Arrma 3s BLX Spur Gear & Slipper Clutch Maintenance. Granite Senton Big Rock Typhon Vorteks how to
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- Hi all
One thing I hadn't covered in my previous Arrma maintenance/how to videos is the spur gear and slipper clutch so I cover it here.
I also change the motor plate for one with set holes while I'm in there.
Hope this is useful to someone.
Many thanks for watching :-)
Just remember a importen note: Harder you tight it, more stress to the sprut gear! if you love speed and have that truck lift front wheel when hammer that gas, Then have a metal or seel sprut gear. plastic gears can allso do just as good but then less tight so the gear can move some when you hammer that gas down ;)
Yes indeed, all good points. Many thanks for your great feedback 😁👍
I had an aluminium one. The last drive was 30 seconds and it's tooth where all gone. Only did drive from my car to the track through gras. Yea there something horribly wrong. I am not sure what.
So where do you set yours? As it wears it's also going to change so I feel like you almost need a specific torque to aim for when turning the clutch by hand when it's out of the car and check that periodically.
I tend to set them to tight then loosen 1.5 turns. If I hear the clutch slipping when the car runs then I tighten it half a turn at a time until it doesn't happen anymore. My new 4s car needed the clutch to be tighter to stop it squealing. I need to do another video to explain it better really. Thanks for your comment 👍
@@PeteWylieRC Thanks for sharing Pete that makes sense. I set my Senton to 1.25 turns out and it didn't slip (not that I could tell). Also tried the "push the car to tighten" method which made it 7/8 of a turn out. Not sure if this is really accurate as it is dependant on the tires gripping on a surface to measure and is only playing with the resistance of the spring against the screw, not the clutch plates slipping. Figured if it drove ok at 1.25 and still did wheelies on grass it didn't need to be tighter anyway!
Just heard grinding and had a lack of power so I was pretty panicked, but you helped me find that I had the opposite issue (gear mesh knocked too loose). Thank you for your informative and entertaining content!
Ah right that's not good either but hopefully it didn't damage the gear teeth. The sliding mesh thing can be a pain really. Glad that the video helped. Many thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated 😁
Subway for helpin 🙏
Best video I’ve seen on rebuilding the spur I’ve watched so many and have never been able to get it just right,Great video
Many thanks for your nice feedback. Glad that the video was helpful 😁
Thanks for the video Pete . Went to test out my new servo today ( followed your servo video ) and exploded my spur gear or the slipper . Thanks again for these great , easy to follow videos , they are priceless for us newbies .
Oh that's a shame that you have an issue with the gears now. Hope you get it sorted and thanks for your great feedback 👍
Awesome. Exactly the info I needed to tighten the screw. Fully tight and then back 1.5 turns. I am upgrading my brushed granite from the 91 toothed spur to the 57. Spur assemblies are completely different.
Glad it was useful. Thanks for the feedback.
Great how-to demo Brother 👊. I haven't disassembled my V3 slipper yet. Nice to see ARRMA keeps improving the finer details. This vid will be super helpful for lots of people out there. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Hi there. Yeah hopefully it will be useful. I do like the way these are designed to be easy to work on. Many thanks for your kind feedback. Best wishes to you 😁
SERIOUSLY, SERIOUSLY THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO I have a Arrma Big Rock & was completely stuffed if I could work out how to remove the motor assembly to replace the slipper clutch that is now rooted.
Hey I'm glad it helped. That motor assembly can get a bit stuck with grit and bits. Many thanks for your feedback 😁👍
I’m currently making this upgrade to my son’s granite. Thank you for posting excellent info and clearly presented.
Hey that's great feedback, thanks very much. Hope you got it all sorted 😁👍
you just got me out of a bind fixing this slipper clutch.. THANK YOU
Ah I'm glad it helped. Many thanks for your great feedback 😁👍
Thanks for information I work on my Big Rock 3s So now I understand why it doesn't work.Now I fixed it 🙏 Can't wait to drive it 😊😊
Hi there. Glad this was helpful and hopefully you are up and running again. Many thanks for your great feedback 😁👍
Hiya Pete! Anther great wrenching video, very informative, mate! Very wise words, if it's making a strange noise, best to stop running and take it home for a look - running any longer and you're asking for trouble! Those Arrma's look really well made and well thought out. One day I will have to get one! Good call on the new motor plate, that makes a lot of sense.
