I really appreciate your long term view on these vehicles. If I had seen this video earlier, I would have been better prepared for my Granite BLX's issues. Most folks only look at the short-term because they're trying to sell you the truck with an affiliate link. Mad props to you for taking the effort to do a proper long view. 👍🏽👍🏽
I’m here because two wheels fell off my Big Rock within just a few minutes of the FIRST pack. First one was a loose wheel nut, followed by that loose axle stub. Great video!
@@nivin3 yes, the solution is to just make sure the axle stubs are tightened and have spare wheel nuts. I’m 10 packs into hard bashing and haven’t had any issues since.
@@nivin3 My video shows what to tighten and how to do it. The wheel coming off isn't a known issue once it's tightened up. Just that out of the factory, one wheel is always loose.
Dude! Thanx so much for the shoutout for my videos!!! I truly appreciate that. Wow, you've covered every facet of this RC thoroughly. Like yourself, I haven't experienced all these issues, a real eye-opener for the unknown. I am really interested in that 3D piece covering your steering assembly, have yet to see that, great idea.This video should be saved in all Arrma RC owner's playlists, it will be in mine. Well done brother.
I really appreciate you taking the time to do what the professional reviewers will not. They like to talk about how great something is so their sponsors will keep sending them free shit while guys like me actually spend money on and then have to live with the stuff. In regards to the drive axels, I have a hypothesis on those. The big rock doesn't have a center diff so power is transferred equally to the front and rear. However when hooking up on a solid surface the rear end squats to plant and the front end lifts. This places the majority of the launch torque on the rear wheels and axels. I put about 3 packs through my big rock before I snapped a rear axel at the yoke. 1 pack later, the other snapped. The torque will actually begin to oval the holes in the yokes (You can see it happening on yours too) and eventually the pins will be allowed to travel so far toward the outside of the yoke that it will open up and release the pins. Also, my rear wheels are now warped. Yes, warped. Again, this only happened to the rears. I drive on pavement a lot due to lack of usable soft terrain so i'm in an unfortunate position. It really hooks up on pavement. However, under the body, it says 'Don't just bash, blast'. So I think Arrma sold us short on the issue. They design these things to take abuse but won't even survive under their own power. You can try and upgrade to the HD drive axels but they won't be in stock until the end of summer. That's a huge fail IMHO and I shouldn't have to upgrade these parts just for the vehicle to survive itself basically. There is too much torque transferred to the rear end for their current design parameters. So now what? I'm suppose to turn a $320 vehicle into a $400 vehicle so it's 'right' out of the box? 4 packs man. There's no excuse for that. I could make warranty claims every time I drive it, but is that even remotely excusable? The Arrma fan bois will tell you to adjust your slipper. It's actually too lose from the factory! I been at this 30 years and I know how to adjust my slipper. I also know what it's there for and it's not this. Maybe it's OK for the race kids to burn through slippers daily for the sake of a perfect launch and winning. But it's really just the servo saver of drive trains. I shouldn't have to burn through slippers to save my rear end from the motor. That's just ridiculous. You got yourself a sub man. Keep on keeping it real.
Yup, a lot of "reviews" are just test runs. It doesn't discuss longevity or ownership at all. Seems like every new product is better than the last which we know is totally not true! I know Emax won't be sending me free products anytime soon. Haha, I've bashed them hard on the TRUTH. Supplying an FPV quad with an ESC that can't handle the amp draw of the motor they include is complete nonsense. Can't support that. I see what you mean about the rear squat at launch of the Arrma Big Rock. Power I guess doesn't require a center diff, but we do have the slipper clutch. Seems like the slipper needs to be set perfectly and in align with the punch level to get good results. Mine won't wheelie anymore. Don't know what the issue is, but it's either a combination of slipper/punch or I broke a bearing somewhere is my guess. I don't have 30 years under my belt like you do so I'm open to any suggestions you have. By now, I've run through maybe 100 battery packs though between the Big Rock and Typhon. I drive these almost daily, a few packs and I'm a bit of a research nut. Arrma does take a big risk by openly saying their cars are bashers. In that sense, more power to them and I do respect that vs other companies who may be too shy to say so fearing ridicule by their potential fan base. I've had a bunch of budget cars and do appreciate the durability in build quality of the Arrma cars, but for sure there is more that can be improved on for future versions. From the interviews I've watched with the owner of Arrma, I'm confident that they do look into feedback to identify what are legitimate issues. Hopefully they'll address those ASAP. Warranty coverage by Horizon Hobby is great though, so it's not like they're trying to milk us in repairs. I appreciate your appreciation. Haha. Good luck with your rides. Stay safe out there.
@@Funcentric ' Mine won't wheelie anymore. Don't know what the issue is, but it's either a combination of slipper/punch or I broke a bearing somewhere is my guess. ' ^^^ You likely made enough changes to the slipper and punch that you're not getting enough torque to the rear wheels to do this. Running a loose slipper will result in exponentially reduced slipper life. The looser it is, the faster it wears. it exists as a means to control backlash torque to the drivetrain. Not save it from itself. But this method of reducing torque to the rear wheels is just robbing Peter to pay Paul. The Arrma forum users love to suggest it. In reality Arrma needs to address the glaring weakness in the design for version 4. I would set it back to factory spec and drop the punch down to 1 and see if you're happy there. Regulating torque electronically doesn't cost you mechanical wear.
Do those look like on road tires? Your complaing about failure due to you buying the wrong car for your driving surface. I don't have a big rock and own multiple of many brands. You chose the wrong tool for the job.
As a rule of thumb, new RC`ers imo should think: the more performance, the higher the likelihood of things breaking. It`s not always true, especially in higher up price ranges, but performance comes at a cost, either just mechanically, or financially, some times both 😋 Good thing guys like you are out there to inform people and list what they should look out for and be ready for, lots of great info in this video (:
@@afrog2666 Thanks for the kind words. You said it better than me. You’ré absolutely right. I think people get so caught up in the fancy stuff and see RUclips videos of all the jumping that they don’t know the behind the scenes stuff of repairs late at night. Haiboxing cars I still think are great out of the box for beginners and they’re coming out with a much higher performing car. Will be curious about the longevity of a larger scale more powerful platform. It could make or break the brand.
@Funcentric Nice video! I love my big rock. One thing for new buyers is use the warranty! It comes with a 2 year warranty which is great. I had the same centre drive shaft issue except the rock also scored the shaft coming out of the slipper clutch assembly. Arrma sent me a new drive shaft and complete slipper clutch assembly. My steering servo also went, arrma shipped me out a new one of those. I also had issues with the rod ends and pivot balls, they sent me out a set of each as well. I am in Canada and had no issues with them shipping the parts from the states. They sure stand behind their products.
How are you contacting them? I used to have pretty good luck with them early on a year ago, but as of the past couple of months, they don't seem to answer their calls anymore. The voicemail message just says to contact the via the website. Email requests for claims seem to never get approved in my experience. Good to hear that it's working for you though. As for the servo, it really is junk. For all the work it takes to take stuff apart and replace, I'd highly recommend that you get at least a cheapo $15-17 one as opposed to replacing it with another stock one. Maybe you can use the stock one as a backup while you order and install a better one. I have the red one from Amazon.
@@Funcentric I should have mentioned in my original post that my warranty claims were March and May of 2021. It's too bad that they are no longer providing the service they were. As for the replacement servo, they sent me the SPMS652 servo. The original one was the SPMS651. The replacement one I got is 18kg. Hey do you have a link to the 3d printed front cover? I bought a mesh cover that I have not installed yet. I am trying to keep sand and rocks out of the chassis and from under the motor and slipper clutch.
@@attk1984I had never made a warranty claim with any company before Arrma... My Felony had a servo failure, just like my Granite servo, but with the Granite I bought a new one. I was a little strapped for cash when my Felony servo died and someone on the Arrma forums suggested I contact Warranty claims thru email. They shipped me out a new servo next day airmail. It only took 2 emails to get it shipped out. I'm well happy with Horizon Hobby's warranty support. Also a shout-out to AMain Hobbies warranty service. One of my new GRP tires started coming unglued. Two emails later they're sending me a new one (which I will add plenty of extra glue to.
Great long terms review and a good explanation of the rear diff problems. An issue a lot of us have experienced is the poor machining of the diff case, causing the crown and/or input gears to catch. Light loosening fixes this.
@@Funcentric hey there. I’m literally talking about backing off 1/2 turn or a turn. I do still adopt this approach on my vorteks. On the Big Rock, I’ve actually upgraded to a HR diff case which is beautifully machined
@@patmarcus172 Nice! Thanks for the tip! I'll give that a try next time I have it open. Much appreciated! And yes, I always hear great things about the Hot Racing diff case being a great upgrade. Just don't want to pour so much money into the thing. Yesterday, I installed the motor mount bracket by Hot Racing. Speaks to a different problem from the one we're discussing, but the fitment of the Hot Racing product is spot on. Gives me confidence to buy more stuff from them.....like a diff case.
Yeah, I did the same thing. Was looking for something like this and it didn't exist. So made my own for y'all. The other videos were either really jiggly with footage giving me a headache, completely unplanned with no organization, had poor lighting in some guy's garage or poor quality sound where it's tough to really hear what's going on. My video doesn't have a ton of detail, but the idea is for viewers to know what to search for. Sometimes we don't know what we don't know. Don't know what to look for. This video is meant to be more like a stepping stone.
I drove the Big Rock for first time yesterday just in my yard and driveway and a wheel went rolling off across the street lol, thanks for showing how to fix it
Glad I could help you out. Yeah, those other videos are often just promotions disguised as reviews. So few actual reviews out there. I don’t do reviews until I’ve run through at least 50 batteries. If I just run a single pack, I won’t have anything to say other than spewing out specs which people can just read on the manufacturer’s website.
Great video! I'm just getting into RC cars and found the big rock on eBay for a good price and waiting for it to come in now. This video is by far the most informative and well explained video and I really appreciate it.
Awesome! Glad it did. Yeah, I've gone through a lot too and have had a fair bit of experience running through well over 100 battery packs by now and figured it's probably easier for people to see everything thorough in a single video with decent sound and lighting.
Good video bud. I'll give you my little secret tip on the motor mount getting bent when you move up to a brushless . Well I used the blx mega spur and pinion case . All plastic and guess what , I havent bent any motor mount since !!! Good is God and God is great!
Well , I bought one when they first came out and I am thinking that I only have put 4 battery packs through it' then I got really sick but here it is 2024 and I pulled it out thinking the battery pack wouldn't be any good but to my surprise it works great !! I did store it in storage mode though . Planning to get out soon !! And thanks for the motor tip ! I will be putting a rubber shim under to help prevent those problems .
I've found a dust cover is great for dealing with crap getting in there I also installed an outcast wing with a typhon mount that helps with a bit more protection at the back and it looks great fits straight on
Yeah, I'm actually working on that. Going through a few things though. Spoiler alert is that I broke another diff on the Big Rock, the first one on the Typhon, switched to metal and it creates other problems which is expected. Forces don't disappear with stronger parts. They just move onto the next weakest link. So it's a matter of what part do you want to access, pay for and install. Love for the 1/16 scale is growing b/c of this, but the power and excitement of the 1/10 scale can't be denied.
