I just gotta say dude... you make some of the most comprehensive videos with Arrma tips, tricks and mods than anyone out there. Everything stock can be made better and you share your out of the box knowledge with great detail. I am that RC guy localy that everyone comes to for help so I believe you and I think alike. So even though I watch most of the other popular content creators, I really pay attention to your vids. I have a couple Arrma's in my collection and I make sure I watch for your notifications letting me know every time you release a new vid. If only we could meet and share knowledge. Keep up the good work. Thank you for what you do. Mad props brother!
@@EastTacticsyou wouldn’t happen to be buying some tires for a rig yesterday. I was conversing with someone that sounds like you. Didn’t ask if he had his own channel but if it’s you. I was in hobby shop with my new outcast 8s exb that wouldn’t bind out of box. Now’s it’s not turning enough smh. Maybe it’s not you but if it is or not. Congratulations on your channel
You sir are a legend 🤛 all that changing/testing then changing again/testing is sooo time consuming . You deserve a BIG thank you 🙏 keep up the good work 👍👌👍
Wow, I am so glad I subbed a while back to your channel. I own 3 Arrma Granites, and I boughtan HSP brand rc to try out. It had a nightmare servo saver like your... I was trying everything to make it work better, I learned alot from HSP: a) avoid any RC that uses steel 'dogbone shafts' [they constantly bend or break... b) never deal with an rc with that type of servo saver! The Granite has the round plastic spring loaded servo saver, and after 3 years (V1) it has never been a problem, one of the few parts that has been excellent. The stock servo went dead in the first month. I installed all Annimos 35kg stainless steel gear servos and never a problem ever again. Great vid and info as always. p.s. The HSP found a place in our local dumpster, got tired of buying replacement 'dogbones and axles that snapped off at the threads... r.i.p. HSP :+{ ALSO I changed over all my screws to stainless steel 'Socket cap head' screws (Boltdepot dot com) They use 2.5mm hex driver and never strip like the stock 'button head's.
Hi East I have a notorious v5 which has the spektrum smart esc.the esc has switchable bec 6v/7.4v. I put it on 7.4v and I'm running power hd 25kg servo which also runs on 7.4v.just put 3 snap rings on the servo saver and the difference is night and day. I now have great steering. Man you are the best. Thank you for this😁😁😁
Subbed a month ago and came across these videos literally a day or 2 after getting my Kraton V5. As everyone else has mentioned, the steering in grass was terrible. Per your videos, I added 3 snap rings, and the same power hobby servo. Put in hot racing mount and servo arm along with the ball bearings instead of the bushings. The shims for the servo mount idea was great too. It is a night and day difference in driving it now. Thanks for all the efforts in the videos. Keep em coming!
I went for the $75 off sale and my V5 Kraton is getting here this Saturday! I think I'm going to try the Hot Racing Steering rack with their adjustable servo saver tube (AON48A02). I have a 729MBL that I'm going to use, you still loving the Hot Racing servo mount?
@@EastTactics Just ordered my Kraton V5 and I quickly found out that your channel is THE PLACE to go for Kraton tips and tricks! Great channel, thank you!
Believe it or not the servo mount that I have in my V4 is actually from voltage hobbies. I haven’t heard the voltage hobbies name though. Wonder if they’re still around.
Thanks to your kraton steering vids , I just installed the ph760 in my kraton 6s v5 with the hot racing servo mount and I used the hot racing servo kit and servo tube. Dark here so I haven't driven it outside but doing the floor tests on carpet and grass I definitely get full steering now and much faster than the stock servo. Thank you for the information and all of your hard work! I can't wait to go test it outside driving tomorrow!!!! I did have to add 10mm of spacer to the servo saver for the factory arrma steering link from the servo arm to the saver to make the link parallel.
I can’t believe it I made myself a old heatsink from m old Redcat and found a delta fan with a different name C something something and I made a wicked bashing fan holy crap. The blades are almost 4 mm thick wow what a steal of a deal it all cost me a grand total of 8 bucks. And now I have a 3 s capable bash fan. 👊😊 Thanks for these type of vids BRUTHA from a different motha 🤝👍👌😎
Just learned of your website.. great learning knowledge videos. Thanks.. I recently bought a RTR 6s kraton.. went out for maybe 15th run.. lost the use of steering servos . The esc cuttings on and off..Went to replace ,found the power wire from the esc and on off button were severing between esc and servos mount..
Hey man thanks for this video. I’ve only been into the 6s platform for 5 months now and I’ve been avoiding messing with the steering since it was the most intimidating to me. Your video made it super easy for me to put the snap rings on my servo saver. Between that, and the Perfect Pass Monster servo, my Talion EXB is a scalpel with backflip 4s tires on grass!
Love your channel. Your videos and formats are so informative and interesting to watch. Thanks for the content helps alot only been in hobby for about 2 years now still learning all sorts of tricks and your channel has helped. Thanks again love your vids
Brilliant video bro. Getting rid of that rubber under the servo was a great move. I've used countersunk washers to hold my servo to my alloy mount which works excellently too. I'm also running the 3 snap rings under my SS and I swear by them. Best steering I've ever had. Keep up the great vids brother, love yur work.
I just bought almost the same servo just this last weekend. Same brand same everything except its a lower model. 500oz at 7.4v and I absolutely love it on on my 6s kraton so I bet this one will be even better but I highly recommend that servo. It's so quiet!!
I know right! I was absolutely blown away by the significant difference between spending just a little bit more on a better quality servo. You got yourself a good one there too
I commented on the other video but I finished just a few mins ago and a huge HUGE improvement. I added the bearings as well and turns like it should with more power
Such a fantastic real world tests to show how the engineering numbers relate to the simple real world need of turning tires. Looking forward to seeing how your voltage increase works on your wheel turn chart!
Keep them coming man i have an Arrma Mojave that im trying to get up and running, lots of useful hints and tips thus far, also love the punisher fan caps or whatever they are lol
Hey buddy anytime I need technical help and repair I search and automatically go to you for my default choice. These are invaluable to alot of guys like me that's for sure and i appreciate taking the time to film these. Do you happen to know what size snap rings those are I would need? Also I've been running the jx brushless HV 46kg servo from Amazon in my reeper with 8s backflips and has been a great budget servo. I believe the powerhobby ones are the same thing just a rebrand and markup. It's in the same case as the PH one. The jx brushless HV 46kg is about $50-$60 and I have the jx 36kg HV ecoboost in my kraton exb and seems to do a good job as well. Now admittedly I'm not a pro so in reality they might not be super powerful but seem to do the trick. Big difference in both trucks and my reeper used to have trouble centering back up before. 👍🍻🍻
Awesome as always brother. I changed mine to a power hd and much improved for $30 I can’t see dumping 150$ servo for bashing but that’s just me. I figured good enough for rcdude81 then great for me 😆👍 I’m on stock tires though I’m sure mine would still struggle with trenchers
Hello East Tactics, I’ve seen your name rolling around, I subscribed to check out your videos brother! I’m so guilty of using the stock servo until they fail. OMG! The stock servos are that weak?! Yikes! Great info! I’m always down with making my cars better! Thank you!!!👍💯
STEERING ISSUES…PILLOWBALLS ! I started my comment with that word to get any newbies attention who are having steering issues out of the box and blaming a defective servo. I loved the look of the Arrma Typhon and got the 3s V3 at my LHS to try out a brushless, learn about Lipo and get back into the hobby. It’s awesome (wish I got the 6s now) but I wanted to try an Arrma truck so I got the Kraton 6s a few weeks ago and the thing would not steer. I tried steering it in grass, dirt, on a stand and the wheels would barely move. I tried everything….I took out the steering servo to see if it was broken from the factory then I took the front wheels off and tried to take out the 5mm pillowballs cap and they were sooo tight. I got the right side off and when I took off the left pillowball cap the wheels just fell sideways. So… for anyone that is new to Arrma and it will not steer or return to center if it does steer, loosen up those round red things with a 5 mm Allen. I’ve searched RUclips and there’s only a couple of videos about this. Yes, the servo is your run of the mill, RTR servo and 15 kg/cm is very low power but losen those pillowball caps before you burn out your servo.
@@EastTactics NO thank you!!! To rbe honest I think this is a horrible design. I know you did this but I think removing the servo from the equation is a very important part of setting pillowballs that’s over looked. I’m still confused how to set them perfectly. I know a few people have burned out servos by unboxing, putting in batteries and taking it for a spin like myself not knowing they’re tight. When I put them back in to factory I was amazed the servo even made the wheels turn they were so tight!
I was going to lube them but as we all know any grease or lube attracts dirt and dirt is abrasive so idk what to do. East Tactics, are there other, more reliable and less basic options to replace them. I would prefer the 3s version over the Pillowballs. I appreciate your hard work and the time you put into all of your videos. THANK YOU!
