Yeah definitely I’ve never been that particular about breaking in a engine. Just watching it is stressful. But it makes sense on a car as nice as this one to take the extra precautions. Awesome job!
Awesome video. Thanks for the uncut full cam break in. Just goes to show that in a garage assembling and fabricating is one thing, but the stress of it coming together and everybody giving 100% to keep it smooth is another. Gear heads are another breed, and make me proud.
If the motor has to stop during break in then all is not lost. Just shut it down being careful to not let it idle. Fix the leak/charging system/interference etc etc then re start and continue like it is the 1st start. A master engine builder told me that and indeed I have had cause to switch a motor off during cam break in a couple of times over the years and the camshaft and lifters were fine.
Man reminds me of when I broke in my RAM AIR III cam on my 69 GTO. I was just about done on time when the lower radiator hose let loose and blew steam all up in the garage. Also I had forgotten to tighten the Starter Positive battery cable all the way down so during the break in it vibrated loose and all that current caught the cable on fire. All I knew from the drivers seat I heard a load bang, steam and smoke poring out from under the hood and I shut the motor down and grabbed the garden hose and put the fire out. After shaking like a leaf for 20 minutes thinking I had almost burned my GTO the ground and my home with it, I finally calmed down. The good part is all I had to do was replace the GM Stock Tower clamp as this was a partial restoration, and the battery cable. I put water in it and it fired right up. I still have that GTO and Short block I built back in the mid 90's in my GTO today, and it runs fine. Yep I know that sinking feeling so well. The lesson I learned was triple check everything, especially those hose clamps. MOST IMPORTANTLY never start a newly rebuild engine in an enclosed garage. Always take it out to the driveway in open air. Sad as it was a guy a few blocks away had and 1967 Grand Prix Convertible and it caught fire too in his garage and burnt his house to the ground, along with his newly un-insured $25,000.00 Grand Prix. Sniff Sniff. Thanks for sharing Rich I was on pins and needles the whole time. Probably just like you were. Don't forget to put the rear alternator bracket back on. Oh PS one bank on the Pontiac V8's do run hotter. The reason is there is an extra water jacket hole on one side and not on the other. I think the extra hole is on the passenger side, I don't remember. Do a little research and you'll find it, if not just put the head gaskets on the block and look for the water hole on the other side of the gasket that's not drilled. Drill the hole out the same as the other side and that will help some. I did it on mine years ago. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya.
That was great! Junkyard Digs nailed the problem pretty quick. I betcha that was the best powertour any of those guys had including Eric. It's one thing to show off but totally another to be able to help out using your hard won knowledge.
HotRodding seems to be complicated. You first need to ruin a hotel room and then have 5dudes pouring water over an engine and then you can drive. I also drank the blood of 5 virgins while watching
@@SuperHessu555 , the consensus of all those opinions was - "when you get it home, take it apart and see what's making all that noise". Lots of folks helping to put it together (right or wrong), nobody helping to take it apart to fix it. :o)
My brother and me installed a bunch of different cams . We let them run at 2000 to 2400 RPMs for about fifteen minutes. They all performed like they should. Good job guys
Nice attempt! Its great to have so many guys helping out to make this rebuild happen. Unfortunately, it also allows for more mistakes and assumptions to occur.
I personally think the absolute most important and often overlooked gauges a guy can have is an oil temp gauge. Oil temp will reflect possible internal damage far before coolant temp. That being said I'll be assembling a 430 Buick big block for my 68 GS soon. I'll be sure to double check that windage tray/crank relationship without fail now. Good video. Not many people understand how nerve wracking a cam break-in truly can be. Especially if you have no source of running water and depend on buckets and jugs when things start to get hot.
Nice gathering of automotive youtubers :) I'm still happy by how many new people you've introduced to me that I can now watch :) Maybe one day I can make videos on the levels of all yall haha.
This is what i like real situations and real life setbacks ,i have lived this many times its almost like being a detective in mechanics to solve issues
I pegged the engine temp gauge during my break in. I was freaking out until I realized I had a big air bubble in my coolant. My break in was by no means perfect. Shut the truck off 3 different times. But 800 miles since the break in so far and the engine runs great! No tac either.
