You say, "mint!" I haven't heard anyone use that word in place of "great" since the 90s. Do you have a young sounding voice? Or did you grow up in the decade of decadence too? Either way, love the help. This video is mint!
I'm rebuilding a Arrma 3s diff right now and had some questions. So I remembered how good you do with repair videos I came straight to your channel. Thanks PhillyB_RC ... You have been extremely helpful in my learning process. 👍👍
Man I am loving all the instructional videos you do! I’m a mechanical guy, but if I can find a video that saves me some time figuring it out on my own it’s pretty awesome! Thanks for doing it!
This is a great instructional video. Servicing diffs in the 3S line of Arrmas is pretty easy. You can tell when you open the diff how low the diff fluid is. This is a common problem with ALL Arrma diffs. They always come low. It's worth checking them out of the box along with the grease around the crown and input. One more note for anyone doing this for the first time. Don't over tighten the screws for the yoke. It can bind the diff. Check that it's not bound before you put it all back together.
I just picked up a basket case big rock with a blown diff... it will be my first time working on an Arrma, this is video gold! Thanks a bunch! (snapshot camera sound could be leveled down to match the other audio)
Back again visiting is my 4s was going great but now I'm at a complete loss I have tried as much as my knowledge so when I throttle all that does make a noise like the clutch is slipping except a bit more squeaky / hire pitch have open front centre and rear diff they all seem to be sweet and tight any ideas or any response whatsoever would be massively appreciated😊 🔩 keep up the excellent Work man no mucking around simply put and didn't notice before but extremely well-spoken and well-worded🙏✌️
@@dnbarracus Thanks for the compliment. Means alot. Well, just gonna throw out a couple things to look at. Pinion gear isn t touching spur gear (motor moved). I was having a problem with the clutch (center diff in your case) was breaking the back side of the assembly, this would be going to the input side of your rear diff. It was broken so no power delivery. Do you have facebook? Send me a good video through messenger and i ll try to help.
Haha. Me too, unfortunately my son wanted his table back! I have a new area in the basement, you llsee it if you check out something more recent. Thank you!
Just started watching the channel. Great instructional videos!! I like how you take your time and show exactly what you are doing step by step. Very helpful!!
Thanks heaps Man, followed along with your video pausing to catch most of the time... Got it done in a couple of hours and about 8 beers... Cheers from South Australia. JH.
Oh man great job step by step I been looking for days for this. Too late broke two bearings and and new input gear!! This is the best on RUclips thank you so much. Mine is very rough may take apart but I will see??
Very good video. Helped me install a metal diff in my Granite. I do wish you showed how to access the front diff. I'm a newbie, so I'm afraid of just randomly unscrewing things in the front where the steering and servo are. Thanks for showing the hex driver used to get the driveshafts off, i had to buy one special, but it went fine.
This was helpful man, thanks for sharing. I especially liked where you called out the diff case seal - I used totally new case for mine and missed transferring it over, and didnt buy it separately. When I bolted the case together at first I could see the case end was deforming slightly, bottoming out on the shafts too hard. Knew I was missing something so I watched this and saw the seal - realised I'd missed it and problem solved. Also the grease, how much to use? A metric F-ton, excellent :)
I'm pretty handy, so when I need a video to help I usually just need a few minutes of the video to help get past where I'm stuck. This video is amazing! I love the sped up video with the narration over top. I got the exact info I needed fast. Thanks!!! I do have a quick question, is the grease and oil plastic safe, or is the plastic oil safe?
I understnd the the grease and oil are plastic safe...thats what I ve read, provided that was a good source. Thanx for watching the video and thanx for the compliment!
Awesome how to vid bro, well detailed!! 😎 👍 👊 🍻 I just recently picked up my first 3S line car from Arrma, the Infraction mega 4x4, $150 summer sale. It's a whole different animal from the 6S line-up that I'm used to working on. I have been meaning to get into the diffs so I can make remove any roll resistance but been putting it off lol. I did modify the gearbox to use mod1 gears & remove the clutch system. I got that puppy doing 85mph back to back on 4S with cool temps, no motor fan or heatsink, hobbywing 2200kv ezrun motor & castle MMX 6S esc. These 3S-4S line-up cars have serious potential lol. Just geared up & put GRP tires on it, hopefully it will hit mid 90s next. Awesome work bud, Keep'm Fast!! 😎👍 👊 🍻
@@phillybrc lol, thanks,Absolutely!! real reason I been putting off doing the diffs on this infraction mega was cuz they looked buried & was too lazy to get into it 😂. I been too busy getting the last videos in for my channel before peak winter, I do speedruns. My goal this season was 140, I hit 141 on 6S with my limitless GT. I will definitely check out your vids, always searching for helpful tips. Keep'm Fast Bro! 😎 👍 👊 🍻
Just found your channel. Excellent video. Just had mine apart yesterday then this video popped up today. I wish I had seen it before I did the job!! Thank you
Great video, well made and easy to follow. Nice that you sped up the actual working portion then narrated over the top. Subbed for more great RC content.
Yea I was actually wondering how do u or what do u use to edit it like that. I tried putting text on my video but couldn't figure out how to put in at the specific time I wanted at?
Thanks again for this video! I just spent an hour following along with you. Don't know if I coulda done it without ya! Great contribution to RUclips and Arrma communities. Much appreciated. It's b/c of this video that I subscribed.
1:00 a small tip for the future, leave a very small amount of grease on that sliding red piece and the motor assembly sliding things as the next time will be 1000x times easier to remove. I still remember the hassle of the first time I had to take that out, now it slides just fine :)
Thanks for the tip, I absolutely hate removing that piece. I unwisely tried to prise it out using the motor as leverage and bent the motor mount in doing so. PITA that thing and every how-to makes it look like it comes out so easy and I'm there like COMEONNNNNNNNNE
@@timmurrayy I remember the first time I tried, it was painful... Now a little pull and comes off, same goes for the motor mount and all those sliding things
i have more arrma typhon parts still sealed in bags than ill ever use. ive had mine for 5yrs or so, and the thing still runs great. i took care of it, i notice the caber & toe adjustment threaded rods are showing signs of some minor rust, and the end hex screws that are on the ends of the wheel axles are absolutely stuck in place. its not threadlock, because ive taken them off in the past, im guessing its rust. still dont know how ill get them off. aside from that, those cars were pretty durable. the screws break though. i use marine lubricant in my diffs, and on mesh gears. in diffs its great because it is water repellant, its a little more viscous than lighter grease, but not so much that it causes issues
Great informative video there buddy , just picked up the Vorteks Boost and as with any RC car I always like to remove any factory diff oil and make sure grease is applied . Was looking for a video that shows me how to do this and stumbled across your channel 👍. Thanks once again .
