Super effective and informative technical video. My English is not perfect but as you take the time to break down the sequences and as you speak calmly with precise words I can easily understand your explanations. thank you, it’s really great. very happy to see a video from an enthusiast who loves his machines and respects the work of the designers by not butchering them in a stupid way. 👏👍
2nd comment. Tbh, silicone is a sub-par lubricant for metal. Especially gears. I'm thinking about using a combination of Lucas synthetic engine oil stabilizer with a synthetic gear oil in the EXB aluminum diff cups using the LSD plates. The silicone O-Rings can chemically handle it. Natural rubber couldn't. Teflon based shock seal grease (aka green slime) would be fine for the O-Rings, and apply some Lucas Red&Tacky in the output tubes where the out-drives rotate with cotton swab. Or just more Teflon grease. As for Ring & pinion/input gears, I have a black, grade 3 open gear grease with moly. If you want more water resistance, I would just go with some blue Dynamite brand lithium based marine grease. It's thicker and more robust than many other calcium thickened marine formulas. Plus, it's compatible with all other lithium grease out there.
I’ve destroyed multiple differentials on my Outcast 6 BLX V3 because of the wrong setup. As a Ukrainian citizen, I need to order all the parts from the States, which makes the price of the wrong setup even bigger. You are the brightest Arrma tips and tricks blogger on RUclips. I tell some things from your video here in Ukraine and people who have done the hobby for many years don't understand me because of not digging into details like you do. Respect!
i loved the way it drove with the lsd plates however i had issue with them all, put spacers in haven't had an issue in over a year, the way it drove with the plates at speed with turns did feel magical at first though i gotta say it was crazy awesome feeling, upvoted!!
I just looked at the new Kraton EXB 2.0 manual and they're now using 80K CST front and rear in their open diffs. That's a huge difference. I'll probably go closer to 20K like you did.
Ok , thanks . I ordered them stiffer springs and 60 wt . You know , something to do at night while watching tv . I thought disassembly looked confusing and difficult at first but after watching vids and learning how they go together it’s getting a lot easier . I’m into home remodeling so I always say that things can come apart easy but getting it back together can be a lot harder . I can see why people go through their whole vehicle when they get it . Changing fluids and adding aftermarket stuff . I think my next upgrade might be the red alum front and rear brace and them aluminum knuckles . I think it’s m3 and m4 shims. There was a bag of 4 shims . I think it’s for the differentials
Great video. Thanks for doing it. I really wish Arrma would release a Typhon 6S EXB (maybe even an XL) or at least offer an appropriately geared ring and pinion so I can run the 29mm EXB diffs in my Typhon. Even if the extra durability and LSD plates aren't needed in my buggy I just don't want to have to keep different parts on hand. I can still accomplish the same final drive ratio with a Vitavon center diff spur but don't really want to.
Nicely explained. I replaced the outdrive pins (P/N 713033) with Mugen Seiki units (MUGH0274) as the Arrma units have a bad rap for being poorly manufactured. Just an FYI for ya :)
Now that you have had time to compare the two thoroughly, would you say the EXB differentials are stronger than the v5 or no? Ive heard the cups break more on the exb diffs due to a little different design where the driveshaft sits. But the cup shafts are a bit longer and the gear teeth are bigger so I'd think that with a redesigned cup it would be stronger than the 31mm diffs (I'm thinking a 29mm vitavon differential would be the beefiest).
There shouldn’t be. If there is, I would first make sure there is no damage taken to the side mounts/towers, if they’re bent, etc. They could be loose so you might re-tighten them to the chassis. if there is still slop, you may find that you didn’t properly push down the cover component all the way down. All of the towers need to pop into place into the cover piece. If you’ve checked both of those things, and it’s still giving signs of slop… Yes, there is no problem with adding the shims in to get rid of that slop. You definitely don’t want it. You would use the same shims that you’d use in the front and rear to clean up that side to side slop.
I think they RCs should be put together with torx head screws to begin with as they have more teeth to grip with and not as prone to stripping. I've had to use torx bits to get stripped screws out by tapping one a tad bigger than the hex into the head and able to them with pressure and a socket set to come out. But it's hard to find all the sizes you need. 🤔
If it's a plastic diff case, I'd put correct size driver into grom, if screw is stuck then super gently tap it a few times and repeat till you can remove screw without to much force. Percussive shock should hopefully loosen it. Don't hit hard enough to really damage anything obviously. 😂
First time watching your channel. I’m confused @7:20 which product is “amazing”. The video shows two but u don’t identify which one is the better product. Can u elaborate?
Sorry, I know it happens quickly my apologies for that. But you’ll notice there’s an arrow pointing to the jar right at 7:20 referencing the liquid in that jar. And then, in that exact moment, I also have an image that pops up in the top right corner, showcasing the thumbnail to another one of my videos. I do believe a link also appears at the top right corner of the screen that is clickable to allow you to jump straight to that video. Which showcases the competition between those two substances, as to which one is better for cleanup processes, while taking apart your differentials. Here is a link to the video ruclips.net/video/K7SV-qaxcB0/видео.htmlsi=6AgGTCYwtORMmyM0
If you don't use the LSD plates, you're missing out. Say....(with a Kraton 6s) if you want the truck to stick to the ground and turn at full throttle without the rear end sliding around (and no wheelies) handling like an advanced All Wheel Drive system - you want the LSD setup. Use ARRMA's modular aluminum diff cups, set the plates for the front diff cup at full LSD effect and put in 500k fluid. Set the center cup at full effect LSD with 80k, and for the rear cup, set the LSD plates to minimum effect and use 80k fluid. Be sure to have the fluid between all the plates and in the holes with no air bubbles, (even behind the sun and satellite/spider gears) as this limited slip system is hydraulic. You wouldn't believe how well it performs. The rear end will not slide out. It will handle like it's on rails. I have this setup and run my K6 on 8s with aluminum bulkheads.
