Super excited to try this in my granite! I think the battery tray won’t be a problem, since the battery holder on that model is sitting on the rear, not on the front like the big rock. Thanks AJ for uploading this video, it’ll help so many 3s arrma users 😊
I found that elongating The depression in the chassis that's already there like it is on the Mojave chassis helps with installing it and removing it. It can be pretty tight without doing that.
Yeah it seems like some people are able to and some people can't without modifying it. Personally I would do the mod either way because once you get some grit in there and it becomes hard to take out I think not having that extra room is going to be a problem.@@SteveSchmied-vv1pt
I just swapped to the 4S center diff and there was no way it was going in. Saw this tip and lengthen the depression by about 3/4”. It snapped right in without hassle. Great tip here! The one thing that wasn’t mentioned in this vid was moving the driveshaft bearing support up a couple of hex holes. I’m running a HW 3665 motor and it was pushing that support way off center.
@CherryBobombed Yeah some people have managed to get it to fit in but I wouldn't want to try to remove it once it gets some dirt in there and gets jammed up like they do.
Arrma Guru, great step by step, I was eyeing this diff since it came out and now back ordered. Horizon Hobby didn't anticipate the popularity of this diff, even Jennysrc is out of stock of it.
I'm really liking what Arrma are doing at the mo. i have an infraction 3s running 4s with a 22t pinion, fitting centre diff seems like a plan. cheers for the show and info.
Bro! Well done- your video work is incredible well done and it makes working on my big rock a breeze! It’s like have my own personal rc truck tech sitting bench side guiding my every move. Can’t thank you enuff and I really look forward to checking out some of your other vids after I install these mods on my big rock and both of my sons big rocks! Thanks again!!
Im going to be undertaking this in my Big Rock this weekend as Im so sick of slipper issues (culminating in the hex snapping inside my 7075 upgraded slipper, this week, rendering it useless). Its really the only thing I hate about the truck and have just as much fun with it (when its working) as I do my much more expensive rigs. Countersinking drill bits on order !
Re the wing, most opt to fit the rear wing mount & wing from the 4s Outcast, rather than screwing the Vorteks wing directly onto the body. Body dosnt get torn up as much when the wing takes a heavy hit, we also fit the 4s Outcast wing mount/wing to the Granite as well to protect the rear of the body. You do have to cut the rear skirt of the body away to fit around the rear wing mount using this method, no problem though.
I heard that you can put Arrma 4s Mojave arms to the vortex .. can you do a video about that how to connect the arms and the sway bar modification what are the tools that we need
Really cool. I just came back from my local hobby shop to check out this option and here you are posting a video on it at practically the same time. However my Big Rock is a V2 (blue body) with an older slipper clutch design. The input gear has a longer spline because the slipper assembly lacks the nut to secure the slipper plates. Does that mean I need more parts to make this work?
Just buy my Big Rock V3 from me exactly the same as what this guy in this channel has. I also have a rear wing on mine. Check out my channel I have couple videos of the Big Rock I have.
Yeah I'm curious too. I have the Mojave and I just got myself a Vorteks BOOST. I've done some measuring and the center diff module with the 4S motor, it comes down to about 5 inches exactly, and lining it up with the same Vorteks part, even with the 4S motor, it'll fit, just barely though. But with a 3S motor it should be perfect.
I really loved my big rock 3s when I had it after upgrading the diffs for $100, but after one too many slipper clutch deaths and the rear driveshafts blowing up I really gave up. Maybe if they release an actually good v4 with BOTH METAL ring and pinions on the diffs and the center diff I’ll order one.
Do you know somebody at horizon hobby or something? According to the horizon hobby website the center diff and power module is on backorder for months.
10k cst in a center diff of a basher? Way too low of a viscosity! I would put 100k minimum! Maybe even 500k! Being able to pull out the whole assembly makes it easy to adjust the gear mesh with audio cues. Adjusting the mesh with hearing is probably the best way to make sure its sitting good.
@@restinpiecesrc5528Eh....not always. My E-Maxx needs thicker diff oil than my ARRMA Kraton 6s. Especially it's optional center differential. Why? Because there's only 2 spider gears in an E-Maxx, and they're smaller. 4-6s power on those really stresses them, so the thinner stuff is like water to an E-Maxx. 500,000 in an E-Maxx is like 20,000 in a Kraton 6s. I put one million in the E-Maxx's front and rear diffs, with earplug putty in the optional center one.
