Notes: Replacement of the crankshaft pulley bolt is a recommended when doing this job! The torque specs listed in this video should be double checked by other sources to verify everything is correct. Chapters: 1:23 - WORK BEGINS 3:24 - FUEL LINE DISCONNECT 4:10 - AIR INTAKE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL 5:02 - UNPLUGGING ENGINE WIRE HARNESS 6:00 - COIL PACKS REMOVAL 6:26 - VALVE COVERS REMOVAL 8:20 - SERPENTINE BELT REMOVAL 9:10 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL 10:18 - RIGHT ENGINE MOUNT REMOVAL 11:41 - TIMING CHAIN COVER REMOVAL 16:54 - TIMING CHAIN LOOSEN/REMOVAL 22:24 - WATER PUMP REMOVAL 23:56 - NEW WATER PUMP INSTALL 25:52 - TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ADJUST & INSTALL 27:45 - CRANKSHAFT "FRONT MAIN" SEAL REPLACEMENT 29:03 - LUBRICATE INTERNAL ENGINE PARTS 29:27 - APPLY GASKET MAKER FOR TIMING CHAIN COVER INSTALL 31:53 - RIGHT ENGINE MOUNT INSTALL 32:36- CRANKSHAFT SHAFT PULLEY INSTALL 33:09 - SERPENTINE BELT INSTALL 33:39 - VALVE COVERS INSTALL 34:08 - SPARK PLUGS REPLACEMENT 38:42 - ADDING OIL & COOLANT FLUIDS 39:01 - STARTING THE VEHICLE FOR A TEST
Best video on RUclips for this water pump change out. While the job is fairly extensive, your video shows it's doable at home. How many hours did this take less the sealant wait time? Side note, Ford should be ashamed of this design.
Hi, i have question. They change my water pump on my explorer 2012 v6 . When i have it ,it starts to leak oil,why is this? I return the vehicle to the mechanic stay with my car over 2 weeks and he said it was fixed, but my car still leaking oil, i don't want to go back to him please can you answer my question. Where are you located? I don't trust mechanics
@@DirtyCoastCajun These automoible companies know exactly what they're doing when they design these vehicles, these designs are for ridiculous labor cost prices💰💰💰; as well as prevention from self service and/or your local trustworthy mechanics. The more difficult the design, the more people depend on services from their (EXTREMELY OVER PRICED) dealerships. GREED🤑🤑🤑 is why they do it. 😒😒😒
Just finished my son's 2013 Ford Edge this weekend. Took 14 hours over 4 days. Took to 2 places for quotes: $4500. So, bought the parts and a few tools that I didn't have (I was an auto tech in the late 70's, so had most tools). $303 total. I know you've gotten some very well deserved "thank you's" from many folks, and they are well deserved. I could afford to drop the car off, wince at writing a $4500 check, and go about my day; but a lot of folks can't. I chose to do the work myself just for the principle of it. (ok, and the satisfaction) But I'm amazed at how you both did the job, and recorded each part to help so many other folks. You didn't have to do this, but I (and many many others) are very grateful for you being so unselfish with your time. Thanks again!
My first cost estimate for replacing the water pump only included prices of the pump and gaskets. But now... wow! I am so glad I watched this video ahead of time. I will be buying spark plugs, gasket maker, plastic ties, brake cleaner, pulley puller ... The little things obviously matter. For me, the cost of a mechanic would have exceeded the vehicles value. So I am willing to spend two relaxed weeks fixing my car. Thank you so much for making this video.
One of the best, if not the best 3.5 Liter water pump replacement videos out there. Hats off to you sir, if you're not an engineer, you sure think like one. Thanks
What a STUPID genius water 💦 pump location design, During design process, No one doubted this stupidity? No one here ever complains this stupidity, stupid customers too 😂🎉😢😮😅😊
I just bought a 2014 Police Interceptor Sedan 3.7L with 103K miles and after driving it for only 2 weeks the water pump started leaking. I'm a female but I've always done most of my own mechanic work (i.e. alternators, fuel pumps, water pumps, brakes, oil changes, etc.) but I've also always had Dodge vehicles so the work was never too difficult. This is the first Ford I've had to work on and I was absolutely flabbergasted when I discovered where the water pump is located on this thing. The way Ford built this is absolutely ridiculous! But I REFUSE to pay someone thousands of dollars to have a couple hundred dollars worth of parts replaced, and after watching your video, I'm confident I can do it myself (I'll have my husband help out too when needed of course lol) Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, you're awesome! I've already watched it 3 times and I know I'll be watching it several more times while doing the work. I did notice someone in the comments said there are a couple of extra bolts/steps that are not mentioned in the video for the 3.7L engine so thank you to them too for the heads up, I'll be sure to look out for that.
Ford should be ashamed of themselves for the amount of work it takes just to reach this thing. Excellent video. I have a Taurus and I’m pretty sure my pump is going out … this video is immeasurably helpful.
As a guy who lives paycheck to paycheck and who's wife needs the car badly I agree ...I just put everything together last night around 10 pm ..been putting evenings into it lol..if it don't work it's going to the scrap yard 😅
Tough to imagine what a Ford Engineer was thinking putting a part that commonly needs to be replaced internal to the engine, turning a 1 hour job into 13-14 hours. And the design flaw is a big double-whammy, since the water pump can also fail at any time, usually dumping coolant in the engine and ruining the engine before people know what happened. Spend $3-4K (or parts plus ~14 hours work) about every 80k miles just to be proactive in the hopes of not getting a bigger bill for an engine replacement.
Is it leaking? What are signs that makes you think it's going bad? Just bought a 2014 Taurus police interceptor with 130k miles. Thinking about doing this before anything
PLEASE READ IF YOU ARE PLANNIG TO DO THIS WORK!! First of all thank you for this AWESOME video, it helped me tremendously to change my water pump on my 2016 Ford Explorer.(100,000 miles) Having said that, please read below if you are planning to attack this massive job. 1) Watch this video and write down all the parts and tools that you will need. 2) Do not raise the vehicle up first. By doing that, you are lifting the front end and it makes it harder for you to work on the top of the engine. Take the valve covers off and then raise the vehicle up. 3) The hook set he is mentioning in the video is absolutely necessary! Without them, I couldn't have taken the fuel injector connections off. They are tricky. 4) Mark the timing chain just like he does and take tons of pictures. I used camshaft lockers and when I put every thing back together, I realized the markings were off on the intake side by one tooth. With the lockers in place, I was able to use a wrench to move it barely and they ended up lining correctly. 5) When spraying the brake cleaner make sure you don't erase the markings on the chain or the camshafts. (VERY IMPORTANT). 5) When I put my timing cover back I failed to put silicone on the top, where the 6 bolts are. Very easy to miss if you are applying the silicone to the rest of the timing cover from the bottom. 6) This is my opinion, but since you are doing this job you should definitely consider changing valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket and spark plugs. They are all inexpensive and worth the effort. 7) This is a big job. I work on my cars often and it still took me 1.5 days to finish and test it. (I took my time to make sure I didn't miss anything). Again a HUGE thanks to whoever made this video. Ford quoted me $2,500 for this repair, I was able to fix it with about $400. (I already have most of the tools) If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to reach out to me.
Wow, thanks for your update as well,, sure helps alot since i am about to tackle this on my own. i been quoted the same as you , and nothing under 1400,, but i have some questions for you, 1. when attaching the water pump, i didnt see him apply any silicon or gasket maker on it, do you have to do this or not? 2. my issues with the job is the marks with the timing. i have the tools for the camshaft holder, i assume marking the chain is only to prevent the timing from getting out of whack, since the car before the water pump failure should be in perfect timing , correct ?
@@benfernkay8974 do NOT use sealer on the pump gasket…ever. If you look closely at the chain the links are marked for proper alignment. I would urge you to use a ford pump and a new chain, you don’t want to do this job twice. 22 year ford tech , I’ve replaced many of these. If you have questions, I would be happy to answer.
@@harrybalsonya5619 thanks, can you explain about the timing, i thought the car is in proper timing as it is,, so using the tool to lock in the camshaft is necessary.. but how do i know for sure its in timing and why would the timing be off just by replacing the water pump....?
@@benfernkay8974 the tools used are cam holders so the phaser bolts can be torqued to spec. The timing is achieved by the colored chain links and dots on the gears. The factory chain has colored links as well but they can be hard to see with age. I would recommend a new primary chain and tensioner when changing the water pump, it only makes sense to. As for timing, the chain will have 4 colored links. The two links next to each other go on the crank gear the single links will fall on the cam gears. Once the cover is off put the crank bolt back in and rotate the engine CLOCKWISE until the crank key is at 12:00, you should be able to see the cam gear dots.mid not rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees until you get the cam gear dots in the up position and the crank is at 12:00. At this point route the chain over the gears placing the colored single links on the cam gear dots and the double links straddle the crank dot which will be at about the 5:00 o’clock position. Put your guide and tensioners on and verify the links and dots line up. You may have to move a gear to get the marks to line up, this is fine as long as they line up. Good luck. Edit… You have to take off the chain to replace the pump, there’s no tool to hold the crank so you’ll have to reset the timing.
@@harrybalsonya5619 Unfortunately I found it difficult to remove the water pump, and ended up scratching the block where the water pump gasket seals, so I applied silicone, is it going to be ok?
Hello, Did you the timing chains also? If so did you reuse the cam phaser bolts or buy new ones. I cant find anywhere to buy them online. I only finf 2nd gen 3.5l bolts. Pretty sure they're different. Thanks in advance.
Just finished this job on my wife's explorer and it was legit the biggest car job I've tackled on my own, ever. I would never have even thought to do this job myself had I not seen this video. It was so thorough, and like everyone has said before, an amazing guide that you didn't have to do, but did and have probably saved people thousands and thousands of dollars. Some notes on this job in MY case, first I was unprepared for how long cleaning old silicone gasket from the main engine cover was gonna take. What took less than 30 seconds to talk about in the video, took a good 2 hours or more in real time, lol. Scraping and scrubbing all that old gasket off was a JOB in itself. But it's so worth the time and effort and should NOT be rushed, because I can't imagine having to take everything OFF again because the new gasket doesn't get a good seal, so be a perfectionist about it. Second, even with the timing chain guides taken off, getting the teeth perfect on your marks was still hard. I left the right(front of vehicle) cam/chain in place like the video, and once you get the chain under the new water pump, bringing it up and over the left cam was super difficult. It was like in BETWEEN two teeth of the cam gear thingy and I had to pull SUPER hard on the chain to get it back on the exact gear. Same with the bottom. My chain was good, but I did replace both lower guides and tensioner and recommend the same if you're in there anyway. My vehicle had 120k miles on it, so I replaced all spark plugs, and all valve cover gaskets and deals, which came all in a kit. This job took me 5 days, but I got some late starts due to regular work stuff. I'd block off at least 3 days if you're a Regular Joe like me, doing this in your driveway, especially since the gasket takes 24 hours to set anyway before got put new oil in, depending which you use. Another note, the fuel injector wire clips things are super stubborn, even with a pick set. One of the red tabs even cracked and a piece broke off trying to pry it up in the unlock position, so be careful and don't be too rough with those. Thankfully the clip itself was fine and snapped back on, I'll just have to use a screwdriver or something to push down on the black piece of plastic inside of it if I ever have to remove it again, which I PRAY I don't, lol. Overall, a very rewarding job once it's all done, I dropped about 500 in parts, and then obviously new oil, oil filter, coolant, air filter, etc adds up quick. But still, saved thousands from what I was quoted at multiple places. It's a 14 hr job and even at modest hourly mechanic rates, which can be 100 and up per hour, plus parts, it was gonna be at least a 2400.00 job from the reputable mechanic shops I got qoutes from, and that didn't include all the new parts I decided to replace along the way. Again, thanks for the video!!
