Great video, thanks! I would love to see a video about setting ride height, shock preload and toe. It would also be good to show common handling problems and the adjustments that you should try to solve them.
I really appreciated this video, I already had the shocks, swaybar,caster/camber down but up till now hadn't understood or used the roll center or ackerman adjustments.Understanding all these makes rc's even more fun.Thx for sharing your racing knowledge.
One clarification about shock location, though. People often say that laying the shock down softens the suspension. While this is true, it only applies to changing the mounting location on the *shock tower*. When laying the shock down on the *suspension arm*, the opposite is true - the suspension gets stiffer because the leverage of the spring on the arms increases as the arm moves upwards. To make it easier to remember, any time you move the shock mounting location inwards, on the tower or the arm, the suspension will be softer.
Yes, very good point. I actually hesitated when I was talking about the shock location on the arm for that reason. Angle affects progressive vs. linear and position (in or out) affects overall softness/stiffness.
Luigi Bellantoni I have an entire video just on shock location, but didn’t want to spend 10min just on one topic 😀 ruclips.net/video/leIwNpo1deU/видео.html
Ok, one thing about roll center. Always think of roll centre as applying to the inner ball stud location. If you raise the inner ball stud, you raise/increase the traction (lower roll center) and, similarly, if you lower the inner ball stud, you lower/decrease the traction (higher roll center). Therefore, the opposite is true when adjusting the outer ball stud (at the hub) - if you raise this ball stud you decrease traction (you are effectively lowering the inner ball stud) and if you lower the outer ball stud, you increase traction (you are effectively raising the inner ball stud). Again, just trying to clarify, no offense intended to Razor RC 👍
I also felt like Razor may have been backwards when he described roll center. I think of it as it's easier to hold a baseball bat in a vertical position the higher up you hold it. Easier to counter the effects of gravity, less roll over, with a higher mount position (inside ball). Higher mount position (inside ball) = less body roll, less traction, less traction roll, and also more weight transfer to the inside wheel. In other words when talking about the rear end, less body roll = more "drifting" = less traction.
absolutely learned a lot!!! thank you. ive always wondered but could never find anyone to explain what all the different locations of shocks, etc. were and how it effects driving
Interesting. Must be something in the setup, because I dont really hear of anyone else complaining about this. However, that is exactly what happened when I put stupid power in my Tamiya TT-02. Hit WOT and it would just spin out. I always assumed it was diffing out left-right.
The sway bars help the car stay flat instead of dipping side to side when cornering. Thats why its called a "sway" bar (or more correctly an anti-sway bar). The stiffer the sway bar the more level the cornering as the spring resists any movement from the suspension that is not equal on both sides. This may just be another way to say what you said here but I was not able to understand that from the words used.
@@cripmeezy Obviously anti-roll bars resist roll. What I did is go one step further and explain WHY the car stays "flatter" -- it's because the two arms are tied together (more). Because they're tied together, the inner wheel cannot lift as easily, and both springs are resisting compression of the shocks instead of just one. Then I explained how that effects driving. What does "more flat" do? -- it results in less traction on that end which will be more understeer on the front end because the car is not rolling as much, and more oversteer on the rear end as it is not able to roll as much.
Another RUclips mentioned that he replaced the shock end cap 3 times before he realized there was a droop adjustment and made it so the shock couldn't bottom out
I changed the plastic steering knuckles to aluminum on my notorious and get better steering, when u screw the cap back on into the plastic one it can get massed up and mess with ya steering
I believe that outer hole on the a arms is actually to allow for those beefy arms to be compatible with the V4 shock tower. So if version four owners want to upgrade to those arms they could. They would have to pick up other things though to make it all work out. For instance they would have to switch from the V4 swaybar to the V5 sway bar
My droop was set a bit low. Didn’t check before running. Both rear shocks destroyed first run. No big jumps just fast over uneven ground. Adjusted band hasnt happened again. I’ve got extras not though just in case.
