Corey Mcgee yea but took to long. A move shock here to get this response B move it here to get this response C move it here to get this response 30 sec video
10min to say what he could of said in 2min. And never actually said how moving it changes the handling of the car. He repeated the same thing for nearly 7min of the video.
I always move my rear shocks in one hole on the tower, I like the gain in roll thru the corners it gives. Sometimes depending on model, I will go in one on the front tower if I need a little more steering. But I generally try to keep the positions on the arms in the middle, that seems to be the most "relaxed" or not so aggressive spot
I watched this to make sure I know what I’m doing. I can in fact confirm, I know more of what I’m doing now. I set up my slash 2wd for on road with the stock shocks and set them inward so there is more travel and I am more able to adjust the preload properly to allow for the load of the car to transfer correctly. It also allows for less weight to be transferred off the inside rear wheel under breaking and turning to allow for better braking in the corner and better acceleration out of them. Next step is softer compound tires and a low cg chassis
Dude I’ve been struggling to find exactly what you have showed today for ages! As someone new to the hobbie things need to be simple so we can progress into it better.
OMFG! Now this is what i want to see more. You make it sound so perfectly clear. Just what @cory mcgee said. Thanks for the quick and simple explanation. No jibberjabber just straight to the point.
Good explanation, The whole video I was waiting for you to go one step further and talk about what it actually does to the cars handling. For example: you move it in on the top and it makes the car do this, move it out, it does this. Thanks for the video!
I always move my rear shocks in one hole on the tower, I like the gain in roll thru the corners it gives. Sometimes depending on model, I will go in one on the front tower if I need a little more steering. But I generally try to keep the positions on the arms in the middle, that seems to be the most "relaxed" or not so aggressive spot
This is interesting but I was left wondering what happens with the springs. You move in and leverage increases for softer but you compress and shorten the spring increasing the preload kind of making it stiffer so you have to keep the preload/length of spring the same by adjusting that for full effect. Also, when you move in you reduce the shock travel length reducing the dampening you get from your oil shocks. That could be adjusted with thicker or thinner oil in the shocks. I'm a rc newb but it's not so simple and it's fun to play with the suspension.
You generally adjust the spring preload collars to get the ride height that you want. So yes, after moving the shocks, you will still need to adjust the preload collars. You are right that when you move the shock in you will reduce droop which will affect how much damping you get from landing jumps.
Nice Video, My 2wd slash I had to move the bottom of the rear shock in to soften it up and kept the front further out for more stiffness, helps in gravel and turning, thats for sure. Pavement, I now get the front wheel lifting off the ground during a fast turn, rear is bit too soft for pavement lol
Watcher keep in mind when moving shock location. Make sure the shock rod doesn’t fully extend a full preload because you will bend shock rods from being over extended. You can adjust the h arm set screws to help shorten the shock rod length
Only thing missing from this video is how the adjustments will effect your ride. Stiffer gives understeer softer gives over steer. Not sure if that’s true I just was giving an example.
I dont know if you have another video but can you go one step further by making the shocks longer and shorter and how that effects it with internal shock spacers or downstops on the outside of the shocks.
I was thinking this too, but maybe since the load is being acted on the tire side having the shock further away from the tire gives the a-arm more leverage if that make sense.
Thank you for the very straight forward and simple explanation... Love it... But I hv a question... I understand when we need the spring softer or harder, can u explain when do we need shocks feels more progressive or feel more linear?
i have a dodge 2500 4x4 with a 10inch lift. ive been wondering all of this because its super bumpy. im fabricating an.airbag set up for the front. the previous owner had switched it over to where the shocks are in a different position far from The Middle .. also there about two times as big as the stock position. I got everything set up for I can get the bags in there but as it is right now the shock mounts will not bolt up to top of the screen buckets .. I was wondering if it would be okay to change the position where they mounted from so that they will attach at a different point .. I think I'm just going to fabricate amounts that are in a totally different position from where they were . your video explained it very well I wish it was a little bit more in depth but that was awesome video thinking
Currently using a Traxxas Slash 4x4 Ultimate and all I do is a lot of jumping with it. So setting the shock on the furthest (away from the center) on the shock tower hole, and the furthest shock hole on the arm would be the best positions for jumping and to help reduce chassis slap?
Does shock mount positions affect ride height? The ride height at the front of my car is too high so need to figure out how to lower it significantly and wondered if changing shock mount position would help.