I have been contemplating preemptively replacing water pump on my son's '13 edge with 130k miles. Was worriabout the engine support and you have answered that. I appreciate the note of bolt and torque specs as well as explicit instructions on the marking and locking cams. I've done a fair amount of timing work on 3v 5.4l so i'm not afraid of chains. This is a Gold Medal DIY! Thank You for your time and patience❤
This may be the best DIY instructional video I have ever seen. Clear, concise instructions. Great production. Good narration. Great "work-arounds" for potential issues that may be encountered.
FIRST THINGS FIRST - You sir, are PHENOMENAL! Like everyone before me has stated, this is the best instructional video I have ever watched. I always do my own repairs on my vehicles and will be replacing my water pump soon and this video was produced exactly how I wish every repair video would be made. You deserve all of the accolades that have been bestowed upon you in this comment section and I just wanted to add to that very long list! Thank you for this video and your efforts to help others in my same situation.
I was able to use your video to replace the water pump on my 2015 Ford Taurus. The repair went so well and the car is running brilliantly once again. Your video is comprehensive and direct. I can't thank you enough for creating this video and posting it for all
Hands down THE BEST Ford water pump tutorial on RUclips. If DIY were the army, this dude would be a general. Every one of us owes you a beer! You have some serious skills at clearly and thoroughly explaining everything. I'm biting my nails patiently waiting for the day that my number finally comes up and my Explorer gets a visit from the weeping fairy. I've watched this video and others multiple times over so that when the inevitable happens, I can break down a 3.5 in my sleep.
Thank you for your time and dedication to making this video. I started on a Tuesday morning and finished on a Saturday afternoon. Throughout this endeavor I was scared especially when it came to the timing chain. I had my ups and downs and believe me, I wanted to quit. Somehow I continued to battle. I was in disbelief that my car started right up. Thank you again for everything. I could not have done it without your instruction. Moreover, I saved alot of money. Thank you sir.
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One Do the cam sensors have to be reprogrammed after this....have a 2017 that is running rough after reassembly...timing is not off, but I'm getting a cam sensor.code that wasn't there before
🙏🙏 BIG THANKS 🙏🙏 I just swapped the water pump out on a 2015 Ford Explorer 3.5 I never could have completed the task without this video. I’m just a part swapper, by no means am I considered a mechanic. After I watched the video a couple times, I felt confident that I could take this project on. Once again, couldn’t have done this on my own. Thanks for a very thorough video.
Absolutely the finest DIY video I have seen dealing with the Ford V6 3.5-3.7 engine water pump. I have a 2016 Ford Flex with 113,000 miles, that I will trust my independent local mechanic to undertake this work preemptively in the coming months (no evidence to date of water pump failure). That said, I cannot thank you enough for sharing this level of detail and superb video work (you're the first I've seen who so successfully does overlay graphic circling of the EXACT bolt/item you are speaking about). It makes it all the better for me as I'll know exactly what to ask the mechanic about, regarding their process. Much continued success to you!
The word is that a coolant change arounf 60,000 to 70,000 miles prevent deteriation of tge waterpump sesl that causes the leak. Sone owners are at 150,000 miles no isdlsues because they changed the coolant. Others need to change water pump at 100,000 miles or sooner..
This video is absolutely invaluable to anyone attempting to replace their Ford Duratec water pump. I wouldn’t have been able to even begin to do it without this video. I must say however that I have the 2013 3.7 L and there were several additional steps that weren’t covered in the video. The 3.7 has an additional stretch belt that must be removed from the main pulley, and three bolts in the side of the cam cover that must be removed to get the cam cover off, and they are near impossible to get to. The entire process was arduous and very time consuming, and throughout it I wasn’t sure if I could actually complete it. My timing chain had a little slack so I ended up replacing the chain as well. The thing that made me the most nervous was getting it all done and having the gasket maker leak. There were 2 little nuts at the back of the rear valve cover on the studs of the valve cover bolts that held brackets for an AC line, and those nuts were frozen and impossible to get to and get off, and I ended up having to grind them off. I damaged one of the valve covers in the process and had to replace it. Also be very careful torquing down the valve cover bolts. At 15 foot pounds I broke two of them off in the block. I will have to go back and drill those out but for now the cover is not leaking. This whole procedure is not for the faint of heart if you are a novice like me and not a seasoned mechanic. This is by far the best video for replacing a duratec water pump. I can see now why it’s so expensive to replace one of these, and why there is a class action lawsuit against Ford.
First of all, this was a great video (to a point), and it helped me immensely when changing out the water pump in my wife's 2016 Explorer. I never thought I could pull something like this off, but with my son's help, we were able to get it done in a few days. I was really surprised that there were no leaks or trouble codes that came up after starting it. However, after about 4 months without incident, we were driving home on Christmas eve, and noticed that the check engine light had suddenly come on. Also, there seemed to be a loss of power while driving down the highway. Then the engine just shut down completely, and wouldn't start again. After having it towed to a dealership, come to find out that the engine was done for. And it was all due to the crankshaft pulley being loose, and subsequently led to the timing chain failing, and busted valves, etc. The technician who worked on it told me the bolt for the pulley is a one time use bolt, meaning you have to use a new one each time. In the video, you used the same bolt, which is what I did. Now my car is pretty much worthless. (Unless I want to pay over $7000 for a new engine) For all you folks thinking about tackling this big job, make sure you use a new bolt for the crank pulley!!! I can't begin to tell you how angry I am over this. I did everything right according to this video, and now my engine is ruined.
This video was perfectly done was able to purchase all the tools from harbor freight starting from scratch. Using this video i did all the work myself. Even ended up replacing all my motor mounts. First time ever working on a car this in depth and it all went smoothly...for anyone thinking of DYI this job dont be intimidated Worst part of the entire job was waiting for all the parts to come in. With tools and parts My costs was still under $1000 and over time they will pay for themselves. Thanks again Keep making a great video!!
What a STUPID genius water 💦 pump location design, A basically small water pump replacement job turned to be a huge project 😂😢😢 During design process, No one doubted this stupidity? No one here ever complains this stupidity, stupid customers too 😂🎉😢😮😅😊
Similar to all the posts, looking at quotes was gut wrenching. 2018 limited has 166k and it went out. Bought the cam locks and HB puller, 3gals of mix, 6qts high mileage oil, timing chain, water pump, right stuff gasket maker and 2x of brake cleaner.. $847. Got the parts from ford..thank you for this detailed vid!! Life saving, and $$ saving!
I've been working on my various cars for around 30 years. I can say that my skill level is intermediate. I have two Taurus's with the 3.5 L engine. This job scares me. But, your video gave me the confidence to do this job. Thank you very much!
This video gave me the confidence to tackle this job and it took my son and me three full days. We used only hand tools except for a 1/2-Inch air impact wrench to reinstall the cam pully. The air impact was not strong enough to loosen the bolt so we used a 1/2' breaker bar and some leg power. The video has a lot of detailed information on torquing specs but we found it was impossible to get a torque wrench on most of the bolts so we did the best we could. There is very little space between the frame and the engine cover. The video is well done and the lighting is good giving the impression of more space than there actually is. Unless you have some extra long tools we needed cheater bars for our ratchets and we used boxed end wrenches to cheat when a ratchet would not fit. Breaking the bolts free on the engine cover took a couple of hours. Reassembly was just as challenging due to the tight space and we had to estimate the torque on most of the bolts where our 3/8" drive torque wrench did not fit. It worries me a bit but we had no choice at that point and tightened the bolts by hand the best we could. The job was completed successfully and we have no leaks. Getting the air out of the cooling system proved to be a time-consuming task but parking uphill on a steep slope to get the heater core below the reservoir finally got the air out and we have heat from the vents. It was a tough job but I'm retired with a lot of free time so I made money doing it myself. Quotes I received to do this job ranged from $3800-$4500. I purchased all of the parts and supplies plus some tools including parts for a complete brake job for $1100. However, after doing it myself I can see where shops would have to charge a lot to do it and warranty the work. The pump I removed was not worn out, the bearings were smooth and the bearing seals were fine. The problem was the o-ring seal was leaking, hard to believe all of that work was due to a thin rubber o-ring!
I have a 2014 Taurus with 3.5 and was set intially on having to take it to someone. Thank YOU so much for this walk through, as I'm very mechanically inclined, but have major arthritis and wasn't sure I wanted to do this or not. After diagnosis and the subsequent leaking from near the AC I decided the issue was the water pump. After watching this video my confidence was majorly increased in that it was something I could do and VOILA! I was, with the help of my brother, able to get it done. We had to buy/rent several parts and was going to change the timing chain with the set but decided not to as my 138k parts still appeared in great shape, i.e. very little wear on the guides etc.. I will say this took us 4 days to complete about 6-7 hours each day as I wanted to be very meticulous with each phase and watched this video through the whole thing.. I feel very accomplished completing this job with your guidance and I can't thank you enough for this VIDEO and the very thorough detail you put into it. In the end with everything I spent about $400 on it all and now have a bunch of specific tools I can continue to use in the future if the need arises. You saved me thousands at a dealer and can't say enough.. Thank you VERY MUCH!
Thank you so much for the excellent tutorial. I completed a replacement of the water pump and spark plugs on my wife’s 2016 Explorer this weekend. Took me about 17 hours of work time and it worked perfectly. By the way, our water pump failed at just over 100K miles. I’m now a loyal subscriber.
I can't thank you enough for this excellent step by step repair. Just completed this on my 2013 Explorer with 188k miles. The most difficult items for me were; removal of the fuel line, removal of the balancer bolt, and the general small working area to remove and replace the 26 cover bolts. Much appreciated.
Probably the longest and most tedious part was cleaning the old RTV silicone off the timing cover and off of the engine mounting surfaces. I found that the plastic razor blades work amazing. It leaves no gouges in the metal when scraping. Also adding the new RTV silicone to the engine surface was very hard due to the limited work space. All in all I probably spent atleast 18 hours working on it over the course of 4 days. Also the crankshaft pulley bolt needs to be replaced and do not reuse it. they are torque to yield only - one time use. A new bolt w/ washer cost 8 bucks at Ford. Additionally Ford has also changed the coolant type to a Yellow. The red fluid has been discontinued and needs to be flushed out as it has been known to cause corrosion issues.
I was 2 hours away from buying a 2013 EDGE and found this incredibly well done video and decided on NOPE this should be the standard by which all youtube mechanical repairs are measured ...bravo amigo you da man
My first water pump went out at 120,000 milesI had a mechanic shop replace it, they didn't use a fomoco pump and it went out again at around 47,000 mile mark. When I let them know they told me it was 2,000 miles outside their warranty and they would need $2,000 to replace it again. I said not this time, I'll do it my self. Thanks soo much for the video!! I was a jet engine specialist in the military I should have did it myself the first time!
Looks like to be in the safe side it's good idea to replaced every 40k miles after the first replacement its very ridiculous the damage to the motor when the water pump fails
What a STUPID genius water 💦 pump location design, A basically small water pump replacement job turned to be a huge project 😂😢😢 During design process, No one doubted this stupidity? No one here ever complains this stupidity, stupid customers too 😂🎉😢😮😅😊
Maybe tell us specifically what brand you DID use because not all of us are impressed with the mileage we got from the oem pump, especially for the additional cost
Top shelf DIY video of a very complex repair. The best video and narration I have seen so far on youtube. I am retired mechanic of 40 years and all I can say is you should be producing these videos for a living.
