RC mistakes 1) Overpowered your RC cars 2) Not using the right tools 3) Set end points on servo 4) Use loctite 5) Over-tightening slipper clutch 6) Set lipos to storage charge 7) Check bearings 8) Check electronic temperatures 9) Setting gear mesh 10)Use good wheel nuts
servo endpoints were a miss for me. I was at the track this week and had a local pro set mine. I didnt even know i had to do it manually. I usually delete my slipper.
I hear people say all the time, "Those servos are crap, I've had three of them fail on me." "Well, did you set your endpoints?" "What are you talking about?" (facepalm)
@@Distracted_driving_kills My local hobby shop sucks with their inventory, even though they sell mostly Traxxas, they never have the thing I need and it takes them like 2 weeks to even get a shipment if I use them to order it. Im all for supporting my local hobby shop, but I will not spend a primum for something and then have to wait 2 weeks for that part to show up when I can pay half of what they charge and wait at most 3 days
@@Distracted_driving_kills Most of my local hobby shops closed up years ago. I once drove to one further away looking for an Arrma Raider. The guy didn’t recognize me,. He didn’t know that I already had nearly every RC on his shelf already in my collection at the time, so when I asked about Arrma, he insulted me saying that they don’t carry “inferior products”. Never went back and ordered it online. In fact, that’s when I began stockpiling parts. Now I nearly have my own hobby shop in my garage. Just put some new tires on the Arrma Raider last week. Picked them out of my own collection, afterwards, I went online to restock them. Also, it’s not a bad idea to have some OEM parts on hand just in case a vehicle gets discontinued and spare parts become difficult to find.
So drive 1.5hrs to get to the “local “ hobby shop talking with the owner I now call tell them what I need and they set it aside for me and if he doesn’t have it he will match any price I find on line and mail it to me if I want. Just go talk with them see what they can do to help you out and them all in one.
I started out on a brushed XL-5 Rustler. Before I even thought about going brushless, i up graded to better caster blocks, axle carriers, an actual front bumper, etc. "Strong muscles work best on strong bones".
I'm thinking of getting a Rustler. What do you think of that platform? I have an E-revo 1/16 now but it's kind of small, a little fidgety to work on sometimes.
Excellent tips. I'm totally guilty of not taking the time to do the proper maintenance on my RC's. I have only been into RC's for about the past 2 years and just like many people new to the hobby I want to go faster so I dump in motors and don't even pay attention to the rest of the car. Then I go out to drive only to break stuff. I run oversized tires and do all the rookie mistakes but I'm learning and videos like this are so helpful. Thanks for sharing.
keep your car clean, compressed air, tooth brush and small paint brush and a few moments will keep it looking new, take care your bearing by regularly oiling them, also I always buy RC Screwz stainless steel hardware set, don't rust, look good you'll have the stock screws as spares For racing slow & smooth is faster! then out of control & crashing...spinnin' ain't winnin' plus it tears up tires Also if you run in mud mist the car with WD-40 then wipe it down especially under chassis and suspension with it will keep the mud from building up and make it much easier to clean
SuddenlyTurtles oh that’ll no doubt be the case. I thought the same way after ordering the Dukono Pro and here I am checking ups tracking every 2 minutes for my 5th rc
The tools! Recent return to RC here, started building a kit with the included alens, did not take much time before I stopped and waited till I could go get a good set of drivers.
Anyone else notice how long that front right wheel was spinning when he was talking about bearings and gave It a little push?? What bearings do u have on your car my good sir? Cuz I needs them...
9:32....so I spend about a year doing some pretty intense analysis on bearings (as I knew little about them). I worked with a few manufacturers (in fact I was sponsored by ACER at one point)..but here is what I learned: Like you said, make sure *ALL* your bearings are good. By that...I feel the only way to have a truly "smooth" vehicle is to achieve just that: ALL the bearings are good. Meaning, if one bearing is out, then you might as well have 99% of them bad....smooth is smooth, not is not. So now, I change them all out whenever I do a refresh (every 1/2 gallon or so). ...or at least ensure there is not a single bad bearing causing it from being smooth. Additional best practices: 1. When testing the bearing. test it on the object that will either spin around it (outter race) or the object in which the bearing will spin (inner race). Taking them out and testing by hand is fine, however softer the race can be malformed and it will behave differently once it is back inside the insert. 2. Ceramics are only good for deeply hidden bearings. Meaning you would not want to use them for clutch, axle, posts, any place where dirt can often get to. I use them for diffs and bulkheads only. 3. Dual stage: metal faces inward, rubber outward. 4. I found its more efficient and profiecient to simply purchase bearings (you can get them as low as .80 cents vs cleaning them. The odds of damaging the shields is great (for me it was anyway). That is my thoughts on bearings, anyway.