Cole Knoernschild my dad had a flat tappet 350 and it overheated during break in and we did half one day and the other half the next day because the fumes were bad. But it runs perfect and have no problems so far 300 miles after break in
@@landonbbrackett9550 just sold that truck I can swapped. Over 4k since the swap, ran great, and didn't need to reset the lash either. Did an oil change, nothing on the plug.
This is why I love doing break ins on diesels. Even on the old mechanical injected engines, the governors are rpm sensitive. You adjust the throttle to whatever rpm you want, and the governor will keep it there. No need to sit there with your foot on the throttle trying to hold it where you want it
This exact thing happened when I fired up my rebuilt 400 in my Lemans. Crank was hitting the windage tray. Some thick washers fixed it. Not happy about pulling the engine, but it all worked out.
I just finished helping a friend pull a worn out 350 SBC and a TH350 out of his 72 chevelle wagon. I wish I had the space and money to do this myself. I’d be broke in no time. Edit:typo fix.
Is that a deutz in the background rich???? Glorious machines one of my favourite brands to work on. Ps loving the series keep up the great content and longer vids respect from NZ
broke in cam on an 1835CC vw engine on buggy with open exhaust at apartment complex garage once, they were NOT impressed with us the least bit... after normal hours and they maint. guys phone and pager were ringing non stop, of course he couldn't here it standing right there along side :))
I think Rich's channel is one of the better auto channels , with that said I'm concerned about the survival of the cam due to how long it took to get it to start in the first place.
My experience from my younger days dictates that flat lifters all need to be radius ground (if I remember, about half a thou only radius). It is this radius grinding that ensures rotation of the lifter. And of course special run in oil is always recommended (high in zinc specifically) not your you beat synthetic race oil normally used. You can run the engine at idle for a short period (couple of minutes) to check for leaks, then come up to the cam break in speed for the rest of the process.
While your explanation of the break in procedure is possible and very likely part of the reason it is done that way, the real reason is that the cam is lubed by splash oil from the escaping pressurized oil from the connecting rods, the rpm ensures that the splash oil reaches the cam at that critical time to initiate the lifters turning. Or that is what I was told about it
Wow, when it came time to get it cranked and running up high it only took 14 hands to get it done! 7 frickin guys running around. How many of them worked for a manufacturer of engine components?
Dude in the dark red shirt just out of the blue tells rich"WE" think it's running on seven, who's "WE" buddy??? Diggs nailed it,Dude knows his shit,that's for sure.
That was brave using the sniper for the cam break in. I was so concerned about running the sniper on my rebuild that I intentionally went with a retrofit Howards Roller Cam kit for my 400 SBC. I was right in that I had a hard time setting the initial IAC circuit on my first sniper run. In order to get in the ball park with the IAC, I had to block its inlet port and loosely set the fast idle and match the physical timing to the ECU without it in the picture. While trying to get the block up to temp I mistakenly rev'd the engine to 1700 to speed up the heat soak. The ECU got a little confused without the accurate IAC readings and leaned out the passenger side cylinder bank. I was using a dual plane intake at the time. I was damn lucky I didn't roast a valve as far as I know. I think quality cylinder head parts saved my ass that day. Two final things I had to do with my sniper as it didn't have the progressive linkage option: I had to install a half inch 4 barrel spacer on top of my single plane Holley Street Dominator intake to eliminate the turbo waste gate sound on rapid deceleration. Apparently it doesn't hurt anything but I was tried of attracting the attention of rice rocket jockeys at every stop light. The second thing had to to with my solid rod throttle linkage. I had to install a Dominator carb throttle extension to slow down the travel arc of the throttle body. Without this mod, my impala couldn't be safely driven and was literally lifting the front tires on every single blip of the throttle pedal. Like riding a bull. Given the size of your Ponitac 462 I would look for a good single plane. I have noticed much better overall manners with the Sniper using one. My roller cam was sized to be the biggest I could go without having to go with a custom torque converter. I am also using 3.36 highway gears. It's a 3700 lb cruiser with a one hell of an attitude
I remember Gas Monkey Garage killing many cams in their show. Eventually their builder refused to let them start an engine without him being present to break in the engine properly.