So with droop. Say I want to increase droop in the front and I’m starting at middle middle top and bottom ..outer hole on top and inner on bottom? Same truck (22t 4.0 btw)
More so appropriately, why there is so much adjustment available.... Is for you to tun the vehicle dynamics to suit your track and your driving style. For me, I'd rather have my chassis clap on the big jumps, so as it doesn't bounce all over the damn place in the fast small bumps. Gotta find the "balance" point for your track and driving style.
I was looking for answers on how to adjust positioning but you didnt go into how these positions actually will affect car control and performance during different maneuvers - i did notice that youve just repeated information again and again in slightly different wording but with no link to stiffness or softness affecting handling. Appreciate the info and just giving some constructive criticism from a viewer and beginner
And when you move the shocks to a new place you can change the preload on the springs or even the spring rate with new spring. Also if you soft the ride but in general like the way it handles you can bump up the weight of the oil. Same goes if you move it out and it’s too stiff but you like the spring rate you can move to a lower weight oil. I got a lot of practice with physics and fulcrums growing up. I was much taller and heavier than my classmates so I had to sit closer to the fulcrum of the see-saw. 😉
The key here is that setups are a clustered effect. I feel confident in saying that 99% of us could not tell a difference in moving the shock arm from T-A to T-B, or even A-B to A-C, etc. The other 1% are liars ha ha. However, it's the setup as a whole the cluster that is what defines the vehicles optimizations. To that end, I only change mount positions if I am driving on-road vs off-road...otherwise it's not that much of a difference maker (even within the cluster). Additionally, so much of this hobby is 'on paper' but in the field the results are completely different. This much I know. :-)
ride height should only be set by spring collar location, screwing the shock collar down increases ride height and vice versa, moving the shock mount location effects how the shock performs throughout the suspensions movement and should never be used for ride height
Linked RC Unsprung weight on the suspension. With the shocks mounted right side up, when the suspension encounters a bump, only the shock shaft has to cycle with the suspension. When you mount the shocks upside down, the entire weight of the shock body and oil is added to the suspension arm, each bump encountered on the track will have to move the entire weight of the shock along with the tire, hub ect ect. Basically makes the suspension less efficient, has to work harder to do the same job. It can stabilize(reduce) how much it rolls since the shocks are some of the tallest weight on the chassis, however I doubt it would be any faster or better driving than the traditional setup.
would have been good to go over how changing the front shocks can change the steering. You just seem to find 10 different ways of saying the same thing, when you move your rear shocks in it makes it a softer shock and when you move them out it a stiffer shock but nothing about the front of the vehicle
Great video, but too much repetition. And you don’t really explain why you would want a softer vehicle, or why you want them more linear vehicle, or why you’d want a more progressive vehicle. What do those words actually mean performance wise. And in what scenario is each better?
the shocks control so many things, that it's hard to explain in a couple of sentences or even one video. Softer will allow more weight transfer to that side of the vehicle which can help with more grip or if that side of the vehicle feels too hard and not compliant enough. Progressive will allow the shock to feel soft initially before it stiffens up, which again allows more initial weight transfer before it loads up and stiffens up to support that side.
Let me put the question this way, if I’m not interested in racing or having strong stability on fast turns but I’m more interested in bashing and setting up my springs so that when coming down hard it is less likely to damage or break something because the shocks are taking the most optimized brunt. Which set up is specialized for that? I would assume the opposite Would be specialized for racing. And in the middle would be the best of both worlds scenario.
Good video. But I'm sooo sick of hearing everybody overusing the word "basically". After hearing it the 15th time in the first 2 mins, it's so hard to concentrate and I just keep waiting for the next time it's said. Ugh.
Fantastic explanation 👍👍 What if the upper holes on the shock tower is further in than the lower control arm inner suspension hinge pin? Softer or harder?
Instead of making something complicated even more complicated, you kept it basic, straightforward & easy to understand.
Thank you! 👍
Corey Mcgee yea but took to long. A move shock here to get this response
B move it here to get this response
C move it here to get this response 30 sec video
10min to say what he could of said in 2min. And never actually said how moving it changes the handling of the car. He repeated the same thing for nearly 7min of the video.
This is the best most accurate description of how shocks work at different angles without using the word “perpendicular”.
You are the definition of a GREAT teacher, I like how you kept it on a low dimension to make it easier for many of us to understand Liked and Subbed!!
Best explanation ever. Was searching for a long time a simple video to understand the basics. And you did it perfectly.