#1. Overpowering. I just got done watching a vid where some guy put a brushless motor upgrade(?) into a WlToys 10428. It spent most of its time flipping over backward simply accelerating or sideways doing corners. A chain is no stronger than its weakest link.
Good points all!!! Over powered my 2 wheel slash & took all the fun out of it, spent more time on the roof then the tires. Crawler gets a good teardown after a day's beating of dirt, mud & water. With the expense of these units a little care goes a long way!
Gear mesh put a piece note book paper between the gears push motor against the spur tighten the screws and pull the paper out! Perfect mesh every time!!
Advice: Don't drive on street /residential area. Drive in an open parking lot or field where there is nothing to crash into. I drive in a open field with 3 foot grandual jumps. a lot of flips and tumbles but, very few breaks because there is nothing to crash into.
When you talk about steering endpoints do you have any videos showing how this is done I need help with the trx4 it turns very sharp to the left but it doesn't turn very well to the right
The comment about speed is so true. I labored over whether or not to get a 3S or 6S, and finally decided to take it slow and get an Arrma Senton 3S BLX. I also went back and forth on 50C or 100C batteries. Long story short, got the Senton and 50C 3S batteries, which were more than enough from a speed perspective. Can even believe that I was considering 6S as my first ride.
the purpose of this thing is to grip it and rip and have a blast.ill buy a new slipper.mine is crank as tight as you can get and i havent had a problem yet.it will sling gravel hit the grass and leave a patch and pop wheelies i didnt buy it to baby it.i bought it to rip.mine is nitro though
Good job pointing out that the spur gear will have a spur high spot. They are rarely perfect. I've noticed this as long as I've done this this and it's the first time I've seen it covered in video or print.
Easy way to set gear mesh? 32p gears: Shove some standard printer paper between the gears, mash motor/engine against spur gear, cinch down, remove paper. Done. Mesh is perfect. 48p gears? Something a little thinner, like a reciept, works well here. 64p gears? Put 48p or 32p gears on it ya heathen.
am a nitro guy, but I dig what you said about 'overpowering.' I completely agree. In fact, I've always said...the entire goal of surfact RC (for most of us) is to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible. In the nitro world, it's more about your clutch settings and if you engage at too high of an RPM you get what is called an RPM lag. Too early in the RPM range, then you overload the engine as the clutch is creating too much draw from it. In other instance, you will not get from A to B as quickly as you would if the power-band is linear, and progressive. This is why in the nitro world, they make different types of engines for driving styles. Some folks like more torque and abrupt engagement, while others like a more linear feel. But yeah, I had one of those Mini 8ights with a 4S on it and it was undrivable.
Is your motor rated for higher than that? My motor is a 3s bLx boost, none of it was rated for 4s, I was thinking about getting a 4s esc and running it on the 3s motor but it says I can't do I guess I'll have to upgrade it all
I've ran 15 6s packs through my new arrma outcast and have only been jumping the shit out of it. Of course I've had a few screw ups and landed rough, but nothing has broke. NOTHING! My traxxas E Revo would blow a diff every run and break a axle.
Super video! I am new to RC after 20 years (I had an RC10 as a kid) and I have learned a few of these mistakes getting back into the hobby and they are 100% true. I love my MIP tools and am going to start performing scheduled maintenance for my bearings-on my TA Reflex 14 I found that the drivetrain is not water tight and the metal shielded bearings completely seized. I plan on replacing them with rubber shielded bearings and checking them regularly when my kids decide to run through puddles!
I always had issues with nuts on my quad choppers until I got reverse thread screws. Even with serated lock nuts I still have issues with 2 wheels only, does anyine make reverse threaded wheel nuts?
I'd say the slipper is there if the Wheels lock so that you won't destroy the drivetrain completely when giving throttle and stuck at the same time rather than slipper reducing wheelies, the gearing does Control that more because if you use the slipper to reduce wheelies it'll be burnt in no time. Btw the gear mesh trick has Always worked for me just put a piece of paper between the gears and pull it out and tighten the screws. Still good and helpful video!
I set my slipper clutches such that they will give before the driveline does, but only barely. As in, they are **only** there to avoid damaging parts. The tires give way long before the slipper actually slips in all of my RCs, and that's the way I like it. Way I see it, it's up to me to apply the correct amount of throttle for the occasion. The throttle is fully proportional, after all. Also never broken any driveline parts.
Good info , most the time i go no higher then a 3 s lipo, on my rc cars and trucks . because 25 to 30 mph , is more then enough speed for me , when running my rc cars and trucks.
Great video about the most common mistakes that beginners make with R/C cars. I like to put a piece of paper between the pinion and the spur gear to set the mesh. I then pull out the piece of paper and check the gear mesh. Also. I would not put thread lock on the screws that hold the motor. I would instead use nothing or lock washers to hold the motor in place. That way you can replace the motor or install a different pinion easily.