Anyway, good news is I have a snow day tomorrow, so some beer tonight and a nice lie-in! All the best mate, take it easy and have a good week! :O)
I've just noticed that I didn't reply to this comment of yours. I was sure that I had because I was saying about the snow day. Maybe I was replying to your video. Anyway, many thanks for your comments mate. Yes I'd recommend one of the Arrma's as a basher to save your Tamiya's for lighter runs. I'd go with the Granite. Anyway, I've noticed that it's beer time so don't mind if I do! Enjoy your Saturday mate :-)
@@PeteWylieRC No worries, Pete - I think I may have missed one of your comments too about the filler? I've got so many comments at the moment I can't keep up, and the comments section in Studio is a pain in the butt - as soon as a reply is added, it doesn't show again if more comments come in - Arrggghh! The trials of being a RUclips creator! Enjoy that well earned beer! =D
That's a good idea. Greasing that little area around the open hole where the gear is showing. One of my motor bearings started to fail. Now I have to learn to dig a little deeper in my Senton. Great vid!
Hi there. Thanks for the great feedback. You can theoretically change the bearings in the motor although not tried it on these. Hope you get it sorted.
@@PeteWylieRC I found another vid on it. Not that hard to do. Just realizing now if you bash an Arrma long enough and hard enough things with break! Lol
@@DrDurango15 Ah cool. I did do it on one of my motors of another brand and was just a bit tricky to get the old one out because rusted in. Good luck :-)
Great information. Really love that you mentioned the loctite on the motor plate screws and the grease under the power assembly. I bent my motor plate today and it chewed up my stock plastic gear.
The installation and removal of the motor unit is incredibly annoying. Where I bash out here in the desert the sand gets all up underneath it and into the gear box and makes it a huge pain to install and remove it plus all that sand in your gearbox is terrible. Great tips definitely earned the sub
Hi there. Yeah I think that the loctite is a must on that sliding motor mount. It's a shame that they stopped making the one with the fixed positions. It's also a shame that the gearbox isn't sealed at the bottom as it's obviously a place where the dust van get in. I've not tried them but I've seen aftermarket motor plates which may be stronger. I did bend the stock one too but just hammered it flat again. Many thanks for your great feedback and the sub. Very much appreciated 😁
Y,jj*
Great tutorial, well done 👍 This will be a big help to people new to the Arrma lineup. I will say that I prefer the adjustable motor mount though, much finer adjustment for more precise gear mesh. With the pre-set mount, even a slight bend in the mount and the mesh will be off, with no way to adjust it (short of bending back the mount).
Hi there. Yeah that's a good point about the motor mount. I have had the mount bend so I needed to hammer it flat. It seems that they discontinued the one with the set holes anyway. Many thanks for your great feedback 😁
@@PeteWylieRC Yes, they all come with the adjustable mount now (I know this is an older video). I ended up going with the M2C motor mount/chassis brace combination - expensive but fully adjustable and eliminates any flexing in the chassis!
@@jerryvolpini7987 they both sound like worthwhile upgrades. Thanks for the info 😀
Great tutorial from my guru. That should hold better now that you've got fixed pinion position on the motor plate. Keep safe and well😉😁👍
Haha, I don't think I've been called a guru before. I've been called a few other things! Hope this helps with your Arrma's. Have you got them yet? Many thanks for your comments my friend 😁
@@PeteWylieRC Hi Pete ( my guru ) oh yes, both my son and I, now have Arrma Typhon Mega ( the slower ones, I know, but still learning trigger and wheel radio gear ) All we need now is to be let out so that we can go buggy bashing! Your Arrma videos have been invaluable, big time ! I'm still working on my Carisma SCA-1E Range Rover, not happy with the spray painting, got what appears to be stretch marks in the bodyshell, it looks like stress marks, but the importer seems to think it maybe a paint reaction, if so, then I'll either have to paint killer the whole body and start again, or even buy another body shell. Not sure at the moment, but spent hours and hours so far, grrrr!
Good job,jobbed mate 👍 I’ve never actually changed a spur gear so this will come in very helpful if and when 👊🙂
Hi there. Well it's good to know how to get in there. Also a good idea to make sure that everything is secure in there. Many thanks for watching my friend. I see that you have a new video up. I'll have a look when I finish work 😁
Great content as always. Could you let me know what grease/lubricants you use for your arrmas? I’m going to be relying heavily on your videos for my Big Rock’s first strip down and want to make sure it goes back together in top condition.
