Ford Escort MK1 Restoration. Gearbox Adaptor Plate Part 2. MX5 NA to Zetec ST170
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- Опубликовано: 24 фев 2023
- We carry on with the adaptor plate project. This time we get the starter motor in place, the plate cut out and fitted and the gearbox attached to the engine.
Throughout the project we will build tools to help us along the way, the custom tools we build, we will upload our how-to videos
👉🏻 Subscribe to our channel ✅: / @davesgarageuk
📽️ Check out our recent Videos: / @davesgarageuk
🛠️By the way: Ade (a.k.a Adrian) also has a RUclips channel where him and his wife are converting a minibus to an off-grid camper: / @sammyadeadventures
#FordEscortMK1Restoration #DavesGarage #SammyAdeAdventures 
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theres only1 word to say fantastic all right 3 more words thanks for sharing
Wow, thank you!
Every video demonstrates, there are no problems only solutions.
Or put ever so slightly differently - No such thing as problems only solution opportunities 👍
"Above all.... it's a challenge" 😊😊😊🤣
You are a LEGEND ❤️🙏❤️🤝🫡
Thank you 😊
Another great video Dave your a dab hand with the plasma cutter! Adapter plate will work nicely with a little fettling mate
Thanks Mick 😊
Really enjoyed those two videos,your wasted working with gas Dave,nothing seems to faze you it's brilliant seeing you work around problems,and yes you could have bought a adapter plate,but it wouldn't have as much fun,great video mate.
Hi Alan, thanks pal 😊😊
Good stuff! I do a lot of similar mods and such. Love seeing others projects and plans of attack!
Yaki dah Dave. Still working on that conversion gear box plate is something else. Love how you kept the mistake in the video 👍🏻
I make many mistakes 🤣
Looking forward to you sorting out the clutch and fork assembly. 👌👍
You sir are a good example why I love RUclips 😊. Great work! Soon caught up on this build. Looking forward to watch the manta episodes 😁
I appreciate that!
great skills and patience. Keep it up !!!
your a clever man dave.
You are awesome! This works for soo many applications!!! And I'm a fan of ST170. That's how I stumbled upon your channel. Great work 👍
Awesome, thank you!
Lovely job dave
Good work patients of a saint 👍
You CAN move the gearstick. There are videos on RUclips of other people doing it.
Brilliant, I'll have a look for them 👍👍
Nice.
nice job dave your are a very clever man well done neat idea about the gear stick i never thouht you cound do it that way
Thanks Robert 😊
Great job dave, it's so go watching ur video because I learn so much from them!, just wish I had all the gear to do these jobs
Glad you like them Neil, thank you 😊
Looking good spent hours and hours doing the same thing when use to build 2L stock cars years ago. Theirs always a way round a problem then you got to sort the next part to fit. Keep going Dave will come together in the end 👍
Thanks Sid, there's no problems, just challenges 😊😊
Another cracking job Dave, I must admit I was saying Dave use some oil, you must’ve heard me cause no sooner had I said it you blob on some oil lol 😅
I could feel the weight of all my lovely subscribers watching me do it wrong 🤣🤣
This has been amazing Dave , I can’t drive a manual anymore unfortunately and I was trying to figure out ( bearing in mind I’m no mechanic) how to go about adapting an auto box to an escort 55 diesel van I’m going to restore ,my first thoughts were to replace the whole engine and box together with a mk1 focus unit but now you’ve got my creative juices flowing ! Great work my friend thanks 👍
Thank you mate. I presume the van is a Mk3/4 55? Couldn't you use an auto box from the car? Or was there no such diesel auto version?
@@DavesGarageuk that’s a good point I shall do some more homework as i haven’t got a clue mate im a complete novice at this im finding my feet lol 👍
i wouldn't advise welding so close to a battery old chap, i have had a lorry battery blow up on me and wouldn't want to repeat the experience. believe me they go with a BANG.
Oooff, thanks for the heads up, I'll stop doing that.
Awesome, how did you do it . Thanks for all the great videos. Infinite thumbs up 👍
👍
Noicely done. You should ask clutch shops or Motorsport shops if there's a hybrid clutch plate to offer up, Mazda 3, 6 duratec maybe. Years ago I took in a blacktop zetec clutch to get the spline swapped out for a Celica 5sp spline, was really cheap at $30 !!
Great job Dave 👍
Thanks Marty, that's a very good shout 👏
Following with interest as there is no adaptor available for my proposed conversion. One comment, unless I missed something, the dowels are used for accurate location and as such they take the torque load, not the bolts although of course they clamp. So the dowels should be a snug fit.
Thanks for this, it's something I need to revisit
Nice job, nearly there with mating the gearbox and engine, hope the clutch arrangement proves to be a good match with the Mondeo parts coming.
I'm looking forward to the selector modification now you've mentioned what you think is possible to do to move it forwards.
Still in the thinking about it stage, but it seems to me, the gear stick assembly is removable, and I can't see why it can't be chopped and relocated... watch this space while I turn a perfectly good gearbox into scrap 🤣
You definitely can move the gearbox shifter forward, I did it years ago on a Mazda rx7 series 4/5 gearbox to fit into a series 1 rx7. The tail shift assemble looks almost identical to your mx5 gearbox.
