'll put money on it that it was not the single that caused the problem but a bad solder joint on the ecm main board. He says the issue only occurs when the ecm is cold. The solder joint shrinks when it's cold and has a poor connection, when the system warms up the solder joint has better contact and the problem goes away. The dongle is a coincidence and has no relation to the problem.
Had a Verizon Hum on my 15 Fusion. Worked great at first but after a while started getting a lot of errors. Pulled that Hum out and it all went away. The Hum is the problem.
@@IJoeAceJRI You just watched a whole video about a dongle that's not built fine and used in a port that it's not meant for screw up a car's computer system. It's obviously not a chance worth taking.
@@IJoeAceJRI I don't know or care what Allstate wishes to do. Dongles like this are bad news. And how immature do you think I am to think that I was going to say stuff like that? This is about not frying your car's computer. Not everything has to be a race to the bottom of how immature RUclips commenters can be. Grow up.
Somebody else plugged it in... these things can do some diagnostics but primarily they are cheap gps tracking devices with a wireless connection service. That's load, and who has certified that the car computer can support the current requirements as a "permanent" installation? That's right: nobody. There are companies that engineer proper devices that don't drain power off of what should just be a communications bus - lojack comes to mind but I'm sure there are others. Shame on Verizon for even selling these dumb things without a separate fused power source [& instructions]. There's a quiet unwritten guidepost regarding power/protection and its this: for continuous service, avoid operating past 85% of rating. In the case of transmitters, it can be much lower - I have seen beacons that will blow fuses if operated past 65% continuous load [they were designed for modulating and staying off peak power in a quiescent state where only carrier frequency was broadcast, and were happy at 50-60% power which provided about a 15 mile range]. As always... telco's are run by crackheads.
My truck's ECU is unlocked for a tune I had done to it AND using one of those Car Insurance company OBD port dongles (to get a lower rate) attached to it made my truck's electronics go completely bonkers! Super hard shifts and I had erratic dashboard behavior. Once I removed the dongle, everything was fine. Don't attach crap to the OBD II PORT!
Some auto insurance companies offer a dongle to plug into that to monitor your driving. That plug was designed for mechanics to diagnose a problem, not meant to have something plugged into all the time
@@davinp They’re turning off the buttons on the rear view mirror & you now have an app on your phone to call if you need assistance. What if you wreck & the phone goes flying out of reach? I’m not liking the whole new plan (going into effect later this year), so I’m just canceling. PS - If you want the crash detection to work, yes it has to be plugged in while driving. All of the other features (calling & directions) I can already do with my cell…
I never like to see cars or trucks with anything that manipulates the ecm through the obd2 port, other than flash tuners and diagnostic software. Can cause big headaches if they malfunction.
Waiting for a few months/years down the line. Had a similar issue in a Hyundai Elantra, hesitated right around the shift points and refused to past a certain speed when cold, turned out to be a buggered transmission. That was a fun one to discover, I figured it was an issue with the driver assist settings and was going to leave it until the next time I took it in for service. Then one day, on my way home from work, it refused to shift out of first gear after a stop. Once we towed it in to the garage I found out there was a rash of problems with the transmissions in that model, and sure enough, once they opened up the transmission they found it absolutely wrecked. Diagnostic tools like your tablets aren't meant to remain plugged long term, but those wireless dongles actually are. That's why they're wireless. A lot of companies even require them to be connected 24/7. Before blaming the dongle, you should see if you can get a read off the dongle or actually have it tested. For all you know, that dongle was doing exactly what it was intended to do and sending all the error information you were receiving to the owner's insurance, employer or wherever.
Hey Scotty hope your doing great I drive a 2010 Pontiac G6 it has the 2.4 ecotec it’s has a 159,000 Miles The car has been a very reliable car for me is this a surprise with it being a GM Vehicle?
I had an 06 G6 convertible. Hit 103K miles and sold it to my besty (the mechanic who took care of it for the last 11 years). His wife now drives it. Regular maintenance only... did get a new computer about 4 years ago, was shutting itself off while driving. Other than the computer, I had no complaints. Now I'm into Scotty's favorite, a Toyota 4Runner.
Had to replace my gas pedal in my 2017 malibu, from the right persons advice. I delt with it for a few years, everyone always ignored the code "wouldn't cause any problems" 😅
FWIW, that dongle is part of the Verizon fleet telematics platform. We use these on a fleet of several hundred vehicles and to my knowledge it has never caused an issue. Granted, all of our vehicles are late-model commercial trucks and vans and we don't keep them more than a couple of years so perhaps older computers or long-term use may be a factor.
Correct about the can of spray cleaner but those little dongles have resistors and no way to back feed voltage at all. No possible way those can affect the ECU of a car. If you know a little about electronics you know this is a load a bull 😮💨😂
OEM parts are important for many repairs, but don't forget you can get used OEM from the junk yard or eBay sellers. That 300 pedal can seel used for 20 to 100 bucks.
The Verizon Hum has FUCKED up a lot of cars. GOGGLE it. I still think it trashed my electrical system on my ISF. Killed one battery, then another battery while I was still using it and now I am through a $450 battery in like 2 years. I think it did it's damage already.
Love your videos but disagree on your diagnosis. This is a cold engine issue, you've troubleshot the electronics, but there are far more things with cold which limits the vehicle until warmed. Since the issue is limited to that time frame concentrate more on those, throttle limiting is part of cold loop so dig into that and you'll probably find the actual issue.
SCOTTY! my mom got talked into a Verizon dongle like that and it made issues with her 07 Acura RDX! I found a quick fix for $5 on eBay! It's a negative terminal disconnect that I use to disconnect the battery overnight. Working so far
I just want to point out a big thing here. This specific device wasn't a diagnostic device. That was the dongle for the "Verizon Hum". So when you say that "these things aren't meant to be plugged in all the time" - it actually very much is meant for that purpose. Unless the device you're plugging in has internal shorts or is otherwise damaged in some way, you don't run the risk of damaging the ECM by plugging in an OBD dongle. You'd think that all the people running tuning software on their vehicles while reading from the OBD port would be way more wary of doing so if driving while using an OBD tool risked frying their ECM. Compared to the few other videos I've seen, this one is very very weird and misinforms the viewers. You clearly don't fully understand how the ECM modules in a vehicle operate on an electrical level. If these dongles cause so many issues, you'd think that auto insurance companies wouldn't offer to lower rates for people knowing full well that they'll be engaging in a future claim by the cause of their own device. This video just makes zero backable claims on this front.