@@EastTactics YES!! That was the very first video I watched and it’s the only one I found that explains it step by step and I can’t say thank you enough! Your videos have the perfect lighting, pace, and explanations. You’re my go-to when it comes to my Typhon and Kraton now so please make more vids🙏🏻 I was just wondering if you love them or think they’re could be a better system than pillowballs?
Awesome video. You do need to solid mount your servo with aluminum spacers otherwise it will swing side to side never going back to a perfect 0 degree. You can see yours moving quite a bit. Only do it with aluminum case servos. The plastic servo case will snap the winglets off if hard-mounted. You will see quite an improvement by removing the plastic spacers under the servo mounting winglets and placing aluminum ones.
At which part in the video did you notice my servo was wobbly. Because Yeah, there is some parts where footage shows previous builds where it was lose. But by the end of this vid/project, after doing all that I did. That sucker didn’t budge back-and-forth in anyway. 😎 Thanks I’m really glad you liked it. I always appreciate your comments because you offer your thoughts and ideas.
Oh it’s just a random piece of anodized aluminum. Like a little mini shaft you see them all the time come with certain fan packages, etc. I just happen to have a bunch of them on me. Any sort of solid tubing as a spacer would work.
Great video, exactly what I was looking for. Just installed a new Savox SC1256 in my Kraton but was still getting weak steering. One question tho, any reason you use snap rings instead of an o ring/washer? Cheers and you def earned a sub from me!
Yeah back in the day during the era my specific rig shipped from the manufacture they were using a ton of Loctite on the servo saver. And it was an absolute nightmare to get that thing apart. I’ve heard they backed off a bit from doing that but still it can be a little bit of a challenge to get that thing taken apart. So you can use an washer if you wanna take your snap ring apart. The idea of using a snap ring just kinda makes it to where you can go in from the side and snap it in there and not have to worry about taking the servo saver apart.
U fixed my issue with this video I’m going in my den right effin NOW. But my issue is the hot racing servo saver for 8s Outcast doing exactly what ur saying in ur video, will not turn at a standstill but works find while driving AANNDD!!!! I have it tightened all the way down.
Hey man great video just picked up a kraton and absolutely hate the steering, thanks for the videos👍btw it's super easy to get that servo saver apart (even with the loctite) and add washers. Just compress the spring by hand and push the top end out of the plastic sleeve then grab it with a vice and take it apart with a 13mm. If you are interested I'm I could send you photos 👍
I hear what you’re saying, however there were a huge batch released by arrma back in the early V4 era when they actually did put way too much Loctite in there. They have since backed off. Either way, however you get the job done the hope is to see that steering get improved. Thanks for watching👍😎
Ok, so I'm a complete noob and got around to installing that exact servo. In the air it works beautifully but on carpet the servo saver is opening up. I need to find vids on putting on snap rings and adjusting the tension on the servo saver. Love your vids East💯🤘6s v5
@@EastTactics so with that servo and the hot racing servo arm it's sitting very high on servo saver screw, like at a big angle. Do I need a longer screw coming up through the servo saver? Would that longer screw pose a problem? Thanks in advance.
I actually bought a servo saver years ago from a V3 and put it on my V4. Really helped me tighten that steering up with an AGF 45KG servo. The V3’s servo saver is adjustable. Hence the random hole you see on the bottom of the chassis. I also had the same Savox servo in mine. It worked great when I had Proline Badlands on it but that’s because they were much smaller than my Duratrax tires. Tried the duratrax tires which are a fraction larger than the stock tires and I had no steering. At all.
@@EastTactics The next thing I will be doing to mine is go to the Firma 160A ESC so ill get to see how my AGF Servo does with 8.4V. Currently using the Max8 combo with 2200KV and set the BEC to 7.4V. Keeps getting in to thermal protection... If you've ever run that 160A ESC with a 1250KV motor, what pinion should be used? Mainly looking for a good balance of speed and bashing capability without melting electronics.
It’s funny you mention the firma 160. I picked up the exb when it was on sale a few months ago. I snagged the firma 160 and a 1730kv motor. I’m excited to rock it here come spring . I’ll initially be using the savox 1210 in it, and pumped 8.4 to it (that should live’n It up, if not fry it lol) 🤔 1250 kv, that’s relatively lower then most go super torquey I bet!! Lol. You’ll want to go pretty big on the pinion to recoup some of that desired speed. I’d start at 23t, get a feel for it, see if it’s fast enough for ya, and keep that temp gun handy. Might even be able to go higher like 25t… not sure though.
@@EastTactics Just for curiosity, I plugged in my current pinion with 2200KV in to some calculator. I'm running the 14T on my Kraton right now. Says the theoretical top speed is like 55 mph. A 22T or 23T with the 1250KV should being it up to that top speed. I have a small feeling I am running in to cooling issues with the Proline body. I'm also in Florida so it doesn't help. I will keep those pinions in mind though! Thanks buddy! Love the videos!
Please help. Servo endpoint settings on the 8s exb rtr v2 seems deferent. The v2 is fairly new and there’s no videos? How to set servo endpoints on the new outcast 8s exb v2. Thanks in advance
Exactly the video I was looking for:) ya couldn't have done it better, even got the snap ring size in the description. Thanks again and hope you have a wonderful week
Hi ET. I upgraded to a metal front bulkhead and now my steering rack is hitting the bulkhead and dramatically reduced steering throw. Im pretty sure I've seen you install a steering rack to avoid this..? Only, i cant find the vid...
Hey Jon, Can you click on the asq me feature found in the top of the description. Use it to send me a video describing and showing your issue. This will allow me to see exactly what might be happening.
Sure no shims are needed between the steering bearings and the aluminium plate after the upgrade from the bushings? No binding after tightening down those torx screws?
No bearings are necessary, and as far as binding goes. That’s dependent on if you over tighten it. By design you can get those screws pretty snug and binding doesn’t happen. However naturally if you way over tighten things that could happen. The torque screws are there simply because this is one of the common areas that you do not want To loosen up. So using blue or red Loctite is recommended. After using Loctite though those stock screw heads strip way too easily. Hence the Torx screws. Or heat…
East, Patreon supporter and long time sub here. you HAVE to check out Practical Prototype Solutions for your motor mount. the fit, finish, and SUPERB packaging is Stellar / Bar-None for sure. I have a Momba Monster X 8s with an Castle 1650Kv in my EXB and the way that the motor mount snugs the pinion gear to the spur gear is pure genius… perfect mating beaten the two gears every time with ZERO slippage. That makes for changing pinion gears on the fly effortless. If nothing else… kindly let the peoples know.
Interesting, I’m gonna be converting over my electronics to a new motor and ESC. Would be cool to take a look at that. Is that the name of his RUclips channel? Or does he have a website? Maybe you could drop a link Oh… and thank you 🙏 for the support!
That is pretty sweet!, Looks like he’s sold out though at the moment. Do you know him? Wondering if he would be interested in streamlining one to me and then I could promote it for him. Then again he may not an over influx of orders (potentially) if he’s having trouble keeping up stock.
@@EastTactics if you scroll down all the way to the bottom of the page there is a” back order” link, I contacted him and he stated that he actually had some on the shelf and had not updated the web page with inventory and I received mine within 4 days (East Coast, Virginia). I don’t know him personally, kinda ran across his web page on accident. I know you always are looking for the best and in my opinion I think that it is and so I had to share my experience with you and others who may potentially be interested as well. Or maybe you could just contact him directly he has an email link and he responded fairly quickly.
@@Xiggy4Ever Sweet! I sent him a message through Facebook messenger. Waiting for him to reply. Brother! Thank you so much for the heads up it’ll be a great thing to show everyone. And drum up some orders for this fellow.
@@EastTactics I set my AVC to a commentary button on my radio. It's only on while I hold the button and off when I release it. That way It's dead straight heading toward the ramp and off when in the air. Took me a few days to get used to it but eventually, it was like second nature, lol.
Pyronitro - CUSTOM 4MM FAN COVERS AND KILLER SKID PLATES FOR YOUR RIG 40mm Motor or ESC Fan Covers, 3D Punisher Skull www.ebay.com/sch/pyro-nitro/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
I ran the same Powerhobby servo running at 7.5 volts. Steering was an amazing improvement but only for awhile. It didn’t take long to get the servo to heat up and went into what appeared to be a safe mode. Steering was practically nonexistent after that. Have you experienced any of that with this unit? My servo saver is pretty torqued down, maybe too much?