6s was my first rc. Sure I wished I shipped a little cause I found others that I like, but I'm very happy. 6s on speed runs and 3s for off road. This is very reasonable and you can't tell me otherwise 😂
You don't need a temp gun, either. They're nice tools to have, but...well. If electric, place your thumb on the heatsink/motor can. If you can't leave your thumb on said metal for >5 seconds, it's too hot. If nitro, dribble some water onto the glow plug. It should sizzle away over 2-5 seconds. If it's faster than that, you're overheated, if it's slower than that you aren't up to operating temp. Spit also works if you're brave enough to get your mouth that close to a running engine; I've done this countless times. If gasoline, keep the cooling fan intake clean. These things pretty much can't overheat unless the airflow into the cooling fan is plugged, as they're basically just high performance string trimmer engines.
Is there a minimum operating distance to a Maxx? If lm closer than 15 or 20 feet and pull the trigger in either direction it just sits there and jerks like it's confused.
I've had bad luck with factory Traxxas radios they glitch. Best rtr radio IMO is Tactic. It's too bad Horizon started supplying Arrma's with cheap Spektrums when they bought them.
Hi, I would like to ask you: for a 53t spur gear. What would be a recomendable pinion gear. I don’t mind the power for speed. I jus don’t want the pinion to strip the spurs gear because it’s not an appropriate pitch fit. I own a DHK monster truck . Thank you
Agree with you, my sons’ typhoon mega over heats on sand & terrain. Could you advise if a 3660 3000kv with 80A esc to be sufficient or would it be a overkill for sand & grass terrain?
I've never had a metal to metal screw back out on me never needed thread lock....however if it's going into plastic it seems to always eventually back out at lease a little bit. Wish they made a threadlock for going into plastic.
Never forget to replace them lock nuts. You can only reuse them cpl times. Or use lock tite after taking them off so many times. The nylon lock wears out and loosen up. Then can come undone.
Video is great advice. but IR thermometer is your worst bet. the laser is a guide point and most IR thermometer measure a 3 inch radius at the distance your holding it at. I deal with alot of temp related task with my job and these ware banded because of this. Don't believe me read it in the manual it comes with. great video though :)
😁👍Great info..the most one they always do is not set a slipper clutch properly, I always stress set it up properly most just leave it super tight and they always break stuff and are wondering why..a proper set up slipper clutch will save you a lot of $. Also the temp guns a great one also. good video all the info is great for RCers.
Never got into RC cars, I am into other RC things, but is there any reason why I couldn't use a low KV outrunner brushless motor so I can run a 6S battery and an ESC that doesn't have to withstand 800000 amps, and while not being really fast? Cause inrunners on 6S are nuts because they are pretty high KV, so why not just use a outrunner that has much lower KV? Would probably be more efficient too, no?
1: I bought a latrax rally and another brushed sct, but now I am working on upgrading a rally to brushless 3s, so it has doubled its speed, and I have a tacon soar, which I am running on 3s. Totally worth it. 2: I bought a nice set and it's insane. 3: some radios don't have dual rates, so its kinda a pain. 4: I've never used threadlocker but I have also never run on 6s
8: I was running a brushed sct through grass for a half hour run, and my LVC was off, as I was using a nimh. Suddenly, I lost throttle, and apparently my motor got hot enough to de-solder itself
Hi Guys i got me some new driveshafts today and they came with some screw on hexes but now i cant Put the wheel nuts on too tight because Then the wheels wont Spin freely. Has anybody a fix for that?( Btw i have a 2wd Rustler
I've been looking for a channel that the operator answers questions! I think I've found it.... I was never big into rc's but a few year's ago I bought a used pile of cars, 20yrs ago, and here's what they are. OFNA Titan, and a Titan-twin. I got the single running and drove it around for a day or two just 1 tank total running time. Then I noticed metal shavings around those ⚙ gears you pointed at. 1st am I good to run those gears still or do they have hardened edges and if I run it they'll just grind off. I'm in a small mtn town in Wyoming, and am now disabled. And don't get out much, because of the pain involved. But if I could get with someone who knows these rigs I could probably have some fun....from Wyoming USA 🇺🇸🤠 oh and I picked a traxis something when my daughters boyfriend crashed then abandoned it with her 6-8ish yrs ago..
2 lessons I have learned on my first practice day was 1 get the correct tires for the track trust me the attached hobby shop is not trying to get some money from you... well they do but they would much rather you have a good first experience and become a long time customerrather then make a quick 50 bucks off of you. 2nd take it as slow as possible and slowly increase your speed every pack or 2 you run.
Excellent!!! Well explained and right to the point. I agree with most points. Uhh, yeah, I need to get a temp gun. Been wanting one for very long, but you are right, one of those things that a lot of people, like me, keeps down-prioritized for no good reason, compared to the price. ☺️
I've noted many from the UK get an almost neanderthal like joy launching them 30+ft in the air and crash back to earth without a landing ramp. Wouldn't it be simpler just to throw the RC in the air rather than rely on it to motivate itself? I know for a fact they could do it far more often being the RC no longer needed to otherwise function.
i test my heat by touch, after a 6s run for an 45-60 min i can still touch my motor and esc, hottest thing is near where the batteries touch togeather.. maybe its the way i use it?
