6:48 Best way to think about it, an (ideal) open differential will always have the same amount of torque going to both axles, always being a 50:50 torque distribution. If e.g. the fronts can only take 10 Nm of torque before slipping, then the rear will also only get 10 Nm of torque, any extra you try to send will just go to spinning the wheels faster (increasing their rotational energy) rather than pushing the car forward. Any kind of locking effect will allow the side with more grip to receive extra torque vs. the side with less grip via the slipping. With RC diffs using varying weights of fluids, it's most similar to a viscous differential in cars, the axle that slips kinda tries to drag the non-slipping axle up to its speed, or conversely the axle with more grip is trying to hold the slipping axle back. The amount of extra torque transferred to the non-slipping axle should* be a function of the "weight" rating of the fluid and the RPM difference between the axles, i.e. with a heavier fluid and higher and higher RPM difference the higher grip axle should receive more and more extra torque. With something like a 20 million weight fluid, where you can barely get the diff to rotate at all, you can get nearly 100:0 torque distribution when doing a wheelie. *It is in traditional viscous diffs with plate stacks, but I haven't extensively studied the effect in RC diffs, nor the heat response with added slip.
The more I'm getting into RC, the more I'm using your videos as a resource! Great vid my man. Having issues with the slipper on my Outcast 4S and had to research the basic understanding of how that works. 👍
Me to having issues WITH my slipper Clutch on my my 4s kraton when i drive on grass or GRAVEL but not cement will have drive my 4s kraton in a big school yard when i get my Truck out of shop getting New gears put in the back of Truck way in THE back wete i have to take the cover off take the the Red pole off the pole underneath thats under the red pole were u get to the slipper Clutch to tighten and loosen THE Engine and unscrew the bottom metal or hard plastic not sure which it is to get at the gears
If you jump, slipper is so helpful! When the tires stop because you suddenly hit the ground whole you're gassing it she'll save your gearing from stripping as well as the other soft parts.
My brother recently replaced the slipper clutch in his Slash with a center diff. A slipper clutch works well for a racer or on-road car, but it doesn’t work that great for bashing or general joining around off-road. His Slash handles much better with the center differential than it ever did with the slipper clutch. An extra plus is the steel spur gear. You can’t have a metal spur gear on most slipper clutches, because there’s too much heat generated by the friction. Therefore, you need to use a plastic spur gear, which strips teeth extremely easily in something like a Slash. My brother’s Slash is 3 months old and he’s stripped 4 of the plastic spur gears in that time.
I always look at it this way. Slipper/center spool for low-traction surfaces (dirt, clay) Center diff for high-traction surfaces (pavement, carpet) Locked slipper/spool is basically full-time 4wd. Center differential is AWD. AWD is fantastic when the traction is good, but not so much when it isn't. Full-time 4WD is fantastic when the traction is low, but will bind up the drivetrain when traction is high. This is why in full-scale vehicles like the Jeep Wrangler that have full-time 4wd and no center differential, when you're driving on the road, your 4wd is disengaged. You only engage the 4wd when traction is low. But in a vehicle like a modern crossover SUV or Subaru, AWD is active all the time and rarely is there an option to lock the center diff to create a full-time 4wd drivetrain. Some newer vehicles are starting to include this feature, like the new Landrover Defender. It can lock it's center diff which changes it from an AWD vehicle to a 4wd vehicle. If you're running your buggy on carpet, go center diff. If you're running your buggy on clay or dirt, run the slipper.
Remeber the most important thing, a slipper cluch it consjmes itself, it is going to go bad over time, a well kept diff (obviously if not abuse or used costantly to race and put under lot of stress) may last very long and every part may be swapped to repair
Running a center diff in high grip is bad for your transmission, also on power the steering becomes dependant on how much the diff is moving so the amount of steering you have varies massively. You can also cook the center diff oil and cook the front tyres
For me on my 4wd mod buggy outdoor its a center diff for sure with about 60k or less slippers are to touchy to drive on inconstant surfaces . Indoor on Turf or carpet gota say trying both the slipper clutch is much better smoother more forward drive /traction.
Nice comparison! But what about some words about dual slipper clutch systems like the Arrma 3s ones, where they can slip either side individually, so it acts more like a clutch
In your (or anyone's ) opinion what is best for light bashing in loose dirt and gravel with minor grass, a slipper clutch or a center differential. What wt fluid is best for offroading if I did use a center diff? I am running a Traxxas 4x4 vxl Slash. I do racing on both asphalt and dirt tracks as well as light bashing. Off note, I know that the Erevo uses a center differential as opposed to the slash which uses a slipper clutch. The erevo is great for offroading and light racing and has great traction on dirt. Should I put a center diff in the slash or will it not make any real difference?
