Arrma Big Rock V3 Gear Issues
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- RC GUY GARAGE P.O. Box 2087 Sagamore Beach Ma. 02562
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Maybe the rear went bad because 100% of the power was going to it when you ran it in 2 wheel drive for a while? Just a thought.
YES!!! You are the ONLY one to mention that so far!!! I did a BUNCH of launches on that thing on AND off camera testing gearing and tuning
I didn’t think of that. Ya and the 500,000 miles on it. Lol
No, it's the heavier impact the rear takes. Everyone has problems with the rear diff, no one has problems with the front diff.
@Riff Raff's RC Agreed, but I really don't think I land on throttle, so careful driving may not be enough to save the rear diff.
@Riff Raff's RC Guy will keep her going! Maybe run front wheel drive now!
For keeping dirt out of the motor housing I use a thick grease around the opening. I'll even put some in the grooves where the housing mounts to the chassis so it comes on and off smooth. I have not got dirt in the housing yet it works great.
MY NEW FAVORITE RC GUY!!
Arrma has the metal upgrade(u need a diff cup for them) and also get the hot racing diff yokes and you will never have diff issues again
I spend more time repairing my big rock then using it. I got it for my dogs, they love chasing RC cars in the back yard so I’ve never jumped it or anything but have replaced probably 8-10 major parts on it…. I suggest going the next size up
👍
I switched to the cnc parts the second time my rear input gear blew out. The second time I realized the diff was shimmed on the wrong side from box stock. No issues since.💯 Love This Truck.
It's definitely a great little model
I have the Arrma upgrade diff on the way. You still use the shim? Which side do you have it on now? Ring side or opposite? (Stock is usually ring side).
I still use the shim on the ring side.
You can’t be too mad, it’s got rc guy garage 500,000 miles on it! It’s amazing it lasted that long?!
RIGHT!!!!!
On my arrma typhon I broke a few plastic diffs when driven very hard, BMX track and big jumps. Upgraded to the metal diffs and they have been holding up pretty well. I make shure to grease the diff very often and it feels like the car is rev’ing much faster, sounds more angry and more punch in the throttle. They seem to hold up very well, so my next upgrade might be a 4s setup.
I like the 3s rigs, they are so easy to work on and I know all the weak spots and have my own «fix» for many of those. And I always «paint» my car with WD40 wich make all the plastic very flexible so it hardly ever breaks.
Good to see another video guy! 👌🏻👍🏻💪🏻👊🏻😃
I ditched the metal CVD driveshafts. Main reason is you can't use the Typhon axles with them. I snapped/bent alot of stock axles. Second reason is I actually snapped one. Popping u-joints is a problem with the stock plastic, but I've NEVER snapped one. Third reason is the significant added weight which reduces performance and durability. So far loosening the slipper (1-1/4 from full tight) seems to be the solution to using stock plastic driveshafts without popping u-joints often.
Good to see you! That's normal wear. The out drive pinion teeth sharpen to a point and then snap off, destroying the diff gear. If you catch it before the teeth snap only the pinion needs to be changed. The hot racing setup in front and back don't effect the power at all on my outcast. The plastic yoke flexes miss aligning the gears . The hot racing aluminum yoke will slow the wear! Check ebay and Amazon through hot racing site!
😉early commenter 🤪🤣i do the same thing
@@rcguygarage I was waiting for that rear pinion to sharpen up and snap. Lasted longer than I thought with your toggle switch type driving.👍👍👍👍💯
This show is awesome..at least a new viewers knows what is all about .thanks for sharing..i will follow your step how and how to set up the rc cars build.thanks for the tips🤘🏻💪🏻
Thank u r c garage I really appreciate your videos I watch them all the time they're awesome and you're awesome fellow as well
You literally saved my day! haha. I was getting a bit "bored" of other vids on YT, cause they don't have the classic RC Guy Garage energy! lol.
This vid brought me joy just to click on it! haha :). Glad to have you back! :)))
You know what??? This ONE COMMENT just made me smile and to push FORWARD👍💯👊
@@rcguygarage glad to hear!🤛🤜🤛🤜
Good episode. Tho I would say in the Arrma 3s line....if your gonna keep it at 3s and not upgrade the power system (3s puts out plenty for bashing) stick with the stock diff components. Way cheaper, can get 3 complete stock diff parts for the price of the upgrade and the stock diffs hold up just fine. Getting proper slipper tension is the key.