@@runnerbaba I've been working on some 2S builds, so haven't had time to film anything for 100 packs. I have gone through at least 100 packs already though through my 3S cars so I'll put something together. Thanks for keeping me on track. haha.
Let's trade houses. I actually would love to be in Palo Alto. Fewer people there. Less traffic. I'm guessing people are nicer there too. But food is just as expensive unfortunately.
GREAT VID Funcentric! I've watched this Vid like 5 times already, NO JOKE, On my first pack, stock punch setting on 70% I experienced 3 of the issues you mentioned in this Vid!! This is the first Arrma in my fleet and have high hopes for getting some of their 6s and 8s cars but if this one keeps up like this, I'll stick to my other brands!! I'll admit it did rip for the first 8 mins! I'm a little bitter but I have patience! Let's go Big Rock!
Cool, glad you’re finding it useful. I’m currently testing out a hot racing motor mount. Only a couple packs in so no strong feelings get but I’ll likely do a video or at least a mentioning of it. Nice that it’s half the price of the m2C racing product which I refuse to buy as it’s wayyyyy overpriced.
Thank you for the axel issue, i always thought i had a wheel wobble from a axel it self. As for the shocks buy the proline shocks. Solves all the shock issues...you can litterly feel the landing its so soft.
Awesome! Glad I could help. Yeah, there's videos here and there about various things, but I wanted to put something together that consolidates everything into a single source. Wish I had this video before I got mine! Haha. Enjoy your Arrma. It's a love/hate thing.
Thank you so much. I wish I had found this when I first got my BR. Very informative. Something of note. The slipper clutch adjustment and tightening. I know it's a year later but man it took me three days to figure that out on my own.
Slipper clutch was such a pain for me too. I don't know if BR has the same issue, but on my Granite, the little black plastic triangle-ish part that goes in the rear-facing end of the slipper (the part where the washer is) that is supposed to help prevent the washer from backing out of the screw, my Granite didn't come with that piece, and after I got that piece in the Arrma "slipper maintenance kit" the piece doesn't even fit. Well, it fits in the back part of the spur assembly, but it doesn't leave enough room for the rear diff gear to slide in. Does your BR have that little black plastic bit, if you remember?
@Boogie_the_cat sorry for the late response. Didn’t see it until just now. I don’t recall about the black piece. There is an exploded diagram in the online manual and I don’t recall anything unusual.
Good info. Nicely done. I would add that it’s important to have the slipper clutch adjustment correct to help prevent stripping of the diff gears and the whole drivetrain. Next it’s usually the bearing that is on the shaft end of the motor that goes out and yes from dirt and also the dust from spur gear wear and slipper pad wear. The bearing on the shaft end is easy to remove and the one on the other end you can use a shaft and keep tapping bread into the center and it will push the bearing out. If you cut an opening through the chassis right below the spur gear it lets the debris fall out. Sounds crazy but it does work. And last thing on the shocks, remove the shock then if you unscrew the red cap on the top you can slide the spring right off. 👍
Thanks for the comments and adding to the tips. The only thing I'm questioning though is drilling an opening beneath the spur. I suspect that it would actually allow dirt to creep up in there moreso than to let dirt out. I know Arrma includes that "feature" in the 6S models, but I can't help but to think there's a reason it was not done even for the newer 3S cars. You could right. I've seen a lot of discussion about it but haven't done any tests myself personally. Thanks for bringing it up though. Good info for others to consider.
@@Funcentric I can tell you what I have experienced. My son in-law and I bought our senton at the same time. He runs his hard in the dirt and mud. (Him and his 3 young sons) his bearings on the slipper spur gear assembly and the spur gear went bad in less then 3 weeks. I told him what rich duperbash recommended was to open it up so he did. That was in may of 2020. Never had the problem again and his motor bearings are still the originals. I on on the other hand did not open it, I too thought this can’t work. I am a clean freak so I took mine apart a lot and cleaned it out. And I run mostly pavement and grass but there was always that fine dust in there. My motor bearing went bad on the pinion side. So then I opened it up and it stays much cleaner. I cut my opening so it’s only open on the side where the spur gear is coming down when going forward that way it won’t suck anything up only push it down. Try it you can always seal it back up. Thanks again. I enjoy your videos.
@@bapasrcadventures3619 hmmm, cool. Thanks for the detailed experience. Maybe it’s you that’ll be the one thing that’ll make me give it a try. You may have convinced me. Thanks again.
Thanks for providing the Traxxas roof rack part number in the description. The "wall of RCs" guys rarely make it that easy. It's rather annoying at times. Also super informative video! You saved me a lot of frustration.
Bro, this was a GREAT and helpful review. Like THIS is what we all want to know. SERIOUSLY. Just found a used one for $150. I know the feelings about used RC's but hell... I make it work lmao.
Yeah for $150, you can throw money at it and it'll still be a grip of savings. On the flip side though, I can see how someone would be so frustrated that they'd let it go for $150. It'll be fun while it works, but just expect all the other stuff you'll have to deal with. For less than $150 I'd highly recommend the Haiboxing 16889 PRO version with metal gearing, brushless motor and upgraded shocks if you're okay with a 1/16 scale car. I have the regular non-pro brushless one and it's practically indestructible. I messed it up by changing out the electronics and running it on 3S. Don't do that. So 2S Pro version would be a dream machine you can play with more than wrench on.
@@Funcentric Yeah I've been dwelling on the HBX pro... I see the rebranded one on Amazon. I was debating because I really do like the 1/10 scale and the stability and was worried about having to order over seas for HBX parts. That being said, most people seem to have zero problems with them from what I see. Been looking at , Slash, Rustler 4x4, Associated MT10 and the HBX. I just happened to see this listing and I'm trying to weigh the costs. Can't say I really want to toss $400 at an RC car right now but also don't want to be fixing a car every damn day. Mostly into off-road and really like the clearance on the trucks in general. After watching a weeks worth of vids I see why ppl say just be a new one lmao.
@@jjones7837 I wouldn't say that HBX would be a replacement. Just that reliability is a lot better. Reason to though is also b/c of the size. Smaller RC's just weigh less and so it doesn't really kill itself as much as heavier 1/10 scale cars potentially can. If you're fairly new, I'd say go for the 1/16 scale HBX 16889 Pro knowing it won't necessarily perform well on grass due to the physical scale itself. For me, reliability is priority but I admit, there's something insanely fun about a 1/10 scale running at 50mph (when it's working). The $400 Arrma is easily $500 plus the cost of batteries and charger if you don't have that already.
@@Funcentric For a new guy getting into the hobby, would you suggest the big rock or granite? I currently have an ECX torment ( its POS), which I'll be giving to my teenager. I am looking for an all-around fun truck for myself and an activity to do with my sons. But to be honest, I am more partial to the big rock primarily based on its looks...
@@cjboots1115 I have a Big Rock and Typhon, so I can't speak personally of the Granite. However, from what I understand, the Granite and Big Rock are essentially the same truck but the Big Rock is just a long wheel base vs the Granite that is shorter. Internals are the same. The Granite should be able to wheelie more easily while the Big Rock stays grounded. For reliability though, I'd recommend the HBX 16889 brushless version, a RTR for under $100 shipped. 1/16 scale though. Keep it stock. I modded mine from 2S to 3S and the internals just can't handle it. Big Rock I kept stock thinking it would put less strain on it, but there's a lot of inherent issues with the Arrma 3S BLX series. It's quite the money sucker as you can imagine from all the issues.
Great video, like most people I have seen most of these issues on the Arrma 3S platform... in my case a Typhon. It's a pretty short list considering the abuse these cars can put up with. Happy bashing :)
You got lucky.. I just bought the Big Rock and haven't even used a full battery yet and have had the rear drive shaft break and the rear shock piece pop out... and all I was doing was getting used to the vehicle never even hit a jump! Lol thanks for this video on ideas on how to fix these problems
Yeah the shock popping out of the perch is pretty much a given. Mine hasn’t had the issue with the rear driveshafts but I’ve heard a ton about other people with that issue. Unfortunate for what’s now a $370 car + tax that’s not really RTR. For a first timer, it’s probably more like $500-550 USD after buying a charger and a couple of batteries. Even more for Canadians and Australians.
@@Funcentric it's definitely not ready to run. I have a Traxxas Rustler and have beat the he'll out of it and the only issue I had was the motor coming loose and needing new tires lol and I paid $100 less for it and it's sturdier than the Big Rock
Sure! Tried to put it all together in one place that has decent lighting and audio. Wish I had this video for myself. Are you looking for a starter car or have you been in the rc scene for awhile?
@@Funcentric first basher type. Have a couple of 1/10 axial crawlers , and a Tamyia 1/14 truck and trailer. I like building Frome scratch over RTR, because I get to know the vehicle as I go... RTRs, are learn as you fly and because the big rock flys... I'm a little nervous about it.
@@DJvvAZZ I see. If you like building, then you may want to get a Mega when it goes on sale at Tower Hobbies under the Scratch and Dent section. Then build from there. That's what I did with my 2S car. Ended up costing more than a 3S BLX, but it's so much more reliable and still fun. It won't be flying on 2S though. Best for track racing. For me, reliability is important b/c I like driving more than wrenching on the thing. Before building though, I'm wondering if you want to begin with a starter truck. The HBX 16889A Pro for $90 from eBay is an excellent way to start 1/16 scale, so you're not going to be running it through grass due to the ground clearance. I'm just hesitant to recommend a 3S BLX as a first basher b/c it's a lot to deal with as you see from the video. The $330 car easily becomes $600. Remember you need batteries, a charger, and there's tax and all the repair parts.
Thanks mate for your useful and very important info, almost everything you covered I've had the same experience with my Arrma Granite (will order the Big rock soon) I wish I watched this video before I brought my RC car as it would have saved me a lot of time
Sure thing! It helps that I'm not trying to sell anything. No affiliate links. I can't take credit for all the solutions. Some of it is gathered from my research and talking to people. Glad it helped you out.
@@suavedhaval1 sure! I’ve seen too many videos with terrible lighting and even worse sound. Figured I’d put something together that hopefully isn’t such a struggle to watch. I have a part 2 that talks about the minimal stuff you’ll need to have the car running without breaking all the time.
@@Funcentric just got my Bog Rock this weekend and trying to figure it all out. Xt60 connector on the Gens Ace lipo seems to have melted to the converter I use to connect it to the truck 🤦🏼♂️too much amperage I think. I’m heading back to the hobby shop to get sorted soon
@@AderNyland oh no! Yeah the connector needs to be able to handle the amperage being drawn from the motor. I know it’s a little late, but this should provide some context, ruclips.net/video/_iFKiRDsw6U/видео.html
After keeping an eye on it every battery pack, I've been able to clear any debris that had previously been eating up my center driveshaft. I do know aftermarket aluminum ones are available too. I suspect it would cause more damage to the chassis though as the center drive shaft would no longer give.
I have a Typhon that I converted from a Granite Mega over the course of 2 years. I've finally got it dialed in but the plastic parts are starting to wear down. Things like the holes in the composite suspension links and the hubs. I'm replacing the plastic hubs with aluminum ones. My rear differential is the metal one from the 4s line. I also added the metal spur gear. My driveshafts are also getting worn down as I've had the pins pop out of the U joints. I find it helps to have spare parts on hand. Or just keep your older parts in case you need a part in a pinch. My Typhon can run on 4s but I feel that's too much power for these vehicles. I always tend to pop a driveshaft or rip a tire when I run 4s. Ironically I've never broken an a arm.
