Thank you so much. This helped me dramatically. I didnt know that those D shaped end pieces didnt get used. I was going nuts😅😅😅. Thanks again good friend
Yeah the notty will shred the plastic ones when doing wheelies 😂 by far the best upgrade for the center diff and relatively inexpensive as well, glad you like the video and all the best to you 👍👍
@@larrytemen4789 No, not true, not plastic to metal or plastic to plastic. Only metal to metal as Loctite will eventually make plastic brittle when exposed to it. No need for plastic for metal because the plastic swells around the screw head when you tighten it down acting like a lock.
Just wanted to send you a HUGE THANK YOU for this informational vid. We run our 6s line on 8s and we were breaking pins on every run. You have made our 6s line GREAT again.LOL. Keep up the good work. Tell your kids we said Hey and keep up the good driving.
great info bro, I’m going to put the hr diff case on my kraton soon ive got it already but haven’t had much chance to wrench 🔧 . Thanks this video was really helpful 😎👌
Awesome video. Got my kraton 6s exb this past fall. Only drove it a few times. No issues besides a few broken parts, shock stand off and rear a arm. Fixing all that, going through all the diffs and then putting the aluminum center diff. This is going to be very helpful.
Thank you, glad you liked it and it helped you with your build. You managed to get the EXB before the discontinued it for some strange reason - best car Arrma made
I use .0894 tig welding tungsten’s for my pins. They are literally indestructible. You could run 50HP through them and they won’t bat an eye. Obviously I cut them down to size.
I know this is an older video, but have been gathering parts for a new Typhon to Senton 6s conversion and am on the fence on getting either these, or more of HR's modular cups. The HR allows the use of the steel plates behind the spider/satellite gears...and I prefer that. But the end-caps aren't as robust as ARRMA's. Decisions. I just don't like the idea of those steel pins (that the spider gears rotate on) torquing against bare aluminum over time. The steel plates protect the inside of the cups. The HR O-Rings are a pain, but I have a method for working with them with success. Plus, many think the O-Rings replace the gasket....they don't. You need to use both gasket and O-Ring. I wonder how these ARRMA modular cups have faired over time.
Not had any issues with them wearing to be honest, with all the silicon in there they are still like new, i guess the real test would be to be doing lots and lots of long wheelies to really stress out the centre diff. Plus in real terms these are pretty cheap so if they do wear in a few years its easy to replace
@@HardcoreRC Well, that tells me enough. I changed my mind and will go more of a budget build and keep the stockers front/rear, along with the plastic bulkheads. I've never run the stock stuff, but will definitely get ARRMA's aluminum for the center. I haven't let any stock stuff have a chance to break. V5 SWB chassis, stock stamped shock towers chopped to fit the Senton's body mounts, un-used Spektrum servo from a V5 Kraton when they first came out etc. Should be interesting. Thanks for the reply. 👊🏻
@@HardcoreRC great! thank you! So, I do not need to buy anything extra? I can just use my existing gears, o rings, shims, etc, right? I am pretty positive I know the answer, but would like to hear it from a pro :)
@@LulaPlays lol,, not sure i would call myself a pro, but i have changed a few of these cases over now 👍😂 for the center diff you shouldn't need anything else. If doing the front or rear its worth having the shims on hand just in case you need to remove any play
@@HardcoreRC thank you! Going to my Hobby Store here in a bit to see if they have the case...I also need the Diff cover, as that plastic piece melted as well :)
@@HardcoreRC thank you! just ordered on Ebay...but also ordered some FastEddy Bearings..figure I might as well change them to something a bit better while I have the center diff apart.
When I added the shim into the crown gear bearing drive cup it’s not as smooth and it’s binding up a bit. I saw you had no issues w that last part. Without the extra shim on the outside it’s pretty smooth but when I add it, it’s wanting to bind. Do you have nay input as to why that’s happening thanks.
Hi Dave. I have one of these diff housings for my tlr build, and it has a little play. I can't shim it where the cups are as they are already perfect. I noticed you added an extra shim either side of your planetary gears, (the little gears), where they sit next to the aluminium housing. They already have one on all four sides and I need another four to tighten everything up. Thanks to Arrma changing their website, I can't find a part number for them. Can you help?
i would recommend you buy the EXB over the V5, it will be way way way cheaper in the long run as has most of the upgrades already, EXB also has stronger diffs
@@HardcoreRC Watched awhile ago and been meaning to do this upgrade on my centre but was chaning the oil and fixing a rear outdrive and noticed it's bit was broken as well but it was stil turning properly. So decided to do that one and ordered another for the centre.. really wanna cut up some drill pieces as hate that slop and is a good idea, especially with the extra power I just added... Dremel is next thing on my list but couldn't find blanks.. may just have to cut the smooth parts off some actual drill bits :P
@@brei.z Where do you live for the blanks ? but as you said actual drill bits will work, just means you cant use all of it though so blanks can be better
@@brei.z If in the USA you can get the blank from here: www.mcmaster.com/2900A239/ if in the UK i link to where to get the blanks from in the description
@@HardcoreRC I'm In Australia :P But that did help thanks. Just copied that exact Product name into google and got better results than the last time I tried :) .. dam, already ordered a set of normal pins.
