Still my favourite channel for the Arrma Granite BLX Tips and Tricks. This man has helped me out plenty with my Granite BLX, and most likely why I bought one to begin with 🤪 Great video brother 👊🍁✌️
@@sammiller2249 thanx guys, really appreciate the support. Reach out if there are vids on this platform that you would like to see. I imagine I’ll do a full bearing kit on my Granite and Typhon this winter…
Metal diff and plastic diffs are the same, they both strip at the same rate, plastic diffs are composite and not just “plastic” They are filled in with hardeners or reinforced with hard materials such as carbon fiber and other composite materials. So don’t worry, your arrma can last 1 year with those plastic diffs if you take care of them, to reduce the shearing risk loosen the slipper clutch screw, that will make the car handle much better and tolerate breakage during high stress. Also fix the gear mesh contact and just move the motor just a little bit, try to get that pinion - spur gear contact perfect, don’t make it too tight and don’t make it too loose, All you need is 1mm of play in there and that’s it. And by the way tighten that slipper clutch to the point where it is snug, spin the slipper if you feel it too tight, loosen up the screw little by little until you get the perfect feel to it. And don’t forget to put some thick and sticky grease to the diffs and the slipper.
PHILLY!!! I run a big system faster then the 4s Arrma line. I kept the stock plastic gears and a must, upgrade to metal drive shafts. great Video my man!!!👊🤘🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆
Well thanks Sir Syko! Driveshafts are a must. Stock diffs aren t terrible but to run a powerful 4s is dicey! I expect nothing from you. Thanx for watching brother
@@phillybrc that's cool I always loved visiting Canada my family use to go to Niagara Falls an Rice lake... I'm from central Ohio an I wasnt picking just made me wonder A I work with a guy that's originally from up there an my aunt meet a man online an married him an moved up there like 20yrs ago they all live in Calgary
Just rebuilt both my Granite 3S diffs. Lost the front completely (input gear totally worn out) and checked the rear which I’ve done before and was surprised to see the teeth worn to sharp points! Replaced that too. Redid all the bearings. However both diffs are tight in the plastic yolks - I’ve read they flex open under load and would have less binding as a result so shimming yolks, removing shims to make them spin free by hand may allow the mesh to open too much under load… not sure what side to take on this one. Metal yolks might be the move but it’s hard sinking more and more cash into a 3S truck.
I hear ya on the spending money part. It s too damn much! Many like the metal yokes, I have yet to buy a set. I put a to y washer between the yokes to give a touch of play. Trial and error and feel it out
I was considering the full metal diff replacement plus the M2C motor plate & support but it’s over half the cost of the truck in those alone. And I have 2 trucks to do… lol. Might move myself to a 4S v2 outcast and keep my repaired 3S for my youngest who’ll be ready to use it in a year or so. I think the new 4S line driveline should be strong enough for me and the shimmed granites should be ok for the kids on 50%. They’re just so much fun I don’t want to walk away at this point. Just got to make intelligent upgrade & maintenance decisions. Videos like yours really help the dads at home juggling multiple trucks with minimal time so thank you very much for sharing the knowledge!!
@@timmurrayy Thanks for the compliment tim. I appreciate that. The 4s v2 versions seem alot more durable and have more of those durable parts. I couldn t agree more on the spending part of this hobby. The parts cost as much as real car parts sometimes. I think the red motor plate is the weakest part of the truck. I would like buy the m2c motor mount but the rc budget is hurtin right now lol. (I have 3-3sarrmas). Kids (and myself also) love the Granite because it s a flipping machine! My son breaks so much stuff lol.
If the part I buy comes with a new o-ring I will use it and save the old one after cleaning them then putting a light coating of silicone on them just for emergencies . LOL!
Hey my friend! Your videos are so awesome and i really enjoy watching them, as I’ve been using my ARRMA Granite for around 17 days (32 battery packs already lol) i always put your videos to learn tips and how to disassemble and reassemble my Rc car. Huge thanks because the tutorials are flawless. Finally i stripped my stock rear input gear and few teeth on the stock rear diff (i heard a clicking on the car while i was using my ProLine Trencher Tires, not sure if that was the cause of the damage, but anyway) I wanted to ask if for ARA210007 part should i also shim some parts and add washer to the Yokes? I’m sorry if this question is dumb, I’m kinda new in this and there’s no hobby shop where i live. Again thank you for all your videos, you have no idea how much they have helped me to understand not only about mechanics but also about driving skills and general RC world. Blessings my friend, thanks for your time
Ya, of course. No stupid wuestions here. As for shimming, if i understand the question, it depends how the diff feels when it s put together. The shim usually comes on the crown gear(big gear) side. That shims physically “pushes” the crown to mesh with input gear tighter. If it s too tight and feels notchy, remove and put back together, if still notchy, you may want to move the shim to the oppesite side. Since these parts are plastic, application could vary. Make sense? Lol
@@phillybrc much appreciated sir! Blessings for always helping rc community. I decided to purchase the Arrma metal diffs. I’ll be very careful about the tightness of those parts. Also I decided to decrease my ESC punch 1 point (from 3 to 2).
