3 Reasons You Struggle Paddling Out on a Longboard
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- Опубликовано: 20 янв 2022
- Paddling out into the lineup is one of the first skills you have to learn as a longboard surfer. However, it's NOT EASY! It takes time and practice to perfect and in this video I share some of the most common mistakes I see. Enjoy!
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Turtle Roll Hint: when upside-down push the board forward over your head. The motion will naturally force the nose down (do to the inverted nose rocker). Then as the wave passes it will push the board gently back to its original position. 🙂
Yes! Wish I can add this to the video... but sadly what's done is done haha
I learned the hard way 😂
Push over head means just move the board up parallel w ur body right?
@@dennisgordon7767 higher. Grab the rails, flip over just before the wave and "shove it forward" hands should go from say at your chest (when youu grab it) to 6"-8" above your head. ....they will settle back to chest-ish position simply by the force of the wave. -- do it! 😉🙂
How do I keep the water out of my nose when I turtle
Paddling Out/Positioning Tip: surfing is about efficiency. ...Don't forget your board was built to "glide". So, let the board glide for one second between strokes. Over the course of a multi hour session you will save a lot of strokes and thus a lot of energy!
Interesting thought! I never do that... and i'm often tired hahaha. The only times I do that are when im already exhausted and can't physically keep paddling
Good tip, we often forget that surfboards with a underside concave nose and flat back are designed to be a planing hull. The faster they move , the more lift they provide. So if you are in the trim spot on your board , a deep and slow paddle stroke helps you “grab the water” pull and begin to glide. I often see older experienced surfers motoring through the surf with apparent little or no effort. A work in progress for me, still trying to relax, and feel my board consistently.
@@jackdoughty4238 Totally. I find that finding the center of the board is one of the most important parts when it comes to getting a good glide. Pretty much as far forward as I can get while still being comfortable.
@@LongboardSessions You can always grab hold of a short boarders leg rope and get towed out!!!!😉 Seriously though paddling technique is the key to enjoying your surfing (even at 15 degrees F or in our terms -9 Degrees C) and staying out longer. I find paddling with long arm strokes and bringing your hands down beside and under the board works for me to get the glide. Also you're board length is one dimension but width will add to the surface area for waves to push you around. Once again great vid and advice with comments to match!
Spot on, stroke 2,3,4, stroke...
and your weight just behind the point of nose dip.
I have been surfing (shortboard) for exactly 40 years now. Your tips are solid and your video edits are really good too.
Thanks so much! Wow 40 years! that's awesome man.
I can't tell you how great it is to find your channel. I've been literally trying to find exactly what your channel does. Thanks for sharing your journey. Great quality of filming too.
Cheers 🙌🌊
wow thanks so much! glad I can fill the void 😂
Good advice. When the Shore gets big, taking your time, using your experience, and finding the cracks are the most reliable methods for pushing a longboard through the walls of white water. Timing, observation, and patience. Experience will teach you what you need to know. Here are three more techniques to help. Scoot up to the front or the board and push the nose, and yourself (head down) into the water as deeply as you can while hooking your feet under the board. Or, jump off the board and grab the nose under one arm and submerge as best you can - easy and reliable. Lastly, you can duck dive a longboard - do a push up toward the nose while driving one rail deeper (on a slant) into the water and pushing the tail down with your feet. As the soup hits, drop onto and hug the board. It works. All will save real estate. Practicing these things is time well spent. Sometimes you have to bail - proximity to the impact zone and experience will help you sort out what is best when. Beginners - never paddle out behind another surfer. Fan out. Be safe.
Great points! Especially the part about not paddling out behind someone.. that's a disaster waiting to happen. Grabbing the nose is also a really good technique
My fear was thinking someone is coming at me through the soup as i duck down but that doesn’t happen right?
Excellent advice! I finally learned to go out halfway, time the sets and go out during a lull. I use the channels; they are far from the peak, so it's safer as well because I'm less likely to get hit by another surfer. Doing these two things completely changed my surfing experience. Enjoy!
Oh thats great to hear! Timing the sets can help a lot.
@@LongboardSessions Your advice really helped me. Thanks for posting this video!