Hi there. Well I'm not really an expert on products like that. I think people mainly use a general purpose engineering grease. I'm using some LM2 grease in the bevel gears and it seems fine. Inside the diffs I'm using 20000cst silicone oil. In the shocks is something like 600cst. You don't need grease on the spur gear/pinion. Not sure if this helps. Good luck with the maintenance 😁
@@PeteWylieRC Cheers. Really useful info. Looking forward to tinkering. 👍🏽
really useful tutorial to help open this motor differential and close it knowing "where that screw was supposed to go", thank you! I was just wondering where can I buy this useful spur gear, or is it original?
Many thanks for your great feedback. I'm not sure what you mean by the useful spur gear? If you are meaning the motor plate with set hole positions then it's not available anymore ☹️
I don't know the reason, but I can tell Arrma has designed rear to have 2 slipper pads while front to have only 1. The front side of my clutch had good amount of friction, while rear was way too stiff. Replacing a slipper pad on the front (which worn out a bit) with one of 2 rear ones (which still looked like new) made them balanced more evenly.
Ah ok that's interesting. I know that on my 4wd Tamiyas without a clutch it's the front bevel gears that break first. I think that the strain on the front gears is more under braking than the strain on the rear gears under acceleration. I think that is probably the reason for the difference. Many thanks for the info :-)
If you take the little red wrench like thing and insert it into the output shaft then roll the car/truck it will wind the screw in or out depending which direction you roll.
Hey great tip. I've not tried that but I'll have a go next time I'm doing maintenance. Many thanks indeed 😁👍👍
Appreciate the vid really informative, not used to working on Arrmas so this was helpful👍
I hope it's helpful. Many thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated 😁
Hi Pete. Great maintenance video, thanks! Someone recommended installing a 15T pinion in the Senton 3S BLX to improve acceleration if not concerned with top speed. I'd also prefer longer run times and cooler running so I'm thinking the 15T. What are your thoughts - should I stay with the 20T stock pinion or change it to a 15T? Thanks for your advice. Saw in another video that you had changed your Senton from 20T to 15T so I got my answer. Cheers!
Ah yes as I was saying before I think that the 15t for general bashing is great. Still really quick on 3s. Thanks for your feedback 👍
Hi mate! Where do you get that beautiful red engine mount? Looking on Modlesport UK, they only do an upgraded version but not with the difference gear holes. 👍
Hi there. Oh that motor mount with the set hole positions got discontinued unfortunately. You can only get the sliding mount now. Just make sure to use threadlock so the motor doesn't move in use. Thanks for watching 😀
@@PeteWylieRC Ahhh darn it! I will have too try that once my Senton arrives, what's the difference between the standard one and the upgraded one that you can get?
@@LordKingPotato I believe that the upgraded one is stronger. It is possible to bend the standard one if you drive it into walls at full speed or land it badly from extreme height. I've not upgraded any of mine yet.
Very insightful as always Pete!
Hi there. Yeah this is one that I thought would be useful to people and it's picked up quite a lot of views so I guess it was! Thanks for your support 😁
@@PeteWylieRC No problem Pete!BTW thanks for the sub!
A rock got stuck between my motor and shaft. When you remove the drive shaft by pulling spring back I see the small black cup left of clutch. Does that just slide off? Part # ara311033 mine is melted and grinder up. Or do you have to remove clutch guard to install
Hi there. Yeah that cup just slides off the drive shaft. It's not entirely necessary to make the car work as I it's missing on one of mine. Thanks for watching 😀
Thanks Pete great video I have just done mine so I will be out testing soon thanks again for your help...WILL
Glad it was helpful. Hope yours is ok now. Many thanks indeed for your feedback. Much appreciated 😁
Thanks for nice video so I can fils my Big Rock can't wait to drive it🌞🙏
Many thanks for your kind feedback. Very much appreciated and hope you get it fixed 👍👍
At 10:30 timestamp on the video, what is the black cap you put over the red piece? I believe i need one of those. Thanks for the tutorial!
