Ford 3.5/3.7L DOHC V6 Timing Chain Replacement, Cloyes 9-4226S & 9-0738S
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- 🔥 This technical video from Cloyes covers the removal and installation of the timing drive system for Ford's 3.5/3.7L DOHC engine.
⚠️ IMPORTANT INSTALLATION NOTE: ⚠️
You must activate the secondary tensioners after installation.
CLIP REMOVAL DOES NOT ACTIVATE THE TENSIONERS!
See our tech note here: www.cloyes.com/wp-content/upl...
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⛓ Part numbers related to this video are: 9-0738S, 9-0738SA, 9-0738SB, 9-0738SC, 9-4226, 9-4226S, 9-4226SVVT, 9-4226SWP, 9-4226SX, 9-4227, 9-4228, 9-5658, 9-5659, 9-5660, 9-5661, 9-5662, 9-5663, 9-5664, 9-5686, 9-5687, 9-5688, 9-5689, 9-5690, 9-5691, 9-5692, 9-5693, 9-5694, 9-5695, 9-5696, 9-5697, 9-5698, C738F, S976T, S977, S995, VC114, VC115, VCB114, VTS114
⚙️ Please see our online catalog at www.cloyes.com/part-finder for full details and to confirm vehicle fitment.
🚗 Application coverage ranges from the model years 2007-2019 and the following vehicles:
Ford Edge
Ford Expedition
Ford Explorer
Ford F-150
Ford Flex
Ford Fusion
Ford Mustang
Ford Police Interceptor Sedan
Ford Police Interceptor Utility
Ford Taurus
Ford Taurus X
Ford Transit-150
Ford Transit-250
Ford Transit-350
Ford Transit-350 HD
Lincoln MKS
Lincoln MKT
Lincoln MKX
Lincoln MKZ
Lincoln Navigator
Mazda 6
Mazda CX-9
Mercury Sable 
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An excellent feature of this video is that the Cloyes technical support team shows how to time the engine properly without the use of the unnecessary camshaft holding tools. Most instructional guides and videos will suggest the special tools are necessary and will show the installation using these tools. Our process saves the customer time and money while still ensuring a proper installation. When servicing the timing components on engines equipped with an internal water pump, Cloyes also recommends water pump replacement.
All cloyes timing videos are money. I’m a mechanic by profession and any time I’m doing a chain I pull up the cloyes vid if there is one and go to work. They’re the most professional and informative I’ve found. Top notch.
i am looking at a 2015 ford 3.7 with 103000 miles. would the timing chain failure cause the check engine light to come on?
I too loves these and melling videos. Headphones an play the video while I do the work. Just for a piece of mind
I don't even need to replace my timing chain but I ended up watching the video anyway because it was so well done! Thanks for the video!!
This is maybe the best instructions on a video I’ve ever seen
I agree. Thanks
100 percent agree! Thank you for the video!
Without question,dude was already sweating, did amazing
This was the only video I've found that actually covered the teardown of replacing the main chain and the smaller ones as well. Thanks a ton for that! So many others just showed the timing marks and called those "replacement" videos.
Look for FordTechMakuloco. He has a 4-part series on this job and goes through every step including the one you mentioned.
Be cautious using a T55 bit. The bolt is actually a TP55 (torx plus) and using a regular torx can strip the bolt. Ask me how I know lol
Please don't be a dumb question lol. Does it say on the bit "T55+"?
I can’t even break mine loose. Me and my dad can’t crack them loose with both of us doing it. Did you have this issue?
@@OnlyNukes I had to use a 30" breaker bar. Even then, I had to grunt.
@@nonotthatoneguy yeah i had to use a 2 ft breaker bar. definitely wasn’t easy as shown haha
I hate when "we" are the example 😒
I do a lot of timing chains and cylinder heads at the shop I work at and I always watch the Cloyes videos to see how to install the chains. Thank you for your high quality videos that make my job so much easier.
would a timing chain cause a CEL on a 2015 3.7?