Solid cam break in, the most fear filled few minutes of any engine builder or shade-tree's life. Last one i did was in a 65 VW Baja with a built 2185cc 225hp flat four. Thing ate 5 gallons of fuel in the 20 minute break in at 2500rpm, carbs where out of wack but the bitch ran on the first try so we sent it. Holy shit, is that ThunderHead289?!
@@MrDrBlahh I reply to most comments under mine, especially if I can help! Plus it increases social interaction for the channel, helping them get more views.
Poor Rich, he looked really stressed during this process. I've run into the same problem myself with the heads on ARP con rod bolts being just a little bit taller than the stock ones, and hitting the sump pan as a result.
Yes and no , the main reason for the increased break in RPM is oil supply . The increased engine speed means increased oil pump speed which means the lobes are flushed nicely while all that carnage is going on.
I had 2 flat tappet camshafts go flat on my Nova during break in , the 3rd cam I just went retro-roller on my sbc. I have a Holley on my sbc and when my cam went flat it backfired through the carb. EDIT: I just saw the previous vid, so it looks like your cam survived :)
How do you balance the need to break in a cam with the need to seat the rings Can you go to high load work after cam breakin and theey still seat fine or is 20 mins enough for the cyl walls to glaze over and ruin your chances of good compression
Did you ever see John force break in a cam or seat the rings. Ha ha it does not happen. If you have the correct oil pressure the lifters will spin. If they do not you did something wrong.
Break in procedure, Rotella 5w30, zinc additive and drive it around the neighborhood like a teen age boy for 20 minutes, change oil to Rotella 15w40 diesel oil (still contains zinc) and enjoy. Break them in like you use them.
if it's too far off you can melt things/catch fire during break in or overheat quickly, they should have set it with "static" method beforehand, crank at TDC/advance you want, wires off plugs, timing light and crank dist against normal rotation until it blinks and bam your close ;)
either an exhaust leak and you are seeing "fire" or that's a view down through into the back side of "flexplate" sure they didn't have the inspection pan on since trans was loose because of no clearance **EDIT seen it at different parts of timeline, it's for sure the back side of flexplate and if there's lightening holes the converter also, it's just dancing around due to rpm and camera frame rates.
The older guys around here swear by flat tappets, simply because there are less moving parts.( and these dudes love the chop). Now these old guys are probably talking about old motors, so i'm probably no help in finding you an answer sorry :)
Roller cams have less friction= less wear and rolling resistance. The only real downside to roller cams is the cost of retrofitting into an engine that didnt come with one from the factory. Fords started with them in the early 80's and they ran forever, now LS engines are doing the same thing. Gm wouldn't install them in all their engines if flat tapped was a better choice...just my opinion.
Thanks guys. Sounds like rollers are generally preferred but the retrofit can be expensive on older heads. And of course the old timers like what they like. Thanks for responding. I'm about to delete the oil cooler on my S10(4.3l v6 2wd), the lines are always leaking and it never overheats. I'm better off deleting that and adding a cooler to the 4l60e trans it's mated to.
Like 289 said, rods would be hanging and the center part (mains) would be well all one solid how to weld steel and cast steel and make it hold/LOL. He held his ground and good for him. I like his channel also. Sadly, I think your Pony is addicted to engine swaps/pulls. Try to get some miles on it like go door to door selling tape measures/ouch.... that was low but hang Rich, your smarter than ten other claim to be's with sponsors and a unlimited "patreon" account plus dads silver spoon that has never been found!!!! I love yer stuff man. I pray you make it big cause you don't whine and wheres the cheese... Canadians are tough and I am from/still are alaska
Why is nothing ever said about new cars and cam break in. I had never heard of it until the last say 20 years. Back in the '60s I had an "code" 401 hp Ford and a couple 350 Camaros all with 4 speed trans and solid lifter cams and nothing was ever done about cam break in. I think we would have put it in the same park as muffler fuel.
