ARRMA 6S DIFFERENTIAL REPAIRS MAINTENANCE AND NOISES.
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
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Was chasing the noise in mine and thought it was the rear diff so I cleaned it up and checked teeth and it was good. When I got to the front and center I found a pin in both broke. Sometimes they break in half or 3 pieces. Also when they break they can jam and not free spin which can throw you off unless you've come across it before and check all inner pieces. Everytime I had to rebuild a diff I kept all the good parts and eventually have a full spare to use in the future. So the Notorious Outcast has a good bill of health now. 🤙 I know with this video you will be helping a lot of people as it will give others the confidence to look over everything and things they wouldn't have thought of. First thing to do when checking diff is to wiggle the drive cups on each side of the diff. If you get play in the cup as you move it, time to check everything else while your replacing a pin. And for others, the little hole in the diff cup where the little grub is, is so you can take the grub out and use the hole to insert the bottom pin then replace grub.
🤜🤛 And make sure to clean and get all debris from any broken teeth or pins or you will be taring it apart again.
side note, make sure you put the diff back the rite way round other wise the wheels will spin the wrong way round 😊
Lol yes
I cant tell you how beneficial this advice was. I had been wracking my brain trying to figure out what the hell I did wrong after topping off the Mojave 6s front diff given that the wheels were going backwards and because of your advice, I now know! I stupidly reinstalled them incorrectly. What a foolish mistake and one that I should have been able to figure out but didn't. Thanks again!
yeah happened to me just a few days ago. 😂
Great guide. Very easy to follow and more importantly, listen to.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
Absolute Rockstar of a video! My son and I just got a "new to us" Notorious and it threw the right front driveshaft 3 times in our first bash session. Super frustrating, but this video was helpful in understanding the diff and possible causes. The drive cup is pretty beat up and also has a bit of play, so it will be interesting to see what we find when we get the diff opened up. We'll post if we find something helpful. Thanks for the video!
That’s awesome to hear, buddy. I love hearing these kind of things where the videos were helpful to somebody.
Thank you a lot for this video. Great work. As a total new one in the RC Game im glad someone is showing how to do stuff with the ARRMA 6S series. I got a Notorious but it works the same so im glad i can watch and learn. Anyways videos like this are gold cause you wont find videos where its done step by step.... very hard to find. And the Manual is not well written for newbies like me. Shoutout to you and hope you will make more videos like this on cars and how to dekonstruct and reassemble them
I’m really glad the video was helpful buddy I enjoy putting together these kind of videos and I’m glad to hear they’re helpful. I know I wish these videos existed when I first started.
Truly, a FANTASTIC video on checking & rebuilding diffs. The next time I do a video referencing diffs, b I'm going to place a link in the description to lead people to this video.
Two tips is like to suggest:
1) In removing a shock, to screws the diff housing, instead of switching the shock from the suspension arm, v it's almost always better to detached from the shock tower end. The reason is that most suspension arms are plastic, and every time a screw is inserted/removed, it has the potential to weaken that area. Eventually, the threading will give, the shock's lower mount won't hold, and it'll be time to get a new suspension arm. In removing the shock attachment at the tower end, the worst thing getting ruined in a Nylock nut, which is a lot easier, and cheaper, to replace.
2) Regarding the outdrives, while yours did need to be replaced, such isn't always the case. Sometimes, it can look as if the outdrive is "spreading apart", but what can actually be happening is just that material is getting removed from all the 'forward' motion of the vehicle. If one side is perfectly straight, and the other side has "indented wear", a simple (and free) solution is to just swap sides of the outdrives...disassemble the diff, move the outdrives to the opposite sides that they were on, and reassemble the diff. Now, each of the outdrives will have the driveshaft's CVD pin pressing against the other side of the outdrive. By doing this, instead of replacing the outdrives, you double the usable life of the outdrives. If course, if the outdrives are actually spreading apart, as yours were, them replacing them is the best option.
i love working on these diffs haha, installed the m2c little tiny pins to replace the Arrma pins in All 6 diffs of my typhon6s and kratonexb the other day, upvoted!!!