@@phillybrc It was a brand new diff too. the spiders could fall into a way that meant that all four would touch the outdrive. which would smash the teeth off the outdrive. just one small washer stopped it.
@@timmurrayy You can hear the gears rattling if you assemble it with no silicon oil when they need shimming for slop. Nothing I know of you can do about lash. I had multiple failures of internal diff outdrives from the spiders getting to loose and being able to slip up and down the shaft that holds them smashing them into the outdrives.
Interesting. I havn t anybody have this problem. I will say the rear diffs of my 2 cars fell very different from one another. One smoother than the other. I put a 3mm shim between the yokes to avoid over-tightening.
What's Happening Captain Hopefully All's Well I'm upgrading myself to 3s it was beginning to get nerve wrecking but Thanks 😊 Now I can Drive Again!! #arrmaTRUCKZ
On my granite diffs I put a little washer in between the yoke through the 2 screws And when I tighten the screws down it doesn't rub the yoke no more.it spins its ass off freely. I would show you a picture but cant on RUclips. Great video by the way
Love the content, are you ever gunna go over your tools, spare parts, that cool block thing.. I really enjoy watching your vids :D I noticed on my v3 Senton 3S BLX they put a drop of epoxy on the two motor mount screws, the clutch screw, the wheel knuckle, and on the diff left/right end parts. I removed that stuff.. and replaced with vibratight blue gel. I also had some issues with getting bearings to come off.. I found that using a thin clearance wrench and softly banging on it, made bearings come loose without breaking anything.
Raiden, thanks very much. I could go over my tools I suppose lol. I find in my earlier videos, my retention rate goes down when I show tools. I will add a link to the hand-tool set I use. Also, that “block thing” is my wife’s yoga block from the “Dollar Mart”! It works great and is cheap. I use blue Loc-tite on all metal-to-metal except I use “red” on pinikn gears. I appreciate all comments!
This video helped me a lot, thanks! My question, I have ordered 20k oil for the gears, can I use my copper grease to grease up the diff etc or is that a no go? I don't want to spend money on these tiny tubs of grease if possible
I m not familiar with copper grease, using a marine style grease that doesn t break down when it gets wet is what you should go with. I use Red’nTacky, it s “waterproof”. Thanx
Man thanks for this video! Super helpful and informative. I was wondering if you consider worth to change differentials to metal once the plastic ones begin to wear out. Or should I stay on plastic stock ones? Thank you very much for your answer. I’m subscribing right now! 😊
I really appreciate the SUB! Honestly, although I eventually went to metal, I stayed plastic for a long time simply because it was cheaper and forced me to learn to drive better and be mindful of breakages, especially if you are running with kids or inexperiencedl. Im still plastic spur gear however. Thanx for watchin. Let me know if there are videos you d like to see.
@@phillybrc man thanks a lot for your reply:D I think you’re absolutely right, I better start improving my skills before thinking about new parts I don’t even need yet. And as a beginner well almost everything on your channel is new to me. Maybe it’ll be good a video on how to properly bash an rc? I mean what you should prepare before session, what to do during the session and what parts check or repair after bashing. Again thank you for your answer.
Thanks for the video it is very helpful. the metal upgrade is $100 and it says it will bring it up to 4s specs I upgraded my Typhon to 4s is that to much for plastic diff?also you mentioned a shim what is that? did you use a metal washer?
Thanks for watchin. Well, depends on your driving style and the surfaces you run your RC really. For the most part, you may be asking alot of the RC to run 4s in it. the metal diff would be a solid upgrade. Make sure your slipper clutch isn't overtightened, get off the throttle when landing jumps(espicailly high-traction surfaces like grass). Also, consider lowering your punch setting. The biggest one is throttle control, only stab throttle in loose conditions, where tires can break free. The shim is a thin washer essentially, I usually put mine on the large crown gear side. THe diffs are expensive, possibly consider putting metal yokes on stock diff. i hear this works well since it reduces flex, hope this helps.
Great video, do you have for changing the front, also. I noticed that you had made a hole under the center diff in the body? Why was this done? Thanks, Rick
Front is pretty much the same. The hole is to allow dirt to escape the motor module. When dirt can escape, it wont ruin or strip your spur gear. It works awesome!
Budget my friend. I couldn t afford the metal setup, plastic parts are cheaper. I also tried to use it as a tool to try to get better at driving….my son also
@@drewp9112 Thanx. I have since gone metal in 2 of my 3s Arrmas, no complaints. 1 is an AArrma setup and one is the helical Hot Racing. Both run great. I have yet to go to metal spur though. Metal spur will send the energy to the diffs and damage, meanwhile the plastic spur is cheap and easy to replace, It's that red motor plate that is the biggest problem in my opinion, once that is bent ,spur gets shredded.thank you
I just got some Lucas Red N tacky, I've never done a diff swap, but if you could guess, how long would it last do you think on the diffs before I can clean and add some more? Maintenance question obviously here but yeah, kinda need your opinion
I've read somewhere that Red N Tacky can degrade plastics over time, have you experienced any problems with it? I was looking for some good grease to use and got this lmao
Yes, I ve read a couple different things...but ultimately was looking for a type of marine grease. It s all i could find at the time. I m not worried about it. Thanx!
I've just done this with a new diff case and input gear, boy is it stiff...followed this video and made sure it's right according to the diagram in the manual. So I am wondering.....is this common and does it just need to wear in?
Oh really? I thought it needed to work in also, but it doesn t seem to improve. I had an interesting suggestion that I want to try myself…put a small 3mm flat washer where the yokes unite. Just to create a little space…make sense?
@@phillybrc That does make sense.....I backed the yoke screws out and it loosened up, I was thinking some kind of spacer too! Or perhaps just leave then slightly loose and tighten them after a few runs when the gears have worn a bit? Spacer is probably best.