Yeah, I haven't broken an arm either but I drive mine pretty delicately to keep it's "reliability". Still seems to be issue every few batteries. Careful with all the metal parts. It hides all the other alignment issues the car may have. It'll allow you to keep running it w/o knowing something needs attention and then when it does, it can be a big one.
The real deal. Thanks boss for a great video and just tons of great info. Nothing is indestructible but your tips will certainly help to alleviate some of the issues. Thank you for your insight. I'm currently deciding on my first 3s arrma.
Yeah sure! No problem. I wish I had this video when I got my Arrma. Would've helped prepare me at least mentally. Most things were unfortunately a surprise to me which wasn't exactly the good kind. I wish I got a Granite over the Big Rock. More challenging to drive and can more easily wheelie. Body looks better to me too.
The best way to deal with the drive shafts unscrewing themselves is to put some blue loctite on both ends. You need to be careful that you don't get it onto the plastic or it will make the plastic fail. Taking the truck apart to get to the wheel axle is fairly easy and thats the part that needs loctite, just put a little on the threaded section that accepts the screw, do the same on the diff side and put it back to together. Do that on all four corners and you're golden.
I’ve been checking mine on occasion. None have been an issue. In fact I first tore them off the vehicle and they were cranked so tight I didn’t bother loosening them for the loctite. Probably around 30 packs in.
Glad it helped. I had to put something together with as much info as I could and hoping the decent lighting and audio helps. I hate those videos of guys slurring in their dark basement or on their beds.
Great tips thanks much. I just got the Typhon 3s and really want to take care of it so it will last. Good tip on the motor mount. Like you I just don't have the big bucks to dump into my car. I'm thinking some silicone under the motor or maybe fabricate a brace some how.
Yeah, I just use some thick sticky tape. Probably not the best solution and honestly not even sure it works. I kinda baby the car so I can still drive it and not have to worry about a bent motor mount. Probably will still bend though eventually. We'll see.
I have a video about the OEM Mega lineup being very underwhelming and how a properly designed custom 2S car can be loads of fun but with excellent reliability. I’ve built two using Arrma cars and there great, particularly drifting in loose dirt. A lot more playing and less repairing. I found myself at the bench with my 3S cars for way too long. Took many hours to finally dial it down to be somewhat reliable. The follow up video to this details it all out.
Aye man just wanted to thank you for the video I actually just bought the big rock v3 a week ago coming from doing budget builds for like a year so this was a perfect video and is much appreciated. Not too sure if you meant goldengate park in SF but if so ayyyeee it’s lit I’m from the city lol ✊🏽🤟🏽
Oh cool, yes Golden Gate Park in San Francisco. You can hit me up on Instagram and DM me there if you want to meet up for a drive together some time. Yeah, my channel has a lot of budget cars. Mostly not custom though. Just wanted to see what the hype was about for various products and figured I'd share what I ultimately figured out. As long as you're okay with the expected issues with the BLX 3S series, I think you'll be okay.
Is it only the right hand rear wheel that needs tightened or should I run through all of them? Awesome collection of tips by the way, really useful to help keep my son's car rolling.
Generally, it’s only that one but it’s worth tightening all of them. It can be pretty bad if any fall off and roll into a crowd of bicycles or cars. I have another video about what to do to keep this thing from breaking. Just uploaded it somewhat recently.
Added a new Sub. Just stepping into this hobby and found this to be a well thought out presentation and honest description of this platform. Mine is on its way, I just ordered the roof rack. Thanks lad.👍
@@Funcentric I already had my mind made up, but your review gave me some important tips to owning this rig. Looking forward to getting some time with it.
I just bought a Granite 3/2024, I emailed Arrma and asked them if they fixed all these loctite issues in the axels and sliperclutch screw backing out and they replied it has been rectified but it doesn't hurt to double check myself lol
@Funcentric the screws in the axels screws felt like they had loctite so I didn't put any in it...the slipper clutch I adjusted and put 2 drops of loctite in the rear hole. I haven't driven my truck yet because I'm waiting for ny HTRC T240 charger to come from Bangood in about another week. I still may loctite the axels before I take it out for safe measure tho.
The problem with the rear drive shaft is very serious because I broke a lot of plastic stock ones, GMP as well and the last shaft that almost broke the last time were the Arrma upgrade ones. That’s why I converted the Big Rock to a Granite 3s that actually is still running with the stock ones.
Yeah, this car isn't as reliable as I was hoping. I personally have never had driveshafts fail on me fortunately, but I've heard others like yourself have.
Thanks for the video, I already experienced the wheel falling off twice...and I shredded a spur gear and a center drive shaft so now im at the point where I need to wedge something under the moto I guess 🤣 thanks for the video mate
@@Funcentric ill probably look into getting one of those ''bag'' thingy that you put over the whole chassis under the body have you seen those? to prevent rocks from getting in and stuff...
I had an drive shaft come out of my Granite. I had done some upgrades and made it more powerful. What had happened was it had too much torque going to the wheels, I made the slipper clutch too tight. So the plastic drive shafts twisted a bit there at the U joint connection making it easier to slip out.
Sure thing! Yeah, I wish I had this video before too! Figured it'd be helpful to put it all in once place with some decent sound quality and lighting. Glad it helped out.
Hey mate i wonder if you know now you missed something I did aswell so had to remove shafts again you got screws holding shaft to diff I remove those aswell an put lock tight on all 4 screws lock tight best .
And one of the solutions I found another video is old is that I couldn't keep a rear driver side tire on with the 14 mm setup. The way I found to fix my solution is I had to upgrade to the 17 mm hex heads and yes it is expensive I went through Ryder's hobby shop in Flint Michigan they got me all the upgraded stuff and now I can keep wheels on my arm a big rock
No problems once the proper screws were tightened w/o blue loktite. Glad your new widened setup is working. I still have a love/hate relationship with mine.
Thanks. I'm having some trouble with my Big Rock at the moment. Something wrong with the rear diff. Not sure what. Input gear and crown gear appear good. I replaced it anyway with metal and still no movement on the rear wheels. Will need to keep digging.
@@Funcentric Did you check the internal differental gears? Jenny's RC sells complete diffs for 12 dollars that have all the bearings and what not so you just drop the new one in and you're good to go! Good to check all the way out to the wheel to make sure nothing in the driveline and axle is broken and not moving one of the wheels. Cheers!
@@3dconceptsofutah757 Oh that's right! Thanks for the reminder. They have one on sale now too! Maybe I'll pick one up as a backup. My rear ones for the Big Rock and Typhon are already full metal, but maybe I'll need a backup for one of the fronts eventually.
Thanks! I'm thinking about doing a follow up one now that I've gone though at least 100 packs on this thing. I don't necessarily blame Arrma for this, but what happened recently was that a bearing on the power module broke which made the diff misalign with the hub. After awhile of that, the splines on the hub stripped out and the rear wheels wouldn't move anymore. Fairly decently easy fix, but took me about 3 hours to figure out the source.
Are you sure it was debris like dirt or sand or was it internal motor shavings because if it is external debris I can prepare and probably eliminate that . Cool vid Thanks !!
Good question. I think it may be a combination of both. Some are saying that the dirt gets in through the rubber gasket where the cables enter the motor. I suspect this is true b/c I haven't had issues with my replacement Rocket motors from Aliexpress.
What battery’s do you use in your big rock? I’m new to this rc thing and I don’t know what battery to get. I don’t have a big budget but if you could help me out with some information I’d greatly appreciate it.
About 90 batteries through both 3S cars so far. Haven’t experienced it but I’ll definitely keep that in mind. I know a lot of owners have had driveshaft issues. Maybe certain batches? When did you get yours?
I never had the issue until I overtightened the slipper by mistake while trying to get loctite in there. I now have the slipper a quarter turn tighter than arrma recommended spec and no issues. Since it sheared out and I simply popped it back in I'll be expecting issues in the future till I replace the shaft but 2 packs down and so far so good!
Thank you for going through this. We have a granite and don’t really run it because we are afraid of breaking and not knowing how to fix it... do u have any experience with using a mesh cover for rocks and debris? I was wondering if that would cause the car to overheat. Thanks
It probably wont overheat because of that. Check motor temperatures every now and then. Should be under 130 degrees ish. If it’s too hot to keep your finger on it, it’s way too hot. A budget car that’s way more reliable is the HBX 16889. Smaller though so not good for grass.
Thank you for a great review. I am considering the Arma Big Rock or the Traxxas Hoss. Do you have any opinions about which one is better? Thank you so much for your time sir.
I have zero experience with traxxas and hope that continues. I’m curious about the hype of the Maxx but not fond of the company so clear bias to be quite honest. I don’t like their prices, their proprietary battery connectors, overpriced batteries and chargers. The whole ecosystem runs me the wrong way. And they seem to be suing everyone left and right, including HBO for using the word Max. Can you believe it? Horrible. Their mph speed claims also require a different pinion than the one included in the car so false advertising or misleading at best. By comparison, arrma’s 50mph claim is truly legit right out of the box. I’ve been meaning to do a follow up video to this one but bottom line is that I don’t regret the purchase of a 3S BLX car. I sorta kinda maybe wished I had gotten the Granite for wheeling. But then again, that might only because I have the stability of the Big Rock. I hear Traxxas Maxx ESC’s breaking is a common thing. Don’t know if that translates to the Hoss. Before making a big purchase like that, I’d recommend joining a Traxxas Hoss Facebook Group just to poke your head in for a couple weeks to see what repeating issues keep coming up.
Thank you so much for the quick reply and for all the advice. I’m going to take a look at all the things you said. Keep up the great videos. You think about the things no one else does. Great job Sir. Now go have some fun racing.🏎
@@craighellberg4366 Thanks Craig! Yeah, I think from the perspective of long term ownership as opposed to playing with something for a week until the next thing arrives in the mail. Too much of that on RUclips. Hard to know what’s good because everyone seems to hype everything and the next thing becomes the best thing and it never stops.
@@craighellberg4366 Thanks Craig! Yeah, I think from the perspective of long term ownership as opposed to playing with something for a week until the next thing arrives in the mail. Too much of that on RUclips. Hard to know what’s good because so many people hype everything like it’s the best thing. And then next month comes among and it’s like they forgot about the other stuff. I don’t believe that everything new is necessarily better and worth replacing the old. GoPro for FPV for instance. The best one for most people is the Hero 7 because it had a replaceable lens and is priced well used or refurbished. Go pro 8 and meet had a built in lens so once I crashes, there’s no repairing. And also at a significant higher cost.
Thanks! Figured I’d document this. More like a journal for me but thought it would help other people too who haven’t gotten the car yet or who are pretty fresh.
OK was really considering this car and and now kinda rethinking my decision. Looks like alot extra time and effort. Would really just like more time driving and less of the drama.