GREAT video. My friend and I, 2 Women, completed this job in 4 1/2 days during a 106* heat wave. We took extra care trying to save the clips. This meant extra time. As we removed parts, we took pictures and videos. We cataloged the parts as we removed them, keeping screws and bolts together with parts. We replaced the water pump, crankshaft oil seal, serpentine belt, left and right lower timing belt guides, tensioner, spark plugs and the valve cover gaskets. We had a few blips, but, we figured them out. Neither one of us are mechanics, but, we know which end of a screwdriver to use. Estimate from dealership $3,000. Estimate from mechanic $4,000. Cost of parts $400. There were little things in the video that weren’t the same as my 2014 Explorer, nothing we couldn’t figure out. Ex: the engine mount bolts need to be removed to get to 2 bolts on timing chain cover. We used M8 female torx socket to remove them. When putting a cloth over the camshaft, take care that the cloth doesn’t get caught in the camshaft when removing the pulley, the pulley may rotate while attempting to remove it. Filled with fluids and so far no leaks. She’s purring like a kitten. Could you do a video about how to change a blown head gasket on a 1970 F250😊 Thank you, thank you, thank you
One more major “Thank you!” to add to the growing comment list. My daughter and I followed you step-by-step and it was so thorough and informative! I can turn a wrench, but this was intense. Thanks!
i've done alot of dyi auto projects. never thought i would ever mess with the timing chain but this detailed video gave me the confidence to do it. and for that i thank you. i would like to zelle you. some $ in appreciation for your time to make this available for everyone. thank you you saved me a lot of money
I am a Master Mech ( have done this job about 16 times) and this is a very good video I have shared with my other tech friends, who say the same , "Very detailed "
In the chance you don’t mind responding, I did this work but am having timing issues Bank 2 cams end up out of alignment..intake/exhaust weren’t parallel when I reopened the cover I realigned them but am unsure if it’s a bad phaser that is sticking? Any opinion or help you can offer if you’ve seen it? Just bought a oem main timing chain in case it’s stretched and will be trying that next but would much prefer to just do the phaser if that’s the issue causing the misalignment/mistime
@javierramos6722 hello did you figure out the issue. My vehicle starts but only stays running few seconds and sounds muffled and can smell gas. Im pretty sure the top camshafts being not aligned with bottom shafts has to be the issue. I don't know if I can somehow turn that cam to align or what.
@@overdrive020 unfortunately I haven’t been back to it, spent time purchasing another car needed in family and other issues so haven’t worked on it…I’ve come to the conclusion though, unless I hear someone’s opinion, that the cams are unaligning because of the main timing chain jumping. When the main chain goes, I think the cams unalign from one another as well as the crank. In my case I will align the cams so that the locking tool fits over them, then replace the main chain with the new oem one (it has marked links and the marks are on phasers and crank to line them up) and test it from there and pray it doesn’t jump again The main chain should have 42 links between the two cam marks, 50links between the bank 2 cam mark and the crank mark, and then 37 between crank and bank 1 cam mark (I hope that helps)
Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to post this exceptionally detailed video. Ford dealer quoted me $4100.00 for this repair, with almost $3600.00 in labor. With the help of your instructions I have sucessfully changed my water pump and I am back on the road with no issues thus far for around $400.00 in parts (new thermostat, pcv valve, and valve cover gaskets) and 4 days of labor. Thank you again for taking the time and sharing your expertise, much appreciated. I saved myself $3600.00!!!
IF you decide to remove the CAM Phasers MAKE SURE TO BUY THE CAMSHAFT LOCK TOOL AND USE TP55 TORX PLUS BIT (Not the same as regular T55). The Cloyes timing kit comes with an installation video on Rock Auto and they suggest the cam lock tool isn’t necessary, so I attempted my repair without it and regretted it (added a full day of work). This is because the effort to remove the phasers is significantly higher than the installation torque. A regular T55 will strip the bolts and it took 3 people to hold the cam shaft and break the bolts loose with a metal pipe. The cam locking tool is also useful when reinstalling the crank pulley. Be careful not to over torque the crank pulley with an impact gun the pulley can over travel and bind the pulley. Also make sure the primary chain is on when you loosen or tighten the phaser sprockets. Great video if you replace all chains heed my warning about the cam lock tool and TP55 bit.
I am about to get a 3.5 Edge tomorrow, and I was very nervous thinking that the water pump will fail eventually and I'll have to dump a couple thousand dollars into repairs, so I even thought about walking away from this car. Having found this video - I am now confident that even if this happens - I will be able to take some time off work and repair it myself. Thanks a lot!
Great video on process for the waterpump replacement. Totally crazy that Ford designed an engine requiring this much work to repalce a waterpump. When my daughter told me the cost to do this on her Explorer I thought there had to be a mistake. Now I understand all that is involved. Thanks for taking the time to educate us on the process....
@sfssjonathan9150, where are you getting your price from, im talking about shop prices. I just finished mine. I spent 200$ on a new crank seal,oem pump, new fluid and plugs.
I am not a mechanic and know little to nothing about car repair. BUT, if I were forced to have to change my water pump by myself...this video would be my guide. You did a heck of a great job explaing all the details to successfully handling this job.
Thank you for this awesome video! You just save me $3k. These california prices are no joke. I really appreciate it. I've seen almost every video there is out there on this water pump and this is by far the best one. Now I feel confident enough to do it my self.
THE BEST VIDEO EVER. This is the first time I’ve ever left a comment for someone. I don’t have to do this job yet; however, I learned a lot. I just wanted to see what the video is about, but I could not stop watching until the end. Thank you Sir, you are amazing.
Thank you so much for this video. 2015 taurus 3.5 water pump leak. Was told NO by 2 diff shops, wouldnt even price it. Dealer was 5600 with timing components. I honestly, it really isnt all that bad. Easy? Nah. But with the video, i was able to complete in about 11 hours.. basically no special tools were needed other then a gear puller and the cam lock tool.. take your time and have patience is key. Lay everything out and stay organized... thanks again
I'll like to say thank you so much for the video. Took me about 4 days to complete in total. Im in the 24 hours drying time right now. But the hardest part of the whole job was the gasket n timing cover bolts. A Puddy knife was a big help. Also theres a hiddle bolt by the alternate which i almost missed. Also, Please buy channel locks! It will be nearly impossible to push that small chain tensioner back in place without one. Also buy a very small allen wrench or even a very thin nail! Because the tool they send you with your cam locks will be to big. I promise you will thank me later. Make sure you mark the chain good. When putting chain back on just pull from the water pump onto the back cam , because you will be off 1 tooth and wonder how to get it back on......... slowly watch the video and do the same hand placement as this guy. You will understand when you get to this part. Also when taking off the vavle covers go slow and dont yank on it or you will break something............... now for the pully. It was the most hardest thing ever. I had to use my own belt to fold it own itself like in other RUclips videos because i didn't have any other way to hold the pully still. A new belt was 25$. In my opinion it was well worth the price. The belt had cracked a little because of the pressure but worked after like 30 mins trying. Now putting the pully back on was kinda hard. But i had a big rubber mallet n a big socket n just went to town on it. Then i just started tapping at the sides to try to get the 2cm i needed for the bolt to go inside. Took another 15 mins just for that. I used a drill to pushed it in and tourqed it the best i could while holding it with my bear hands. You gotta be strong for this job. Overall this job will have you sore. Othere then that just mAKE SURE YOU TRIPPLE CHECK EVERY BOLT BEFORE GOING TO THE NEXT STEP. p.s there a small connector on the back of the vavle cover near the passenger side close to the firewall. Either use a pry tool to undo the clip or just break the lil peice off or use a knife to cut it. Overall do not yank on it. Also leave all your bolts with the item your taking off. The last thing you need to do is lose a bolt........... ALSO FOR THE BELT TENSIONER THERES ANOTHER PLACEMENT FOR THE RATCHET AT THE BOTTOM. USE THAT ONE INSTEAD OF THE ONE ON top NEAR THE AC LINE. Last thing. Unscrewed the bolt out of the cam after the chain is tighten back up with the camlocks still installed. You will thank me later
Just tackled this job over the weekend. By far the most difficult work I've had to do on a vehicle of mine. Your guide made every step very very clear. Thank you for this video!
This is the best step by step video I have ever seen on youtube! Bought a 2016 ford taurus at an auction for 1700 bucks. With about 400 bucks, a little sweat, blood and your great video, I was able to get it done correctly in just under 10 hours. Thank you so much for making this great video,!
I lost interest in doing this job 5 minutes into this video, but WOW! I was very interested in the whole video. Very informative, very detailed, and he made it look easy. Gone are the days of a simple water pump swap. looks like many hours here.
Thank you, Amazing video just finished the water pump in my wife's 2015 explorer sport with the 3.5 ecoboost, some bolts on the timing cover where in slightly different locations and of course all the extra intake hoses and vacuum lines but this got me threw with out a single hiccup! Took approx. 18 hrs by myself over 4 days.
I don't know how I stumbled on your video, but it was excellent. Attention to details, tips in between. My friend has a flex, I'm going to arm him now. Never new manufacturers designed internal water pumps, damn shame.
Excellent instructions for a person who has the skills and knows how to use the tools. It is not a tutorial for learning how to work on engines. I was able to replace the water pump and timing chain on my 2015 Ford Explorer. The hardest part for me was removing the injector connectors, I ended up removing only 2 to give me enough space to remove the valve covers. I had to lift the engine high enough to have the space for removing the timing chain cover. You need all kinds of socket lengths and ratchets to open the timing chain cover, not to mention how tight was the crankshaft pully. Be very careful when removing the wires and parts not to damage anything, so at the end you can put them back together and start the car with success. Watch this video a few times before starting the job, prepare all parts and tools so you don't have to go back and forth to dealer and hardware stores.
Good afternoon, I want to take the time and thank you for your video. I had todo the water pump on my 2015 explorer limited. It would have cost me around $4-6k in my area to have this done. I did have to watch a couple other videos because I also changed the timing phasers while I was in there, and I changed all 3 chains. Be the meat and potato’s of the install all came from your video. I wouldn’t have been able todo the job without it. That being said I am an airline mechanic, even for me the task was challenging. But your attention to detail and listing the torque values made it possible to do the job right. Again thank you , thank you thank you! So very much. You are appreciated sir. Total cost for parts on my end was around 1200.00 for everything. Took me around 4 days because I had to wait on parts. But we got it done. Thanks
I have to say this is the most comprehensive DIY video I've even seen. I'm glad becuase this was a horrible job. I recently changed the water pump on the Grand Marquis which took about 30 minutes! I couldn't believe what it took to get to this one. Thanks CLS!
I just bought a used 2009 Ford Edge limited awd with check engine light. I always or mostly fix my cars with help from RUclips. I have to say I have never seen such a detailed video. This video should be used as an example on How To. Great job Sir, bundle of thanks.
Just finished my wife's 2014 Ford Explorer. This video was the best. Took my time with watching this for all the things I would encounter. Disassembly was a little long for the first time. You want to make sure you know where everything goes back in place. The only part I needed to replace was the water pump. Everything else was in great shape. After about 16 hours its back together and running. My cost was $383.00. That was cleaners a few tools and the pump, Ultra Black gasket sealer. I had Quotes for $4,100.00 and $3,900.00 . Great video please share his info with others who need to tackle this type of work. Thank You C.L.S. ALL-IN-ONE !
Great video. I own a shop and in the last two weeks I've had a Ford edge, a Ford Taurus, and a Mazda CX-9 all come in needing this repair. For those with a Ford edge I would recommend evacuating the a/c system, removing the a/c compressor, removing the alternator, and disconnecting the power steering pump in order to install the cover... even then it will still be tight. This is a bear of a Job but slightly easier on the explorer due to the extra space. I would also replace the chains, crank sprocket, and guides.