I am curious here as well. did you really do 500k front? and center is 80k? no wonder you dont wheelie... your front tires are ballooning like a mofo with all that power getting bled off on the front.
grease are wonderful stuff. a little is good so a lot must be better lol actually when you cake it like you did for the crown pinion, it leads to unnecessary drag and believe it or not increased in operating temperature and can get real hot leading to grease premature breakdown plus other heat related issues.
Interesting, I’ll have to look into that. Yeah… I did use a bit more than I usually do. Lol… I guess that syringe application was too easy. Thanks for the heads up.
Over time, the grub screw in the differential limited slip gear case does take out the case. I upgraded to Treal Diff gear cases in my Outcast EXB. The quality of the Treal parts is amazing. I still run mine with the full limited slip effect with 100,000 fluid. I even have tried 500,000 with good results. I can't remember what I used for the center and front? My belief after running different weight fluid is you can make it work and the effect is drastic. I do have the shim kit but, it would be interesting to see how you feel it runs with the 20K fluid? I might have to give that a go because the replacement friction surfaces are expensive (especially in Communist Canada).
Arrma EXB Diffs Front/Rear Diff Set GP4 5mm 29mm Open Diff Case 80K | ARRMA (arrma-rc.com) 74.99 Limited Slip Center Diff Set 50T 100k | ARRMA (arrma-rc.com) 74.99 Dont forget about Jennys RC... if they have the goodies in stock. looks like right now if you spent only 30 bucks extra... you can get both the diff and the aluminum case. if you dont allready have them. Arrma KRATON 6s EXB - F/R DIFFERENTIAL (alum case, input gears, bearin - Jennys RC LLC
@@EastTactics thanks for the answer man, the problem is with the diff mesh, I put 2 washers from the factory and today I tried to put another one of 0.2 mm and it's too much that it sounds strange when I turn the diff, the best washer was a 0.1 washer as in the set sold by m2c, but I don't have it :( thanks again
@make4all2000 yeah it’s pretty easy to detect when there’s too tight mesh. You’re right, it feels funny and it makes a weird noise. You did the right thing, or are doing the right thing by adjusting the thickness of the shim back. at the end of the day, the goal is to avoid having too much slop. It said that the perfect mesh of these gears is when there’s about a paper thick space between the two components.
In the past 2 years i’ve slow down big time with the Hobby and there is what seems to be almost infinite upgrades you can do to these Arrma rigs. In 2023 the ultimate Basher seems to be a M2C Kraton!!! My v2 Typhon from 2018 has all hot racing upgrades withEXB shock towers. Does HR still do metal upgrades? And who is picking up the slack from T-Bone racing with bumpers?
Yeah HR racing is still around. Of course they’ve got a lot of aluminum upgrades. Still none of them compare to M2C. Who is still the king of upgrades and has come out with a lot of clutch pieces for a whole lineup of rigs, including Traxxas upgrades. They came close to starting to offer aluminum, bulk heads, but decided to pull the plug on that project, because Arma is now offering them. So with the new Kraton EXB extreme coming out with that feature, that’s pretty cool. But you can still pick up aluminum bulkhead from hot racing, Vitavon, and now Arrma. As far as wing mounts, go, RPMs come out with a new variant that is pretty solid, the new Kraton 2.0 looks like it’s going to have a pretty tank wing mount, although my personal favorite is still the flexibility of the 3-D RC wing mount, but you have to do some clutch upgrades that I point out in a few of my videos to make it tops.
@@EastTactics Nice! I knew HR was still around but was wondering if they still made upgrades for Arrma considering they would lose the majority of their sales to M2C. If I remember correctly M2C may have a slipper clutch upgrade for the 3s line, or maybe that’s HR. I’m guessing within a year or so most of the 3s line will also have the 4s center diff 😊 I have a RPM wing Mount on my 6s Typhon and that goes back 4 years. This hobby is a never ending choice of upgrades and options. As far as diffs? Of course I’ve gone through a bunch of them, but not like a lot of people, and I have done some very hard bashing with big air, but I almost never land on throttle and my brakes are always set between 37.5 and 50%. Vitavon I know NOTHING about so I guess I gotta look into them. Thanks for replying!
By “shows”, do you mean you physically opened it up and found the center without slip plates? What about the front and back? Did the factory accidentally ship yours different from what the manual displays? Or did they actually change What the manual says? Let me know. It’s not uncommon for the factory to make a mistake like that Either way, I wouldn’t fret about it. If you have all three open differentials, that’s personally better in my opinion. I’m not a fan of the slip plates in any of the differentials.
Howdy! very interesting video, but for a Kraton 6s isn't it a bit much earplugs? I know, this depends on each driving style, but it seems a bit much to me...thanks!
Just finding the channel, and this was an awesome break down and explanation of the ARRMA 6s diffs. The only thing I could recommend is that your voice is inconsistent volume wise. I can hear you great at times and then it’s really quiet.
The limited slip plates do act as a component that increases the viscosity of the gears as it reacts to the plates, so yes “with plates” you might consider going a little lower then what you prefer/had if adding them in. Think of the plates as adding the equivalent of 20-30k
Very Nice ET. Yeah I think I'm gonna start using these shimes too. I'm have issues with my exb diffs. But only in the rear front works just fine. Can you actually just leave out one slip plate instead of using all 3 ? So il just use 4 ? To get less slip
No you CANT leave 1 slip plate out (on each side) this would leave a gap in the diff, and screw up the mesh inside, now if you replaced what you take out with an exact thick shim. you would be fine... but why would you want to try leave any slip plates in at all, if your not liking them. The simple solution is to remove all the slip plate on both sides and replace them with the shim kit designed to replace the exact thickness back into the diff.