Hi there. I'm not sure what that bit is called but it was in there when I started. I don't think it's essential to make the car work if yours is missing. The spare part you need if you want one is ARA311033. Bit pricey as it comes with a couple of clutch bits. Thanks for watching 😁
Awsome video..very detailed...just upgraded my 3s to a 20t also...😎
Many thanks for your great feedback. Much appreciated 😁
Mine did the rear drive shafts first run out , the diff ring and drive gear the second outing , had no adjustment in the clutch slipper as there was no tension spring in it , so it was either on full send or with a slightly undone adjustment it would not drive at all , got on to the Horizon main distributor in the UK and they've sent me all the parts needed under warranty as it was a Quality control issue
That's interesting. I've not had much bother with any of my 3s cars. The spur gears wear out eventually but they last quite a while. Also there are the things that need threadlocking that I covered in some other videos. Hope yours is more reliable with the new bits. Many thanks for the info 👍
The fixed mounts are generally not cut for proper mesh. I know the 15t is too tight. I think they just need to do a plastic insert like traxxas does.
Hi there. It seemed about right to me. I just like the fact that it won't slip out of place. Haven't seen the Traxxas thing. The only Traxxas I have has the standard sliding plate. Thanks for your comments 😀
@@PeteWylieRC basically the way traxxas does it is a plastic insert that has holes for the gear option. That way it can be solid when you use traxxas supported gear options or just take it out if not.
@@dylanwhite6539 Ah right, clever idea.
Hey there my RUclips friend, I've also got the "Arrma Big Rock Crew Cab 3S, and I love it Big time fella.
Keep us up to date on any other Arrma Big Rock videos please mate. 🙏
Hi there. Thanks for your feedback. Glad you are enjoying your Big Rock. I've done a fair few videos with the 3s Arrma cars I have. I did one recently with the Big Rock and my mates Kraton 6s. Thanks again 😁
Ooooooooooooo man ive been trying to work out what that wing nut was for hahaha ... Its in the rebuild kit and in my exploded diagram..however ive only ever oulled my skipper apart twice.. once for pinion and other just to check the pads... Ive never had any issues tightening mine up bit it does coem loose eith out loctite... Is it supposed ro uave that wing nut in the 4s slipper as one never came out of mine? 😮
Hi again. Yeah the latest 4s cars which are the version 2 have got that little plastic wing nut. Not sure about the original version. Hope you got it all sorted. Like you say a bit loctite is good if yours doesn't have the plastic nut :-)
@@PeteWylieRC yeah I did get it sorted thankyou haha turns out it was all good It just needed some maintenance and that wing nut 😅👍 Loctite was apparently just doing a good job on its own 😄
I bought one of these and the bearings on the motor has gone, I bought it a year ago and all we have been doing is buying spur gears I bought and steal one and it lasted 5 runs maybe ran it 20 times maybe. On the last spur gear I needed to straighten the faceplate so had to take the pinion gear off and forgot to do grub up on the pin gear when I put it back together, that killed the motor bearing, steel spur and pin gear. Oh boy, that mistake is costing me.
Hi there. Ooh sounds like you've had a fair few problems. I did have the motor pack up on the Senton which got replaced on warranty. The one on the Granite went after about 2 years of being hammered to death. I haven't been going through spur gears very much. They do wear out eventually but I think each car has only had one replaced. Is your slipper loose enough to protect the gears? In your other comment you are asking about the faceplate. Are you meaning the motor plate with the set holes? If so then they stopped making it unfortunately. Was that what you were asking? Cheers
Hi friend, do you face issue bevel gear & differential gear replacement ? The tooth of the diff gear & bevel gear become damaged (saw it in another youtube review). I would like to purchase Senton V3 blx , and now doing research for this Rc car
I have done a series of videos about maintenance on the Senton including the bevel gears. There is an unboxing video and a review video and they cover most of the bits of the car. Also check out my Big Rock unboxing which does a summary of things to check.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you!!
Many thanks for your feedback :-)
What kind of grease did you use to keep the dust out of the slipper clutch? Also have you ever tried velcro? If not do you think the grease is still better than the velcro? Ive been running my Vorteks here in Arizona and the dirt is extremely fine. It gets everywhere but luckily none has gotten into the motor assembly YET..