It is so nice to come across this video. Today, a few hours ago, even having a few years of experience with that, I asked a guy on the beach: "how do you do to cross the waves?" And he told me about basic techniques. I told him yeah, I already know that, but I'm still getting exhausted sometimes. He said: well, maybe you are missing physical conditioning. I thought: Maybe... Watching this video feels like a game-changer and I can't wait to give it a try. Thank you and the YT algorithms that can read my mind hahaha
Let me know when you come to Brazil!
Aloha!
haha gotta love that YT algorithm! Great to hear, let me know how it works out for you
Great video, I surf in Cornwall, England so same Atlantic to you but on the right! Nothing worse than a 20 minute battle to get out the back!
Oh sweet! Oh yea those days can be rough....sometimes you have to go back to the sand and take a break before trying again lol
Totally awesome, thank you - love the "half way" point idea and wait for a good moment to join the line-up!
You got it! Yea that's a great method to use if it's a little bigger and getting out isn't going to be easy
Good paddling technique comes from well.. lots of paddling.
Helps if you have some swim team experience.
Yes! It's not a skill that comes right away.. you gotta work at it for sure
Best video I've seen on paddling out a longboard! Well done and thank you mate! I surf a lot of beach breaks too and it's so important to find the rips. It's often easier to walk down the beach. paddle out in the rip, and then paddle back to the take-off zone than try to paddle straight out to the take-off zone.
Thanks Charles! Yes so true. Where you want to surf is not necessarily where you should be paddling out. Especially on the bigger days!
You can kind of duck dive a long board. As the wave approaches, do a push up to sink the nose while sort of side-scooping it to get it under the water. As you do this, jump off the side of the board and hold it under your arm in a kind of headlock position as the wave passes over you. You may get pushed back a bit, but you’ll be more likely to hold onto your board. It can be easy to lose your board when turning turtle.
Now this is a technique Iv'e never heard of, I'll give that a shot! Yea on bigger days a turtle roll just doesn't cut it🤷♂️
I know this technique, but have never been able to do it. I love the "Headlock" suggestion. That might be the secret formula that will work for me. I'll try it!
Good Lord. After never being able to turtle a bulky 11'6 (barely able to carry it all the way in) with sinewy long arms w/o having it ripped away from me after the dive and me tumbling after it head over heels...the way you worded this for visual thinkers...these technical tips totally make so much sense!!! I can now SEE the entire thing play out in snapshots as written, and what I was attempting to pull off. Mahalo
I can't begin to tell you how those few pointers completely addressed my issues in the past in my twenties. Boyfriends who surf never offered me any real pointers or advice in correcting my technique almost as if they didn't want me in the water and afraid I'd embarrass them by messing up a line up (I'm talking about Big Dume break in Malibu and 41st & Seashore in Newport Beach).
I was pummeled on New Years Day 1997-98 when a southern swell created 10-12 12ft waves in 2 back to back sets when I was just learning. English surfer boyfriend who lives in Malibu, promised me he would not leave me before we paddled out. Of course he was MIA when he rode one in before the 2 sets and I didn't see him anywhere on the beach looking for me. After struggling to keep paddling out beyond the jetty and break of 1st set, duck diving on every wave and I kept count (which is why I can remember this moment with clarity...29 years later), my arms literally just stopped working and it was all I could do to keep them on the 10.6 Stewart by my side. By the 2nd set that came barreling in 5 minutes after 1st set, I was still too close to jetty and not yet beyond the break. I really thought wow..I'm probably going to drown today..on the first morning of the New Year, with my mom inside house with clear view of me, not even aware, which will haunt her forever when lifeguards drive up to try to resuscitate me. This went through my mind as I took one last look of the house and could not duck dive any more so the first wave just dumped me and I didn't have the strength to swim once I was under, but my legs were able to push me off the bottom which was shallow still 8-10ft deep. My board and leash were jerking from behind and I was hoping they would wash me into shore, but no. I was bobbing leashed and just kept trying to sink with every next wave (I know this sounds insane but there were 8-10 in the 2nd set like the 1st. Other surfers (10) out there between the jetties did not look remotely concerned or call out and ask me if I needed help. They were so focused on catching those waves and couldn't be bothered I guess. My arms were just floppy useless limbs as if disconnected from my shoulders. Finally a 10-12 yr old boy on a boogie board swam by me