So what are your Diff Fluid Weights you're running or found is good for certain conditions, for the Front, Rear ,& Center Diff's? Did you set the EXB Diff "LSD" discs in the least aggressive or the most aggressive setting, and how has it felt? Do you like the new added Rear LSD? Also i have a Arrma 1/7 Fireteam and I can't seem to get a straight answer, but do the EXB parts like the front/rear braces, chassis brace from the LWB fit the Fireteam? I'm told by Arrma's website basically, that if it fits the 1/7 Mojave, it will fit the Fireteam, Infraction, etc. Which would be some nice upgrades. Plus im looking to put a pickup truck body on it.. Any ideas on a body that might fit that looks to be of that size, like a modern pickup truck/monster truck RC. I like the Arrma BigRock body but it has some weird clip in style and it actually doesn't work too well I've seen in videos.. Great video, just what i needed for some more motivation lol! Thanks!
I’m not a fan of the limited slip plates, but am a fan of the EXB diffs. So for me I run them without the slip plates and install the shim kit. I run 20k rear, 500 or silicone earplugs center, and 60k front. Regarding your next questions, if you’re looking for EXB parts for your 17 scale fire team, you might be able to pull them from the Newest big rock individual part list I do know that the 1/7 scale fire team is pretty much brothers with the big rock. You might get some information from this video I dropped recently. ruclips.net/video/oi7g79uq2Zs/видео.htmlsi=rt7QXRkGZmgfP-C9
@@EastTacticsim sorry if you mentioned this in the video, is the LSD plates supposed to work similar to thicker fluid? and, its thicker fluid even needed if you keep them in? New to the game here, just ordered a Big Rock 6S and wondering if going thicker on the center diff is a good idea on it, not looking for 24/7 wheelies, but i kind of want to avoid front tires ballooning too much, thanks in advance.
On the new big rock? Does the center even come with slip plates in the center? I forget Either way, the simple answer is yes lol. Plates is similar to just going thicker. About the equivalent of 80cst, if my calculations are correct. To get rid of ballooning in the front people jump to 500k, or silicon earplugs in the front. If you have plates, I would just remove them and put in the shim kit in. I’m not a fan of the plates
@@EastTactics looks like it does, shares the EXB diffs with the Kraton 6S EXB, open FR, LSD in the center, i would've liked it to be closer to an EXB car on more parts..., but it is what it is, no reliable way to get the Kraton for me here (Mexico).
I'm buying a notorious, and I was thinking about putting 20m in the center diff and 60k in the front and 200k in the rear diff. Do have any advice for me??
I’m a little curious where you learned or gathered those recommendations. 20 million in the center? Most people run 500K to 1 million in the center 60 K is fine. for the front, I would probably do 20 K in the rear.
Ive got a talion exb setup for 8s with exb aluminum diff housings/stock gears/m2c pins & diff cups and both a fresh set of lsd plates as well as the shim kit to run without the lsd plates. I mainly just bash it and do grass top speed runs. Would you suggest running the lsd plates and if so in what variance or order wouod be best or shouod i just run it without and use the shim kit instead?
Personally, as things break or if you just get bored and feel like digging into them. I would pull all of the slip plates and just run without them. You can increase the differential fluid by about 30 CST to make up for the difference if you wanna keep the same feel you currently have. I don’t think that they do much for RC. And add a level of complexity that is unnecessary.
Great video! Any reason you went with the new aluminum EXB gear box/bulkhead instead of something like Hot Racing bulkheads? The HR bulkheads are almost half the price with the arrma exb version at $100. Any reason you paid more? I'm thinking of upgrading mine on my exb v1, but still deciding if the arrma version is worth it over the HR version. Thanks
I'm actually running the HR bulkheads. they are just as good. Arrma is only finally catching up to the 3rd party makers. And thier products are rarely better. On my V4 kraton, I have HR bulkheads, and on my EXB im running the Basherqueen bulk heads. But those are no longer avialable. But ya... go with hot racing if your looking to save money. The Arrma ones are just the equevalent.
It’s very odd, I looked up the part number on Amazon. And it’s showing what looks to be the shape of the EXB differential cup. So my first thought is yes, it looks like if you’re looking to put the new EXB differential gears inside of that, you should be good But then I look at number two and three image of the Amazon advertisement, and it showing spider gears and shims reminiscent of the V4 variant. Which is wrong. So… I’m not sure which image to trust If the shape of the cut out for the red portion is as described in image one, then yes you should be good. You should be able to put the EXB differential gears inside of that cup. However, if what ends up arriving is more remnant of the V4, and not as displayed in image one. Then you’re gonna be looking at a return. It’s annoying that the description of this product doesn’t strictly say that it’s for the EXB version. I instead would actually recommend buying this one instead. Because it’s actually got the EXb logo on it and people in the comment section clearly show it outfitted with EXb gears. amzn.to/4cPKAbs
I've got a v3 6s I've had for a few years. I'm want to get back into the hobby again. Keep up the kraton videos especially ones with parts that fit the V3 6s 🙏😂
Hi mate. Are you sure you can run exb with old style diffs? I was thinking about it when first exb came out. And I believe someone mentioned they do have different ratios and can't be used together. Something like one spin on front with old diffs will equal to 1.2 wheel rotation on exb diff. I'm making those numbers up. Whats what I got from it years ago?
From what I researched, this is what I found. a slight difference in pitch is unlikely to have a noticeable impact on performance or longevity. Here's why: Manufacturing tolerances: Gears are manufactured with slight tolerances in their dimensions. This means that even gears with the same nominal pitch may have slightly different actual pitches. Mesh engagement: Gears are designed to mesh together with a certain degree of overlap. This overlap allows for some variation in pitch without causing binding or wear. Material properties: The materials used in gears are flexible to a certain extent. This allows the gears to conform to each other slightly, even if they have slightly different pitches. Therefore, a slight difference in gear pitch between the EXB differential and the other differentials in your Kraton is unlikely to cause any problems. You can safely run this setup without any concerns about performance or longevity. That said, I still reached out to Arrma and ask them questions as well. I am awaiting a response. I’m OK with being the guinea pig and will report if there are any issues, or there are any noticeable performance downsides. Thanks for asking
OK… I just got the official reply from Arrma. Pasting below: Hi there, Thanks for reaching out, yeah that should work just fine. Best Regards, Teddy F. Arrma RC
Ive rebuilt my Talion's EXB rear diff 3 times now because it randomly started locking, there is no clicking or stripping sounds and no broken teeth or foreign objects inside the diff, each time after the rebuild its fine for 1 or 2 runs until it locks again, using 10k oil and only running it on 4s, i have some normal shims coming to replace the lsd shims because i have no idea what else it could be
Locking up three times? After taking it apart, you couldn’t determine where it’s locking exactly? Once removed are you grabbing both sides of the differential with your hands trying to twist it and finding its locked? Confirming it’s definitely internal? I think what you’re doing is a good idea, getting rid of those slip plates. Let me know if it remedies the situation.