That s a fair question. First off, I’ m cheap! Lol. Secondly, parts are hard to come by right now. My LHS didn t have one in stock. Thirdly, I feel stock gears applies to more people, therefore making this video attractive to more people. I may do it in the future though. Thanx for watchin !!
Sorry I’m confused between the versions of diffs and input gears with 37 and 49 teeth for differentials and 13 and 17 teeth for inputs. Will any of this fit the granite 1/10 3S BLX? And what are the main differences in performance and durability? Thanks
Hey man. Keep in mind the parts I use in this video are for the BLX brushless version. The other ones are for the brushed motor, slower versions. They have a different “pitch” of gears so they require more teet to achieve desired performance. Thanx for stoppin’ by.
Great. Thanx for watching. Many more videos to come. I got the diff oil from my local hobbyshop. I believe you can get it from Amazon or something like that also. 🤝
@@phillybrc sorry, i did end up hearing that in the video. That stock was 10,000cst but you got 20,000 from your local hobby shop because that’s all they had. Sorry to waste your time with the redundant question you already answered in the video. I should have deleted that question.
@@phillybrc you got yourself a new subscriber! Keep up the good work. Your video is literally the only how to video on this subject. Others show how THEY do it but not instructional for the viewer to do it themselves. Good lighting and good audio on your video. Love it
Really nice video. Good quality 👍🏻. I just have to do the same with my granite but after that I screw the York’s it’s doesn’t turn smoothly. When you do yours is he turn perfectly smooth before you run it?
Not really smooth, alot of guys have the same issue. It seems the top of my input gear rubs on the main gear housing. Mine s running great thus far so i m goin with it. Make sure your bearing in out-drive gears are good
Every things is good except that it’s not turning smooth. But I.´m gonna try it like that I guess. In the worst case I’m gonna have to buy a new input and new diff case. Ok thanks and keep making nice video
Just thought if something. Do you have the gasket in? Cuz if you dont , it tightens the parts inside. Even so, back the screws off 1/4 turn...it maybmake a difference without causing a leak
Hey thanx alot! Yes, often times a thicker weight is added to the front compared to the rear. Ultimately I feel it’s a matter of opinion. I really like how my Granite handles with stock fluids and i enjoy the ballooning for bashing and air control. Nonetheless, the 20000 feels great and that was all my local hobby shop had in stock...without going to 500000k fluid. Thanx for watching and feel free to comment.
Hi im having trouble with removing the last bearing on input gear i already broke 2 bearings aswell. You mentioned that putting it on freezer could help, but it did not for me. How long should it be there to loosen it up?
have had issues with my differential not wanting to move freely when i tighten down the screws in the yoke. I know it is not a wear issue the truck is fairly new. Have not found anything online for a solution so I am waiting on back order for hot racing differential and yoke. Please let me know if you have any tips for these diffs and their yokes.
That s too bad. All i can think of is ensure screws aren t over-tightened and tightened evenly. make sure you have gasket on the diff cap, this will reduce clearance if missing. Let me know if this helps. Good luck
Mine definitely doesn’t spin freely like yours not even close. I noticed you put the second bearing on without even a socket and hammering it in?? Mine both had to be hammered to hell.. I don’t know? If the first bearing goes to the end or not?? Mine is Arrma Granite blx V3??
Ya, i didn’t have to use a socket on the second bearing on the input shaft. I bottom the first one out though. I now add a little 3mm Washer on the screws between the yoke halves. The allows for less squeezie f that makes sense.
Thanx alot. I now run 20k rear and 50k front in my granite and typhon, been doing that for a while and no complaints! If the the pry tool link isn t in the description, i will add it now! It s a life-saver and rely on it!
@@phillybrc lol I know man I saw that tool and instantly have to have it! Well I actually have 60k extra I don’t have 50. Think that’ll be much diff.? Shouldn’t be
what grease is the red grease you put ? Is it necessary ? I don`t have it. Does normal grease work too ? Such as used for bearings for bikes or engines and such. I have a whole jar of it.
Grease is necessary. If you don t have the Red and Tacky that I m using, I recommend a marine grease. Regular white lithium grease is not substantial. Thanx Martin
Hi friend, I'm from Brazil and I have some questions. I would be very happy if you would help me! I have already discovered that it is necessary to apply grease to the outer gears of the differentials, but I really wanted to know if I should also grease the gears of the engine. Example: 6448 parts: Spur gear, 8985: Input gear transmission, both from Traxxas Maxx. Another question is that the center differential gear comes into contact with a motor gear, should I grease it too? Part 8988. Inside Driveshaft 8949, do I also need to apply grease?
What I do in the video is exactly what i do with my own RC’s. I do not grease my pinion, spur or outdrive gears, they stay dry. I havn t seen anybody grease those before. Hope this helps.
@@phillybrc The best response I got was from John Robinson RC. He said that in general, the rule is to apply grease when the gears in contact are both metal and if they are inside closed cups. In my case of the Traxxas Maxx design the outer gear of the center differential contacts a metal gear in the engine, and both are closed. This was the one I had the most doubts about, because it would transfer grease to the engine part. Mainly the center differential, it is well closed and only a small part of contact between these two gears is open. In fact, this opening is just a connection for the part of the engine gears, which are also closed. It's like a small opening between two closed boxes. It's very interesting and it was very well done. This rule of applying only on capped gears must be to avoid sand attraction. The Razor RC told me to grease the big gear on the engine, it's the biggest one on the engine. However, I think he was wrong because this gear is plastic. Or else I was the one who was wrong to say the part number. It's really cool to learn about the RC car that I like so much, I want more and more to learn how to disassemble it all safely and know its parts. In the end, I applied grease to this center differential gear, it ended up transferring grease to the engine gear and, when rotating with the car running, it soiled the inner walls of the engine gearbox (case). In my country it doesn't sell traxxas and the other RCs are quite expensive too, even the ones from the banggood website. So I'm pretty much a perfectionist with my monster truck. So I analyzed the situation and noticed that much of the grease comes off when the gears rotate at high speeds. So I'm going to apply it, rotate the engine, then disassemble it, clean the inner walls and close everything again. It's also no use filling the entire box with grease, because the rotation does the same thing and spreads the grease away from where it rotates. Spreads to sides of gearbox. I do all this because, to me, my Traxxas Maxx is a relic and a perfect car, not to mention that I'm not rich and the local money in my country is worth five times less than the dollar. So my maxx is practically a passenger car, so I can have fun without throwing it in the mud or sand. I like asphalt and grass better, even so, I don't miss my two meter high jumps. Hugs my friend! Greetings from Brazil!