Funny im not the only one who puts a flash light in there mouth even more when i solder i so need my hands and to see and always a flash light ends up in my bloody mouth 😂
Check out this video ruclips.net/video/cDQDCrXtKos/видео.html In this vids description is a link to the gentleman’s eBay store. These are for 40mm fans, which would be the same DIY fans one would use on the 8s line. I just bought an 8s ESC and plan to tos it in my 6S. Plan to use the same fans See this vid regarding diy fans ruclips.net/video/Ppf7kR6Pvs0/видео.html
The most impactful thing I found with improving steering is simply getting a high-end servo. Next to that it’s adjusting the servo saver tightness. Do you know the method of adjusting the tightness of your service saver for the Losi
Don't think its the servo,I've removed servo horn from servo and manually moved steering mechanism left and right, steerings very sharp turning left but something stops it turning right fully, it would be easier if you bought a losi lasernut and do a vid,joke😃👍
Lol… gotta get me a losi eh! Do you know what it might actually be. By design the Ackerman of your vehicle is going to turn the inner tire more than the outer tire. So whichever way your turning the tire that’s closer to the inside of the turn it’s going to have more angle on the inside tire. Is that what your seeing? If it’s not that, have you checked the steering end points on your servo? Sometimes one of the endpoints be it the left or the right might be completely out of whack. So it’s not reaching its full potential. Remove your servo horn, and make sure that your steering trim is centered on your transmitter before you reattach your servo horn. Then adjust your steering end points
Not yet, between a few things outside of RC that I’ve slowed down my video production and the fact that I am slowly rebuilding my vehicle back together after a gnarly wreck with a bunch of M2C parts and creating a video series for each one. Hosting the jump competition has also been time consuming. One of the downsides of being a content creator and still having a full-time job. Not enough time to just throw it all together And call it a day. I’m super excited about them though, and they’ll likely consist of a lot of my continent next year when the warm season comes back around. 😎
@@EastTactics ty for the fast response.. I understand.. I have a Kraton 6s v4 With everything M2C Available except the ESC mount plate. . Thanks to your vid i ordered the Powerhobby Servo yesterday and i already have 2 snap rings on it.. i will wait for the servo to see if i need a 3rd one.. My Actual ESC is a 150 from a kraton v5..And i was thinking to go for the 160A with that Hobbywing motor and a 20 T pinion. But im afraid that the bigger ESC 160 wont fit and im not that savy in Einstein something like that..lol I think i need a little more power because i feel the Kraton on the heavier side after i upgraded with all the M2C parts. Do you have a link for the 1730 motor you got? Thanks.
@@mora9426 That makes sense, the firma 160 is a bit large and will require some Mcgiver'ing to get her in. From what I understand the four mounting points jut out on all four corners of the unit. 3 of which have to be completely dremeled off. A combination of using 1 of the mounting points as well as quality (emphasis on quality) double sided mounting tape. The only real perk of getting the Firma 160, aside from the fact the people seem to really like the stability and power it offers, is that it stays in the spektrum family, so if your planning to use any of the smart technology, telemetry perks when having both ESC, receiver, battery, and a transmitter with upgraded abilities. If those things are not of too much interest to you, you might just consider getting the MAX 6. M2C's ESC plate has been designed to literally plug and play with pre drilled mounting holes and everything. So thats something to consider. As far as the motor I ordered.. I snagged mine off Ebay. I asked Rich duperbash which motor for the 6s was his favorite. He siad the 1730. here is the link www.ebay.com/itm/172708923510
@@EastTactics Nice.. i was watching his vid and i saw his setups then i notice you got same motor that's why i asked. I'm going also to downsize the tires to backflips lp , i think that's what he runs. not sure maybe the 6s?.. i notice that usually people on bigger tires get heating problems quick and less battery life.. i wanna gear up not down, lol. I'm running a 15T at the moment. I usually run in grass and dirt since i have a huge baseball/ football field next to my house and jump a small ramp.. nothing crazy yet on the jumping.. I have Smart tech and i also run 2 3S SMC 8000 mah 120C when i wanna go wild..haha.. The good thing also about the 160A is that i don't have to weld the IC5 batt connectors,, its ready to go too.
At 29:09 The tires are sitting down on the rug, which similar to grass fights against those tires turning. The point of this particular section of the video however is that despite being in a terrain like grass/or carpet That nearly prevents the tires from moving much at all. The servo is strong enough to still push the servo arm all the way 100% to its maximal reach, or what I call touching the butt stop. So the servo was strong enough to do that. Now the reason why the tires didn’t move much was because the servo saver twisted open, which you can’t see from the angle I’m filming. But that’s OK because that is what the servo saver is designed for. Allowing the full movement of the servo, despite the tires being sort of locked up by the terrain. Imagine if I had my buddy come into the room and literally hold the tires to where they could not move at all, and then I twisted the steering, if the servo saver didn’t twist open it would be a really quick way to break your servo. So yeah you saw a little movement because the servo saver twisted open in that particular section of the video. Does that answer your question? Anyway you know you’re getting 100% steering with your vehicle if despite the terrain locking up your tires your servo still is strong enough to reach its full endpoint. Hence the name of the video.
@@EastTactics "if the servo saver didn’t twist open it would be a really quick way to break your servo". nah the servo just wouldnt turn. thats how my crawler is, no saver. it gets in a jam and if the car doesnt pivot around the tires is just doesnt move. the purpose of a servo saver is for high speed jolts. the servo wont destroy itself (any one capable of doing so has metal gears making it a non issue) but an impact will and these cars have lots of impacts.
Well yeah, it depends on the strength of the servo. When you start getting into these higher weight vehicles that weigh 15-20 pounds With 8+ volts pushing over 740 torque . The threshold of even metal gears can strip or wear fairly quickly if your servo saver isn’t working in scenarios like carpet and grass at a stand still. On a smaller rig, if your steering gets locked up completely on a rock or something like that then yeah the voltage going to the servo will simply just stop the servo no problem. But again those are on a smaller scale situation’s. Things are different with the bigger scale vehicles. However I do 100% agree with you that those jolts also play the same role irregardless of vehicle scale. And the servo saver is there for those scenarios as well. But I will tell you with the amount of power I’m pushing toward my servo if there was no servo saver… sure maybe for the first few weeks the servo would stop itself but overtime it would strip those gears, metal or not. Either way, it’s really beside the point. The point is that I recommend upgrading to a much more powerful servo that can maximize The full forward and back motion regardless of what your servo saver is set to. But the servo savers do actually come from the manufacture way too loose especially back in the V4 era, that’s why people put snap rings in it to tighten it up so that more power could be presented to your steering. After doing that though the stock strength of the servo was way too weak.
The rubber dampers are for vertical shock absorption. If anything the more use of rubber dampers increases looseness in side to side slop. Therefore increasing the need of that metal shim. Does that make sense. I hope I’m understanding your question properly.
The V5 will run the 760 MG servo at 7.4V. Yes. However it will push 680 ounces of torque. Which is what I’m pushing in the finale of the vid. No need for a bec. 😎💪
@@EastTactics Just wanted to follow up and say I got the servo installed. Wow. This thing makes the blue amazon special look like a toy. Worth every penny!
I upgrade my servo and used diff shims on the servo saver and it helped out a lot. I have a kraton 6s v5 and put bigger tires on it. And now I’m having major issues with my diff I shimmed the hell out of them and there still striping and the little pen that holds the out drive breaks too. Do you have any fixes I can do to my diff with out buying the crazy price EXB diff and out gear?i love the help with the steering thanks just seen too it looks like you have the same tires I have proline something
What size pinion are you running on your motor? What fluids are you running in your diffs, rear, center, front. What punch setting you running Break down how you shimmed your diffs, did you shim both the insides as well as the outside? What specific gears are stripping? Answers to these can help me help you. :)
Wow! 😯 I didn't know about that. You know Arrma though... always listening and updating parts. Maybe not the best at advertising them though... I think I might make a video on this... just to let people know. A) this would be needed in the v4. And that if they have an EXB, snap rings may not be needed. Of course I'll test to see if it really is stiff enough, or a 1 snap ring might still be recommended. Does this spring only come stock on the EXB, or does it ship with the v5?
@@EastTactics Sure, it dont come with the V5, have one and same issue. Also, the Xhard spring is not painted but plated, not black like the V4 and V5 ones
I just now ordered the EXB version just to see how much different it really is. And if it does away with a need for snap rings. Thanks for the heads up on this
Mostly just experimental, by positioning the turnbuckles in the upward position, it increases the sharp/cut angle of the inner tire on the turn. Thus providing sharper slow speed turns as well as the initial portion of a high speed turn. Being honest though, haven’t been able to really tell the difference.
