Flat Tappet Camshaft Break In
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- Follow these simple steps to break in your flat tappet cam shaft! If you missed the video where I removed my old cam shaft and installed a new on, check it out here:
Removal: • Ford 302 Camshaft Removal
Install: • Ford 302 Camshaft Install
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When breaking in your cam shaft you want to focus on 4 main things:
1. Zinc - With a flat tappet cam you want to use an oil with zinc or add zinc in.
2. Run the engine between 1,500 to 3,000 rpm for 20 to 30 min.
3. Oil the rockers, using an old drill with the valve cover off.
4. Change the oil and oil filter after 500 miles and add zinc.
The break in tips are the same on the Bronco, the F150, and the Mustang. All Ford engines around this era.
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I was born in Cleveland Ohio and loved Hot rod's, then i moved to Rainelle WV and become a red sort of neck and fell in love with pickups and 4x4s so I'll give ya a thumbs up for that, and for the 5 kids by 9 men you get a subscription !!!
All the best to you and yours Sir.
Haha! Thank you
I rebuilt the engine on my '69 sometime in the early 80's, and it still runs great. I used the same Edelbrock kit, but used roller rockers. I remember the same break in steps, this was a nice review.
Thanks Mike
This was the info I was hoping for when you did the start up vid. Thanks!
Awesome vid man! It would be cool if you can post a vid comparing the idle and how different it sounds with the new cam. Obviously after you fix the exhaust haha. Thanks for posting your vids!
Awesome rig good job
Hey Man... Its LAFONDA!
WTF! You didn't mind tipping me last year when you and your boys from Duff were at Kens Gold Club for your annual meeting!
Mike was a FUN one!!!!
He's a bit to touchy feely though... Got me in trouble with my Boss.
Hope to see y'all this year! Oh wait... Covid19!! Stay home!!!! 😆
The Zinc actually has not been removed from the oil, it's just been reduced, it used to be around 1200 parts per million, now most oils only have 600-800.
However, there are oils which have a good amount of Zinc still out there.
Valvoline Vr1 10W-30 for example has 1300 parts per millon of Zinc, and it's better to buy an oil with an already high amount of Zinc in it than buying an additive.
Good info, appreciate it
Vr1 is good oil and its 30 for a 5qt jug at orilleys
Really enjoy your videos-especially this segment. Getting ready to add an Edelbrock power package top end kit on my 1977 Bronco. Hope my mechanic buddy didn’t see all these.....the Pappy set the bar pretty high-he’ll have to settle Banton’s!😀🥃
Haha! Blanton’s is good too! That top end kit will be awesome
What weight oil for the 20 minute process, the 500 mile process, and then aftrewards?
After the 500 miles would you still use zinc oil or just a zinc additive
great video
Is it a bad idea to break in a flat tappet cam with holley efi? Being it will be my first time installing both of these parts
Do you remove your inner springs?
Good stuff
So, did you see good improvement with the new cam?
Hey there, I’m getting close to breaking in my 302s new camshaft it I’m worried about getting it started on my first key turn.
How do I stab the distributor for initial firing? Do I stab at 0 degrees or do I stab at where I want my initial?
Do I turn it to advance it at all(like I’ve seen talk of 1/4 a turn of the unit)
I could really use some help here. Thank you
Seven kids from nine men? LaFonda really needed a good break in period
What size socket did you use to get oil to flow up to your rocket arms?
Are you planning to do a follow up dyno test? It would be interesting to compare the new cam results with your stock cam dyno numbers.
I am, but I’ve replaced so much other stuff it will be hard to tell what was just cam.
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco Will be interesting regardless! Thanks for posting these vids.
This video was awesome! haha I'm not even talking about when you mentioned my girl LaFonda(which was freakin hilarious!) but you had some great tech stuff too! Sick stuff, Jon! Better get to driving so you can make it to Super Cel haha
Haha! Thanks man! Yes!!!!
Is that an exhaust leak? Hear a ticking sound
The camshaft whisperer
Don't use any oil that's NOT non detergent. Until your furnished your break in.Zinc will NOT mix with detergent based oils.
Thanks as always for your videos! Have you ever changed your cam bearings? Do you just inspect the cam journals and if no damage you are good to go? The don't have a ton of load on them so if you don't damage them taking the cam in and out you are good to go? I know this sounds like such a basic question and funny enough I have actually rebuilt a couple 302s and had new cam bearings put in by machinist but never just a cam change only. Every cam change video I have watched has not really addressed this. Thanks and have a good 'wheelin' season! Hope you keep the Bronco together enough between "how to" videos to enjoy it this summer!
Thanks! The way I understand it is if you don’t damage them, then they are find to stay in there.
You have a lifter pecking or a rocker arm that’s loose
I don’t know if you have noticed it yet but it’s perty bad witch ever one it is.
What size cam did you go back with?
It was a loose rocker arm. I tightened it. I went with the Edelbrock 2122
To prime did u use a socket at the end?
Yeah but I taped it on so I wouldn’t lose it down the hole.
Did y'all have to adjust the lifter or did you just torque down the bolts for the lifters and called it a day
Casey, I'm at this stage now, what was your decision?
What did you use for the zinc additive?
So you know Lafonda too,??
😂😂
No dont use Zinc Additive use high Zinc oil
Don't take an older car to Valvoline because they will not put zinc additive in your car's engine if it has a flat target Cam shaft and wont tell you about it
what brand coin are you using>?
MSD Blaster 2
Did you use stock push rods??
Yes I did
*RPM not RPM's.
I’ll remember for next time
Rs PM
I guess the natives are restless. Revolution per minutes?
None of this high rpm break-in makes sense. The opposite, low rpm does make sense. No car factory ever breaks in an engine first start, not ever, for over 120 years. Start the engine, drive it to the parking lot, turn it off.
How many engines have been stored for 1, 30, 70 years but start and run fine? Abandoned in a field? No lube at all, dry.
The cam turns 300 rpm at 600 rpm idle. The lobes are actually pushing the lifters ~1/3 of that, duration of ~120°. So about 100 lifts per minute or 1.7 per second. You can blink or tap your finger thrice as fast, for perspective.
This is trivial and breakin grease or even oil is plenty. When you raise the rpm 4 times idle you have increased the velocity at which the lobe approaches the lifter and the speed that the lobe wipes accross the lifter thus increasing friction dramatically. Like starting a fire by twisting a stick on a piece of wood slowly vs very fast. And pump oil pressure from lifter bore and crank slinging takes a few seconds at LOW rpm.
A drill or lathe tool with no lube experience much higher pressures and dont dull unless the rpm is very high.
LOL SEVEN kids from NINE different men? Did a few of them DP in the attempt to co-conceive????
Please, no jibber jabber. Get to the details and make it concise.
Too much talk. Get to the point
Goddamn you talk a lot ..
Ridiculous notions - No car manufacturer ever went through these break-in steps...why do you think it necessary? All oils still contain ZDDP and the amount is not important...it works the same no matter the ppm content. These are not lawnmower engines...the cam does NOT get it's oiling from any "splash" effect thus no need for more rpm. In reality most parts are mated from the starter motor alone. Here you will find all the facts you need to understand... 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/