One of the best suspension advice videos ever.
I always move my rear shocks in one hole on the tower, I like the gain in roll thru the corners it gives. Sometimes depending on model, I will go in one on the front tower if I need a little more steering. But I generally try to keep the positions on the arms in the middle, that seems to be the most "relaxed" or not so aggressive spot
I watched this to make sure I know what I’m doing. I can in fact confirm, I know more of what I’m doing now. I set up my slash 2wd for on road with the stock shocks and set them inward so there is more travel and I am more able to adjust the preload properly to allow for the load of the car to transfer correctly. It also allows for less weight to be transferred off the inside rear wheel under breaking and turning to allow for better braking in the corner and better acceleration out of them. Next step is softer compound tires and a low cg chassis
This really helped me to understand what happens when changing shock positions. Thank you
This was massively helpful and the clearest explanation. Thank you so much.
just got into rc racing and just doubled my knowledge in 10min! great video, can you do one on tires please!!
Dude I’ve been struggling to find exactly what you have showed today for ages! As someone new to the hobbie things need to be simple so we can progress into it better.
OMFG! Now this is what i want to see more. You make it sound so perfectly clear. Just what @cory mcgee said. Thanks for the quick and simple explanation. No jibberjabber just straight to the point.
Good explanation, The whole video I was waiting for you to go one step further and talk about what it actually does to the cars handling. For example: you move it in on the top and it makes the car do this, move it out, it does this. Thanks for the video!
I always move my rear shocks in one hole on the tower, I like the gain in roll thru the corners it gives. Sometimes depending on model, I will go in one on the front tower if I need a little more steering. But I generally try to keep the positions on the arms in the middle, that seems to be the most "relaxed" or not so aggressive spot
This is interesting but I was left wondering what happens with the springs. You move in and leverage increases for softer but you compress and shorten the spring increasing the preload kind of making it stiffer so you have to keep the preload/length of spring the same by adjusting that for full effect. Also, when you move in you reduce the shock travel length reducing the dampening you get from your oil shocks. That could be adjusted with thicker or thinner oil in the shocks. I'm a rc newb but it's not so simple and it's fun to play with the suspension.
You generally adjust the spring preload collars to get the ride height that you want. So yes, after moving the shocks, you will still need to adjust the preload collars. You are right that when you move the shock in you will reduce droop which will affect how much damping you get from landing jumps.
Basically a basic concept that basically behaves basically like a lever that basically does basic stuff....basically
Nice Video, My 2wd slash I had to move the bottom of the rear shock in to soften it up and kept the front further out for more stiffness, helps in gravel and turning, thats for sure. Pavement, I now get the front wheel lifting off the ground during a fast turn, rear is bit too soft for pavement lol
Older video, same good info. Thank you.
Soldering iron works well. Use fat tip and apply to fastener (screw/bolt) you wish to remove that has loctite.
Thanks for explaining all that. Makes sense to me now.
What are the best shock absorber positions for jumping and gravel riding? For slash 4x4 for example.
My suspension is way too inconstant. I will make these changes right now! Thanks :D
Watcher keep in mind when moving shock location. Make sure the shock rod doesn’t fully extend a full preload because you will bend shock rods from being over extended. You can adjust the h arm set screws to help shorten the shock rod length
Thanks for making the video, makes sense now.
Very helpful, I like how u explained how it all works. Thanks dude!
Only thing missing from this video is how the adjustments will effect your ride. Stiffer gives understeer softer gives over steer. Not sure if that’s true I just was giving an example.
Great job. Very easy to understand your awesome tutorial.
I dont know if you have another video but can you go one step further by making the shocks longer and shorter and how that effects it with internal shock spacers or downstops on the outside of the shocks.
Wouldn’t you have more leverage the further you are from a fulcrum, in turn making it easier to compress giving it a softer suspension setup/feel.
I was thinking this too, but maybe since the load is being acted on the tire side having the shock further away from the tire gives the a-arm more leverage if that make sense.
Thank you for the very straight forward and simple explanation... Love it... But I hv a question... I understand when we need the spring softer or harder, can u explain when do we need shocks feels more progressive or feel more linear?
Well explained
right to the point thank you
Drinking game - take a drink every time he says basically lol...BUT a great explanation...ty for making this video...
Man I love just chilling out and learning something new from you every week! Cheers Razor RC! 🍻
Thanks for checking out the video! You guys have been killing it on your channel,, have a great weekend.