@@EastTactics I'm probably the only autistic person who noticed lol. But yeah the difference isn't that much change in Ackerman considering tall floppy tires of a basher, not a agile buggy on a groomed track
Yes to some degree, but you have to weigh the benefits of each factor. Side to side wobble is absolutely unacceptable. In my opinion. I could’ve put a rubber cushion around the servo to help tighten it but that would still lend to side to side wobble. In fact that’s what I did in my previous servo. Now… that said, the piece of metal I put in isn’t so tight that it doesn’t allow for up and down movement which means that the shock absorption material underneath the servo is still in play.
Ok, question…will the stock K6s V5 ESC handle that high torque servo without browning out; with stick arms and turnbuckles? Or, would a external BEC still be needed to take the brunt?
Yes… The stock Spectrum ESC that comes with a V5 is perfectly capable to run with this servo. In fact it will run it at the 7.4 V which is 680 ounces of torque. So you’re good! Regarding your front turnbuckles. They are fine as stock to, however if you’re looking to upgrade those here’s what I would suggest. ruclips.net/video/FTyxuJ47pm8/видео.html
@@EastTactics sweet TY ET! Just for confirmation, this servo is 100% fully plug-n-play and safe to run without an external, added battery and/or BEC in a stock K6s V5 then?
@@EastTactics Man your detail and descriptions in your Kraton videos are killer. Heavy Metal RC launched me from his doodoo ramp over here to subscribe while I was watching his kraton steering video.
I was looking into this servo and it looks really tall. Did you need to space it up a lot to keep it from hitting the chassis? It also looks like you put some kind of spacer on the linkage so its not at an angle to get to the servo saver.
It’s really not a whole lot taller than most servos. I think it’s roughly 43mm tall. My Prior savox SW1210 sg sat about 39 mm tall. It also might look like it sits a little taller because I put down two layers of Sorbothane cushioning on to the chassis first. And then I put the servo on top of that. So the servo isn’t floating, it’s supported by the padding connected to the chassis. I go above and beyond for shock absorption when it comes to my servo. You’ll also notice as I’m pretty sure the video describes I put padding Sorbothane and a solid rectangular composite piece down first before the grommets themselves touchdown. Perhaps because of my padding raising the servo up a bit you may notice a section in this video it talks about a special solid metal plate that I put on the front side of the servo to both get rid of that slop side to side movement you see, as well as supply horizontal strength to the system. All in all it’s been working amazing. Yes I do put a spacer in on the servo saver arm to get the servo arm at Self level.
@@EastTactics thanks for the info. Does the servo need to be padded? I have a solid aluminum bashitrc mount and I figured the more solid it is the more precise the steering would be.
It is true the more solid the mount the more precise as well as the more power you can present to your steering system. That’s why I stress highly to get rid of side to side slop as that’s the kind of movement that you’re talking about if loose takes away from the steering. However up and down movement, specifically the up-and-down movement allowed from the shock absorption put directly underneath both the very bottom of the servo as well as the grommets, has nothing to do with the Takeaway of power to the steering system. However shock padding added in this area does in my opinion prevent damage received from massive chassis slap, which is the cause for a lot of broken servos out there.
It can, especially the kind when landing on concrete or extremely hard gravel with Really big air. I have a whole playlist dedicated to shock mitigation if you wanna check it out. ruclips.net/p/PL9UjUE_DygV8mQtUYiCRREgQvV8OR61Jn
You don’t need to replace the servo. I still run my stock servo I just added a few circlips. Now I can drive her on 2 wheels no problem. The stock servo is pretty decent. My revo is heavier then my kraton and I’ll I needed was 250oz. If you adjust your servo saver no need to spend that much money. I have the v5 idk if that’s why but I have no problem with that stock spektrum servo.
All good brother, I’ve added three snap ring clips to my servo savor. In fact that is the reason why I feel the upgraded servo with higher torque is necessary. The tighter you make your servo saver the more torque is needed for 100% steering. The stock servo will certainly get the job done however if you want to achieve 100% steering then I suggest you do the servo saver test. Grab your front tires and hold them fixed. Then turn your steering 100% and see if your servo Is strong enough to tweak your servo saver open all the way so that your arm completely but stops against the upper hinge pin notch. My guess is you may not of watched the whole video because you recommended using sir clips. However about 50% of this video is talking about those clips lol. It also goes over in Great detail The test I’m recommending you try to see if you’re not just getting good steering but 100% steering😎💪💪
Depending on your ESC, it may or may not have the option to adjust a setting to allow it to output various settings. The BLX 85. Yes he does not have the option to output 7.4 V its maximum at 6 V. However, I have installed an external BEC component into my rig, which does allow me to adjust this particular ESC to output, 7.4 V not through the ESC itself however, but through the BEC search my videos for how to install an external BEC.
@@EastTactics ap yep, i want search a external bec that allow me change 7,4 Max output to 8,4v for allow servo use his Max voltaje I see other video about the coat of body with rinho and i buy an spray something similar its call raptor Sorrry about my english im spanish I LOVE your Channel Good day, here is 9am
yeah, i noticed at 3:51 that before you do all the upgrades and extra stuff, try removing the rubber o-rings that connect the servo to the servo mount cause of all the initial movement at the base of the servo is going to have a larger negative effect than any upgrades down the line. looking like a fun rig when its all said and done.
I just gotta say dude... you make some of the most comprehensive videos with Arrma tips, tricks and mods than anyone out there.
Everything stock can be made better and you share your out of the box knowledge with great detail.
I am that RC guy localy that everyone comes to for help so I believe you and I think alike.
So even though I watch most of the other popular content creators, I really pay attention to your vids.
I have a couple Arrma's in my collection and I make sure I watch for your notifications letting me know every time you release a new vid.
If only we could meet and share knowledge.
Keep up the good work.
Thank you for what you do.
Mad props brother!
Chris, if I didn’t get another single comment on this video I would be OK with that. Your comment just made my week! Really appreciate it brother.
@@EastTactics
HOOAH! (Army salute)
@@EastTacticsyou wouldn’t happen to be buying some tires for a rig yesterday. I was conversing with someone that sounds like you. Didn’t ask if he had his own channel but if it’s you. I was in hobby shop with my new outcast 8s exb that wouldn’t bind out of box. Now’s it’s not turning enough smh. Maybe it’s not you but if it is or not. Congratulations on your channel
Hey, thanks for the congratulations. That must not have been me tho 😆
You sir are a legend 🤛 all that changing/testing then changing again/testing is sooo time consuming . You deserve a BIG thank you 🙏 keep up the good work 👍👌👍
30:27 lol BUMP stop. it bumps into the stop. thats funny
Bump stop… butt stop.
Yeah I think I had it wrong. But you get the point lol
Wow, I am so glad I subbed a while back to your channel. I own 3 Arrma Granites, and I boughtan HSP brand rc to try out. It had a nightmare servo saver like your... I was trying everything to make it work better, I learned alot from HSP: a) avoid any RC that uses steel 'dogbone shafts' [they constantly bend or break... b) never deal with an rc with that type of servo saver! The Granite has the round plastic spring loaded servo saver, and after 3 years (V1) it has never been a problem, one of the few parts that has been excellent. The stock servo went dead in the first month. I installed all Annimos 35kg stainless steel gear servos and never a problem ever again.
Great vid and info as always. p.s. The HSP found a place in our local dumpster, got tired of buying replacement 'dogbones and axles that snapped off at the threads... r.i.p. HSP :+{
ALSO I changed over all my screws to stainless steel 'Socket cap head' screws (Boltdepot dot com) They use 2.5mm hex driver and never strip like the stock 'button head's.
Hi East I have a notorious v5 which has the spektrum smart esc.the esc has switchable bec 6v/7.4v. I put it on 7.4v and I'm running power hd 25kg servo which also runs on 7.4v.just put 3 snap rings on the servo saver and the difference is night and day. I now have great steering. Man you are the best. Thank you for this😁😁😁
Nice! That’s music to my ears! Glad I helped 😎👍
Subbed a month ago and came across these videos literally a day or 2 after getting my Kraton V5. As everyone else has mentioned, the steering in grass was terrible. Per your videos, I added 3 snap rings, and the same power hobby servo. Put in hot racing mount and servo arm along with the ball bearings instead of the bushings. The shims for the servo mount idea was great too. It is a night and day difference in driving it now. Thanks for all the efforts in the videos. Keep em coming!
These are the types of comments that waking up to makes my day. Thanks for letting me know
I went for the $75 off sale and my V5 Kraton is getting here this Saturday! I think I'm going to try the Hot Racing Steering rack with their adjustable servo saver tube (AON48A02). I have a 729MBL that I'm going to use, you still loving the Hot Racing servo mount?
@@EastTactics Just ordered my Kraton V5 and I quickly found out that your channel is THE PLACE to go for Kraton tips and tricks! Great channel, thank you!
Believe it or not the servo mount that I have in my V4 is actually from voltage hobbies.
I haven’t heard the voltage hobbies name though. Wonder if they’re still around.
