Beginner surfer here. Surfing Kata Beach Thailand yesterday. Waves were inconsistent and couldn’t catch a wave while the day before it was very consistent. The professional surf instructor about 20 feet away was having the same problem. He just said, “It’s the ocean. We don’t control the ocean.” Everyday on the surfboard isn’t a wasted day. Always learn something…like patience. Beside, you can always turn to RUclips for expert advice. Thanks buddy.
I'm always a bit too far on the shoulder, I think it's because there are usually so many people sitting right by the peak and it kinda intimidates me lol! Great advice!! I will put it into practice!
Erika, every surfer goes thru that stage. At some point you gotta just paddle into that gaggle of surfers. Smile, be nice, complement people on thier good rides, and appologize when you mess up. With that, you'll make friends and it'll all be cool. Have fun!!!
I’m no guru, but I have found that on most days, only 20 percent of the crowd really knows what they’re doing. It gets a lot less crowded when you realize 30% are content to just to be in the water, 30% can’t catch a wave, etc…
Great advice for us middle age surfers who've come back after a 20+ year gap! You've some fantastic small waves over there on the East Coast, look amazing fun. All the best from Cornwall England
Another good video - with good advice. Often times we (me) sit to far out or on the shoulder. I know I am doing it but I convince myself I can paddle into the wave - wrong! After a bad surfing day, I decide to use some of your surfing strategies. The following day I went with a plan: position myself closer to the peak, be patient - wait for the wave to develop, and angle the board looking down the line. Surfing conditions were not good that day, 7-8 second period with fast developing waves, closeouts and 4-5 lines of white water. But I stuck to my plan. I got tossed sometimes but majority of the times I was able to hold the inside rail into the wave and reach escape velocity 🙂 down the line to avoid being closed out. I was hesitant about trying these techniques in the steep part of the wave, which is close to or at the peak. I was convinced this was the shortboard realm but I discovered it can also be surfed on a longboard. Thanks again for your support. Cheers from down under.
Awesome Jack! So happy that you decided to go for it. I was in the same boat as you when it comes to cross stepping and noseriding. I thought there is NO WAY it can be done in the critical part of the wave. Turns out that's exactly where you have to be. It's also fairly easy to stay in the critical section the more you get used to it.. and that's where the fun and the speed is!
Great video and advice. Seems for ever some what obviously thing like how to paddle there are several subtle things going on as well. Often these things are difficult to explain. Well done here.
Thanks for the tips I’m still a beginner and heading to intermediate and I ride a soft top but this helps anyone and thanks so much for the content that keeps me up on my feet!👍
haha I think the shifting aspect is unfixable.... I can spend 9 grand on a new transmission but it aint worth it. I'll drive it till it's dead at this point lol
Good tips. If I were younger I'd be paddling around all the time. If I could turn and burn I'd catch a lot more waves. Note regarding landmarks: I need to line up two landmarks on the shore. Something like "I'm straight out from that house" can be very imprecise.
Billy mentioned the same thing about two landmarks. That's a great idea. One has always worked for me, but that could be due to what our beaches look like. It's probably easier to get lost at certain breaks
For Anchor Points... I call it Triangulation; Use a spacific landmark in the foreground and then another in the background (e.g. a palm tree on the beach, and the chimney of a particular house on the hill 1/2 mile away). That will keep you accurately in the right spot. 🙂
@@angelinadobler79 is that true? I thought it was because you are litterally lining up in order of priority. Or at least that's how it was in the early days, no?
Anchor points to hold your position is clutch. Especially with the side shore currents we get after nor’easters and such. Actually a seamanship tactic when anchoring a boat. Simple stuff that works.
firstly they are called lineups and if you dont have 2 on the land you cant line then up to stay in position. A single point is noob kookary and poor advice@@LongboardSessions
This is really good advice I can’t even stand up on my board b/c I was stupid and got a 5’8 board it’s really small and thin and I haven’t been able to stand up but I’ll definitely use this once I’m able to stand up
Thanks! Yea a 5'8" is a hard board to learn on. However, that's what I learned on. I would have progressed twice as fast on a bigger board though. If you can get your hands on a 8' foam board that would be perfect to learn on!