Good news, thank you 😊
I used the full internals out of a Mazda 626 rear wheel drive gear box in a series 2 RX7 housing when a roll pin wouldn't stay in the selector fork the main difference was the input shaft shank and the Speedo drive gear.
Too much speed on a 22mm drill. Slow speed and constant pressure will preserve your bit and cut faster too. If you have a drill press that’s the kiddy to use Dave.
Thanks Steve, I'll remember that for next time 👍
Love watching your videos, really well explained and informative.just a quick question, will the new engine effect the historic status of your car?
Nope, because it's still a four pot in line, if I changed to v8 or v6 then no
That's really interesting to know. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Nice bit of progress. Have you tried to loosen the top bolts a bit to get all the bolts in before tightening? And how did you make sure the input shaft aligns with the crank? Can't remember if you showed it in the previous video or not.
Hi Tom, input shaft does line up, the input shaft center was my starting point. Once I've worked out the spigot bearing arrangement, that will center the box, hopefully...😊
Dave you are a genius what hole saw cutter would you recommend for 2mm sheet steel I tried those that are supposed to cut plaster board and metal but only make a mark they don’t actually cut the metal
Starett hole saw bi-metalic, with oil, very good, expensive, but they actually work. I've been cutting through nails in floor boards for years with them 🤣
Thee rear end of the old and newer engine in Ford. Zetec 1.8 - 2.0 and the newer one Duratech small in Focus and big in Mondeo and even in some pickup as 2.5. What is the different, is the Zetec with a Ford rear end and the duratec with a Mazda rears?.
But the gearbox from RX8 dose it fit to a Duratec........
Yes, that's correct
Great job with the adapter, shortening down the gear easy, I did this on my MK1 Cortina.
If you were to produce any more adapters , I would certainly be interested in one.
nobody produces adapters for the Mazda MX5 MK1 box, only the later boxes
Good to know someone else has done this. I'd it works, I'll keep you in mind. Ta.
@@DavesGarageuk can send you a pic of shortened shifter if you like 👍
@@Hollytrees yep, that would be great, I'm on Instagram as daves_garage_youtube
Dave this is coming on really well. Have you had any thoughts on dialling in the bellhousing for concentricity. This would be far easier if the bellhousing was seperate but essentially is about alligning the engine and gearbox shaft centres to within < .005" of runout. There are lots of videos on this (the one I watched was by Holley). This is usually done more easily where the bellhousing is detachable and is done with a dial test indicator attached to the crank or flywhwheel and measures the run-out to the inner locating diameter in the gearbox end of the bellhousing, errors are divided by 2 and corrected with offset machined dowels.
I'll have a look into thar, thank you
@@DavesGarageuk Dave, it would be possible to make a small hole in the side of the bellhousing to insert an extended dti spindle on to the flywheel end of the first motion shaft with the gearbox and engine coupled and spiggot bush made and installed without clutch. By turning the crank you could see how far the 1st motion shaft was being pulled off centre by the crank, a bit like setting up a spindle in a 4 jaw chuck. Either by slotting holes in adaptor or if close just by using slack in the boltholes, you could partially loosen and tap in eiter plane untill the clock (dti) reads less than 5 thou deflection and then drill and use mills pins to dowel the addaptor and bellhousing together so that they will always re align in the same place. Thinking about it you would need to dowel the adaptor plate to the block before you started the alignment so that (that) was a fixed datum i.e. not variable.
There is no way of knowing at the moment how misaligned the crank and gear box will be, but if unlucky you could destroy the gearbox 1st motion shaft bearing in short order as is far less well supported than the crank and you woud have to tear out the engine and box from the finished car to do an alignment anyway. Please understand I am trying to be constructive and in no way am I picking holes in what you are doing. What you are doing is awesome!!
@Neil Jarvis that's a brilliant idea, thank you, please keep it up, I'm willing and open to constructive help. Thank you 😊
@@DavesGarageuk Hope it made sense? One point I missed is that you will have to do measurements in two planes i.e. horizontal and vertical. That will mean putting in a second hole for the dti spindle, so one at 12 o'clock and one at 3 or 9 o'clock. Having adjusted the run out in the vertical plane you could put in a mills pin at or near 12 o'clock and then pivot about that to achieve horizontal alignment left or right, nip up the bolts, re check vertical run out and if still good, put a mills pin on either left or right side.That way it will be correctly aligned every time its bolted up.
So you have somewhere to attach a dti mag base, you could drill into the bellhousing and put in a nut and bolt with a liitle 2" square of that 6mm plate offcuts welded to it, ideally 2 off - for mounting at the 12 and 3 o'clock positions. You could make little round 1/8" thick ally plates with a M5 screw tapped into the bellhousing to cover the 4 holes afterwards (unless you have access to an AC Tig set to fill them in). Tell me when youve had enough of my wittering🤣......
@Neil Jarvis this is all good stuff, thank you so much for sharing this 👍👍
Hi Dave enjoying the content very much as I'm in the process of rebuilding my own Mk1. Would it be possible to give me a measurement between the two rear door pillars at the sill height as I didn't brace it before I chopped stuff out? Thanks
Next time I'm in the garage I'll measure that up for you, it's surprising how much they can move isn't it!!
@@DavesGarageuk thanks Dave, yes it is, I've probably got an inch of movement
Will you adopt me ‘Dad’? 😄😄😄
🤣🤣
I need to stop watching other people doing their own projects and finish mine