@@RazorRC Thanks! It would help me out alot! More specifically how to measure and determine the size of a stock motor without the info on it. And also how to decide a good kv for a certain type truck and what you want in terms of low end, high end, speed and torque or a good number for both. Thanks Razor! 👌
Slipper clutch, also known as a back-torque limiting clutch in the real world (popular on high-horsepower motorcycles and supermoto). Though we use it less for back-torque in RC and more as a viscous coupler to limit shock loads to components.
Great stuff bro I just learnt a lot thx to you 🙏🙏👊 it does not mean I am not scared to touch these things it just means I know what is waiting for me now when I have to 😂😂🙈 I am debating whether or not to strip my new senton 3s slipper to check all is ok before I even run it! Sounds like madness to me as a noob but think I will need to. Do you strip down new rc cars to check em all over before you run yours? This is my 1st proper one and I wanna look after it proper 🙏🙏👊
Hi mate that video was very educational and well explain great video. I run slipper clutch and a centre differential on my X maxx. It's saved me a lot of differentials and money. Best of both 👍🦘😁😁
The drive shaft connected to the sper gear will always drive at full power. A diff ONLY bleeds power from the planetary gear side. Any diff always has a drive side. Differential 101
I am having trouble finding a 50t or 46t spur for that center diff. Any idea where to look. Checked both my hobby shops today. One of them said they didn’t have anything, the other said they don’t make one which I find hard to believe. I am scootering the internet at the moment
This is an older video, but I want to ask anyway. My Revo has a front and rear diff, and a slipper clutch. But I’ve seen a center diff conversion that’s out there and I’m interested in but have no idea how to do it? It looks like is require an entirely new transmission casing, and I don’t know much more than that except for the ones that do have a center diff can add an upgraded braking system. Any help?
So I have a sc6 amd a sc5. With 5k oil in the diff. With the sc5 I have a problem with on power corner exit. It wants to loop out every time I hit the gas coming out of the corner. Being that u are a racer I figured I would ask. Would u go with a lighter fluid or a thicker fluid in the diff?
Subbed subbed subbed man ur great at explaining to newbies well I’m getting back into racing rc after 15 yrs but this is my first electric car I’m a nitro guy wow times and technology have changed lol but I’m getting back into it like a newbie till I’m up to speed with stuff I got the arrma typhon 3s with a sidewinder 4 esc instead of factory one and I just put 20t pinion instead of 16t factory
Man you got back in starting at the top! That car is awesome, I had a similar story as I got out at a young age, but never lost the interest. But when I decided to get back in, I bought a huge lot with a Revo and a T-MAXX and many extra parts. The Revo was in far better shape, so that’s still what I drive. And it’s an OLD design. I love that Arrma typhon it’s just out of my price range. An actual bulletin though!
Hey man, any common reason why a center diff would start slipping? I've been having issues with my notorious 6s for a long time. I even swapped it out for a brand new one and nothing changed.
Should probably trouble shoot the grinding for damage and if nothing observed reassemble and set the clutch. Typically I will turn while pushing RC forward until wheels grab and leave it there with some blue loctite
Great video! I cannot find a weight for the center diff build? There is no instructions on the package or on the ae site? How did you know how much fluid to put in?
Common belief the plastic gears reduce 9 grams per diff. Also a common belief the center gear diff with plastic gears, has less rotating mass then the slipper.
The diff shown here actually has plastic gears in it and weighs the same as the slipper. IIRC, my metal geared diff weighed 9 grams more than my plastic geared one.
Is there a way to put power into the wheel on the ground and not into the wheel off the ground when I free wheel it on my centre diff in my hsp flying fish lowrider rc car
I have a 2S car with a slipper. It's a weak part that slips uncontrollably, the friction material shows no wear but it slips badly nonetheless. So now I have locked it completely, no issues with the rest of the drivetrain. Other slippers might work better since this car is a cheaper Chinese made rc but it was garbage so I had no choice but to lock it and it works great that way. Unless they use real friction materials these slipper clutches are useless and lead to issues.