@Gilbert Visperas You're right, insurance doesn't directly cover repairs. Comprehensive insurance covers damage. And if these things damaged an ECM so easily, it would be damage to the car, and done directly by the people who cover said damage. Does this not paint a pretty vivid picture in your mind? Why would a company offer to cover unlikely damage to a vehicle, but then manufacture a part to plug in to that vehicle that allows the user to save on their premium, but while also damaging their vehicle and then needing to cover the repair from that damage? My point is that the accusation of damage to the ECM was made, which may very well be the case, but there's no proof that the OBD dongle was the thing responsible. There are way too many possibilities that are infinitely more likely.
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this has class action lawsuit written all over it
I have the Toyota keyboard ---aaAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPPPPPPP!
Scotty, I like where you were going, but by only taking that voltage reading (or current load test) from the battery terminal CLAMP SURFACE, it did not also completely evaluate the hidden _cable-to-clamp_ electrical condition. Those diagnostic graph "glitches" showing up simultaneously on multiple sub-systems points to a single power source problem or a bad ground somewhere. Also, it's possible that the "cheap device" was installed AFTER the initial problem showed up (in someone's failed attempt to track down the source of the initial cold engine performance complaint). *Love your videos!*
BTW, diddling around with my new Xtooltech D-8 has got me into some unnecessary TRAC/VSC reset trouble... lol
Sprint gave us 2 of them for our vehicles and they have been in for a good 3 years. I thought it was to help with cellphone service.
@@DonaldAJr IDK, but the truth will eventually come out. Seems unlikely it's designed to cause damage, but that is possible too with so much evil lurking about these days...
My dad had a throttle problem in his 1955 Plymouth Savoy. No fancy electronics back them, only a capacitor in the distributor. Turned out to be a chicken bone stuck under the gas pedal.
Don't eat your KFC in the car--
@@elultimo102 Stop telling me how to eat
Scotty didn't check for chicken bones, that's on him 😂
😂
Stomping the stowaway chickens when passing a slow moving milk truck!
Another possibility: there's a slightly loose ground connection somewhere that causes high resistance with the right vibration when the metal is cold, but when warmed up and the metal has expanded slightly, the connection is secure enough not to exhibit the problem. With a map of where the front ground points reside, checking them for tightness could possibly remedy the problem.
I second this idea.
Third. That battery is also growing a chia pet.
@@moffatcountycustoms4641 🤣
This. Computer glitches usually run opposite, fine when cold, act up when hot.
it's a cheerful sight when opening the hood@@moffatcountycustoms4641
I hesitate in cold weather too !
Well judging by your last name you shouldn't hesitate
Check your dongle.
@@ramisabella3479 LoL
your name sounds familiar. I think there is an author named robert frost
@@carsonac4163 --And you would be Right...
I'd definitely change the battery. It has a pool of corrosion on the positive terminal. It did throw a low battery code I think too. Weak batteries can make a cars electronics go nuts.
Especially Toyota vehicles! I have an Avalon and it had a lot of corrosion on the positive terminal and one day I was driving when all of a sudden the car started acting up and my dash lit up like a Christmas tree! A little baking soda and water on that corrosion and boom! Problem solved. Same thing happened with a friend's Scion tC.
@@treysimmons2589 yup absolutely correct did the same thing to my Avalon and Camry.
Absolutely....it can also kill an alternator by being low. The battery acts like a buffer from the alternating current so that your components aren't getting 15 volts at high rpms and lower voltage at lower rpms. So if your battery is bad or has dirty connections it can fry other electronics that are sensitive to alternating currents.
@@treysimmons2589 pour slowly onto the corrode terminal with hot water (boiled temp) also help efficiently..
@@medix1203 Absolutely. I fried or blew out a gate in a bcm by staying on the phone in the car for 2 hrs then starting the engine. I guess it had about 11 volts. It was a really bad time & I had to junk the car.
I worked for Verizon when Verizon Wireless came out with that little contraption I believe around 2002. Instructions said to leave it in the OBD Port all the time and it would give you constant feedback on any malfunctions with your car. It was nothing but a corporate money making gimmick from people who knew nothing about vehicle maintenance. I always advised against using it despite my corporate guidance
@@johnsb1550 Hum is a vehicle diagnostic and tracking system from Verizon Communications. The system is composed of two devices: a diagnostics reader which connects to a vehicle's OBDII and a speaker with Bluetooth connectivity that can be clipped to the visor. Wikipedia
It is also used to track the vehicle and summons roadside assistance in an emergency .. You have to pay a monthly fee
😑
I have the hum for my son's car and I love it . I know where he is and how fast he is driving plus if the check engine light comes on it tells me what it is
@@charlesstull4582
That's it's exact function...to tattle on the driver. That's why insurance companies use them.
I used to have one for roadside assistance from Tmobile and it would constantly drain my battery so I quit using it.
Hi Scotty, just some advise here from a 40 year professional electronics guy. When using electronics spray cleaners be sure to allow the cleaner to completely dry in the connector before putting the back together, even use compressed air to blow it out because any liquid cleaner left in the connector will slowly corrode the contacts over time.
I use aircraft quality silicon paste in connectors. Keeps all the crap out.
@@tinaleanne8230 yes it does…
I’ve got the brand contact cleaner he’s using. It’s a quick drying formula that dries after a few seconds.
@@alanator6333plus people seem to forget that time goes by between video edits.
A little dielectric grease helps keep water & gunk out too.
I love how the accelerator pedal on my 1979 MGB is attached to my throttle with a MECHANICAL CABLE AND A SPRING. Why do I need a computer between me and my throttle?
Old school works better
@@dwheeler016 amen brother!!!
Same with transmissions. If I put it in neutral, it better be in neutral. It's why I prefer manual. Real manual with no computers.
You would think a simple cable should be cheaper than adding a stepper motor/controller on the throttle plate.
The ONLY thing I can think of is a situation that happened with my late grandfathers (now my) old truck. I was sitting in it while it was off and I pushed the gas pedal and the cable got stuck and I had to fiddle with it to get it to spring back, not what you want happening when your driving down the road. Nonetheless I still prefer an old school cable just keep it lubricated or something
I greatly admire Scotty, but I have to disagree with him on this one (I'm not an auto mechanic, I repair medical equipment). Car computers are actually pretty well hardened against high temps, electrical glitches and spikes, etc. Years ago, I had a GM instructor tell me that of the GM computers sent back to them by auto mechanics, over 99% of those replaced computers were perfectly good... the problem is most often the sensors giving bad information to the computer, which then makes bad decisions on how to run the engine based on that bad data; Garbage In, Garbage Out.