Master tech here with 32 years experience. First of all this is an awesome video with good clear instructions. I have watched many of Cloyes videos and used quite a few of their products over the years. I also am the owner of a high volume shop. The only thing that i might humbly add is that when the engine is in the vehicle and has not been apart since it's birth, those camshaft bolts are gonna be super tight and require a long breaker bar to get loose. It is going to require some serious controlled torque. The holding tools are not necessary but are very useful after getting the bolts broke loose just before you wiggle the phasers off. I dont know why but it seems like the rear (while in the vehicle) exhaust camshaft likes to jump around off of the lobe. I install the holders just before i pull phasers off. I just use a cheap amazon set. I DO NOT use them to hold the cams while breaking bolts loose. This is not necessary like Cody said but it is helpful for me. I really appreciate the awesome videos and instructions from Cloyes.
We wanted to show a new tech how to do it and bam. Perfect video.
Awesome video!!! 30lbs then full turn back then 18lbs then a 180 was new to me but I did exactly that thanks
You. Need. The. Tool! We followed this video, word for word, and had the secondary chains off 3 times until we decided to check Ford's procedure. Cam locking tools installed, reassembled and this piece of Ford is finally out of our lives. 2013 F-150, 3.5 turbo.
It can be done without the tool. The tool does simplify it but if you're only doing this job one time they aren't necessary.
PLUS, instead of the cam holding tool, you can use 2 wrenches on the cams and vice grip pliers the wrench handles together ....
I'm looking forward to doing one of these today. Too bad it is still in the vehicle.
Thanks for the vid, I expect to refer back to it several time.
Thanks for the video. I am replacing water pump on 2014 Explorer and following Alldata, Ford instructions, I waited to get the locks before removing chain. marking the chain and cam marks and could get the lock to slide down perfect on back cam but wouldn't quite set all the way down on front cams. I mean it held the cams in place but would not lock all the way down. After replacing pump that was bad, I could not seem to get everything to line up to the painted chain links I'd painted after aligning. so I spent the $90 on Cloyes center chain, and following this, as I was installing I had to back of a little on the front head. Turning the exhaust cam with a wrench with the cam lock almost, but not quite in position, the chain went on the mark and the cam lock fell right into place. Then when I came to lining up the crank pulley, it was a tooth off from where I'd painted original chain. So I have the cover and everything under back in place, mount and soon everything else.
im a ford tech and this way a much better install guide then alldata or any other service proceeddure I found
Straight to the point. Love the video just finished new timing chains and water pump on a 2014 ford explorer this video helped a lot.
Well done. Best instructions I have ever seen.
9:33 sweating like a boss. Also, this video is absolutely invaluable!!! Kudos for putting in up on youtube!!!!!! Extremely helpful. I'm contemplating replacing the water pump on a Ford Explorer.
this video helps a lot for us to enhance our skills! thanks Cloyes and Godbless
This is real good. Very refined and informed.
perfect man, you so good. you talk abuot our mind and explain great the job and the complication. love you video
Best video of you tube for this job ,thank you cody
Totally awesome Great instructions
I'm not so sure I'd be telling all that the cam locks aren't necessary. I'd say they make torquing the cam gear bolts to spec exponentially easier when the engine is in the vehicle. And totally worth $24.
What makes us different? We go the extra mile to provide training videos to enable the professional installer and DIYer to be successful. We make sure the system we provide works, the parts are OE or better in quality and performance, and the intelligence to install it right, the first time.
Oh really the extra mile? Why don't you add the tty camshaft t55 bolts into the water pump kit I ordered. I had to source them from someplace else. You added the secondary chain and cam sprocket so I've gotta remove the bolts to replace those. And I can't reuse those bolts as you mention in the video.
Love the video instruction, just your gonna go this far, complete the whole kit.
Hi I have followed all the steps in video but I have 0 pressure in all 6 spark plugs. Any idea why would that be. I am working on 2011 F150 3,5. Thank You
Keep up the good work!! I'm getting ready to order!!!
@@BM-rc1qq do you know if you had the timing chains slip on you? If this is the case you could still have all of the marks in the proper position but be 180 degrees off. It’s good practice after completing this job to turn the crank around so you can hear the engine hissing indicating you have compression.
I have done so many of these is ridiculous.
And why 0 psi in all 6, if the timing is right then the motor bent valaves when the chain jumped time or stretched.
I attempted this without out the tool and the timing was off by 2 teeth after startup. I was getting a p0017 code. I had to pull off everything again and re adjust the timing with the tools. Definitely recommend doing it with camshaft locking tools. I did do this job once before without the tools and had no issues. I guess it was just luck.
did you bend your valves ?