The washer/shim you put underneath the sun gear (the one that is larger in diameter compared to stock) is it thicker than the stock one as well? I saw on the package it was 0.20mm. I'm just wondering since I just use the stock one when rebuilding my differentials.
It doesnt work with the limited slip diffs, however Vitavo have one that does work, i show it in this video but with a 44t spur, the stock LSD 50t spur also fits ruclips.net/video/PCqv9Cs_Rr4/видео.html
Hi this is good 😊👍 can you tell me do I need to double shim all 4 small side gears I can only hear you mentioning putting 2 shims on only 2 small gears
To be honest each one will be different as they all have their different tolerances, no two case or gears will be identical size wise. Best to just test before filling with oil, i only needed to put a shim behind two of the gears, if i did it behind all 4 it was to tight
@@HardcoreRC Ok thanks I understand what you say 😊,I actually got a shock when I received my new Arrma metal casing I thought they sent me the wrong one as it looks totally different than the stock plastic one then I watched your vid and you explained what parts to remove,thanks again 😊👍
@@HardcoreRC Thanks man 😊 yes I agree no choice really,I burnt my center diff out in 30mins from being new ,completely ripped opened the diff casing and melted the bearing mount also so got metal one now and leaked oil from front and rear diffs so seeing your vid I'm doing all diffs with better oil,thanks 😊👍
@@paulcooper7162 Likely due to Arrma not actually putting enough diff oil in out the factory, a common issue with them. Rubbish QC currently. Would suggest going with either 300,000 CST or 500,000 CST in the centre diff, then 50,000 cst at the front and 30,000 cst at the rear
Great video, thanks for taking the time to post this. Saved me a lot of time. Will the aluminum diff case work with the hot racing aluminum bulk head? My input gear is running on the diff case when tightened down. Any suggestions?
Yes they should fit as all the exteriors are the same size. When you say input gear do you mean the little gear in the diff bulkhead or the bigger gear that's on the diff case (the gear on the right in my thumbnail)?
@@HardcoreRC hello, I am referring to the smaller gear that goes through the bulkhead (10t spiral cut gear part ara310979). When I place the hot racing rear bull head cover onto the hot racing bulkhead, the Arrma aluminum diff seems to fit just fine with no rubbing. Until I screw the rear cover down all the way, then the input gear hits the Arrma aluminum diff cover and it binds.
@@Stonew24 make sure there are no shims behind the bearing in the diff bulkhead and then make sure that both those bearings are fully seated in the bulkhead. Then when you do the grub screw up make sure the pinion is pulled all the way through and stays tight to the bearing
@@HardcoreRC thank you. Unfortunately it looks like the diff housing is wider than the stick plastic diff cups and when the hot racing bull head is tightened, the diff cup binds with the ring gear. Was hoping this would work but seems to be to snug. I didn’t have any shims to remove and it was still too tight. Thanks for your help though
No the EXB ones only work with the EXB spiral gears and internals, You can fit EXB diffs to the Typhon would would also need to change the input gear, the crown gear and the outdrives etc. Easiest way to do it is buy the complete unit from Jennys RC, would also need to do front and rear as they have a different gear ratio to stock typhon
@@HardcoreRC I’m running 8s & just shredded all 3 diffs, Do you think the LSD would get destroyed faster being limited slip & all that torque from 8s, I thought it would so I just bought the stock diffs & rebuilt & shinned them, But my 1650kv motor burned out & started smoking soon as I got the diffs done lol always something 😂
When my kraton was stock never had issues installed metal center case and 500k diff fluid and then I snapped a diff pin in front diff and rear diff.. im running 60k front 200k center and 30k rear.. and I tried adding more satellite shims and im getting a clicking noise I feel like im chasing my tail at this point. And I've added those aluminum cases front and rear.. but I didn't double the shims on the drive cup like u did.. any advise would be great..