What a STUPID genius water 💦 pump location design, A basically small water pump replacement job turned to be a huge project 😂😢😢 During design process, No one doubted this stupidity? No one here ever complains this stupidity, stupid customers too 😂🎉😢😮😅😊
Wow! Wow! Wow! That's the most thorough explanation and tutrorial on how to tackle this job! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I don't have the time, tools, space or patience to do this myself. But it does give me an appreciation of the service technicians that will do mine!!! My 2013 Ford Explorer has 150,000 miles. I plan to keep it going for another 50K-100K. I hate spending money on buying cars!!!
@@paramvirdeol386 okay and that leaks near the oil pan correct? Sorry for bugging ya but my wife's explorer is on 110k mileage range and wanted to get it done before problems arise
Thank you for making and posting this video! It saved me and others alot of $$$. Few things I want to point out that wasn't mention in the video: 1)To disconnect the injector connectors- push the red locking tab upward until it clicks. Push the inverted "C" tab inward below the locking tab and pull the connector at the same time. This is tricky 2) The timing chain links orientation as follow - link#1 align with left camshaft dot, link#50 align with right camshaft dot and the crankgear dot is align between link#86 and 87. This is important if you're reusing your old timing chain like I did. I used paint to mark the links. 3)After you set your camshaft marker to 11 and 1 o'clock, make sure to remove the crankgear bolt out. Turning it counterclockwise to remove after you installed your timing chain can make skip a tooth or two and that would all mess up your timing - code P0019. 4)This can done without the camshaft tool. Just make sure you set the timing mark to 11 and 1 o'clock and paint your links before you remove the chain. You can use T55 torx bit to turn the camshaft and make little adjustments if you have to.
My first cost estimate for replacing the water pump only included prices of the pump and gaskets. But now... wow! I am so glad I watched this video ahead of time. I will be buying spark plugs, gasket maker, plastic ties, brake cleaner, pulley puller ... The little things obviously matter. For me, the cost of a mechanic would have exceeded the vehicles value. So I am willing to spend two relaxed weeks fixing my car. Thank you so much for making this video.
This is a great video thank you for the detailed and timely laid out steps, my one recommendation to all those watching this be extremely careful and double-check the torque specifications on the valve cover bolts, at 15 ft lb of torque it snapped a bolt head right off. If you are unsure I would highly recommend hand tightening the bolts without over torquing.
ive watched your video like 20 times, so i can learn exactly what to do, then i went to do the work and try to video it to show others ,,, i dont know how you made the video and worked on the car at the same time, hahahah,,,,,, i did say before you did an excellent job,,,, its been hard for me to video it and do the work,,,,, the injectors and removing the cables has been so far so hard to do without breaking them, i actually applied a little bit of wd40,,and it worked
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One how many days did it take you to complete it, and were you alone? im alone and i am at the part to remove the timing cover,,, i might have asked you many times before this , but i am only unsecured with the timing issue,, i have the camshaft holders , but i saw my marks at this time at 12 pm and 2pm, the bottom one i am not sure yet, but if they are not a 11 and 1 pm as with yours, do i move the crankshaft from the bottom to get to those points, please help, thank you
On the Taurus, you will have to remove the fuel liner bracket and stuff it near the fender, drop the washer resivoir, and pull the ac line closer to the fender, this makes getting the cover out and in super easy
Not sure if you will see this, however I felt the need to say it.... Thank you so much. You saved me $2500!!! This job is not for the weak of heart if you are inexperienced like me. The video guys is legit. Many problems you will encounter that are not covered in the video. But it gets you close enough to get it done. Be slow be though and organized. Great video.
Before putting valve covers back on, ford recommends putting sealant on the left side of the engine, right after your video showing you razor scraping the old sealant off. Basically where the 'crack' is exposed on both surfaces and where the 2 pcs meet
Thank you for taking the time to record and post this video, very thorough and precise, I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and was ASE master certified, and this video was extremely helpful, especially with the tips for hidden fasteners. I just completed my 2016 Explorer water pump replacement, it took me two full days, but without you help it probably would have been 3 or 4 days. As many others have said, this is probably the best instructional video I have ever seen, many thanks to you sir, you are awesome!!!
Great video. Only thing I didn’t hear him say was. Before valve covers are installed put a dab of silicone where the timing cover meets the block on top of that seam. If not it will leak oil.
Thanks so much man.. My wife has the 2017 exploder and water pump went before 77k miles along with the compressor.. your video has got me through step by step… Thanks so much again….
Worked perfectly for my 2016 Taurus 3.5 NA, with the exception of the fuel line bracket which I unbolted and tucked behind the fender, the washer reservoir, which was keeping the ac line in the way, so unbolted washer resivor and dropped it a little and then bent the ac line towards the fender. Also found timing was off by one link. Engine runs super quite now! Didn’t even know it was out of timing and how much one link makes a difference. Great job! You have a donate page? Like to get you a beer or coffee!
While many others have said it, just want to thank you for such a thorough and well thought out video. This is surely a big job and I can’t believe that not only you did it but documented it so well.
You know what loved the video definitely a big job but doable you actually helped me make $2,000 because someone i know wanted to take it to the shop i did it for half... So big thank you
Literally just fixed a neighbor's wife's 3.5L. never touched a Ford engine this deeply moreso with some improvising since it wasn't exactly 100% this same engine. Also never did anything regarding timing chain or pulley pullers etc but I've worked on cars and knew there had to be a thorough video for this. Saved my neighbor thousands cause I'm sure a certified mechanic would've tried to pull the engine for ease of access and charged a lot. 4 days of extensive work getting everything off and now a few more to clean and put everything together whhheewww what a job!! Thank you for this valuable knowledge you decided to share with the world!!! 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🫂🫂
I am just wrapping up this job myself and exclusively followed this video. Best I’ve seen and made me comfortable enough to tackle this myself. I already owned most of the needed tools, and there could be some variations of these tools to make it even easier. If you will do this job, have a small arsenal of tools at your disposal!
Your “kung fu” is truly strong my friend and by the way,if you really want complete access to the left of the engine(the closest to the windshield)you can remove the entire cowl assembly.
This is the best video on this subject I've seen and I've watched a few. I did find that after 20 minutes of trying to pick and pull the rear injector connection I put the tools away and reached back and put my thumb on the latch and pressed and pulled and it came right off! No tool needed. I went to the next one then the last one and I had unhooked all three injectors in less than 60 seconds. I'm almost ready to pull the cover if I can get the pulley off.
Just a heads up for anyone doing this. If your valve cover bolts don't look near perfect, it's probably best to just replace them. Mine looked pretty good aside from a bit of discoloration on a few. First bolt sheared right off, flush, before I even made it anywhere near the initial 177 in-lbs(~15 ft-lbs) and it was on the back side of the back bank. Luckily, because the torque on that bolt is so low, the bolt was able to be easily backed out with a left-hand drill bit and extraction bit. But drilling into metal near open valve covers, even with precautions taken to avoid metal shavings getting in, is risky business; as is drilling so close to an aluminum mating surface. One small slip and "some disassembly" would be required.
This is a fantastic resource. One note though - DO NOT use an "ugga dugga" impact gun to press the crank pulley back on. You run the risk of breaking the crank locating pin, as I did. Lesson learned. Instead buy a cheapo harmonic balancer installation tool. Then use a strap wrench to hold the pulley while you torque the crank bolt. That bolt is a single-use "Torque to yield", so use a new one and follow the proper 2-step torque procedure. Other than that, this is the best video for water pump / timing chain replacement without pulling the engine out of the vehicle. Thanks, CLS!
From a professional, great video. Anyone could do this correctly without any additional info. Alldata doesn't come close to what you provide. Thank you.
As many mentioned, this is the best video. I will check under the engine next to the oil filter for a coolant leak. Hope it’s leaking so I can replace the pump using these instructions.
Notes: Replacement of the crankshaft pulley bolt is a recommended when doing this job!
The torque specs listed in this video should be double checked by other sources to verify everything is correct.
Chapters:
1:23 - WORK BEGINS
3:24 - FUEL LINE DISCONNECT
4:10 - AIR INTAKE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
5:02 - UNPLUGGING ENGINE WIRE HARNESS
6:00 - COIL PACKS REMOVAL
6:26 - VALVE COVERS REMOVAL
8:20 - SERPENTINE BELT REMOVAL
9:10 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL
10:18 - RIGHT ENGINE MOUNT REMOVAL
11:41 - TIMING CHAIN COVER REMOVAL
16:54 - TIMING CHAIN LOOSEN/REMOVAL
22:24 - WATER PUMP REMOVAL
23:56 - NEW WATER PUMP INSTALL
25:52 - TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ADJUST & INSTALL
27:45 - CRANKSHAFT "FRONT MAIN" SEAL REPLACEMENT
29:03 - LUBRICATE INTERNAL ENGINE PARTS
29:27 - APPLY GASKET MAKER FOR TIMING CHAIN COVER INSTALL
31:53 - RIGHT ENGINE MOUNT INSTALL
32:36- CRANKSHAFT SHAFT PULLEY INSTALL
33:09 - SERPENTINE BELT INSTALL
33:39 - VALVE COVERS INSTALL
34:08 - SPARK PLUGS REPLACEMENT
38:42 - ADDING OIL & COOLANT FLUIDS
39:01 - STARTING THE VEHICLE FOR A TEST
Best video on RUclips for this water pump change out. While the job is fairly extensive, your video shows it's doable at home. How many hours did this take less the sealant wait time? Side note, Ford should be ashamed of this design.
Hi, i have question. They change my water pump on my explorer 2012 v6 . When i have it ,it starts to leak oil,why is this? I return the vehicle to the mechanic stay with my car over 2 weeks and he said it was fixed, but my car still leaking oil, i don't want to go back to him please can you answer my question. Where are you located? I don't trust mechanics
@@DirtyCoastCajun These automoible companies know exactly what they're doing when they design these vehicles, these designs are for ridiculous labor cost prices💰💰💰; as well as prevention from self service and/or your local trustworthy mechanics. The more difficult the design, the more people depend on services from their (EXTREMELY OVER PRICED) dealerships. GREED🤑🤑🤑 is why they do it. 😒😒😒
Was this sped up?? How long did it take you do you think a 3 hour job or a 2 day job
You have way too much time on your hands
Just finished my son's 2013 Ford Edge this weekend. Took 14 hours over 4 days. Took to 2 places for quotes: $4500. So, bought the parts and a few tools that I didn't have (I was an auto tech in the late 70's, so had most tools). $303 total. I know you've gotten some very well deserved "thank you's" from many folks, and they are well deserved. I could afford to drop the car off, wince at writing a $4500 check, and go about my day; but a lot of folks can't. I chose to do the work myself just for the principle of it. (ok, and the satisfaction) But I'm amazed at how you both did the job, and recorded each part to help so many other folks. You didn't have to do this, but I (and many many others) are very grateful for you being so unselfish with your time. Thanks again!
thank you for the kind words
Well said
Well said brother
I concur! Thank You so much!
I read this comment before attempting to do it myself, I completely understand now😂...not too bad tho 😂 thanks to this video
Holy crap! This video should be up for at least a Golden Globe award. Spielberg couldn’t have done it better.
I'm a mechanic This is the best and most through video I've EVER seen!!
@@TC-qv3wy I am also and agree. It is quite impressive.
My first cost estimate for replacing the water pump only included prices of the pump and gaskets. But now... wow! I am so glad I watched this video ahead of time. I will be buying spark plugs, gasket maker, plastic ties, brake cleaner, pulley puller ... The little things obviously matter. For me, the cost of a mechanic would have exceeded the vehicles value. So I am willing to spend two relaxed weeks fixing my car. Thank you so much for making this video.
One of the best, if not the best 3.5 Liter water pump replacement videos out there. Hats off to you sir, if you're not an engineer, you sure think like one. Thanks
Thank you
No lies detected here. He did a jam up job.....💪🏾
Mint performance. No longer smooth brained after this video. Well done.