Hi there. I'm just using some standard LM2 grease that I had and it seems to work fine but I'd imagine that a slightly thicker grease would be better at staying put. I did see someone doing the velcro thing but I have not tried it myself. Does look like it works but maybe velcro with grease on would work even better? I will try that next time I have one of these apart. Many thanks for watching and commenting :-)
@@PeteWylieRC great info and thank you for the quick reply!
Great vid👍i tried adjusting slipper clutch on my senton blx but the 2mm hex screw wont loosen or tighten? Any ideas? Thanks
It should loosen if you try hard enough. I don't think you will break anything by using a bit of force!
When I tighten mine down it's tight...BUT it loosen up where I can see the spring and the little brass part and cap the spring touches are inside spur...need help!!!
Using new slipper plate and hub set and new spur
I think my slipper might be to tight. It came loose. I re tightened it using the roll on the floor method. But I think j went to far as the next pack thru my granite, the rear diff starting making a clicking sound
Ooh dear, better get it apart to see what happened. Hopefully nothing expensive!
I bet it was the outdrives
I keep breaking the rear plate at the splines on mine, I've changed it twice so far and I took it apart to change the spur gear and notice it's cracked. I wish they made an upgraded one that was steel and not aluminum
Oh right that's odd as I've not had that problem and I've got 4 of the 3s cars and also a 4s car. Don't know what to suggest really but hope you can get it sorted 🤞 Thanks for your feedback 👍
Where did you get that motor mount?
Oh that was the stock one that came with the version 2 Arrma 3s cars. I'm afraid that they stopped making it after that.
Thanks for making the video dude it helped me out a lot.
Glad it helped. Thanks for the feedback :-)
Perfect Video as everytime. Great. Thanks a lot.
Many thanks indeed for your nice feedback. Much appreciated 😁
I tightened mine up before removing to see how loose it was. It was almost 3 turns before it went tight. Maybe factory settings are too loose? People say rule of thumb is quarter turn
Yeah I think it's difficult to know if it's too tight but you'll know if it's too loose because you'll hear it slip as you accelerate. Obviously one way to find that it's too tight is if the gears strip when the wheels get stuck! I've done mine with the 1.5 turns loose and they've all been ok.
Mine was 2 turns
What motor plate are you using? Brand name and part number would be great.
Thanks Bob
Hi there. Oh I'm afraid that Arrma stopped making that part. It was standard equipment on the 3s range before they changed to the one with the variable position. Sorry I can't be any more helpful. Thanks for watching 😁
My slipper clutch is factory set. I am ripping thru rear diffs. Would loosening it help prevent that from happening?
Yeah in theory the clutch should slip before the gears strip. I've only just had to replace the diff housing on my Granite and I've been hammering it to death for a couple of years. If you loosen it too much then you will hear it screeching all the time so you need to find a happy medium. Thanks for watching 😁
Just changed my sour gear on the vorteks for a steel and when I’ve put it back together my drive shaft doesn’t turn when I free roll like yours. Any idea ?
Ooh not sure. Is the mesh ok between the spur and pinion? Also is the clutch back together ok? You can test it by hand like I do in the video.
hi pete, i just need one of those US GRIP BELTS... BUILT IN THE USA BY THE USA... lovely.... pete i have purchased a Arrma Senton 3s V3 , not just because of your video , but i do trust in you... i think its a great 3s budget car...50mph.... also are you able to look at the: Absima Assassin 6s... its german but i guess made in china.. i do own one if you want to borrow it..? its big, fast and so far reliable plus cheap.. i would love you to do a review on it... please....
Ah cool. I'd recommend the inner fender set for the Senton as they stop the air from getting under the body so much and also keep some of the dirt out. I did a video review of them. That Absima 6s does look like an epic bit of kit for the money. I always use Absima ESC's to upgrade my Tamiyas and they have been reliable. Thanks for the tip. I will certainly have more of a look and a think about it.... :-)
Great video. Liked and subscribed for future maitaintence
Glad that it was helpful. Many thanks indeed for your feedback and the sub 😁
Another nice video thanks Pete.
Many thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated :-)
How do I adjust the mesh between pinion and clutch. I have a new Typhon 3s and it makes loud clicking/snapping sound constantly. What moves to be adjusted. I was thinking the gears might be pushed together to tight
Sorry for the delay I didn't see your comment. Have you sorted this out now?