There is a certain enjoyment and relaxation on tearing these apart and working on them. Thank you my friend I appreciate it.
Them m2c pins make a world of difference when you start driving hard and / or adding power.
When i think about shimming diffs, i also put shims behind those 4 gears that ride on sun gear. 😉 I went through my brand new fireteam before running and changed to 200,000 in front and 500,000 in rear and center. I think it is team accociated oil so diff numbers. Nice n thick for big rig 😉 anyways got whole truck back together and noticed play in-between two cups on diff ☹️ i forgot to shim those 4 small gears. Gotta rip it all back apart and shim them all. Took me 10 hrs first time with hand tools. I will be using one of my small electric drivers for next time 😁 great video man!!
This is a superb video! Thank you for taking the time to make it!
Thanks for watching bud.
That’s a great in depth video David.I like to use tekno shims they are thinner then the arrma ones so you can shim them tighter easier without binding 😎
Yeah I have used them before but I’m out atm.
WOW! Whan an awesome video! thanks so much for taking the time to share this!!!!
Thanks buddy
That's a fab video for all the new guys DJ a lot of people come across these problems and don't know what to do but this video goes over everything just perfectly so hats off to u bro good job 🤙👏👏👏
Thank you buddy I was hoping I put enough info in here so that people weren’t quite as scared to tear these things apart and fix it and diagnose the problem
@BarstoneRC bro that video was perfect for a newbies I wish I saw videos like this wen I 1st started lol I learnt the hard way 🤣🤣🤣 u did good DJ 👏👏👏🤙🤘
Fantastic tutorial.
Thank you very much for taking the time to do this. Great lighting as well.
Thanks man I appreciate it
Thank you so much for this video. I’m new to rc and my diff cup got sheered so this video was a life saver
That’s awesome man that’s what I love to hear that the videos are helpful
Great video! I just bought my first RC car, Typhon 6s RTR. This is great to learn what to check but I don't know what you mean about the ear plugs in a diff. Guess I need to research that. Thank you for taking time to show these points.
Thanks for stopping in I appreciate it but what I mean by the earplugs they sell silicone earplugs on Amazon and you replace the fluid in the center differential and squish the earplugs in the gears and it locks it up, but still allows a little bit of give
I cannot get that pin for the life of me. You got so lucky it just slipped out for you.
They can be a real pain sometimes for sure
Hello dj did you know that Mugen diffs are built much heavier, and fit right in the typhoon diff case
No I had no idea they did??
@@BarstoneRC but you have to use the spiral cut 13 tooth pinion for an armma
Just a little FYI , but anyone buying an ARRMA should check your diffs to make sure they have the proper amount of grease and fluid in them cause mine along with many others barley had any grease in both the front and back. I think ARRMA is bad about not putting enough in them from the get go .
Yeah, they have been famous for not putting enough grease in the differentials for quite a while
Great video. Just what I needed. Learned a lot. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching bud.
Great content!!!!!!
Thanks!! 😊
Great job
really great video, thanks! Would love to see maybe a shock maintanance/oil change
Great suggestion! Thanks
One thing to look for before assembly. The output cup end should be flush with the gear.
And as far as the input pinion gear. Put loctite on the shaft and in the cup. Very important imo. Get video ya know
Good tips also
Great video, new person here!!
Well thanks for stopping in. I appreciate you watching.
I like how you explain details to details I need help on fixing steering on a arrma notorious 6s v5 blx just got it and already lost steering servo moves with the mount even with an upgraded aluminum mount but when I lift car up I get the steering back but the servo still moves with the mount had this for 2 almost 3 weeks and only played with it for 20 min I don’t wanna feel like I wasted almost 600$ on my first big scale rc 😔
So when the car is sitting on the ground, the servo moves, but the car doesn’t? If that’s the case, most likely, your servo saver is way too loose. I don’t think I ever put together a video on this but there’s some out there on how to tighten them up. It’s not too hard.
@@BarstoneRC yea and ok
Nice video!
You should try 30k at the back and 60k up front, the car naturally bogs down at the rear giving the back wheels more resistance and most of the power gets sent to the front wheels,
heavier oil in the front mitigates this.