@@QuinnsRC just dont forget the snap rings on the servo saver. I wouldn't even bother driving it on grass without it. East Tactics videos are spot on!
Thanks to your kraton steering vids , I just installed the ph760 in my kraton 6s v5 with the hot racing servo mount and I used the hot racing servo kit and servo tube. Dark here so I haven't driven it outside but doing the floor tests on carpet and grass I definitely get full steering now and much faster than the stock servo. Thank you for the information and all of your hard work! I can't wait to go test it outside driving tomorrow!!!! I did have to add 10mm of spacer to the servo saver for the factory arrma steering link from the servo arm to the saver to make the link parallel.
Fantastic bro, glad the information was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I can’t believe it I made myself a old heatsink from m old Redcat and found a delta fan with a different name C something something and I made a wicked bashing fan holy crap.
The blades are almost 4 mm thick wow what a steal of a deal it all cost me a grand total of 8 bucks. And now I have a 3 s capable bash fan. 👊😊
Thanks for these type of vids BRUTHA from a different motha 🤝👍👌😎
Just learned of your website.. great learning knowledge videos. Thanks.. I recently bought a RTR 6s kraton.. went out for maybe 15th run.. lost the use of steering servos . The esc cuttings on and off..Went to replace ,found the power wire from the esc and on off button were severing between esc and servos mount..
Glad you were able to find the issue. And also glad you find my website. Appreciate the comment. ever need anything feel free to reach out.
Hey man thanks for this video. I’ve only been into the 6s platform for 5 months now and I’ve been avoiding messing with the steering since it was the most intimidating to me.
Your video made it super easy for me to put the snap rings on my servo saver. Between that, and the Perfect Pass Monster servo, my Talion EXB is a scalpel with backflip 4s tires on grass!
Love your channel. Your videos and formats are so informative and interesting to watch. Thanks for the content helps alot only been in hobby for about 2 years now still learning all sorts of tricks and your channel has helped. Thanks again love your vids
Thanks Brendan, I love to hear it. It means a lot that you took the time to let me know. 🤜🤛
Brilliant video bro. Getting rid of that rubber under the servo was a great move. I've used countersunk washers to hold my servo to my alloy mount which works excellently too. I'm also running the 3 snap rings under my SS and I swear by them. Best steering I've ever had.
Keep up the great vids brother, love yur work.
Thanks for sharing your Amazon list, make shit way easier to find !
Glad it helped brother!
Thanks. Very detailed explanation. All the best
Glad you liked it
I just bought almost the same servo just this last weekend. Same brand same everything except its a lower model. 500oz at 7.4v and I absolutely love it on on my 6s kraton so I bet this one will be even better but I highly recommend that servo. It's so quiet!!
I know right! I was absolutely blown away by the significant difference between spending just a little bit more on a better quality servo. You got yourself a good one there too
You got yourself a subscriber ! I watched an older video with you adding the snap rings I’ll test it tonight and let you know how it works
Nice! Thx JPEG
I commented on the other video but I finished just a few mins ago and a huge HUGE improvement. I added the bearings as well and turns like it should with more power
Great instructional video. I only have 3s Arrma's but the concept is similar and yes the stock servo is junk.
Such a fantastic real world tests to show how the engineering numbers relate to the simple real world need of turning tires. Looking forward to seeing how your voltage increase works on your wheel turn chart!
Thx!!
Dude... Been a subscriber for a while. You still continue to go that extra mile on the details... Cheers bud. 👍 All the best.
Thx Joe!
I say it again I learn so much from your videos.
Thx Troy! Totally glad I could help.
Keep them coming man i have an Arrma Mojave that im trying to get up and running, lots of useful hints and tips thus far, also love the punisher fan caps or whatever they are lol
Thx Steve!!
Hey buddy anytime I need technical help and repair I search and automatically go to you for my default choice. These are invaluable to alot of guys like me that's for sure and i appreciate taking the time to film these. Do you happen to know what size snap rings those are I would need? Also I've been running the jx brushless HV 46kg servo from Amazon in my reeper with 8s backflips and has been a great budget servo. I believe the powerhobby ones are the same thing just a rebrand and markup. It's in the same case as the PH one. The jx brushless HV 46kg is about $50-$60 and I have the jx 36kg HV ecoboost in my kraton exb and seems to do a good job as well. Now admittedly I'm not a pro so in reality they might not be super powerful but seem to do the trick. Big difference in both trucks and my reeper used to have trouble centering back up before. 👍🍻🍻
9/16 is the snap ring size
Thx for the comment and the compliment brother! 🤜🤛
Great topic that isn't covered that much. Well done.
Thx
This was very VERY informative! Thank you!
Thanks!!
Awesome as always brother. I changed mine to a power hd and much improved for $30 I can’t see dumping 150$ servo for bashing but that’s just me. I figured good enough for rcdude81 then great for me 😆👍 I’m on stock tires though I’m sure mine would still struggle with trenchers
Hello East Tactics, I’ve seen your name rolling around, I subscribed to check out your videos brother! I’m so guilty of using the stock servo until they fail. OMG! The stock servos are that weak?! Yikes! Great info! I’m always down with making my cars better! Thank you!!!👍💯
Anytime brother!!
STEERING ISSUES…PILLOWBALLS ! I started my comment with that word to get any newbies attention who are having steering issues out of the box and blaming a defective servo. I loved the look of the Arrma Typhon and got the 3s V3 at my LHS to try out a brushless, learn about Lipo and get back into the hobby. It’s awesome (wish I got the 6s now) but I wanted to try an Arrma truck so I got the Kraton 6s a few weeks ago and the thing would not steer. I tried steering it in grass, dirt, on a stand and the wheels would barely move. I tried everything….I took out the steering servo to see if it was broken from the factory then I took the front wheels off and tried to take out the 5mm pillowballs cap and they were sooo tight. I got the right side off and when I took off the left pillowball cap the wheels just fell sideways. So… for anyone that is new to Arrma and it will not steer or return to center if it does steer, loosen up those round red things with a 5 mm Allen. I’ve searched RUclips and there’s only a couple of videos about this. Yes, the servo is your run of the mill, RTR servo and 15 kg/cm is very low power but losen those pillowball caps before you burn out your servo.
Thanks DPC, really appreciate it.
@@EastTactics NO thank you!!! To rbe honest I think this is a horrible design. I know you did this but I think removing the servo from the equation is a very important part of setting pillowballs that’s over looked. I’m still confused how to set them perfectly. I know a few people have burned out servos by unboxing, putting in batteries and taking it for a spin like myself not knowing they’re tight. When I put them back in to factory I was amazed the servo even made the wheels turn they were so tight!
I’m sure you’ve figured it out… but this might be helpful.
ruclips.net/video/MtCNn-Qc-Dc/видео.html
I was going to lube them but as we all know any grease or lube attracts dirt and dirt is abrasive so idk what to do. East Tactics, are there other, more reliable and less basic options to replace them. I would prefer the 3s version over the Pillowballs. I appreciate your hard work and the time you put into all of your videos. THANK YOU!
@@EastTactics YES!! That was the very first video I watched and it’s the only one I found that explains it step by step and I can’t say thank you enough! Your videos have the perfect lighting, pace, and explanations. You’re my go-to when it comes to my Typhon and Kraton now so please make more vids🙏🏻 I was just wondering if you love them or think they’re could be a better system than pillowballs?
Its amazing what science and legit testing can achieve, great job man.
Awesome I will try this
Awesome video. You do need to solid mount your servo with aluminum spacers otherwise it will swing side to side never going back to a perfect 0 degree. You can see yours moving quite a bit. Only do it with aluminum case servos. The plastic servo case will snap the winglets off if hard-mounted. You will see quite an improvement by removing the plastic spacers under the servo mounting winglets and placing aluminum ones.
At which part in the video did you notice my servo was wobbly. Because Yeah, there is some parts where footage shows previous builds where it was lose. But by the end of this vid/project, after doing all that I did. That sucker didn’t budge back-and-forth in anyway. 😎
Thanks I’m really glad you liked it. I always appreciate your comments because you offer your thoughts and ideas.
Very helpn video budd Hey quick question man what are you using to space the steering line on servo saver side
Oh it’s just a random piece of anodized aluminum. Like a little mini shaft you see them all the time come with certain fan packages, etc. I just happen to have a bunch of them on me. Any sort of solid tubing as a spacer would work.
Great video, exactly what I was looking for. Just installed a new Savox SC1256 in my Kraton but was still getting weak steering. One question tho, any reason you use snap rings instead of an o ring/washer? Cheers and you def earned a sub from me!