Very helpful video. Thank you👍
Many thanks for your kind feedback 😁
Great video but where can one get the motor plate ? Thank you !!!!
Ah, if you mean the motor plate with the set hole positions then I think that they have discontinued it in favour of the sliding plate. Rather annoying that you can't get it as an option. The part number is AR310874 but I can't find it anywhere now. Threadlock is the only way for us now. Many thanks for your feedback :-)
I found it at Superstition Hobby if you're still looking for one. $13.99 plus shipping
@@bigdeal5394 Thanks !!!!!
I saw on the second time I watched, mine didn't come with the metal plate I have a 3s Senton 4×4
Great video! I just got a typhon 3s and this gives me a idea of how to fix it if it breaks 👍🏁
Hi there. Hope you are enjoying your new RC. Many thanks for your comments 😃
Thanks for these videos!
Thanks for your kind feedback 😁
Bro, u saved my day🤪, thx very much❤
No worries and many thanks for your great feedback 😁
Awesome.where can we get the plate?
Oh the motor plate with the set positions seems to have been discontinued in favour of the sliding one unfortunately. If you threadlock the screws then it shouldn't slide out of place (hopefully)!
@@PeteWylieRC figures. Seemed like a great idea.
thank you, it was very useful !
Many thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated 😁
I have has my big rock for a month now or so and it's great so I got a typhon as soon as I plugged it in and started driving I could feel that it isn't rite at this point I can probably send it back to Amazon but I really don't want to go through that should I do what your doing here or send it back and start over just order a replacement idk
Hers tires are on that big rock? And can it balloon?
Hi. It's actually a Senton with Granite tyres. Yes they do balloon at speed. Thanks for watching 😀
My granite v3 is a week old. No drivetrain issues but wondering why after abit of driving my steering seems to LOCK to one side.? I have to reset it and everything is fine. Is the servo too hot?
Haven't heard of that one. Is it just a stone stuck in the linkage? If you hold it upside down and shake it does it free up?
@@PeteWylieRC it could have been as i was hucking in dirt and rocks I did shake it abit to get the debris out then it was working again. Didn’t think it would have jammed up the linkage but anything is possible
It's the loctite in the motor plates the use of way to much is it melts right onto the shaft then collects dust metals and fibbers that lock onto the bearing causing the failing motors. I've cleaned all my motor inside right away no problems on them
Good information. Many thanks for sharing 😁
So that noise now (when you move your orange big rock) is normal?
Yeah they sound like a bag of spanners. It's just because of the magnets in the motor making it lumpy and the sound it makes in the drive train. It should be easy to turn the wheels however and if it isn't then there might be an issue like mesh being be too tight. Thanks for watching 🙂
@PeteWylieRC thank you for the reoly, getting back into the hobby after 20yrs away. Your videos are brilliant. Having just bought a Big Rock and destroyed the 37T & 13T gears, it's good to find helpful info 🙂
Super helpful, thank you 👍
Many thanks indeed 😁
Thanks a lot, super helpful for us noobs.
Many thanks for the great feedback :-)
I kinda doubt arrma did that but it would be interesting if they did.
i am struggling with my car so much, the slipper tightening screw will not tighten all the way and the car just screams like the gear mesh is too close but its normal, it doesnt make any sense
Sounds like the clutch isn't together properly. Have you tried removing it from the gearbox and testing it like I do at 7:48 in the video. There should be a fair bit of resistance to turn the gear when you hold the driveshaft. You should be able to screw it all together tightly if the screw is threading into the plastic sleeve on the other side ok.
The last two arrma’s that I checked the clutch I believe it was backed off exactly 2 turns from tight. Anyone else notice that?
Great vid ☝️
Many thanks indeed for your great feedback 😁👍
So that noise in the begging is normal? I’ve had mine for one day and it makes that noise while rocking it back n forth
Yeah they sound a bit lumpy like that but the wheels shouldn't be stiff or difficult to turn.
@@PeteWylieRC lmao just pulled mine apart as well I was a little frightened by that sound as well thinking my mesh was off I took a look and it looked fine to me but one thing I noticed is that there was no grease on the spur gear should it be run bone dry like that ? Also I'm wondering how the diffs look I really hope they are greased
Hi, have you got the link for that motor plate? I can’t find it anywhere, Thanks.