@@EastTactics yeah 3 times as in it locked and i cant even turn the wheels in opposite directions let alone turning it with my hands once the diff is out and even then i cant tell where its locking but as soon as i open the diff it turns over fine, then i clean it all out, put new oil in it and it fills totally fine for a about 2 runs
@@harlyquin Yeah, that’s strange, perhaps a defective internal gear? Sun gear? It might be a defective cup? Perhaps after you put in the 3 screws there’s a bulge somewhere? Removing the three screws eliminates said bulge perhaps?? I don’t know.
Why not just buy an exb from thw start? I am about to take possession of one but i feel like alot of your videos are for the non exb and thats why its not as durable.
The stock V4 is definitely not as durable as the stock EXB. Especially the V2 Extreme EXB. The stock V4 definitely requires much more TLC to get to tank. Simply put one of the minor downsides of the EXB is that the same products that you would tank out the V4 with our pre-upgraded from Arrma. Those parts are not quite as good as the third-party variants from M2C. Getting an EXB first is definitely not the wrong way to go, if you’ve come into one that’s awesome. Simply upgrade things as they break, or things as you desire. And eventually, you will get the ultimate machine! I got my V4 years and years ago when that was all that was available., Naturally, I’m biased to it. So when the EXB came out. I looked at mine and considered mine still better. Because all the parts raved in the EXB had been upgraded in mine. But upgraded by the master Work Smith of M2C. Does that all make sense? So at the time I did a comparison to see (again at the time) which would be smarter to buy the base V4 and upgrade it with master work parts, or nab the lower version EXB and see, which made more sense to convert upward.
In reference to the slip plates, one side, being full slip, and the other side being limited slip. From what I understand, the slip plates impact the side that they are on. As each side of the differential governs the speed at which that side tire rotates, or doesn’t rotate. So by having one side different than the other, it doesn’t average out the differential As a whole, but impacts each side, respectively. With that said, I don’t know why you would want your left side different than your right side, at least for bashing. Maybe if your circuit racing and you’re always turning left going around a circular track but anyway the impact is pretty minimal irregardless. But I do think it was a factory Mishap to have sides different.
@@EastTactics you think you’re right, you do you. Try it out and you’ll see if you’re right, the car will turn more easily one way than the other at higher vehicle speeds.
Super effective and informative technical video. My English is not perfect but as you take the time to break down the sequences and as you speak calmly with precise words I can easily understand your explanations. thank you, it’s really great. very happy to see a video from an enthusiast who loves his machines and respects the work of the designers by not butchering them in a stupid way. 👏👍
Thanks! 🤜🤛
I appreciate your comment
Glad it was helpfull
2nd comment. Tbh, silicone is a sub-par lubricant for metal. Especially gears. I'm thinking about using a combination of Lucas synthetic engine oil stabilizer with a synthetic gear oil in the EXB aluminum diff cups using the LSD plates. The silicone O-Rings can chemically handle it. Natural rubber couldn't. Teflon based shock seal grease (aka green slime) would be fine for the O-Rings, and apply some Lucas Red&Tacky in the output tubes where the out-drives rotate with cotton swab. Or just more Teflon grease. As for Ring & pinion/input gears, I have a black, grade 3 open gear grease with moly. If you want more water resistance, I would just go with some blue Dynamite brand lithium based marine grease. It's thicker and more robust than many other calcium thickened marine formulas. Plus, it's compatible with all other lithium grease out there.
I’ve destroyed multiple differentials on my Outcast 6 BLX V3 because of the wrong setup. As a Ukrainian citizen, I need to order all the parts from the States, which makes the price of the wrong setup even bigger.
You are the brightest Arrma tips and tricks blogger on RUclips. I tell some things from your video here in Ukraine and people who have done the hobby for many years don't understand me because of not digging into details like you do. Respect!
Right on bro . 🙏 and stay safe over there .
Great info on the exb diffs looking forward to the jump challenges in the future I will have to participate this time around
Nice!!! Looking fwd to seeing you
TREAL makes a beautiful bulkhead /diff housing. I run one it was around $50 Amazon. Comes with every piece except diff.
Sweet... good to know about
Their bulkheads do look nice but I must pipe in their aluminum differential housings are garbage.
Awesome video, thanks so much for sharing all this knowledge with the community!
Absolutely amazing video. I've learned so much. Thank you sir.
Thanks
Nice video brother!… can’t wait for the next jump challenges!🤜🤛
i loved the way it drove with the lsd plates however i had issue with them all, put spacers in haven't had an issue in over a year, the way it drove with the plates at speed with turns did feel magical at first though i gotta say it was crazy awesome feeling, upvoted!!
Interesting… Thanks for watching brother
I just looked at the new Kraton EXB 2.0 manual and they're now using 80K CST front and rear in their open diffs. That's a huge difference. I'll probably go closer to 20K like you did.
Great video. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the spider gears out of my exb differential
This was a Great video break down on everything EXB differentials. Thanks man, great job!!!!
Thanks!
I normally leave the pin set screw out until top is on. I have a tendency of over filling. But my way I know it's full. Ya know
Thanks for making this vid . Well done for someone like myself with limited knowledge to understand and become proficient in repairing or upgrading .