What about power handling capabilities? I’m looking at getting a Tekno 410.3 SCT powered by either a hobbywing xr8 (either plus or sct) with a hobbywing 3660 g2 3200kv motor (fully sensored install), or a Tekin RX8 Gen 3 on a Tekin Pro4 HD 3,000kv motor (fully sensored install)... it’ll mostly be a basher and I’ll race with it off and on maybe yet I’ll be using 2 different packs... Gens Ace 2s 7200mah 70c continuous, and a Gens Ace 3s 7600mah 60c continuous... the race pack would be a Protek 2s LiHV 8500mah 100-120c continuous... how would you set up the driveline?
Razor RC.. Thanks! and what about 3s? Idk if the Tekno 410.3 SCT has a slipper clutch option available from factory or even aftermarket (unless you got clever yourself with sourcing parts already made and mod those or really get clever and design one entirely yourself)
What fluid would you recommend in a slash 4x4 center diff for bashing 2s? 3s? I may get a center diff with my slash 4x4 for options if wanna race or bash and depending on the feel I want...
And I’m saying 10k because that’s gonna give you faster acceleration and more wheelies. Ik your slash doesn’t really do wheelies so you will get all of your power instantly
Unfortunately, a lot of this information is incorrect, You're referring more towards old-school Tamiya cars, modern day rc cars have moved on from this mechanism.
@RazorRC I think you should specify what car you're talking about. All cars are different and need attention to detail. Traxxas have a completely different setup to Losi and Tamiya. You never mentioned gear ratios and how that can affect a slipper clutch. I think you could of put a bit more thought into this video. It seems a bit rushed. Anyway, I hope this helps buddy, look forward to seeing some more content.
@@thehomefront1905 I literally say at 0:33 this is an Associated B74. And gear ratios are irrelevant whether you use a slipper clutch or center differential, you would not want to change the ratio if you changed between the two.
@RazorRC This is my point, you're not specifying what's what, you're assuming people already know when most don't. You're much better off doing another video and saving your youtube fans, I feel you owe it to them.
Sound wasn’t clear or words spoken were all blended into each other. Beginning was no real well worded explanation on how the slipper worked. Just very general. Extremely general. Maybe toward the end it kinda gave some decent points. I would have created an outline of slipper info and separate outline on diff so that it would be more fluid and organized which will make it more understandable. Thanks for posting tho. Will be looking for more of these. See if there is a good one out there.
Big ol IDIOT, he is not doing a nail commercial he is helping to educate people. What a Fn DICK to say something like that. No wonder society is so Fxxked up now days people like you
6:48 Best way to think about it, an (ideal) open differential will always have the same amount of torque going to both axles, always being a 50:50 torque distribution. If e.g. the fronts can only take 10 Nm of torque before slipping, then the rear will also only get 10 Nm of torque, any extra you try to send will just go to spinning the wheels faster (increasing their rotational energy) rather than pushing the car forward.
Any kind of locking effect will allow the side with more grip to receive extra torque vs. the side with less grip via the slipping. With RC diffs using varying weights of fluids, it's most similar to a viscous differential in cars, the axle that slips kinda tries to drag the non-slipping axle up to its speed, or conversely the axle with more grip is trying to hold the slipping axle back.
The amount of extra torque transferred to the non-slipping axle should* be a function of the "weight" rating of the fluid and the RPM difference between the axles, i.e. with a heavier fluid and higher and higher RPM difference the higher grip axle should receive more and more extra torque. With something like a 20 million weight fluid, where you can barely get the diff to rotate at all, you can get nearly 100:0 torque distribution when doing a wheelie.
*It is in traditional viscous diffs with plate stacks, but I haven't extensively studied the effect in RC diffs, nor the heat response with added slip.
The more I'm getting into RC, the more I'm using your videos as a resource! Great vid my man. Having issues with the slipper on my Outcast 4S and had to research the basic understanding of how that works. 👍
Me to having issues WITH my slipper Clutch on my my 4s kraton when i drive on grass or GRAVEL but not cement will have drive my 4s kraton in a big school yard when i get my Truck out of shop getting New gears put in the back of Truck way in THE back wete i have to take the cover off take the the Red pole off the pole underneath thats under the red pole were u get to the slipper Clutch to tighten and loosen THE Engine and unscrew the bottom metal or hard plastic not sure which it is to get at the gears
Hope its ready by Friday
Iam a Newbie to these Advanced Rc Trucks and Cars
I just know the basics on these Rc Trucks and Cars
If you jump, slipper is so helpful! When the tires stop because you suddenly hit the ground whole you're gassing it she'll save your gearing from stripping as well as the other soft parts.
very true
That’s why you never land on power, then you won’t have to worry about it
@@falcondragonslayerif you're a baby you can do it like that.