Actually sure you should not drill it You should have smooth it out and automatically fitting I'll send you a video about it You don't want to drill the chassis
Super excited to try this in my granite! I think the battery tray won’t be a problem, since the battery holder on that model is sitting on the rear, not on the front like the big rock. Thanks AJ for uploading this video, it’ll help so many 3s arrma users 😊
Did you do it? I have a granite and curious about now
Your channel is awesome! Thank you for the informative videos!
Your method of slow and appreciate your work is timeless.
I found that elongating The depression in the chassis that's already there like it is on the Mojave chassis helps with installing it and removing it. It can be pretty tight without doing that.
Great tip! I could not get it in without doing so. Love DoRC and AJ. Thanks!
Yeah it seems like some people are able to and some people can't without modifying it. Personally I would do the mod either way because once you get some grit in there and it becomes hard to take out I think not having that extra room is going to be a problem.@@SteveSchmied-vv1pt
@Mekanikally Yeah it doesn't take much. Maybe a half an inch. You can look at pictures of the updated one and just kind of emulate that.
I just swapped to the 4S center diff and there was no way it was going in. Saw this tip and lengthen the depression by about 3/4”. It snapped right in without hassle. Great tip here! The one thing that wasn’t mentioned in this vid was moving the driveshaft bearing support up a couple of hex holes. I’m running a HW 3665 motor and it was pushing that support way off center.
@CherryBobombed Yeah some people have managed to get it to fit in but I wouldn't want to try to remove it once it gets some dirt in there and gets jammed up like they do.
Arrma Guru, great step by step, I was eyeing this diff since it came out and now back ordered. Horizon Hobby didn't anticipate the popularity of this diff, even Jennysrc is out of stock of it.
Probably sell more diffs than 4s cars, lol
Thank you for doing the testing on this. I can't wait to do this on my Big Rock!
George watch out for that tree great vid as always aj thanks.
Man I have been wanting to do this. But wasn't sure if it would work thank you so much dude your awesome
I'm really liking what Arrma are doing at the mo. i have an infraction 3s running 4s with a 22t pinion, fitting centre diff seems like a plan. cheers for the show and info.
Helpful, informative video. I was going to sell my BigRock before you posted this. Too bad the parts needed are backordered until May of next year!
That’s ridiculous now because all the 3s people doing this conversation the 4s people have to suffer with the car they have broken
Bro! Well done- your video work is incredible well done and it makes working on my big rock a breeze! It’s like have my own personal rc truck tech sitting bench side guiding my every move. Can’t thank you enuff and I really look forward to checking out some of your other vids after I install these mods on my big rock and both of my sons big rocks! Thanks again!!
Looks like it rotates in the turns MUCH better
Im going to be undertaking this in my Big Rock this weekend as Im so sick of slipper issues (culminating in the hex snapping inside my 7075 upgraded slipper, this week, rendering it useless). Its really the only thing I hate about the truck and have just as much fun with it (when its working) as I do my much more expensive rigs. Countersinking drill bits on order !
Re the wing, most opt to fit the rear wing mount & wing from the 4s Outcast, rather than screwing the Vorteks wing directly onto the body. Body dosnt get torn up as much when the wing takes a heavy hit, we also fit the 4s Outcast wing mount/wing to the Granite as well to protect the rear of the body. You do have to cut the rear skirt of the body away to fit around the rear wing mount using this method, no problem though.
Typhon 3S wing looks wayyy better IMO
That's awesome, J.J.🤩 Like always, amazing & educational content...👍🏼 Thanks💯
Wouldn't we want the thicker oil to keep the front wheels from ballooning too much ? This is great so thank you for all the information 👍
Just think how many diff kits arrma are going to sell, one for me for a start
I really do like to learn with you! Thank You!
would like to see this next to the 6s, upvoted!!
Great tutorial ! Was it a good improvement? Should I do my Senton 3s ?
Great video 👍👍👍👍👍
Assuming this mod would work in a typhon3s??🤔
Yes, all the 3S and 4S trucks are basically the same thing just different chassis lengths
I heard that you can put Arrma 4s Mojave arms to the vortex .. can you do a video about that how to connect the arms and the sway bar modification what are the tools that we need
hi, does it not make the drive shaft too long? Thank you, great video
What was cost , would you do it again, did it really make that big enough difference
Really cool. I just came back from my local hobby shop to check out this option and here you are posting a video on it at practically the same time. However my Big Rock is a V2 (blue body) with an older slipper clutch design. The input gear has a longer spline because the slipper assembly lacks the nut to secure the slipper plates. Does that mean I need more parts to make this work?