Excellent video, should travel be equal front to back ? Should A arms be parallel with the chassis or is higher ride height ok for a kraton. ? Ride height is achieved with spring preload? Thx for the video !
I have a 4s kraton 110 2400kv Motor 120 ADS SERVO. And the Rest that came with the 4S 2020 kraton its stocked though 13 Tooth pinion gear mah5000 14.8 battery 50c battery mah5000 14 .8 great Truck Overall but slipper Clutch keeps Coming loose so i put loctite blue medium strength on my slipper Clutch snd just waiting for a part for my input GEAR that melted very hard to see THE Owner of hobby shop spotted it thank god but he has to order it should be there by Next week hopefully WITH All this Covid who knows but Iam getting steel GEARS put in the spring maybe shim THE GEARS to Anyways very inspiring video thank you for showing it 👍
I happen to have a crooked left wheel and don’t know how to straighten it out, I don’t know if the servo could be failing but when I try to go straight, on it’s own it starts turning right, even after numerous calibrations
LOOKING TO BUY A NEW 6s EXB I SPOKE TO HORIZON WAS ADVISED THAT ALL THE NEW SHIPMENTS HAVE BEEN UPDATED REGARDING SHIMS TO REARS....BUT THERES NO WAY OF IDENTIFYING THE NEW UPDATED VERSIONS WHICH IS BAD BEC NOBODY WANTS TO SPEND MONEY ON A CAR THATS NEEDS REPAIRS BEFORE U DRIVE IT.....ANY RELIABLE PLACES U GUYS RECOMMEND THAT HAVE UPDATED NEW INVENTORY ON EXBs
I want to setup my kraton 6s v5 for street bashing. Do I just lower the ride height thru the droop screws and removing preload on shocks? Or should I adjust shock position as well? I want to do some on-road speed bashes with it. Running it with a 17t and slightly smaller 5inch tall street wheels :)
Hi, I'm a newbie, I just bought my exb and had my first bad jump and dis-aligned the rear shock tower, and when I disassembled it to fix there's a crack a threaded, my question is how to avoid that and is there any parts that more durable, I think it's a gear box case
Hi Razor RC, I have bought some kraton 6s shocks to go on my 3s granite. It looks like the springs rub a lot on the shock body and there is a small play side to side from the shock shaft in the shock body. Do you know if I can sort these issue out at all? Appreciate any ideas in advance
Just got my EXB and on my first time running it the front left dog bone kept popping out! 🤷🏽♂️ I have the Kraton 6s BLX and that never happened to me. It happens occasionally on my outcast 6s. Do you know of a fix for that?? I was was kinda bummed it happened on a brand new Kraton EXB. Thanks
🤦🏽sway bars literally doing exactly what this description say they are. You also can achieve stiffness I just rotating the screw on the shocks. Changing the shock location does change that behavior but also changes the geometry. If the shocks are changed from their original location Camber and toe we'll have to be adjusted as well. To achieve a stiffer or softer ride you can do so by just loosening or tightening the screw that is on the shock or changing the shock fluid
Good video but completely wrong on the sway bar info. A smaller sway bar makes your front kinda loose and thicker makes it stiffer and what the sway bar does is when the one tire comes up in the corner it pushes the other tire into the turn
I recommend reading this: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-roll_bar . A thicker front sway bar will tend to make the front understeer, not generate traction. The loaded outside wheel actually causes the inside wheel to not to lift as much, not the other way around.
Great video, thanks! I would love to see a video about setting ride height, shock preload and toe. It would also be good to show common handling problems and the adjustments that you should try to solve them.
Dude you are the king of RC videos from a mechanical perspective. I probably owe you a beer.
This has to be one of the most educational video for this exb model yet... 🤜🤛
I really appreciated this video, I already had the shocks, swaybar,caster/camber down but up till now hadn't understood or used the roll center or ackerman adjustments.Understanding all these makes rc's even more fun.Thx for sharing your racing knowledge.