is it a V4 Kraton ? likely the clicking is coming from the main gear and input gear they are a pain like that, really need to shim the outside bearing so there is no movement. But you could be chasing your tail and might be better to just upgrade to the EXB diff on the rear and the EXB input gear
@@HardcoreRC yes its a V4.. only issues I've had with any of my 6s center diffs is they like to leak.. ive thought about upgrading to exb but alot of people had issues shimming them...and they aren't cheap.. but I've put alot of money into this issue so far.. when my drive pins broke I believe they were both on the ring gear side and I also shattered the star gear and tweaked the output shafts as well... I had to pound em out the ring gears.. ive thought about using the mugan shims instead of the arrma shims on the satellite gears as well...I don't know the part #.. I haven't opened em back up to See what's going on as of yet.. but it seems like the truck has more power then it used to.. when jumping it or holding it up and full trigger it balloons the tires like 8s.. lol.. and it has proline badlands non belted as well.. stock gearing..
Thanks. No the LSD plates dont fit in this diff case, Arrma dont make an Ali case for the 29mm size that takes the LSD plates, however you can get a Vitavon one: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284455536009?hash=item423adf0589:g:xhMAAOSwgSBgAaXT
This is only for the normal 6s diffs - it would fit in the EXB diff bulkhead as that is same as standard bulhead, but but you would need all the normal 6s gears (pinion, crown, sun and satalite gears) - the diff case doesnt work with the EXB gears
Hi sorry to bother you I'm doing this install now and I'm confused I watched your vid which is very useful as I was doing it wrong lol. I've done everything u have except shimming the gears on the inside of the diff. I was just wondering should u still have play on the drive shafts more from the bottom of casing than the main drive gear end any ideas or new shafts lol thanks much appreciated
Thats ok - yes there is still some play, dont have to shim the inside of the diff, this was the only one i did shim and i have fitted these to most of my cars now. How much play are you talking about ?
@@HardcoreRC thanks for the reply mate.. Well top main gear on top very minimal. I expected abit of play in them to be honest but the bottom maybe 2/3 mm way more than top of diff is that normal lol.. I only swapped to the alloy casing as the standard composite one the bearing gromet had failed and loose so thinking it might have worn the shaft down.. thanks again
@@mattwillis7885 Yes a little bit of play like 2 - 3 mm is normally - you can take a bit of it up with a washer / shim between the bearing and cup on the output - should already be one washer there already.
@@HardcoreRC ok cool yea there is already one shim / washer on the output I did try 2 but wouldn't move so back to just the one. Well I appreciate the help thanks to you it's back in the truck. Will definetly subscribe to your channel you've been great help thanks HardcoreR
It'd be nice if you linked the gasket, O-rings, and shims lol I know the shims I can search from the part# you held up, but what about the O-rings and gaskets?
I didnt link as you already have the gaskets and o rings, you just take them out your old plastic diff case and use them in the aluminium diff case, O rings and gaskets are the same as stock. It would be nice of you said thank you for taking the time to do the how to video !!!!!!
@@HardcoreRC You're right im sorry haha Thank you! Thing is, im almost 100% sure my center anf rear didnt come with gaskets. Front did. So im wondering if they forgot to put them in there from the factory lol
@@RUZTY1311 I did yes, you can see it sitting the the crown gear. Generally when you take the diffs apart you find the gasket stays in the gear side, i tend to leave it there so as not to damage it trying to get it out
That's a very good question - looking on Arrma site is doesn't show it as a compatible model: www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA220050 however if you then look at the Arrma Senton 6s parts and click on the diff case for the Senton 6s it appears to be the same as all the other 6s cars and is listed as compatible so therefore should fit: www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310433
If you don't get these and you bash very hard, there is a bushing pressed into the plastic half of case.. becomes loose and wobbly over time causing even more issues. Ask me how I know😒. -🤣
It looks good in the center diff 😂😂 in all seriousness though, dissipates heat better, less likely to melt, harder wearing, much better tolerances, easier to access both sides of the diff, to name just a few advantages
Just realized after watching most of this that the thumbnail is wrong lol just a heads up you have a center diff on thumbnail and your building a rear/ front diff
Less likely for any movement under extreme stress, less likely for stones etc to cause damage, when diffs get used a lot (one side spinning more than the other, like pulling wheelies etc) the diff will heat up plastic diff cases then melt.