Sensors are often poorly designed, cheap, and made of cheap materials. The computers, even as complex as they are, are typically extremely reliable. I would question many other possibilities before I would begin suspecting the computer. Even a dirty or corroded electrical connector on a sensor is far more likely to cause problems than the computer itself! In those cases, a good cleaning of the dirty/corroded connections (and perhaps the application of dielectric grease to keep those connections clean) would fix the problem-- nothing at all was actually bad, neither sensors nor the computer. Electrical connections are usually where most faults lie in electric/electronic systems (electrolytic capacitors excepted).
It seems to me that the action of the sensor built into the accelerator pedal should be tested waaaay before I would begin blaming the computer-- or the dongle. Those dongles, even though assembled in a 3rd world country, were probably designed in the US, Japan, or Germany, and YES, they WERE designed to stay connected to the ODBII constantly! Now if something goes wrong with them, they would probably (my guess) stop working and perhaps interfere with the CANbus data flow, a problem which might stop once the bad dongle is removed from the ODBII connector. But they typically ARE designed to stay plugged in. If it is a Chinese design, though... all bets are off. It's wise not to automatically trust cheap Chinese electronics; some is fine, some not so much.
Oh... and poor electrical ground points in cars (they have many) are also very high on my list of suspects where there are any kind of electrical issues. Check the battery condition and clamps, check the alternator for normal output (no bad diodes), and look closely at the grounding points throughout the car!
Garbage in, Garbage out...
I used a similar device from Progressive and had all kinds of intermittent issues until I removed it.
The car was brand new, the dealership couldn't find any issues (the problems were intermittent), the Eyesight system would lose track or shutdown, the engine cut out and wouldn't start, the navigation system acted chaotically. The severe issues stopped immediately after using the device and the other issues faded over time (it's been about 4 years).
I've worked with 2 wire serial systems (rs485 mostly) and have seen faulty components cause issues in other equipment connected to it.
Finally someone else who uses logic and reasoning.
Ummm, yeah, he stated that he checked the electrical system near the start of the video.
@@danielsmit11 Umm, I've seen the electrical checks he does, and the equipment he uses. Yeah.
That car would be perfect for My Mom. She never drives over 50 miles an hour anyway.
🤣🤣
👍
your mom just likes putting people at risk of crashing into head on traffic and being a public nuisance. lol
She has always been a nervous type person. I used to hate riding with Her.
I drove almost 80 the other day..... I was giving it the Italian tune up and it worked
The device likely has nothing to do with the problem. The problem is only when the vehicle is cold. Thus in "Closed Loop Mode". The base parameters for the engine are off so it performs poorly. Then when warm, it enters "Open Loop Mode" and uses more sensors like down stream oxygen sensors to operate more efficiently. This car probably has a "small" air leak after the throttle body. Intake gaskets or other, but the fuel trim and/or the mass air flow per engine size at idle should hold the key.
You’ve got it backwards. Open loop in startup, cold engine, wide open throttle.
Closed loop is warmed up light driving
exactly this, fuel trims hold sooo much data, if you know what your looking at. i'm highly doubtful of this dongle diagnosis too.
Or servo gear damage in the throttle body plate control
Given how filthy the intake was, I'd check the smog system as well as it's likely quite gunked up.
That was a really intriguing video watching Scotty go through everything and pinpoint the issue. Too bad for the customer 🙁
So don't let your dingle dongle dangle in the dirt.
@@moncorp1 it's hard to run when you have a strange dongle stuck in you. I can only imagine. 😏
I'd hardly call this pinpointing the issue. He cleaned the throttle body and checked for corrosion on the accelerator connector. Then immediately leapt to the conclusion that the OBD dongle had destroyed the main computer. There was nowhere near enough diagnostic investigation to arrive at that conclusion. You need to do way more due diligence before determining that one of the most expensive repairs you can possibly do to a car is actually what needs to be done.
@@Rowgue51 I 100% agree, so much more to look into here then him saying main computer.
The first tip of rolling down the window is a good idea… sometimes in a stressful situation when you have car trouble, you might lock your key in the car… it’s a great tip.
You were right on Scotty. Usually I find this hesitation is related to fuel injectors are dirty and a can of cleaner in the gas tank and a tank of Chevron super will help it too.
FINALLY someone gets it. That's what use and my car runs tit's.
Yeah it sounds more like it’s a loose ground or a bad connector. The factory service manual has procedures for properly diagnosing trouble codes including checking voltages and resistance on the different circuits. I had an intermittent check engine light on my old mustang and while I was 95% sure it was a bad O2 sensor, I still spent an hour or two following the procedure to make sure the wiring and computer was good before I shelled out the $50 for a new sensor when it could have been a loose ground. Also at 2:40 Scotty said “We know it’s a fuel problem for sure” and never once checked any part of the fuel system.
I would check for bad grounds before changing the ECU.
Amen! He didn't even attempt the most likely fix.
@@JohnDeanT utube salesman now; easier than precision mechanic's work
I went through something similar on my Ram recently. It started as a throttle body problem, but then quickly devolved into finding water in the pcm connector. Turns out it was creeping in via a small drip from an electrical clip retainer, to the ac lines, and then onto the connector. I was fortunate enough to find a refurbished computer for 255 bucks, and coupled with a little silicone and some bulb grease, my Ram is running great once again.
Scotty, after watching you use different scan tools for different jobs, I have decided to buy the INNOVA 5610 ... I would have liked auto VIN #, but I'll get along just fine. Thank you for what you do here.
I agree scotty, don't leave dongles in the obd slot, but the 1 thing you did wrong and should be done every time is run the throttle learn sequence on any diag equipment, thats what i saw was spiking in the graphs. Every time an electronic throttle pedal or throttle position position sensor is changed the throttle learn sequence must run, otherwise the vehicle engine ECU will revert back to previous on the ecu memory or divert to basic settings erespective of any any DTC's cleared or not.
This is what I was thinking. Plus dont ever open a throttle with a stick 😱
Thank you so much for being out there to help little old ladies like me. Don’t go!!!!!!
I'm a drivability tech and can say these "dongle's" create a lot of problems especially with excessive parasitic drain on the battery. Can't trust anything if you're dealing with charging system problems. Alternators get tired after months of recharging almost dead batteries. Remember folks, alternators are designed to keep the battery charged, not for charging dead batteries and automotive batteries don't like being discharged and recharged repeatedly either.