Hi there. It's part AR310874 but I can't find it in stock anywhere either. Be worth keeping an eye on eBay to see if one comes up. Otherwise just threadlock on the sliding one and you should be ok.
@@PeteWylieRC cheers thanks, I’m new to Arrma RC and Brushless. So thanks for helpful How to Vid 👍🏻
@@davidturner1211 Glad you found it helpful. As mentioned in the video there are other videos that cover most of the other parts of this truck. Many thanks for your feedback :-)
Can I still get this motor plate if so where from I'm having problems with mesh
Hi there. No unfortunately they stopped making the one with the fixed hole positions. A real shame as it did make life easier. Thanks for watching the video.
What does it mean if my car has like no tourqe out of nowhere it won't do wheelies anymore but it still goes fast it and Arrma Granite Blx 4x4 v3 it doesn't wanna do wheelies
Hard to say without seeing it. Possibly the motor or ESC has gone a bit dodgy. Presumably you've tightened the clutch. Might be worth contacting Horizon?
@@PeteWylieRC hey thanks for responding quick bro I fixed it this morning and held off on it but the slipper needed tightened its good again and the protection plan I got on it I will never use it again they fixed it right the first time then after that they only replaced half of the stuff and put a slit in my tire that was NOT there before and drilled out my tie rod ends so it had like twice as much slop I got new tires put on yesterday they're alluminum and are really good for removing the slop and my new tires are coming either today or in a few more days
@@coltonlynn2825 Glad you got it sorted. That plan doesn't sound too good then. I have had good service from the retailer with swapping out faulty parts but haven't asked them to do anything beyond that. Best to do it yourself so you know it's done right. I got that Hot Racing alu pivot ball set which was good for removing the slop like you say.
@@PeteWylieRC I WAS glad I got it sorted to this morning I stripped a diff and then warranty people stripped the the back screw on the skid plate to I can't get it off do you have any Ideas for that ? 😂
Does the slipper need changing after time
Well yes but I run these a lot and they don't need doing very often unless the screw is shaking undone. Mine usually run for weeks or months without issue. Many thanks for watching 👍👍
I have a typhoon 3s. I can move my motor side to side in a circular movement. Is that normal?
No I'd say that something needs tightening up.
@@PeteWylieRC It was the radiator fins 😄
@@andreasjonsson8075 Oh I see. Yeah that's fine 😁
Do you have a link to the old motor mount w set positions?
I'm afraid that they stopped making it unfortunately. I've not had a problem with the sliding mounts after I threadlocked them.
@@PeteWylieRC also when I went fully tight on slipper adjustment screw, 1.5 turns back and I can still not even close to move it.
3 or so turns and it slips, but still feels really stiff
@@PeteWylieRC I ended up going with that but when I push the car around, it feels so hard to move. And noisy. I can't recall if it was this bad when I purchased it 5 days ago or not, but I do remember thinking it was a noisy car. I just can't seem to get it to work right and it's my first electric car. Is there any possible way if you had time I could pm you on Instagram or facebook?
@@kl0udykl0ud55 If you remove the motor so it isn't meshed with the gears at all, is it free to turn. It will be sort of notchy as it snaps to the magnets but it shouldn't feel stiff. I did have a motor that seized up and they replaced it under warranty.
I am having trouble to slide the power module back in.
Double check that there is no grit or anything in the slots on the chassis and on the underside of the power module. Might need a bit of a wiggle to get it back in.
Thank you SIR !
No worries. Thanks very much for watching 😁
I've put my slipper together properly, but it just slips when I go to try and drive I'm very confused and flustered?!?!
Hi. I can't really think what's gone wrong. Are all the parts definitely together correctly and screwed up tight enough?
Do you still check comments on here I had a question
Hi. RUclips doesn't always alert me to new comments for some reason so sorry I missed your question. What was it you were asking?
What bummpers you got buddy?
Hi. This is basically a Senton but with a Big Rock body and Granite wheels so the bumpers are the Senton ones.
A link for the faceplate?
Where can I get that motor plate can’t find one.
I think that they have discontinued it in favour of the new sliding one. Maybe a second hand one on ebay. Otherwise make sure to use threadlock with the screws on the sliding mount and it should be fine.