There's a steep learning curve learning on a board like that. You need to do many things right very quickly right as the wave is breaking. It can sure be done, but a 7-8 foot fun board style makes ever easier
For me, wave selection starts at the beach. 1) Look for the peek. 2) I count the wave in a set. 3) I time the complete wave set. 4) I let the set finish out before I paddle out.5) Most of the time I have dry hair in the line-up. As for position we all want to peek left or right but it is already taken, then get in line or wait for a failed take-off paddle toward the breaking wave and carve into I or simply wait for your turn. Thats the way I have done it for 50 years.
You are describing whats called "great etiquette". Very well said. I'm against localism for the most part, but at the same time people do need to learn to be respectful and surf like you're describing
Great video. Thanks a lot. I al always afraid to go for the peak where the crowd is at and with this all pros. The peak is sometimes so high that I am afraid it breaks on me. I guess this is the biggest problem I have. Do you have any advice?
I mean, I generally stay away from the crowds as well. I always try and find an uncrowded peak hehe. Best advice I can give is get out as much as you can and try not to let the crowd bother you
new surfers stages of surfing 1)you will buy the wrong board on the first "real board" purchase -we all do 2) you will immediately be assessed on your paddling, board position, and confidence, (no one knows you) but they are watching you-do not use the term "I'm frothing" or engage people that you do not know in conversation. They will paddle away and you'll be saddled with the dreaded "K" word-a simple nod and" hey" is sufficient 3) choose your wave according to your real, not imaginary, ability.no one cares if you're a new surfer, but if you're blowing make able set waves that's a problem.If someone compliments your ride just say "thank you, that was a really fun wave", period the end. 5) if you burn someone apologize immediately and don't do it again 6) in 5-10 years you'll somewhat know what you're doing -maybe. 7) best of luck and have fun!
I sometimes purposely let everyone in the lineup rush for a bump, while I wait outside for the next bump to come to me and Iʻm all by myself to snag the wave :D works well in a few spots I surf at!
@@LongboardSessions haha saves me some energy for paddling into my waves! Thanks for the great videos, best longboarding explanation videos with real examples in the game!
Binge watching all your videos before each sessions! As a beginner, who can takeoff, turn etc. But really wants to deep dive into longboarding, would you recommend the catch surf noserider? I'm really looking for a foamy/soft top.
Awesome! Wow, I didn't even know about that board.. it looks amazing for stepping into the noseriding world. The only thing I would say: If you're already fairly experienced, I'd go straight to a real traditional fiberglass longboard. However, if you still struggle catching and riding waves, that board looks amazing
Awesome videos. I’m in love with longboarding although i never try it. I surf shortboards and midlengths (single fin) for 8 years, often beach breaks. I'm 40 years old, 165lb, i used to surf at least once a week, and now i want to try longboarding (cross steping and nose riding) for summer small days. What are the dimensions of your Chingona? With your experience, what size of board should i try? Keep up the good work
Hey if you want a board specifically for nose riding the best dimensions is around 9'2 - 9'8 with around 23" width and minimum board rocker... It can vary a bit but I personally prefer surfing my 9'4 with 23" width, square tail for the best nose riding in small to medium waves...
@@patricionunes2685 thanks! I’m not an expert on board size, but a 9’6” would probably be perfect. Best thing to do is to reach out to the board company and ask them for a recommendation. Considering you want this board for smaller days, I wouldn’t go much smaller than a 9’6”. I currently ride a 9’6” and I’m 5’4” 130 lbs. A 9’2” to 9’4” would be more suitable for me
You got a quick tube 😂 yessah, yes you were deep but your angle and drive slightly adjusted would've made it...wow you really have improved, some of those peaks were so clean and awesome...
Where do you surf!!! I live in New York. These waves look like a long boarders dream. I know it’s poor taste to share your spots but I want to surf with you 🥺
I seem to often be too deep but then I always though being at the peak is being deep? I kinda get confused now cos often get waves but they do crash on me a bit quick so how close to the peak do we sit then 😅
Well it's different for every wave. Sometimes the peak is no good because the wave is breaking too fast. In those cases, taking off farther on the shoulder is a must. Sometimes the wave peels perfectly from the peak and then taking off at the peak is perfect. It helps to look at the ocean for 15 minutes before you jump in. Take note of the speed of the waves and where you think a good spot to 'start' on the wave would be .