@@RazorRC I'm using an arrma Keaton 6s, I have two onyx 3s 5400 60c I was suggested those by my local hobby shop (since he happened to have then in stock probably))
Yep very true. It’s all about having fun, nobody wants to keep fixing there car every five mins. Good tips. Temp guns are cheap well worth getting one of them to. You can use them for a lot of things. Happy rc/ing ppl ✌️😊
how to SET THE SLIPPER , hold the back wheels of the car on a flat surface and lightly use the thorttel you want enouh slip to PICK up the front tires 1/4 " or so start " LOSE " then keep tighting until the front tires pick up off the flat surface then your good to go
Good little video i have a 2016 vxl slash run 3s well i though my 3s battery was bad because i run it for 5 min and the red protection light comes on well ordered 2 new batteries and same problem have no clue i geared it for faster then put it back to factory light still comes on ? Any clue
@@johnnycash7803 Exactly, its pretty impressive how much difference they make. In the build video he said he was upgrading the bearing kit to ceramic while he built the T6.2
RC mistakes
1) Overpowered your RC cars
2) Not using the right tools
3) Set end points on servo
4) Use loctite
5) Over-tightening slipper clutch
6) Set lipos to storage charge
7) Check bearings
8) Check electronic temperatures
9) Setting gear mesh
10)Use good wheel nuts
should of mentioned do NOT use anaerobic loctite on graphite or plastic; eats it away or can cause cracking. nail polish or CA glue.
servo endpoints were a miss for me. I was at the track this week and had a local pro set mine. I didnt even know i had to do it manually. I usually delete my slipper.
I put a 5700 kv 3S Castle system in my step son's Duratrax baja bug and the hobby shop guy was legitimately disappointed with me 😂
Set end points for sure.
I hear people say all the time, "Those servos are crap, I've had three of them fail on me."
"Well, did you set your endpoints?"
"What are you talking about?"
(facepalm)
The worst part of the hobby is waiting for the parts to come in the post
Support your local hobby shop!
I drive 30 minutes to my nearest. And they sell traxxas parts at cost or cheaper
True
@@Distracted_driving_kills My local hobby shop sucks with their inventory, even though they sell mostly Traxxas, they never have the thing I need and it takes them like 2 weeks to even get a shipment if I use them to order it. Im all for supporting my local hobby shop, but I will not spend a primum for something and then have to wait 2 weeks for that part to show up when I can pay half of what they charge and wait at most 3 days
@@Distracted_driving_kills Most of my local hobby shops closed up years ago. I once drove to one further away looking for an Arrma Raider. The guy didn’t recognize me,. He didn’t know that I already had nearly every RC on his shelf already in my collection at the time, so when I asked about Arrma, he insulted me saying that they don’t carry “inferior products”. Never went back and ordered it online. In fact, that’s when I began stockpiling parts. Now I nearly have my own hobby shop in my garage. Just put some new tires on the Arrma Raider last week. Picked them out of my own collection, afterwards, I went online to restock them. Also, it’s not a bad idea to have some OEM parts on hand just in case a vehicle gets discontinued and spare parts become difficult to find.
So drive 1.5hrs to get to the “local
“ hobby shop talking with the owner I now call tell them what I need and they set it aside for me and if he doesn’t have it he will match any price I find on line and mail it to me if I want. Just go talk with them see what they can do to help you out and them all in one.
I started out on a brushed XL-5 Rustler. Before I even thought about going brushless, i up graded to better caster blocks, axle carriers, an actual front bumper, etc. "Strong muscles work best on strong bones".
I'm thinking of getting a Rustler. What do you think of that platform? I have an E-revo 1/16 now but it's kind of small, a little fidgety to work on sometimes.
Excellent tips. I'm totally guilty of not taking the time to do the proper maintenance on my RC's. I have only been into RC's for about the past 2 years and just like many people new to the hobby I want to go faster so I dump in motors and don't even pay attention to the rest of the car. Then I go out to drive only to break stuff. I run oversized tires and do all the rookie mistakes but I'm learning and videos like this are so helpful. Thanks for sharing.
keep your car clean, compressed air, tooth brush and small paint brush and a few moments will keep it looking new, take care your bearing by regularly oiling them, also I always buy RC Screwz stainless steel hardware set, don't rust, look good you'll have the stock screws as spares
For racing slow & smooth is faster! then out of control & crashing...spinnin' ain't winnin' plus it tears up tires
Also if you run in mud mist the car with WD-40 then wipe it down especially under chassis and suspension with it will keep the mud from building up and make it much easier to clean
We use spray Pam, or spray canola oil to help with mud as a prevention tool....from Wyoming USA 🇺🇸🤠
Number one mistake is buying a hobby grade RC.