Yeah, expect to spend at least another $100 on it just in replacement parts. Also if it's your first lipo product, you'll need a proper hobby charger. Doesn't come with batteries, so you'll need probably 2 for around $60-70 on top of that. Let me know if you are indeed looking for a first RC. I've got a few in mind but my recommendation would depend on your needs, expectations, etc.
I had the older Cyan Big Rock, and barely a month in and all kinds of issues started popping up. The axle popping off, the plastic drve shaft entirely coming off, pinion getting lose every run, plastic diffs exploding a few revs in. Stay away from the plastic driveshaft models, and get a 6s model.
Yeah, no problem. Figured it would be good to put everything into one video so people don't have to accidentally come across stuff in a billion other random videos with poor audio and poor lighting.
WOW,, just came across this vid, it could't have come along at a better time. I'm looking at both vehicles, which if you could only have one. would it be...and why. I'm just getting into this, I fly FIXED Wing and drones. but grandson want to Bash....so gotta keep up....NEED HELP HERE....we'll mostly be on the street and dirt lots, BMX tracks, etc....
Great, glad you found this helpful. BMX tracks would be quite different from the rest of the driving terrain and areas. So difficult to say. I recommend cars based on the specific person - not just what car is "good". It really depends on the context. Some cars are very well performing but take a lot of maintenance, repairs, upgrades to keep them going. That can be a royal pain for someone new and/or who doesn't want or doesn't have the capacity to be wrenching on it regularly. I imagine most beginners would want to drive more than work on the car or wait for parts. 1/10 scale minimum for grass. I actually wouldn't recommend an Arrma for a first car however. Let me get back to you with more info later. Gotta head out right now but wanted to get back to you.
@@Funcentric update....I've actually ended up with 10th scale Losi Tenacity TT Pro, yep much different, but I believe it's more suited to what my purpose is...I've always liked SC trucks
@@longcrawler Okay, cool. Glad you found something for you and your grandson. If you're looking for something smaller, meaning easier to store and lug around and also won't damage itself under its own weight, I'd recommend the Haiboxing 16889A Pro. I have the original non pro which was great already. The Pro has all metal drive train, upgraded shocks and costs just $103 from ebay with 4 day shipping. Very durable. I also have the 1/18 scale version but 1/18 isn't as good of an all around car since it is a bit squirrely and very low ground clearance. Monster truck though.
@@longcrawler To answer your original question, I'd think the Arrma Granite deserves to be as popular as it is. Again, I wouldn't recommend a 3S Arrma as a first RC, but if you had to, Granite would be a good choice. I wish I got that over my Big Rock. The Granite has a shorter wheelbase and therefore can wheelie more easily. More challenging to drive than the Typhon which is a point and shoot car. It handles incredibly well, too well in fact. The short course truck version, Senton is known to parachute, meaning air gets underneath the body and it kinda flies up. Taller center of gravity and small wheels so handling isn't as good, but I find it to still be suitable. I have the Mega version that I modified just a couple days ago.The body is known to tear into the wheels though and rip it for the 3S version. Something to be aware of.
Cool! Thanks for taking the time to let me know you liked the video. I should warn though that if this is your first RC car, I wouldn't recommend a 1/10 scale 3S car. It's probably more than most people would want to deal with. People only see the bashing videos of them flying through the air and going really fast, but the reality is figuring out what's broken, repairs, ordering parts, waiting for parts, installing them, repeat. I imagine most people would rather spend time driving than working on the vehicle. Let me know if you want a recommendation.
@@Funcentric thanks man - you are right but it won't be my first car - I have racked up many hours in the break/repair cycle! I have a 1/12 and a 1/14 scale bashers (plus a couple of crawlers) and love tinkering. I am looking for a larger scale for parks or large areas that can handle driving on grass. I like what I have seen of the arrmas and have been looking at the bigrock or a 4S Kraton. I'd appreciate your thoughts on a good rig to suit.
Thanks, I actually bought that from another guy so I don't have the file, but perhaps it's available on Thingyverse or the Arrma forums on Facebook. Mine broke by the way, so not the strongest material. It does keep the junk out though.
I've never used Spektrum. Too pricey for me anyway. Vast majority of Arrma owners use Zeee. I jumped on the bandwagon. I use Hoovo too, depending on which is cheaper or on sale at the moment. Good warranty, so I'm fine with it not being the best of the best.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful for you. I'm thinking about putting together a 100 pack conclusion video. Whether I'd buy it again, etc. Spoiler alert, yes.
I've had some issues with very slightly bent shock shaft. The two pack of Shock shaft/Perch is $5.99 and these shocks can be tore apart and rebuilt in about 5 minutes per shock. Very basic shock.
Yup, I’ve done that too but eventually got tired of having to do it repeatedly and doing it so often adds up in cost. I’ve since gone with the eBay shocks. $35 for a set of four now I believe.
@@Funcentric nice I did buy a spare full set new from JennysRc for $16.99. I have the rebuild kits but it seems like these shocks never really “blow” out they just get dirt and grime jammed up in the seals. Great video by the way!
@@justinlefevre542 yeah I bought a couple. But eventually the unreliability got the best of me and I got tired of having to stop midway through a pack because of stuff like this. Particularly if I’m driving somewhere out of the way to run these, it’s kind of a let down to have to repair with the little time I have.
Yeah, it's weird. I did notice that this driveshaft issue didn't pop up until the recent past few months in the Facebook groups as being a thing. I'm wondering if earlier batches of the v3 just didn't have that issue. Perhaps poor quality control in the recent batches? Dunno. I'm up at about 85 packs now and still no driveshaft issue.
That was sold to me by a friend. It’s a print from thingiverse. There should be a 3D print file on there. Sorry I’m not that knowledgeable when it comes to 3D printed stuff.
@@Funcentric yea man was over my budget as well but my buddy said he had the amazon credit card and he wouldn't mind if i just payed him the payments every month he sure hooked me up!
I hear that too, but at $85, not everyone can afford them. Good luck to ya though. They should make the car pretty much bulletproof from what I've read up on.
I have broke 2 u-joints on the axel in 2 paks already. On the same wheel. Idk why cause I wasn't punching throttle or brake and wasn't jumping. Just driving down and Bak on the road. I was actually thinking of contacting arrma cause for 400$ it should last longer or something is wrong. Idk.im running the vorteks 3s by the way
Let's see a rebuild video?.. 40-60 packs ran? Have to do maintenance at some point. Especially with getting wet sand,dirt etc.. Good vid for someone novice foresure. Good vid brother legit.. All truth but not very technical but still extremely good IMO
Thanks yeah there’s some pretty good technical videos out there already. Figured I didn’t need to do another. This guy. He’s excellent. ruclips.net/video/faKrWfy4yuY/видео.html I don’t think I could do better.
I really appreciate your long term view on these vehicles. If I had seen this video earlier, I would have been better prepared for my Granite BLX's issues.
Most folks only look at the short-term because they're trying to sell you the truck with an affiliate link.
Mad props to you for taking the effort to do a proper long view. 👍🏽👍🏽
Yes! Every “review” is an ad and I was sick of it. Had to create a legit one with proper lighting and audio. Glad you found this useful though.
I’m here because two wheels fell off my Big Rock within just a few minutes of the FIRST pack. First one was a loose wheel nut, followed by that loose axle stub. Great video!
@@michaeljnewton a little sad that this is a well-known issue, but Arrma has not fixed yet on new stock
Any solution for this? I'm just about to buy a new Granite or Big Rock 3S
@@nivin3 yes, the solution is to just make sure the axle stubs are tightened and have spare wheel nuts. I’m 10 packs into hard bashing and haven’t had any issues since.
@@nivin3 My video shows what to tighten and how to do it. The wheel coming off isn't a known issue once it's tightened up. Just that out of the factory, one wheel is always loose.
Dude! Thanx so much for the shoutout for my videos!!! I truly appreciate that. Wow, you've covered every facet of this RC thoroughly. Like yourself, I haven't experienced all these issues, a real eye-opener for the unknown. I am really interested in that 3D piece covering your steering assembly, have yet to see that, great idea.This video should be saved in all Arrma RC owner's playlists, it will be in mine. Well done brother.
Of course. Giving credit where it’s due. I was serious about yours being the best. No one needs to even bother competing.
@@Funcentric That means alot to me, those vids take a long time when you have young kids at home. You know all about it. Thx bro.
@@phillybrc yeah I know all about that too. Takes longer to edit than to film. Haha.
@@Funcentric oh, totally!
I really appreciate you taking the time to do what the professional reviewers will not. They like to talk about how great something is so their sponsors will keep sending them free shit while guys like me actually spend money on and then have to live with the stuff. In regards to the drive axels, I have a hypothesis on those. The big rock doesn't have a center diff so power is transferred equally to the front and rear. However when hooking up on a solid surface the rear end squats to plant and the front end lifts. This places the majority of the launch torque on the rear wheels and axels. I put about 3 packs through my big rock before I snapped a rear axel at the yoke. 1 pack later, the other snapped. The torque will actually begin to oval the holes in the yokes (You can see it happening on yours too) and eventually the pins will be allowed to travel so far toward the outside of the yoke that it will open up and release the pins.
Also, my rear wheels are now warped. Yes, warped. Again, this only happened to the rears. I drive on pavement a lot due to lack of usable soft terrain so i'm in an unfortunate position. It really hooks up on pavement. However, under the body, it says 'Don't just bash, blast'. So I think Arrma sold us short on the issue. They design these things to take abuse but won't even survive under their own power. You can try and upgrade to the HD drive axels but they won't be in stock until the end of summer. That's a huge fail IMHO and I shouldn't have to upgrade these parts just for the vehicle to survive itself basically. There is too much torque transferred to the rear end for their current design parameters. So now what? I'm suppose to turn a $320 vehicle into a $400 vehicle so it's 'right' out of the box? 4 packs man. There's no excuse for that. I could make warranty claims every time I drive it, but is that even remotely excusable?
The Arrma fan bois will tell you to adjust your slipper. It's actually too lose from the factory! I been at this 30 years and I know how to adjust my slipper. I also know what it's there for and it's not this. Maybe it's OK for the race kids to burn through slippers daily for the sake of a perfect launch and winning. But it's really just the servo saver of drive trains. I shouldn't have to burn through slippers to save my rear end from the motor. That's just ridiculous. You got yourself a sub man. Keep on keeping it real.
Yup, a lot of "reviews" are just test runs. It doesn't discuss longevity or ownership at all. Seems like every new product is better than the last which we know is totally not true! I know Emax won't be sending me free products anytime soon. Haha, I've bashed them hard on the TRUTH. Supplying an FPV quad with an ESC that can't handle the amp draw of the motor they include is complete nonsense. Can't support that.
I see what you mean about the rear squat at launch of the Arrma Big Rock. Power I guess doesn't require a center diff, but we do have the slipper clutch. Seems like the slipper needs to be set perfectly and in align with the punch level to get good results. Mine won't wheelie anymore. Don't know what the issue is, but it's either a combination of slipper/punch or I broke a bearing somewhere is my guess.
I don't have 30 years under my belt like you do so I'm open to any suggestions you have. By now, I've run through maybe 100 battery packs though between the Big Rock and Typhon. I drive these almost daily, a few packs and I'm a bit of a research nut.