Probably because new cars do not use high pressure valve springs and hi lift cams. And what modern car uses flat tappets? I do know what you are saying though. Even years ago I doubt they did this to new engines at the factory. Back in 85 I did use this type of break in on my mild build 289. And I used regular 10w40 oil. Nothing special. I would do it different if I had to do it again. No break in like this and I would use a good quality synthetic oil. The engine would get broke in on the road running it hard right away.. Just my opinion but I think this type of break in is BS and not necessary.
most everything went "factory" roller lifter by early to mid 90's, the ones that didn't are overhead cam setups with followers/rockers and other methods.
I dont know why but i always feel like the wipe lobe thing is a myth...or harder to do than it sounds. I know i dont have experience with it though. Just seems odd that is xan be so touchy but then after break in by fine for 300,000 miles. How did engine builders ever figure out the break in thing? Isnt it more that the metal gets hardened by burnishing? I mean back in the day did auto manufacturers break in the engines on the assembly line or something?
@@deanwitt7903 Why would millions of hot-rodders do it if it's a myth then? And don't give me the whole 50's and 60's cars argument, I've already seen that from you. Just curious what you think about it.
![How To NOT Blow Up a Pontiac 455 | #RustAvengers [EP4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dluhr75sa3o/mqdefault.jpg)
What amazes me is oil, just think how many metal on metal areas there is in an engine and a film of oil is what keeps them apart.
Man those 15 minutes were INTENSE
Yeah definitely I’ve never been that particular about breaking in a engine. Just watching it is stressful. But it makes sense on a car as nice as this one to take the extra precautions. Awesome job!
The amount of awesome youtubers stuffed into the first 40 seconds of this video puts a smile to my face...
That is true.
Bro seriously!! It's crazy that one guy talking about the cool cool chambers is in the video with deboss. It's a small world.
Awesome video. Thanks for the uncut full cam break in. Just goes to show that in a garage assembling and fabricating is one thing, but the stress of it coming together and everybody giving 100% to keep it smooth is another. Gear heads are another breed, and make me proud.
If the motor has to stop during break in then all is not lost. Just shut it down being careful to not let it idle.
Fix the leak/charging system/interference etc etc then re start and continue like it is the 1st start. A master engine builder told me that and indeed I have had cause to switch a motor off during cam break in a couple of times over the years and the camshaft and lifters were fine.
Man reminds me of when I broke in my RAM AIR III cam on my 69 GTO. I was just about done on time when the lower radiator hose let loose and blew steam all up in the garage. Also I had forgotten to tighten the Starter Positive battery cable all the way down so during the break in it vibrated loose and all that current caught the cable on fire. All I knew from the drivers seat I heard a load bang, steam and smoke poring out from under the hood and I shut the motor down and grabbed the garden hose and put the fire out. After shaking like a leaf for 20 minutes thinking I had almost burned my GTO the ground and my home with it, I finally calmed down. The good part is all I had to do was replace the GM Stock Tower clamp as this was a partial restoration, and the battery cable. I put water in it and it fired right up. I still have that GTO and Short block I built back in the mid 90's in my GTO today, and it runs fine. Yep I know that sinking feeling so well. The lesson I learned was triple check everything, especially those hose clamps. MOST IMPORTANTLY never start a newly rebuild engine in an enclosed garage. Always take it out to the driveway in open air. Sad as it was a guy a few blocks away had and 1967 Grand Prix Convertible and it caught fire too in his garage and burnt his house to the ground, along with his newly un-insured $25,000.00 Grand Prix. Sniff Sniff. Thanks for sharing Rich I was on pins and needles the whole time. Probably just like you were. Don't forget to put the rear alternator bracket back on. Oh PS one bank on the Pontiac V8's do run hotter. The reason is there is an extra water jacket hole on one side and not on the other. I think the extra hole is on the passenger side, I don't remember. Do a little research and you'll find it, if not just put the head gaskets on the block and look for the water hole on the other side of the gasket that's not drilled. Drill the hole out the same as the other side and that will help some. I did it on mine years ago. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya.