Noob here 👍 For a bit of off road fun was interested in the Arrma Fireteam 6s but keep hearing about weak plastic Arrma diffs/housings?? Have you developed or know of an upgrade? Sub'd 👍
The stock diff housing are ok, we still use the stock one one lost of our cars, however there are aluminium upgrades from a few places, Vitavon, Hot Racing, Unofficial Basher Queen for example
Thank you so much. This helped me dramatically. I didnt know that those D shaped end pieces didnt get used. I was going nuts😅😅😅. Thanks again good friend
your welcome - glad i could help
I shredded 2 plastic diffcase in the center at notorious V5. Now I install this upgrade. Good video, all the best to you and the rest of your crew👍👋🍺
Yeah the notty will shred the plastic ones when doing wheelies 😂 by far the best upgrade for the center diff and relatively inexpensive as well, glad you like the video and all the best to you 👍👍
I just did that to mine..only ran 5 times...
Ordered this one...
Anyone using these, don't forget to lock tight the screws into the diff case. Awsome vid bro👊 those red diff cases look premo 👌😁
Indeed - metal to metal = lock tight 👍👍 they look good in the center diff as well 👍 gad you liked the vid
Don’t forget to locktite EVERY screw on an RC car.
@@larrytemen4789 No, not true, not plastic to metal or plastic to plastic. Only metal to metal as Loctite will eventually make plastic brittle when exposed to it. No need for plastic for metal because the plastic swells around the screw head when you tighten it down acting like a lock.
Just wanted to send you a HUGE THANK YOU for this informational vid. We run our 6s line on 8s and we were breaking pins on every run. You have made our 6s line GREAT again.LOL. Keep up the good work. Tell your kids we said Hey and keep up the good driving.
Thank you for your very kind words, im very glad the tip was able to help and you can drive your cars on 8s again 👍👍 keep on bashing 👍👍
From a Noblemen to a Gentlemen, i must say my good man, i THOROUGHLY enjoyed that Differential rebuild, Very well then!!!
Thank you very much for your kind words, means a lot when people enjoy what we do and share 👍
@@HardcoreRC Don't mention it, It was an outstanding demonstration, your craftmenship is spot on, indeed!!!
Great video! Clear and concise for a newb like me 👏🏼 Cheers!
Thanks you, glad it was helpful 👍
Good walk through my friend.. I'm sure this will help plenty of people.. 👍
Thanks - its hard to keep these sort of videos down on their length
Great video, learned a ton. Thank you. I'll be doing this upgrade to my Arrma Mojave.
Thanks, glad it was helpful. Really is one of the best and cheapest mod you can do, especially for the center diff
Greatly appreciated mate! Will give it a go when it’s time to rebuild the diff in my Kraton 🤨🇦🇺
Your welcome - always makes me happy when people find the video helpful 👍
Thank you very much for the video. I need to swap center diff on my Typhon 6s V5. And this helps a lot. 🙂👍
Your welcome and im glad it helped
great info bro, I’m going to put the hr diff case on my kraton soon ive got it already but haven’t had much chance to wrench 🔧 . Thanks this video was really helpful 😎👌
Your welcome - glad it was helpful - its is a great and fairly cheap upgrade 👍👍👍
Awesome video. Got my kraton 6s exb this past fall. Only drove it a few times. No issues besides a few broken parts, shock stand off and rear a arm. Fixing all that, going through all the diffs and then putting the aluminum center diff. This is going to be very helpful.
Thank you, glad you liked it and it helped you with your build. You managed to get the EXB before the discontinued it for some strange reason - best car Arrma made
excellent upgrades for the 6s lineup . thx for sharing this knowledge 🤙✊
No problem - its actually a cheapish upgrade as well
Thanks Dave .. I just used this to help setup my ally diff 😎👍
Hehe no problem 👍 one of the cheapest and best upgrades for the Arrma 6s cars
Very nice video mate very helpful will definitely use this information on my car thanks 🏁🇬🇧👍🏻
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching and commenting
Awesome work HardcoreRc💎💯 thanks a bunch 😎💯
Your welcome - hope it was helpful
I use .0894 tig welding tungsten’s for my pins. They are literally indestructible. You could run 50HP through them and they won’t bat an eye. Obviously I cut them down to size.
Thats a great idea, i bet you have never broken one
I know this is an older video, but have been gathering parts for a new Typhon to Senton 6s conversion and am on the fence on getting either these, or more of HR's modular cups. The HR allows the use of the steel plates behind the spider/satellite gears...and I prefer that. But the end-caps aren't as robust as ARRMA's. Decisions. I just don't like the idea of those steel pins (that the spider gears rotate on) torquing against bare aluminum over time. The steel plates protect the inside of the cups. The HR O-Rings are a pain, but I have a method for working with them with success. Plus, many think the O-Rings replace the gasket....they don't. You need to use both gasket and O-Ring.
I wonder how these ARRMA modular cups have faired over time.