Arrma does take a big risk by openly saying their cars are bashers. In that sense, more power to them and I do respect that vs other companies who may be too shy to say so fearing ridicule by their potential fan base.
I've had a bunch of budget cars and do appreciate the durability in build quality of the Arrma cars, but for sure there is more that can be improved on for future versions. From the interviews I've watched with the owner of Arrma, I'm confident that they do look into feedback to identify what are legitimate issues. Hopefully they'll address those ASAP.
Warranty coverage by Horizon Hobby is great though, so it's not like they're trying to milk us in repairs.
I appreciate your appreciation. Haha. Good luck with your rides. Stay safe out there.
@@Funcentric ' Mine won't wheelie anymore. Don't know what the issue is, but it's either a combination of slipper/punch or I broke a bearing somewhere is my guess. '
^^^ You likely made enough changes to the slipper and punch that you're not getting enough torque to the rear wheels to do this. Running a loose slipper will result in exponentially reduced slipper life. The looser it is, the faster it wears. it exists as a means to control backlash torque to the drivetrain. Not save it from itself. But this method of reducing torque to the rear wheels is just robbing Peter to pay Paul. The Arrma forum users love to suggest it. In reality Arrma needs to address the glaring weakness in the design for version 4. I would set it back to factory spec and drop the punch down to 1 and see if you're happy there. Regulating torque electronically doesn't cost you mechanical wear.
Do those look like on road tires? Your complaing about failure due to you buying the wrong car for your driving surface. I don't have a big rock and own multiple of many brands. You chose the wrong tool for the job.
Excellent! Very informative. I wish there was more of this sort of thing available. You deserve more views and subscriptions. Keep it up!
Thanks man! I really appreciate that!
As a rule of thumb, new RC`ers imo should think: the more performance, the higher the likelihood of things breaking.
It`s not always true, especially in higher up price ranges, but performance comes at a cost, either just mechanically, or financially, some times both 😋
Good thing guys like you are out there to inform people and list what they should look out for and be ready for, lots of great info in this video (:
@@afrog2666 Thanks for the kind words. You said it better than me. You’ré absolutely right. I think people get so caught up in the fancy stuff and see RUclips videos of all the jumping that they don’t know the behind the scenes stuff of repairs late at night. Haiboxing cars I still think are great out of the box for beginners and they’re coming out with a much higher performing car. Will be curious about the longevity of a larger scale more powerful platform. It could make or break the brand.
@Funcentric Nice video! I love my big rock. One thing for new buyers is use the warranty! It comes with a 2 year warranty which is great. I had the same centre drive shaft issue except the rock also scored the shaft coming out of the slipper clutch assembly. Arrma sent me a new drive shaft and complete slipper clutch assembly. My steering servo also went, arrma shipped me out a new one of those. I also had issues with the rod ends and pivot balls, they sent me out a set of each as well. I am in Canada and had no issues with them shipping the parts from the states. They sure stand behind their products.
How are you contacting them? I used to have pretty good luck with them early on a year ago, but as of the past couple of months, they don't seem to answer their calls anymore. The voicemail message just says to contact the via the website. Email requests for claims seem to never get approved in my experience. Good to hear that it's working for you though.
As for the servo, it really is junk. For all the work it takes to take stuff apart and replace, I'd highly recommend that you get at least a cheapo $15-17 one as opposed to replacing it with another stock one. Maybe you can use the stock one as a backup while you order and install a better one. I have the red one from Amazon.
@@Funcentric I should have mentioned in my original post that my warranty claims were March and May of 2021. It's too bad that they are no longer providing the service they were.
As for the replacement servo, they sent me the SPMS652 servo. The original one was the SPMS651. The replacement one I got is 18kg.
Hey do you have a link to the 3d printed front cover? I bought a mesh cover that I have not installed yet. I am trying to keep sand and rocks out of the chassis and from under the motor and slipper clutch.
@@attk1984I had never made a warranty claim with any company before Arrma...
My Felony had a servo failure, just like my Granite servo, but with the Granite I bought a new one.
I was a little strapped for cash when my Felony servo died and someone on the Arrma forums suggested I contact Warranty claims thru email.
They shipped me out a new servo next day airmail. It only took 2 emails to get it shipped out.
I'm well happy with Horizon Hobby's warranty support.
Also a shout-out to AMain Hobbies warranty service.
One of my new GRP tires started coming unglued. Two emails later they're sending me a new one (which I will add plenty of extra glue to.
@Boogie_the_cat Awesome! Getting back up and running quickly is always a good thing.
It is refreshing to see useful information derived from firsthand experience. Thank you for the video!
Thanks! Yeah, I see too many videos that are just test drives of a few packs.
Great long terms review and a good explanation of the rear diff problems. An issue a lot of us have experienced is the poor machining of the diff case, causing the crown and/or input gears to catch. Light loosening fixes this.
How do you loosen? Just loosen the screws? Maybe I should give that a shot but I always thought it was stripping b/c the mesh was already too loose.
@@Funcentric hey there. I’m literally talking about backing off 1/2 turn or a turn. I do still adopt this approach on my vorteks. On the Big Rock, I’ve actually upgraded to a HR diff case which is beautifully machined
@@patmarcus172 Nice! Thanks for the tip! I'll give that a try next time I have it open. Much appreciated!
And yes, I always hear great things about the Hot Racing diff case being a great upgrade. Just don't want to pour so much money into the thing.
Yesterday, I installed the motor mount bracket by Hot Racing. Speaks to a different problem from the one we're discussing, but the fitment of the Hot Racing product is spot on. Gives me confidence to buy more stuff from them.....like a diff case.
Finally, after days of looking, this is the video I was searching for!!!!
Yeah, I did the same thing. Was looking for something like this and it didn't exist. So made my own for y'all. The other videos were either really jiggly with footage giving me a headache, completely unplanned with no organization, had poor lighting in some guy's garage or poor quality sound where it's tough to really hear what's going on.
My video doesn't have a ton of detail, but the idea is for viewers to know what to search for. Sometimes we don't know what we don't know. Don't know what to look for. This video is meant to be more like a stepping stone.
I drove the Big Rock for first time yesterday just in my yard and driveway and a wheel went rolling off across the street lol, thanks for showing how to fix it
Yeah, it’s literally with all of them.
Very helpful info. I know most channels are getting the cars for free, and they have nothing bad to say about it.
Glad I could help you out.
Yeah, those other videos are often just promotions disguised as reviews. So few actual reviews out there. I don’t do reviews until I’ve run through at least 50 batteries. If I just run a single pack, I won’t have anything to say other than spewing out specs which people can just read on the manufacturer’s website.
Great video! I'm just getting into RC cars and found the big rock on eBay for a good price and waiting for it to come in now. This video is by far the most informative and well explained video and I really appreciate it.
Cool, thanks for letting me know. There’s a part two also.
Bravo! Hands down this video helped me more then any other on YT. So thank you sir for being so thorough.
Awesome! Glad it did. Yeah, I've gone through a lot too and have had a fair bit of experience running through well over 100 battery packs by now and figured it's probably easier for people to see everything thorough in a single video with decent sound and lighting.
Good video bud. I'll give you my little secret tip on the motor mount getting bent when you move up to a brushless . Well I used the blx mega spur and pinion case . All plastic and guess what , I havent bent any motor mount since !!! Good is God and God is great!
Well , I bought one when they first came out and I am thinking that I only have put 4 battery packs through it' then I got really sick but here it is 2024 and I pulled it out thinking the battery pack wouldn't be any good but to my surprise it works great !! I did store it in storage mode though . Planning to get out soon !! And thanks for the motor tip ! I will be putting a rubber shim under to help prevent those problems .
Awesome. Enjoy the car again!
I've found a dust cover is great for dealing with crap getting in there I also installed an outcast wing with a typhon mount that helps with a bit more protection at the back and it looks great fits straight on
Good tips. Thanks!
Thank you Sir! We are waiting for a "after 100 Battery Packs" Video!
Yeah, I'm actually working on that. Going through a few things though. Spoiler alert is that I broke another diff on the Big Rock, the first one on the Typhon, switched to metal and it creates other problems which is expected. Forces don't disappear with stronger parts. They just move onto the next weakest link. So it's a matter of what part do you want to access, pay for and install.
Love for the 1/16 scale is growing b/c of this, but the power and excitement of the 1/10 scale can't be denied.
@@Funcentric I am still waiting! But thanks for this video. It helped me getting startet with Arrma 3s. Now i have 3 Arrma 3s Models :)
@@runnerbaba I've been working on some 2S builds, so haven't had time to film anything for 100 packs. I have gone through at least 100 packs already though through my 3S cars so I'll put something together. Thanks for keeping me on track. haha.
Jealous you are in the BA. I grew up in Palo Alto. GREAT info, thank you!
Let's trade houses. I actually would love to be in Palo Alto. Fewer people there. Less traffic. I'm guessing people are nicer there too. But food is just as expensive unfortunately.
@@Funcentric Wish I could, but I am stuck with inbred welfare trash in Idaho currently.
GREAT VID Funcentric! I've watched this Vid like 5 times already, NO JOKE, On my first pack, stock punch setting on 70% I experienced 3 of the issues you mentioned in this Vid!! This is the first Arrma in my fleet and have high hopes for getting some of their 6s and 8s cars but if this one keeps up like this, I'll stick to my other brands!! I'll admit it did rip for the first 8 mins! I'm a little bitter but I have patience! Let's go Big Rock!
Cool, glad you’re finding it useful. I’m currently testing out a hot racing motor mount. Only a couple packs in so no strong feelings get but I’ll likely do a video or at least a mentioning of it. Nice that it’s half the price of the m2C racing product which I refuse to buy as it’s wayyyyy overpriced.
Fantastic video! I plan on buying this car and very glad I found this video. You have saved me some time and money for the future. Subscribed!
Awesome! Glad you found it useful and informative. Trying to make videos I wish I was able to see before purchases.
Thank you for the axel issue, i always thought i had a wheel wobble from a axel it self. As for the shocks buy the proline shocks. Solves all the shock issues...you can litterly feel the landing its so soft.
Too expensive for me. I ended up with the eBay ones. No issues so far. Hasn’t fallen apart yet. Haha.
Just picked up my 2 big rock and found your vids so helpful thank you great tips 👍👍
Awesome! Glad I could help. Yeah, there's videos here and there about various things, but I wanted to put something together that consolidates everything into a single source. Wish I had this video before I got mine! Haha. Enjoy your Arrma. It's a love/hate thing.
Nice long term review and good tips!
Thank you so much. I wish I had found this when I first got my BR. Very informative. Something of note. The slipper clutch adjustment and tightening. I know it's a year later but man it took me three days to figure that out on my own.
Slipper clutch was such a pain for me too.
I don't know if BR has the same issue, but on my Granite, the little black plastic triangle-ish part that goes in the rear-facing end of the slipper (the part where the washer is) that is supposed to help prevent the washer from backing out of the screw, my Granite didn't come with that piece, and after I got that piece in the Arrma "slipper maintenance kit" the piece doesn't even fit. Well, it fits in the back part of the spur assembly, but it doesn't leave enough room for the rear diff gear to slide in.
Does your BR have that little black plastic bit, if you remember?
@Boogie_the_cat sorry for the late response. Didn’t see it until just now. I don’t recall about the black piece. There is an exploded diagram in the online manual and I don’t recall anything unusual.