Awesome video. Thank you!
Thank You Very Much, Sir.
Very detailed!
Incredible video
Great videos, I've used a few of them for chain replacements. However, you say you don't need the tool. You may not "need" the tool, but it's cheap, it ensures it's set perfectly, and it makes torquing the phaser bolts, which you didn't do, a whole lot easier.
instaBlaster.
The procedure for torqueing the phaser bolts was explained. Did you miss that?
By the way the torque procedure for SINGLE phaser bolts is different. 90° instead of 180°.
great video , anybody should be appreciate it
awesome instructions ,
Awesome video guys
Awesome video 100%
Jan 13 2022 Cody you are the Man once again! You saved me on the GM 3.6l chains too lol Amazing easy instructions to follow, I just completed this chain job and it runs better than ever! I did use the cam lockers though when torquing down the cam bolts..Thanks for your Great work Cody 😎👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Great video, I think I'll do the internal pesky water pump also 😮
Well done........
"Excellent Video" !!!
Excellent Video, I just want to point out that with the kit comes the guides, but one of the guides is different from the original. At least on a 2007 ford edge 3.5. this is the all black guide. The original guide has the chain riding on the opposite side of the new guide. A
lso you will need to find a longer bolt if you choose to use the new guide. I chose to use the original. Also it would be very good to include new bolts with the kits, as these do not come with them. Thank you again for a Great Video.
]
Very good
He is a pro
Единственная подробная инструкция в сети... Спасбочки.
I would have put a new oil pump on the front of the engine and everything will be new
2010 flex Ecoboost, definitely need a cam tool for rh head
My 2010 ecoboost flex did not use 1 1/16" clocking wrench for the camshafts. It was 7/8" .for anybody else who diy.
Thank you, i was just looking for this
That's a 22mm for anyone wondering.
So if I set my timing marks... what about my crank timing mark not lining up but my cams are where they need to be? Thanks for pointing out if the crank timing mark can line up with the dowel since the timing mark isn’t close at all, but I did like you said in the beginning and set the chain marks
He says you don't need the cam holding tool. BUY the Lisle tool 37200 and use it!!! or it's equivalent. The right-hand exhaust cam is prone to move. What happened to me is the phaser sat a little too long and lost enough oil to have free travel (there is an internal spring so it's not actually free travel but near enough) and the alignment dowel can fool you if you accidentally get the dowel in the channel. it felt good so I snugged it up regardless that the parallel flat surface on the cam and phaser drum were not aligned, I figured the difference was due to the loss of oil in the phaser, or perhaps the phaser was locked. Tying to get the alignment right so I could use the tool I had to unlock the phaser. Note: you will be holding a lot of loose parts trying to stab one drum then the other at the same time, for me I felt that familiar setting of the dowel when as I presume the dowel knocked against the edge of the recess, so when I applied pressure the cam moved I thought I had it. Note: when I got the tool and took it all apart to do it right this time I could see the indent the dowel made when I snugged the phaser up; I was way off. I hope I did not hurt this engine. I always turn one full turn and check for free travel. engine would not turn but a tiny bit and stop. I'm still not ready to start the engine but it feels good for two turns of the crank.
further note: I pulled the locking pin and spring out of the phaser that I was having trouble with and put it back after I had everything torqued
Praise God! I no damage it runs great.
Is the 30ft-lbs, loosen, then 18ft-lbs then 180 degrees the same for the single phaser motor? Man that is scary tight!
Cool....
If you have a dual vvt engine instead of the quad then you definitely should have the cam holding tool. They will be flipping around if you try turn them at all to set the sprockets
A have question When you Finish the Chine You have to Turn the engine
Awesome video. Thank you. Do you know if this is the same procedure for the 2010 Mazda CX-9?
Yes, that Mazda will be the same.
@@Cloyes01 thank you
Looks easy with the engine removed 🤣. Try this with the engine installed..... FUN !!! But it is a great how to !
I’m working on a 3.5 single phaser engine and identifix says phaser bolt torque steps seem to vary slightly.. step1 tighten to 30 lb-ft step2 loosen one full turn step 3 tighten to 89 lb-in. Step 4 tighten 90 degrees.. what do you think about those directions? Those inch pounds seemed different as well.. 🤷
Those are the correct specs according to our sources.
I was thinking about buying a (3.7engine) Mazda 2011 GT with 69,000 miles should I change the water pump and timing chain?