I think at 2:34 instead of stalling you could have maybe took a pump, I think you were in the perfect stop, just grabbed rail and stalled a little too much. Good video though
Reason #1 -- I'm not in such great physical condition..... Reason #2 -- I'm old and my body is a patchwork of scar tissue and arthritis.... Reason #3 -- I've been out of the line up too long.
@@LongboardSessions I sometimes try to imagine pros living here for a month and see what they make of the mashy chaos that is the north sea and beach breaks... Good thing we have France nearby tho :)
Know your beaches! Driving from beach to beach is waisted time. If you know your beaches and the swell direction and the wind(of cause) you don't need to waist fuel and time.
Very true! However, the breaks in NJ change as storms hit the beach and change the sand bars. Considering swell direction, wind, tide, period etc... its rare that a place breaks the same every time. But keeping a log of what the conditions were when there are good waves at a certain spot.. thats a good move. Makes checking the waves much quicker lol
@@LongboardSessions Sand moves with swell direction. Fine sand bottom moves slower than coarse. Small swell moves the banks in and big swell moves them to seaward. Check you beaches after your surf to anticipate the next....you will eventually know without the tour.😎🤙
Small nitpick. There’s no such thing as a “rip tide”. Tides are caused by the moon’s gravitational pull on the earth. Rip currents are caused by water that is forced onto the beach by waves trying to find the path of least resistance back out to sea through the deeper channels of the ground beneath the ocean. Usually between sandbars or reefs. Source: 10 years as a state lifeguard
Also when picking a landmark, it helps to know the direction of the long shore current (usually the same as the dominant swell direction). This will give you an idea of what direction you’ll need to be gradually paddling against to stay in place.
100% correct on the nomenclature, also 100% a losing battle trying to get people to say current. Unfortunately, the news a) constantly calls them rip tides, and b) never reports on them BEFORE people die, only afterwards.
Hey I absolutely love your videos great tips and chilled vibe Do you have an email address I could send some pics and videos to for more help on what I do ?
Beginner surfer here. Surfing Kata Beach Thailand yesterday. Waves were inconsistent and couldn’t catch a wave while the day before it was very consistent. The professional surf instructor about 20 feet away was having the same problem. He just said, “It’s the ocean. We don’t control the ocean.” Everyday on the surfboard isn’t a wasted day. Always learn something…like patience. Beside, you can always turn to RUclips for expert advice. Thanks buddy.
You got it! So true, you always learn something when you get in the water.
I'm always a bit too far on the shoulder, I think it's because there are usually so many people sitting right by the peak and it kinda intimidates me lol! Great advice!! I will put it into practice!
Erika, every surfer goes thru that stage. At some point you gotta just paddle into that gaggle of surfers. Smile, be nice, complement people on thier good rides, and appologize when you mess up. With that, you'll make friends and it'll all be cool. Have fun!!!
Thanks! I actually love taking off on the shoulder and fading the takeoff... anything to avoid the crowds haha
This is where im at right now. I get significantly less waves because I hate surfing near others.
Agreed
I’m no guru, but I have found that on most days, only 20 percent of the crowd really knows what they’re doing. It gets a lot less crowded when you realize 30% are content to just to be in the water, 30% can’t catch a wave, etc…
Another tip I learned for finding set waves on offshore days. Watch for pelicans ridge gliding on the outside. A very reliable indicator.
haha nice! Great idea
Absolutely spot on!
Probably the best and simplest explanation I’ve heard on this topic.
Great to hear Ken! I struggled writing it cause it's just not easy to explain some of the concepts lol
Great advice for us middle age surfers who've come back after a 20+ year gap! You've some fantastic small waves over there on the East Coast, look amazing fun. All the best from Cornwall England
Thanks! Yea we can get some good waves over here... it's fairly rare though. But when its working.. its good!
Dziękujemy.
Thanks so much!!!
this made me chuckle, in the Netherlands we consider ourself lucky if the surf is even clean.
haha! Yea NJ gets pretty good.. but it ain't california
Dude, your editing just keeps getting better and better!
Thanks so much! Getting lots of practice haha
Great to meet you at the Hook. Have a great visit.