Yeah back in the day during the era my specific rig shipped from the manufacture they were using a ton of Loctite on the servo saver. And it was an absolute nightmare to get that thing apart. I’ve heard they backed off a bit from doing that but still it can be a little bit of a challenge to get that thing taken apart. So you can use an washer if you wanna take your snap ring apart. The idea of using a snap ring just kinda makes it to where you can go in from the side and snap it in there and not have to worry about taking the servo saver apart.
@@EastTactics ahh, makes sense. I stopped by Harbor Freight and got a snap ring kit and ready to get this Kraton turning fully!
U fixed my issue with this video I’m going in my den right effin NOW. But my issue is the hot racing servo saver for 8s Outcast doing exactly what ur saying in ur video, will not turn at a standstill but works find while driving AANNDD!!!! I have it tightened all the way down.
Glad I can help brother. 🔥😎👍
Very sweet setup!😎 Great job with the steering setup! Thank you for your diligence!
Thx Jessica😎
Hey man great video just picked up a kraton and absolutely hate the steering, thanks for the videos👍btw it's super easy to get that servo saver apart (even with the loctite) and add washers. Just compress the spring by hand and push the top end out of the plastic sleeve then grab it with a vice and take it apart with a 13mm. If you are interested I'm I could send you photos 👍
I hear what you’re saying, however there were a huge batch released by arrma back in the early V4 era when they actually did put way too much Loctite in there. They have since backed off.
Either way, however you get the job done the hope is to see that steering get improved.
Thanks for watching👍😎
How do you always seem to have the video I need....just when I need it? Thanks for another great video!
It’s because I’ve been officially dubbed your RC fairy godmother… 😂
perfect timing!
Ok, so I'm a complete noob and got around to installing that exact servo. In the air it works beautifully but on carpet the servo saver is opening up. I need to find vids on putting on snap rings and adjusting the tension on the servo saver. Love your vids East💯🤘6s v5
Thanks! Let me know if you need help finding my video on snap ring installed
@@EastTactics so with that servo and the hot racing servo arm it's sitting very high on servo saver screw, like at a big angle. Do I need a longer screw coming up through the servo saver? Would that longer screw pose a problem? Thanks in advance.
Awesome. I just asked my group about steering issues and what’s the best servo one could use. Thanks again!
I actually bought a servo saver years ago from a V3 and put it on my V4. Really helped me tighten that steering up with an AGF 45KG servo. The V3’s servo saver is adjustable. Hence the random hole you see on the bottom of the chassis. I also had the same Savox servo in mine. It worked great when I had Proline Badlands on it but that’s because they were much smaller than my Duratrax tires. Tried the duratrax tires which are a fraction larger than the stock tires and I had no steering. At all.
Ya I’m loving this new servo. The 1210sg needs 7.4 v or it’s no bueno.
@@EastTactics The next thing I will be doing to mine is go to the Firma 160A ESC so ill get to see how my AGF Servo does with 8.4V. Currently using the Max8 combo with 2200KV and set the BEC to 7.4V. Keeps getting in to thermal protection... If you've ever run that 160A ESC with a 1250KV motor, what pinion should be used? Mainly looking for a good balance of speed and bashing capability without melting electronics.
It’s funny you mention the firma 160. I picked up the exb when it was on sale a few months ago. I snagged the firma 160 and a 1730kv motor. I’m excited to rock it here come spring . I’ll initially be using the savox 1210 in it, and pumped 8.4 to it (that should live’n It up, if not fry it lol)
🤔 1250 kv, that’s relatively lower then most go super torquey I bet!! Lol. You’ll want to go pretty big on the pinion to recoup some of that desired speed. I’d start at 23t, get a feel for it, see if it’s fast enough for ya, and keep that temp gun handy. Might even be able to go higher like 25t… not sure though.
@@EastTactics Just for curiosity, I plugged in my current pinion with 2200KV in to some calculator. I'm running the 14T on my Kraton right now. Says the theoretical top speed is like 55 mph. A 22T or 23T with the 1250KV should being it up to that top speed. I have a small feeling I am running in to cooling issues with the Proline body. I'm also in Florida so it doesn't help. I will keep those pinions in mind though! Thanks buddy! Love the videos!
Thank you my friend. Thx for following.
Awesome video man! Very well done. Thank you.
APPRECIATE YOUR INGENUITY BRO!
Thanks badger! 😎 thx for checking out the vid
@@EastTactics Not a prob bro.
Very nice tips! Could you tell what servo horn you are using please?
Thanks!!
It’s the one that came with the servo
amzn.to/3nLn48f
Hell yes!! Thank you bro!!
Great vid...very informative 👍
Great video 📹 thanks ❤️
Awesome video, not sure if you mentioned it but what size snap rings are you using?
9/16
@@EastTactics thank you!
Please help. Servo endpoint settings on the 8s exb rtr v2 seems deferent. The v2 is fairly new and there’s no videos? How to set servo endpoints on the new outcast 8s exb v2. Thanks in advance
Thank you
Anytime!! 😎👍
Exactly the video I was looking for:) ya couldn't have done it better, even got the snap ring size in the description.
Thanks again and hope you have a wonderful week
Hi ET. I upgraded to a metal front bulkhead and now my steering rack is hitting the bulkhead and dramatically reduced steering throw. Im pretty sure I've seen you install a steering rack to avoid this..? Only, i cant find the vid...
Hey Jon, Can you click on the asq me feature found in the top of the description. Use it to send me a video describing and showing your issue. This will allow me to see exactly what might be happening.
Link for torx screws that work for kraton? Awesome vid man getting ready to maintenance my steering system
M4 Torx screws - amzn.to/3y8m9RR
M3 Torx screws (for diffs etc) - amzn.to/3JxclGa
Sure no shims are needed between the steering bearings and the aluminium plate after the upgrade from the bushings? No binding after tightening down those torx screws?
No bearings are necessary, and as far as binding goes. That’s dependent on if you over tighten it. By design you can get those screws pretty snug and binding doesn’t happen. However naturally if you way over tighten things that could happen. The torque screws are there simply because this is one of the common areas that you do not want To loosen up. So using blue or red Loctite is recommended. After using Loctite though those stock screw heads strip way too easily. Hence the Torx screws. Or heat…
@@EastTactics I agree on using thread locker. I'll have a closer look at mine. I got ball bearings there too.
@@EastTactics I took a look and you were right. I used red threadlocker and tightened the screws without shims and the steering still moves freely.
That looked like a lot of work!
It was, but I was passionate about getting this info out there. That helped.
Thanks for watching
East, Patreon supporter and long time sub here.
you HAVE to check out Practical Prototype Solutions for your motor mount. the fit, finish, and SUPERB packaging is Stellar / Bar-None for sure.
I have a Momba Monster X 8s with an Castle 1650Kv in my EXB and the way that the motor mount snugs the pinion gear to the spur gear is pure genius… perfect mating beaten the two gears every time with ZERO slippage.
That makes for changing pinion gears on the fly effortless.
If nothing else… kindly let the peoples know.
Interesting, I’m gonna be converting over my electronics to a new motor and ESC. Would be cool to take a look at that. Is that the name of his RUclips channel? Or does he have a website? Maybe you could drop a link
Oh… and thank you 🙏 for the support!
Never mind I just searched him on RUclips and found the video. Checking it out now. Thanks! Definitely peaked my interest
That is pretty sweet!, Looks like he’s sold out though at the moment. Do you know him? Wondering if he would be interested in streamlining one to me and then I could promote it for him. Then again he may not an over influx of orders (potentially) if he’s having trouble keeping up stock.
@@EastTactics if you scroll down all the way to the bottom of the page there is a” back order” link, I contacted him and he stated that he actually had some on the shelf and had not updated the web page with inventory and I received mine within 4 days (East Coast, Virginia).
I don’t know him personally, kinda ran across his web page on accident.
I know you always are looking for the best and in my opinion I think that it is and so I had to share my experience with you and others who may potentially be interested as well.
Or maybe you could just contact him directly he has an email link and he responded fairly quickly.
@@Xiggy4Ever
Sweet!
I sent him a message through Facebook messenger. Waiting for him to reply.
Brother! Thank you so much for the heads up it’ll be a great thing to show everyone. And drum up some orders for this fellow.
Interested to see if that AVC effects jumping. Specifically while in the air.
Me too lol. At the very least I’ve got a much nicer transmitter now and maybe some interesting telemetry to gander at.
@@EastTactics I set my AVC to a commentary button on my radio. It's only on while I hold the button and off when I release it. That way It's dead straight heading toward the ramp and off when in the air. Took me a few days to get used to it but eventually, it was like second nature, lol.
I like that … I’ll have to look into it
Where did you get the red Punisher esc and motor fan guards?