Glad it was helpful!
Yes! The Kraton 6s is a beast.
Check out my latest vid for info on challenges I host each year. Win prizes
Ok , thanks . I ordered them stiffer springs and 60 wt . You know , something to do at night while watching tv . I thought disassembly looked confusing and difficult at first but after watching vids and learning how they go together it’s getting a lot easier . I’m into home remodeling so I always say that things can come apart easy but getting it back together can be a lot harder . I can see why people go through their whole vehicle when they get it . Changing fluids and adding aftermarket stuff . I think my next upgrade might be the red alum front and rear brace and them aluminum knuckles . I think it’s m3 and m4 shims. There was a bag of 4 shims . I think it’s for the differentials
Great video. Thanks for doing it. I really wish Arrma would release a Typhon 6S EXB (maybe even an XL) or at least offer an appropriately geared ring and pinion so I can run the 29mm EXB diffs in my Typhon. Even if the extra durability and LSD plates aren't needed in my buggy I just don't want to have to keep different parts on hand. I can still accomplish the same final drive ratio with a Vitavon center diff spur but don't really want to.
Thanks for the look bro 👊😎
Recently got the Kraton 6s BLX v5 and it’s huge , lol . I ll have to get used to it .
Thats how I felt when I got my v5. What kind of rig were did u have before the Kraton?
Nicely explained. I replaced the outdrive pins (P/N 713033) with Mugen Seiki units (MUGH0274) as the Arrma units have a bad rap for being poorly manufactured. Just an FYI for ya :)
Great videos 😊 really well filmed and not rushed, very helpful 👍Cheers
Glad it was helpful!
I use marine outboard lower unit gear oil, so far working great.
Now that you have had time to compare the two thoroughly, would you say the EXB differentials are stronger than the v5 or no? Ive heard the cups break more on the exb diffs due to a little different design where the driveshaft sits. But the cup shafts are a bit longer and the gear teeth are bigger so I'd think that with a redesigned cup it would be stronger than the 31mm diffs (I'm thinking a 29mm vitavon differential would be the beefiest).
Should there be any side to side play in center diff? Do u shim that one as well?
There shouldn’t be. If there is, I would first make sure there is no damage taken to the side mounts/towers, if they’re bent, etc. They could be loose so you might re-tighten them to the chassis. if there is still slop, you may find that you didn’t properly push down the cover component all the way down. All of the towers need to pop into place into the cover piece.
If you’ve checked both of those things, and it’s still giving signs of slop… Yes, there is no problem with adding the shims in to get rid of that slop. You definitely don’t want it.
You would use the same shims that you’d use in the front and rear to clean up that side to side slop.
@@EastTactics thank you. Helped me out a lot.
I think they RCs should be put together with torx head screws to begin with as they have more teeth to grip with and not as prone to stripping. I've had to use torx bits to get stripped screws out by tapping one a tad bigger than the hex into the head and able to them with pressure and a socket set to come out. But it's hard to find all the sizes you need. 🤔
If it's a plastic diff case, I'd put correct size driver into grom, if screw is stuck then super gently tap it a few times and repeat till you can remove screw without to much force. Percussive shock should hopefully loosen it. Don't hit hard enough to really damage anything obviously. 😂
First time watching your channel.
I’m confused @7:20 which product is “amazing”. The video shows two but u don’t identify which one is the better product. Can u elaborate?
Sorry, I know it happens quickly my apologies for that.
But you’ll notice there’s an arrow pointing to the jar right at 7:20 referencing the liquid in that jar. And then, in that exact moment, I also have an image that pops up in the top right corner, showcasing the thumbnail to another one of my videos.
I do believe a link also appears at the top right corner of the screen that is clickable to allow you to jump straight to that video. Which showcases the competition between those two substances, as to which one is better for cleanup processes, while taking apart your differentials.
Here is a link to the video
ruclips.net/video/K7SV-qaxcB0/видео.htmlsi=6AgGTCYwtORMmyM0
If you don't use the LSD plates, you're missing out. Say....(with a Kraton 6s) if you want the truck to stick to the ground and turn at full throttle without the rear end sliding around (and no wheelies) handling like an advanced All Wheel Drive system - you want the LSD setup. Use ARRMA's modular aluminum diff cups, set the plates for the front diff cup at full LSD effect and put in 500k fluid. Set the center cup at full effect LSD with 80k, and for the rear cup, set the LSD plates to minimum effect and use 80k fluid. Be sure to have the fluid between all the plates and in the holes with no air bubbles, (even behind the sun and satellite/spider gears) as this limited slip system is hydraulic.
You wouldn't believe how well it performs. The rear end will not slide out. It will handle like it's on rails. I have this setup and run my K6 on 8s with aluminum bulkheads.
Did u mean 500k center diff an 80k f&b ?? Or did you really put 500k front an 80k center a back ???
I am curious here as well. did you really do 500k front? and center is 80k? no wonder you dont wheelie... your front tires are ballooning like a mofo with all that power getting bled off on the front.
@@mikellewis2346 right? would that even work?
grease are wonderful stuff. a little is good so a lot must be better lol actually when you cake it like you did for the crown pinion, it leads to unnecessary drag and believe it or not increased in operating temperature and can get real hot leading to grease premature breakdown plus other heat related issues.
Interesting, I’ll have to look into that. Yeah… I did use a bit more than I usually do. Lol… I guess that syringe application was too easy. Thanks for the heads up.
Over time, the grub screw in the differential limited slip gear case does take out the case. I upgraded to Treal Diff gear cases in my Outcast EXB. The quality of the Treal parts is amazing. I still run mine with the full limited slip effect with 100,000 fluid. I even have tried 500,000 with good results. I can't remember what I used for the center and front? My belief after running different weight fluid is you can make it work and the effect is drastic. I do have the shim kit but, it would be interesting to see how you feel it runs with the 20K fluid? I might have to give that a go because the replacement friction surfaces are expensive (especially in Communist Canada).
did you imply that your rear diff fluid is at 100k and tried 500k in back? thats wild. Open diffs I am running 25k rear and 50k front 500k center
@@Andrew-FKF yep
Great video 👍
Thanks Nate!!