@@Boogie_the_cat ?
My brother recently replaced the slipper clutch in his Slash with a center diff. A slipper clutch works well for a racer or on-road car, but it doesn’t work that great for bashing or general joining around off-road. His Slash handles much better with the center differential than it ever did with the slipper clutch. An extra plus is the steel spur gear. You can’t have a metal spur gear on most slipper clutches, because there’s too much heat generated by the friction. Therefore, you need to use a plastic spur gear, which strips teeth extremely easily in something like a Slash. My brother’s Slash is 3 months old and he’s stripped 4 of the plastic spur gears in that time.
I always look at it this way.
Slipper/center spool for low-traction surfaces (dirt, clay)
Center diff for high-traction surfaces (pavement, carpet)
Locked slipper/spool is basically full-time 4wd. Center differential is AWD. AWD is fantastic when the traction is good, but not so much when it isn't. Full-time 4WD is fantastic when the traction is low, but will bind up the drivetrain when traction is high.
This is why in full-scale vehicles like the Jeep Wrangler that have full-time 4wd and no center differential, when you're driving on the road, your 4wd is disengaged. You only engage the 4wd when traction is low. But in a vehicle like a modern crossover SUV or Subaru, AWD is active all the time and rarely is there an option to lock the center diff to create a full-time 4wd drivetrain.
Some newer vehicles are starting to include this feature, like the new Landrover Defender. It can lock it's center diff which changes it from an AWD vehicle to a 4wd vehicle.
If you're running your buggy on carpet, go center diff. If you're running your buggy on clay or dirt, run the slipper.
It's actually the opposite -- carpet cars always come with slippers and dirt versions always come with diffs.
It’s the opposite, slipper for high traction- carpet/astro turf and center diff for loose conditions- dirt, grass, gravel etc.
Remeber the most important thing, a slipper cluch it consjmes itself, it is going to go bad over time, a well kept diff (obviously if not abuse or used costantly to race and put under lot of stress) may last very long and every part may be swapped to repair
My Kraton 6s has 1 mil in the center diff and feels great
Can you review installing electronics and camber, toe setups on your B74! Nice video content on the B74, I just picked one up....
i just love your content man. you got a fan from india...
Running a center diff in high grip is bad for your transmission, also on power the steering becomes dependant on how much the diff is moving so the amount of steering you have varies massively. You can also cook the center diff oil and cook the front tyres
Great video buddy, because I need to adjust my slipper to save my wheel hex. my wheel hex is getting rounded off! Nylon wheels!
Glad I found this video! Fantastic explanation on both. really helpful thank you!
Good video we need more stuff like this
Great info and breakdown of the two👍
For me on my 4wd mod buggy outdoor its a center diff for sure with about 60k or less slippers are to touchy to drive on inconstant surfaces . Indoor on Turf or carpet gota say trying both the slipper clutch is much better smoother more forward drive /traction.
Nice comparison! But what about some words about dual slipper clutch systems like the Arrma 3s ones, where they can slip either side individually, so it acts more like a clutch
Yoni Cozac those are good, my 22-4 2.0 had one and they tend to handle better than the single slip designs.
Sounds like this would be good for my 4x4 pede..I wanna chill on the wheelies
One of the best technical descriptive RC vids I've seen in years. 👍
How about "Cush Drives" in Traxxas RCs and XMAXX?
Great vid. So which would you recommend for Norcal Hobbies indoor off-road carpet track? I've seen both used.
good explanation brah.
In your (or anyone's ) opinion what is best for light bashing in loose dirt and gravel with minor grass, a slipper clutch or a center differential. What wt fluid is best for offroading if I did use a center diff? I am running a Traxxas 4x4 vxl Slash. I do racing on both asphalt and dirt tracks as well as light bashing.
Off note, I know that the Erevo uses a center differential as opposed to the slash which uses a slipper clutch. The erevo is great for offroading and light racing and has great traction on dirt. Should I put a center diff in the slash or will it not make any real difference?
can a center diff help prevent stripping pinion/ring gears when braking hard?
Really clear explanation, thanks!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! It was extremely helpful!
Your thumbnails look trashed: are you a mechanic?
Really nice explanation!
Thank you very much!
Hey Razor could you do a motor size breakdown? Like about size, what all the numbers mean and kv ratings? Thanks
Chris Watson good idea for a video!