Just to confirm. This applies to the 17’ 3.5L F150, right? I see a lot of other videos and they mention all 3.5L ecoboost models except the F150
Good.. I do like you explained exctly but how i know my work is correct or wrong?
After i complete.. Rotat the engine but cannot back to same market . Why?
Rotat 12 times but cannot comeback the market on the dot?
But im not used gasgat 2mm
Good
BlackMan 1972 Great vedio but were you says 11:00 oclock position, on my clock that is 1:00 oclock
and were you say 1:00 oclock it's 11:00 oclock thanks for the vedio
Hello Cody I'm thinking that you tell that the Left mark it's 11 o clock and the right mark it's 1 o clock and the crank it's 4 o clock, I m thinking that the Left is 1 o'clock and the right is 11 o'clock and the crank it's right 4 o clock!
Not only is it good to buy form them for there quality parts. Even better they make a video to walk there customers threw the process .
You are Good. Am I a mechanic now?
Hello. My mazda cx 9 2008 with a 3.7 engine has a mileage of 300 thousand kilometers. I changed the coolant at 280,000 km when I bought the car. The fluid is checked twice a week. Should I replace the pump or the car and check the condition of the coolant and engine oil? What are the first symptoms of a leaking pump? I am asking for your opinions.p
👍👍
This was a great video!! I was wondering if you have a demonstration for a 3.5 engine that had a timing gear slip when you are turning the engine with a ratchet and now you have a lock up when the markings are out of alignment? I know that if you line everything up after you remove the chain there is basically a 50/50 shot of getting it right but I was unsure if there is a exact procedure for this situation.
50/50…? you’re not following the procedure correctly. If followed correctly it is 100% accurate every time.
@@harrybalsonya5619 you just mis understood what I am asking. You can be at TDC on the intake and TDC on the end of the compression stroke so if you have a lock up and you are unsure what stoke you are on how do you make that determination?
@@harrybalsonya5619 notice I asked about what the procedure would be if you have a lock up condition
You’re right, I misunderstood. There is no procedure written for this. If this does happen I would remove all spark plugs and measure where each piston is so you can have an idea as to where you may contact a piston while realigning the motor. If a valve contacts a piston I would attempt to rotate the crank one direction or the other to facilitate the rotation of the cams. You may have to do this several times until it is in time. But with this engine there is no chance it is wrong as long as the colored links line up with the indicators on the gears. Good luck, I hope this helps.
@@harrybalsonya5619 well how this happened to me is I had a lock up with the water pump and I had to cut the chain before the lines were lined up. I did figure it out but when I was putting it together I was just not 100% sure I was right. On this engine there is not many marks where on a Chrysler Pentastar engine to use for example you have dots in the cams and multiple sets of marks on the cam phasers to make sure everything is set correct. I wish they would do a scenario like this because I know it’s uncommon for this to happen but it’s not that uncommon that no information is available on how to do this when you have a timing component lock up before you can line up all the marks
Hello Sir;
You did a great super job BUT the demonstration of the tighten the 30 foot pound, the loosen 1 full turn which critical, it does not show, 18 foot pound and another critical face the 180 tighten degrees turn was not show but still was a great video, it would it save me a lot of money.
Respectfully;
Andy
Just bought a full kit and cloyes is still not including the longer bolt needed for the updated guide they send with the kit. Just a FYI since a year ago they were commenting here saying they're including them soon.
Cant get the timing marks to line up on the left side , right side is dead on with crank line up its off by a link no matter how i move the cams
Are these cloyes chain kits for the 3.5l eco boost , better then purchase it from Ford?
All of my timing marks are aligned with the one's on the chain but after 4 or 5 rotations of the crank it seems a piston is hitting a valve
هالو إذا أمكن شرح تعريف عن السنترمحرك سونيك 1400توربو
i have a 2012 ford explorer 3.5l my water pump failed the oem eater pump had a plastic propeller i bought one that has a metal propeller will that have any affect on the car
No, the metal impeller is a valid replacement. You will have no issues with using it.
I have been told the previous primary tensioner is better because it has the ratchet system that will keep the guide from coming back too far, vs the updated aluminum that relies on spring and oil pressure. I have both but dont know which to use
Both primary tensioner styles have a ratcheting mechanism, they just work a little differently. The aluminum tensioner should have grooves on the piston that work with the round spring ratchet clip, and the cast tensioner has a more traditional ratchet pawl with notches in the piston.