Likewise! Maybe i'll see you out there one of these days. Here till end of march
Another good video - with good advice. Often times we (me) sit to far out or on the shoulder. I know I am doing it but I convince myself I can paddle into the wave - wrong! After a bad surfing day, I decide to use some of your surfing strategies. The following day I went with a plan: position myself closer to the peak, be patient - wait for the wave to develop, and angle the board looking down the line. Surfing conditions were not good that day, 7-8 second period with fast developing waves, closeouts and 4-5 lines of white water. But I stuck to my plan. I got tossed sometimes but majority of the times I was able to hold the inside rail into the wave and reach escape velocity 🙂 down the line to avoid being closed out. I was hesitant about trying these techniques in the steep part of the wave, which is close to or at the peak. I was convinced this was the shortboard realm but I discovered it can also be surfed on a longboard. Thanks again for your support. Cheers from down under.
Awesome Jack! So happy that you decided to go for it. I was in the same boat as you when it comes to cross stepping and noseriding. I thought there is NO WAY it can be done in the critical part of the wave. Turns out that's exactly where you have to be. It's also fairly easy to stay in the critical section the more you get used to it.. and that's where the fun and the speed is!
Also, will you be here for the summer again?
@@LongboardSessions Yes - late home this year though. Back in USA August 5th until end of October 🙂
@@jackd6184 Excellent.. right in the wave season 🤙
Great video and advice. Seems for ever some what obviously thing like how to paddle there are several subtle things going on as well. Often these things are difficult to explain. Well done here.
Thanks!! Yea some ideas in surfing are not easy to explain… especially the ones that seem to only get better with experience
Thanks, man! I don't ride longboards because they don't fit in the bus, but your videos are still really useful
haha I hear ya. They are darn big. Glad you still find the videos helpful!
Thanks for the tips I’m still a beginner and heading to intermediate and I ride a soft top but this helps anyone and thanks so much for the content that keeps me up on my feet!👍
Great to hear! Glad I can give you some motivation... surfing is hard lol!
They’re great tips!
Really helpful advice Brian, thanks. Hope your truck gets fixed too!
I loved the hammer/truck sceene!
haha I think the shifting aspect is unfixable.... I can spend 9 grand on a new transmission but it aint worth it. I'll drive it till it's dead at this point lol
Good tips. If I were younger I'd be paddling around all the time. If I could turn and burn I'd catch a lot more waves.
Note regarding landmarks: I need to line up two landmarks on the shore. Something like "I'm straight out from that house" can be very imprecise.
Billy mentioned the same thing about two landmarks. That's a great idea. One has always worked for me, but that could be due to what our beaches look like. It's probably easier to get lost at certain breaks
For Anchor Points... I call it Triangulation; Use a spacific landmark in the foreground and then another in the background (e.g. a palm tree on the beach, and the chimney of a particular house on the hill 1/2 mile away). That will keep you accurately in the right spot. 🙂
Great idea haha! It's just another aspect of surfing people don't think about in the beginning
Literally why it’s called a lineup
@@angelinadobler79 is that true? I thought it was because you are litterally lining up in order of priority. Or at least that's how it was in the early days, no?
Anchor points to hold your position is clutch. Especially with the side shore currents we get after nor’easters and such. Actually a seamanship tactic when anchoring a boat. Simple stuff that works.
Yes absolutely! You don't realize how much you can be drifting... sometimes it requires almost constant paddling
firstly they are called lineups and if you dont have 2 on the land you cant line then up to stay in position. A single point is noob kookary and poor advice@@LongboardSessions
This is really good advice I can’t even stand up on my board b/c I was stupid and got a 5’8 board it’s really small and thin and I haven’t been able to stand up but I’ll definitely use this once I’m able to stand up
Thanks! Yea a 5'8" is a hard board to learn on. However, that's what I learned on. I would have progressed twice as fast on a bigger board though. If you can get your hands on a 8' foam board that would be perfect to learn on!
@@LongboardSessions ok thanks for the advice
There's a steep learning curve learning on a board like that. You need to do many things right very quickly right as the wave is breaking.
It can sure be done, but a 7-8 foot fun board style makes ever easier
@@michaelburk9171 well said
Great tips and video! Keep up the great work!
Thanks Tony! will do
For me, wave selection starts at the beach. 1) Look for the peek. 2) I count the wave in a set. 3) I time the complete wave set. 4) I let the set finish out before I paddle out.5) Most of the time I have dry hair in the line-up. As for position we all want to peek left or right but it is already taken, then get in line or wait for a failed take-off paddle toward the breaking wave and carve into I or simply wait for your turn. Thats the way I have done it for 50 years.