and I could barely find the energy to ask quietly for help...and he didn't really want to help either. But I said I need your boogie board please. I can't use my arms I don't know why. Please please let me use your board. He never said: oh are you ok? he just reluctantly pushed his board over to me and I said could you please unleash me and take my board back in or just let it go don't care. He unleashed me and I kind of kicked myself like I was paralyzed from the waist up onto part of his boogie board and I said I need you to push me into the next wave so I can get into shore. Ok? So he did and I rode in on the back of a 2ft wave and just laid on the sand like I was dead and the water lapped around me. I was too weak to crawl. I did not care how "lame" I looked. There I laid in my pink neoprene. I was too weak to even be mad at my bf. Finally he showed up and leaned down and said all British chummy "Hey where'd you go? I didn't see you so I ran in and got some water." He never apologized and he never understood how close to drowning I came that day. I was built like a ballerina, 125lbs 5'10. Normally a strong swimmer and water skier but not super developed upper body strength. Guys in SoCal(OC is the worst IMO) just assume anyone can surf if they are out there and there isn't any real buddy system or chivalry obviously. I spent a decade watching my stepbros who were well known surfers, and all their friends surf that spot and the wedge and not too many female surfers out there ever back then. The surfers would come by and use the spigot/hose connected to house all day long to wash their board, and strip off wetsuits and basically hose down shower and never once ask if ok or say thanks. Like 20 a day. Every day there is surf. Talk about white privilege. I became a volunteer Firefighter/EMT and RED CARD Type 2 Wildland FF five years later. I am a very strong swimmer now both 50meter & open water, and SUP in Santa Barbara & Ventura. Even Jack Johnson and his wife Kim were swimming with me in Montecito and they were so friendly and nice and we chatted way out while treading. SB is my favorite place on west coast. But I will never forget that first day of the year I nearly died. I took lessons in Maui (where my ohana and all my ancestors come from) and Big Island where the watermen of Hapuna Beach and Paia on Maui and Waimea, Makaha, Sunset Beach, Oahu - Waimea lifeguards are the knights of the water. There is no comparison between the watermen of Hawaii and their respect and genuine concern for the safety of the people than HB/NB/OC and I know SoCal lifeguards are great but the lifeguards in LACo,Ventura & SB County are a different breed.In a good way. LACoFD chief is one of my best friends and Im always telling him this. I am Native Hawai'ian want to say Mahalo Nui Loa for this video and pointers. Sorry for the very long post...I feel like I just had a therapy session on PTSD surfing ..lol... I've never even shared it before. I am headed to Oahu Kauai then Fiji Tonga and Vanuatu in April 2023 so I really hope I can improve and will keep watching your videos!! Aloha.
Wow what a story!! Quite a horrifying story!! Quite a lot to unpack there, but a few things to take away from that.
Never assume anyone is going to help you or make sure you're OK ( as much as we all should). That's where a buddy comes into play, especially on larger days. It's nice to have someone who you know will look out for you.. in your case you thought you did.
There are nice people everywhere as well as sucky people everywhere. If you came to surf in NJ on a particular day you can get a very friendly lineup, or you can get a very aggressive line up. Few of the breaks I surf have really good vibes and that's why I surf there.
Iv'e heard some horror stories about the localism in CA, however my experience in Santa cruz was excellent and everyone was very friendly. However, Iv'e heard horror stories about santa cruz as well.
Sounds like you really vibe well with the hawaii culture and that's awesome! Enjoy your 2 month trip!!
@@LongboardSessions Mahalo!! Yeah SC is cool..have a good friend there who surfs..also a female firefighter and USAR for SFFD. Old Malibu friends from back in the 80s now live in SC..The Gerhardt's (husband & wife) are big wave surfers there . We used to live in Bucks County..and my first ever ocean experience was the Jersey shore!!! Thank you for the pointers. Didn't intend to dump my PTSD surf story there...didn't even realize how much it affected me until I started pouring it out and couldn't stop. :) That whole "Locals Only" "No Vals" BS is very Malibu..and what is hilarious is that the guys who went semi-pro to pro all came from the SF Valley!!! And those same "locals only" attitude (from the 80's so now they are all age 50+) gets shut down real fast when they go to Hawaii. For the most part the Hawai'ians are only territorial if you don't show respect. Most of the younger crowds are so mixed and diverse you can't even tell who is Native and who isn't these days. The only bad vibe I ever hear of between local Hawaiian surfers...are when the Brazilians are in the mix.