Good info. Nicely done. I would add that it’s important to have the slipper clutch adjustment correct to help prevent stripping of the diff gears and the whole drivetrain. Next it’s usually the bearing that is on the shaft end of the motor that goes out and yes from dirt and also the dust from spur gear wear and slipper pad wear. The bearing on the shaft end is easy to remove and the one on the other end you can use a shaft and keep tapping bread into the center and it will push the bearing out. If you cut an opening through the chassis right below the spur gear it lets the debris fall out. Sounds crazy but it does work. And last thing on the shocks, remove the shock then if you unscrew the red cap on the top you can slide the spring right off. 👍
Thanks for the comments and adding to the tips. The only thing I'm questioning though is drilling an opening beneath the spur. I suspect that it would actually allow dirt to creep up in there moreso than to let dirt out. I know Arrma includes that "feature" in the 6S models, but I can't help but to think there's a reason it was not done even for the newer 3S cars. You could right. I've seen a lot of discussion about it but haven't done any tests myself personally. Thanks for bringing it up though. Good info for others to consider.
@@Funcentric I can tell you what I have experienced. My son in-law and I bought our senton at the same time. He runs his hard in the dirt and mud. (Him and his 3 young sons) his bearings on the slipper spur gear assembly and the spur gear went bad in less then 3 weeks. I told him what rich duperbash recommended was to open it up so he did. That was in may of 2020. Never had the problem again and his motor bearings are still the originals. I on on the other hand did not open it, I too thought this can’t work. I am a clean freak so I took mine apart a lot and cleaned it out. And I run mostly pavement and grass but there was always that fine dust in there. My motor bearing went bad on the pinion side. So then I opened it up and it stays much cleaner. I cut my opening so it’s only open on the side where the spur gear is coming down when going forward that way it won’t suck anything up only push it down. Try it you can always seal it back up. Thanks again. I enjoy your videos.
@@bapasrcadventures3619 hmmm, cool. Thanks for the detailed experience. Maybe it’s you that’ll be the one thing that’ll make me give it a try. You may have convinced me. Thanks again.
@@bapasrcadventures3619
Thanks for providing the Traxxas roof rack part number in the description. The "wall of RCs" guys rarely make it that easy. It's rather annoying at times.
Also super informative video! You saved me a lot of frustration.
Yeah sure. No problem. Glad the video was helpful.
Bro, this was a GREAT and helpful review. Like THIS is what we all want to know. SERIOUSLY. Just found a used one for $150. I know the feelings about used RC's but hell... I make it work lmao.
Yeah for $150, you can throw money at it and it'll still be a grip of savings. On the flip side though, I can see how someone would be so frustrated that they'd let it go for $150. It'll be fun while it works, but just expect all the other stuff you'll have to deal with.
For less than $150 I'd highly recommend the Haiboxing 16889 PRO version with metal gearing, brushless motor and upgraded shocks if you're okay with a 1/16 scale car. I have the regular non-pro brushless one and it's practically indestructible. I messed it up by changing out the electronics and running it on 3S. Don't do that. So 2S Pro version would be a dream machine you can play with more than wrench on.
@@Funcentric Yeah I've been dwelling on the HBX pro... I see the rebranded one on Amazon. I was debating because I really do like the 1/10 scale and the stability and was worried about having to order over seas for HBX parts. That being said, most people seem to have zero problems with them from what I see. Been looking at , Slash, Rustler 4x4, Associated MT10 and the HBX. I just happened to see this listing and I'm trying to weigh the costs. Can't say I really want to toss $400 at an RC car right now but also don't want to be fixing a car every damn day. Mostly into off-road and really like the clearance on the trucks in general. After watching a weeks worth of vids I see why ppl say just be a new one lmao.
@@jjones7837 I wouldn't say that HBX would be a replacement. Just that reliability is a lot better. Reason to though is also b/c of the size. Smaller RC's just weigh less and so it doesn't really kill itself as much as heavier 1/10 scale cars potentially can.
If you're fairly new, I'd say go for the 1/16 scale HBX 16889 Pro knowing it won't necessarily perform well on grass due to the physical scale itself. For me, reliability is priority but I admit, there's something insanely fun about a 1/10 scale running at 50mph (when it's working). The $400 Arrma is easily $500 plus the cost of batteries and charger if you don't have that already.
Very valuable infos, thank your for taking the time to make this video.
Sure thing! Figured I could save people some time and help them know what to look up. I have a follow up video I uploaded just a few days ago.
Great video. Any owner of this car should watch this. Also your truck looks like the inside of a lawnmower lol!
Haha, yeah it takes awhile to clean but so fun running this in wet grass.
I will certainly be addressing all these issues once I get my truck!!! Thank you
Awesome. I'm thinking about doing a wrapup video of final thoughts. Owning one is fun, but honestly getting irritating fixing this and that.
@@Funcentric For a new guy getting into the hobby, would you suggest the big rock or granite? I currently have an ECX torment ( its POS), which I'll be giving to my teenager. I am looking for an all-around fun truck for myself and an activity to do with my sons. But to be honest, I am more partial to the big rock primarily based on its looks...
@@cjboots1115 I have a Big Rock and Typhon, so I can't speak personally of the Granite. However, from what I understand, the Granite and Big Rock are essentially the same truck but the Big Rock is just a long wheel base vs the Granite that is shorter. Internals are the same. The Granite should be able to wheelie more easily while the Big Rock stays grounded.
For reliability though, I'd recommend the HBX 16889 brushless version, a RTR for under $100 shipped. 1/16 scale though. Keep it stock. I modded mine from 2S to 3S and the internals just can't handle it.
Big Rock I kept stock thinking it would put less strain on it, but there's a lot of inherent issues with the Arrma 3S BLX series. It's quite the money sucker as you can imagine from all the issues.
Great video, like most people I have seen most of these issues on the Arrma 3S platform... in my case a Typhon. It's a pretty short list considering the abuse these cars can put up with. Happy bashing :)
Longer list than I was expecting, but acceptable enough that I got a Typhon after.
You seem like a really cool guy. Thanks for the informative videos
Sure thing man! I'm just a regular dude who happens to be a father and into fun toys.
You got lucky.. I just bought the Big Rock and haven't even used a full battery yet and have had the rear drive shaft break and the rear shock piece pop out... and all I was doing was getting used to the vehicle never even hit a jump! Lol thanks for this video on ideas on how to fix these problems
Yeah the shock popping out of the perch is pretty much a given. Mine hasn’t had the issue with the rear driveshafts but I’ve heard a ton about other people with that issue. Unfortunate for what’s now a $370 car + tax that’s not really RTR. For a first timer, it’s probably more like $500-550 USD after buying a charger and a couple of batteries. Even more for Canadians and Australians.
@@Funcentric it's definitely not ready to run. I have a Traxxas Rustler and have beat the he'll out of it and the only issue I had was the motor coming loose and needing new tires lol and I paid $100 less for it and it's sturdier than the Big Rock
Thank you ! Just bought one for Xmas, doing pre-drive research.... There is alot to think about/ adjust. Really appreciate this video! 😀
Sure! Tried to put it all together in one place that has decent lighting and audio. Wish I had this video for myself. Are you looking for a starter car or have you been in the rc scene for awhile?
@@Funcentric first basher type. Have a couple of 1/10 axial crawlers , and a Tamyia 1/14 truck and trailer. I like building Frome scratch over RTR, because I get to know the vehicle as I go... RTRs, are learn as you fly and because the big rock flys... I'm a little nervous about it.
@@DJvvAZZ I see. If you like building, then you may want to get a Mega when it goes on sale at Tower Hobbies under the Scratch and Dent section. Then build from there. That's what I did with my 2S car. Ended up costing more than a 3S BLX, but it's so much more reliable and still fun. It won't be flying on 2S though. Best for track racing. For me, reliability is important b/c I like driving more than wrenching on the thing.
Before building though, I'm wondering if you want to begin with a starter truck. The HBX 16889A Pro for $90 from eBay is an excellent way to start 1/16 scale, so you're not going to be running it through grass due to the ground clearance.
I'm just hesitant to recommend a 3S BLX as a first basher b/c it's a lot to deal with as you see from the video. The $330 car easily becomes $600. Remember you need batteries, a charger, and there's tax and all the repair parts.
Welp . I WAS buying a big rock tmw …..lol… thank you for ALL of this valuable info .
Thank you for being a great person buddy.
Thanks mate for your useful and very important info, almost everything you covered I've had the same experience with my Arrma Granite (will order the Big rock soon) I wish I watched this video before I brought my RC car as it would have saved me a lot of time
Haha, yeah I wish this video was available before I got mine too. I uploaded a part 2 a couple weeks ago.
@@Funcentriccan you link it to me please?
@@jcorpz7796 It's on my channel. Just search for Arrma. There's a playlist.
Thank you so much for this video. Straight to the point brutally honest with practical solutions
Sure thing! It helps that I'm not trying to sell anything. No affiliate links. I can't take credit for all the solutions. Some of it is gathered from my research and talking to people. Glad it helped you out.
Thanks for this, excellent review and outline of issues.. subbed!
@@suavedhaval1 sure! I’ve seen too many videos with terrible lighting and even worse sound. Figured I’d put something together that hopefully isn’t such a struggle to watch.
I have a part 2 that talks about the minimal stuff you’ll need to have the car running without breaking all the time.
@@Funcentric I will certainly take a look!
Great info! Thanks for taking the time to put this together
Sure! Yeah I wish I had this as a resource in my early days.
@@Funcentric just got my Bog Rock this weekend and trying to figure it all out. Xt60 connector on the Gens Ace lipo seems to have melted to the converter I use to connect it to the truck 🤦🏼♂️too much amperage I think. I’m heading back to the hobby shop to get sorted soon
@@AderNyland oh no! Yeah the connector needs to be able to handle the amperage being drawn from the motor. I know it’s a little late, but this should provide some context, ruclips.net/video/_iFKiRDsw6U/видео.html
@@AderNyland you need ec5 connectors for the amperage that’s being drawn from the motor in the big rock. Don’t use deans connectors either. Ec5 only.
@@Funcentric that’s what I have gone to now across the board. I think the guy at the hobby shop missed the boat on that one. Thanks for the help!
I had that same issue with the drive shaft. And I forget what piece I bought but I bought a different outdrive and I was able to solve it with that.
After keeping an eye on it every battery pack, I've been able to clear any debris that had previously been eating up my center driveshaft. I do know aftermarket aluminum ones are available too. I suspect it would cause more damage to the chassis though as the center drive shaft would no longer give.
I have a Typhon that I converted from a Granite Mega over the course of 2 years. I've finally got it dialed in but the plastic parts are starting to wear down. Things like the holes in the composite suspension links and the hubs. I'm replacing the plastic hubs with aluminum ones. My rear differential is the metal one from the 4s line. I also added the metal spur gear. My driveshafts are also getting worn down as I've had the pins pop out of the U joints. I find it helps to have spare parts on hand. Or just keep your older parts in case you need a part in a pinch. My Typhon can run on 4s but I feel that's too much power for these vehicles. I always tend to pop a driveshaft or rip a tire when I run 4s. Ironically I've never broken an a arm.