One clarification about shock location, though. People often say that laying the shock down softens the suspension. While this is true, it only applies to changing the mounting location on the *shock tower*. When laying the shock down on the *suspension arm*, the opposite is true - the suspension gets stiffer because the leverage of the spring on the arms increases as the arm moves upwards. To make it easier to remember, any time you move the shock mounting location inwards, on the tower or the arm, the suspension will be softer.
Yes, very good point. I actually hesitated when I was talking about the shock location on the arm for that reason. Angle affects progressive vs. linear and position (in or out) affects overall softness/stiffness.
@@RazorRC Sorry, not trying to be a jerk 😁, it's just one of those points that sometimes needs clarification (like my other comment about roll center)
@@jerryvolpini7987 not at all! thanks for providing additional explanation!
Great info.. was confused by the video at first...this make more sense 👍
Luigi Bellantoni I have an entire video just on shock location, but didn’t want to spend 10min just on one topic 😀 ruclips.net/video/leIwNpo1deU/видео.html
Ok, one thing about roll center. Always think of roll centre as applying to the inner ball stud location. If you raise the inner ball stud, you raise/increase the traction (lower roll center) and, similarly, if you lower the inner ball stud, you lower/decrease the traction (higher roll center).
Therefore, the opposite is true when adjusting the outer ball stud (at the hub) - if you raise this ball stud you decrease traction (you are effectively lowering the inner ball stud) and if you lower the outer ball stud, you increase traction (you are effectively raising the inner ball stud). Again, just trying to clarify, no offense intended to Razor RC 👍
I also felt like Razor may have been backwards when he described roll center. I think of it as it's easier to hold a baseball bat in a vertical position the higher up you hold it. Easier to counter the effects of gravity, less roll over, with a higher mount position (inside ball). Higher mount position (inside ball) = less body roll, less traction, less traction roll, and also more weight transfer to the inside wheel. In other words when talking about the rear end, less body roll = more "drifting" = less traction.
You are the man when it comes to explaining race tuning . Thanks!!
Thank you for the acromin explanation!!!! You're the only person that explains it
absolutely learned a lot!!! thank you. ive always wondered but could never find anyone to explain what all the different locations of shocks, etc. were and how it effects driving
This is why the kraton is my favorite basher. So much to tune.
Curious if you still have Kraton and what diff weights you ever went to?
Such an in depth look and description. I just got one of these, and your vid is top shelf! thank you!
Great video, people really need to understand these adjustments so they get the most out of their vehicle! 👍
I didn’t know Durango had anything to do with Arrma. Thanks for always dropping some good info.
Well I learned a lot from this video for sure , not sure I'm gonna mess with any of it on my kraton, but I deff understand it better
Fantastic Video, its great to see CORRECT information delivered in an easy to understand way.
Much appreciated!
At 3:00 the It looks like an Arrma Transformer..lol I just love this design by Arrma. The chassis looks like its staring at you!
* Stiffering the sway bars will reduce the roll in turns...
Less tilt while cornering...
Interesting.
Must be something in the setup, because I dont really hear of anyone else complaining about this.
However, that is exactly what happened when I put stupid power in my Tamiya TT-02. Hit WOT and it would just spin out.
I always assumed it was diffing out left-right.
The sway bars help the car stay flat instead of dipping side to side when cornering. Thats why its called a "sway" bar (or more correctly an anti-sway bar). The stiffer the sway bar the more level the cornering as the spring resists any movement from the suspension that is not equal on both sides. This may just be another way to say what you said here but I was not able to understand that from the words used.
😂 exactly
I'm not sure if this guy actually this guy actually understand physics
@@cripmeezy Obviously anti-roll bars resist roll. What I did is go one step further and explain WHY the car stays "flatter" -- it's because the two arms are tied together (more). Because they're tied together, the inner wheel cannot lift as easily, and both springs are resisting compression of the shocks instead of just one. Then I explained how that effects driving. What does "more flat" do? -- it results in less traction on that end which will be more understeer on the front end because the car is not rolling as much, and more oversteer on the rear end as it is not able to roll as much.