@@juliekailihiwa8150 Wow very interesting! Yea i can't stand the "local" attitude. However, Iv'e never experienced very crowded surf breaks and don't quite understand what it's like to live near one of these places. I'm cool with anyone as long as respect is given both ways. Even when I'm a tourist surfing a new place.. I give total respect to the locals and only catch inside waves.. however I do atleast expect politeness back when I say "hi" haha!
@@LongboardSessions well I may be relocating from US to South Pacific...Fiji/Vanuatu!! Hence the upcoming looksie trip in Nov. If we do...I'll let you know..and you and yours will be welcome to come visit us and surf any time! Then you can teach us private lessons!!! :) Very friendly people in V & F...none of that ridiculous behavior. You'll fit right in and be accepted. Ocean is plenty big there. Plenty of breaks for everyone to go round. What those knuckleheads don't really understand... is the ocean belongs to no one. Those who pretend to claim ownership do not bother take any real steps to protect it or limit their plastics & synthetic textiles use, source all their goods from places that require freighters to heavily traverse the globe, killing mammals and fishes of the seas at alarming rates, adding to the giant garbage patch that is 2x the size of France now, plus the carbon emissions. check out this link to see the crazy amount of freight and shipping lanes used. Mind-boggling. www.vox.com/2016/4/25/11503152/shipping-routes-map
@@chrro466 Mahalo Nui Loa .... its fine to be Pākēha, Māori & Māoli are loving people, with enough Aroha to share with everyone, besides...aren't we all Tamariki of Moana at heart? There is a another nice guy surfer/former lifeguard from Malibu named Chris Rossi with a younger bro named Justin who I was friends with too and he was a total gentleman! Maybe it's your Doppelgänger? Good for you on the move to NZ! Leaving the cold grey PNW soon heading your way to Fiji Vanuatu Tonga in 2 months and I am so so excited to return to the water. I'll be watching this channel religiously now, become a Patreon. With the mention of NZ / Aeoteroa [btw I love the idea of NZ returning to indigenous names so much more soulful, kind, respectful, plus the world loves Haka now] Plus it honors the real history of the land, helps repair the generational trauma and injustices of colonialism, makes things right again. Ho'opono, Hawaiian ritual of forgiveness. We could use more of that everywhere. I hope New Caledonia, other countries, indigenous cultures, follows suit. Our policing institutions & politicians sure could use a healthy dose of it. Wish Marshallese [Rālik-Ratak, or "jolet jen Anij" [Gifts from God] could do the same before their islands disappear into the sea. So your sweet kind message, made me think of the one and only positive experience I had in the water, dated, a truly nice guy & fabulous snowboarder / long time surfer Dean from Auckland, Great guy, extremely chivalrous. Unlike Justin from Perth & Wanker from Dorset.😌 My ohana are all from Paia & Ho'okipa dating back to 1600s Maui (wish I could share my FB cover photo, its an etching I found researching the HMS Endeavor first voyage charting Aotearoa to Tahiti ~ Tonga ~Marquesas from early 1700s depicting ancient Haw'i with a sea full of only wahine surfing riding multiple breaks on koa planks, forwards, backwards, paddling into waves, cresting them, duck diving, ...its so spectacular and legitimizes brown girls were clearly Riding Giants 400+ yrs [archaeologists apparently found cave drawings of Polynesians surfing in 1200] before ....the others that came along claiming reign, which is why I think [without even knowing the full history of surfing of my own people back then], why I felt so cheated and hurt, that my yearning to learn was met with such dismissiveness and chauvinism. So not like it isn't in my bloodlines...wish it would come more naturally. Back in the 90s I even edited feature stories for Surfing Magazine [granted it was mostly run on sentences and grammar] when my long time friend Jamie Brisick, a former ASP pro was made Editor in Chief. Have you read any of his books, or stories? He still writes features about the legacy surfers from Australia, NZ, Indo, Brazil, and other exotic breaks. I just had a string of bad instructors. Enough of those haole SoCal Boyz. Sorry for the long read again...I "talk story" when I write...May our Aumkuma Māno always protect in the sea, ChrisRossi3046, Be well my friend, mahalo again for pep talk meant a lot ...and have a great long ride ...Aloha & Aroha🤙🌺
This is the most helpful longboard video ive ever watched thanks!