Keith Noneya - cool
Wheres your fast idle stick?
That was great! Junkyard Digs nailed the problem pretty quick. I betcha that was the best powertour any of those guys had including Eric. It's one thing to show off but totally another to be able to help out using your hard won knowledge.
This "in the weeds" explanation of cam break-in is why I so enjoy your channel. Well done buddy!
There's nothing like 5 guys standing around giving opinions :)
DUMB!
HotRodding seems to be complicated. You first need to ruin a hotel room and then have 5dudes pouring water over an engine and then you can drive. I also drank the blood of 5 virgins while watching
@@SuperHessu555 , the consensus of all those opinions was - "when you get it home, take it apart and see what's making all that noise". Lots of folks helping to put it together (right or wrong), nobody helping to take it apart to fix it.
:o)
Yep. but, the guy in the black t-shirt seems to have the Best ones 👍😉
EVERYBODY GOT A ANSWER
My brother and me installed a bunch of different cams . We let them run at 2000 to 2400 RPMs for about fifteen minutes. They all performed like they should. Good job guys
Nice attempt! Its great to have so many guys helping out to make this rebuild happen. Unfortunately, it also allows for more mistakes and assumptions to occur.
So awesome to see such earnest honest people troubleshooting a problem like that. You guys have a great community
i'm not sure if im excited or scared to break my build in now! thanks lol
I personally think the absolute most important and often overlooked gauges a guy can have is an oil temp gauge. Oil temp will reflect possible internal damage far before coolant temp.
That being said I'll be assembling a 430 Buick big block for my 68 GS soon. I'll be sure to double check that windage tray/crank relationship without fail now. Good video. Not many people understand how nerve wracking a cam break-in truly can be. Especially if you have no source of running water and depend on buckets and jugs when things start to get hot.
Nice gathering of automotive youtubers :) I'm still happy by how many new people you've introduced to me that I can now watch :) Maybe one day I can make videos on the levels of all yall haha.
This is what i like real situations and real life setbacks ,i have lived this many times its almost like being a detective in mechanics to solve issues
Dunno if you follow any sort of script but the way you explain things is really impressing me
I pegged the engine temp gauge during my break in. I was freaking out until I realized I had a big air bubble in my coolant. My break in was by no means perfect. Shut the truck off 3 different times. But 800 miles since the break in so far and the engine runs great! No tac either.
Cole Knoernschild my dad had a flat tappet 350 and it overheated during break in and we did half one day and the other half the next day because the fumes were bad. But it runs perfect and have no problems so far 300 miles after break in
@@landonbbrackett9550 just sold that truck I can swapped. Over 4k since the swap, ran great, and didn't need to reset the lash either. Did an oil change, nothing on the plug.
It is nice when so many car guys are talking.
This is why I love doing break ins on diesels. Even on the old mechanical injected engines, the governors are rpm sensitive. You adjust the throttle to whatever rpm you want, and the governor will keep it there. No need to sit there with your foot on the throttle trying to hold it where you want it
This exact thing happened when I fired up my rebuilt 400 in my Lemans. Crank was hitting the windage tray. Some thick washers fixed it. Not happy about pulling the engine, but it all worked out.
Shout out to Vice Grip Garage! Well I'll be dipped.
i really appreciate how real you guys kept the process and never gave up. good stuff!
I have no idea how you would do that on your own. What a great team effort by everyone!
That was intense. it really was like a surgery. what a great group of guys
If Rich had hair to pull out, it would have happened there.
Put the Oil pressure gauge under the wiper blade, look ma no hands.
That oil pressure gauge just screamed shade tree mechanic. Never use anything but copper tube it you do not want to get burned
I just finished helping a friend pull a worn out 350 SBC and a TH350 out of his 72 chevelle wagon.
I wish I had the space and money to do this myself. I’d be broke in no time.
Edit:typo fix.