The content is very good though and informative
What’s the part number for these exb diffs?
Arrma EXB Diffs
Front/Rear Diff Set GP4 5mm 29mm Open Diff Case 80K | ARRMA (arrma-rc.com) 74.99
Limited Slip Center Diff Set 50T 100k | ARRMA (arrma-rc.com) 74.99
Dont forget about Jennys RC... if they have the goodies in stock.
looks like right now if you spent only 30 bucks extra... you can get both the diff and the aluminum case. if you dont allready have them.
Arrma KRATON 6s EXB - F/R DIFFERENTIAL (alum case, input gears, bearin - Jennys RC LLC
Excellent content
30:01 if I have a little play in that imput gear is a problem? she have a sim from the factory…car is big rock 6s thanks
It can help to put one in. Especially if you’re finding that you are stripping that gear here and there.
@@EastTactics thanks for the answer man, the problem is with the diff mesh, I put 2 washers from the factory and today I tried to put another one of 0.2 mm and it's too much that it sounds strange when I turn the diff, the best washer was a 0.1 washer as in the set sold by m2c, but I don't have it :( thanks again
@make4all2000 yeah it’s pretty easy to detect when there’s too tight mesh. You’re right, it feels funny and it makes a weird noise. You did the right thing, or are doing the right thing by adjusting the thickness of the shim back. at the end of the day, the goal is to avoid having too much slop. It said that the perfect mesh of these gears is when there’s about a paper thick space between the two components.
@@EastTactics Thanks you 🙏🏻
Great video, bro!
In the past 2 years i’ve slow down big time with the Hobby and there is what seems to be almost infinite upgrades you can do to these Arrma rigs. In 2023 the ultimate Basher seems to be a M2C Kraton!!! My v2 Typhon from 2018 has all hot racing upgrades withEXB shock towers. Does HR still do metal upgrades? And who is picking up the slack from T-Bone racing with bumpers?
Yeah HR racing is still around. Of course they’ve got a lot of aluminum upgrades. Still none of them compare to M2C. Who is still the king of upgrades and has come out with a lot of clutch pieces for a whole lineup of rigs, including Traxxas upgrades. They came close to starting to offer aluminum, bulk heads, but decided to pull the plug on that project, because Arma is now offering them. So with the new Kraton EXB extreme coming out with that feature, that’s pretty cool. But you can still pick up aluminum bulkhead from hot racing, Vitavon, and now Arrma.
As far as wing mounts, go, RPMs come out with a new variant that is pretty solid, the new Kraton 2.0 looks like it’s going to have a pretty tank wing mount, although my personal favorite is still the flexibility of the 3-D RC wing mount, but you have to do some clutch upgrades that I point out in a few of my videos to make it tops.
@@EastTactics Nice! I knew HR was still around but was wondering if they still made upgrades for Arrma considering they would lose the majority of their sales to M2C. If I remember correctly M2C may have a slipper clutch upgrade for the 3s line, or maybe that’s HR. I’m guessing within a year or so most of the 3s line will also have the 4s center diff 😊 I have a RPM wing Mount on my 6s Typhon and that goes back 4 years. This hobby is a never ending choice of upgrades and options. As far as diffs? Of course I’ve gone through a bunch of them, but not like a lot of people, and I have done some very hard bashing with big air, but I almost never land on throttle and my brakes are always set between 37.5 and 50%. Vitavon I know NOTHING about so I guess I gotta look into them. Thanks for replying!
Just ordered a BigRock 6s and it shows an open diff ARA311118 for the center
By “shows”, do you mean you physically opened it up and found the center without slip plates? What about the front and back? Did the factory accidentally ship yours different from what the manual displays? Or did they actually change What the manual says? Let me know.
It’s not uncommon for the factory to make a mistake like that
Either way, I wouldn’t fret about it. If you have all three open differentials, that’s personally better in my opinion. I’m not a fan of the slip plates in any of the differentials.
Great info but why is this video only in 360p?
Probably because it’s recently uploaded, and it’s taking time for RUclips to shifted over to 4K. Give it a few hours and I’m sure it will be in 4K.
Thanks!
Happy to help
Howdy! very interesting video, but for a Kraton 6s isn't it a bit much earplugs? I know, this depends on each driving style, but it seems a bit much to me...thanks!
It’s a bit extreme, but it works, and definitely provides off the line punch and cuts massively down on ballooning.
Just finding the channel, and this was an awesome break down and explanation of the ARRMA 6s diffs.
The only thing I could recommend is that your voice is inconsistent volume wise. I can hear you great at times and then it’s really quiet.
Thanks for the sub! And the heads up regarding my voice. I’ve been meaning to invest in a professional mic at some point. 🍻
Newbie here … regarding limited slip diffs do you use a lighter oil vs a non limited slip diff?
The limited slip plates do act as a component that increases the viscosity of the gears as it reacts to the plates, so yes “with plates” you might consider going a little lower then what you prefer/had if adding them in.
Think of the plates as adding the equivalent of 20-30k
Hey what size shim do i use on the output shaft.. i have the ones on the diff side but i could use the smaller output shaft ones
Very Nice ET. Yeah I think I'm gonna start using these shimes too. I'm have issues with my exb diffs. But only in the rear front works just fine. Can you actually just leave out one slip plate instead of using all 3 ? So il just use 4 ? To get less slip
No you CANT leave 1 slip plate out (on each side) this would leave a gap in the diff, and screw up the mesh inside, now if you replaced what you take out with an exact thick shim. you would be fine... but why would you want to try leave any slip plates in at all, if your not liking them. The simple solution is to remove all the slip plate on both sides and replace them with the shim kit designed to replace the exact thickness back into the diff.