Wow thanks! Glad it can help!
bro i love the content! learning more about longboarding every time i watch your channel! if you are ever looking for something new or different i really suggest mid lengths. i have started dabbling in then myself and could not be more stoked on the performance and feel of the board. twin all the way!
Thanks man! Maybe i'll try out a mid length one day.. they do look quite fun!
Oh man, I wish this video had come out a year ago. I learned all this the hard way! Good stuff, now I'm check out your other videos.
Haha! So many things I wish I knew sooner as well… that’s the way it goes sometimes
Thank you this video is so helpful.
You got it Chad! Good luck out there
Great video! ....when ever I choose to teach someone (which is not often), I insist they learn the basics of paddling, finding the center point and balance on the board (both laying and sitting) as well as spinning the board around BEFORE we hit the surf. Which means several trips to the bay. -- With these fundamentals understood the wave count goes way up!
Well you should teach more often because you're good at it! Well said, those simple basics can greatly improve the surf experience
I wish the surf schools would focus on those things instead of just getting their students to stand up in the couple hours they have.
Excellent longboard tips!
Thanks!!
You explain things so well! Just found your channel and appreciate the quality of your content.... Speaking of 'channel,' another tip for beach breaks is knowing there are channels in between different wave breaks which can be easier to paddle out as opposed to paddling straight into the break.
Thanks Sean! Yes for sure, looking for places that can shoot you out help. Here in NJ it's often right near the jetty
Awesome video, 3 keys are identifying rips, timing and sprint paddling. All the techniques you demonstrated here are great to punch through or get under the wave 's energy
Thanks Phil! Yes exactly.. and timing might be the biggest of them all
Great idea about paddling out half way or thereabouts. Many times I will walk out as far as I can and stand there and wait (without getting pushed too far back), as I see the end or last of the large set coming I start to paddle like mad...
Yea that’s a great method! Having a little patience can save so much energy
When SanO gets big......its a fight for sure. I used to laugh at chuck Norris's total gym, but I got one and mimicked the paddling movement for a workout. Damn!!! It worked. Cable workouts on a sled are just like paddling out.
I dont surf anymore (tired of the cold) but I can say, if you want to make it past the slop to the outside waves? Do pully wheel workouts on a sled. I had a lot of fun surfing California when I was in shape. You always go!!!!
Oh great ideas. Yea I was wondering what to do for paddle strength at home... I bet I can find a chuck norriss total gym used for pretty cheap haha
Great advice re: halfway point!!! Thx
You got it! Yea that's a big one that I see many surfers over look
I like your halfway point advice got caught on the inside on friday just coudnt get out
In hind sight i should of gone back to the beach and looked for a better way out rather than try and battle out
Oh yes exactly! I had to do it the other day as well. I just chilled for awhile because I knew my efforts we're not getting me anywhere lol
Great topic and video. As a new surfer I only wanted to focus on catching waves. But I found a greater overall improvement in my sessions once I gave paddling the attention it needed. Thanks and keep up the good work! 🤙🏄♂️
Awesome thanks steven! Yea paddling is often overlooked when you start surfing, but it's huge!
Many beginners and novices are like that. And thats make since cause it's called "surfing". But it can take a while to see all aspects required to surf as surfing. A perfectly executed deep duck dive is as difficult and satisfying to pull off as a drop in and bottom turn. To me any way.
Pretty good accurate info for small to medium waves. I agree with the useless roll method .I surfed OB in SF for decades..if there is no rip or channels you paddle out as far as you can then ditch the board and SWIM..as soon as your past your second sandbar you get back on the board and paddle fast as you can.Generally big days at beach breaks have only a few rides.
Because you get hammered.
Oh yea for sure. Some day's theres just no way to not get hammered haha!
I tried the turtle roll maybe 10 times. And never again. It's time consuming, you lose all your speed, and you can still lose your board.