Scotty!! I have learned from experience... I have been the employee who locks the key in the ignition multipke x hence... I adopted the window down about 10 years ago!!!! lol learned the hard way lol. nothing like having your service truck running in the cold and snow and asking the customer to hang out for an hour waiting on your supervisor to show up with the spare key lol...m
Runs like a scolded egg! i love that man,i watch every video,amazing honest person with incredible knowledge.
These are my favorite videos that Scotty makes. Old school how to
11:34 maybe one of the circuit boards has a crack in a copper trace? Because metal expands when it gets hot maybe that helps complete the circuit, but when it's cold the circuit is open?
I had a similar problem in my old Isuzu Trooper.
Good video 👍
There is a problem with "closed loop" mode. That is when an engine is cold and it uses base parameters to run. When it warms up it uses "open loop" mode. In open loop it uses more sensors (like the oxygen sensors) and adapts to be more efficient, and for abnormalities like altitude. This car probably has an air leak, either in the vacuum system or in the intake gaskets. Thus the "throttle" (a.k.a. air inlet) malfunction code. Long term fuel trim and mass air flow at idle for the engine size should give the answer.
@@stewartgriffin3192 Its backwards. Open loop when cold, as in the sensor circuits are open, so not "connected", closed loop when warm, as in the sensor circuits are closed, or "connected".
@@stewartgriffin3192 With the heated oxygen sensors that most cars use now, it doesn't take long at all for it to enter closed-loop. I'd say more diagnosis needs to be done related to the codes it's throwing. Maybe before condemning the ECU, he should try to understand what it's telling him a little better.
Hi Scotty - I live in Canada and my Cell phone service provider offers those OBD dongles specifically for letting the car have wifi via cell service. It also provides diagnostic info, so it does access the car computer.
I had a tmobile one that almost messed up my computer on my truck. When I finally got rid of it, everything went back to normal. These things are trash and I agree with Scotty it is just not worth the risk.
Cmon, let them install a SPYING DEVICE in YOUR CAR.. It will save you $2 a MONTH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not if you actually use the car tho then it's full price. Surprised they dont charge some people more just for driving like an ahole
I’ve had Verizon Hum in my kids and our loaner cars at work for years. Never caused a problem.
I roll the drivers window down often just in case my dachshund locks the doors again. Apparently verizon telematics is a type of monitor of car use, location, and other crap to big brother the use of the car.
👏🏻
One time I had a big gust of wind blow my door shut before my daughter could get out. I had locked the doors, she was getting out of her car seat to crawl over to my side for me to get her out. I kept trying to get her to push the unlock button, but she wasn't old enough to understand to push the button. Another vehicle, I jumped to do something quick, shut the door, and for whatever reason the stupid automatic locking doors triggered and locked me out. I've always ever since roll my window down at least half way.
My uncle had a big black lab for years. The number of times that Molly locked him out of his truck was hilarious. Hed put her in the truck and would forget something, run back in the house and come back to a locked truck. He unhooked the passenger switch and left the windows cracked enough to unlock them every time. The amount of times that dog did that... she lived to be about 14 or 15, so it was a lot 😂
Always have an extra key in your pocket.
Lesson learned after (during) 55 years of driving.
Scotty, that looks like that verizon Hum device. It is a tracking device, diagnostic device and it give wifi access apparently. It is a monthly cost as well. Not only does it mess with the vehicle computer, you pay verizon for the pleasure of them messing up your car! Great video!
@Yeah Right Dunno if you're being sarcastic, the design is not right anyway, the OBD is not meant to be something you "plug in and forget it in", it's a diagnostic port by spec.
Judging by his diagnosis, it's was probably a throttle position sensor. They go out more often. Most are built into the throttle body. Whole throttle has to be replaced. 😁😁😁🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@hariranormal5584 He is 100% being sarcastic hints the toyota drop. Also leaving a scanner plugged in for real time diagnostic is normal so technically leaving it plugged in shouldn't do anything but this specific one is constantly connected to internet so could affect it I mean you never know.
I really don’t understand why you can’t just leave a unit plugged in. It’s just another tap on the CAN bud, which was designed for it. Maybe one of the cheap ones tries to send override commands, but I doubt Verizon is pulling that trash. I leave a Bluetooth unit plugged in my volt for monitoring. No issues in years
@rand paulin i know 2 ppl who have had issues with their car cause of these wifi dongles. 1 Verizon and 1 tmobile. Dunno why because they both ended up selling/scrapping the car but Ive learned to just stay away.
That is a telematics dongle, for vehicle tracking and recovery. It just reads data and uses the cell network to report driving habits. That is not a diagnostic dongle. Literally nearly all fleets use them Light Duty/Medium Duty/Heavy Duty. Every Semi you pass unless claiming short haul exemption, has one connected, which is required by federal law. Literately millions of those are connected to vehicles in the US. Verizon, CalAmp, KeepTrucking, Samara, Omnitracs, ATT, etc all make or have made units just like that one. Used car dealerships tend to put something in the vehicle and pay for tracking at least till the things paid for, all be it they normally use a wired one and hide it under the hood or in the trunk.
I’ve seen these types of dongles do diagnostic scanning as well but it tends to depend on the model.
I’ve also seen dongles like this cause other issues like draining the battery until it has no power left. It’s been all to common for a friend of mine to go drive a box truck that was parked for a few days just to find out it needs a jumpstart.
Finally someone who's making sense! As I was watching the video I kept saying to myself no way no way no way there's no way that he's right on this! I can't believe Scotty said that! Actually, yes I can!!
@@stephentidwell2244 Yeah they can drain the battery, but it usually takes quite a few weeks.
@@usmdude1983 knowing the company that is involved their trucks sometimes sit around longer than that at times
Scotty might have got this one wrong. While the computer may be damaged, it’s highly possible that it was caused by the Verizon dongle. While the Verizon Hum does provide some high level diagnostics (nothing specific enough for a mechanic to use), it’s main functions are to provide WiFi connectivity and act as a GPS tracker. There are literally millions of these things on the road because companies like to know where their cars are and how many miles are driven for work rather than have to keep a paper log of all miles driven. Others use these to set speed limits for teen drivers and for geofencing to make sure a teen driver stays within a particular area. I’m fairly certain that someone has set a speed control and that speed control was sent to the PCM computer, which is how some parents and companies set and keep a speed limiter on in long-term situations so that the kid or the employee doesn’t say “well screw this, I’m just gonna unplug this thing and go fast”! Had Scotty had more background as to what this thing actually was, he might have gone into the Verizon Hum device on the website and saw “well, the employer of this woman doesn’t want her driving over 50 MPH, let me reset this here on the website and update the PCM and THEN run our diagnostics”. Just saying that it was made in Mexico (he said it twice) shows me that he should have researched more about the OBD device and what it’s uses are. My experience and the ratings on the Verizon website that these things have design issues, but I saw no one said anything about the devices frying the car’s PCM
Does this surprise u. He just keeps yelling at me!