Not had any issues with them wearing to be honest, with all the silicon in there they are still like new, i guess the real test would be to be doing lots and lots of long wheelies to really stress out the centre diff.
Plus in real terms these are pretty cheap so if they do wear in a few years its easy to replace
@@HardcoreRC Well, that tells me enough. I changed my mind and will go more of a budget build and keep the stockers front/rear, along with the plastic bulkheads. I've never run the stock stuff, but will definitely get ARRMA's aluminum for the center.
I haven't let any stock stuff have a chance to break. V5 SWB chassis, stock stamped shock towers chopped to fit the Senton's body mounts, un-used Spektrum servo from a V5 Kraton when they first came out etc. Should be interesting. Thanks for the reply. 👊🏻
I do mine the same way except I drill a bleed hole and tap it for an M3 grub screw to remove all the air.
Oh i like that idea 👍👍
Awesome and great info subscribed
Glad it helped - thanks for the sub 👍👍
Great video thanks, my stock pins have very little movement so I guess I’m lucky, still I’ve ordered some 2.25mm drill bits for the future 👍🏻
Your welcome - they are a good back up and cheaper as well, just a bit of dremmel work needed
Thanks for the very good video, Will need t do all of mine,
Your welcome and this is a very good upgrade for the diffs, especially the center diff
Thanks you .you really help me today .
Glad we were of help 👍
Thanks for the video. I just friggin melted my center diff on my Mojave and am looking to upgrade the center diff and may go with this part.
This is all metal - the red and black parts are all metal. Would be a very good upgrade for the Center diff, and it wouldn't melt again
@@HardcoreRC great! thank you! So, I do not need to buy anything extra? I can just use my existing gears, o rings, shims, etc, right? I am pretty positive I know the answer, but would like to hear it from a pro :)
@@LulaPlays lol,, not sure i would call myself a pro, but i have changed a few of these cases over now 👍😂 for the center diff you shouldn't need anything else. If doing the front or rear its worth having the shims on hand just in case you need to remove any play
@@HardcoreRC thank you! Going to my Hobby Store here in a bit to see if they have the case...I also need the Diff cover, as that plastic piece melted as well :)
@@HardcoreRC thank you! just ordered on Ebay...but also ordered some FastEddy Bearings..figure I might as well change them to something a bit better while I have the center diff apart.
When I added the shim into the crown gear bearing drive cup it’s not as smooth and it’s binding up a bit. I saw you had no issues w that last part. Without the extra shim on the outside it’s pretty smooth but when I add it, it’s wanting to bind. Do you have nay input as to why that’s happening thanks.
You dont always have to add shims, they are only used to remove and tightne up if needed as each one cup etc will have slightly different tolerances
Thanks Bud! Great video!
Glad you liked it!
You can also use her tool or alen . Also hardened steel
Indeed you can, although i just find the drill blanks have been best as easy to get and the right size
Great job on this video!
Glad you liked it!
Dope video!
Glad you liked it!
you don't put any diff oil in there?
thanks for the help awesome vid!
Your welcome and glad it was helpful
Hi i bought the metal diff too but my driveshaftholder from plastic main diff dosent fit could you have a idea?
Sorry which bit doesn't fit ? not sure i understand what you mean by plastic main diff
@@HardcoreRC the center diff thats on kraton 6s originaly. Would it be ok if i sent picure on instagram?
@@godzillarex216 you could send a picture here: hardcorerc2005@gmail.com
Cool info I like that diff
Your welcome - glad you liked the diff 👍
Hi Dave. I have one of these diff housings for my tlr build, and it has a little play. I can't shim it where the cups are as they are already perfect. I noticed you added an extra shim either side of your planetary gears, (the little gears), where they sit next to the aluminium housing. They already have one on all four sides and I need another four to tighten everything up. Thanks to Arrma changing their website, I can't find a part number for them. Can you help?
If for the inside of the diffs its these: ARAC9833
and these for behind the bigger internal gears: ARA709057
Thanks Dave. You're a star. Hope all is well. 👍
@HardcoreRC I think it's the ARAC9833. Thanks again buddy 👍
@@TTRC No problem, glad i could help
I put the metal case in my center diff. However mine doesn't have the Arrma logo printed on it. Works and looks great tho.