Maybe is just me. But I stopped even trying to roll because being in that upside down position flooded my sinuses. Trying to slowly exhale thru my nose didn't stop it. I'd end up with water draining out my nose, bad equalibrium, and F'n migraines.
i would loveee if you made a video with all your on-land practicing techniques and the reason we need to practice it!
I plan on doing a pop up video that will have on land practice in it, but in the meantime check out this video I made
ruclips.net/video/oetaPG3DKIA/видео.html
I swear I wish you gave a workshop on teaching the trainer / instructors !
I wish my instructors told me all this so I’m not figuring it out myself learned a year ago and I’m only getting somewhat comfortable dealing with the waves
Well if you find a good instructor I'm sure they would give some great advice. Finding a good one is tough I imagine! Surfing has some concepts that are really tough to teach
this video is great dude
Thanks Bill!
Good topic. Here are three tips that are helping me conserve energy while paddling out (from Nick Carroll): 1. Relax the neck. I found I was using a lot of energy holding my head way up. 2. Paddle really deeply. I make sure the top of my biceps rubs against the side of the board during the stroke. 3. (Best tip) Don't paddle fast, ever. Pulling your arm too fast through the water is less efficient. I've also worked on positioning myself better for catching waves, so I don't need to sprint.
All good tips! Especially the one about not paddling as hard as you can. You get more bang for your buck if you do long slow strokes and allow the board to glide.
Amazing video!
Thanks Luigi!
The sit back technique is the best for me. Sit on the inside and just wait for a lull, paddle out easy.
Tip : if you get pushed backwards, release your board until your hands reach the tail, you won't get nailed.
Yep it's a good one. Patience is key haha
Some great tips! Also if you paddling is not so good, or you are out of practice, small days are great for improving it. Just paddle 20-30 strokes parallel to shore, do a 180 like you are turning for a wave, then paddle 20-30 strokes the other way; rinse and repeat.
Great idea! Don't need waves to get out there and practice that. In fact, you should probably try that first if your brand new haha
such good advice. the paddling when you're moving forward or looking over your shoulder causes such intense neck stiffness aching sometimes spasms into my delts...what am I doing wrong and does that ever get better over time? Just curious.
You can also duck dive a long board, If your have a 9'1" performance long board you can paddle towards the white water with speed and dip one rail just before the white water then follow though with your knee works well if you get the timing right.
Yes for sure! Not easy for me tho.. 135 lbs doesnt push a ton hehe
@@LongboardSessions try,it you dont need to big heavy its just speed and timing then dip that rail🤙🏽😉
Often in NJ and other beach breaks, there is a bit of a deeper area just inside of the main impact zone where you can hang and wait for a lull.
Yep absolutely! Really makes life so much easier to just relax and wait for a lull
Hey this is a great channel, loving the content. Have subscribed 👍😆
Thanks!! Glad you enjoy🤙
There two other methods of pushing through a wave worth mentioning that I use after more than 20 years of surfing.
First: I call the "nose dive" or "Ostrich-duck-dive" which is simply shuffling all the way up to the nose holding your breath and hugging the board with your legs and arms as the front of the board dips under the water and the tail goes into the air, this is a bit of a smasher but at least your still on top of the board after the wav passes and just have to shuffle your butt backwards to the center vs when you turtle you need to remount to board and keep it from getting torn from your hands as the wave passes over. This technique is often definitely not an option when surfing shalower breaks like in Hawaii.
Second. I never named this technique before but ill call it the "human sea-anchor". This is only if you have a major set incoming and your about to get wreked or often times your already caught on the inside and have alread been hit by a wave. You get of the board or stay off the board, grab a hold your leash just a couple of inches past the tail so you you hand isn't crushed/smashed against the board, position yourself between the board and the wave with the board pointing into the beach and directly away from the wave so the positioning is beach-board-surfer-wave, then right before the wave hits dip under the water as deep as you possibly can and then pull on your leash with all your strength which thereby pulls your board under the water after you as much as is possible. Your timing is critical! You want the wave to hit just a millisecond before your board is about to float back to the surface. There are five important points on this technique 1. You want to hold on to your leash rather the just bailing your board because you don't want your surfboard to hit any other surfer in the water behind you, keep in mind leashes stretch so there can be more then 25 feet from the nose of the board to the anclet of the leash and that's not including any distance you might get dragged/pushed along as well. 2. You also want to hold on to the leash so the you don't get whiplash to your leg or ancle as the board is rocked by the wave. 3. Pulling the board under the water just a little will minimize how much force the wave has to pull on you board to dash it around. 4. DON'T EVER WRAP THE LEASH AROUND YOUR HAND with this technique if it gets ripd fromyour hand thats fine a you will still at least have minimized the initial impact and can always reset if there'sanother wave coming. 5. Making sure that your leash, the leash plug and leash cord are all in excellent condition on your board is THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO CHECK before ever surfing!