Is that a deutz in the background rich???? Glorious machines one of my favourite brands to work on. Ps loving the series keep up the great content and longer vids respect from NZ
The explanation at the beginning of this video is excellent, thank you.
broke in cam on an 1835CC vw engine on buggy with open exhaust at apartment complex garage once, they were NOT impressed with us the least bit...
after normal hours and they maint. guys phone and pager were ringing non stop, of course he couldn't here it standing right there along side :))
@@TRX450RVlogger what's wrong with vw engines when they own a ton of unique ones
Good to show people how hectic and nerve racking cam break ins are
like a cat in a room full of rocking chairs :))
I think Rich's channel is one of the better auto channels , with that said I'm concerned about the survival of the cam due to how long it took to get it to start in the first place.
I had to break in a 460 single handed years ago. This video stresses me out.
high anxiety thumping heart beat for sure !
Nice to see a couple of guys i follow here...intense, great job guys.........
My experience from my younger days dictates that flat lifters all need to be radius ground (if I remember, about half a thou only radius). It is this radius grinding that ensures rotation of the lifter. And of course special run in oil is always recommended (high in zinc specifically) not your you beat synthetic race oil normally used. You can run the engine at idle for a short period (couple of minutes) to check for leaks, then come up to the cam break in speed for the rest of the process.
Good team of good guys...great to watch.
All the youtube greats in one video 😄
Thank You for your time showing this !!!!
While your explanation of the break in procedure is possible and very likely part of the reason it is done that way, the real reason is that the cam is lubed by splash oil from the escaping pressurized oil from the connecting rods, the rpm ensures that the splash oil reaches the cam at that critical time to initiate the lifters turning. Or that is what I was told about it
Wow, when it came time to get it cranked and running up high it only took 14 hands to get it done! 7 frickin guys running around. How many of them worked for a manufacturer of engine components?
I like how the guy from vice grips garage can read a face and know when to be quiet.
Dude in the dark red shirt just out of the blue tells rich"WE" think it's running on seven, who's "WE" buddy??? Diggs nailed it,Dude knows his shit,that's for sure.
real time? what happened to fake time?
That was brave using the sniper for the cam break in. I was so concerned about running the sniper on my rebuild that I intentionally went with a retrofit Howards Roller Cam kit for my 400 SBC.
I was right in that I had a hard time setting the initial IAC circuit on my first sniper run. In order to get in the ball park with the IAC, I had to block its inlet port and loosely set the fast idle and match the physical timing to the ECU without it in the picture.
While trying to get the block up to temp I mistakenly rev'd the engine to 1700 to speed up the heat soak. The ECU got a little confused without the accurate IAC readings and leaned out the passenger side cylinder bank. I was using a dual plane intake at the time. I was damn lucky I didn't roast a valve as far as I know. I think quality cylinder head parts saved my ass that day.
Two final things I had to do with my sniper as it didn't have the progressive linkage option:
I had to install a half inch 4 barrel spacer on top of my single plane Holley Street Dominator intake to eliminate the turbo waste gate sound on rapid deceleration. Apparently it doesn't hurt anything but I was tried of attracting the attention of rice rocket jockeys at every stop light.
The second thing had to to with my solid rod throttle linkage. I had to install a Dominator carb throttle extension to slow down the travel arc of the throttle body. Without this mod, my impala couldn't be safely driven and was literally lifting the front tires on every single blip of the throttle pedal. Like riding a bull.
Given the size of your Ponitac 462 I would look for a good single plane. I have noticed much better overall manners with the Sniper using one. My roller cam was sized to be the biggest I could go without having to go with a custom torque converter. I am also using 3.36 highway gears. It's a 3700 lb cruiser with a one hell of an attitude
Scott McCambley - cool
I remember Gas Monkey Garage killing many cams in their show. Eventually their builder refused to let them start an engine without him being present to break in the engine properly.
Solid cam break in, the most fear filled few minutes of any engine builder or shade-tree's life.
Last one i did was in a 65 VW Baja with a built 2185cc 225hp flat four. Thing ate 5 gallons of fuel in the 20 minute break in at 2500rpm, carbs where out of wack but the bitch ran on the first try so we sent it.