You are describing whats called "great etiquette". Very well said. I'm against localism for the most part, but at the same time people do need to learn to be respectful and surf like you're describing
This was incredibly helpful. I really appreciate it!
Awesome thanks! You got it🤙
Awesome video. Really helpful for a total novice like me!
Sweet thanks Matthew! Glad it helps🤙
The first video that shows how to 'read' the waves!
Hope it helps!🤙
Really helpful, thanks!
you got it!
Great video. Thanks a lot. I al always afraid to go for the peak where the crowd is at and with this all pros. The peak is sometimes so high that I am afraid it breaks on me. I guess this is the biggest problem I have. Do you have any advice?
I mean, I generally stay away from the crowds as well. I always try and find an uncrowded peak hehe. Best advice I can give is get out as much as you can and try not to let the crowd bother you
really good advice !! big like!
Thanks so much!
new surfers stages of surfing 1)you will buy the wrong board on the first "real board" purchase -we all do 2) you will immediately be assessed on your paddling, board position, and confidence, (no one knows you) but they are watching you-do not use the term "I'm frothing" or engage people that you do not know in conversation. They will paddle away and you'll be saddled with the dreaded "K" word-a simple nod and" hey" is sufficient 3) choose your wave according to your real, not imaginary, ability.no one cares if you're a new surfer, but if you're blowing make able set waves that's a problem.If someone compliments your ride just say "thank you, that was a really fun wave", period the end. 5) if you burn someone apologize immediately and don't do it again 6) in 5-10 years you'll somewhat know what you're doing -maybe. 7) best of luck and have fun!
So true that you are immediately assessed. That's the first thing that happens when you paddle out... and we look at paddling first lol
Awesome content man , super helpful . I'm in my 40s and learning to surf . You clearly pointed out my problems and how to fix . Thank you ☺️
Thanks so much! Hope it helps
I sometimes purposely let everyone in the lineup rush for a bump, while I wait outside for the next bump to come to me and Iʻm all by myself to snag the wave :D works well in a few spots I surf at!
Yea that's a great move haha! I kinda work the same way.. typically I take the waves no one wants or no one sees
@@LongboardSessions haha saves me some energy for paddling into my waves! Thanks for the great videos, best longboarding explanation videos with real examples in the game!
Binge watching all your videos before each sessions! As a beginner, who can takeoff, turn etc. But really wants to deep dive into longboarding, would you recommend the catch surf noserider? I'm really looking for a foamy/soft top.
Awesome! Wow, I didn't even know about that board.. it looks amazing for stepping into the noseriding world. The only thing I would say: If you're already fairly experienced, I'd go straight to a real traditional fiberglass longboard. However, if you still struggle catching and riding waves, that board looks amazing
Awesome videos. I’m in love with longboarding although i never try it. I surf shortboards and midlengths (single fin) for 8 years, often beach breaks. I'm 40 years old, 165lb, i used to surf at least once a week, and now i want to try longboarding (cross steping and nose riding) for summer small days. What are the dimensions of your Chingona? With your experience, what size of board should i try?
Keep up the good work
Hey if you want a board specifically for nose riding the best dimensions is around 9'2 - 9'8 with around 23" width and minimum board rocker... It can vary a bit but I personally prefer surfing my 9'4 with 23" width, square tail for the best nose riding in small to medium waves...
@@adeneda8924 thanks 🤙🏻
@@patricionunes2685 thanks! I’m not an expert on board size, but a 9’6” would probably be perfect. Best thing to do is to reach out to the board company and ask them for a recommendation. Considering you want this board for smaller days, I wouldn’t go much smaller than a 9’6”. I currently ride a 9’6” and I’m 5’4” 130 lbs. A 9’2” to 9’4” would be more suitable for me
thanks i learned a lot from you. just a heads up, your endcards on this video isnt showing
Thanks tyler! Oh weird... I'll try and see what's going on
@@LongboardSessions I just watched again on the RUclips app on my phone and it worked!
You got a quick tube 😂 yessah, yes you were deep but your angle and drive slightly adjusted would've made it...wow you really have improved, some of those peaks were so clean and awesome...