Personally I only surf with a leash when the waves are bigger then shoulder high. I do have enough skill to hold onto my board in most any condition but it's as much of a courtesy to other surfer in the water as it is a convenience for myself.
haha both great techniques! All sorts of tips and tricks we develop over the years. I've done the first one, but never tried grabbing the leash close to the plug before
@@LongboardSessions It's difficult to explain how and why I hate seeing a board bailed loose without any control. Like nails on a chalk board, just years of experience i guess. If you give it a try I think you will find that it is a much more advantageous method to taking a heavy set on the head with The biggest disadvantage being how long takes to set up I usually turn and then slide off the tail. I literally just got out of the water as I'm replying to this was at the south side of San Clemente Pier, It has a wonderful little longboard right high tide!
Try a slice duck dive. Bill Stewart demonstrates it.
Sweet i'll check it out! This might be what Daniel Brennan mentioned a little lower in the comments?
I’ve mastered my turtle rolls 🙌 made my life so much easier when the waves are bigger
Yes they come in handy when you can execute them properly! I just hate having to do them haha!
Thank you I love u for sharing this !! Hugs man
You got it!
This is the most comprehensive breakdown of longboard paddle out techniques I've seen. Thanks!!
Wow thanks! Glad it’s helpful 👍
Another Turtle Roll tip is to grab the rail closer to the nose of your board, especially on bigger days, which helps keep the nose from lifting out of the water. You also don't have to pull down so hard doing it this way helping to conserve energy.
Great tip! I'll give that a shot next time out
Continue the turtle roll through the wave crashing, doing the full rotation. Using the waves aeriated water and becoming a human boat propeller.
Look for the rip even if it’s hundred s of meter down from the wave. Know when to go or wait for the crunch. It’s totally cool to catch the wave in if it’s too much to get under or over
Turtle Roll Hint too - I launch myself up and forward over the board to one side and kinda dive while pulling the board and then reappear post wave hit
If timed, you can achieve it in one motion and paddle on
Sounds like a good technique to me! I'll give it a shot. I love it when it feels like one fluid motion and your able to flip right over to continue paddling.
Great video
Thanks Ryan!
Great video as usual. You can also practice the duck dive. Even it is obsvious it’is easier with a short board but it works pretty well with a log too if well excecuted.
Yea I'm sure it's possible, but im only 130 lbs... no way I'm sinking my board haha
@@LongboardSessions I am 158 lbs with a board with 70 liters and its works ( and I am far to have you surf level )
@@benoitdemuth4568 wow nice!
Thanks
you got it!
I made a poor decision last Saturday when I thought there would be time to go up the incoming wave while I was paddling back to the outside. The wave broke on top of me and banged my face on the board. Fortunately it was not bad, no stitches needed, no dizziness... but it hurt & bled, and I had to leave...
oh dang!! It's amazing how much facial and head injuries bleed lol. Hope you heal up fast and get back out there!
Great advice about the halfway point. If you pay attention to the waves as you're paddling out there always seems to be spots where they reform a bit and you can wait without losing ground. Never tried the climb-over, might give it a go, Cheers.
yes exactly! give it a shot… works well on the larger walls of white water
There's only one reason for me, I am 2 months short of turning 60, and I'm out of shape! Great video, thanks.
haha that'l do it! Honestly, I gotta get myself in better shape as well
If your getting hit by a big wave sometimes you need to ditch your board. Just make sure it wont hit somebody .
Absolutley. Look behind you and bail. Happens to everyone
It's funny these videos r pretty much what normally would be conversations between surfing buddies. I guess u r doing ur best. Have fun , aloha
Edit, who's the cameraman?