Holy shit, is that ThunderHead289?!
Junkyard Digs and Thunderhead289 knows what's up. I'm going on Power Tour next time I need to rebuild an engine lol.
2 of my favorite youtube mechanics!
Can't wait to see what he finds. Hope it is easily remedied.
I watched yall build this in the motel and sneak it in there under suit cases
Sheesh I need to do that too! Thanks for the reminder!
Man, I don't know if the camera audio picks it up, but that rattle sounds nasty but not real harmful.
Are those the cam lobes and flat tappets making that noise?
@@MrDrBlahh no, its the crank counterweight barely tapping the windage tray.
@@mdavidson101 Ah okay. Appreciate the response! Sure didnt sound too good.
@@MrDrBlahh I reply to most comments under mine, especially if I can help! Plus it increases social interaction for the channel, helping them get more views.
Poor Rich, he looked really stressed during this process. I've run into the same problem myself with the heads on ARP con rod bolts being just a little bit taller than the stock ones, and hitting the sump pan as a result.
Yes and no , the main reason for the increased break in RPM is oil supply . The increased engine speed means increased oil pump speed which means the lobes are flushed nicely while all that carnage is going on.
Heck ya man!! Thrash it man !
Great video deboss
I had 2 flat tappet camshafts go flat on my Nova during break in , the 3rd cam I just went retro-roller on my sbc. I have a Holley on my sbc and when my cam went flat it backfired through the carb.
EDIT: I just saw the previous vid, so it looks like your cam survived :)
That’s gotta be nerve racking.
epic crunch time zip tie fix
Man I love ur vids
I have never seen, heard of, or done this. What are your thoughts Luke ( Thunderhead 289 ) ?
How do you balance the need to break in a cam with the need to seat the rings
Can you go to high load work after cam breakin and theey still seat fine or is 20 mins enough for the cyl walls to glaze over and ruin your chances of good compression
Did you ever see John force break in a cam or seat the rings. Ha ha it does not happen. If you have the correct oil pressure the lifters will spin. If they do not you did something wrong.
@@giles-df9yu correct .
Rod bolts hate wintry is what i thanking pull pan and see if im right sir
That sound might be that alternator that's bouncing around and not charging. RPM of that rattle is about the same. 14:09
Junkyard digs is there lol
The 2300rpm is to make sure the cam gets lots of oil that is slung from the rods.
Break in procedure, Rotella 5w30, zinc additive and drive it around the neighborhood like a teen age boy for 20 minutes, change oil to Rotella 15w40 diesel oil (still contains zinc) and enjoy.
Break them in like you use them.
Roller cam !! No break in lol or go way the other way n solid lifter it if they still even have those anymore ????
Flex plate to converter bolts? And a valve readjustment
Done this before use the heater to help cool tin Indians run hot
When I stuffed my 455 in a Delta 88 the dip stick decided to slap the crank.
So what was the diagnosis ?
I hear a rattling noise....maybe sheet metal in contact with rotating assembly??? Guess I will wait and see.
I could feel the heart break.
Kevin was right! 👍🏻
I melted a oil line off trying to break in a cam. Let’s just say the fire was fun.
Great video awesome guys 👍🏻
Dril a 1/8 hole in the thermostat to always avoid air pockets .
You can buy them with the hole already drilled. I have one in 2 of my cars.
A fella can almost hear them lifters not grinding away on the cam. You just need to test on it for about 20 min. Burnouts are key for break in.
Omg.. that break in. Lol
Soo.. worry about timing and fuel till after cam is broke in?
if it's too far off you can melt things/catch fire during break in or overheat quickly, they should have set it with "static" method beforehand, crank at TDC/advance you want, wires off plugs, timing light and crank dist against normal rotation until it blinks and bam your close ;)
Looking at the hands over face through the windshield at the start of the episode makes me nervous to watch this episode
And yeah it was tense
nothing wrong with flat tappet, just be sure to use good oil with lots of ZDDP in it or it wont last long
Are cam break ins a thing for diesels too?