Yeah, always blame Mexico! He didn't correctly diagnose the car! You have to individual check the systems not rely on a scan tool. It may be a fuel issue or a temp sensor issue.
I have to agree with you. Maybe take it to Pine Hollow Diagnostics. That guy can find any problem.
Casual racism
If it's a Verizon HUM device and the owner didn't know about it, that's concerning. It may have been left over from a prior owner of the vehicle, or someone (husband) could have put it in to monitor her driving. The HUM devices ARE designed to remain plugged in and should not harm the vehicle, but someone buys it from Verizon & pays for the service; Verizon doesn't just put them in without permission for free. I agree that Scotty should have investigated further. He should have determined who put the device there & why, rather than blame the Verizon device without proof. The problem might have existed even before the HUM was installed. That's lazy troubleshooting.
If I'm not mistaken, that's a Verizon HUM module, which is used not just for diagnostics, but also Geofencing and driver monitoring (primarily for younger drivers and fleet vehicles). It's designed to be plugged in and stay in place so that the car can be monitored remotely. The computer certainly can be damaged by a third party device, but I think it's unlikely in this case, given that the device is purpose-built to stay plugged in.
Sounds like a class action suit in the making for Verizon.
Sounds like Scotty is just full of crap and Toyota is not immune from failures like any other car brands he hollers is just crap.
He cant prove the dongle caused it. Its a used car.
I’m a GM owner, I have a 2018 Silverado, luckily I know how to work the on my own vehicles although there are things I will not do, having a guy like you Scotty is nice.
" Hello officer, whats the problem? Sir, you are speeding with no seatbelt on.. holy sh$t, your Scotty Kilmer. you are a legend.. fasten your belt & carry on sir"... a day in the life of Tennessee Scotty!
Would someone please tell me how a computer controlled $300 throttle sensor is better than a $2 cable?
Computer control is the latest method of optimising the operation of various components: throttle position, ignition timing, fuel injector timing & duration. All of that is necessary to make your engine comply with emission limits. To get a better perspective, ride a 1920s motorcycle with manual controls for throttle, choke & spark advance for you to juggle.
Something related to "intelligent timing" and "better fuel economy" ?
Traction Control, Stability Control, ABS (newer, not all), Adaptive Cruise Control, Forward Collision, Ect. Drive by wire has a lot to do with modern vehicle systems. The 2$ cable is nice, but only for those that can drive. For most people on the road, I will bite the 300$ Sensor to keep them from hitting me. They would take the autonomous vehicle to play on their phone.
Well some cars park themselves nowadays. I dont think your $2 cable does that.
More profit for the dealers because more things to break.
Since I'm an electronic technician (40+ years) I have to say that these computer systems aren't very well designed if they're not fault tolerant. Pretty much everything that is computer controlled can't be trusted. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.
I am software developer and I concur, especially with voting machines.
would that include all electric cars? they seem like a step down from a car with a internal combustion engine. i have zero carbon guilt, thats for rich assholes who feel guilty for some reason.
I need my 1981-1982 non computer car engines overhauled.. both 3.3 liter inline 6. I need my 1990 OBD 1, Buick LeSabre Limited 3800 Series 1 overhauled and throttle body assembly rebuilt/replaced.. yet nobody knows how to overhaul engines or cares but that’s ok, Karma is my wife. I wonder if there are female mechanics that can rebuild old school engines and throttle body assembly on older vehicles?
@@brighter22 voting machines, really.
@@brighter22 --LOL...
dielectric grease pushed into electrical connections has solved so many problems for me over the decades, cant even count anymore.
IME I would be more suspect of the sensors vice the computer. If it were my own car I would change out the TB and the pedal rheostat assembly since they can get mechanically worn. But great job here Scotty. Really thought provoking and well done.
Been a Mechanic for over 45 years, seen that problem many times. Those Plug in Accessories that use the OBD2 Connector cause numerous problems. From that Verizon Wireless node to those insurance Driving trackers. The worse ones are the Trackers used on Police vehicles all of them have it. I checked every car I worked one for one of those stupid plug in pods, took it out, and then did my Diagnosis.....
As a technician I know this and still did it with the dumb Progressive SnapShot device to save on insurance. Thankfully, it didn't damage my ECU. If they EVER try to make me do it again, I'm finding a new insurance provider, lol.
I was not so lucky. Can’t get any data off of it but the car still runs so 🤷🏻♂️
I got the pilot app for the insurance. My phone now stays in the console and I stop if I need to use the phone. Virginia law changed when I was out of state for a year. I don't like the hands free devices
Good point. I know I left one of those 'my mechanic' in my Lexus for a while now, but I need it to reset ecu due to knock sensor failure that kills the transmission overdrive function. Now that I'll be changing the knocks, I'll be sure to remove it.
The dongle is a red harring. The more likely as the car has aged the grounds or a connection at the pcm has green crusties or the throttle motor is just out of lube. You did say the voltage is out of spec. The other issue as well is water in your gas or a fuel filter clogging which would explain the limited power. I feel this needs a revisit with a spare junk yard pcm since that car is a dime a dozen and your scan tool writes keys scotty.
I've found that ground points on cars become iffy with age, and cause a number of weird problems. I used my jumper cables and put both clamps at one end on my negative battery post, then put both clamps at the other end of the jumper cables onto a couple of different places under the hood that should also normally be grounded (one clamp onto a metal bracket on the engine, and the other clamp onto a bolt on the body also under the hood). This made the computer on my 2006 PT Cruiser stop acting up, and the analog clock now (mostly) keeps correct time. Bad grounds. Bad problems.
@@rachelblack3816 the copper wires after years patina or turn black inside the wire. Best just to replace old grounds after 10 years. Speaking of clocks my hybrid goings from 12.60v off and 14.00v on. This causes my software based clock to go ahead in time a minute every couple of months. I find older cars keep rock solid time because they use a crystal oscillator to keep time.
I guarantee you that corrosion on the positive battery terminal is causing the issue. I had the same thing happen with my 2011 Avalon and after I cleaned the corrosion off and cleared the codes it ran just fine. That was almost 2 years ago and it hasn't happened since then. Same exact thing happened with a friend's Scion tC. Cleaned the corrosion off the battery and it ran just fine.