Number one lie to self, “I’m just gonna buy this one RC.”
No kidding! Here I am eighteen 1/8 and 1/10 scales, five 1/5 scales, two drones and two boats later😝
So true... it is impossible to decide for exact one car and yeah wow 1/5 scale, arghhh!
Picked up a Redcat Racing Volcano EPX Pro this week and I hope this isn't the case!
SuddenlyTurtles oh that’ll no doubt be the case. I thought the same way after ordering the Dukono Pro and here I am checking ups tracking every 2 minutes for my 5th rc
fixing the car is half of the fun! gotta keep the wrench hand strong!
5666
The tools! Recent return to RC here, started building a kit with the included alens, did not take much time before I stopped and waited till I could go get a good set of drivers.
Anyone else notice how long that front right wheel was spinning when he was talking about bearings and gave It a little push?? What bearings do u have on your car my good sir? Cuz I needs them...
those were stock TLR bearings that I degreased and reoiled with bearing oil.
9:32....so I spend about a year doing some pretty intense analysis on bearings (as I knew little about them). I worked with a few manufacturers (in fact I was sponsored by ACER at one point)..but here is what I learned: Like you said, make sure *ALL* your bearings are good. By that...I feel the only way to have a truly "smooth" vehicle is to achieve just that: ALL the bearings are good. Meaning, if one bearing is out, then you might as well have 99% of them bad....smooth is smooth, not is not. So now, I change them all out whenever I do a refresh (every 1/2 gallon or so). ...or at least ensure there is not a single bad bearing causing it from being smooth.
Additional best practices:
1. When testing the bearing. test it on the object that will either spin around it (outter race) or the object in which the bearing will spin (inner race). Taking them out and testing by hand is fine, however softer the race can be malformed and it will behave differently once it is back inside the insert.
2. Ceramics are only good for deeply hidden bearings. Meaning you would not want to use them for clutch, axle, posts, any place where dirt can often get to. I use them for diffs and bulkheads only.
3. Dual stage: metal faces inward, rubber outward.
4. I found its more efficient and profiecient to simply purchase bearings (you can get them as low as .80 cents vs cleaning them. The odds of damaging the shields is great (for me it was anyway).
That is my thoughts on bearings, anyway.
i learned to take care of my batteries from this. Thanks man!
#1. Overpowering. I just got done watching a vid where some guy put a brushless motor upgrade(?) into a WlToys 10428. It spent most of its time flipping over backward simply accelerating or sideways doing corners. A chain is no stronger than its weakest link.
You don't compare overpowering rc cars and then say WLtoys cO
Good points all!!! Over powered my 2 wheel slash & took all the fun out of it, spent more time on the roof then the tires. Crawler gets a good teardown after a day's beating of dirt, mud & water. With the expense of these units a little care goes a long way!
Great video. I wish I'd watched this 6 months ago before I started the hobby. Learned the hard way with crap tools and stripping/rounding screws.
Gear mesh put a piece note book paper between the gears push motor against the spur tighten the screws and pull the paper out! Perfect mesh every time!!
That’s a good trick, but honestly I do my by sound now, I found that the notebook paper gave me too tight of a mesh.
@@saltybutsain6348 the paper works perfect for me
@@saltybutsain6348 try 2 pieces! ...from Wyoming USA 🇺🇸🤠
Advice: Don't drive on street /residential area. Drive in an open parking lot or field where there is nothing to crash into. I drive in a open field with 3 foot grandual jumps. a lot of flips and tumbles but, very few breaks because there is nothing to crash into.
When you talk about steering endpoints do you have any videos showing how this is done I need help with the trx4 it turns very sharp to the left but it doesn't turn very well to the right
The comment about speed is so true. I labored over whether or not to get a 3S or 6S, and finally decided to take it slow and get an Arrma Senton 3S BLX. I also went back and forth on 50C or 100C batteries. Long story short, got the Senton and 50C 3S batteries, which were more than enough from a speed perspective. Can even believe that I was considering 6S as my first ride.
the purpose of this thing is to grip it and rip and have a blast.ill buy a new slipper.mine is crank as tight as you can get and i havent had a problem yet.it will sling gravel hit the grass and leave a patch and pop wheelies i didnt buy it to baby it.i bought it to rip.mine is nitro though
Ha...4 me it was about 17 minutes before I hit a curb and broke a A-arm,,then the next week a bulkhead..waiting on a rear hub....
And 1 more a- arm.....
an oldie but a goodie, thank's for the refresher course!
You forgot about driving impaired. That's when I break my stuff.
My Dick 😂
those sober drivers need to be taught a lesson!
Lol
🍻gets my slash every time 😂
Haha that applies for me when flying my drone
Good job pointing out that the spur gear will have a spur high spot. They are rarely perfect. I've noticed this as long as I've done this this and it's the first time I've seen it covered in video or print.