@@RazorRC cheers mate! Off to the track tomorrow to get some practice in with the TA B6.2d! 😁 have a great weekend too! 🍻
forward to 2:48 to get to the point. I swear these utubers love to hear themselves talk
Look on tender then...
Good information I sent this video to a few off-road racers:)
Great video! Really helps explain the fundamentals of shocks and positioning.
Question, could you overcome some of this with stroke length?
Thank you very much!!!
Well done :)
So if you had a lot of bumps and jumps you would mount to the inside and if you were going for speed on flat straights to the outside?
Very nicely detailed 👌🤟
Good work, thanks!
i have a dodge 2500 4x4 with a 10inch lift. ive been wondering all of this because its super bumpy. im fabricating an.airbag set up for the front. the previous owner had switched it over to where the shocks are in a different position far from The Middle .. also there about two times as big as the stock position. I got everything set up for I can get the bags in there but as it is right now the shock mounts will not bolt up to top of the screen buckets .. I was wondering if it would be okay to change the position where they mounted from so that they will attach at a different point .. I think I'm just going to fabricate amounts that are in a totally different position from where they were . your video explained it very well I wish it was a little bit more in depth but that was awesome video thinking
Thats a great example
Very informative video thanks !
Thank you. Learned a lot
All good I actually learned something from your video
curious to know who you got this in depth view of physics. excellent job coaching us.
And also by doing that move to to outside hole it’s more likely to be a looser set up.
So for asphalt racing I want it to be all the way on the outest holes?
DJ AidonYG if it’s sliding too much, go in on the top holes. If it’s rolling too much go out.
Thanks for the Info..
Thank you for the info..
Really useful vid, thank you
Awesome Video! You just got a new subscriber!
I got all my questions answered before 4 minutes mark
Hi where did you get tha screws for suspension arm
Thank you!
Awesome advice
Whats the top piece called that you put the screw or whatever in the top part of a shock I hace a redcat blackout xte pro
Currently using a Traxxas Slash 4x4 Ultimate and all I do is a lot of jumping with it. So setting the shock on the furthest (away from the center) on the shock tower hole, and the furthest shock hole on the arm would be the best positions for jumping and to help reduce chassis slap?
What the difference between putting the on the opposite side
If I lay down my rear shocks, will it increase traction at the rear or vice versa?
What about the turning knob of the the shock ?
Would this make it slightly taller
What experiences do you have by fitting the shocks in front of the a-arms?
Basically! 😙
Thank you.
Basically just basically, basic....... basically.
Hey it's hard not re using the same words with filming. My favorite one i use is ummmm
That's not a word..
Wow your parents might be Perfectionists😂
Does shock mount positions affect ride height? The ride height at the front of my car is too high so need to figure out how to lower it significantly and wondered if changing shock mount position would help.
Remove preload spacers or raise the preload collars.
@@RazorRC Thanks for the quick response.
Don't know if this was asked already, but do these rules apply to solid axle as well?
So with droop. Say I want to increase droop in the front and I’m starting at middle middle top and bottom ..outer hole on top and inner on bottom? Same truck (22t 4.0 btw)
if you just want to increase droop, remove some internal plastic washer limiters from the front shocks.
Great video!
What do you recommend for a 1/5 modified n latemodel shock step-up for a circle track??
Could u pls help me in one question ?
What is 10,10,7 shock location?
I got no idea which angle is 10 10 7
Those sound like diff fluids (10k front, 10k middle, 7k rear), not shock locations.
@@RazorRC thanks a lot
Appreciate .
Is making the arms stiffer better for jumps? or would you want it soft for jumps?
okay thank you for replying because i was really lost and did not know what to do. Im kinda new to rc but im learning
More so appropriately, why there is so much adjustment available.... Is for you to tun the vehicle dynamics to suit your track and your driving style. For me, I'd rather have my chassis clap on the big jumps, so as it doesn't bounce all over the damn place in the fast small bumps. Gotta find the "balance" point for your track and driving style.
I was looking for answers on how to adjust positioning but you didnt go into how these positions actually will affect car control and performance during different maneuvers - i did notice that youve just repeated information again and again in slightly different wording but with no link to stiffness or softness affecting handling. Appreciate the info and just giving some constructive criticism from a viewer and beginner
And when you move the shocks to a new place you can change the preload on the springs or even the spring rate with new spring. Also if you soft the ride but in general like the way it handles you can bump up the weight of the oil. Same goes if you move it out and it’s too stiff but you like the spring rate you can move to a lower weight oil.