Pyronitro -
CUSTOM 4MM FAN COVERS AND KILLER SKID PLATES FOR YOUR RIG
40mm Motor or ESC Fan Covers, 3D Punisher Skull
www.ebay.com/sch/pyro-nitro/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
I ran the same Powerhobby servo running at 7.5 volts. Steering was an amazing improvement but only for awhile. It didn’t take long to get the servo to heat up and went into what appeared to be a safe mode. Steering was practically nonexistent after that. Have you experienced any of that with this unit? My servo saver is pretty torqued down, maybe too much?
I haven’t, but thanks for the heads up. I’ll keep an eye out for that make sure I report if I do
Funny im not the only one who puts a flash light in there mouth even more when i solder i so need my hands and to see and always a flash light ends up in my bloody mouth 😂
😂😂
Solid video!
Great video!
Thanks!
Where did you get that fan cover for you esc an do they make them for the 8s line
Check out this video
ruclips.net/video/cDQDCrXtKos/видео.html
In this vids description is a link to the gentleman’s eBay store.
These are for 40mm fans, which would be the same DIY fans one would use on the 8s line. I just bought an 8s ESC and plan to tos it in my 6S. Plan to use the same fans
See this vid regarding diy fans
ruclips.net/video/Ppf7kR6Pvs0/видео.html
Can you do something with losi lasernut,steering in one direction is awful😕
The most impactful thing I found with improving steering is simply getting a high-end servo. Next to that it’s adjusting the servo saver tightness. Do you know the method of adjusting the tightness of your service saver for the Losi
Don't think its the servo,I've removed servo horn from servo and manually moved steering mechanism left and right, steerings very sharp turning left but something stops it turning right fully, it would be easier if you bought a losi lasernut and do a vid,joke😃👍
Lol… gotta get me a losi eh!
Do you know what it might actually be. By design the Ackerman of your vehicle is going to turn the inner tire more than the outer tire. So whichever way your turning the tire that’s closer to the inside of the turn it’s going to have more angle on the inside tire. Is that what your seeing?
If it’s not that, have you checked the steering end points on your servo? Sometimes one of the endpoints be it the left or the right might be completely out of whack. So it’s not reaching its full potential.
Remove your servo horn, and make sure that your steering trim is centered on your transmitter before you reattach your servo horn. Then adjust your steering end points
Did you install the 3 new components.. how it came out?.. I wanna see/know how that combo of ESC and motor works..
Not yet, between a few things outside of RC that I’ve slowed down my video production and the fact that I am slowly rebuilding my vehicle back together after a gnarly wreck with a bunch of M2C parts and creating a video series for each one. Hosting the jump competition has also been time consuming.
One of the downsides of being a content creator and still having a full-time job. Not enough time to just throw it all together And call it a day. I’m super excited about them though, and they’ll likely consist of a lot of my continent next year when the warm season comes back around. 😎
@@EastTactics ty for the fast response.. I understand.. I have a Kraton 6s v4 With everything M2C Available except the ESC mount plate. . Thanks to your vid i ordered the Powerhobby Servo yesterday and i already have 2 snap rings on it.. i will wait for the servo to see if i need a 3rd one.. My Actual ESC is a 150 from a kraton v5..And i was thinking to go for the 160A with that Hobbywing motor and a 20 T pinion. But im afraid that the bigger ESC 160 wont fit and im not that savy in Einstein something like that..lol I think i need a little more power because i feel the Kraton on the heavier side after i upgraded with all the M2C parts. Do you have a link for the 1730 motor you got? Thanks.
@@mora9426
That makes sense, the firma 160 is a bit large and will require some Mcgiver'ing to get her in. From what I understand the four mounting points jut out on all four corners of the unit. 3 of which have to be completely dremeled off. A combination of using 1 of the mounting points as well as quality (emphasis on quality) double sided mounting tape. The only real perk of getting the Firma 160, aside from the fact the people seem to really like the stability and power it offers, is that it stays in the spektrum family, so if your planning to use any of the smart technology, telemetry perks when having both ESC, receiver, battery, and a transmitter with upgraded abilities. If those things are not of too much interest to you, you might just consider getting the MAX 6. M2C's ESC plate has been designed to literally plug and play with pre drilled mounting holes and everything. So thats something to consider. As far as the motor I ordered.. I snagged mine off Ebay. I asked Rich duperbash which motor for the 6s was his favorite. He siad the 1730.
here is the link
www.ebay.com/itm/172708923510
@@EastTactics Nice.. i was watching his vid and i saw his setups then i notice you got same motor that's why i asked. I'm going also to downsize the tires to backflips lp , i think that's what he runs. not sure maybe the 6s?.. i notice that usually people on bigger tires get heating problems quick and less battery life.. i wanna gear up not down, lol. I'm running a 15T at the moment. I usually run in grass and dirt since i have a huge baseball/ football field next to my house and jump a small ramp.. nothing crazy yet on the jumping.. I have Smart tech and i also run 2 3S SMC 8000 mah 120C when i wanna go wild..haha.. The good thing also about the 160A is that i don't have to weld the IC5 batt connectors,, its ready to go too.
4sure… feel free to reach out if you need anything brother… happy to help
Servo flex im going to say
Where did you get the red rubber tool mat?
Arrma V4 V5 EXB Essentials - MAKE YOUR OWN PIT MAT
ruclips.net/video/jurXWNzWq0g/видео.html
29:09 and 20:27 why didnt your tire move much?
At 29:09 The tires are sitting down on the rug, which similar to grass fights against those tires turning. The point of this particular section of the video however is that despite being in a terrain like grass/or carpet That nearly prevents the tires from moving much at all. The servo is strong enough to still push the servo arm all the way 100% to its maximal reach, or what I call touching the butt stop. So the servo was strong enough to do that. Now the reason why the tires didn’t move much was because the servo saver twisted open, which you can’t see from the angle I’m filming. But that’s OK because that is what the servo saver is designed for. Allowing the full movement of the servo, despite the tires being sort of locked up by the terrain.
Imagine if I had my buddy come into the room and literally hold the tires to where they could not move at all, and then I twisted the steering, if the servo saver didn’t twist open it would be a really quick way to break your servo. So yeah you saw a little movement because the servo saver twisted open in that particular section of the video. Does that answer your question?
Anyway you know you’re getting 100% steering with your vehicle if despite the terrain locking up your tires your servo still is strong enough to reach its full endpoint.
Hence the name of the video.
@@EastTactics "if the servo saver didn’t twist open it would be a really quick way to break your servo". nah the servo just wouldnt turn. thats how my crawler is, no saver. it gets in a jam and if the car doesnt pivot around the tires is just doesnt move. the purpose of a servo saver is for high speed jolts. the servo wont destroy itself (any one capable of doing so has metal gears making it a non issue) but an impact will and these cars have lots of impacts.
Well yeah, it depends on the strength of the servo. When you start getting into these higher weight vehicles that weigh 15-20 pounds With 8+ volts pushing over 740 torque . The threshold of even metal gears can strip or wear fairly quickly if your servo saver isn’t working in scenarios like carpet and grass at a stand still. On a smaller rig, if your steering gets locked up completely on a rock or something like that then yeah the voltage going to the servo will simply just stop the servo no problem. But again those are on a smaller scale situation’s. Things are different with the bigger scale vehicles. However I do 100% agree with you that those jolts also play the same role irregardless of vehicle scale. And the servo saver is there for those scenarios as well.
But I will tell you with the amount of power I’m pushing toward my servo if there was no servo saver… sure maybe for the first few weeks the servo would stop itself but overtime it would strip those gears, metal or not.
Either way, it’s really beside the point. The point is that I recommend upgrading to a much more powerful servo that can maximize The full forward and back motion regardless of what your servo saver is set to. But the servo savers do actually come from the manufacture way too loose especially back in the V4 era, that’s why people put snap rings in it to tighten it up so that more power could be presented to your steering. After doing that though the stock strength of the servo was way too weak.
1730kv that's gonna be pretty sweet.
23:55 why use a shim to stiffen it up when you have the rubber dampers installed? why not just remove the rubber dampers and see where that gets you?
The rubber dampers are for vertical shock absorption. If anything the more use of rubber dampers increases looseness in side to side slop.
Therefore increasing the need of that metal shim.
Does that make sense.
I hope I’m understanding your question properly.
Great video. I just wanted to confirm that a V5 kraton will run the 760 at 7.4v without installing a BEC? Thanks!
The V5 will run the 760 MG servo at 7.4V. Yes. However it will push 680 ounces of torque. Which is what I’m pushing in the finale of the vid.
No need for a bec. 😎💪
@@EastTactics great, thanks! Got one ordered.
Fantastic… you’ll luv it!
@@EastTactics Just wanted to follow up and say I got the servo installed. Wow. This thing makes the blue amazon special look like a toy. Worth every penny!