Couldn’t agree more. Well done sir. Thank you!
What a STUPID genius water 💦 pump location design,
During design process, No one doubted this stupidity?
No one here ever complains this stupidity, stupid customers too 😂🎉😢😮😅😊
I just bought a 2014 Police Interceptor Sedan 3.7L with 103K miles and after driving it for only 2 weeks the water pump started leaking. I'm a female but I've always done most of my own mechanic work (i.e. alternators, fuel pumps, water pumps, brakes, oil changes, etc.) but I've also always had Dodge vehicles so the work was never too difficult. This is the first Ford I've had to work on and I was absolutely flabbergasted when I discovered where the water pump is located on this thing. The way Ford built this is absolutely ridiculous! But I REFUSE to pay someone thousands of dollars to have a couple hundred dollars worth of parts replaced, and after watching your video, I'm confident I can do it myself (I'll have my husband help out too when needed of course lol) Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, you're awesome! I've already watched it 3 times and I know I'll be watching it several more times while doing the work. I did notice someone in the comments said there are a couple of extra bolts/steps that are not mentioned in the video for the 3.7L engine so thank you to them too for the heads up, I'll be sure to look out for that.
How did you make out?
My mom’s 2016 Ford Explorer 3.5 is leaking from the bottom of the ac compressor where the bolt is at. Looks like I’ll be replacing her pump
Ford should be ashamed of themselves for the amount of work it takes just to reach this thing. Excellent video. I have a Taurus and I’m pretty sure my pump is going out … this video is immeasurably helpful.
As a guy who lives paycheck to paycheck and who's wife needs the car badly I agree ...I just put everything together last night around 10 pm ..been putting evenings into it lol..if it don't work it's going to the scrap yard 😅
Welcome to ford how I fuck you I mean help you today
@@kinggrund6258that’s the Ford mentality!
Tough to imagine what a Ford Engineer was thinking putting a part that commonly needs to be replaced internal to the engine, turning a 1 hour job into 13-14 hours. And the design flaw is a big double-whammy, since the water pump can also fail at any time, usually dumping coolant in the engine and ruining the engine before people know what happened. Spend $3-4K (or parts plus ~14 hours work) about every 80k miles just to be proactive in the hopes of not getting a bigger bill for an engine replacement.
Is it leaking? What are signs that makes you think it's going bad? Just bought a 2014 Taurus police interceptor with 130k miles. Thinking about doing this before anything
PLEASE READ IF YOU ARE PLANNIG TO DO THIS WORK!!
First of all thank you for this AWESOME video, it helped me tremendously to change my water pump on my 2016 Ford Explorer.(100,000 miles)
Having said that, please read below if you are planning to attack this massive job.
1) Watch this video and write down all the parts and tools that you will need.
2) Do not raise the vehicle up first. By doing that, you are lifting the front end and it makes it harder for you to work on the top of the engine. Take the valve covers off and then raise the vehicle up.
3) The hook set he is mentioning in the video is absolutely necessary! Without them, I couldn't have taken the fuel injector connections off. They are tricky.
4) Mark the timing chain just like he does and take tons of pictures. I used camshaft lockers and when I put every thing back together, I realized the markings were off on the intake side by one tooth. With the lockers in place, I was able to use a wrench to move it barely and they ended up lining correctly.
5) When spraying the brake cleaner make sure you don't erase the markings on the chain or the camshafts. (VERY IMPORTANT).
5) When I put my timing cover back I failed to put silicone on the top, where the 6 bolts are. Very easy to miss if you are applying the silicone to the rest of the timing cover from the bottom.
6) This is my opinion, but since you are doing this job you should definitely consider changing valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket and spark plugs. They are all inexpensive and worth the effort.
7) This is a big job. I work on my cars often and it still took me 1.5 days to finish and test it. (I took my time to make sure I didn't miss anything).
Again a HUGE thanks to whoever made this video. Ford quoted me $2,500 for this repair, I was able to fix it with about $400. (I already have most of the tools)
If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to reach out to me.
Wow, thanks for your update as well,, sure helps alot since i am about to tackle this on my own. i been quoted the same as you , and nothing under 1400,, but i have some questions for you, 1. when attaching the water pump, i didnt see him apply any silicon or gasket maker on it, do you have to do this or not? 2. my issues with the job is the marks with the timing. i have the tools for the camshaft holder, i assume marking the chain is only to prevent the timing from getting out of whack, since the car before the water pump failure should be in perfect timing , correct ?
@@benfernkay8974 do NOT use sealer on the pump gasket…ever. If you look closely at the chain the links are marked for proper alignment. I would urge you to use a ford pump and a new chain, you don’t want to do this job twice. 22 year ford tech , I’ve replaced many of these. If you have questions, I would be happy to answer.
@@harrybalsonya5619 thanks, can you explain about the timing, i thought the car is in proper timing as it is,, so using the tool to lock in the camshaft is necessary.. but how do i know for sure its in timing and why would the timing be off just by replacing the water pump....?
@@benfernkay8974 the tools used are cam holders so the phaser bolts can be torqued to spec. The timing is achieved by the colored chain links and dots on the gears. The factory chain has colored links as well but they can be hard to see with age. I would recommend a new primary chain and tensioner when changing the water pump, it only makes sense to.
As for timing, the chain will have 4 colored links. The two links next to each other go on the crank gear the single links will fall on the cam gears. Once the cover is off put the crank bolt back in and rotate the engine CLOCKWISE until the crank key is at 12:00, you should be able to see the cam gear dots.mid not rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees until you get the cam gear dots in the up position and the crank is at 12:00. At this point route the chain over the gears placing the colored single links on the cam gear dots and the double links straddle the crank dot which will be at about the 5:00 o’clock position. Put your guide and tensioners on and verify the links and dots line up. You may have to move a gear to get the marks to line up, this is fine as long as they line up. Good luck.
Edit… You have to take off the chain to replace the pump, there’s no tool to hold the crank so you’ll have to reset the timing.
@@harrybalsonya5619 Unfortunately I found it difficult to remove the water pump, and ended up scratching the block where the water pump gasket seals, so I applied silicone, is it going to be ok?
Just completed my wife’s 2017 explorer water pump at 83k miles. Your video made it much easier. I got it done in about 7.5 hours.
Hello, Did you the timing chains also? If so did you reuse the cam phaser bolts or buy new ones. I cant find anywhere to buy them online. I only finf 2nd gen 3.5l bolts. Pretty sure they're different. Thanks in advance.
Just finished this job on my wife's explorer and it was legit the biggest car job I've tackled on my own, ever. I would never have even thought to do this job myself had I not seen this video. It was so thorough, and like everyone has said before, an amazing guide that you didn't have to do, but did and have probably saved people thousands and thousands of dollars. Some notes on this job in MY case, first I was unprepared for how long cleaning old silicone gasket from the main engine cover was gonna take. What took less than 30 seconds to talk about in the video, took a good 2 hours or more in real time, lol. Scraping and scrubbing all that old gasket off was a JOB in itself. But it's so worth the time and effort and should NOT be rushed, because I can't imagine having to take everything OFF again because the new gasket doesn't get a good seal, so be a perfectionist about it. Second, even with the timing chain guides taken off, getting the teeth perfect on your marks was still hard. I left the right(front of vehicle) cam/chain in place like the video, and once you get the chain under the new water pump, bringing it up and over the left cam was super difficult. It was like in BETWEEN two teeth of the cam gear thingy and I had to pull SUPER hard on the chain to get it back on the exact gear. Same with the bottom. My chain was good, but I did replace both lower guides and tensioner and recommend the same if you're in there anyway. My vehicle had 120k miles on it, so I replaced all spark plugs, and all valve cover gaskets and deals, which came all in a kit. This job took me 5 days, but I got some late starts due to regular work stuff. I'd block off at least 3 days if you're a Regular Joe like me, doing this in your driveway, especially since the gasket takes 24 hours to set anyway before got put new oil in, depending which you use. Another note, the fuel injector wire clips things are super stubborn, even with a pick set. One of the red tabs even cracked and a piece broke off trying to pry it up in the unlock position, so be careful and don't be too rough with those. Thankfully the clip itself was fine and snapped back on, I'll just have to use a screwdriver or something to push down on the black piece of plastic inside of it if I ever have to remove it again, which I PRAY I don't, lol. Overall, a very rewarding job once it's all done, I dropped about 500 in parts, and then obviously new oil, oil filter, coolant, air filter, etc adds up quick. But still, saved thousands from what I was quoted at multiple places. It's a 14 hr job and even at modest hourly mechanic rates, which can be 100 and up per hour, plus parts, it was gonna be at least a 2400.00 job from the reputable mechanic shops I got qoutes from, and that didn't include all the new parts I decided to replace along the way. Again, thanks for the video!!
I have been contemplating preemptively replacing water pump on my son's '13 edge with 130k miles. Was worriabout the engine support and you have answered that. I appreciate the note of bolt and torque specs as well as explicit instructions on the marking and locking cams. I've done a fair amount of timing work on 3v 5.4l so i'm not afraid of chains. This is a Gold Medal DIY! Thank You for your time and patience❤
This may be the best DIY instructional video I have ever seen. Clear, concise instructions. Great production. Good narration. Great "work-arounds" for potential issues that may be encountered.
FIRST THINGS FIRST - You sir, are PHENOMENAL! Like everyone before me has stated, this is the best instructional video I have ever watched. I always do my own repairs on my vehicles and will be replacing my water pump soon and this video was produced exactly how I wish every repair video would be made. You deserve all of the accolades that have been bestowed upon you in this comment section and I just wanted to add to that very long list! Thank you for this video and your efforts to help others in my same situation.
Thank you very much!
I totally got a promotion thanks to this video. You have the patience of a saint, and you are my hero.
I was able to use your video to replace the water pump on my 2015 Ford Taurus. The repair went so well and the car is running brilliantly once again. Your video is comprehensive and direct. I can't thank you enough for creating this video and posting it for all
Thank you. Glad it helped you out.
Hands down THE BEST Ford water pump tutorial on RUclips. If DIY were the army, this dude would be a general. Every one of us owes you a beer! You have some serious skills at clearly and thoroughly explaining everything. I'm biting my nails patiently waiting for the day that my number finally comes up and my Explorer gets a visit from the weeping fairy. I've watched this video and others multiple times over so that when the inevitable happens, I can break down a 3.5 in my sleep.
This is by far the best video on the 3.5 water pump...it's not even close. Clear and concise
Thanks man!
Thank you for this video. I just finished this repair and am responsible for 100 of the views. Fantastic video and a true blessing.
😂😅 that was funny
Where did you buy the correct cam lock? I have a 2017 and the locks are not flush
Thank you for your time and dedication to making this video. I started on a Tuesday morning and finished on a Saturday afternoon. Throughout this endeavor I was scared especially when it came to the timing chain. I had my ups and downs and believe me, I wanted to quit. Somehow I continued to battle. I was in disbelief that my car started right up. Thank you again for everything. I could not have done it without your instruction. Moreover, I saved alot of money. Thank you sir.
Glad to here everything worked out, good job!
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One
Do the cam sensors have to be reprogrammed after this....have a 2017 that is running rough after reassembly...timing is not off, but I'm getting a cam sensor.code that wasn't there before
How much do they charge to do a water pump replacement for 2017 ford explorer v6?
@3MMobileMechanicServices I've seem a 2500.00 charge at the dealership here for eater pump replacement on an explorer.