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How to Replace Steering Servo in 3s Arrma Rc’s. ruclips.net/video/MAzcDBheWeU/видео.html.
You say, "mint!" I haven't heard anyone use that word in place of "great" since the 90s.
Do you have a young sounding voice? Or did you grow up in the decade of decadence too?
Either way, love the help. This video is mint!
@@Inertia888 Hahahaha. Ya, I still use that word… born in’76 my friend! Thank you for watching!
I'm rebuilding a Arrma 3s diff right now and had some questions. So I remembered how good you do with repair videos I came straight to your channel. Thanks PhillyB_RC ... You have been extremely helpful in my learning process. 👍👍
Thanx alot for the compliment! Glad to help!
Man I am loving all the instructional videos you do! I’m a mechanical guy, but if I can find a video that saves me some time figuring it out on my own it’s pretty awesome! Thanks for doing it!
Hey man, my pleasure. I love doing them! Glad it helped you. If you have any video suggestions, I m all ears. Lol. Thanx alot
This is a great instructional video. Servicing diffs in the 3S line of Arrmas is pretty easy. You can tell when you open the diff how low the diff fluid is. This is a common problem with ALL Arrma diffs. They always come low. It's worth checking them out of the box along with the grease around the crown and input. One more note for anyone doing this for the first time. Don't over tighten the screws for the yoke. It can bind the diff. Check that it's not bound before you put it all back together.
Thanx for the input.
I just picked up a basket case big rock with a blown diff... it will be my first time working on an Arrma, this is video gold! Thanks a bunch! (snapshot camera sound could be leveled down to match the other audio)
The camera sound is to wake you up!! LOL. Thanx alot, I appreciate it
Thanks for the detailed diff rebuild! I'll be doing both diff rebuilds on the Big Rock for the first time today and will use this video as a guide. 👍
Hey, hope it helps! Let me know how you make out!
This was insanely helpful for me, I'm very new to the hobby and maintenance is super important. Liked and subbed.
Thanx! That’ great! Thanx for the support. Appreciated!
Sir
This the first video I seen since I got my Granite that actually helped the whole way through..... Thanks!!
Hey, I appreciate that!! Hopefully some of my other ones will be helpful also. Thanx for watchin
Don't stop making videos as philly people need you South philly all day
Thank you
Back again visiting is my 4s was going great but now I'm at a complete loss I have tried as much as my knowledge so when I throttle all that does make a noise like the clutch is slipping except a bit more squeaky / hire pitch have open front centre and rear diff they all seem to be sweet and tight any ideas or any response whatsoever would be massively appreciated😊
🔩 keep up the excellent Work man no mucking around simply put and didn't notice before but extremely well-spoken and well-worded🙏✌️
@@dnbarracus Thanks for the compliment. Means alot. Well, just gonna throw out a couple things to look at. Pinion gear isn t touching spur gear (motor moved). I was having a problem with the clutch (center diff in your case) was breaking the back side of the assembly, this would be going to the input side of your rear diff. It was broken so no power delivery. Do you have facebook? Send me a good video through messenger and i ll try to help.
I love how you’re using Lego baseplates to work on your Granite.
Haha. Me too, unfortunately my son wanted his table back! I have a new area in the basement, you llsee it if you check out something more recent. Thank you!
@@phillybrc oh I subbed immediately once I saw the baseplates. I’m a huge fan of both. RC and Lego.
@@jasonh8470 Haha, thank you so much. RC and lego seem to go hand-in-hand.
WoW great videos, i wish more people would do them just the way you did step by step, very well detailed 😉💪🏽💯Thank you again!
Thank you for that compliment, just let me know what videos you re lookin for and maybe I can make it! Thanx
@@phillybrc great thank you again, much appreciated 😉👍🏼💯
Great video man I just did my slash diff yesterday with some red n tacky now it feels like a million bucks again.
Awesome man, thanx for watching.
Just started watching the channel. Great instructional videos!! I like how you take your time and show exactly what you are doing step by step. Very helpful!!
Hey Joe, Just noticed the message. Sorry. I really appreciate that compliment, these motivate me!
Thanks heaps Man, followed along with your video pausing to catch most of the time... Got it done in a couple of hours and about 8 beers... Cheers from South Australia. JH.
So glad to hear! 🙏🏼👍🏻Appreciate the SUB!!
Oh man great job step by step I been looking for days for this. Too late broke two bearings and and new input gear!! This is the best on RUclips thank you so much. Mine is very rough may take apart but I will see??
Thanx for the compliment Mo, and thanx for watching.
I’m not sure, but I think I’ve commented on this video before brother. Awesome tips for sure.👍👊👊
Oh, you probably have bro. I appreciate you.
Very good video. Helped me install a metal diff in my Granite.
I do wish you showed how to access the front diff.
I'm a newbie, so I'm afraid of just randomly unscrewing things in the front where the steering and servo are.
Thanks for showing the hex driver used to get the driveshafts off, i had to buy one special, but it went fine.
Good point, i did not. Try this vid, i show it here if i’m not mistaken. Thank you dude. ruclips.net/video/flOnQvISOiQ/видео.htmlsi=q0G8dRaey3G44BkP
This was helpful man, thanks for sharing. I especially liked where you called out the diff case seal - I used totally new case for mine and missed transferring it over, and didnt buy it separately. When I bolted the case together at first I could see the case end was deforming slightly, bottoming out on the shafts too hard. Knew I was missing something so I watched this and saw the seal - realised I'd missed it and problem solved. Also the grease, how much to use? A metric F-ton, excellent :)
Hahaha. Yep, I just shovel the grease in! Glad this helped you! Lots more to come.
I'm pretty handy, so when I need a video to help I usually just need a few minutes of the video to help get past where I'm stuck. This video is amazing! I love the sped up video with the narration over top. I got the exact info I needed fast. Thanks!!! I do have a quick question, is the grease and oil plastic safe, or is the plastic oil safe?
I understnd the the grease and oil are plastic safe...thats what I ve read, provided that was a good source. Thanx for watching the video and thanx for the compliment!