I think running shocks on the outer hole on the arm helps with better stability also. More support further out on the arm.
Another RUclips mentioned that he replaced the shock end cap 3 times before he realized there was a droop adjustment and made it so the shock couldn't bottom out
Thanks for the excellent info and presentation, also on the diff shimming-video for the Kraton. (Which I am currently building)
Dude, you sound a lot like “RJ the bike guy”! Both of you explain things awesome! Great video !
Can’t wait to get mine! Hobbywing 2200Kv
This video has been a complete game changer for me and my Arrmy! Thank you sooo much for making this video. Excellent!
I changed the plastic steering knuckles to aluminum on my notorious and get better steering, when u screw the cap back on into the plastic one it can get massed up and mess with ya steering
I believe that outer hole on the a arms is actually to allow for those beefy arms to be compatible with the V4 shock tower. So if version four owners want to upgrade to those arms they could. They would have to pick up other things though to make it all work out. For instance they would have to switch from the V4 swaybar to the V5 sway bar
I believe you are right! Backwards compatability.
Haha I use the same green yoga block for several different purposes.
Great video thanks for sharing!
Thanks man I forgot about that and couldn’t figure it out, thanks
My droop was set a bit low.
Didn’t check before running. Both rear shocks destroyed first run. No big jumps just fast over uneven ground.
Adjusted band hasnt happened again. I’ve got extras not though just in case.
Excellent video, should travel be equal front to back ? Should A arms be parallel with the chassis or is higher ride height ok for a kraton. ? Ride height is achieved with spring preload? Thx for the video !
Thanks for posting this!! Very informative video!! 😊
Very good! Thanks for sharing your deep knowledge about setting up a rig. This can help a lot, thanks for sharing! 😘😘
You are so welcome
Hi, thank u for this informativ Video.
May i ask : what Front bumper did u Install?
Thx ;-)
That's a great little tutorial and easy to understand. Thank you for explaining
This is a very nice video about tuning. Thanks
Thanks for the explanation sir. Great educational video.
I have a 4s kraton 110 2400kv Motor 120 ADS SERVO. And the Rest that came with the 4S 2020 kraton its stocked though 13 Tooth pinion gear mah5000 14.8 battery 50c battery mah5000 14 .8 great Truck Overall but slipper Clutch keeps Coming loose so i put loctite blue medium strength on my slipper Clutch snd just waiting for a part for my input GEAR that melted very hard to see THE Owner of hobby shop spotted it thank god but he has to order it should be there by Next week hopefully WITH All this Covid who knows but Iam getting steel GEARS put in the spring maybe shim THE GEARS to Anyways very inspiring video thank you for showing it 👍
The other battery is a 100C All. SPETRUM 2100 smart Charger Really good built system Except for some very minor loose ,g
Ends i mean
I want to put a 15 Tooth pinion in and take THE 13 Tooth out of my 4s kraton is it safe to do with a 2400kv Motor or will it overheat?
Thank you for this vid!! Awesome information.
Thanks for doing this video!
I happen to have a crooked left wheel and don’t know how to straighten it out, I don’t know if the servo could be failing but when I try to go straight, on it’s own it starts turning right, even after numerous calibrations
Anybody else sees a robotic 3CPO style face with elf ears on the car? The top of the shock towers being it’s eyes 😆
I always wondered what the extra holes in the steering plate did.
Absolutely beautiful rig. Right up my alley. I am so tempted to snag one of these!
Do it lol get yourself a new toy you deserve it
Extremely informative. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Can you adjust the toe? I dont think I heard you mention it.
Learn so much my head hurts
🤣
LOOKING TO BUY A NEW 6s EXB I SPOKE TO HORIZON WAS ADVISED THAT ALL THE NEW SHIPMENTS HAVE BEEN UPDATED REGARDING SHIMS TO REARS....BUT THERES NO WAY OF IDENTIFYING THE NEW UPDATED VERSIONS WHICH IS BAD BEC NOBODY WANTS TO SPEND MONEY ON A CAR THATS NEEDS REPAIRS BEFORE U DRIVE IT.....ANY RELIABLE PLACES U GUYS RECOMMEND THAT HAVE UPDATED NEW INVENTORY ON EXBs
Great info explained in a very relatable way. Thanks for sharing ✊
How come your mud flaps are tucked in?