I have tighten all the screws and instantly strip the threads. Does that mean everything is just held in by friction? It's incredibly easy to strip plastic threads
Hey great video thank you very much for the details! How is this holding up? Did you have to move any shims? About to rebuild both gifts right now and didn't want to make any mistakes. Thank you again for your quality content!
Hey! You re welcome! Ya, still running well! Shims kinda vary car-to-car u fortunately. My last 3s Arrma video has my Granite with metal diffs in it. Runs great. Thx for watching
I just got the cnc metal diff gears and I’m really disappointed as the mesh is far too tight. Will adding washers between the yolk’s make the input gear wobble about?
It s hard to say, not likely. You dont want all that resistance either. If it s that tight, take apart and build again. Possibly you missed something. 🤷♂️
@@phillybrc yeah I’ve taken it apart probably 4 times😩 and still too tight. I’m using all new parts as well. New diff case and gears. I’ve added washers and seems a lot better but there seems to be play in the input gear.
Yes, absolutely I do. I don t show that because I don t have them apart in this video…if we are on the same page. In this case, the outer wheel assembly remains in tact. Hope that helps, thanx
@@phillybrc did also questioning this. you use one in 9:05 on the outside of the diff-housing and one in 9:46 in the input-gear. What are the measurement of these? Would be great if you could answer this for me...👍 Thank you!
Ya , definitely possible. Landing on throttle is real bad too. In this case , I re-used bearings and the failed, in turn caused the diffs to grenade. Never again, always new bearings! Thank you.
@@phillybrc oh good thought the metal gears were at fault lol. Yep.i always change them makes sense while were in there doing maintanace. Hopefully theyll last indefinately now.
Diff failed because of the washer shims. END OF STORY!!!! It lets the output shaft move around because the bearings aren't seated tightly anymore. Always buy entire DIFFS... Dont ever piece together! 100 dollars will buy you front and rear metal diffs in their entirety.
Still my favourite channel for the Arrma Granite BLX Tips and Tricks.
This man has helped me out plenty with my Granite BLX, and most likely why I bought one to begin with 🤪
Great video brother 👊🍁✌️
Thanx so much bro. Still love my Granite! Appreciate you always being here!
@@phillybrc we have been connected for a while now, I’ll always be a PhillyB_RC crew member ☝️
Agreed bubbles. He’s very informative and doesn’t just go through the motions with a song overlayed the video.
@@sammiller2249 thanx guys, really appreciate the support. Reach out if there are vids on this platform that you would like to see. I imagine I’ll do a full bearing kit on my Granite and Typhon this winter…
@@sammiller2249 he has helped me with my granite plenty of times. Great channel 👍
Hi mate thanks for this video. I buy my bearings from bearings supplies and try to get Japanese bearings. Much better quality bearings.
@@armandopace6113 Good to know , thanx for the input and thx for stopping by.!
Just finished rebuilding my diffs and I feel proud that I did it and saved a shit ton of money
Freakin awesome, very rewarding right? Doin the maintenance and repairs is a big part of the hobby. Good for you! Thx for watching
Metal diff and plastic diffs are the same, they both strip at the same rate, plastic diffs are composite and not just “plastic”
They are filled in with hardeners or reinforced with hard materials such as carbon fiber and other composite materials. So don’t worry, your arrma can last 1 year with those plastic diffs if you take care of them, to reduce the shearing risk loosen the slipper clutch screw, that will make the car handle much better and tolerate breakage during high stress. Also fix the gear mesh contact and just move the motor just a little bit, try to get that pinion - spur gear contact perfect, don’t make it too tight and don’t make it too loose, All you need is 1mm of play in there and that’s it. And by the way tighten that slipper clutch to the point where it is snug, spin the slipper if you feel it too tight, loosen up the screw little by little until you get the perfect feel to it. And don’t forget to put some thick and sticky grease to the diffs and the slipper.
I really like the 3s lineup from Arrma. Lots of fun and fast!