@3MMobileMechanicServices I have seem quotes from 3 to 4k
🙏🙏 BIG THANKS 🙏🙏 I just swapped the water pump out on a 2015 Ford Explorer 3.5 I never could have completed the task without this video. I’m just a part swapper, by no means am I considered a mechanic. After I watched the video a couple times, I felt confident that I could take this project on. Once again, couldn’t have done this on my own. Thanks for a very thorough video.
Glad you were able to tackle the job!
Absolutely the finest DIY video I have seen dealing with the Ford V6 3.5-3.7 engine water pump. I have a 2016 Ford Flex with 113,000 miles, that I will trust my independent local mechanic to undertake this work preemptively in the coming months (no evidence to date of water pump failure). That said, I cannot thank you enough for sharing this level of detail and superb video work (you're the first I've seen who so successfully does overlay graphic circling of the EXACT bolt/item you are speaking about). It makes it all the better for me as I'll know exactly what to ask the mechanic about, regarding their process.
Much continued success to you!
Thankyou.
The word is that a coolant change arounf 60,000 to 70,000 miles prevent deteriation of tge waterpump sesl that causes the leak. Sone owners are at 150,000 miles no isdlsues because they changed the coolant. Others need to change water pump at 100,000 miles or sooner..
I flushed the system and filled with Ford antifreeze at 75k, now at 120k getting ready to replace the pump that is leaking externally.
@@bradleysteeves7891 I'm at 53000 and just got my estimate for $3200 for a replacement.
You're the REAL MVP for this one. Could not possibly have been any better of an instructional video. Thank you for this!
Thanks so much for watching!
This video is absolutely invaluable to anyone attempting to replace their Ford Duratec water pump. I wouldn’t have been able to even begin to do it without this video. I must say however that I have the 2013 3.7 L and there were several additional steps that weren’t covered in the video. The 3.7 has an additional stretch belt that must be removed from the main pulley, and three bolts in the side of the cam cover that must be removed to get the cam cover off, and they are near impossible to get to. The entire process was arduous and very time consuming, and throughout it I wasn’t sure if I could actually complete it. My timing chain had a little slack so I ended up replacing the chain as well. The thing that made me the most nervous was getting it all done and having the gasket maker leak. There were 2 little nuts at the back of the rear valve cover on the studs of the valve cover bolts that held brackets for an AC line, and those nuts were frozen and impossible to get to and get off, and I ended up having to grind them off. I damaged one of the valve covers in the process and had to replace it. Also be very careful torquing down the valve cover bolts. At 15 foot pounds I broke two of them off in the block. I will have to go back and drill those out but for now the cover is not leaking. This whole procedure is not for the faint of heart if you are a novice like me and not a seasoned mechanic. This is by far the best video for replacing a duratec water pump. I can see now why it’s so expensive to replace one of these, and why there is a class action lawsuit against Ford.
First of all, this was a great video (to a point), and it helped me immensely when changing out the water pump in my wife's 2016 Explorer. I never thought I could pull something like this off, but with my son's help, we were able to get it done in a few days. I was really surprised that there were no leaks or trouble codes that came up after starting it. However, after about 4 months without incident, we were driving home on Christmas eve, and noticed that the check engine light had suddenly come on. Also, there seemed to be a loss of power while driving down the highway. Then the engine just shut down completely, and wouldn't start again. After having it towed to a dealership, come to find out that the engine was done for. And it was all due to the crankshaft pulley being loose, and subsequently led to the timing chain failing, and busted valves, etc. The technician who worked on it told me the bolt for the pulley is a one time use bolt, meaning you have to use a new one each time. In the video, you used the same bolt, which is what I did. Now my car is pretty much worthless. (Unless I want to pay over $7000 for a new engine) For all you folks thinking about tackling this big job, make sure you use a new bolt for the crank pulley!!! I can't begin to tell you how angry I am over this. I did everything right according to this video, and now my engine is ruined.
After watching this amazing video, I'm not buying a Ford Explorer v6, ever.
😂
Just for that reason alone my 2013 did it &they all will eventually unless your lucky
Bingo!!!!
Any ford or dodge or chev….just get a Toyota! :)
lol yea a cause Toyota doesn't have timing belt issues 😂
This video was perfectly done was able to purchase all the tools from harbor freight starting from scratch. Using this video i did all the work myself. Even ended up replacing all my motor mounts. First time ever working on a car this in depth and it all went smoothly...for anyone thinking of DYI this job dont be intimidated Worst part of the entire job was waiting for all the parts to come in. With tools and parts My costs was still under $1000 and over time they will pay for themselves. Thanks again Keep making a great video!!
Thanks man.
Good job on your DIY repair as well.
What a STUPID genius water 💦 pump location design,
A basically small water pump replacement job turned to be a huge project 😂😢😢
During design process, No one doubted this stupidity?
No one here ever complains this stupidity, stupid customers too 😂🎉😢😮😅😊
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One trying to figure out which water pump to use, one seal or 2 seal from carquest
Do you have a list of parts and tools you purchased? We are about to tackle this on our 17 Explorer
@@freddieravan1387 Ford
Similar to all the posts, looking at quotes was gut wrenching. 2018 limited has 166k and it went out. Bought the cam locks and HB puller, 3gals of mix, 6qts high mileage oil, timing chain, water pump, right stuff gasket maker and 2x of brake cleaner.. $847. Got the parts from ford..thank you for this detailed vid!! Life saving, and $$ saving!
That's a lot of parts! Glad the video helped you save money.
I've been working on my various cars for around 30 years. I can say that my skill level is intermediate. I have two Taurus's with the 3.5 L engine. This job scares me. But, your video gave me the confidence to do this job. Thank you very much!
ditto!
I owe you a 30 pack of beer. You saved me thousands of dollars on this repair!
Where did you buy the correct cam lock? I have a 2017 and the locks are not flush
This video gave me the confidence to tackle this job and it took my son and me three full days. We used only hand tools except for a 1/2-Inch air impact wrench to reinstall the cam pully. The air impact was not strong enough to loosen the bolt so we used a 1/2' breaker bar and some leg power. The video has a lot of detailed information on torquing specs but we found it was impossible to get a torque wrench on most of the bolts so we did the best we could. There is very little space between the frame and the engine cover. The video is well done and the lighting is good giving the impression of more space than there actually is. Unless you have some extra long tools we needed cheater bars for our ratchets and we used boxed end wrenches to cheat when a ratchet would not fit. Breaking the bolts free on the engine cover took a couple of hours. Reassembly was just as challenging due to the tight space and we had to estimate the torque on most of the bolts where our 3/8" drive torque wrench did not fit. It worries me a bit but we had no choice at that point and tightened the bolts by hand the best we could. The job was completed successfully and we have no leaks. Getting the air out of the cooling system proved to be a time-consuming task but parking uphill on a steep slope to get the heater core below the reservoir finally got the air out and we have heat from the vents. It was a tough job but I'm retired with a lot of free time so I made money doing it myself. Quotes I received to do this job ranged from $3800-$4500. I purchased all of the parts and supplies plus some tools including parts for a complete brake job for $1100. However, after doing it myself I can see where shops would have to charge a lot to do it and warranty the work. The pump I removed was not worn out, the bearings were smooth and the bearing seals were fine. The problem was the o-ring seal was leaking, hard to believe all of that work was due to a thin rubber o-ring!
I have a 2014 Taurus with 3.5 and was set intially on having to take it to someone. Thank YOU so much for this walk through, as I'm very mechanically inclined, but have major arthritis and wasn't sure I wanted to do this or not. After diagnosis and the subsequent leaking from near the AC I decided the issue was the water pump. After watching this video my confidence was majorly increased in that it was something I could do and VOILA! I was, with the help of my brother, able to get it done. We had to buy/rent several parts and was going to change the timing chain with the set but decided not to as my 138k parts still appeared in great shape, i.e. very little wear on the guides etc.. I will say this took us 4 days to complete about 6-7 hours each day as I wanted to be very meticulous with each phase and watched this video through the whole thing.. I feel very accomplished completing this job with your guidance and I can't thank you enough for this VIDEO and the very thorough detail you put into it. In the end with everything I spent about $400 on it all and now have a bunch of specific tools I can continue to use in the future if the need arises. You saved me thousands at a dealer and can't say enough.. Thank you VERY MUCH!
Thank you so much for the excellent tutorial. I completed a replacement of the water pump and spark plugs on my wife’s 2016 Explorer this weekend. Took me about 17 hours of work time and it worked perfectly. By the way, our water pump failed at just over 100K miles. I’m now a loyal subscriber.
Do you have a list of parts and tools you needed?
We have to do this on our 17 explorer
I can't thank you enough for this excellent step by step repair. Just completed this on my 2013 Explorer with 188k miles. The most difficult items for me were; removal of the fuel line, removal of the balancer bolt, and the general small working area to remove and replace the 26 cover bolts.
Much appreciated.
Thank you.
Glad it helped!
It’s easy, you just need 3 hands, be a contortionist, and misc swivels, extensions wrench and a lot of bad words.
I'm curious. How long did it take you to complete the repair?
Probably the longest and most tedious part was cleaning the old RTV silicone off the timing cover and off of the engine mounting surfaces. I found that the plastic razor blades work amazing. It leaves no gouges in the metal when scraping. Also adding the new RTV silicone to the engine surface was very hard due to the limited work space. All in all I probably spent atleast 18 hours working on it over the course of 4 days. Also the crankshaft pulley bolt needs to be replaced and do not reuse it. they are torque to yield only - one time use. A new bolt w/ washer cost 8 bucks at Ford. Additionally Ford has also changed the coolant type to a Yellow. The red fluid has been discontinued and needs to be flushed out as it has been known to cause corrosion issues.
Little late reply, but total time was about 23 hours for me. The fuel line and the balancer bolt really cost me some time.
I was 2 hours away from buying a 2013 EDGE and found this incredibly well done video and decided on NOPE
this should be the standard by which all youtube mechanical repairs are measured ...bravo amigo you da man
Lolll. Same here. Was looking at 2013 that needed water pump... Screw that.
My first water pump went out at 120,000 milesI had a mechanic shop replace it, they didn't use a fomoco pump and it went out again at around 47,000 mile mark. When I let them know they told me it was 2,000 miles outside their warranty and they would need $2,000 to replace it again. I said not this time, I'll do it my self. Thanks soo much for the video!! I was a jet engine specialist in the military I should have did it myself the first time!
Looks like to be in the safe side it's good idea to replaced every 40k miles after the first replacement its very ridiculous the damage to the motor when the water pump fails
What a STUPID genius water 💦 pump location design,
A basically small water pump replacement job turned to be a huge project 😂😢😢
During design process, No one doubted this stupidity?
No one here ever complains this stupidity, stupid customers too 😂🎉😢😮😅😊
Maybe tell us specifically what brand you DID use because not all of us are impressed with the mileage we got from the oem pump, especially for the additional cost
How did it go?
Top shelf DIY video of a very complex repair. The best video and narration I have seen so far on youtube. I am retired mechanic of 40 years and all I can say is you should be producing these videos for a living.
Thank you
GREAT video. My friend and I, 2 Women, completed this job in 4 1/2 days during a 106* heat wave. We took extra care trying to save the clips. This meant extra time. As we removed parts, we took pictures and videos. We cataloged the parts as we removed them, keeping screws and bolts together with parts. We replaced the water pump, crankshaft oil seal, serpentine belt, left and right lower timing belt guides, tensioner, spark plugs and the valve cover gaskets. We had a few blips, but, we figured them out. Neither one of us are mechanics, but, we know which end of a screwdriver to use. Estimate from dealership $3,000. Estimate from mechanic $4,000. Cost of parts $400. There were little things in the video that weren’t the same as my 2014 Explorer, nothing we couldn’t figure out. Ex: the engine mount bolts need to be removed to get to 2 bolts on timing chain cover. We used M8 female torx socket to remove them. When putting a cloth over the camshaft, take care that the cloth doesn’t get caught in the camshaft when removing the pulley, the pulley may rotate while attempting to remove it.