Yup same here, can't stand watching some moron babble about nothing at all just to learn he knows less than I do .
Great vid, liked and subscribed!
Thanx alot. Time is valuable and finding out you re watching vid that isn t going to help SUCKS! Lol. Thx forwatching and for the SUB!👍🏻
Seen this comment on other videos 😂😂😂
Saved me from hobby shop work again, great video..thank you..keep it up...
Music to my ears. Thanx alot!
Best comprehensive video so far. Thanks
Huge compliment. Thanx so much.✌🏻
Awesome how to vid bro, well detailed!! 😎 👍 👊 🍻
I just recently picked up my first 3S line car from Arrma, the Infraction mega 4x4, $150 summer sale. It's a whole different animal from the 6S line-up that I'm used to working on. I have been meaning to get into the diffs so I can make remove any roll resistance but been putting it off lol. I did modify the gearbox to use mod1 gears & remove the clutch system. I got that puppy doing 85mph back to back on 4S with cool temps, no motor fan or heatsink, hobbywing 2200kv ezrun motor & castle MMX 6S esc. These 3S-4S line-up cars have serious potential lol. Just geared up & put GRP tires on it, hopefully it will hit mid 90s next.
Awesome work bud, Keep'm Fast!! 😎👍 👊 🍻
That sounds like an animal bro! These are wicked vehicles for being plastic. Hope the video helps you, I have others on my channel as well! Thanx
@@phillybrc lol, thanks,Absolutely!!
real reason I been putting off doing the diffs on this infraction mega was cuz they looked buried & was too lazy to get into it 😂. I been too busy getting the last videos in for my channel before peak winter, I do speedruns. My goal this season was 140, I hit 141 on 6S with my limitless GT.
I will definitely check out your vids, always searching for helpful tips.
Keep'm Fast Bro! 😎 👍 👊 🍻
@@rcbustanut2057 cool man! I ll check out your channel. The diffs aren t that bad of a task… i m lazy too lol
Just found your channel. Excellent video. Just had mine apart yesterday then this video popped up today. I wish I had seen it before I did the job!! Thank you
Thanx alot! Save it for next time! 🙏🏼
And that's a sub! No less, no more. Maybe the off screen frame work was a bit annoying, but manageable 😎
Thanks !🎉
@@onemanmayhem i’ll take it! Thx. I don t even know what off screen framework is😂
Wow excellent vid man like the guy above said, best dismantle vid for the 3s range, after months I can put my 3 3s back together, cheers ✌️
Glad to hear! Hope it helps!
Great video, saved to my favourites for the secondhand big rock coming this week.
Hey man! Music to my ears!! I trust it will help you out! Thanx for watchin’!
Great video, well made and easy to follow. Nice that you sped up the actual working portion then narrated over the top. Subbed for more great RC content.
Much appreciated! Thanx for the compliment and the SUB! Im gonna check you out as well.
Yea I was actually wondering how do u or what do u use to edit it like that. I tried putting text on my video but couldn't figure out how to put in at the specific time I wanted at?
Thanks for the video. Saved me days of research.
Hey right on! That s what I’m here for! Thank you
Thanks again for this video! I just spent an hour following along with you. Don't know if I coulda done it without ya! Great contribution to RUclips and Arrma communities. Much appreciated. It's b/c of this video that I subscribed.
So glad to hear that and thanx for the compliment! Appreciate you.
1:00 a small tip for the future, leave a very small amount of grease on that sliding red piece and the motor assembly sliding things as the next time will be 1000x times easier to remove. I still remember the hassle of the first time I had to take that out, now it slides just fine :)
Right on, great point. Thank for the input!
@@phillybrc welcome 👊 have a good one!
Thanks for the tip, I absolutely hate removing that piece. I unwisely tried to prise it out using the motor as leverage and bent the motor mount in doing so. PITA that thing and every how-to makes it look like it comes out so easy and I'm there like COMEONNNNNNNNNE
@@timmurrayy I remember the first time I tried, it was painful... Now a little pull and comes off, same goes for the motor mount and all those sliding things
Hey just want to say I appreciate your videos
And I appreciate you dude!! Makes it rewarding. THANX
Thanks for sharing this video! Very helpful and made me do this step by step :-)
Pls keep on making this instructional videos.
Cheers!
These are my fave comments! Thank you. I do have a few more on my channel. If there s something lacking, let me know! I m open for suggestions
Awesome vid. Really helped me out today, great detail!!!
Glad it was helpful!
i have more arrma typhon parts still sealed in bags than ill ever use. ive had mine for 5yrs or so, and the thing still runs great. i took care of it, i notice the caber & toe adjustment threaded rods are showing signs of some minor rust, and the end hex screws that are on the ends of the wheel axles are absolutely stuck in place. its not threadlock, because ive taken them off in the past, im guessing its rust. still dont know how ill get them off. aside from that, those cars were pretty durable. the screws break though. i use marine lubricant in my diffs, and on mesh gears. in diffs its great because it is water repellant, its a little more viscous than lighter grease, but not so much that it causes issues
Im with you, this platfor has treated my kids and i well, still run them often. Regular wear will happen! Thanx for watching
Sweet.. Thank you so much for doing this for us.! 😜 👍 ❤️
Stay safe out there mate & best wishes from Scotland 🏴
Thanx very much! My pleasure and thanx for watchin’!
much appreciated i rebuilt my diff and it making a funny sound. you got a new subscriber!
Great to hear!! More to come. Thank you
@@phillybrc is 3000k Diff. Fluid okay for an Arrma Senton v3 3s?
Well, stock is 10k. I wouldn t do it
Awesome good video !! You just made my life so much easier ! Thank you sir !
Sweet! Thanx for watching and check my channel for more please. 🤜🤛
@@phillybrc Thank you ! And I will be checking out your videos !!
Nice work man, thanks for sharing 👍🏽
Great informative video there buddy , just picked up the Vorteks Boost and as with any RC car I always like to remove any factory diff oil and make sure grease is applied . Was looking for a video that shows me how to do this and stumbled across your channel 👍.
Thanks once again .
You are welcome Chris. You bought a great platform there. I have a couple other vids that may help. Thanx for watching and commenting.
I've found that sometimes the spider gears requires shimming with a tiny washer to help eliminate side to side slop, nice video!