@@RazorRC Thanks! It would help me out alot! More specifically how to measure and determine the size of a stock motor without the info on it. And also how to decide a good kv for a certain type truck and what you want in terms of low end, high end, speed and torque or a good number for both. Thanks Razor! 👌
Great video man, thanks for making
Nice video, and solid explanation
Slipper clutch, also known as a back-torque limiting clutch in the real world (popular on high-horsepower motorcycles and supermoto). Though we use it less for back-torque in RC and more as a viscous coupler to limit shock loads to components.
Yeah, I've got a sportbike with a slipper clutch, so am pretty familiar with the motorcycle version.
Great info and explanation 😎👍
Great stuff bro I just learnt a lot thx to you 🙏🙏👊 it does not mean I am not scared to touch these things it just means I know what is waiting for me now when I have to 😂😂🙈 I am debating whether or not to strip my new senton 3s slipper to check all is ok before I even run it! Sounds like madness to me as a noob but think I will need to. Do you strip down new rc cars to check em all over before you run yours? This is my 1st proper one and I wanna look after it proper 🙏🙏👊
Hi mate that video was very educational and well explain great video. I run slipper clutch and a centre differential on my X maxx. It's saved me a lot of differentials and money. Best of both 👍🦘😁😁
The drive shaft connected to the sper gear will always drive at full power. A diff ONLY bleeds power from the planetary gear side. Any diff always has a drive side. Differential 101
Good information, I appreciate it!
Great video, this is just what I needed. How do they compare with motor stress, heat and battery consumption?
great video and explanation
I am having trouble finding a 50t or 46t spur for that center diff. Any idea where to look. Checked both my hobby shops today. One of them said they didn’t have anything, the other said they don’t make one which I find hard to believe. I am scootering the internet at the moment
Excellent topic!
Great information. Thank you for the post.
Just awesome bro
Good explanation
This is an older video, but I want to ask anyway. My Revo has a front and rear diff, and a slipper clutch. But I’ve seen a center diff conversion that’s out there and I’m interested in but have no idea how to do it? It looks like is require an entirely new transmission casing, and I don’t know much more than that except for the ones that do have a center diff can add an upgraded braking system. Any help?
Good video!
There's also a cush Drive
So I have a sc6 amd a sc5. With 5k oil in the diff. With the sc5 I have a problem with on power corner exit. It wants to loop out every time I hit the gas coming out of the corner. Being that u are a racer I figured I would ask. Would u go with a lighter fluid or a thicker fluid in the diff?
Very Good! 👍
Thanks for the visit
Subbed subbed subbed man ur great at explaining to newbies well I’m getting back into racing rc after 15 yrs but this is my first electric car I’m a nitro guy wow times and technology have changed lol but I’m getting back into it like a newbie till I’m up to speed with stuff I got the arrma typhon 3s with a sidewinder 4 esc instead of factory one and I just put 20t pinion instead of 16t factory
Man you got back in starting at the top! That car is awesome, I had a similar story as I got out at a young age, but never lost the interest. But when I decided to get back in, I bought a huge lot with a Revo and a T-MAXX and many extra parts. The Revo was in far better shape, so that’s still what I drive. And it’s an OLD design. I love that Arrma typhon it’s just out of my price range. An actual bulletin though!
Hey man, any common reason why a center diff would start slipping? I've been having issues with my notorious 6s for a long time. I even swapped it out for a brand new one and nothing changed.
Great explanation thanks
You're welcome!
Thankyou for the information!!! I get it now 😁👊
fascinating, this was recommended to me, thank you for the info
Marko Ahonen thanks for stopping by!
Awesome info as usual. Thanks man!
Hey man this was very helpful but I wanna know how to set my b74 slipper clutch because it's like making a grinding noise and stuff
Should probably trouble shoot the grinding for damage and if nothing observed reassemble and set the clutch. Typically I will turn while pushing RC forward until wheels grab and leave it there with some blue loctite
Great video! I cannot find a weight for the center diff build? There is no instructions on the package or on the ae site? How did you know how much fluid to put in?
Peter Renaud top of the crosspins is what I do
@@RazorRC thank you!
Common belief the plastic gears reduce 9 grams per diff. Also a common belief the center gear diff with plastic gears, has less rotating mass then the slipper.
The diff shown here actually has plastic gears in it and weighs the same as the slipper. IIRC, my metal geared diff weighed 9 grams more than my plastic geared one.
Do any platforms use ball diffs in the center diff?
Good job! Thanks!
such an informative video
My traxxas came with a center diff mounted to a slipper
Spring rates please. I see .874 or 1.004 and have no idea what it means.