Filled with fluids and so far no leaks. She’s purring like a kitten.
Could you do a video about how to change a blown head gasket on a 1970 F250😊
Thank you, thank you, thank you
One more major “Thank you!” to add to the growing comment list. My daughter and I followed you step-by-step and it was so thorough and informative! I can turn a wrench, but this was intense. Thanks!
I'm impressed with how thorough you were. This is the last video anyone needs to make on this topic!
i've done alot of dyi auto projects. never thought i would ever mess with the timing chain but this detailed video gave me the confidence to do it. and for that i thank you. i would like to zelle you. some $ in appreciation for your time to make this available for everyone. thank you you saved me a lot of money
Thank you, thanks for watching. There is a tip feature built in under the video title to the right or a link to a tip jar in the description.
This video just saved me $2500. Respect...
Where did you buy the correct cam lock? I have a 2017 and the locks are not flush
Same. Shop just quoted me 3k
I am a Master Mech ( have done this job about 16 times) and this is a very good video I have shared with my other tech friends, who say the same , "Very detailed "
Can a regular person do this job?
In the chance you don’t mind responding, I did this work but am having timing issues
Bank 2 cams end up out of alignment..intake/exhaust weren’t parallel when I reopened the cover
I realigned them but am unsure if it’s a bad phaser that is sticking? Any opinion or help you can offer if you’ve seen it? Just bought a oem main timing chain in case it’s stretched and will be trying that next but would much prefer to just do the phaser if that’s the issue causing the misalignment/mistime
Just had to take mine to a local mechanic. Need that special tool for the timing chain. Cost me $1500 😢
@javierramos6722 hello did you figure out the issue. My vehicle starts but only stays running few seconds and sounds muffled and can smell gas. Im pretty sure the top camshafts being not aligned with bottom shafts has to be the issue. I don't know if I can somehow turn that cam to align or what.
@@overdrive020 unfortunately I haven’t been back to it, spent time purchasing another car needed in family and other issues so haven’t worked on it…I’ve come to the conclusion though, unless I hear someone’s opinion, that the cams are unaligning because of the main timing chain jumping. When the main chain goes, I think the cams unalign from one another as well as the crank. In my case I will align the cams so that the locking tool fits over them, then replace the main chain with the new oem one (it has marked links and the marks are on phasers and crank to line them up) and test it from there and pray it doesn’t jump again
The main chain should have 42 links between the two cam marks, 50links between the bank 2 cam mark and the crank mark, and then 37 between crank and bank 1 cam mark (I hope that helps)
Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to post this exceptionally detailed video. Ford dealer quoted me $4100.00 for this repair, with almost $3600.00 in labor. With the help of your instructions I have sucessfully changed my water pump and I am back on the road with no issues thus far for around $400.00 in parts (new thermostat, pcv valve, and valve cover gaskets) and 4 days of labor. Thank you again for taking the time and sharing your expertise, much appreciated. I saved myself $3600.00!!!
IF you decide to remove the CAM Phasers MAKE SURE TO BUY THE CAMSHAFT LOCK TOOL AND USE TP55 TORX PLUS BIT (Not the same as regular T55). The Cloyes timing kit comes with an installation video on Rock Auto and they suggest the cam lock tool isn’t necessary, so I attempted my repair without it and regretted it (added a full day of work). This is because the effort to remove the phasers is significantly higher than the installation torque. A regular T55 will strip the bolts and it took 3 people to hold the cam shaft and break the bolts loose with a metal pipe. The cam locking tool is also useful when reinstalling the crank pulley. Be careful not to over torque the crank pulley with an impact gun the pulley can over travel and bind the pulley. Also make sure the primary chain is on when you loosen or tighten the phaser sprockets. Great video if you replace all chains heed my warning about the cam lock tool and TP55 bit.
I am about to get a 3.5 Edge tomorrow, and I was very nervous thinking that the water pump will fail eventually and I'll have to dump a couple thousand dollars into repairs, so I even thought about walking away from this car. Having found this video - I am now confident that even if this happens - I will be able to take some time off work and repair it myself. Thanks a lot!
Great video on process for the waterpump replacement. Totally crazy that Ford designed an engine requiring this much work to repalce a waterpump. When my daughter told me the cost to do this on her Explorer I thought there had to be a mistake. Now I understand all that is involved. Thanks for taking the time to educate us on the process....
Hi, How much is the cost of this repair? Thank you.
It's like a 2,000-2,500 dolller job.
@@NFTYCENTnot ready more like 750.00 1k tops
@@sfssjonathan9150 750 is still 2 much this engine is junk
@sfssjonathan9150, where are you getting your price from, im talking about shop prices. I just finished mine. I spent 200$ on a new crank seal,oem pump, new fluid and plugs.
I am not a mechanic and know little to nothing about car repair. BUT, if I were forced to have to change my water pump by myself...this video would be my guide. You did a heck of a great job explaing all the details to successfully handling this job.
Thank you
😂. I love how you watched it, knowing you'll likely never use it. I'm over here wondering how many days it'll take me. No hate
Thank you for this awesome video! You just save me $3k. These california prices are no joke. I really appreciate it. I've seen almost every video there is out there on this water pump and this is by far the best one. Now I feel confident enough to do it my self.
how did it go
THE BEST VIDEO EVER. This is the first time I’ve ever left a comment for someone. I don’t have to do this job yet; however, I learned a lot. I just wanted to see what the video is about, but I could not stop watching until the end. Thank you Sir, you are amazing.
Thank you
Thank you so much for this video. 2015 taurus 3.5 water pump leak. Was told NO by 2 diff shops, wouldnt even price it. Dealer was 5600 with timing components. I honestly, it really isnt all that bad. Easy? Nah. But with the video, i was able to complete in about 11 hours.. basically no special tools were needed other then a gear puller and the cam lock tool.. take your time and have patience is key. Lay everything out and stay organized... thanks again
I got mine replaced at 66k miles back in may of 2022 on my 2016 ford Taurus and recently I noticed it started to leak again and it has 89k miles.
oh no. What did you do about the 2nd leak? @@Limited-uq2yk
I'll like to say thank you so much for the video. Took me about 4 days to complete in total. Im in the 24 hours drying time right now. But the hardest part of the whole job was the gasket n timing cover bolts. A Puddy knife was a big help. Also theres a hiddle bolt by the alternate which i almost missed. Also, Please buy channel locks! It will be nearly impossible to push that small chain tensioner back in place without one. Also buy a very small allen wrench or even a very thin nail! Because the tool they send you with your cam locks will be to big. I promise you will thank me later. Make sure you mark the chain good. When putting chain back on just pull from the water pump onto the back cam , because you will be off 1 tooth and wonder how to get it back on......... slowly watch the video and do the same hand placement as this guy. You will understand when you get to this part. Also when taking off the vavle covers go slow and dont yank on it or you will break something............... now for the pully. It was the most hardest thing ever. I had to use my own belt to fold it own itself like in other RUclips videos because i didn't have any other way to hold the pully still. A new belt was 25$. In my opinion it was well worth the price. The belt had cracked a little because of the pressure but worked after like 30 mins trying. Now putting the pully back on was kinda hard. But i had a big rubber mallet n a big socket n just went to town on it. Then i just started tapping at the sides to try to get the 2cm i needed for the bolt to go inside. Took another 15 mins just for that. I used a drill to pushed it in and tourqed it the best i could while holding it with my bear hands. You gotta be strong for this job. Overall this job will have you sore. Othere then that just mAKE SURE YOU TRIPPLE CHECK EVERY BOLT BEFORE GOING TO THE NEXT STEP. p.s there a small connector on the back of the vavle cover near the passenger side close to the firewall. Either use a pry tool to undo the clip or just break the lil peice off or use a knife to cut it. Overall do not yank on it. Also leave all your bolts with the item your taking off. The last thing you need to do is lose a bolt........... ALSO FOR THE BELT TENSIONER THERES ANOTHER PLACEMENT FOR THE RATCHET AT THE BOTTOM. USE THAT ONE INSTEAD OF THE ONE ON top NEAR THE AC LINE.
Last thing. Unscrewed the bolt out of the cam after the chain is tighten back up with the camlocks still installed. You will thank me later
Just tackled this job over the weekend. By far the most difficult work I've had to do on a vehicle of mine. Your guide made every step very very clear. Thank you for this video!
How long did it take you?
Seriously people don’t respond in here. 😂
This is the best step by step video I have ever seen on youtube! Bought a 2016 ford taurus at an auction for 1700 bucks. With about 400 bucks, a little sweat, blood and your great video, I was able to get it done correctly in just under 10 hours. Thank you so much for making this great video,!
Unreal the amount of detail and step by step guide youve put together. Best guide I’ve ever watched!! Subscribed
Thank you! I just changed the timing chain and water pump after watching your video and pausing every 10 seconds to make sure I didn’t miss a step.
Was there anything he missed or did you run into any problems?
I lost interest in doing this job 5 minutes into this video, but WOW! I was very interested in the whole video. Very informative, very detailed, and he made it look easy. Gone are the days of a simple water pump swap. looks like many hours here.
Thank you, Amazing video just finished the water pump in my wife's 2015 explorer sport with the 3.5 ecoboost, some bolts on the timing cover where in slightly different locations and of course all the extra intake hoses and vacuum lines but this got me threw with out a single hiccup! Took approx. 18 hrs by myself over 4 days.
I don't know how I stumbled on your video, but it was excellent. Attention to details, tips in between. My friend has a flex, I'm going to arm him now. Never new manufacturers designed internal water pumps, damn shame.
Excellent instructions for a person who has the skills and knows how to use the tools. It is not a tutorial for learning how to work on engines. I was able to replace the water pump and timing chain on my 2015 Ford Explorer. The hardest part for me was removing the injector connectors, I ended up removing only 2 to give me enough space to remove the valve covers. I had to lift the engine high enough to have the space for removing the timing chain cover. You need all kinds of socket lengths and ratchets to open the timing chain cover, not to mention how tight was the crankshaft pully. Be very careful when removing the wires and parts not to damage anything, so at the end you can put them back together and start the car with success. Watch this video a few times before starting the job, prepare all parts and tools so you don't have to go back and forth to dealer and hardware stores.
Best automotive service video I've seen. Every step is shown in detail, no bs fumbling around, gets right to the point. Very professional! Thank you
Thank you
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One Which water pump do you recomend factory with one seal or the car quest You used with 2 seals ?
Good afternoon, I want to take the time and thank you for your video. I had todo the water pump on my 2015 explorer limited. It would have cost me around $4-6k in my area to have this done. I did have to watch a couple other videos because I also changed the timing phasers while I was in there, and I changed all 3 chains. Be the meat and potato’s of the install all came from your video. I wouldn’t have been able todo the job without it. That being said I am an airline mechanic, even for me the task was challenging. But your attention to detail and listing the torque values made it possible to do the job right. Again thank you , thank you thank you! So very much. You are appreciated sir.
Total cost for parts on my end was around 1200.00 for everything. Took me around 4 days because I had to wait on parts. But we got it done.
Thanks
Thank you for the valuable feedback! Where did you buy the correct cam lock? I have a 2017 and the locks are not flush
Excellent detailed video, I have heard it like 5,000 job at dealer. I can't believe how complexe ford engineers have made this. 😳 hats off to you sir!
I have to say this is the most comprehensive DIY video I've even seen. I'm glad becuase this was a horrible job. I recently changed the water pump on the Grand Marquis which took about 30 minutes! I couldn't believe what it took to get to this one.
Thanks CLS!
I'm currently doing this job on a Lincoln MKZ. Extremely thorough video with great detail and clarity. You sir, are a master.