One of the best and cheapest upgrades you can do 👍
EHi. I am planning to buy either a Krayton V5 BLX or EXB. Which one has better differential of the two ? Thanks
i would recommend you buy the EXB over the V5, it will be way way way cheaper in the long run as has most of the upgrades already, EXB also has stronger diffs
So helpful. Thanks mate :)
Glad it was helpful and your very welcome 👍👍
@@HardcoreRC Watched awhile ago and been meaning to do this upgrade on my centre but was chaning the oil and fixing a rear outdrive and noticed it's bit was broken as well but it was stil turning properly. So decided to do that one and ordered another for the centre.. really wanna cut up some drill pieces as hate that slop and is a good idea, especially with the extra power I just added... Dremel is next thing on my list but couldn't find blanks.. may just have to cut the smooth parts off some actual drill bits :P
@@brei.z Where do you live for the blanks ? but as you said actual drill bits will work, just means you cant use all of it though so blanks can be better
@@brei.z If in the USA you can get the blank from here: www.mcmaster.com/2900A239/ if in the UK i link to where to get the blanks from in the description
@@HardcoreRC I'm In Australia :P But that did help thanks. Just copied that exact Product name into google and got better results than the last time I tried :) .. dam, already ordered a set of normal pins.
Do you know if you can use the aluminum diff case with LSD plates or its only for open diffs ? Thank you!
Only the non EXB/LSD diffs, but i believe Vitavon have some aluminium ones for the EXB/LSD diffs
Great videi bro👑
Kio it up💪
Thanks - just trying to help everyone 👍
Can you do a video on how it sounds with a new center dif? Thanks
Sounds the same as normal diff - the case doesnt make a difference to the sound
The washer/shim you put underneath the sun gear (the one that is larger in diameter compared to stock) is it thicker than the stock one as well? I saw on the package it was 0.20mm. I'm just wondering since I just use the stock one when rebuilding my differentials.
Im not sure to be honest as Arrma dont state the thickness of the stock shim. I just know that these Core RC ones are what a lot of people use
@@HardcoreRC Ah, well I thought I'd ask just in case you had any idea. Thanks for telling me though. I might just order the Core RC ones then.
@@NepDouble07 Sorry, i dont have calipers so cant measure the thickness either, i just know the Core RC shims work 👍
@@HardcoreRC That's all I gotta know, if they work well that's all I need 👍
Will this aluminum case work with the limited slip diffs?
It doesnt work with the limited slip diffs, however Vitavo have one that does work, i show it in this video but with a 44t spur, the stock LSD 50t spur also fits ruclips.net/video/PCqv9Cs_Rr4/видео.html
@@HardcoreRC thanks!
Hi this is good 😊👍 can you tell me do I need to double shim all 4 small side gears I can only hear you mentioning putting 2 shims on only 2 small gears
To be honest each one will be different as they all have their different tolerances, no two case or gears will be identical size wise. Best to just test before filling with oil, i only needed to put a shim behind two of the gears, if i did it behind all 4 it was to tight
@@HardcoreRC Ok thanks I understand what you say 😊,I actually got a shock when I received my new Arrma metal casing I thought they sent me the wrong one as it looks totally different than the stock plastic one then I watched your vid and you explained what parts to remove,thanks again 😊👍
@@paulcooper7162 Your welcome - it is one of the cheapest and best upgrades for the car, especialy for the center diff
@@HardcoreRC Thanks man 😊 yes I agree no choice really,I burnt my center diff out in 30mins from being new ,completely ripped opened the diff casing and melted the bearing mount also so got metal one now and leaked oil from front and rear diffs so seeing your vid I'm doing all diffs with better oil,thanks 😊👍
@@paulcooper7162 Likely due to Arrma not actually putting enough diff oil in out the factory, a common issue with them. Rubbish QC currently.
Would suggest going with either 300,000 CST or 500,000 CST in the centre diff, then 50,000 cst at the front and 30,000 cst at the rear
Great video, thanks for taking the time to post this. Saved me a lot of time. Will the aluminum diff case work with the hot racing aluminum bulk head? My input gear is running on the diff case when tightened down. Any suggestions?
Yes they should fit as all the exteriors are the same size. When you say input gear do you mean the little gear in the diff bulkhead or the bigger gear that's on the diff case (the gear on the right in my thumbnail)?
@@HardcoreRC hello, I am referring to the smaller gear that goes through the bulkhead (10t spiral cut gear part ara310979). When I place the hot racing rear bull head cover onto the hot racing bulkhead, the Arrma aluminum diff seems to fit just fine with no rubbing. Until I screw the rear cover down all the way, then the input gear hits the Arrma aluminum diff cover and it binds.
@@Stonew24 make sure there are no shims behind the bearing in the diff bulkhead and then make sure that both those bearings are fully seated in the bulkhead.