You're right, I noticed that too 😎
i checked the temperature of the motor on one of my small rc cars once, it gave me a burn :D
That ain’t good
lol same
Easy way to set gear mesh?
32p gears: Shove some standard printer paper between the gears, mash motor/engine against spur gear, cinch down, remove paper. Done. Mesh is perfect.
48p gears? Something a little thinner, like a reciept, works well here.
64p gears? Put 48p or 32p gears on it ya heathen.
Thats good for every rc car no matter what size. I do this since 10 jears to 1:8 and 1:5 cars. Never had one problem whit the gears !
Lol I have a bunch of 64 pitch gears and I never think of using them
am a nitro guy, but I dig what you said about 'overpowering.' I completely agree. In fact, I've always said...the entire goal of surfact RC (for most of us) is to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible. In the nitro world, it's more about your clutch settings and if you engage at too high of an RPM you get what is called an RPM lag. Too early in the RPM range, then you overload the engine as the clutch is creating too much draw from it.
In other instance, you will not get from A to B as quickly as you would if the power-band is linear, and progressive. This is why in the nitro world, they make different types of engines for driving styles. Some folks like more torque and abrupt engagement, while others like a more linear feel.
But yeah, I had one of those Mini 8ights with a 4S on it and it was undrivable.
“Overpowering your cars is an American tradition” I just got back from Orlando and I can confirm.
I got an 8s ESC on my 2wd slash, got it for cheap, and I run only a 3s on it, I don't really plan to go higher, Overkill ESC lol
Is your motor rated for higher than that? My motor is a 3s bLx boost, none of it was rated for 4s, I was thinking about getting a 4s esc and running it on the 3s motor but it says I can't do I guess I'll have to upgrade it all
Great tips! Come to think of it I should get a temp gun soon. Using multimeter is not very practical.
I've ran 15 6s packs through my new arrma outcast and have only been jumping the shit out of it. Of course I've had a few screw ups and landed rough, but nothing has broke. NOTHING! My traxxas E Revo would blow a diff every run and break a axle.
That’s traxxas! I love my slash 4x4 but traxxas is like that.
Super video! I am new to RC after 20 years (I had an RC10 as a kid) and I have learned a few of these mistakes getting back into the hobby and they are 100% true. I love my MIP tools and am going to start performing scheduled maintenance for my bearings-on my TA Reflex 14 I found that the drivetrain is not water tight and the metal shielded bearings completely seized. I plan on replacing them with rubber shielded bearings and checking them regularly when my kids decide to run through puddles!
I always had issues with nuts on my quad choppers until I got reverse thread screws.
Even with serated lock nuts I still have issues with 2 wheels only, does anyine make reverse threaded wheel nuts?
I'd say the slipper is there if the Wheels lock so that you won't destroy the drivetrain completely when giving throttle and stuck at the same time rather than slipper reducing wheelies, the gearing does Control that more because if you use the slipper to reduce wheelies it'll be burnt in no time. Btw the gear mesh trick has Always worked for me just put a piece of paper between the gears and pull it out and tighten the screws.
Still good and helpful video!
I set my slipper clutches such that they will give before the driveline does, but only barely. As in, they are **only** there to avoid damaging parts. The tires give way long before the slipper actually slips in all of my RCs, and that's the way I like it. Way I see it, it's up to me to apply the correct amount of throttle for the occasion. The throttle is fully proportional, after all.
Also never broken any driveline parts.
Thanks for your vids. New to the hobby and I’ve been watching a few.
Welcome aboard!
your are becoming the new jang great job
Maxx Davidson thanks, jang had the best videos for sure!
Good info , most the time i go no higher then a 3 s lipo, on my rc cars and trucks . because 25 to 30 mph , is more then enough speed for me , when running my rc cars and trucks.
Great video about the most common mistakes that beginners make with R/C cars. I like to put a piece of paper between the pinion and the spur gear to set the mesh. I then pull out the piece of paper and check the gear mesh. Also. I would not put thread lock on the screws that hold the motor. I would instead use nothing or lock washers to hold the motor in place. That way you can replace the motor or install a different pinion easily.
Really good topics and arguments and even technical explanation!
6s was my first rc. Sure I wished I shipped a little cause I found others that I like, but I'm very happy. 6s on speed runs and 3s for off road.
This is very reasonable and you can't tell me otherwise 😂
how do i put the bb with the spring back in does the spring go first or does the bb
Don't use lock tite! These are race cars, check your bolts after every race / bash. I'm new to rc, but not mechanics
What buggy is that you're using as an example in this video?
You don't need a temp gun, either. They're nice tools to have, but...well.
If electric, place your thumb on the heatsink/motor can. If you can't leave your thumb on said metal for >5 seconds, it's too hot.