And I was wondering if the sun-gear you got there is interchangeable with the EXB sun-gear?
As you probably know, the back side is different, the one you have in the vid looks biffier with just the one pin slot.
The EXB has an "X" shaped slot, and that's where min keeps breaking, My pin doesn't break, my pin breaks the sun-gear...😐
Thank again for a great video.
I don’t think I’ve ever tried to use, or interchange the sun gear between the two differentials. I’m honestly not sure on that.
Ok thx.. If anyone else knows, please let me know.
Man this really summed up everything I needed to know! Besides one thing, should you put that red tacky on the center diff?
No, I don’t grease the center diff gear. Occasionally hit it with a tiny bit of WD-40 and that’s about it.
@@BarstoneRC thank you! I’m sure I’m not the only one who probably think about that hahaha lol I’m new to the hobby so I really appreciate your advice! Have a good one sir!
great information and maintenance
Glad you think so!
Mine sounds in the front but I open the diff and it was fine no broken teeth or cracks
Make sure you look closely at teeth. The whole tooth won’t break off just the very tip of it.
Wallet looking at this video like NO! NO! NO! NO! NO!! NO!!!
Also I give this video a 10/10 5 stars! Best explanation of the system especially the shims those shims is what I had in mine and I'll make sure to shim them up also open up the diffs and drive-train ima change the fluids to maybe 200k at diffs and 1,000,000 at middle main diff. 😉
@chilloganzuyt that’s awesome buddy I’m glad you like the video. I had fun putting it together.
Great info 👍🏽 what’s your go to cleaner for heavily greased parts like this?
Break cleaner but it has to be the flammable kind or it don’t work very well. Gumout is a good one.
I use White lithium Grease on my gears
Hi just happen to find your video 😸 i have a question i just bought the super bash bumper from armma for my typhon TLR how did u mount the back 2 screws at the bottom? There are 2 holes on the chassis but nothing to mount it too😅 did you add a nut and tighten it?
Are use small screws with nuts
@@BarstoneRC thanks for the quick reply 😺 i will add nuts to the screws 😁
Great video man!!! Very detailed!
Thanks bud
What size shims fit on the differentials for the middle and front and rear?
I’m honestly not sure of the size they come stock with Armas
Great tips
Thanks
The extra shims that come with the truck is only for the differential only ???
Yes
@@BarstoneRC so I can’t put it behind the lil spiral gear ⚙️
@NeighberhoodRC if you’re talking about the one that drives it no
I’m sorry if I’m just not seeing it. But did you a video on the center diff? I’m running a new kraton 6s and having all kinds of issues with it. Steering linkage screw came out and lost 2nd battery run 4th battery charge servo quit replaced that and 5th battery changed and wing stand off broke on a 2 foot high jump at 10mph 🤦 so about 8th charge on battery and drive train is just really loud.. no clicking but more like a chain saw noise. Seems to be central diff . I’m just going to break this thing down over the weekend and see what I can do about this thing. I’m not sure if I just got a Friday afternoon built one but really problematic unit to be having so many issues in 5 days running and only during my lunch break at work lol. Any suggestions would be awesome.
Well, you should be able to easily see the gear on your center differential if it looks chewed up if it doesn’t look chewed up and it makes the noise when you hit the gas it’s probably your rear differential
great video, sub!
Much appreciated!
Great info for new hobbiests! Did you say you get that car up to 85 - 90mph with that stock spektrum system? 😮😮😮
Yeah, my top speed with this when I was doing speed runs was 98 mph with the stock system with just gearing
@BarstoneRC Did you have heat issues? I really don't know how much abuse the 6s spektrum system can take. I typically pull the guts out and run castle MMX8S esc's with 1520 or 1717 motors. I love the logging ability of the esc's but I'm really curious to see a real head to head comparison of the stock spectrum systems vs aftermarket kits.
@reconrc1787 I’m not sure if I got a special system, but I have beat the holy hell out of the system and it just keeps on running after a couple passes she would start to get pretty warm but nothing terrible but I was just doing speed runs at the time
Lsd, limited slip differential