@@EastTactics awesome ET. Thanks. Please send me over that shims kit part number when u have time. Can I buy that on your amzon store ?
@EastTactics so removing on lsd plate on each side ok. Leave the circle one in correct? That's the one that actually spins
@@paulrakis
Arrma 6s Diff shim Kit
amzn.to/3ywNB0i
@@paulrakis
Sorry... re read my above message, I should have put the word CANT... instead of can. (I edited it)
So what are your Diff Fluid Weights you're running or found is good for certain conditions, for the Front, Rear ,& Center Diff's? Did you set the EXB Diff "LSD" discs in the least aggressive or the most aggressive setting, and how has it felt? Do you like the new added Rear LSD?
Also i have a Arrma 1/7 Fireteam and I can't seem to get a straight answer, but do the EXB parts like the front/rear braces, chassis brace from the LWB fit the Fireteam? I'm told by Arrma's website basically, that if it fits the 1/7 Mojave, it will fit the Fireteam, Infraction, etc. Which would be some nice upgrades. Plus im looking to put a pickup truck body on it.. Any ideas on a body that might fit that looks to be of that size, like a modern pickup truck/monster truck RC.
I like the Arrma BigRock body but it has some weird clip in style and it actually doesn't work too well I've seen in videos.. Great video, just what i needed for some more motivation lol! Thanks!
I’m not a fan of the limited slip plates, but am a fan of the EXB diffs. So for me I run them without the slip plates and install the shim kit.
I run 20k rear, 500 or silicone earplugs center, and 60k front.
Regarding your next questions, if you’re looking for EXB parts for your 17 scale fire team, you might be able to pull them from the Newest big rock individual part list I do know that the 1/7 scale fire team is pretty much brothers with the big rock. You might get some information from this video I dropped recently.
ruclips.net/video/oi7g79uq2Zs/видео.htmlsi=rt7QXRkGZmgfP-C9
@@EastTacticsim sorry if you mentioned this in the video, is the LSD plates supposed to work similar to thicker fluid? and, its thicker fluid even needed if you keep them in? New to the game here, just ordered a Big Rock 6S and wondering if going thicker on the center diff is a good idea on it, not looking for 24/7 wheelies, but i kind of want to avoid front tires ballooning too much, thanks in advance.
On the new big rock? Does the center even come with slip plates in the center? I forget
Either way, the simple answer is yes lol. Plates is similar to just going thicker. About the equivalent of 80cst, if my calculations are correct.
To get rid of ballooning in the front people jump to 500k, or silicon earplugs in the front.
If you have plates, I would just remove them and put in the shim kit in. I’m not a fan of the plates
@@EastTactics looks like it does, shares the EXB diffs with the Kraton 6S EXB, open FR, LSD in the center, i would've liked it to be closer to an EXB car on more parts..., but it is what it is, no reliable way to get the Kraton for me here (Mexico).
I'm buying a notorious, and I was thinking about putting 20m in the center diff and 60k in the front and 200k in the rear diff. Do have any advice for me??
I’m a little curious where you learned or gathered those recommendations.
20 million in the center? Most people run 500K to 1 million in the center
60 K is fine. for the front, I would probably do 20 K in the rear.
Ive got a talion exb setup for 8s with exb aluminum diff housings/stock gears/m2c pins & diff cups and both a fresh set of lsd plates as well as the shim kit to run without the lsd plates. I mainly just bash it and do grass top speed runs. Would you suggest running the lsd plates and if so in what variance or order wouod be best or shouod i just run it without and use the shim kit instead?
Personally, as things break or if you just get bored and feel like digging into them. I would pull all of the slip plates and just run without them. You can increase the differential fluid by about 30 CST to make up for the difference if you wanna keep the same feel you currently have.
I don’t think that they do much for RC. And add a level of complexity that is unnecessary.
@EastTactics thanks for the response. Definitely gonna go with the open setup and thicker fluids.
Great video! Any reason you went with the new aluminum EXB gear box/bulkhead instead of something like Hot Racing bulkheads? The HR bulkheads are almost half the price with the arrma exb version at $100. Any reason you paid more? I'm thinking of upgrading mine on my exb v1, but still deciding if the arrma version is worth it over the HR version. Thanks
I'm actually running the HR bulkheads. they are just as good. Arrma is only finally catching up to the 3rd party makers. And thier products are rarely better. On my V4 kraton, I have HR bulkheads, and on my EXB im running the Basherqueen bulk heads. But those are no longer avialable.
But ya... go with hot racing if your looking to save money. The Arrma ones are just the equevalent.
@@EastTacticsthanks!
Will these gears fit into a ARRMA Metal Diff Case, ARA220050?
It’s very odd, I looked up the part number on Amazon. And it’s showing what looks to be the shape of the EXB differential cup.
So my first thought is yes, it looks like if you’re looking to put the new EXB differential gears inside of that, you should be good
But then I look at number two and three image of the Amazon advertisement, and it showing spider gears and shims reminiscent of the V4 variant. Which is wrong.
So… I’m not sure which image to trust
If the shape of the cut out for the red portion is as described in image one, then yes you should be good. You should be able to put the EXB differential gears inside of that cup. However, if what ends up arriving is more remnant of the V4, and not as displayed in image one. Then you’re gonna be looking at a return.
It’s annoying that the description of this product doesn’t strictly say that it’s for the EXB version.
I instead would actually recommend buying this one instead. Because it’s actually got the EXb logo on it and people in the comment section clearly show it outfitted with EXb gears.
amzn.to/4cPKAbs
Merci ! thanks for this perfect video.
Appreciate ya…thx brother
The LSD have a smooth side and a non smooth finish. The smooth finish always towards the gears
As I state, right
Will this work on a Limitless ?????