I can't get over the empty waves, and no crowds. Awesome.
haha a very quick barrel! Thanks so much!
Yea that's one of the best parts about NJ. Pretty easy to avoid crowds.. and that's my goal haha
Where in NJ is this? Always looking for a longboard spot!
It's in the monmouth county area. Message me on insta @longboard_sessions and I can tell you a few decent places
Good tips
Thanks!
Where do you surf!!! I live in New York. These waves look like a long boarders dream. I know it’s poor taste to share your spots but I want to surf with you 🥺
haha! Yea people get mad if I share the spots😉. I actually live in Jackson... about 25 minutes from the beach.
I seem to often be too deep but then I always though being at the peak is being deep? I kinda get confused now cos often get waves but they do crash on me a bit quick so how close to the peak do we sit then 😅
Well it's different for every wave. Sometimes the peak is no good because the wave is breaking too fast. In those cases, taking off farther on the shoulder is a must. Sometimes the wave peels perfectly from the peak and then taking off at the peak is perfect. It helps to look at the ocean for 15 minutes before you jump in. Take note of the speed of the waves and where you think a good spot to 'start' on the wave would be .
@@LongboardSessions thank you 🙏
hello Brian! where is the place at 4:33?
Most likely a monmouth county spot!
thanks super helpful
You got it!
I love your personality lol 😂
haha thanks!!
more details for kick out plz ??
I'll make a video on that for sure
thx big love from TAIWAN
I think at 2:34 instead of stalling you could have maybe took a pump, I think you were in the perfect stop, just grabbed rail and stalled a little too much. Good video though
Thanks! Possibly, but you can see that the rest of the wave was real fast as well... i woulda had to been charging haha!
Reason #1 -- I'm not in such great physical condition..... Reason #2 -- I'm old and my body is a patchwork of scar tissue and arthritis.... Reason #3 -- I've been out of the line up too long.
haha Oh no!! Arthritis sucks. I'm getting my hip replaced in a month bleh
Problem number 4: living in Belgium.
haha! Sorry I missed that one😉
@@LongboardSessions I sometimes try to imagine pros living here for a month and see what they make of the mashy chaos that is the north sea and beach breaks... Good thing we have France nearby tho :)
I bet you they would surprise you how well they manage it. They wouldn't like it, but they would make the most of it for sure.
Know your beaches! Driving from beach to beach is waisted time. If you know your beaches and the swell direction and the wind(of cause) you don't need to waist fuel and time.
Very true! However, the breaks in NJ change as storms hit the beach and change the sand bars. Considering swell direction, wind, tide, period etc... its rare that a place breaks the same every time.
But keeping a log of what the conditions were when there are good waves at a certain spot.. thats a good move. Makes checking the waves much quicker lol
@@LongboardSessions Sand moves with swell direction. Fine sand bottom moves slower than coarse. Small swell moves the banks in and big swell moves them to seaward.
Check you beaches after your surf to anticipate the next....you will eventually know without the tour.😎🤙
The water is so dirty lol
Eh it's not that bad. Good ol jersey brown water haha
Lmao u think I can stand up on my board???
haha! Yea you gotta get that down first😉
Small nitpick. There’s no such thing as a “rip tide”. Tides are caused by the moon’s gravitational pull on the earth. Rip currents are caused by water that is forced onto the beach by waves trying to find the path of least resistance back out to sea through the deeper channels of the ground beneath the ocean. Usually between sandbars or reefs.
Source: 10 years as a state lifeguard
Also when picking a landmark, it helps to know the direction of the long shore current (usually the same as the dominant swell direction). This will give you an idea of what direction you’ll need to be gradually paddling against to stay in place.
We call those channels and look for them before we paddle out. At some spots it's like a flying carpet!
Ahh yes you're right. I remember someone telling me that before.. it must not have sunk in haha!
100% correct on the nomenclature, also 100% a losing battle trying to get people to say current.
Unfortunately, the news a) constantly calls them rip tides, and b) never reports on them BEFORE people die, only afterwards.
Clean your camera dude.
Don’t tell me how to live my life. See you soon 😉
Hey I absolutely love your videos great tips and chilled vibe
Do you have an email address I could send some pics and videos to for more help on what I do ?
Thanks so much! Message me on Instagram @longboard_sessions .