Either way, I would use the style that came original on the vehicle.
@@Cloyes01 Thanks, I ended up using the Cloyes timing kit for my 2012 3.5L F150 and everything ses to be running well
@@nicksvaik Was that the ecoboost? hows it doing a year later?
@@fishonnelson2353 funny you should ask, almost exactly 1 year later, maybe 15 000km the cloyes tensioner failed, wouldn't hold the ratchet so I put in all Ford OEM parts, no problems since.
@@nicksvaik Well that is just lovely. I just ordered all new everything - and I mean everything from Ford, but the one and only thing that was on back-order with no date for re-stock was the main tensioner so I got a Cloyes at O-Reilly's. What did the motor "do" when the tensioner failed?
Any advice for a ford 3.0l dohc timing chain set up. My tensioner broke and now it skipped so I'm worried about taking the chain off cause I don't want to hit a valve
Google it… it’s not rocket science
Question: I need to apply silicone to form a gasket at the back of the water pump to extra protection or the two gasket that come with the pump are enough. Thanks
The O-ring style gaskets on the back of the pump are all you need. Just make sure the engine surface is clean.
Never use sealant on o-rings.
What other way can you verify that you are in TDC besides relying on the timing marks alone? And how reliable are the timing marks on the crank and phasers to guarantee you are in time?
The timing marks are your best frame of reference. You can remove spark plugs and confirm where the pistons are, but the timing marks will confirm that you are on the correct stroke.The phasers are all indexed onto the cams by dowel pins and the crankshaft sprocket is indexed by its slot. Trust the sprocket marks and the marked links of the chain.
I bought a complete kit for a 2010 ford flex but the right upper guide was not the same as oem so i couldnt use it. It may have worked but my bolts were too short.
Ford did change the design of that upper right hand guide. If you own an earlier model engine you will see a difference in the guide and it will require longer bolts.
@@Cloyes01 We just ran into this and had to search you tube comments to make sure we weren't installing wrong parts. An updated instruction sheet included with the set would have been great. Maybe even include the bolts you'll need also? I would pay a couple dollars more to have it come with everything.
@@natechristensen6058 We have developed the bolt and it will be included with the guide very soon. I apologize that we didn't have it sooner and save you some hassle. Thank you for the feedback!
How long do these 3.5L phasers and chains last vs the stock OEMs in properly maintained engines?
🤔
🤔 good question
I watched a video where the guy says water pumps seem to fail between 350K and 400K I imagine the chains last longer than that. The best wisdom is, just replace the chains. Phaser locking pin will raddle on startup when phasers go bad or not bad so much as the customer would rather replace than listen to a second of raddle.
I also have another VERY important question: Are the cam bolt torque specs different on the non turbo 3.5L DOHC VCT SMPI Vs. the Ti-VCT?
The manual says 3 stages: 30ft lbs, loosen 1 full turn, tighten 89 INCH lbs then 90 degree tighten.
I followed another video's recommendations for my 3.5l. tighten to 30ft lb, loosen a full turn, then 18ft lbs and 180 tighten.
Did I over-tighten?
Do I need to grab 4 new bolts and do it over?
We recommend the sequence with the 180 degree final step. This should apply to all engines with quad VVT phasers.
@@Cloyes01 What about dual VVT phasers as opposed to quad? Same 180 degrees or is it 90 like Jeremy Fahrni asked? I have also seen reference to the other sequence.
What should I do if when taking tensioner off and loosening chain the crankshaft rotated on me? Can I rotate it by itself back to that 4 o'clock position before reinstalling chain and tensioner and guides?
Yes, you can rotate the shafts individually to position the shafts where they need to go. But be aware this is an interference engine, you should only rotate the shaft back to where it started before it rotated.
What about the gasket covers?
Should I replace the phasers so I can have all new gears to go with the new chain
New phasers would be ideal. It will only extend the life of the new timing chain/system.
Hello,
I have a 2007 Lincoln Mkz. My ford manual said the torque process for cam phaser bolts. Have a different step 3 and 4. Step 1- torque to 30ft.
Step 2- loosen 1 turn
Step 3- torque 89in lb
Step 4- tighten 180 degree.