If nitro, dribble some water onto the glow plug. It should sizzle away over 2-5 seconds. If it's faster than that, you're overheated, if it's slower than that you aren't up to operating temp. Spit also works if you're brave enough to get your mouth that close to a running engine; I've done this countless times.
If gasoline, keep the cooling fan intake clean. These things pretty much can't overheat unless the airflow into the cooling fan is plugged, as they're basically just high performance string trimmer engines.
Is there a minimum operating distance to a Maxx? If lm closer than 15 or 20 feet and pull the trigger in either direction it just sits there and jerks like it's confused.
I've had bad luck with factory Traxxas radios they glitch. Best rtr radio IMO is Tactic. It's too bad Horizon started supplying Arrma's with cheap Spektrums when they bought them.
Good advice ! Thanks.
Btw... how’s the Losi Tenacity project ?
Randy Dimac will have a race setup video on the Tenacity this week 👍
Good tips bro, some helpful info
Hi, I would like to ask you: for a 53t spur gear. What would be a recomendable pinion gear. I don’t mind the power for speed. I jus don’t want the pinion to strip the spurs gear because it’s not an appropriate pitch fit. I own a DHK monster truck . Thank you
Is it advisable to lubricate the motor spur gear?
Agree with you, my sons’ typhoon mega over heats on sand & terrain. Could you advise if a 3660 3000kv with 80A esc to be sufficient or would it be a overkill for sand & grass terrain?
I've never had a metal to metal screw back out on me never needed thread lock....however if it's going into plastic it seems to always eventually back out at lease a little bit. Wish they made a threadlock for going into plastic.
Never forget to replace them lock nuts. You can only reuse them cpl times. Or use lock tite after taking them off so many times. The nylon lock wears out and loosen up. Then can come undone.
Very good ten (10) basic RC Tips every beginning owner should follow. Nice job. 👍
What is the model car on the video. Really like the design. Want to buy one.
SOUNDED VERY GOOD, WITH EXPERIENCE IN THE FIELD
Do those wheels/tires have a 12mm hex on Rim ? I really like the looks-- What are they ?
Would your recommend getting the rc8t3.1e as a beginner truck. New built a kit before
Video is great advice. but IR thermometer is your worst bet. the laser is a guide point and most IR thermometer measure a 3 inch radius at the distance your holding it at. I deal with alot of temp related task with my job and these ware banded because of this. Don't believe me read it in the manual it comes with. great video though :)
Kcy101 didn’t know that, thanks for the info!
My first car was a 12S DBXLE 2.0, and it just wasn’t enough so I bought a 15S MGM system, getting closer 😉
😁👍Great info..the most one they always do is not set a slipper clutch properly, I always stress set it up properly most just leave it super tight and they always break stuff and are wondering why..a proper set up slipper clutch will save you a lot of $. Also the temp guns a great one also. good video all the info is great for RCers.
Shen RC thanks, you are right about the slipper!
Shen RC I always forget to set my Tamiyas’ slipper clutch ... Ohh, wait, only 5 % of them has one 🙃
I leave mine loose so it can scream a lot.
Never got into RC cars, I am into other RC things, but is there any reason why I couldn't use a low KV outrunner brushless motor so I can run a 6S battery and an ESC that doesn't have to withstand 800000 amps, and while not being really fast? Cause inrunners on 6S are nuts because they are pretty high KV, so why not just use a outrunner that has much lower KV? Would probably be more efficient too, no?
Had my 3s upgrade for 5 days, do go ahead and order the 4s? Okay, ordering now
1: I bought a latrax rally and another brushed sct, but now I am working on upgrading a rally to brushless 3s, so it has doubled its speed, and I have a tacon soar, which I am running on 3s. Totally worth it. 2: I bought a nice set and it's insane. 3: some radios don't have dual rates, so its kinda a pain. 4: I've never used threadlocker but I have also never run on 6s
5: mine isn't externally adjustable, so it is a pain to adjust it, so I just rely on tires as a slipper lol
8: I was running a brushed sct through grass for a half hour run, and my LVC was off, as I was using a nimh. Suddenly, I lost throttle, and apparently my motor got hot enough to de-solder itself
where do I get a bunch of traxxas screws in bulk hate buying from them
Nice info video bro. Thanks
Nice rig, great tips. No more leaving lipo charged up 🔥🔥🔥
Hi Guys i got me some new driveshafts today and they came with some screw on hexes but now i cant Put the wheel nuts on too tight because Then the wheels wont Spin freely. Has anybody a fix for that?( Btw i have a 2wd Rustler
This hit the nail on the head for me. I made ALL those mistakes (new to the hobby obviously).
I think he hit his thumb rather than the nail.
Great video. Btw, do you hv any plan to start playing with 1/8 scale stuff?