That thing about certain parts not being kept in stock makes a lot of sense.
Also, thankful that my car still has a cable operated throttle despite being made in 2016. It's like driving a 90's car but with a touchscreen
On No! I use a Scanguage II.. I leave it plugged in my port all the time (because that's how it works) I just LOVE it because I can monitor my CVT temp, and my CVT overheats a lot (Nissan) I've had it plugged in for 80K miles, and I know its saved my CVT on several occasions by warning me that its overheating. But now I'm wondering if I should be worried. Its such a cool device and it scans for everything while I drive!
Especially on potentiometers, but great for any electrical wipe-connections, I've rarely had CAIG Deoxit fail to restore intermittent faults. (And that can is a lot cheaper than $300.)
It's commonly used by those who restore old electronics, does anyone else use it in automotive applications?
That's great but today they don't use as many potentiometers as they used too with the carbon strip and wiper.......as a cariable resister
My 2014 has a newer system with 3 different references in one sensor
Forget what they are called
Not leaving anything plugged into the OBDII diagnostic port is just common sense. But you have also reinforced my desired to never have a drive by wire car. Our 2007 Corolla 5-speeds have both been great, but even those and our 2004 Grand Cherokee are much newer than I prefer. Easily maintainable (and fun) cars were made in the 50’s and 60’s.
14:15=The cat was priceless 🤣
Yes I always roll down the window when the car is running. I had a 1987 Honda Accord that had a mind of its own. The power locks would trigger by itself randomly. Always a good practice.
I know corps with fleets of vehicles that use something like these. So far the one I personally know have had no issues with these dongles with exception that they can stick out too far and be kicked over and over. A short OBD extension cable fixed it. These dongles provide in vehicle wifi + tracking + vehicle statuses. So far, I only agree with you plugging crap in cars so far were those cheapo cigarette lighter adapters with super noisy switching power supplies that can in fact glitch out computers.
Gotta disagree with you. My alarm kept randomly going off a few minutes after I turned the car off. Eventually traced it to a faulty T-Mobile syncUP Drive.
@@cooldaddyslick6869 did a replacement resolve this?
@@kakurerud7516 Yeah me taking it out solved it.
@@cooldaddyslick6869 but what about putting in a non defective unit. I am an electronics guy and actually want to know ;)
@@kakurerud7516 Yes. I bought another one. The issue never came back
I’d get a junkyard gas pedal sensor and throttle body before condemning the PCM
Do the insurance dongles do damage too?
He's saying they could, and that you should not leave ANY dongle or device routinely plugged into your OBDII port. Doesn't matter if it was provided by Verizon or Progressive.
They don’t damage your car at all. He’s just bias and searching for an easy scapegoat because he’s always glowing about Toyotas. If he was in a domestic car that computer was failing after 10 years he would be going on about how crappy the brand is and how you need to get a Toyota instead. 🙄
@@WillieMeetsWorld He's an animated character and fun to listen to but electrical isn't his strong suit.
WOW most mechanics won't even go halfway Scotty did to find the problem. This is proper data analysis!!
I always appreciate you taking the time to educate us youngsters. I wish I had the opportunity to work on cars before all the immense complex technology in these cars.
Scotty, what about a dongle that is used for tracking. Would that be able to drive with. It's not just made for diagnosing, it's made to be used for tracking.
i missed the part where the verizon device cost thousands of repairs
Of course, there is no proof that this VZW device did anything of the sort...
Scotty’s rates just went up
Throttle relearn is needed after cleaning throttle. That’s how I fixed mine .
That's what I was wondering. He didn't even mention anything about that.
How this system works: When the driver pushes on the gas pedal they move a variable resistor which sends a varying voltage to the computer. The computer then sends a signal to the electric motor that opens the throttle. There is another variable resistor on the throttle body (throttle position sensor, often built into the body) which indicates the throttle position and sends a voltage back to the computer. The computer compares the signal from the gas pedal and the throttle position sensor. If they match, all is OK. If they don't match the computer sets a code or codes. If the code persists, it sets a "limp home mode" which limits the throttle opening and speed.
That appears to be what is happening here, but in an intermittent manner. These problems can happen due to bad/worn variable resistors (sensors), wiring problems, or connector problems.
I had a similar problem with my wife's 2006 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx. It started as intermittent. I could reset the codes and the car might drive OK for days or minutes. Eventually it got to the point that it would reoccur within minutes.
The code indicated a mismatch between the pedal sensor and the throttle position sensor. I couldn't be sure which was at fault so I replaced the pedal first as it was a lot cheaper. After that didn't fix the problem, I replaced the throttle body. When I took apart the old throttle body, I found that the heavy oil that lubes the electric motor gears had leaked into the position sensor and was fouling the sliding contact.
My bet is that this will get worse until someone replaces the throttle body and throttle position sensor and that the computer is fine.
Great analysis by analogy.
You're a solid DIY tech !
I DIY my 2 Mercedes its rewarding & keeps me out of trouble.
And free from car payments LOL !
I know people who have these OBDII plug in trackers from their insurance companies. They put them in in hopes of getting lower insurance.
Been doing that ( rolling down window) for years Skotty. Learned it from my dad. He has been fixing cars in Houston Texas longer than you have been alive little fellow.
Where are his videos?
Nobody cares.
@u how old is your father, & how long has he been a mechanic. There are probably no mechanics around like your father & Scotty anymore. I know Scotty says you just have to look around for a good mechanic, but still, NOBODY seems as good anymore.
I just got my cheap scan tool in the mail today. Was planning to use it to diagnose my hesitation issues on hot AZ days when the AC is on. Already changed the alternator but I believe the voltage is dropping when the AC is on and that is causing hesitation when taking off from stop lights.
In theory, yes that device could have damaged something, but such damage would likely look very different. Even the least expensive major brand CAN interface chips (for example, MCP2561) have integrated protection for miswiring of the power supply and transients on the CAN bus. If anything other than the transceiver could be damaged by that then that sounds like a major design flaw that would have lead to many failures, and a damaged transceiver typically just doesn't work at all - not an intermittent failure or scrambled data specific to only one particular group of sensors and actuators. Some vehicles (probably not this one, but without schematics I can't say for certain) have entirely separate buses for engine control versus diagnostic information. Either way, it is unlikely that such damage would only cause an issue with a cold engine.
Avoiding plugging questionable and/ or cheap electronics into your OBD port is always a good idea, but this bus is designed to have many devices permanently attached. Many thousands of commercial vehicles have similar devices installed in this manner and do not regularly suffer from these issues. At best, this dongle seems like an unrelated item.