Anyone?
Just buy my Big Rock V3 from me exactly the same as what this guy in this channel has. I also have a rear wing on mine. Check out my channel I have couple videos of the Big Rock I have.
I want to hear this answer too.
@@Johnnyboy-xc8wv I've tried it. I needed the slipper clutch maintenance kit (just used the nut) and the V3 diff input gear and it works.
@@woutervanwijk4369 thanks bud
I've been waiting for this so long... Does anyone know if this center diff can fit in the short chassis like the granite and the vorteks?
Yeah I'm curious too. I have the Mojave and I just got myself a Vorteks BOOST. I've done some measuring and the center diff module with the 4S motor, it comes down to about 5 inches exactly, and lining it up with the same Vorteks part, even with the 4S motor, it'll fit, just barely though. But with a 3S motor it should be perfect.
@AJJAMStudios I am about to do this upgrade. Now that some time has passed, do you have any additional tips or info?
Not really. It works great in this RC. Thanks for asking.
in my opinion if you want to race or drive it on road it is actually better but in offroad i don't take as much fun as before with the slipper
I really loved my big rock 3s when I had it after upgrading the diffs for $100, but after one too many slipper clutch deaths and the rear driveshafts blowing up I really gave up. Maybe if they release an actually good v4 with BOTH METAL ring and pinions on the diffs and the center diff I’ll order one.
Damn I have never broke a axle yet and run hobbywing and 4s with 22t. What you doing to that poor truck? Lol
@@Johnnyboy-xc8wv it did take a solid 2.5 years to break a driveshaft but once the first one gave out 3 of them went back to back. 3s 2400kv 17t
Do you know somebody at horizon hobby or something? According to the horizon hobby website the center diff and power module is on backorder for months.
As soon as I saw the new parts I ordered two complete modules for upgrading. I can’t get them either now. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios l definitely should of done the same. All of the latest parts from Arma are all on backorder for months. Way to go horizon hobby
I’m just wondering which is tougher? Arrma brand 4s center diff or Hot Racing slipper set?
The slipper should be tougher. The diff has weaknesses in the gear ring. Perhaps they will upgrade that component in the future.
@@AJJAMStudiosthank you good sir!
You think this would work on the vortex
I do.
Did you change the pinion
Will this setup work on the arrma vorteks 4x4 3s blx? TIA!
We haven't tried that one yet, but it should fit. It will definitely make a difference in handling...for the better.
Hey AJ, could you share the model # of that DeWalt drill and make of the red handled driver's? Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving.
Do you feel there is room for the diff module inside of a typhon 3s? Thinking of buying one used and upgrade it later with that differential
Yes. I do think it will fit.
Help! The splines on the socket of the diff don't fit well with my front diff spline. Even when aligned.
Can you define the issue a bit more? Center drive shaft? Drive axles? Where is the issue exactly?
Not to many people don't know this, that center diff take a lot of the stress the rear shafts prolonged time and less change of parts
Will this upgrade work with the typhon 3s?
Yes
Put little piece of paper between gears when doing mesh
That does work. 😎👍
10k cst in a center diff of a basher?
Way too low of a viscosity! I would put 100k minimum! Maybe even 500k!
Being able to pull out the whole assembly makes it easy to adjust the gear mesh with audio cues. Adjusting the mesh with hearing is probably the best way to make sure its sitting good.
Smaller scales run less weight and a lot less power generally, they don't need thicker oils, also smaller tolerances
@@restinpiecesrc5528Eh....not always. My E-Maxx needs thicker diff oil than my ARRMA Kraton 6s. Especially it's optional center differential. Why? Because there's only 2 spider gears in an E-Maxx, and they're smaller. 4-6s power on those really stresses them, so the thinner stuff is like water to an E-Maxx. 500,000 in an E-Maxx is like 20,000 in a Kraton 6s. I put one million in the E-Maxx's front and rear diffs, with earplug putty in the optional center one.
@@Shadows-RCyour right, need at least 500k in that center
Anyone.... I have a M2C motor plate. Would this center diff mod work with their motor plate?
Definitely not. The motor plate and mount for the center diff has completely different dimensions.
Actually sure you should not drill it You should have smooth it out and automatically fitting I'll send you a video about it You don't want to drill the chassis
Wanting to add this to my Outcast v2. Should fit right? I have the v2 without the C Diff. THANKS for the run down here bud!
Glad we could help😎👍