That’s awesome! Yeah I was blown away by how amazing the servo is. Loving every second of it
I learned a lot
I upgrade my servo and used diff shims on the servo saver and it helped out a lot. I have a kraton 6s v5 and put bigger tires on it. And now I’m having major issues with my diff I shimmed the hell out of them and there still striping and the little pen that holds the out drive breaks too. Do you have any fixes I can do to my diff with out buying the crazy price EXB diff and out gear?i love the help with the steering thanks just seen too it looks like you have the same tires I have proline something
What size pinion are you running on your motor?
What fluids are you running in your diffs, rear, center, front.
What punch setting you running
Break down how you shimmed your diffs, did you shim both the insides as well as the outside?
What specific gears are stripping?
Answers to these can help me help you. :)
great vid, very interesting. Do you notice the EXB steering spring is different ? Ref #ARA340178 marked as Xtra Hard Did you try this one ?
Wow! 😯 I didn't know about that. You know Arrma though... always listening and updating parts. Maybe not the best at advertising them though... I think I might make a video on this... just to let people know. A) this would be needed in the v4. And that if they have an EXB, snap rings may not be needed. Of course I'll test to see if it really is stiff enough, or a 1 snap ring might still be recommended.
Does this spring only come stock on the EXB, or does it ship with the v5?
@@EastTactics Sure, it dont come with the V5, have one and same issue. Also, the Xhard spring is not painted but plated, not black like the V4 and V5 ones
regular V'4 and V5 spring is # AR340122, EXB XHard one is #ARA340178
I just now ordered the EXB version just to see how much different it really is. And if it does away with a need for snap rings. Thanks for the heads up on this
Great, cant wait to see this new episode. I guess the spring is also with the new outcast EXB roller, and at least on every 6s EXB rig.
I noticed you use the other Ackerman position, than stock. Any reason?
Mostly just experimental, by positioning the turnbuckles in the upward position, it increases the sharp/cut angle of the inner tire on the turn. Thus providing sharper slow speed turns as well as the initial portion of a high speed turn.
Being honest though, haven’t been able to really tell the difference.
@@EastTactics I'm probably the only autistic person who noticed lol. But yeah the difference isn't that much change in Ackerman considering tall floppy tires of a basher, not a agile buggy on a groomed track
@@brutallyaverage8293
Yes… I was impressed you caught that.
Won’t the metal “shim” on the servo mount transfer shock to the servo?
Yes to some degree, but you have to weigh the benefits of each factor. Side to side wobble is absolutely unacceptable. In my opinion. I could’ve put a rubber cushion around the servo to help tighten it but that would still lend to side to side wobble. In fact that’s what I did in my previous servo.
Now… that said, the piece of metal I put in isn’t so tight that it doesn’t allow for up and down movement which means that the shock absorption material underneath the servo is still in play.
Ok, question…will the stock K6s V5 ESC handle that high torque servo without browning out; with stick arms and turnbuckles? Or, would a external BEC still be needed to take the brunt?
Yes… The stock Spectrum ESC that comes with a V5 is perfectly capable to run with this servo. In fact it will run it at the 7.4 V which is 680 ounces of torque. So you’re good!
Regarding your front turnbuckles. They are fine as stock to, however if you’re looking to upgrade those here’s what I would suggest.
ruclips.net/video/FTyxuJ47pm8/видео.html
@@EastTactics sweet TY ET! Just for confirmation, this servo is 100% fully plug-n-play and safe to run without an external, added battery and/or BEC in a stock K6s V5 then?
Yup... just plug'r into your receiver and she's ready to go!
Are u still running the same servo? Has it lasted and you're happy?
Yes.. very happy
Recent Bash video I even mention it.
ruclips.net/video/uaf8UnCwg_A/видео.html
@@EastTactics thank you so much:) you're amazing, best on youtube!
Cyborg Nips for the WIN ! ! !
Lmao!!🤣🤣
@@EastTactics Man your detail and descriptions in your Kraton videos are killer. Heavy Metal RC launched me from his doodoo ramp over here to subscribe while I was watching his kraton steering video.
Awesome brother! Thanks for finding me. Always happy to help. 🔥👍🔥
I was looking into this servo and it looks really tall. Did you need to space it up a lot to keep it from hitting the chassis? It also looks like you put some kind of spacer on the linkage so its not at an angle to get to the servo saver.
It’s really not a whole lot taller than most servos. I think it’s roughly 43mm tall.
My Prior savox SW1210 sg sat about 39 mm tall.
It also might look like it sits a little taller because I put down two layers of Sorbothane cushioning on to the chassis first. And then I put the servo on top of that. So the servo isn’t floating, it’s supported by the padding connected to the chassis. I go above and beyond for shock absorption when it comes to my servo.
You’ll also notice as I’m pretty sure the video describes I put padding Sorbothane and a solid rectangular composite piece down first before the grommets themselves touchdown.
Perhaps because of my padding raising the servo up a bit you may notice a section in this video it talks about a special solid metal plate that I put on the front side of the servo to both get rid of that slop side to side movement you see, as well as supply horizontal strength to the system. All in all it’s been working amazing.
Yes I do put a spacer in on the servo saver arm to get the servo arm at Self level.
@@EastTactics thanks for the info. Does the servo need to be padded? I have a solid aluminum bashitrc mount and I figured the more solid it is the more precise the steering would be.
It is true the more solid the mount the more precise as well as the more power you can present to your steering system. That’s why I stress highly to get rid of side to side slop as that’s the kind of movement that you’re talking about if loose takes away from the steering. However up and down movement, specifically the up-and-down movement allowed from the shock absorption put directly underneath both the very bottom of the servo as well as the grommets, has nothing to do with the Takeaway of power to the steering system. However shock padding added in this area does in my opinion prevent damage received from massive chassis slap, which is the cause for a lot of broken servos out there.
@@EastTactics I did not realize that type of shock damaged servos.
It can, especially the kind when landing on concrete or extremely hard gravel with Really big air.
I have a whole playlist dedicated to shock mitigation if you wanna check it out.
ruclips.net/p/PL9UjUE_DygV8mQtUYiCRREgQvV8OR61Jn
Very detailed explanation!!! Greatly appreciated and I will be ordering a better servo!!! #Subbed 👏
Thx!!
Running jump competitions, if you want to get involved 👍
Is 3 degrees negative ok for front and rear??
ruclips.net/video/puMKzmdEPsQ/видео.html
smaller tires front steering better
You don’t need to replace the servo. I still run my stock servo I just added a few circlips. Now I can drive her on 2 wheels no problem. The stock servo is pretty decent. My revo is heavier then my kraton and I’ll I needed was 250oz. If you adjust your servo saver no need to spend that much money. I have the v5 idk if that’s why but I have no problem with that stock spektrum servo.
All good brother, I’ve added three snap ring clips to my servo savor. In fact that is the reason why I feel the upgraded servo with higher torque is necessary. The tighter you make your servo saver the more torque is needed for 100% steering. The stock servo will certainly get the job done however if you want to achieve 100% steering then I suggest you do the servo saver test. Grab your front tires and hold them fixed. Then turn your steering 100% and see if your servo Is strong enough to tweak your servo saver open all the way so that your arm completely but stops against the upper hinge pin notch. My guess is you may not of watched the whole video because you recommended using sir clips. However about 50% of this video is talking about those clips lol. It also goes over in Great detail The test I’m recommending you try to see if you’re not just getting good steering but 100% steering😎💪💪
the esc dont have a 7,4 bec ? you need change it with option esc
Depending on your ESC, it may or may not have the option to adjust a setting to allow it to output various settings. The BLX 85. Yes he does not have the option to output 7.4 V its maximum at 6 V.
However, I have installed an external BEC component into my rig, which does allow me to adjust this particular ESC to output, 7.4 V not through the ESC itself however, but through the BEC search my videos for how to install an external BEC.
@@EastTactics ap yep, i want search a external bec that allow me change 7,4 Max output to 8,4v for allow servo use his Max voltaje
I see other video about the coat of body with rinho and i buy an spray something similar its call raptor
Sorrry about my english im spanish
I LOVE your Channel
Good day, here is 9am
💯💯💯🍻
21:40 your servo mount is loose mate
Right, did you see how I remedied the issue later in the video?
@@EastTactics yeah thanks :-)
yeah, i noticed at 3:51 that before you do all the upgrades and extra stuff, try removing the rubber o-rings that connect the servo to the servo mount cause of all the initial movement at the base of the servo is going to have a larger negative effect than any upgrades down the line. looking like a fun rig when its all said and done.
What size were the snap rings that you used?
Snap ring kit (you need 9/16)
amzn.to/3bBDDM8
@@EastTactics thank you!!!
what size snap rings did you use?
9/16
@@EastTactics do you know what that is in mm?