I was looking for this. Verizon isn't exactly a $1 ebay dongle either. I'd suggest this owner check every wire and ground in the throttle and TDS systems before firing the parts cannon.
Have seen these REPROGRAMMERS cause driveability problems.-tried one-claims of b/s-you cannot get more power and economy at the same time-
@@Watchout1010 Yes, programming the engine parameters incorrectly can create problems or even disable/ damage the engine, but even the "cheapest" such devices I have seen are a few hundred dollars with some "good" ones being multiple thousands of dollars. I would consider anything less expensive to be a "questionable and/ or cheap" device. Also, it would be highly unusual for a vehicle owner to not know that one of these tuners was attached to their vehicle.
@@r2db constantly reprogramming a programmed computer is problems in waiting-murphys law.
@@Watchout1010 My understanding of the functioning of devices such as the PDI Big Boss is that they do not "constantly" reprogram the engine, but only reprogram upon user demand. Otherwise, they do constantly monitor engine parameters and display such parameters that the driver may not be able to routinely review without this tool or another similar tool.
If one has the money to own a heavy diesel vehicle and then spend $2.5k on such a tuner, I would hope that they have sufficient intelligence to understand what risks they take by using such a device.
Thanks for that! I recently had a problem with my car that I needed to clear the codes (of course being a JLR engine it just randomly cleared its own codes so I did not need to buy anything or take it in) so was considering buying a diagnostic tool instead of taking it in to a repair garage. I saw the Bluetooth ones it said you could leave in to watch what happened as it drove, and had considered that. Would not want to pay the amount JLR would charge for a new engine management computer.
And to think my insurance company wanted me to use an OBD recorder so I asked them if they were going to repair my car when it blew my computer. 🤔
Uncle Scotty! How many in. lbs. or lb. ft. of torque, is your, "Ughhhh" grunt sound that you make when tightening a fastener! LOL! Thank you for your videos, your wisdom, your wit and your sense of humor!
That's probably what messed up the cars computer, great job Scotty! Lesson well learned I hope. 😎👍
@@WhiteTree97 Not always necessary.
I woudlnt blame the computer. It was probably the throttle pedal, throttle body or wiring harness. When in doubt, swap with a salvage part.
@@WhiteTree97 You're basically telling a Mechanic who's been working on cars for 50-60 years how to do his job what lol.
Bad transmission torque converter was what was wrong with mine, dealer replaced it for free
@@Toysourboy that's the problem.... He's been working on cars since they had carburators and points and distributors.... He clearly lacks the knowledge and experience with more modern computer controlled electronic systems, and just shot from the hip "oh it's this thing made in Mexico broke the computer".... Hell, the CAR was probably made in Mexico too.
Dielectric grease on any opened electrical connector before reassembly.
I wanted to buy a 1988 Pontiac Fiero GT to replace my 2017 Toyota Corolla SE rolling computer, but used Fiero prices have gone through the stratosphere.
Now I have to look for a more affordable 1980s car with no electronic, computer-controlled crap. No plastic crap, either.
Remember Progressive telling people to plug them into that port? I do.
Replaced my accelarator pedal on 2010 toyota. It was not smooth. Found it on ebay. New oem straight from China. $65. Works great now.
If I could get Scotty Kilmers to check out my car with his huge $6000 dealer level scan tool I would drink the shot of whiskey and puff on the Cannabis Cigars with him and get all schmoked up.
I have an 06 Camry that felt like it wouldn't drive until you were on the gas pedal about a half inch. Then it kicked in at around 2500 rpms. Changed the throttle body and still had the problem. I bought a used pedal from a junkyard and it's fine now. Wouldn't come up on a scanner because it didn't trigger the check engine light. 264k miles still towing my jet ski and drives like new. Best car ever made💪
10:46 WHAT ABOUT... an UltraGuage or ScanGuage digital gauge tool? It gives live data from the car's computer and displays engine information such as RPM, Speed, Coolant Temperature, etc.
Good video 👍
Wondering the same thing!
Never had a problem with the Ultra Guage I bought. Used it every day on a 2014 Chevy Sonic,2017 Kia Sportage and now a 2020 Ranger.
Great vid, mind blown. I used to leave a cheap OBD diagnostics dongle loaded in my Ford Explorer. Disappointed to hear that can cause a problem but electrical connectors are ALWAYS a week point. I used to work on portable military radios and the main front electrical connector was a minor mechanical wonder - it was one of the most expensive components in the radio. Look at ALL the connectors in a car. I just replaced the window regulator in one of the doors and the entire door panel probably has 15 connectors - every one a potential failure point.
I'll put money on it that it was not the single that caused the problem but a bad solder joint on the ecm main board. He says the issue only occurs when the ecm is cold. The solder joint shrinks when it's cold and has a poor connection, when the system warms up the solder joint has better contact and the problem goes away. The dongle is a coincidence and has no relation to the problem.
But the problem is, you didn’t actually solve anything for SURE.. so how can we be sure it was the ‘dongle’?
I'm not convinced of the diagnosis in this particular instance, but definitely agree with Scotty to stay away from those dongles.
I always roll down the window 😂😂😂😂 it’s programmed in my head
Had a Verizon Hum on my 15 Fusion. Worked great at first but after a while started getting a lot of errors. Pulled that Hum out and it all went away. The Hum is the problem.
Allstate has me keep a dongle plugged in to monitor my driving habits in exchange for a discount on my monthly premiums. Is this bad?
possibly, yes
Yes. It is bad.
@@IJoeAceJRI You just watched a whole video about a dongle that's not built fine and used in a port that it's not meant for screw up a car's computer system. It's obviously not a chance worth taking.
@@IJoeAceJRI I don't know or care what Allstate wishes to do. Dongles like this are bad news.
And how immature do you think I am to think that I was going to say stuff like that? This is about not frying your car's computer. Not everything has to be a race to the bottom of how immature RUclips commenters can be. Grow up.
@@IJoeAceJRI OK, sorry I misunderstood you.
Somebody else plugged it in... these things can do some diagnostics but primarily they are cheap gps tracking devices with a wireless connection service. That's load, and who has certified that the car computer can support the current requirements as a "permanent" installation? That's right: nobody. There are companies that engineer proper devices that don't drain power off of what should just be a communications bus - lojack comes to mind but I'm sure there are others. Shame on Verizon for even selling these dumb things without a separate fused power source [& instructions]. There's a quiet unwritten guidepost regarding power/protection and its this: for continuous service, avoid operating past 85% of rating. In the case of transmitters, it can be much lower - I have seen beacons that will blow fuses if operated past 65% continuous load [they were designed for modulating and staying off peak power in a quiescent state where only carrier frequency was broadcast, and were happy at 50-60% power which provided about a 15 mile range]. As always... telco's are run by crackheads.