Cool, I havn t heard of anybody shimming these gearboxes. Interesting. I m gonna research that. Thanx for the input. Thanx for watching Dan!
@@phillybrc It was a brand new diff too. the spiders could fall into a way that meant that all four would touch the outdrive. which would smash the teeth off the outdrive. just one small washer stopped it.
How do you measure slop/lash when you need the case assembled to support both ends of the shafts?
@@timmurrayy You can hear the gears rattling if you assemble it with no silicon oil when they need shimming for slop. Nothing I know of you can do about lash. I had multiple failures of internal diff outdrives from the spiders getting to loose and being able to slip up and down the shaft that holds them smashing them into the outdrives.
Interesting. I havn t anybody have this problem. I will say the rear diffs of my 2 cars fell very different from one another. One smoother than the other. I put a 3mm shim between the yokes to avoid over-tightening.
What's Happening Captain
Hopefully All's Well
I'm upgrading myself to 3s it was beginning to get nerve wrecking but Thanks 😊
Now I can Drive Again!!
#arrmaTRUCKZ
Thank you for this! Super helpful!! Please keep the videos coming!
My pleasure! Thanx for being here!
thank you for this video for a blx senton and upgrading to 4s
Thx for watching
Great video mate!! Greeting from Spain!
Thanx very much!!
Loved it.
Thank you so much for the demo.
💪🇺🇲🤘
Thanx for my watchin’🤜🤛
@phillybrc for sure. It's the least I could do.
Great video mate!! Greetings from Spain!!
Much appreciated my friend.👍🏻
On my granite diffs I put a little washer in between the yoke through the 2 screws And when I tighten the screws down it doesn't rub the yoke no more.it spins its ass off freely. I would show you a picture but cant on RUclips. Great video by the way
Thanx brother. How about you email me a pic? I m interested. Philborrelli@hotmail.com
Will do
That was really helpful. Really well done!
Thanx so much, Glad it helped you!
Love the content, are you ever gunna go over your tools, spare parts, that cool block thing.. I really enjoy watching your vids :D I noticed on my v3 Senton 3S BLX they put a drop of epoxy on the two motor mount screws, the clutch screw, the wheel knuckle, and on the diff left/right end parts. I removed that stuff.. and replaced with vibratight blue gel. I also had some issues with getting bearings to come off.. I found that using a thin clearance wrench and softly banging on it, made bearings come loose without breaking anything.
Raiden, thanks very much. I could go over my tools I suppose lol. I find in my earlier videos, my retention rate goes down when I show tools. I will add a link to the hand-tool set I use. Also, that “block thing” is my wife’s yoga block from the “Dollar Mart”! It works great and is cheap. I use blue Loc-tite on all metal-to-metal except I use “red” on pinikn gears. I appreciate all comments!
You must have spent a few hours on editing video and it was worth it. Well made 💪 🙂
It will help many beginners 🔧
Thanx man! It def took me longer than it should have!...but I m content with the finish product. Thanx for checkin’ it out!
Too informative bro 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanx for checkin’ it out!
Very informative video 👍 made easy work of cleaning out my diffs 👍
Hey Thanx bro, Glad it helped!!
Im going to soon have a 6S video. I actually love working of diffs lol
@@phillybrc I gave my Big Rock a mud bath on Tuesday so I had to tear it down. I didn't want to do it lol
Thank you this helped so much!!!!
GLAD TO HEAR ADEN!! Thanx alot
This video helped me a lot, thanks!
My question, I have ordered 20k oil for the gears, can I use my copper grease to grease up the diff etc or is that a no go? I don't want to spend money on these tiny tubs of grease if possible
I m not familiar with copper grease, using a marine style grease that doesn t break down when it gets wet is what you should go with. I use Red’nTacky, it s “waterproof”. Thanx
This was great, have one for the front ?
Thanks 4 the vid! Just blew out the rear end on the Senton 3s lol 👍
Bummer, but this vid should help!! Thx for watchin! 🤜🤛
3:10 it took me ages till I realised they is a bolt in there 😅 great design
Haha, yes! It s a tough find!
Fantastic video, thank you!
Thanx for watchin!!!
This video is great thank you!
Thanks alot. Thanx for watchin!
I love those ZD racing shocks
I agree, they look sweet. They work well too. Not sure if you noticed but I did a video on them. Thanx for watchin!
think running the gears dry will be fine, or use a silicone based or other plastic safe lubricant. normal grease will over time soften the plastic
I ve always used some type of marine grease on my diffs, I ve been working on this tube of Red n Tacky for over a year now, It s faired well. 👍🏻Thanx
Is there a difference in the 3s vs the 4s diffs Thanks bro
Not Version 1 4s models, but version 2,4s models are all metal.
Great instructions
Glad you liked it!! Thanx
Man thanks for this video! Super helpful and informative. I was wondering if you consider worth to change differentials to metal once the plastic ones begin to wear out. Or should I stay on plastic stock ones? Thank you very much for your answer. I’m subscribing right now! 😊
I really appreciate the SUB! Honestly, although I eventually went to metal, I stayed plastic for a long time simply because it was cheaper and forced me to learn to drive better and be mindful of breakages, especially if you are running with kids or inexperiencedl. Im still plastic spur gear however. Thanx for watchin. Let me know if there are videos you d like to see.
@@phillybrc man thanks a lot for your reply:D I think you’re absolutely right, I better start improving my skills before thinking about new parts I don’t even need yet. And as a beginner well almost everything on your channel is new to me. Maybe it’ll be good a video on how to properly bash an rc? I mean what you should prepare before session, what to do during the session and what parts check or repair after bashing. Again thank you for your answer.
Wicked video my man
Thanks for the compliment!
Thanks for the video it is very helpful. the metal upgrade is $100 and it says it will bring it up to 4s specs I upgraded my Typhon to 4s is that to much for plastic diff?also you mentioned a shim what is that? did you use a metal washer?
Thanks for watchin. Well, depends on your driving style and the surfaces you run your RC really. For the most part, you may be asking alot of the RC to run 4s in it. the metal diff would be a solid upgrade. Make sure your slipper clutch isn't overtightened, get off the throttle when landing jumps(espicailly high-traction surfaces like grass). Also, consider lowering your punch setting. The biggest one is throttle control, only stab throttle in loose conditions, where tires can break free. The shim is a thin washer essentially, I usually put mine on the large crown gear side. THe diffs are expensive, possibly consider putting metal yokes on stock diff. i hear this works well since it reduces flex, hope this helps.