Glad it was helpful!
How many miles on the factory pump?
I just bought a used 2009 Ford Edge limited awd with check engine light. I always or mostly fix my cars with help from RUclips. I have to say I have never seen such a detailed video. This video should be used as an example on How To. Great job Sir, bundle of thanks.
Thorough enough to give the confidence the job can be done, not over the top verbose.
Excellent video!
Glad you liked it!
Just finished my wife's 2014 Ford Explorer. This video was the best. Took my time with watching this for all the things I would encounter. Disassembly was a little long for the first time. You want to make sure you know where everything goes back in place. The only part I needed to replace was the water pump. Everything else was in great shape. After about 16 hours its back together and running. My cost was $383.00. That was cleaners a few tools and the pump, Ultra Black gasket sealer. I had Quotes for $4,100.00 and $3,900.00 . Great video please share his info with others who need to tackle this type of work. Thank You C.L.S. ALL-IN-ONE !
You're welcome
Great video. I own a shop and in the last two weeks I've had a Ford edge, a Ford Taurus, and a Mazda CX-9 all come in needing this repair. For those with a Ford edge I would recommend evacuating the a/c system, removing the a/c compressor, removing the alternator, and disconnecting the power steering pump in order to install the cover... even then it will still be tight. This is a bear of a Job but slightly easier on the explorer due to the extra space. I would also replace the chains, crank sprocket, and guides.
it's about EDGE before 2015 I think.
agree, no point having this all open to not replace the chain at the same time
What a STUPID genius water 💦 pump location design,
A basically small water pump replacement job turned to be a huge project 😂😢😢
During design process, No one doubted this stupidity?
No one here ever complains this stupidity, stupid customers too 😂🎉😢😮😅😊
So you have to remove the ac system etc? For an Edge?
@@jeedwards1981
I would recommend it. It'll give you more space to work.
This is the most detailed and clear automotive video I’ve ever seen! Amazing work. Thanks for sharing!!
Glad you liked it!
Wow! Wow! Wow! That's the most thorough explanation and tutrorial on how to tackle this job! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I don't have the time, tools, space or patience to do this myself. But it does give me an appreciation of the service technicians that will do mine!!! My 2013 Ford Explorer has 150,000 miles. I plan to keep it going for another 50K-100K. I hate spending money on buying cars!!!
I read a review from owner of Ford flex with the same engine who had over 300000 miles apparently. Something like 340000 miles.
@@zzoinks I have 315,000 miles on mine and it's a 2017 explorer. The engine still runs like new, replaced the water pump at 170,000 miles.
@@paramvirdeol386did you changed it because it failed or preventative maintenance?
@@thevally6127 The coolant started leaking through the hole that's in it.
@@paramvirdeol386 okay and that leaks near the oil pan correct? Sorry for bugging ya but my wife's explorer is on 110k mileage range and wanted to get it done before problems arise
Thank you for making and posting this video! It saved me and others alot of $$$. Few things I want to point out that wasn't mention in the video:
1)To disconnect the injector connectors- push the red locking tab upward until it clicks. Push the inverted "C" tab inward below the locking tab and pull the connector at the same time. This is tricky
2) The timing chain links orientation as follow - link#1 align with left camshaft dot, link#50 align with right camshaft dot and the crankgear dot is align between link#86 and 87. This is important if you're reusing your old timing chain like I did. I used paint to mark the links.
3)After you set your camshaft marker to 11 and 1 o'clock, make sure to remove the crankgear bolt out. Turning it counterclockwise to remove after you installed your timing chain can make skip a tooth or two and that would all mess up your timing - code P0019.
4)This can done without the camshaft tool. Just make sure you set the timing mark to 11 and 1 o'clock and paint your links before you remove the chain. You can use T55 torx bit to turn the camshaft and make little adjustments if you have to.
I will keep my crown Vic…wow great job Ford…insane work for just a water pump.
My first cost estimate for replacing the water pump only included prices of the pump and gaskets. But now... wow! I am so glad I watched this video ahead of time. I will be buying spark plugs, gasket maker, plastic ties, brake cleaner, pulley puller ... The little things obviously matter. For me, the cost of a mechanic would have exceeded the vehicles value. So I am willing to spend two relaxed weeks fixing my car. Thank you so much for making this video.
This is a great video thank you for the detailed and timely laid out steps, my one recommendation to all those watching this be extremely careful and double-check the torque specifications on the valve cover bolts, at 15 ft lb of torque it snapped a bolt head right off. If you are unsure I would highly recommend hand tightening the bolts without over torquing.
I could be wrong but I believe it should be 15 inch pounds instead of the labeled 15 foot pounds on the
Subscribed! This is the best mechanic video I’ve ever seen. Very thorough description of everything. 👏
Glad you liked it!
ive watched your video like 20 times, so i can learn exactly what to do, then i went to do the work and try to video it to show others ,,, i dont know how you made the video and worked on the car at the same time, hahahah,,,,,, i did say before you did an excellent job,,,, its been hard for me to video it and do the work,,,,, the injectors and removing the cables has been so far so hard to do without breaking them, i actually applied a little bit of wd40,,and it worked
It can be a little tricky holding the camera while working for sure.
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One how many days did it take you to complete it, and were you alone? im alone and i am at the part to remove the timing cover,,, i might have asked you many times before this , but i am only unsecured with the timing issue,, i have the camshaft holders , but i saw my marks at this time at 12 pm and 2pm, the bottom one i am not sure yet, but if they are not a 11 and 1 pm as with yours, do i move the crankshaft from the bottom to get to those points, please help, thank you
I was nervous about tackling this in my ford edge. But after seeing this I will definitely do it on my taurus!
how did it go? any issues?
Very limited space on the Ford edge... A lot easier to do this Job on the explorer. Ask me how I know lol. Getting ready to do it on a Taurus.
I haven’t even done it yet lol. It was Christmas time!!! Lemme know how it goes though because I’ll tackle it
On the Taurus, you will have to remove the fuel liner bracket and stuff it near the fender, drop the washer resivoir, and pull the ac line closer to the fender, this makes getting the cover out and in super easy
Your video is thoroughly detailed, clear & perfectly paced. By far the best "how-to" video I've seen. THANK YOU!!!
I'm glad you found it helpful!
Not sure if you will see this, however I felt the need to say it.... Thank you so much. You saved me $2500!!! This job is not for the weak of heart if you are inexperienced like me. The video guys is legit. Many problems you will encounter that are not covered in the video. But it gets you close enough to get it done. Be slow be though and organized. Great video.
Thank you bud im gonna use this as my guide i love that you include torque specs and cam locks required!
I also will be using guild pins at the top " V"
Thank you, your video worked perfect on a 2014 Explorer 3.5L NA.
Thank you so much!
You are welcome!
Before putting valve covers back on, ford recommends putting sealant on the left side of the engine, right after your video showing you razor scraping the old sealant off. Basically where the 'crack' is exposed on both surfaces and where the 2 pcs meet
Thank you for taking the time to record and post this video, very thorough and precise, I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and was ASE master certified, and this video was extremely helpful, especially with the tips for hidden fasteners. I just completed my 2016 Explorer water pump replacement, it took me two full days, but without you help it probably would have been 3 or 4 days. As many others have said, this is probably the best instructional video I have ever seen, many thanks to you sir, you are awesome!!!
Very detailed, much appreciated. I'm about to tackle this myself and this will help
Thanks, glad the video could help.
This is the best videos that I've seen on how to install a Ford water pump. Most people do their videos so fast that they are hard to follow!
Great video. Only thing I didn’t hear him say was. Before valve covers are installed put a dab of silicone where the timing cover meets the block on top of that seam. If not it will leak oil.
Correct. The explanation or application for that was missing.
Thanks so much man..
My wife has the 2017 exploder and water pump went before 77k miles along with the compressor..
your video has got me through step by step… Thanks so much again….
Do you have a list of parts and tools you purchased? We are about to tackle this on our 17 Explorer
I have an 18, what camshaft timing tool did you use?
Worked perfectly for my 2016 Taurus 3.5 NA, with the exception of the fuel line bracket which I unbolted and tucked behind the fender, the washer reservoir, which was keeping the ac line in the way, so unbolted washer resivor and dropped it a little and then bent the ac line towards the fender. Also found timing was off by one link. Engine runs super quite now! Didn’t even know it was out of timing and how much one link makes a difference. Great job! You have a donate page? Like to get you a beer or coffee!
How did you fix the timing??
While many others have said it, just want to thank you for such a thorough and well thought out video. This is surely a big job and I can’t believe that not only you did it but documented it so well.
El mejor video que he visto para poder cambiar la bomba de agua en mi explorer 2015 gracias por explicar de esa manera
I have no idea what Jose said, but I'm giving HIM a thumbs up just for watching. Well, I get the gist.
You know what loved the video definitely a big job but doable you actually helped me make $2,000 because someone i know wanted to take it to the shop i did it for half... So big thank you
Literally just fixed a neighbor's wife's 3.5L. never touched a Ford engine this deeply moreso with some improvising since it wasn't exactly 100% this same engine. Also never did anything regarding timing chain or pulley pullers etc but I've worked on cars and knew there had to be a thorough video for this. Saved my neighbor thousands cause I'm sure a certified mechanic would've tried to pull the engine for ease of access and charged a lot. 4 days of extensive work getting everything off and now a few more to clean and put everything together whhheewww what a job!! Thank you for this valuable knowledge you decided to share with the world!!! 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🫂🫂
I am just wrapping up this job myself and exclusively followed this video. Best I’ve seen and made me comfortable enough to tackle this myself. I already owned most of the needed tools, and there could be some variations of these tools to make it even easier. If you will do this job, have a small arsenal of tools at your disposal!
Your “kung fu” is truly strong my friend and by the way,if you really want complete access to the left of the engine(the closest to the windshield)you can remove the entire cowl assembly.
This is the best video on this subject I've seen and I've watched a few. I did find that after 20 minutes of trying to pick and pull the rear injector connection I put the tools away and reached back and put my thumb on the latch and pressed and pulled and it came right off! No tool needed. I went to the next one then the last one and I had unhooked all three injectors in less than 60 seconds. I'm almost ready to pull the cover if I can get the pulley off.
Just a heads up for anyone doing this. If your valve cover bolts don't look near perfect, it's probably best to just replace them. Mine looked pretty good aside from a bit of discoloration on a few. First bolt sheared right off, flush, before I even made it anywhere near the initial 177 in-lbs(~15 ft-lbs) and it was on the back side of the back bank. Luckily, because the torque on that bolt is so low, the bolt was able to be easily backed out with a left-hand drill bit and extraction bit. But drilling into metal near open valve covers, even with precautions taken to avoid metal shavings getting in, is risky business; as is drilling so close to an aluminum mating surface. One small slip and "some disassembly" would be required.
This is a fantastic resource. One note though - DO NOT use an "ugga dugga" impact gun to press the crank pulley back on. You run the risk of breaking the crank locating pin, as I did. Lesson learned. Instead buy a cheapo harmonic balancer installation tool. Then use a strap wrench to hold the pulley while you torque the crank bolt. That bolt is a single-use "Torque to yield", so use a new one and follow the proper 2-step torque procedure. Other than that, this is the best video for water pump / timing chain replacement without pulling the engine out of the vehicle. Thanks, CLS!
What a great video man good job
From a professional, great video. Anyone could do this correctly without any additional info. Alldata doesn't come close to what you provide. Thank you.
Holy hell. No wonder I was quoted $2,500 for this job. Props to all you mechanics out there. No way I could do all this.
As many mentioned, this is the best video. I will check under the engine next to the oil filter for a coolant leak. Hope it’s leaking so I can replace the pump using these instructions.