Wow. I always learn alot from you Scotty. Please always make more videos. I've really come to rely on you.
My truck's ECU is unlocked for a tune I had done to it AND using one of those Car Insurance company OBD port dongles (to get a lower rate) attached to it made my truck's electronics go completely bonkers! Super hard shifts and I had erratic dashboard behavior. Once I removed the dongle, everything was fine. Don't attach crap to the OBD II PORT!
Some auto insurance companies offer a dongle to plug into that to monitor your driving. That plug was designed for mechanics to diagnose a problem, not meant to have something plugged into all the time
OnStar is also wanting people with 3G to update by using a dongle. Guess I’ll switch to AAA soon.
@@lynnhoffman247 but do you need to keep plug in all the time while driving? It's ok just to update and then unplug after finish.
@@davinp They’re turning off the buttons on the rear view mirror & you now have an app on your phone to call if you need assistance. What if you wreck & the phone goes flying out of reach? I’m not liking the whole new plan (going into effect later this year), so I’m just canceling.
PS - If you want the crash detection to work, yes it has to be plugged in while driving. All of the other features (calling & directions) I can already do with my cell…
Cruise control module would limit speed and throttle response. Tps sensors go bad all the time ever since the went with the electronic throttle body.
I never like to see cars or trucks with anything that manipulates the ecm through the obd2 port, other than flash tuners and diagnostic software. Can cause big headaches if they malfunction.
chevy owners need that range afm deleter tho
Waiting for a few months/years down the line. Had a similar issue in a Hyundai Elantra, hesitated right around the shift points and refused to past a certain speed when cold, turned out to be a buggered transmission. That was a fun one to discover, I figured it was an issue with the driver assist settings and was going to leave it until the next time I took it in for service. Then one day, on my way home from work, it refused to shift out of first gear after a stop. Once we towed it in to the garage I found out there was a rash of problems with the transmissions in that model, and sure enough, once they opened up the transmission they found it absolutely wrecked.
Diagnostic tools like your tablets aren't meant to remain plugged long term, but those wireless dongles actually are. That's why they're wireless. A lot of companies even require them to be connected 24/7. Before blaming the dongle, you should see if you can get a read off the dongle or actually have it tested. For all you know, that dongle was doing exactly what it was intended to do and sending all the error information you were receiving to the owner's insurance, employer or wherever.
Hey Scotty hope your doing great I drive a 2010 Pontiac G6 it has the 2.4 ecotec it’s has a 159,000 Miles The car has been a very reliable car for me is this a surprise with it being a GM Vehicle?
I had an 06 G6 convertible. Hit 103K miles and sold it to my besty (the mechanic who took care of it for the last 11 years). His wife now drives it. Regular maintenance only... did get a new computer about 4 years ago, was shutting itself off while driving. Other than the computer, I had no complaints. Now I'm into Scotty's favorite, a Toyota 4Runner.
Had to replace my gas pedal in my 2017 malibu, from the right persons advice. I delt with it for a few years, everyone always ignored the code "wouldn't cause any problems" 😅
Years ago I would sell these things like hotcakes. I would never in a million years use one but people loved the idea 💡 😂
FWIW, that dongle is part of the Verizon fleet telematics platform. We use these on a fleet of several hundred vehicles and to my knowledge it has never caused an issue. Granted, all of our vehicles are late-model commercial trucks and vans and we don't keep them more than a couple of years so perhaps older computers or long-term use may be a factor.
Correct about the can of spray cleaner but those little dongles have resistors and no way to back feed voltage at all. No possible way those can affect the ECU of a car. If you know a little about electronics you know this is a load a bull 😮💨😂
That dongle can interfere with module communication on the controller area network. That can give you weird issues.
@@ubahd00d Show us proof that this thing does what you said it does...
OEM parts are important for many repairs, but don't forget you can get used OEM from the junk yard or eBay sellers. That 300 pedal can seel used for 20 to 100 bucks.
Buen dato amigo
The Verizon Hum has FUCKED up a lot of cars. GOGGLE it. I still think it trashed my electrical system on my ISF. Killed one battery, then another battery while I was still using it and now I am through a $450 battery in like 2 years. I think it did it's damage already.
Love your videos but disagree on your diagnosis. This is a cold engine issue, you've troubleshot the electronics, but there are far more things with cold which limits the vehicle until warmed. Since the issue is limited to that time frame concentrate more on those, throttle limiting is part of cold loop so dig into that and you'll probably find the actual issue.
SCOTTY! my mom got talked into a Verizon dongle like that and it made issues with her 07 Acura RDX! I found a quick fix for $5 on eBay! It's a negative terminal disconnect that I use to disconnect the battery overnight. Working so far
I just want to point out a big thing here. This specific device wasn't a diagnostic device. That was the dongle for the "Verizon Hum". So when you say that "these things aren't meant to be plugged in all the time" - it actually very much is meant for that purpose. Unless the device you're plugging in has internal shorts or is otherwise damaged in some way, you don't run the risk of damaging the ECM by plugging in an OBD dongle. You'd think that all the people running tuning software on their vehicles while reading from the OBD port would be way more wary of doing so if driving while using an OBD tool risked frying their ECM. Compared to the few other videos I've seen, this one is very very weird and misinforms the viewers. You clearly don't fully understand how the ECM modules in a vehicle operate on an electrical level.
If these dongles cause so many issues, you'd think that auto insurance companies wouldn't offer to lower rates for people knowing full well that they'll be engaging in a future claim by the cause of their own device. This video just makes zero backable claims on this front.
The Verizon ones in particular have killed a few that I've seen. Always verizon.
@Gilbert Visperas You're right, insurance doesn't directly cover repairs. Comprehensive insurance covers damage. And if these things damaged an ECM so easily, it would be damage to the car, and done directly by the people who cover said damage. Does this not paint a pretty vivid picture in your mind?
Why would a company offer to cover unlikely damage to a vehicle, but then manufacture a part to plug in to that vehicle that allows the user to save on their premium, but while also damaging their vehicle and then needing to cover the repair from that damage?
My point is that the accusation of damage to the ECM was made, which may very well be the case, but there's no proof that the OBD dongle was the thing responsible. There are way too many possibilities that are infinitely more likely.