Arif Fadzleen unfortunately no, not really anywhere to run 1/8 nearby
I've been looking for a channel that the operator answers questions! I think I've found it.... I was never big into rc's but a few year's ago I bought a used pile of cars, 20yrs ago, and here's what they are. OFNA Titan, and a Titan-twin. I got the single running and drove it around for a day or two just 1 tank total running time. Then I noticed metal shavings around those ⚙ gears you pointed at. 1st am I good to run those gears still or do they have hardened edges and if I run it they'll just grind off. I'm in a small mtn town in Wyoming, and am now disabled. And don't get out much, because of the pain involved. But if I could get with someone who knows these rigs I could probably have some fun....from Wyoming USA 🇺🇸🤠 oh and I picked a traxis something when my daughters boyfriend crashed then abandoned it with her 6-8ish yrs ago..
2 lessons I have learned on my first practice day was 1 get the correct tires for the track trust me the attached hobby shop is not trying to get some money from you... well they do but they would much rather you have a good first experience and become a long time customerrather then make a quick 50 bucks off of you. 2nd take it as slow as possible and slowly increase your speed every pack or 2 you run.
Excellent!!! Well explained and right to the point. I agree with most points. Uhh, yeah, I need to get a temp gun. Been wanting one for very long, but you are right, one of those things that a lot of people, like me, keeps down-prioritized for no good reason, compared to the price. ☺️
Ohh and the video was so good that I Subscribed ☺️😀👍
What does the S stand for in 2s 3s 4s 6s 8s? And why are there no 5S or 7s Motors?
Think it means something else as far as the s, but I do know it's the amount of cells in the battery,
My first rc was a redcat sandstorm with a 2000mah nimh it is underpowered
Hey. Question I know you said it some where but, what parts are needed to put the AE slipper on traxxas slash? Thanks man. Good info as always
I have a video out there that shows the parts.
Awesome video!
Thanks for those tips... But the most.... What kind of tires are those... Can you send me he link where I can get them?
sound advise for sure great starter video ... gotta say though , I do love high power experiments just for fun :)
what is the model and tires in this video?
rustler, proline prime
U should have explained what temperatures not to exceed on electronics and what is normal, etc.
While he could, I think it's a bit beyond the point of the video.
@@alb9022 Really?? It's exactly, in part, what the video is about. What temps should and should not exceed.
@@johnwagner4559 Ehh idk
What car is this? Looks like a losi, but what version?
Great tips.
Altough tips#1 i have to say not only americans overpower their rc's :)
Yea but it's mostly Americans
I've noted many from the UK get an almost neanderthal like joy launching them 30+ft in the air and crash back to earth without a landing ramp. Wouldn't it be simpler just to throw the RC in the air rather than rely on it to motivate itself? I know for a fact they could do it far more often being the RC no longer needed to otherwise function.
Love overpowering my cars. Way more fun than under-powering...(insert crazed laugh Track here.)
I over power my cars but I dont always go full throttle, I just like to know I have a bit more for the pesky long straits
When it comes to wheel nuts. use a little bit of lock tie not a lot but it will keep the nut tight an in place.
Great video here. Great info
i test my heat by touch, after a 6s run for an 45-60 min i can still touch my motor and esc, hottest thing is near where the batteries touch togeather.. maybe its the way i use it?
if the battery connectors are getting hot, that usually means the solder joint is not very good and should be resoldered
@@RazorRC no no I mean where the two packs sit next to eachother, the physical battery not the connectors
pezkiller gotcha. If it’s the batteries are hot, make sure you are using a high enough C rating
@@RazorRC I'm using an arrma Keaton 6s, I have two onyx 3s 5400 60c I was suggested those by my local hobby shop (since he happened to have then in stock probably))
Yep very true. It’s all about having fun, nobody wants to keep fixing there car every five mins. Good tips. Temp guns are cheap well worth getting one of them to. You can use them for a lot of things. Happy rc/ing ppl ✌️😊
Good info..Throttle EPA set up also.
Excellent.
Some good basic info there mate, will help newbies for sure 👍
how to SET THE SLIPPER , hold the back wheels of the car on a flat surface and lightly use the thorttel you want enouh slip to PICK up the front tires 1/4 " or so start " LOSE " then keep tighting until the front tires pick up off the flat surface then your good to go
nice info thanks
Nice video
i bought a 1:58 mini rc. I'm trying to start small...
Good little video i have a 2016 vxl slash run 3s well i though my 3s battery was bad because i run it for 5 min and the red protection light comes on well ordered 2 new batteries and same problem have no clue i geared it for faster then put it back to factory light still comes on ? Any clue
How the hell did that wheel spin for so long? My losi didnt spin like that brand new
Probably ceramic bearings
@@johnnycash7803 Exactly, its pretty impressive how much difference they make. In the build video he said he was upgrading the bearing kit to ceramic while he built the T6.2
Great info. Tips every RC hobbyist should be applying, I know I do.
What are the wheels for??
I learned a lot in this video since im new to the hobby
What model car is that?