Weigh out your options for sure
I missed your videos Guy!! For real man!!! Wtf 🤙🤙 hope all is well
Awesome video my friend
Nice maintenance 👍
Looks like a 21 tooth pinion??? What temps you getting??? I tried a 20 on mine but got motor way too hot dropped down to a 16 tooth and getting 54 mph ... plenty of power and probably save parts from breaking 🤔...all in all got one cause of your vids man and enjoying it !!! I say keep it stock drop few teeth on pinion it’ll blast for infinity!!! God bless
Still running DragRock gearing 😉🤪🤣 I thought it was cogging a little too much🤪🤣🤪🤣
Part of the torture test 😂
Go for the proline thumbscrews that's what I got it replaces the body clips and no more clips
Guy!! Where have you been? & now you have 4 screens for us to look at, main, you face, tablet, and the phone infinity screen, you're making me multi-task😂. I've had exactly the same issue with my big rock and blew the rear diff 😢.great vid👍
I got parts if you need them lol , I absolutely love this truck
@rcguy garage it’s only 4 bolts to pull the entire differential out,your doing a bunch of extra work my friend.hope this will help you in the future
Right except for video purposes I need to remove top housing to show damage and clean out the gear chips
I stayed until the end and my reward was a montage of a little red tractor.nice.✌
That little tractor is AWESOME
@@rcguygarage an Rc version would be cool ✌
The difference my hobbywing setup made in my granite is unbelievable. The blx esc does suck ....has the delay
Yes it does delay
Like from now on hobbywing
Which combo did you go with Trey thank you 😎
@@gonzodetroitify i used the blx 185 with a turnigy 4074
Xr8 sct esc and 3660 motor combo
I love my big rock can’t wait to see you swap the ESC out.
I order parts like I order fuses. Order one and it's gonna blow. Order two and it'll never blow. If the parts aren't really expensive, I order two. I like parts in stock to repair the car while more parts are coming in. Good video. Thanks.
Yeah homie boy. I'm putting a Castle 1415 2400kv in mine with the max esc.
I think you got enough packs run through to say just wear and tear .
If you wind up going with the Arrma steel input and ring gear, you might consider picking up some 12x15.5x0.2mm shims. I needed all four on the input side to tweak the mesh to keep it smooth.
Rode hard and put up wet. Still more smiles for miles than trashbag
💯 so far you speak💯
@@rcguygarage I sealed up my spur and pinion housing with rtv. I also made a makeshift gasket from gorilla two side tape that I left the paper on one side of to let the assembly still slide in and out. It keeps most of the garbage out
Just came across your video. I think i will be watching more of you. As it seems from this video. You show us what you use and get. Thank you
I try. 👍
ooooooooowwww,Soldering station. ✌
You beat me to it guy I was going to do that tear down tonight I miss your videos keep up bringing some content how's that kaiju doing by the way did you get your parts in
Drill a hole in the chassis bottom were the spur sits so dirt wont be stuck there. Also the rear diff strips because the input gear bearings have slop
You get what you pay for kinda eventually👍
Sound like CNN"catastrophic rear end explosion" lol. When It was just a couple gears stripped...🤣😂
This Happened to me in the first 20 packs. Tossed arrma metal in and so far so good.
They need to stop putting plastic ring and pinion gears in the diff.
Double cam? I'm seeing 4guys now that's too much guy 😜 and can you please put your soldering station up for sale I need one and have made a copy but I don't feel comfortable using it without at least pay some copyright 😁
🤪🤣🤪🤣👍💯
I just stripped my 3rd rear differential/input gear. The Hot Racing yoke may help, this 3rd one lasted longer. But the 3rd input gear/diff got stripped shortly after adding the M2C motor plate/chassis brace. It may just be coincidence but I think the added weight/stiffness may have something to do with it. I still need the motor mount plate, but I'm going to try it without that really heavy chassis brace this time. If the diff still goes I'll try the backordered CNC diff/input gear. As others have said, the front diff doesn't suffer like the rear does. So far, I'm still on the factory front.
What size motor you using , your case may be worn I
@@paulclancy2404 Stock motor. What case do you mean?
On those rc the chassis and towers is the housing, unless you overpowered ,you shouldn't be stripping the input gear , ive been through only one ,with 6s ive been through a dozen , if you are powered with big can motor maybe try a t2t brace that and changing the case stopped mine from stripping, on 6s , the 3s I stripped one but after 100 packs run through and I thicker diff fluid , that can put more stress on it also , make sure those bearings are near new conditions also
@@paulclancy2404 My bearings have never been the problem. I'm not stripping from overpowering. I'm on 3s, 15t, the slipper is nice and loose, I don't wheelie and I don't land on throttle. The damage always happens after landing a big jump. Impact to the back end flexes the rear diff and input gear, they get thrown out of alignment and strip each other. That's why the Hot Racing yoke helps, it reduces the flex. The chassis is fairly new and my 3rd, but a warped shock tower could be a contributing factor I didn't consider.
@@tyrellcorp2118 yes and all you young guys killing jumps , should immediately install a t2t brace , its not as cut and dry with the arrma 3s I suppose but still would help and looks good too. When arrma copied bashers with theres it helped but no where near as effective bc not connected to the towers ., and guys just started pushing m2racing chassis.aluminum diff cases. I get aluminum tubing from home depot , threaded rod run through the tubing with nuts on outside each tower , you can even use wing nuts and adjust the rigidity, with plastic rcs ofcourse just want tension
People in the Arrma fourms drill a couple of holes in the chassis so dirt can fall out.