Please help what should I do, if I tighten my bolts any tighter I feel they may snap
Correction *
Step 4 - tighten 90 degrees, my mistake
I took the camshafts out to remove the heads. Now when I put the cams back in the heads how do I know where to clock them up to put the phasers on?
Mount the phaser and turn the cam until the timing mark is at 11:30 position for the right bank and 12:30 for the left bank. Just make sure you rotate the crank ccw shaft so the pin moves from the 12:00 position to the 10:00 position. This will lower all pistons to allow room for the valves. When ready, move the crank back to TDC.
I just did my waterpump and timing chain but I noticed the right secondary tensioner never sprung out does it need oil pressure to actuate that tensionerr?
Please watch the secondary tensioner explanation starting at 5:04 of this video. The tensioners must be manually activated after the secondary chains are installed. Compress them down completely and release.
In your opinion, which version of the 3.5L Duratec do you think is the most reliable and longest lasting, easiest to work on? Im looking for a Ford AWD/4 Wheel Drive vehicle that has one. Thank you, if you can help because i would like to get a vehicle with this motor, but i hesitate due to the waterpump inside issues...
Stick with fwd to much added cost if it fails. Mine went out at 180k did the pump and works great
@@ChrisB-cx6td 180k miles its pretty darn good bro. Theres pumps that go out at 100k miles. Did you ever did coolant changes?
@@rhurtadorh32 Always knew about the design flaw. Yes always keep up with maintence . However rather have an external water pump .
@@ChrisB-cx6td like i said your pump lasted quiet a bit. My explorer currently has 73k miles and just about a month ago i took it to ford to do a coolant flush and added the new coolant the yellowish color
@@rhurtadorh32 Just be ready when the time comes to replace the water pump last Ford 3.5 vehicle I buy.
To much hassle and cost involved other than you replacing it. Here is the nighmare
With a 70k mile Ford Explorer that pump failed !
ruclips.net/video/83EA9SOeq5c/видео.html
I took the camshafts out to remove the heads. Now when I put the cams back in how do I know where to clock them up before I tighten the caps up? If I dont have the cams clocked up right, I’ll kiss a valve on top of a piston head
You will want to reference the camshaft phasers. Look at where the indexing dowels of the phasers will align to the features of the camshafts, and locate the cams so the timing marks of the phasers will be close.
Hi I have followed all the steps in video but I have 0 pressure in all 6 spark plugs. Any idea why would that be. I am working on 2011 F150 3,5. Thank You
Did you have a failure before replacing the components? If you do not have compression, the engine is either out of time or you have bent/damaged valves.
Your timing marks don't line up on both cam phasers, only one, is that a problem???
My water pump went out for the 2nd time and this time the timing change broke? Is the 3.7 an interference engine? I have the parts I need to do the repair, but can't find any information on whether or not the engine may be damaged.
Yes, this engine is an interference engine.
Get a new used motor or fix and sale . done with these idiotic designs at Ford / not only this motor . 4.0 ford has reverse timing chains as an example. To much time and silly expense for a water pump. Had mine done at 180k for about $500 with out the timing kit according to mechanic didnt require it . overall works fine revs awesome. Plan to get rid of it or leave as a spare car.need to remove heads might of gotten lucky . but on ebay or lkq you find assemblies for about a 1k
@cloyes01 Hi ! I checked my timing the camshafts are on 11 and 1 but the crank is at 4:30 or about 125-130 degrees can I take off the chain and turn back the crankshaft a notch as it looks like I skipped a tooth?
You can, but make sure you are referencing the number of links between the sprocket marks, not just the static locations of the shafts. The chain sets the timing in this engine. In a new install you align the marked chain links, if the engine has rotated you need to count the number of links between the sprocket marks to ensure the engine is properly timed.
How good is this kit? Whats the warranty on it?
Our kits have a lifetime warranty. Just make sure to buy the kit through a reputable vendor who will honor the warranty. We sell to all the major parts stores.
I have put my timing chain on twice and both times I rotated it several times and all 3 dots line up at 11,1,and 4 position but the colored links seam to be off by one link is this normal
Yes, the marked chain links and timing marks will only perfectly align when first installed. Once the engine is rotated, the marked chain links can no longer be used. It will all realign again, but it may take over 100 rotations for that to occur.