Great video, do you have for changing the front, also. I noticed that you had made a hole under the center diff in the body? Why was this done? Thanks,
Rick
Front is pretty much the same. The hole is to allow dirt to escape the motor module. When dirt can escape, it wont ruin or strip your spur gear. It works awesome!
@@phillybrc got it, thanks.
well done im curious though. why go back with the stock plastic gear when theres a metal upgrade?
Budget my friend. I couldn t afford the metal setup, plastic parts are cheaper. I also tried to use it as a tool to try to get better at driving….my son also
Thanks for watchin!
@@phillybrc yea i just looked and saw the price of metal gears they must be pretty proud of them glad to hear the stock ones hold up decently well
@@drewp9112 Thanx. I have since gone metal in 2 of my 3s Arrmas, no complaints. 1 is an AArrma setup and one is the helical Hot Racing. Both run great. I have yet to go to metal spur though. Metal spur will send the energy to the diffs and damage, meanwhile the plastic spur is cheap and easy to replace, It's that red motor plate that is the biggest problem in my opinion, once that is bent ,spur gets shredded.thank you
Nicely done👌🏻
Thanx for watching!
Can you use some black RTV silicone along with the diff gasket to help seal it up for no leaky diffs?
I havn t considered doing that, but maybe if was really thin layer? Not teally sure about that one, sorry.
Awesome video bro 👌🔥
Thank you. Happy New Year
Excellent video turk
Thanx TURK!!!
Very good video thanks so much
Thanx alot!! Hope it helps you!
I just got some Lucas Red N tacky, I've never done a diff swap, but if you could guess, how long would it last do you think on the diffs before I can clean and add some more?
Maintenance question obviously here but yeah, kinda need your opinion
Forgot to add on, but amazing video by the way, got the car disassembled quickly with your help!
@@frostlynreyes Oh awesome, thank you. If you didn t get your rc wet very much, and depending on the amount of use….every 2-3 months is my opinion.
I've read somewhere that Red N Tacky can degrade plastics over time, have you experienced any problems with it?
I was looking for some good grease to use and got this lmao
Yes, I ve read a couple different things...but ultimately was looking for a type of marine grease. It s all i could find at the time. I m not worried about it. Thanx!
Awesome video, thank you so much! Subscribed!
I appreciate! Thanx.
Very helpful!!!
Thanx alot! Glad it helped!
I've just done this with a new diff case and input gear, boy is it stiff...followed this video and made sure it's right according to the diagram in the manual. So I am wondering.....is this common and does it just need to wear in?
Oh really? I thought it needed to work in also, but it doesn t seem to improve. I had an interesting suggestion that I want to try myself…put a small 3mm flat washer where the yokes unite. Just to create a little space…make sense?
@@phillybrc That does make sense.....I backed the yoke screws out and it loosened up, I was thinking some kind of spacer too!
Or perhaps just leave then slightly loose and tighten them after a few runs when the gears have worn a bit? Spacer is probably best.
@@madaxman72 Yep! Either way. I just didn t crank them tight but i will try the spacer. Good luck man.
Great video
Thanx very much. Thanx for watching.
Great video but when rebuilding the rear differential why not just go with the hot Racing set ?
That s a fair question. First off, I’ m cheap! Lol. Secondly, parts are hard to come by right now. My LHS didn t have one in stock. Thirdly, I feel stock gears applies to more people, therefore making this video attractive to more people. I may do it in the future though. Thanx for watchin !!
Absolutely right Parts are hard to come by right now. And Ya you right people like to see stock parts being replaced.🍻🍻🍻🍻
@@freshej6 Perhaps I ll do a Hot Racing vid soon. Thanx again.🤜🤛
Sorry I’m confused between the versions of diffs and input gears with 37 and 49 teeth for differentials and 13 and 17 teeth for inputs. Will any of this fit the granite 1/10 3S BLX? And what are the main differences in performance and durability? Thanks
Hey man. Keep in mind the parts I use in this video are for the BLX brushless version. The other ones are for the brushed motor, slower versions. They have a different “pitch” of gears so they require more teet to achieve desired performance. Thanx for stoppin’ by.
@@phillybrc thank you for the advice, you’re very kind. Warm regards!
This video is perfect. I'm a complete newb when it comes to differentials. Where do I get that 20,000 oil?
Great. Thanx for watching. Many more videos to come. I got the diff oil from my local hobbyshop. I believe you can get it from Amazon or something like that also. 🤝
@@phillybrc sorry, i did end up hearing that in the video. That stock was 10,000cst but you got 20,000 from your local hobby shop because that’s all they had. Sorry to waste your time with the redundant question you already answered in the video. I should have deleted that question.
@@Funcentric Man, no worries at all!
@@phillybrc you got yourself a new subscriber! Keep up the good work. Your video is literally the only how to video on this subject. Others show how THEY do it but not instructional for the viewer to do it themselves. Good lighting and good audio on your video. Love it
@@Funcentric Thank you for the SUB and thank you for the compliment! Appreciated. 🤝
Great info man!
I appreciate that. Thanks man
Beautiful hands!
I grew my nails for you!
Really nice video. Good quality 👍🏻. I just have to do the same with my granite but after that I screw the York’s it’s doesn’t turn smoothly. When you do yours is he turn perfectly smooth before you run it?
Not really smooth, alot of guys have the same issue. It seems the top of my input gear rubs on the main gear housing. Mine s running great thus far so i m goin with it. Make sure your bearing in out-drive gears are good
Every things is good except that it’s not turning smooth. But I.´m gonna try it like that I guess. In the worst case I’m gonna have to buy a new input and new diff case. Ok thanks and keep making nice video
@@Yogz_z philborrelli@hotmail.com send a video and perhaps i have some input for you.
Just thought if something. Do you have the gasket in? Cuz if you dont , it tightens the parts inside. Even so, back the screws off 1/4 turn...it maybmake a difference without causing a leak
Great video. What type of shocks do you have? Looking for some for my granite and a big rock. Thank you
ruclips.net/video/HiwwLb1x2BQ/видео.html
I bought these a few months back, they ve been real good! So cheap, you should try them! Thanx for watching!