Then when you do the grub screw up make sure the pinion is pulled all the way through and stays tight to the bearing
@@HardcoreRC thank you. Unfortunately it looks like the diff housing is wider than the stick plastic diff cups and when the hot racing bull head is tightened, the diff cup binds with the ring gear. Was hoping this would work but seems to be to snug. I didn’t have any shims to remove and it was still too tight. Thanks for your help though
Does the exb aluminum diff casing work with Typhon 6s diff gears? I thought the exb casing was only for kraton & other exb models
No the EXB ones only work with the EXB spiral gears and internals, You can fit EXB diffs to the Typhon would would also need to change the input gear, the crown gear and the outdrives etc. Easiest way to do it is buy the complete unit from Jennys RC, would also need to do front and rear as they have a different gear ratio to stock typhon
@@HardcoreRC I’m running 8s & just shredded all 3 diffs, Do you think the LSD would get destroyed faster being limited slip & all that torque from 8s, I thought it would so I just bought the stock diffs & rebuilt & shinned them, But my 1650kv motor burned out & started smoking soon as I got the diffs done lol always something 😂
@@timprice8877 What parts of the diffs got shredded ?
When my kraton was stock never had issues installed metal center case and 500k diff fluid and then I snapped a diff pin in front diff and rear diff.. im running 60k front 200k center and 30k rear.. and I tried adding more satellite shims and im getting a clicking noise I feel like im chasing my tail at this point. And I've added those aluminum cases front and rear.. but I didn't double the shims on the drive cup like u did.. any advise would be great..
is it a V4 Kraton ? likely the clicking is coming from the main gear and input gear they are a pain like that, really need to shim the outside bearing so there is no movement. But you could be chasing your tail and might be better to just upgrade to the EXB diff on the rear and the EXB input gear
@@HardcoreRC yes its a V4.. only issues I've had with any of my 6s center diffs is they like to leak.. ive thought about upgrading to exb but alot of people had issues shimming them...and they aren't cheap.. but I've put alot of money into this issue so far.. when my drive pins broke I believe they were both on the ring gear side and I also shattered the star gear and tweaked the output shafts as well... I had to pound em out the ring gears.. ive thought about using the mugan shims instead of the arrma shims on the satellite gears as well...I don't know the part #.. I haven't opened em back up to See what's going on as of yet.. but it seems like the truck has more power then it used to.. when jumping it or holding it up and full trigger it balloons the tires like 8s.. lol.. and it has proline badlands non belted as well.. stock gearing..
@@HardcoreRC I have 2 shims on rear as was stock and front is stock shims.. im prob gonna get all exb diffs when there off back order..
@@RcbasherNcrasher13 Going EXB diffs will be a smart move - will be cheaper and likely easier to get them from a breaker - where are you located ?
@@HardcoreRC lafayette Indiana... u?
For the mojave, can you still put in the limited slip plates in on this aluminium diff case? Excellent video mate!
Thanks. No the LSD plates dont fit in this diff case, Arrma dont make an Ali case for the 29mm size that takes the LSD plates, however you can get a Vitavon one: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284455536009?hash=item423adf0589:g:xhMAAOSwgSBgAaXT
Will this fit Kraton EXB?
This is only for the normal 6s diffs - it would fit in the EXB diff bulkhead as that is same as standard bulhead, but but you would need all the normal 6s gears (pinion, crown, sun and satalite gears) - the diff case doesnt work with the EXB gears
Hi sorry to bother you I'm doing this install now and I'm confused I watched your vid which is very useful as I was doing it wrong lol. I've done everything u have except shimming the gears on the inside of the diff. I was just wondering should u still have play on the drive shafts more from the bottom of casing than the main drive gear end any ideas or new shafts lol thanks much appreciated
Thats ok - yes there is still some play, dont have to shim the inside of the diff, this was the only one i did shim and i have fitted these to most of my cars now. How much play are you talking about ?
@@HardcoreRC thanks for the reply mate.. Well top main gear on top very minimal. I expected abit of play in them to be honest but the bottom maybe 2/3 mm way more than top of diff is that normal lol.. I only swapped to the alloy casing as the standard composite one the bearing gromet had failed and loose so thinking it might have worn the shaft down.. thanks again
@@mattwillis7885 Yes a little bit of play like 2 - 3 mm is normally - you can take a bit of it up with a washer / shim between the bearing and cup on the output - should already be one washer there already.
@@HardcoreRC ok cool yea there is already one shim / washer on the output I did try 2 but wouldn't move so back to just the one. Well I appreciate the help thanks to you it's back in the truck. Will definetly subscribe to your channel you've been great help thanks HardcoreR
@@mattwillis7885 Your welcome - glad i could help 👍👍
looking at these if @arrma wants to come across with some I'll gladly test them
For what they are they are actually quite cheap and a good upgrade
It'd be nice if you linked the gasket, O-rings, and shims lol I know the shims I can search from the part# you held up, but what about the O-rings and gaskets?