Do not use a torx t55. It's a square drive rt11. T55 might work but is very loose and will probably strip out at over 100ft/lbs.
What size wrench did he use to move the cam?
Did you figure that out? Looks like it says 1-1/16 or 2-1/16. At about 7:27
Do I rotate the engine clockwise or counter clockwise?? Or does it matter..
You typically want to rotate an engine clockwise, but while setting the timing, counterclockwise rotations to get the shafts to align will not hurt anything.
Once I get to the point of lining the timing marks to 11, 1, and 4, if the are off by 1 hour hand, that is they are currently at 10, 2, and 5, how can I turn the crank since the balancer is pulled?
You can slide the balancer back on and turn it by hand, or if you can access the flex plate on the back of the engine you can use it to rotate. Just know that the actual shaft positions don't really matter. The chain sets the timing, so as long as all 3 marked links are aligned to the proper sprocket timing marks you are in time.
@@Cloyes01 thank you for the reply. While lining up the new chain the left side slid some, putting my timing dot on the left side at about 1 o'clock. When I try to use a wrench to put it back to 11 while holding the cam hex, the cam doesn't want to stay and springs back to 1 o'clock. Any suggestions. Thanks
@@ericgonzalez9217 You will either need to hold the cam while aligning the chain (best if you have another person to help), or you can try to move the other head/camshaft and crankshaft slightly in order to align with your left cam when it is in a resting position.
I bought a 2010 lincoln with the 3.7 in it and person I bought it from attempted to do the timing so timing chain is off how do I make sure everything is where it's supposed to be to do the timing. I will be buying a cloyes timing kit
Use the sprocket timing marks as your reference. Once you get the cover off, rotate the engine by hand until you get the 3 primary chain sprocket marks to align as close as possible to the positions we show in the video. 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock on the cam sprockets and about 4 o'clock on the crank. Once you get the shafts as close as possible, take the chain off.
They actually took the timing chain off before they aligned the timing marks I need to know what to do to get them aligned right so I can put new timing kit on
@@kevinwaterman3006 I would recommend pulling the spark plugs out and getting an idea of where the pistons are in each cylinder. You need to find a spot where all the pistons are down in the holes at least a little bit. You might need to rotate the crankshaft slightly one way or the other, just turn slowly and do not force anything. Once you find a good spot where there are no pistons at TDC, then you can rotate your cams around where they need to be. Get the cams close, and position them where they are at rest, meaning where you feel there is no valve spring pressure trying to move them. Then you can freely rotate the crank so the mark is at that 4 o'clock position. Just take your time and slowly move the shafts where they need to be for the chain to align properly.
I have a 2007 edge 3.5L with 280k on it. Water pump failed and I decided to replace primary and secondary chains and guides. Using Cloyes 9-4226S timing chain kit, one of the primary chain guides has been redesigned. The original bolt for chain guide is to short and the kit doesn’t come with a new bolt. Has anyone had this issue? Contacted Cloyes and they said use a 6mm x 60mm grade 5 bolt, but they are hard to come by??? I don’t want to use the old chain guide as it is worn.
We followed the updated Ford design on that right-inner primary guide. Newer models had that guide installed from the factory. The bolts are Ford part# W716322-S437, or any 6mm x 60mm bolt will work. We will soon be including these bolts in the kit, we just got them developed. Sorry for the inconvenience.
My 3.7l with the external waterpump has 60k on it and it’s starting to sound rattly. Should i be concerned?
If you are certain the rattle noise is coming from the timing area then you do have reason for concern. 60k miles is definitely premature for timing system issues, but a timing system rattle will not just go away.
I have a question. I am doing timing chain on a 3.7 does piston number one needs to be up cause the timing chain is jumped over. Before taking apart, I cannot get the marks to line up.
When you position the crankshaft sprocket mark at 4 o'clock you are putting the cylinders in the correct position for timing. If the marks will not all position correctly at the same time, focus on getting the crank at 4 with the camshafts as close as possible before you teardown.
OK, thanks for explaining
11 o’clock 1 o’clock and 4 o’clock is all I need to line up to replace timing chain? The colored links don’t mean squat?
The marked chain links are the most important thing to pay attention to. They must be aligned to the sprocket marks for the engine to be in time. The positions of the sprocket timing marks (11, 1, & 4 o'clock) are just the recommended starting positions that will help the chain installation process.