Yes it shares the same diffs. You’ll want to research what is the recommended fluids to put in your setup
I've got a v3 6s I've had for a few years. I'm want to get back into the hobby again. Keep up the kraton videos especially ones with parts that fit the V3 6s 🙏😂
greta tutorial Randy
Randy whats the part number for the shimes thanks . I don't see it
Arrma 6s Diff shim Kit
amzn.to/3ywNB0i
Hi mate. Are you sure you can run exb with old style diffs? I was thinking about it when first exb came out. And I believe someone mentioned they do have different ratios and can't be used together. Something like one spin on front with old diffs will equal to 1.2 wheel rotation on exb diff. I'm making those numbers up. Whats what I got from it years ago?
From what I researched, this is what I found.
a slight difference in pitch is unlikely to have a noticeable impact on performance or longevity.
Here's why:
Manufacturing tolerances:
Gears are manufactured with slight tolerances in their dimensions. This means that even gears with the same nominal pitch may have slightly different actual pitches.
Mesh engagement:
Gears are designed to mesh together with a certain degree of overlap. This overlap allows for some variation in pitch without causing binding or wear.
Material properties:
The materials used in gears are flexible to a certain extent. This allows the gears to conform to each other slightly, even if they have slightly different pitches.
Therefore, a slight difference in gear pitch between the EXB differential and the other differentials in your Kraton is unlikely to cause any problems. You can safely run this setup without any concerns about performance or longevity.
That said, I still reached out to Arrma and ask them questions as well. I am awaiting a response. I’m OK with being the guinea pig and will report if there are any issues, or there are any noticeable performance downsides.
Thanks for asking
OK… I just got the official reply from Arrma.
Pasting below:
Hi there,
Thanks for reaching out, yeah that should work just fine.
Best Regards,
Teddy F.
Arrma RC
@@EastTactics awesome mate. I thought it's more connected to spur gear size then the pitch.
Ive rebuilt my Talion's EXB rear diff 3 times now because it randomly started locking, there is no clicking or stripping sounds and no broken teeth or foreign objects inside the diff, each time after the rebuild its fine for 1 or 2 runs until it locks again, using 10k oil and only running it on 4s, i have some normal shims coming to replace the lsd shims because i have no idea what else it could be
Locking up three times? After taking it apart, you couldn’t determine where it’s locking exactly? Once removed are you grabbing both sides of the differential with your hands trying to twist it and finding its locked? Confirming it’s definitely internal?
I think what you’re doing is a good idea, getting rid of those slip plates. Let me know if it remedies the situation.
@@EastTactics yeah 3 times as in it locked and i cant even turn the wheels in opposite directions let alone turning it with my hands once the diff is out and even then i cant tell where its locking but as soon as i open the diff it turns over fine, then i clean it all out, put new oil in it and it fills totally fine for a about 2 runs
@@harlyquin
Yeah, that’s strange, perhaps a defective internal gear? Sun gear? It might be a defective cup? Perhaps after you put in the 3 screws there’s a bulge somewhere? Removing the three screws eliminates said bulge perhaps?? I don’t know.
@@EastTactics ill try the normal shims and if that dosent work its new diff time lol
@@EastTactics just letting you know, ive put normal shims in the diff and ran a few packs through it with no locking up problem, fixed
What’s the part number for those rear rpm arms
Rear
amzn.to/3HP2ahh
Front
amzn.to/3OuHSxi
Thanks buddy! Your the man
good shit cuz
🍻🍻🍻
Why not just buy an exb from thw start? I am about to take possession of one but i feel like alot of your videos are for the non exb and thats why its not as durable.
The stock V4 is definitely not as durable as the stock EXB. Especially the V2 Extreme EXB.
The stock V4 definitely requires much more TLC to get to tank.
Simply put one of the minor downsides of the EXB is that the same products that you would tank out the V4 with our pre-upgraded from Arrma. Those parts are not quite as good as the third-party variants from M2C.
Getting an EXB first is definitely not the wrong way to go, if you’ve come into one that’s awesome. Simply upgrade things as they break, or things as you desire. And eventually, you will get the ultimate machine!
I got my V4 years and years ago when that was all that was available., Naturally, I’m biased to it. So when the EXB came out. I looked at mine and considered mine still better. Because all the parts raved in the EXB had been upgraded in mine. But upgraded by the master Work Smith of M2C.
Does that all make sense?
So at the time I did a comparison to see (again at the time) which would be smarter to buy the base V4 and upgrade it with master work parts, or nab the lower version EXB and see, which made more sense to convert upward.
🎉👍
Fait au moin deux ans que mais sa en pratique ta raidu acheter un exb vla deux ans !!!
Courage ! Un jour tu l'auras, c'est sûr. Je te souhaite plein de bonnes choses dans ta quête d'un Kraton
The one tool i cant do without in my rc hobby is some ball end drivers
9:10 they don’t need to match. It will create a step between maximin and minimum effect if mismatched.
In reference to the slip plates, one side, being full slip, and the other side being limited slip. From what I understand, the slip plates impact the side that they are on. As each side of the differential governs the speed at which that side tire rotates, or doesn’t rotate.
So by having one side different than the other, it doesn’t average out the differential As a whole, but impacts each side, respectively.
With that said, I don’t know why you would want your left side different than your right side, at least for bashing. Maybe if your circuit racing and you’re always turning left going around a circular track but anyway the impact is pretty minimal irregardless. But I do think it was a factory Mishap to have sides different.
@@EastTactics you think you’re right, you do you. Try it out and you’ll see if you’re right, the car will turn more easily one way than the other at higher vehicle speeds.
3 holes are better than 2
Regarding?
Camera OD
Everything is out of focus.
Might be your internet connection or RUclips not buffering right. Are other vids out of focus?
If not. Sorry for my oversite
@EastTactics No, you're put of focus on the closeups. The background is focused just fine.
Can i chang out my differentials in my V5 to EXB ?
Yes, you just need to make sure you change out the spiral input gear if you convert the front or the rear.
Great video Randy👊🏻💪🏻😎
Thanks 👍