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Yep . Them holes get filled with oil and won’t seat 😂. Same here then I heard squish 👍and it was good

yo! where do i get this body ?

Are the Treal diff housing holdings up ? Thinking about getting some.

More videos please

Thank you. I've been looking for some info about if you use or how to still use your tower to tower brace with this m2c part. Every other video I've seen has skipped that part. Do you know a good aftermarket tower to tower brace to fit a kraton xl build or fireteam?

Typhon 3s arms, links and shafts?

Shock Tower, CVD, Knuckles Is the essential upgrade for this beast !

Back again visiting is my 4s was going great but now I'm at a complete loss I have tried as much as my knowledge so when I throttle all that does make a noise like the clutch is slipping except a bit more squeaky / hire pitch have open front centre and rear diff they all seem to be sweet and tight any ideas or any response whatsoever would be massively appreciated😊 🔩 keep up the excellent Work man no mucking around simply put and didn't notice before but extremely well-spoken and well-worded🙏✌️

Informative. Thank you sir.

you dont have to shim metal crank like stalk one???

This is good to see how a normal human being replaces an arrma 3s servo. Because when i do it, it feels like a caveman doing brain surgery.

Your video saved me time and aggravation 😅ty

Can you use the shocks for the stock Granite

The springs were too stiff or long for my hyper 7 buggy, i put on rc8 springs to give me proper ride height. Really good shocks for the money, 16mm bore,4mm shaft, bleed cap, bladders, nice fit and finish. Only complaint is no hardware for the top. I made mine on a 3d printer.

needs to be 3-4x wider ! Sick track thoguh

when my car is on even with stiff servo for sterring, I get bell crank movement side to side how do I stop this, I shims th crank but you still have bearing movement???

I get stalk bell crank wobble does this stop it????

Does it backflip as well with the wider arms as with the stock?

Thanks man this is happening to me I was looking at shims but it’s hard to understand why it does that I’ll go rip it off and see if I can’t stop the play ! Ty ty

I think they’re all the same or mostly but I took apart some Amazon OGRC granite shocks and was suprised to see a nice dampener with a nut on top as opposed to a dampener sandwiched with two e clips . Those are the absolute worst design imo , China junk on the Rlaarlo Omni has the e clips and they break all the time . Anyways for $30 some OGRC shocks are legit , big bore whatever they’re called . Totally fit the bill for my granite . The only other thing I’m adding is a center brace for the top and a globact alum steering thingy if I gets bad . Rubber or rings for the turnbuckles keeps em nice and non rattling . I seen dudes using m6 washers but the orange are defintely hands down better imho

Instead of tubing, I use orings. Plus I remove the link rod end and remove the shaft as one unit (remove the bottom cap first)

Metal diff and plastic diffs are the same, they both strip at the same rate, plastic diffs are composite and not just “plastic” They are filled in with hardeners or reinforced with hard materials such as carbon fiber and other composite materials. So don’t worry, your arrma can last 1 year with those plastic diffs if you take care of them, to reduce the shearing risk loosen the slipper clutch screw, that will make the car handle much better and tolerate breakage during high stress. Also fix the gear mesh contact and just move the motor just a little bit, try to get that pinion - spur gear contact perfect, don’t make it too tight and don’t make it too loose, All you need is 1mm of play in there and that’s it. And by the way tighten that slipper clutch to the point where it is snug, spin the slipper if you feel it too tight, loosen up the screw little by little until you get the perfect feel to it. And don’t forget to put some thick and sticky grease to the diffs and the slipper.

What body is that?

Your servo absolutely killed the receiver. The Vorteks has the same parts and it was my first RC a few weeks ago. Lost steering the 3rd day and transmitter wouldn't bind. Tech at HobbyTown finally found the issue and said that those servos have a gyro and the gyro causes the servo and rec to burn out. Solution he did for it was to put in another receiver without gyro (loses AVC but no biggie for me) and I have had 0 issues since aside from my own stupidity.

Where did you get /gow did you make the engine sounds? Very cool

Good video. Where did you acquire the shims from? And, did you apply any grease to the gears prior to closing it all back up? If so, what did you use? Thanks in advance. 😎👍🏼

PhillyB! You’re the man!!! Love it bro!!!!🤘🏆🍻

Thank you very much for this video!

Followed step by step today to install mine on my arrma Vorteks. Thanks for a quality video, my man. Also, just a question. Do you find any benefit/drawback to running without the chassis runners(walls), or did you take them off for install? Thanks in advance!

👎 because of annoying music if thats what ya call it

They need a metal wing I hate plastic wings as well to

Can that bumper fit on notorious 6s v5 blx

Yea aluminum turn buckles is the best that plastic stock sucks and gets beat when u keep tryna screw caps back in

❤❤❤

Thanks a Million!!

Got me a Hot Racing aluminum servo saver with Fix Link steering for Arrma 1/10 Steering from Amazon which it comes with a 23/24/25 tooth spline adapters so for now I'm using the stock servo until I get a new servo and the Hot Racing ATF18MX01 Heavy Duty Motor Mount Arrma 1/10 4x4 3s 4S Blx

Awsome thanks! Fixed my typhon 3s

Well you don't really have to unscrew the screws in the hinges to put the mount on, just undo the 2 screws holding the wheelie bar cushion and then you can just push the wheelie bar down to access the other 2 screws holding the cushion and have enough room to put on the plastic mount or an aluminum mount from hobbypark like I've got

When putting typhon 3s a arms do i need to change the driveshafts?

These videos have been so helpful for my granite build and my vorteks as well! But I have to ask how has the hot racing motor mount held up have you managed to bend it? Thanks brutha!

Nice, I broke my bellcrank and arm running into a tree and I picked up the same Amazon special bellcrank, very detailed instructions.

Very good video. Helped me install a metal diff in my Granite. I do wish you showed how to access the front diff. I'm a newbie, so I'm afraid of just randomly unscrewing things in the front where the steering and servo are. Thanks for showing the hex driver used to get the driveshafts off, i had to buy one special, but it went fine.

You guys need to try Zeee Lipo battery’s they rock

Dude I know these videos are old but all of them are the best info on armma 3s vehicles and have been extremely helpful to me. So I thank you sir 🤘

Loved it. Thank you so much for the demo. 💪🇺🇲🤘

I don’t have the Paw Patrol container but I have a Frozen one just like it. Girl dad. Lol

Great video! I was just installing new tires on my Big Rock and realized how bad the slop was.... not good at all! Did you replace the ends for the steering servo too? Looks like I have a lot of slop down in there too. Edit, nevermind.... I found part 2! Trimming down that ball with a Dremel sounds challenging. How long did it take for you do dl that? Thanks man!

Better steering is only without servo saver

isn t there slop in the steering rods going into the bellcrank that adds to sloppy steering to??

Do you know what size is necessary to remove the drive shafts?