Yes I've been thinking that exact thing
You didn't have to do all that to get the diff out...just undo the 4 screws underneath and the top lifts up with arms and shocks etc, u can the lift the diff out
You understand this is an old video and shows visually better on camera worth stuff removed???
I just had the motor plate bend on me? How? I fixed it but never heard of that happening?! Anyone see that happen?
Forward nose landings🤪🤣
@@rcguygarage well I can’t lie and say that doesn’t happen often lol!
Do the Velcro mod on the bottom of that unit. Use the non abrasive part of the Velcro and put a piece around where the gear is it keeps a ton of crap out of it
Great Video!!!
My losi got crunchy today, it was the bearing in rear diff ,just disintegrated 😔,got more on order.
Is the big rock dishwasher safe 🤔🤣😬
COMPLETELY😱😉
Good Video! Thankyou Sir
In-te -gy 🤣🤣
In-ter-geeee
i think i’m going to get the hot racing gears!!!
Spur gear looks good 😳🤔
🤪🤣🤪🤣 to YOUR eyes 👀 I don't doubt that😱😱😱
@@rcguygarage you had to bring up bad vision 😳😳😂😂
@@earlmoorhead5555 👀😱🤣🤪👀
What axles are you running? The inner section look like the axles off of the Kraton 4S. But I have a V3 Big Rock and it didn't come with those axles. I also looked at the parts diagram for the V3 BR. And that also shows the axles mine came with.
those plactic upgrade diff cases I ve found are not tight to hold internal gears cant even move.
Where are the supports from that you've added to the body that link the cab to the cargo bed? They look cool
Traxxas Maxx
I hate doing arrma 3s line of rear differential 😳
Not CHEAP for a CHEAP MODEL
Or you can go the hot racing diff yokes and keep the diff plastic. I did that in my 4s but i wont recommand that
If you want a bulletproof solution.
Watch The duperbash video with his senton, he has a fix for all tha debrie in The gearbox, he drills af Hole in The chassis so all The sand and Stone Can get out.
Yes been thinking about drilling 2 holes for sure👍
I’m about to replace my rear diff with metal one. I don’t have any grease. I notice yours in greased on outside. Is that necessary? What grease do I use
Always use what the manufacturer recommended
Rc guy garage where you been? My truck just did the same thing yesterday $120 in parts
Ouch!!! Yep that's the tough part about this cool little model it'll BITE YOU in parts due to longevity issues
@@rcguygarage if you can’t find parts Amazon had them in stock
I noticed you had some sort of purple grease in your diff housing. When I had to replace mine I put white lithium grease in there. Is that acceptable?
Could be but that was only a test with the purple I've reverted back to the Orange
I've been having problems with my big rock.. when I accelerate it makes that crunchy sound and I thought it was my slipper clutch but I checked and everything was fine.. checked the diffs and everything was ok too. Then I checked the screws maybe I made a mistake and screwed all the way in the diffs but nada. Applied grease and all that but still the same. Still makes that harsh crunchy noise when accelerating and low speed. 😔😫
Yea bigrock video I have crunchy gears from the exact same thing
You we're pretty hard on that diff drag pulls on pavement and such I'm just saying bro.
The front will never blow up. In 2 years just never
Even if it does just put the plastic one back in.
What did you go with? I’m wanting to fix mine🤪
I just put the metal gears in my big rocks and now the gear mesh is to tight, why??
Too many unknown variables and not enough info
They sent me a Blx120 when my stock one went to crap.
You got lucky
have found the arrma upgrade diff cases hold the internal gears to snug, cant even move them? you have this problem
Excuse me if you already did a video on it but I’m trying to find a rear drive shaft solution I don’t wanna buy the CVD’s if there junk ?😇
I hate to haft to leave my slipper clutch so lose lol
I'm having the noise after I install the center drives haft do you think it could be my mesh or the slipper?
Don't you dare put the vortex system in the big rock. I'm not buying another Domn truck. Just put the upgrades in the big rock so I know what I can do. Lmao. All kidding aside. I only have the big rock and crawlers. When it comes time I'll check out other channels for the esc upgrades if I have to.
🤣👍
i have a set of hot raceing diff case if u wont
Hello there! Can anybody please tell me which pinion (teeth-number) comes stock?
Tell me about it 😂👊😀
Speaking about the hyper mt is it dead?
Not really🤪
That diff has metal gears right?
I got my big rock used with upgrades guy said but there's a place called king Cobra of Pensacola and my big rock has been the 4 time each time I tell them I won't a upgrade they say ok I get it back and. With in 5 minutes of me driving it I don't ramp and dog it I can hit a bump and it with start slipping I spent 2,000 on rc cars because and not one works got 4
What's the purple grease?
Pet your Vector.
Idk why you make it sound such a drag you have to tear your RC apart lol maintenance and diff maint and maint period is a must if your doing hobby grade Rc lol not maintaining is why things fail
Cause when it's 60+ RC'S it gets a little rough🤣😂 now THAT'S the drag PERIOD
Scwu driva?
YES🤣😂
jenny rc man
18:32 Catastrophic rear end explosion.....sounds like Sleepy Joe Biden's diaper.