Where did you get that color from
Tamiya PS61 metallic orange backed with silver. Thanks for watching 😀
IMPORTANT NOTE
The steel spur SHOULD COME WITH ONE INCLUDED SLIPPER DISC.
The most annoying thing in the world, when you order upgrades and they don't fit directly, and even worse when it is because YOU NEED MORE PARTS TO DO SO...
Oh I did not realise that. That is rather annoying as you say. Thanks for the great info :-)
What front and rear bumpers are those
Hi. This is basically a Senton with a Big Rock body. The bumpers are from the Senton.
I picked burnt sienna for my Rock..upload soon.
Sounds good 😁
you helped me a lot! Can i get the ARRMA Code of the Motor plate pls? I neede this one :D
Hi there. Many thanks indeed. Glad it was helpful. Unfortunately they stopped making the motor plate with the set holes which is a shame. The motor plate with the sliding holes is ARA311106
@@PeteWylieRC Shame, does the plate also fit with the gear because the original doesn´t fit. :(
Hi. Sorry I'm not quite sure what you are asking. I don't really know much beyond what I did in the video because I haven't bent any motor plates so I haven't swapped any out after this.
@@PeteWylieRC I mean, does the Slipper Clutch fit with the Motor plate? Because at mine, the distance between the Slipper Clutch gear and the motor gear is too much and I can't adjust it, because of the motor plate. :( Did you know what I mean?
Great vid as always. Does anyone know if Arrma have a UK customer service phone number? I've emailed them and just get an auto-response saying to email a .de address? Our friends over the pond seem to call and be dealt with.
Cheers guys.
Many thanks for your kind feedback. I don't know about a customer service number. When I had issues I contacted the retailer (Modelsport) who were quite speedy in resolving it.
What’s the parts number for that
Which part? I was pretty sure I'd put the part numbers up on screen as I mentioned them.
good content
Many thanks for your feedback :-)
Can you drop a link for that plate please 😅
Hi there. I'm afraid it seems that they have discontinued the plate with the fixed positions. You just need to use the one with the sliding mesh and make sure you threadlock the screws. Thanks for watching 😀
Yea I just ask Amazon they said send it back we will send you a new one bc I was like I have big rock which is same truck and I can tell something is wrong and that I barely ran it like 30 ft and shut it off. I don't feel as the customer I should have to tear this car apart already. 😢
Yeah might be dodgy electronics so if they are saying to send the whole thing back then that's good. Hope they get it sorted for you :-)
Can you link to the shocks
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283387294074?hash=item41fb32f17a:g:lMkAAOSwHMJYLnYG
Please Sir Make A One Video Rc Car Chevrolet Colorado 1/24 FMT24 Change Servo & Receiver. My RC Car Steering Problem Solve Sir 😢😢😢😢
I'm afraid I don't have that car but thanks for your comment 👍
Danke
Many thanks for watching 😁👍
New to RC but anyone know why you hear a ripping squeaking grind noise when on two wheels all out? Obviously I'm beating the shit out of it but what is taking the hit is the question
I'm not sure if I know the noise you mean. I hope someone else can help.
@@PeteWylieRC You ever drive a big rock, have it full throttle, then when you turn and makes a noise like it's about to rip apart? That's the best I can explain it sorry 😞
I'll listen out for it next time 😀
What was the solution?
How do you mean?
I have the same noise in my RS. I saw your video 2 times and I still don’t understand how to fix that. Sorry but I’m total noob
@@supernico5403 Where I'm rolling it back and forth at 0:48 is the normal noise of the gears. You only need to worry if it is difficult to move. It is normal for it to be lumpy like that because of the magnets in the motor.
why don't we lubricate the gears?
It's a good question to which I don't quite know the answer but it does seem common to not lubricate the plastic spur running against a metal pinion. All the other gears get lubricated and I don't see any harm in putting grease on the spur and pinion. I'll try to find out. Thanks for the question
@@PeteWylieRC how many trips does a plastic spur cover?
Usually the only time u will see a metal/plastic gear combo that's greased is inside of sealed diffs. Grease holds sand & dirt which is abrasive... obvi. So then the face of the teeth on the metal gear grind it all down into the plastic gear, almost like a file. Just having a plastic cover over the spur/pinion isn't enough, a lot of dirt *typically still gets in.
@@heleron6221 and a plastic spur with "proper mesh" & no dirt or sand constantly on it... it should last months