Why would they even put the slipper as an option? Like why, if you have the option, would you install the slipper??
hey i have a center diff, why is my gear slipping??
Thank you
Is there a way to put power into the wheel on the ground and not into the wheel off the ground when I free wheel it on my centre diff in my hsp flying fish lowrider rc car
thicker center diff fluid will keep it more even, front and rear
I have a 2S car with a slipper. It's a weak part that slips uncontrollably, the friction material shows no wear but it slips badly nonetheless. So now I have locked it completely, no issues with the rest of the drivetrain. Other slippers might work better since this car is a cheaper Chinese made rc but it was garbage so I had no choice but to lock it and it works great that way. Unless they use real friction materials these slipper clutches are useless and lead to issues.
What about power handling capabilities? I’m looking at getting a Tekno 410.3 SCT powered by either a hobbywing xr8 (either plus or sct) with a hobbywing 3660 g2 3200kv motor (fully sensored install), or a Tekin RX8 Gen 3 on a Tekin Pro4 HD 3,000kv motor (fully sensored install)... it’ll mostly be a basher and I’ll race with it off and on maybe yet I’ll be using 2 different packs... Gens Ace 2s 7200mah 70c continuous, and a Gens Ace 3s 7600mah 60c continuous... the race pack would be a Protek 2s LiHV 8500mah 100-120c continuous... how would you set up the driveline?
On 2S, I would run a center diff
Razor RC.. Thanks! and what about 3s? Idk if the Tekno 410.3 SCT has a slipper clutch option available from factory or even aftermarket (unless you got clever yourself with sourcing parts already made and mod those or really get clever and design one entirely yourself)
well done. Thank you
So does it send power or bleed out power to where it’s needed, I’m confused ?
Center diff? All it does is allow the front and rear wheels to turn at different speeds. The thicker the oil, the less it allows this to happen.
Good info
Thank u
Do you have a movie, where you drive the car with the slipperclutch and with the centrediff, to see the difference?
What fluid would you recommend in a slash 4x4 center diff for bashing 2s? 3s? I may get a center diff with my slash 4x4 for options if wanna race or bash and depending on the feel I want...
10k
And I’m saying 10k because that’s gonna give you faster acceleration and more wheelies. Ik your slash doesn’t really do wheelies so you will get all of your power instantly
But if you want more control and a little bit slower acceleration then I would do 50k
Those thumbnails though.
Send me the motor name
Unfortunately, a lot of this information is incorrect, You're referring more towards old-school Tamiya cars, modern day rc cars have moved on from this mechanism.
What, slipper clutches? Every modern 1/10 4wd race kit offers a slipper clutch option (Xray, Associated, Losi, etc.)
@RazorRC I think you should specify what car you're talking about. All cars are different and need attention to detail. Traxxas have a completely different setup to Losi and Tamiya. You never mentioned gear ratios and how that can affect a slipper clutch. I think you could of put a bit more thought into this video. It seems a bit rushed.
Anyway, I hope this helps buddy, look forward to seeing some more content.
@@thehomefront1905 I literally say at 0:33 this is an Associated B74. And gear ratios are irrelevant whether you use a slipper clutch or center differential, you would not want to change the ratio if you changed between the two.
@RazorRC This is my point, you're not specifying what's what, you're assuming people already know when most don't. You're much better off doing another video and saving your youtube fans, I feel you owe it to them.
A lot of races used 500000 k Center diff
Write me the difference please
Sound wasn’t clear or words spoken were all blended into each other. Beginning was no real well worded explanation on how the slipper worked. Just very general. Extremely general. Maybe toward the end it kinda gave some decent points. I would have created an outline of slipper info and separate outline on diff so that it would be more fluid and organized which will make it more understandable. Thanks for posting tho. Will be looking for more of these. See if there is a good one out there.
You might prefer the written version I did a few years back on my blog: razorrcblog.blogspot.com/2015/09/center-differentials-explained.html
Them fingernails doe
😂
Probably broke his thumbs at different times of his life! Haha 🤷♂️ that’ll cause that
wow dude are your nails ok
Need some new fingers my guy
Man those nails🤮😱😱😱😱😭
Big ol IDIOT, he is not doing a nail commercial he is helping to educate people. What a Fn DICK to say something like that. No wonder society is so Fxxked up now days people like you
Working "MAN" hands
@@K2H117 I see
@@2shoestoo get off your period dude🤣🤣🤣 . U know y can just stroll down didn't have to look at my comment 🤣. I was joking. U want a cookie
Big ol IDIOT. Lack of education and social skills are real evident in your case.