I got a lot of practice with physics and fulcrums growing up. I was much taller and heavier than my classmates so I had to sit closer to the fulcrum of the see-saw. 😉
The key here is that setups are a clustered effect. I feel confident in saying that 99% of us could not tell a difference in moving the shock arm from T-A to T-B, or even A-B to A-C, etc. The other 1% are liars ha ha. However, it's the setup as a whole the cluster that is what defines the vehicles optimizations. To that end, I only change mount positions if I am driving on-road vs off-road...otherwise it's not that much of a difference maker (even within the cluster).
Additionally, so much of this hobby is 'on paper' but in the field the results are completely different. This much I know. :-)
Did you count how many times did you say "Actually"?
@@lucasalati369 actually I did not. Did you?
Moving the shocks in towards the pivot will raise the ride height. Moving away from the pivot will lower ride height.
Razor RC I know....the change it ride height is normally minimal but it is still something to be aware of.
ride height should only be set by spring collar location, screwing the shock collar down increases ride height and vice versa, moving the shock mount location effects how the shock performs throughout the suspensions movement and should never be used for ride height
If ur doing straight speed run what’s recommended ???
Does any of this affect the height of the car ?
Yes, recheck your ride height after changing shock location
That has to be a new record for the word BASICALLY being used!
Have you considered putting the shocks upside down to lower center of gravity? Shocks are upside down on motorcycles and MTBs for example.
Linked RC Unsprung weight on the suspension. With the shocks mounted right side up, when the suspension encounters a bump, only the shock shaft has to cycle with the suspension. When you mount the shocks upside down, the entire weight of the shock body and oil is added to the suspension arm, each bump encountered on the track will have to move the entire weight of the shock along with the tire, hub ect ect. Basically makes the suspension less efficient, has to work harder to do the same job. It can stabilize(reduce) how much it rolls since the shocks are some of the tallest weight on the chassis, however I doubt it would be any faster or better driving than the traditional setup.
The upside down shocks on a bike is the same principle as the cars less weight on the arm so it’s more responsive
Clear explanation but I would like to hear more about how it affects the ride. How do I prevent my car from flipping on turns???
Tks GOD BLESS YOU
👍
would have been good to go over how changing the front shocks can change the steering.
You just seem to find 10 different ways of saying the same thing, when you move your rear shocks in it makes it a softer shock and when you move them out it a stiffer shock but nothing about the front of the vehicle
+Razor RC so your saying changing your shock position has no affect on steering it just changes your shock stiffness?
+Razor RC you needed that explain that on your video, after all it's important and its only take a couple of to explain,
Great video, but too much repetition. And you don’t really explain why you would want a softer vehicle, or why you want them more linear vehicle, or why you’d want a more progressive vehicle. What do those words actually mean performance wise. And in what scenario is each better?
the shocks control so many things, that it's hard to explain in a couple of sentences or even one video. Softer will allow more weight transfer to that side of the vehicle which can help with more grip or if that side of the vehicle feels too hard and not compliant enough. Progressive will allow the shock to feel soft initially before it stiffens up, which again allows more initial weight transfer before it loads up and stiffens up to support that side.
Let me put the question this way, if I’m not interested in racing or having strong stability on fast turns but I’m more interested in bashing and setting up my springs so that when coming down hard it is less likely to damage or break something because the shocks are taking the most optimized brunt. Which set up is specialized for that? I would assume the opposite Would be specialized for racing. And in the middle would be the best of both worlds scenario.
Good video. But I'm sooo sick of hearing everybody overusing the word "basically". After hearing it the 15th time in the first 2 mins, it's so hard to concentrate and I just keep waiting for the next time it's said. Ugh.
Mmmmh, crab legs!
Dude your lip smacking stop
It all sounds very basic... 😎👍
50 thumb up!! One is not enough
This was useless, you choose not to help anybody with this video, which is why you need to make nutcracker jokes.
Just a bunch of blabber
Fantastic explanation 👍👍
What if the upper holes on the shock tower is further in than the lower control arm inner suspension hinge pin? Softer or harder?
Ty my same thoughts all that formula stuff gives me a headache👋👋👋👋👋✌✌✌✌✌✌✌🎈🎉🎈🎉🎈🎉🎉🎉🎈🎉😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
Thanks , never understood this
This really helped me to understand what happens when changing shock positions. Thank you