Is this a hydraulic cam?
15:37 shows fire or spark at the exhaust manifold on passenger side. Anyone else catch that?
either an exhaust leak and you are seeing "fire" or that's a view down through into the back side of "flexplate" sure they didn't have the inspection pan on since trans was loose because of no clearance
**EDIT seen it at different parts of timeline, it's for sure the back side of flexplate and if there's lightening holes the converter also, it's just dancing around due to rpm and camera frame rates.
Take it to the Danger zone!!
3:18 Are there any other upsides/downsides to rollers vs flat tappet? I'm not building an engine or anything, just curious
i'm no expert, but I was always told a roller is for more aggressive cam profiles. also, the theory of less friction = more power
The older guys around here swear by flat tappets, simply because there are less moving parts.( and these dudes love the chop). Now these old guys are probably talking about old motors, so i'm probably no help in finding you an answer sorry :)
Roller cams have less friction= less wear and rolling resistance. The only real downside to roller cams is the cost of retrofitting into an engine that didnt come with one from the factory.
Fords started with them in the early 80's and they ran forever, now LS engines are doing the same thing. Gm wouldn't install them in all their engines if flat tapped was a better choice...just my opinion.
Thanks guys. Sounds like rollers are generally preferred but the retrofit can be expensive on older heads. And of course the old timers like what they like. Thanks for responding. I'm about to delete the oil cooler on my S10(4.3l v6 2wd), the lines are always leaking and it never overheats. I'm better off deleting that and adding a cooler to the 4l60e trans it's mated to.
tower rollers have been in sbcs before the ls.
7-8 man deep to run in one engine. now that's overkill 😂😂😂😂👌👌👌
Why not just do this at night on the open road ?
Like 289 said, rods would be hanging and the center part (mains) would be well all one solid how to weld steel and cast steel and make it hold/LOL. He held his ground and good for him. I like his channel also. Sadly, I think your Pony is addicted to engine swaps/pulls. Try to get some miles on it like go door to door selling tape measures/ouch.... that was low but hang Rich, your smarter than ten other claim to be's with sponsors and a unlimited "patreon" account plus dads silver spoon that has never been found!!!! I love yer stuff man. I pray you make it big cause you don't whine and wheres the cheese... Canadians are tough and I am from/still are alaska
This is stressful currently 10 minutes in
What are the cam spec's
first time i ever saw you nervous.
What kind of oil?
19:02 "Plethora"
Why is nothing ever said about new cars and cam break in. I had never heard of it until the last say 20 years. Back in the '60s I had an "code" 401 hp Ford and a couple 350 Camaros all with 4 speed trans and solid lifter cams and nothing was ever done about cam break in. I think we would have put it in the same park as muffler fuel.
Probably because new cars do not use high pressure valve springs and hi lift cams. And what modern car uses flat tappets? I do know what you are saying though. Even years ago I doubt they did this to new engines at the factory. Back in 85 I did use this type of break in on my mild build 289. And I used regular 10w40 oil. Nothing special.
I would do it different if I had to do it again. No break in like this and I would use a good quality synthetic oil. The engine would get broke in on the road running it hard right away.. Just my opinion but I think this type of break in is BS and not necessary.
most everything went "factory" roller lifter by early to mid 90's, the ones that didn't are overhead cam setups with followers/rockers and other methods.
Agree i think its some myth
I dont know why but i always feel like the wipe lobe thing is a myth...or harder to do than it sounds. I know i dont have experience with it though. Just seems odd that is xan be so touchy but then after break in by fine for 300,000 miles. How did engine builders ever figure out the break in thing? Isnt it more that the metal gets hardened by burnishing?
I mean back in the day did auto manufacturers break in the engines on the assembly line or something?
What wipes out a cam lobe is a poor cam or generally excessive spring pressures . This cam break in stuff is a total myth .
@@deanwitt7903 Why would millions of hot-rodders do it if it's a myth then? And don't give me the whole 50's and 60's cars argument, I've already seen that from you. Just curious what you think about it.
Wracking