Yeah, I haven't broken an arm either but I drive mine pretty delicately to keep it's "reliability". Still seems to be issue every few batteries.
Careful with all the metal parts. It hides all the other alignment issues the car may have. It'll allow you to keep running it w/o knowing something needs attention and then when it does, it can be a big one.
My first rc is the big rock! Ive tried to break it or atleast screw up so i can get up grades and 2yrs now nothing! I just love this truck..
Nice! You might be one of the very few. I wouldn’t actually recommend this for a first rc car but glad it worked out well for you.
How many packs is 2 years?
I'd say 4 packs daily. 4 out of 7 days. Give or take 1300 to 1600 packs in that time frame...
And I'm still on the same packs. I ruined pack by shorting out a cell...now I only have 3 3s packs
@@christopherbowman8396 omg that’s a lot!
The real deal. Thanks boss for a great video and just tons of great info. Nothing is indestructible but your tips will certainly help to alleviate some of the issues. Thank you for your insight. I'm currently deciding on my first 3s arrma.
Yeah sure! No problem. I wish I had this video when I got my Arrma. Would've helped prepare me at least mentally. Most things were unfortunately a surprise to me which wasn't exactly the good kind. I wish I got a Granite over the Big Rock. More challenging to drive and can more easily wheelie. Body looks better to me too.
The best way to deal with the drive shafts unscrewing themselves is to put some blue loctite on both ends. You need to be careful that you don't get it onto the plastic or it will make the plastic fail. Taking the truck apart to get to the wheel axle is fairly easy and thats the part that needs loctite, just put a little on the threaded section that accepts the screw, do the same on the diff side and put it back to together. Do that on all four corners and you're golden.
Yes, thanks! I missed mentioning the loktite. Thanks for the info.
I’ve been checking mine on occasion. None have been an issue. In fact I first tore them off the vehicle and they were cranked so tight I didn’t bother loosening them for the loctite. Probably around 30 packs in.
Great video. Great specific useful information.
Glad it helped. I had to put something together with as much info as I could and hoping the decent lighting and audio helps. I hate those videos of guys slurring in their dark basement or on their beds.
yesterday i got the big rock and its a blast! so fun
Great tips thanks much. I just got the Typhon 3s and really want to take care of it so it will last. Good tip on the motor mount. Like you I just don't have the big bucks to dump into my car. I'm thinking some silicone under the motor or maybe fabricate a brace some how.
Yeah, I just use some thick sticky tape. Probably not the best solution and honestly not even sure it works. I kinda baby the car so I can still drive it and not have to worry about a bent motor mount. Probably will still bend though eventually. We'll see.
I highly recommend buying the gorgon an buy a brushless if you wanna keep costs down tho fit spoiler an roof skid plates to protect body
I have a video about the OEM Mega lineup being very underwhelming and how a properly designed custom 2S car can be loads of fun but with excellent reliability. I’ve built two using Arrma cars and there great, particularly drifting in loose dirt. A lot more playing and less repairing. I found myself at the bench with my 3S cars for way too long. Took many hours to finally dial it down to be somewhat reliable.
The follow up video to this details it all out.
Great vid and great tips! Subbed!
Glad you liked it. Has to consolidate everything in one place. Was too tired of looking stuff up and seeing poor lighting + poor audio.
Aye man just wanted to thank you for the video I actually just bought the big rock v3 a week ago coming from doing budget builds for like a year so this was a perfect video and is much appreciated. Not too sure if you meant goldengate park in SF but if so ayyyeee it’s lit I’m from the city lol ✊🏽🤟🏽
Oh cool, yes Golden Gate Park in San Francisco. You can hit me up on Instagram and DM me there if you want to meet up for a drive together some time.
Yeah, my channel has a lot of budget cars. Mostly not custom though. Just wanted to see what the hype was about for various products and figured I'd share what I ultimately figured out.
As long as you're okay with the expected issues with the BLX 3S series, I think you'll be okay.
Is it only the right hand rear wheel that needs tightened or should I run through all of them? Awesome collection of tips by the way, really useful to help keep my son's car rolling.
Generally, it’s only that one but it’s worth tightening all of them. It can be pretty bad if any fall off and roll into a crowd of bicycles or cars.
I have another video about what to do to keep this thing from breaking. Just uploaded it somewhat recently.
Added a new Sub. Just stepping into this hobby and found this to be a well thought out presentation and honest description of this platform. Mine is on its way, I just ordered the roof rack. Thanks lad.👍
Awesome! Glad you came across this video before buying. I wish I had this resource too. Hopefully fewer surprises for you.
@@Funcentric I already had my mind made up, but your review gave me some important tips to owning this rig. Looking forward to getting some time with it.
Great video 👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it.
I just bought a Granite 3/2024, I emailed Arrma and asked them if they fixed all these loctite issues in the axels and sliperclutch screw backing out and they replied it has been rectified but it doesn't hurt to double check myself lol
Curious what you found out.
@Funcentric the screws in the axels screws felt like they had loctite so I didn't put any in it...the slipper clutch I adjusted and put 2 drops of loctite in the rear hole. I haven't driven my truck yet because I'm waiting for ny HTRC T240 charger to come from Bangood in about another week. I still may loctite the axels before I take it out for safe measure tho.
Great video and very informative! I’ve had every issue described in the video and have made the upgrades. Thank you for the info!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad this helped you!
Super tipps! Thanx bro! Question: Like I see @ 21:25 ...did you drill holes in the tires aganst ballooning?
Sure thing. Contemplating a part 2 follow up.
The problem with the rear drive shaft is very serious because I broke a lot of plastic stock ones, GMP as well and the last shaft that almost broke the last time were the Arrma upgrade ones. That’s why I converted the Big Rock to a Granite 3s that actually is still running with the stock ones.
Yeah, this car isn't as reliable as I was hoping. I personally have never had driveshafts fail on me fortunately, but I've heard others like yourself have.
Thanks for the video, I already experienced the wheel falling off twice...and I shredded a spur gear and a center drive shaft so now im at the point where I need to wedge something under the moto I guess 🤣 thanks for the video mate
Sure thing. Figured it would be good to put it all into one place for reference and set the expectation.
@@Funcentric ill probably look into getting one of those ''bag'' thingy that you put over the whole chassis under the body have you seen those? to prevent rocks from getting in and stuff...
Yeah, I've seen those bag thingies before. I hear they work pretty well. Just kinda cumbersome for me.
@@Funcentric yeah i know but it's gonna save a few parts here and there in the long run no?
@@Funcentric check this one out: ruclips.net/video/4gYyBCEczSk/видео.html&ab_channel=DustyMotors
I had an drive shaft come out of my Granite. I had done some upgrades and made it more powerful. What had happened was it had too much torque going to the wheels, I made the slipper clutch too tight. So the plastic drive shafts twisted a bit there at the U joint connection making it easier to slip out.
This is exactly what i needed. Thanks for an amazing video!
Sure thing! Yeah, I wish I had this video before too! Figured it'd be helpful to put it all in once place with some decent sound quality and lighting. Glad it helped out.
I found Typhon 6s shocks/springs fits nicely! Just thicken the spacer for the tower mount! You can find them at Jennys RC!
Thanks very helpful 👍
Great video
Hey mate i wonder if you know now you missed something I did aswell so had to remove shafts again you got screws holding shaft to diff I remove those aswell an put lock tight on all 4 screws lock tight best .
I ripped my 1st stock half-shaft out on my 3rd battery pack. The 2nd on the 5th.
I replaced all 4 with the aluminum GPM shafts, problem solved!
Nice! Now drivable.
And one of the solutions I found another video is old is that I couldn't keep a rear driver side tire on with the 14 mm setup. The way I found to fix my solution is I had to upgrade to the 17 mm hex heads and yes it is expensive I went through Ryder's hobby shop in Flint Michigan they got me all the upgraded stuff and now I can keep wheels on my arm a big rock
No problems once the proper screws were tightened w/o blue loktite. Glad your new widened setup is working. I still have a love/hate relationship with mine.
Thank you! Great info. I have two beat up Granites. Good advice
Thanks. I'm having some trouble with my Big Rock at the moment. Something wrong with the rear diff. Not sure what. Input gear and crown gear appear good. I replaced it anyway with metal and still no movement on the rear wheels. Will need to keep digging.
@@Funcentric Did you check the internal differental gears? Jenny's RC sells complete diffs for 12 dollars that have all the bearings and what not so you just drop the new one in and you're good to go! Good to check all the way out to the wheel to make sure nothing in the driveline and axle is broken and not moving one of the wheels. Cheers!
@@3dconceptsofutah757 Oh that's right! Thanks for the reminder. They have one on sale now too! Maybe I'll pick one up as a backup. My rear ones for the Big Rock and Typhon are already full metal, but maybe I'll need a backup for one of the fronts eventually.
Great video, good job man.
Thanks! I'm thinking about doing a follow up one now that I've gone though at least 100 packs on this thing.
I don't necessarily blame Arrma for this, but what happened recently was that a bearing on the power module broke which made the diff misalign with the hub. After awhile of that, the splines on the hub stripped out and the rear wheels wouldn't move anymore. Fairly decently easy fix, but took me about 3 hours to figure out the source.
Are you sure it was debris like dirt or sand or was it internal motor shavings because if it is external debris I can prepare and probably eliminate that . Cool vid Thanks !!
Good question. I think it may be a combination of both. Some are saying that the dirt gets in through the rubber gasket where the cables enter the motor. I suspect this is true b/c I haven't had issues with my replacement Rocket motors from Aliexpress.
What battery’s do you use in your big rock? I’m new to this rc thing and I don’t know what battery to get. I don’t have a big budget but if you could help me out with some information I’d greatly appreciate it.
My rear driveshaft has came off 3 times and I’ve bought a new set so if this happens to you I would recommend the arrma upgraded one
About 90 batteries through both 3S cars so far. Haven’t experienced it but I’ll definitely keep that in mind. I know a lot of owners have had driveshaft issues. Maybe certain batches? When did you get yours?
I never had the issue until I overtightened the slipper by mistake while trying to get loctite in there.
I now have the slipper a quarter turn tighter than arrma recommended spec and no issues. Since it sheared out and I simply popped it back in I'll be expecting issues in the future till I replace the shaft but 2 packs down and so far so good!
It’s the metal u-joint(I think it’s called) that pops out of the plastic driveshafts because of high torque
Noted. Thank you!
By the end of the video I'm flinching everytime the teeth suck happens. Great video, but I'm a weirdo and it's hard not to focus on.
Yeah I try not to do that and edit it out sometimes. Bad habit. My bad. Haha.
Any tips for a slipper clutch that keeps coming loose?
Thank you for going through this. We have a granite and don’t really run it because we are afraid of breaking and not knowing how to fix it... do u have any experience with using a mesh cover for rocks and debris? I was wondering if that would cause the car to overheat. Thanks
It probably wont overheat because of that. Check motor temperatures every now and then. Should be under 130 degrees ish. If it’s too hot to keep your finger on it, it’s way too hot. A budget car that’s way more reliable is the HBX 16889. Smaller though so not good for grass.
Thank you for a great review. I am considering the Arma Big Rock or the Traxxas Hoss. Do you have any opinions about which one is better? Thank you so much for your time sir.