Great video man, do you normally put thicker fluid in your front diff than the rear. To help stop the front tires ballooning some.
Hey thanx alot! Yes, often times a thicker weight is added to the front compared to the rear. Ultimately I feel it’s a matter of opinion. I really like how my Granite handles with stock fluids and i enjoy the ballooning for bashing and air control. Nonetheless, the 20000 feels great and that was all my local hobby shop had in stock...without going to 500000k fluid. Thanx for watching and feel free to comment.
Im gonna try 50k in the front very soon. Leave 20k in the rear.
Hi im having trouble with removing the last bearing on input gear i already broke 2 bearings aswell. You mentioned that putting it on freezer could help, but it did not for me. How long should it be there to loosen it up?
Prob couple of hours. I ended up replacing the bearing since they are usually just a couple dollars
Great video thanks👍🏻💯💯
Thanx alot!🤜🤛
Dude 😮 I've got to do that to my Senton, should I do that to the front differential also?? Vegas Paul here.
@@paulmaldonado7039 Hey man. yes,i do. I use 50k in the front i believe
thanks a lot. very good video
Thanx for watching!
what type of diff oil do you recommend for the arrma senton 3s im planning to use front 15k and rear 10k is that good?
@@morooks9310 that would be fine, I def would go thicker in the front.
have had issues with my differential not wanting to move freely when i tighten down the screws in the yoke. I know it is not a wear issue the truck is fairly new. Have not found anything online for a solution so I am waiting on back order for hot racing differential and yoke. Please let me know if you have any tips for these diffs and their yokes.
That s too bad. All i can think of is ensure screws aren t over-tightened and tightened evenly. make sure you have gasket on the diff cap, this will reduce clearance if missing. Let me know if this helps. Good luck
Mine definitely doesn’t spin freely like yours not even close. I noticed you put the second bearing on without even a socket and hammering it in?? Mine both had to be hammered to hell.. I don’t know? If the first bearing goes to the end or not?? Mine is Arrma Granite blx V3??
Ya, i didn’t have to use a socket on the second bearing on the input shaft. I bottom the first one out though. I now add a little 3mm Washer on the screws between the yoke halves. The allows for less squeezie f that makes sense.
Aweosme vid, thanks! BTW what weight fluid do you recommend for the front? An where did you get that sweet pick/pry screwdriver?
Thanx alot. I now run 20k rear and 50k front in my granite and typhon, been doing that for a while and no complaints! If the the pry tool link isn t in the description, i will add it now! It s a life-saver and rely on it!
@@phillybrc lol I know man I saw that tool and instantly have to have it! Well I actually have 60k extra I don’t have 50. Think that’ll be much diff.? Shouldn’t be
@@miketye2805 i would go for it, it won t be much difference. Let me know how you make out. I wouldn t go too thick in the rear though.
@@phillybrc I’ll let you know. I’m either gonna go 20k Or 60k in front cause it’s what I got. Rear I already did with 20
@@miketye2805 try the 60. It will reduce ballooning in front tires, which i like.
Awesome video but were did you get your small pry bar at ?
So cool right?! Found it at work actually. I ll try to find a link!
Found a link!! Check description box!
what grease is the red grease you put ? Is it necessary ? I don`t have it. Does normal grease work too ? Such as used for bearings for bikes or engines and such. I have a whole jar of it.
Grease is necessary. If you don t have the Red and Tacky that I m using, I recommend a marine grease. Regular white lithium grease is not substantial. Thanx Martin
@@phillybrc so it turns out this is a special type of grease. Can you please post a link for it ?
Hi friend, I'm from Brazil and I have some questions. I would be very happy if you would help me! I have already discovered that it is necessary to apply grease to the outer gears of the differentials, but I really wanted to know if I should also grease the gears of the engine. Example: 6448 parts: Spur gear, 8985: Input gear transmission, both from Traxxas Maxx. Another question is that the center differential gear comes into contact with a motor gear, should I grease it too? Part 8988. Inside Driveshaft 8949, do I also need to apply grease?
What I do in the video is exactly what i do with my own RC’s. I do not grease my pinion, spur or outdrive gears, they stay dry. I havn t seen anybody grease those before. Hope this helps.
@@phillybrc Thank you! Yes, it helped. But I'm still thinking because it's a gear that was greased at the factory.
@@wise--men That s very possible! Let me know how you make out. Thanx!
@@phillybrc The best response I got was from John Robinson RC. He said that in general, the rule is to apply grease when the gears in contact are both metal and if they are inside closed cups. In my case of the Traxxas Maxx design the outer gear of the center differential contacts a metal gear in the engine, and both are closed. This was the one I had the most doubts about, because it would transfer grease to the engine part. Mainly the center differential, it is well closed and only a small part of contact between these two gears is open. In fact, this opening is just a connection for the part of the engine gears, which are also closed. It's like a small opening between two closed boxes. It's very interesting and it was very well done. This rule of applying only on capped gears must be to avoid sand attraction. The Razor RC told me to grease the big gear on the engine, it's the biggest one on the engine. However, I think he was wrong because this gear is plastic. Or else I was the one who was wrong to say the part number. It's really cool to learn about the RC car that I like so much, I want more and more to learn how to disassemble it all safely and know its parts.
In the end, I applied grease to this center differential gear, it ended up transferring grease to the engine gear and, when rotating with the car running, it soiled the inner walls of the engine gearbox (case).
In my country it doesn't sell traxxas and the other RCs are quite expensive too, even the ones from the banggood website. So I'm pretty much a perfectionist with my monster truck. So I analyzed the situation and noticed that much of the grease comes off when the gears rotate at high speeds. So I'm going to apply it, rotate the engine, then disassemble it, clean the inner walls and close everything again. It's also no use filling the entire box with grease, because the rotation does the same thing and spreads the grease away from where it rotates. Spreads to sides of gearbox.
I do all this because, to me, my Traxxas Maxx is a relic and a perfect car, not to mention that I'm not rich and the local money in my country is worth five times less than the dollar. So my maxx is practically a passenger car, so I can have fun without throwing it in the mud or sand. I like asphalt and grass better, even so, I don't miss my two meter high jumps.
Hugs my friend! Greetings from Brazil!
@@wise--men Very interesting and thanx for sharing!
First thing u wana do is throw the plastic gears in the trash
I havn t done that yet, I feel it s coming soon. Thanx