Absolutely! I think they re a ton of fun. Great value. Thx Chad
Smart idea about the washers on the yokes. I went ahead and bought some HR yokes since the plastic ones alway seem to tight.
Thanx! Ya, it seems to be working for me . I m also considering metal yokes in the future.
So it’s not just me!!! Those stock plastic yokes DO get tight! I don’t tighten them all the way.
@@prehistoricgentlemanbird9131 seems to be working for me!
Yep . Them holes get filled with oil and won’t seat 😂. Same here then I heard squish 👍and it was good
Ya i learned the hard way !
PHILLY!!! I run a big system faster then the 4s Arrma line. I kept the stock plastic gears and a must, upgrade to metal drive shafts. great Video my man!!!👊🤘🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆🏆
Well thanks Sir Syko! Driveshafts are a must. Stock diffs aren t terrible but to run a powerful 4s is dicey! I expect nothing from you. Thanx for watching brother
@@phillybrc Anytime! 🤘
Was wondering where your from... the way you say composite (com-pos-it) really got me wondering lol love your content brother always good...
Lol. I guess there s a couple DIFF-erent ways….sorry, had to. I m from Niagara,Ontario Canada. How about you? And thanx for the compliment
@@phillybrc that's cool I always loved visiting Canada my family use to go to Niagara Falls an Rice lake... I'm from central Ohio an I wasnt picking just made me wonder A I work with a guy that's originally from up there an my aunt meet a man online an married him an moved up there like 20yrs ago they all live in Calgary
Love the detail in the vid
Thanx for watchin!
Just rebuilt both my Granite 3S diffs. Lost the front completely (input gear totally worn out) and checked the rear which I’ve done before and was surprised to see the teeth worn to sharp points! Replaced that too. Redid all the bearings. However both diffs are tight in the plastic yolks - I’ve read they flex open under load and would have less binding as a result so shimming yolks, removing shims to make them spin free by hand may allow the mesh to open too much under load… not sure what side to take on this one. Metal yolks might be the move but it’s hard sinking more and more cash into a 3S truck.
I hear ya on the spending money part. It s too damn much! Many like the metal yokes, I have yet to buy a set. I put a to y washer between the yokes to give a touch of play. Trial and error and feel it out
I was considering the full metal diff replacement plus the M2C motor plate & support but it’s over half the cost of the truck in those alone. And I have 2 trucks to do… lol. Might move myself to a 4S v2 outcast and keep my repaired 3S for my youngest who’ll be ready to use it in a year or so. I think the new 4S line driveline should be strong enough for me and the shimmed granites should be ok for the kids on 50%.
They’re just so much fun I don’t want to walk away at this point. Just got to make intelligent upgrade & maintenance decisions.
Videos like yours really help the dads at home juggling multiple trucks with minimal time so thank you very much for sharing the knowledge!!
@@timmurrayy Thanks for the compliment tim. I appreciate that. The 4s v2 versions seem alot more durable and have more of those durable parts. I couldn t agree more on the spending part of this hobby. The parts cost as much as real car parts sometimes. I think the red motor plate is the weakest part of the truck. I would like buy the m2c motor mount but the rc budget is hurtin right now lol. (I have 3-3sarrmas). Kids (and myself also) love the Granite because it s a flipping machine! My son breaks so much stuff lol.
Thanx for the tips
Love it BBB!
fantastic job bro...keep going😍
Thanx my man!!
If the part I buy comes with a new o-ring I will use it and save the old one after cleaning them then putting a light coating of silicone on them just for emergencies . LOL!
SAME! Makes sense to me! Haha
Hey my friend! Your videos are so awesome and i really enjoy watching them, as I’ve been using my ARRMA Granite for around 17 days (32 battery packs already lol) i always put your videos to learn tips and how to disassemble and reassemble my Rc car. Huge thanks because the tutorials are flawless. Finally i stripped my stock rear input gear and few teeth on the stock rear diff (i heard a clicking on the car while i was using my ProLine Trencher Tires, not sure if that was the cause of the damage, but anyway) I wanted to ask if for ARA210007 part should i also shim some parts and add washer to the Yokes? I’m sorry if this question is dumb, I’m kinda new in this and there’s no hobby shop where i live. Again thank you for all your videos, you have no idea how much they have helped me to understand not only about mechanics but also about driving skills and general RC world. Blessings my friend, thanks for your time
Ya, of course. No stupid wuestions here. As for shimming, if i understand the question, it depends how the diff feels when it s put together. The shim usually comes on the crown gear(big gear) side. That shims physically “pushes” the crown to mesh with input gear tighter. If it s too tight and feels notchy, remove and put back together, if still notchy, you may want to move the shim to the oppesite side. Since these parts are plastic, application could vary. Make sense? Lol
@@phillybrc much appreciated sir! Blessings for always helping rc community. I decided to purchase the Arrma metal diffs. I’ll be very careful about the tightness of those parts. Also I decided to decrease my ESC punch 1 point (from 3 to 2).