I didnt link as you already have the gaskets and o rings, you just take them out your old plastic diff case and use them in the aluminium diff case, O rings and gaskets are the same as stock. It would be nice of you said thank you for taking the time to do the how to video !!!!!!
@@HardcoreRC You're right im sorry haha Thank you! Thing is, im almost 100% sure my center anf rear didnt come with gaskets. Front did. So im wondering if they forgot to put them in there from the factory lol
@@RUZTY1311 Knowing Arrma they could well have forgotten 😂
@@HardcoreRC Hey did you have a gasket on when you put it back together at 13:43?
@@RUZTY1311 I did yes, you can see it sitting the the crown gear. Generally when you take the diffs apart you find the gasket stays in the gear side, i tend to leave it there so as not to damage it trying to get it out
Can this be used for rear/front diff? Want to upgrade my Infraction V2
Yes it can be used in the front and rear diffs of normal 6s cars, cant be used in the EXB though
@@HardcoreRC thanks. I'll upgrade all the diffs very soon 😏
@@HardcoreRC thankyou for this great video my pimp.
Will it work in the v5 notorious?
@@rclife3231 Yes should work fin in the V5 Notty as they are the same as the V4 etc
nice job.
Thanks 👍
Do you have a video of the original 220041 diff installation
Sorry i dont
HardcoreRC I think I did it right LOL
Does the ara220050 work on a arrma senton 6s blx 2018
That's a very good question - looking on Arrma site is doesn't show it as a compatible model: www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA220050 however if you then look at the Arrma Senton 6s parts and click on the diff case for the Senton 6s it appears to be the same as all the other 6s cars and is listed as compatible so therefore should fit: www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310433
Nice video tutorial! How is the metal diff case holding up? I'm thinking about getting one.
Holding up really well, for the price this really is a great upgrade, especially for the center diff
If you don't get these and you bash very hard, there is a bushing pressed into the plastic half of case.. becomes loose and wobbly over time causing even more issues. Ask me how I know😒. -🤣
Advantages of this is what?
It looks good in the center diff 😂😂 in all seriousness though, dissipates heat better, less likely to melt, harder wearing, much better tolerances, easier to access both sides of the diff, to name just a few advantages
@@HardcoreRC cool
Just realized after watching most of this that the thumbnail is wrong lol just a heads up you have a center diff on thumbnail and your building a rear/ front diff
So it is, well spotted, although the process is the same for all diffs, its only the main gear that is a different shape
For all 6S-models? I don't think this works with EXB diffs
It doesn't work for the EXB diffs, but this video was made before the EXB models were released.
@@HardcoreRC Is this the same/similar process with ARA311061 which is for 6S exb models
@@patmarcus172 yes the exact same process but you also need to deal with the LSD plates on the EXB diffs
Can the ara 220050 be used for all 3 diffs?
Yes this can be used in the Front, Center and Rear diffs - i have them in all three on my Kraton V4 (it doesnt fit the EXB LSD diffs though)
OK, thanks for your response
@@sir_puffs_alott_rc Your welcome
What's the Benefits Of A Aluminum Diff Case?
Less likely for any movement under extreme stress, less likely for stones etc to cause damage, when diffs get used a lot (one side spinning more than the other, like pulling wheelies etc) the diff will heat up plastic diff cases then melt.
@HardcoreRC Ooh I See, Thanks.!🤙😊🤙
should have put it together on that side before you put case back on just my opinion
Noob here 👍 For a bit of off road fun was interested in the Arrma Fireteam 6s but keep hearing about weak plastic Arrma diffs/housings?? Have you developed or know of an upgrade?
Sub'd 👍
The stock diff housing are ok, we still use the stock one one lost of our cars, however there are aluminium upgrades from a few places, Vitavon, Hot Racing, Unofficial Basher Queen for example
Thank you sir was doing it wrong for 3 hours 🤣😂
You must have been pulling your hair out, glad i could help 👍👍
Yeah but she is still clicking man do you know what's up? I think it's the case
@@ElliotM8 When is it clicking ? is it clicking before you put it in the car ? was it all ok before you changed to the aluminum case ?
It clicks when I pull the trigger and then it loses drive in the front
@@ElliotM8 Ok which diff is it - front, center or rear ? sounds like it could be one of the main gears that sit outside the diff
sorry spoke to soon sorry.
Hehe thats ok, i always dry run the diffs to make sure all is ok before putting the oil in