I have zero experience with traxxas and hope that continues. I’m curious about the hype of the Maxx but not fond of the company so clear bias to be quite honest. I don’t like their prices, their proprietary battery connectors, overpriced batteries and chargers. The whole ecosystem runs me the wrong way. And they seem to be suing everyone left and right, including HBO for using the word Max. Can you believe it? Horrible. Their mph speed claims also require a different pinion than the one included in the car so false advertising or misleading at best.
By comparison, arrma’s 50mph claim is truly legit right out of the box.
I’ve been meaning to do a follow up video to this one but bottom line is that I don’t regret the purchase of a 3S BLX car. I sorta kinda maybe wished I had gotten the Granite for wheeling. But then again, that might only because I have the stability of the Big Rock.
I hear Traxxas Maxx ESC’s breaking is a common thing. Don’t know if that translates to the Hoss.
Before making a big purchase like that, I’d recommend joining a Traxxas Hoss Facebook Group just to poke your head in for a couple weeks to see what repeating issues keep coming up.
Thank you so much for the quick reply and for all the advice. I’m going to take a look at all the things you said. Keep up the great videos. You think about the things no one else does. Great job Sir. Now go have some fun racing.🏎
@@craighellberg4366 Thanks Craig! Yeah, I think from the perspective of long term ownership as opposed to playing with something for a week until the next thing arrives in the mail. Too much of that on RUclips. Hard to know what’s good because everyone seems to hype everything and the next thing becomes the best thing and it never stops.
@@craighellberg4366 Thanks Craig! Yeah, I think from the perspective of long term ownership as opposed to playing with something for a week until the next thing arrives in the mail. Too much of that on RUclips. Hard to know what’s good because so many people hype everything like it’s the best thing. And then next month comes among and it’s like they forgot about the other stuff. I don’t believe that everything new is necessarily better and worth replacing the old.
GoPro for FPV for instance. The best one for most people is the Hero 7 because it had a replaceable lens and is priced well used or refurbished. Go pro 8 and meet had a built in lens so once I crashes, there’s no repairing. And also at a significant higher cost.
You are in SF? Perfect!! We are trying to start a RC group. 4 members and planning to grow! Sunset area! How do we link up?
Awesome. You can message me through Instagram also @funcentric
Nail on the head bud. Good work!
Thanks! Figured I’d document this. More like a journal for me but thought it would help other people too who haven’t gotten the car yet or who are pretty fresh.
OK was really considering this car and and now kinda rethinking my decision. Looks like alot extra time and effort. Would really just like more time driving and less of the drama.
Yeah, expect to spend at least another $100 on it just in replacement parts. Also if it's your first lipo product, you'll need a proper hobby charger. Doesn't come with batteries, so you'll need probably 2 for around $60-70 on top of that.
Let me know if you are indeed looking for a first RC. I've got a few in mind but my recommendation would depend on your needs, expectations, etc.
I had the older Cyan Big Rock, and barely a month in and all kinds of issues started popping up.
The axle popping off, the plastic drve shaft entirely coming off, pinion getting lose every run, plastic diffs exploding a few revs in.
Stay away from the plastic driveshaft models, and get a 6s model.
Great video thanks !!!
Yeah, no problem. Figured it would be good to put everything into one video so people don't have to accidentally come across stuff in a billion other random videos with poor audio and poor lighting.
Great details! Thanks
Sure thing! Figured it be good to share so people know what to expect. I wish I had something like this before I got mine.
My right rear wheel came off on first run but, it was from turnbuckle popping off on one side due to the plastic on one end stripping
WOW,, just came across this vid, it could't have come along at a better time. I'm looking at both vehicles, which if you could only have one. would it be...and why. I'm just getting into this, I fly FIXED Wing and drones. but grandson want to Bash....so gotta keep up....NEED HELP HERE....we'll mostly be on the street and dirt lots, BMX tracks, etc....
Great, glad you found this helpful.
BMX tracks would be quite different from the rest of the driving terrain and areas. So difficult to say.
I recommend cars based on the specific person - not just what car is "good". It really depends on the context. Some cars are very well performing but take a lot of maintenance, repairs, upgrades to keep them going. That can be a royal pain for someone new and/or who doesn't want or doesn't have the capacity to be wrenching on it regularly.
I imagine most beginners would want to drive more than work on the car or wait for parts.
1/10 scale minimum for grass. I actually wouldn't recommend an Arrma for a first car however. Let me get back to you with more info later. Gotta head out right now but wanted to get back to you.
@@Funcentric update....I've actually ended up with 10th scale Losi Tenacity TT Pro, yep much different, but I believe it's more suited to what my purpose is...I've always liked SC trucks
@@longcrawler Okay, cool. Glad you found something for you and your grandson. If you're looking for something smaller, meaning easier to store and lug around and also won't damage itself under its own weight, I'd recommend the Haiboxing 16889A Pro. I have the original non pro which was great already.
The Pro has all metal drive train, upgraded shocks and costs just $103 from ebay with 4 day shipping. Very durable. I also have the 1/18 scale version but 1/18 isn't as good of an all around car since it is a bit squirrely and very low ground clearance.
Monster truck though.
@@longcrawler To answer your original question, I'd think the Arrma Granite deserves to be as popular as it is. Again, I wouldn't recommend a 3S Arrma as a first RC, but if you had to, Granite would be a good choice. I wish I got that over my Big Rock. The Granite has a shorter wheelbase and therefore can wheelie more easily. More challenging to drive than the Typhon which is a point and shoot car. It handles incredibly well, too well in fact.
The short course truck version, Senton is known to parachute, meaning air gets underneath the body and it kinda flies up. Taller center of gravity and small wheels so handling isn't as good, but I find it to still be suitable. I have the Mega version that I modified just a couple days ago.The body is known to tear into the wheels though and rip it for the 3S version. Something to be aware of.
Thanks for this video - veey thorough and informative. I am looking at buying a 3S truck and this has been very helpful 👍
Cool! Thanks for taking the time to let me know you liked the video. I should warn though that if this is your first RC car, I wouldn't recommend a 1/10 scale 3S car. It's probably more than most people would want to deal with. People only see the bashing videos of them flying through the air and going really fast, but the reality is figuring out what's broken, repairs, ordering parts, waiting for parts, installing them, repeat. I imagine most people would rather spend time driving than working on the vehicle. Let me know if you want a recommendation.
@@Funcentric thanks man - you are right but it won't be my first car - I have racked up many hours in the break/repair cycle! I have a 1/12 and a 1/14 scale bashers (plus a couple of crawlers) and love tinkering.
I am looking for a larger scale for parks or large areas that can handle driving on grass.
I like what I have seen of the arrmas and have been looking at the bigrock or a 4S Kraton. I'd appreciate your thoughts on a good rig to suit.
Great video sir... would you have a link or reference for that 3d printed red guard in there?? Thanks✌️
Thanks, I actually bought that from another guy so I don't have the file, but perhaps it's available on Thingyverse or the Arrma forums on Facebook. Mine broke by the way, so not the strongest material. It does keep the junk out though.
@@Funcentric 🙏
I see you are using the Zeee lipo batteries. Do you like them over the Spektrum?
I've never used Spektrum. Too pricey for me anyway. Vast majority of Arrma owners use Zeee. I jumped on the bandwagon. I use Hoovo too, depending on which is cheaper or on sale at the moment. Good warranty, so I'm fine with it not being the best of the best.
Amazing info.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful for you. I'm thinking about putting together a 100 pack conclusion video. Whether I'd buy it again, etc. Spoiler alert, yes.
I've had some issues with very slightly bent shock shaft. The two pack of Shock shaft/Perch is $5.99 and these shocks can be tore apart and rebuilt in about 5 minutes per shock. Very basic shock.
Yup, I’ve done that too but eventually got tired of having to do it repeatedly and doing it so often adds up in cost. I’ve since gone with the eBay shocks. $35 for a set of four now I believe.
@@Funcentric nice I did buy a spare full set new from JennysRc for $16.99. I have the rebuild kits but it seems like these shocks never really “blow” out they just get dirt and grime jammed up in the seals. Great video by the way!
@@justinlefevre542 yeah I bought a couple. But eventually the unreliability got the best of me and I got tired of having to stop midway through a pack because of stuff like this. Particularly if I’m driving somewhere out of the way to run these, it’s kind of a let down to have to repair with the little time I have.
I'm genuinely surprised you haven't had the driveshaft issue yet. I've gone through three of them so far.
Yeah, it's weird. I did notice that this driveshaft issue didn't pop up until the recent past few months in the Facebook groups as being a thing. I'm wondering if earlier batches of the v3 just didn't have that issue. Perhaps poor quality control in the recent batches? Dunno. I'm up at about 85 packs now and still no driveshaft issue.
@@Funcentric i'm curious if you still hear of the driveshaft issue popping up often on the newer batches of trucks.
@@zipzip8239 i haven’t really looked into it. Haven’t heard much of it at all.
Nice video interesting tips thanks big time cause I have one . Question the red piece coving the steering where I get one ?
That was sold to me by a friend. It’s a print from thingiverse. There should be a 3D print file on there. Sorry I’m not that knowledgeable when it comes to 3D printed stuff.
@@Funcentric he can make some good money by doing this, I would love one all now. More ppl seeing this video would ask about them
Nice !👍😃
Thanks! Figured I should put it all in a single video so people know what to expect and not be disappointed by any surprises like I was.
Thx
Sure thing! It was pretty fun filming but the video got kinda long huh?
Very informative 👏 thank you.
Great, glad it worked out for you.
Do you have an Arrma already or was researching to possibly get one?
@@Funcentric actually was looking in to big rock but i ultimately decided on the notorious 6s will be here on friday im super excited
@@CardinalGamingLounge awesome. Good to hear. I wanted that too but over my budget currently. Sounds like an excellent truck.
@@Funcentric yea man was over my budget as well but my buddy said he had the amazon credit card and he wouldn't mind if i just payed him the payments every month he sure hooked me up!
I ordered m2c motor mounts, I heard they the best
I hear that too, but at $85, not everyone can afford them. Good luck to ya though. They should make the car pretty much bulletproof from what I've read up on.
@@Funcentric yeah they are spendy.
@@Funcentric have you installed this and run it? What has your experience been?
Thanks for the info! Just subbed 👍🏻🍻
Sure man! No problem. Figured it be good to put all the issues in one place.
I have broke 2 u-joints on the axel in 2 paks already. On the same wheel. Idk why cause I wasn't punching throttle or brake and wasn't jumping. Just driving down and Bak on the road. I was actually thinking of contacting arrma cause for 400$ it should last longer or something is wrong. Idk.im running the vorteks 3s by the way
With all that power, something is bound to break. Smaller stuff will be more reliable.
Let's see a rebuild video?.. 40-60 packs ran? Have to do maintenance at some point. Especially with getting wet sand,dirt etc.. Good vid for someone novice foresure. Good vid brother legit.. All truth but not very technical but still extremely good IMO
Thanks yeah there’s some pretty good technical videos out there already. Figured I didn’t need to do another. This guy. He’s excellent. ruclips.net/video/faKrWfy4yuY/видео.html I don’t think I could do better.