I have tighten all the screws and instantly strip the threads. Does that mean everything is just held in by friction? It's incredibly easy to strip plastic threads
Really? That sounds odd. I wonder if you put an excessive amount of diff oil inside? Need some room for the cap.
Hey great video thank you very much for the details! How is this holding up? Did you have to move any shims? About to rebuild both gifts right now and didn't want to make any mistakes. Thank you again for your quality content!
Hey! You re welcome! Ya, still running well! Shims kinda vary car-to-car u fortunately. My last 3s Arrma video has my Granite with metal diffs in it. Runs great. Thx for watching
you said your metal diff failed but you pulled out a plastic diff?
Yes. I showed what failed, then re-purchased a new metal diff. I had the video in progress when my metal diff failed. Does that make sense? lol
same things on pruner battery with brushless motor.Did you change small gear .Great day from Macedonian
Do you know what size is necessary to remove the drive shafts?
2mm
I just got the cnc metal diff gears and I’m really disappointed as the mesh is far too tight. Will adding washers between the yolk’s make the input gear wobble about?
It s hard to say, not likely. You dont want all that resistance either. If it s that tight, take apart and build again. Possibly you missed something. 🤷♂️
@@phillybrc yeah I’ve taken it apart probably 4 times😩 and still too tight. I’m using all new parts as well. New diff case and gears. I’ve added washers and seems a lot better but there seems to be play in the input gear.
The loctite on the driveshaft did cost me a diff. I damaged the screw head trying to get it out. Tryed to drill it out but that didn’t work either.
Inside the half-shaft? That sucks! Ya need loctite there or the axles fall off. Bummer that happened to you
@@phillybrc yes correct. I’m trying a little less loctite next time.
@@frisos3944 ya good call, the slightest coverage of blue loc-tite should do it. Good luck
Next time use lighter to heat up the screwdriver before. It will screw out much easier.
@@P4Andrzej Good idea! Thanks
No thread lock on the outer drive shafts?,these are notrious for flinging wheels
Yes, absolutely I do. I don t show that because I don t have them apart in this video…if we are on the same page. In this case, the outer wheel assembly remains in tact. Hope that helps, thanx
Cool
Sook that he under your spur gear kicks dirt out hih??
The hole in the chassis? Yes, this lets dirt out and doesn t shred your spur gear👍🏻
I just purchased the metal diffs for my typhon 3s ….should I open them up an add shims ?
Should be fine internally, but could use one one the outside, crown gear side
@@phillybrcfinally getting to it, just realized there is one on the crown side before the bearing
Should I add another.
@@345gc8 i ve never seen a second one there yet. I would go with “no”
What size are the washer thanks for telling us
Which washers size you lookin for my friend?
@@phillybrc did also questioning this. you use one in 9:05 on the outside of the diff-housing and one in 9:46 in the input-gear. What are the measurement of these? Would be great if you could answer this for me...👍 Thank you!
@@morrom76 outside diff is 12x15.5x.2mm,arrma#AR70952, the other one is 3mm flat washer. Hope this helps. Thank you!
Thank you, very much!!!! This will help!!!!!!
Its those wheels that kill your diffs the tires are to aggressive .
Ya , definitely possible. Landing on throttle is real bad too. In this case , I re-used bearings and the failed, in turn caused the diffs to grenade. Never again, always new bearings! Thank you.
So when u first upgraded to metal crown and input u decided not to.renew the bearings. Hence why u rebuilt again as the bearings gave up the ghost.
Yep, you know it. I messed up big time. I learned my lesson and i won t donit again! 👌🏻
@@phillybrc oh good thought the metal gears were at fault lol. Yep.i always change them makes sense while were in there doing maintanace. Hopefully theyll last indefinately now.
@@dandyer8351 Ya my fault completely. Thanx Dan
Diff failed because of the washer shims. END OF STORY!!!! It lets the output shaft move around because the bearings aren't seated tightly anymore. Always buy entire DIFFS... Dont ever piece together! 100 dollars will buy you front and rear metal diffs in their entirety.
Washer shims inside the diff?
Will the stock diff guts fit in hot racing differential
Yes. I ve done it in my Typhon. They do have a couple additional spacers to add. I ll send you a link.
ruclips.net/video/DznksreHjKc/видео.html