Great info and well done thanks
I have a Question My DriveShaft Keeps Popping Out Out the Cup in the Front Right Side How Would I Go About Fixing
Very new to this what does EXB stand for?
I want to setup my kraton 6s v5 for street bashing. Do I just lower the ride height thru the droop screws and removing preload on shocks? Or should I adjust shock position as well? I want to do some on-road speed bashes with it. Running it with a 17t and slightly smaller 5inch tall street wheels :)
Hi, I'm a newbie, I just bought my exb and had my first bad jump and dis-aligned the rear shock tower, and when I disassembled it to fix there's a crack a threaded, my question is how to avoid that and is there any parts that more durable, I think it's a gear box case
Awesome Intel inside Razor🤔 my Q is can we use the theory here to apply to another model say talion or typhon 6s tho🏁😎 thank you either way Razor,
thanks! yes, it will apply to all RC cars!
How much suspension travel does the kraton 6s have? I can’t find that advertised anywhere.
Hi Razor RC,
I have bought some kraton 6s shocks to go on my 3s granite. It looks like the springs rub a lot on the shock body and there is a small play side to side from the shock shaft in the shock body. Do you know if I can sort these issue out at all? Appreciate any ideas in advance
Very helpful video thank you
Perfect video💯💯
Thank you
Sweet! Love the explanation 👍👍
GREAT INFO RAZOR. 👍 THANKS BRO... 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Very informative video , and awesome unit.... TFS!
Does the motor spin CW or CCW? I’m installing a new power plant and idk if they judge it looking at the motor or from the motor perspective
CCW If anyone else wonders
Learned a lot...ty vm
Where to get the Camber Clips?
Excellent!
Keep up the good vids
Can that front bumper fit on notorious 6s v5 blx ?
great video and explanation
Nice thanks help so much
Just got my EXB and on my first time running it the front left dog bone kept popping out! 🤷🏽♂️ I have the Kraton 6s BLX and that never happened to me. It happens occasionally on my outcast 6s. Do you know of a fix for that?? I was was kinda bummed it happened on a brand new Kraton EXB. Thanks
I've got the exb and haven't had that happen
@@stefandwoodham I don't have an exb and haven't had that happen.
Hope that helps!
@@stevenkelby2169 lol
My v4 done that I had to take shim out of hub
Nice rig brother!! Is it the Hobby Wing MAX6 ESC w/ a V3 Sensorless Brushless (1650kV) motor?
Very detailed 👌🏻subbed
🤦🏽sway bars literally doing exactly what this description say they are. You also can achieve stiffness I just rotating the screw on the shocks. Changing the shock location does change that behavior but also changes the geometry. If the shocks are changed from their original location Camber and toe we'll have to be adjusted as well.
To achieve a stiffer or softer ride you can do so by just loosening or tightening the screw that is on the shock or changing the shock fluid
Is the bearings of these exb same as the v4 ?
Takk!
I can not believe you didn't mention anything about toe or spring pre load adjustment. Unbelievable!
OMG!
Where would I be without you?
Are there no toe block inserts?
Nope
👌👍
The dislikes are traxxas fan boys
👍👀🇭🇷
Good video but completely wrong on the sway bar info. A smaller sway bar makes your front kinda loose and thicker makes it stiffer and what the sway bar does is when the one tire comes up in the corner it pushes the other tire into the turn
I recommend reading this: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-roll_bar . A thicker front sway bar will tend to make the front understeer, not generate traction. The loaded outside wheel actually causes the inside wheel to not to lift as much, not the other way around.
Please help me the owner of shop pulled the battery out of the bottom loop I cannot get it back in it seems impossible.
where do you get those clips for adjusting camber? is it a arrma part?
Great informative Vid 👌