Great video I use a lot of the same techniques on the longboard. One other method i've found that works pretty well especially on bigger waves is ditching the board and diving under the wave, save your energy, don't fight the waves and paddle hard when there is a lull in the ocean.
Thanks! Yes the ditch and dive is necessary on bigger waves sometimes. Just gotta hope the leash doesn't snap
DO NOT DITCH YOUR BOARD unless you are SURE there is nobody behind you or a surfer on a wave coming towards you. Aside from creating a danger to other surfers there is a good chance you will lose your board due to the leash breaking or the wave breaking the board. MIND YOUR BOARD!
Nice tips. I've not seen that push-up one before. Definitely going to try that.
Thanks John! Yea give it a shot... it's my most used technique I'd say
Where in nj is this awesome looking spot? I grew up in south jersey and just surf in san diego now... But love make a trip east to check out this break.
And thank you for the fantastic instructional videos. Peace
Thanks Neal! This is monmouth county
I'm one of those who admire you idol, I hope I also have my own board😁
Thanks Vincent!
lol looking at you in a park at the beach is painful! So cold!
Come shred Ventura CA. We've got two guest rooms and if you can work remote (presuming you have a day job) we've got good Wifi. Tons of surf options all around and longboards galore for you to borrow. Only problem is nearly everything goes right here... but I'm sure you can deal!
whoops, typo! PARKA! Looks freezing!
Careful, I might take you up on that! Yea it's brutally cold here some days... but we press on lol. I have a painting business so remote doesn't quite work... but hopefully one day I can do this full time and work anywhere. That's the goal atleast haha
@@LongboardSessions well if it happens you're genuinely welcome! Good surf out here, great temps and very very long point breaks!
@@shredandenjoy7311 Awesome! Long point break is still something Iv'e never experienced.... Got a taste of it in santa cruz
Does this apply to short boarders as well? These are good tips on how to maximize and maintain forward momentum. Thanks brother.
Yes and no. All three mistakes, yes. However the tips I give on technique basically only applies to longboarders. As a short boarder, tbe duck dive is king
Thanks man just found your channel two days ago and really liked the videos. Then I find this new one, exactly what I was needing atm. I ride a 7ft fun board and have been surfing 5 times in socal and these tips have definitely helped. I agree, don't like turtle roles too much haha.
Oh that's great! Glad the video was well timed haha. The goal is to never have to turtle role. It's all about positioning and paddling out at the right time. But even so, turtle roles are inevitable every session
@@LongboardSessions so even in over head waves is the turtle role how you get through the worst situations when the wave is about to crash on you?
@@Subala_Villa Well that's tricky. The idea is to never get caught in a bad spot... but when that happens and youre about to get worked, I just look behind me and make sure no one is there and bail. If someone is there you have to turtle role and hold on for dear life
@@LongboardSessions Ah ok. I guess that just comes with experience and practice then. I feel like I'm never able to paddle through the "right" place. And with bigger waves, turtle rolls never seem to work and always just pick me up, flip me and tumble me back towards shore haha. That's why with even 5ft waves I've just completely jumped from my board. I was juts wondering if there's any more efficient way through that. Obviously duck diving doesn't work well for longer boards.
Great tips man. I am new and yesterday was first time since my 2 lessons. It took me real quick to realize im dead if i try ti paddle over a set. I am in good shape and i was laying w my head on the board feeling my face flush going wait, if waves eventually stop maybe i should wait and more importantly not take the first one in the set. Is there a usual pattern for how many in a set or does this also change as time passes?
Your medium point technique is gold. Ty
oh awesome, glad it can help!
I'd have to say it's different every session when it comes to how many waves are in a set. That's why it helps to study the waves for 10-15 minutes before you paddle out... especially if you're a bit nervous.
the thing is this technics are for smaller not so powerfull waves, i just came back from ericeira surfing 2 meter waves with 2000 of force, and all this technics where not efficient, im still in my learning stage and after trying a few times holding on to my board, i realised just bailing was the best option (always looking there was no one behind me of course)
100%. Sometimes you gotta bail when you're in a bad spot and the waves are too big. The idea is to avoid those situations as much as possible by timing the paddle out well
Turtle doesn’t lose distance if done correctly. If serious then just hold board on the nose only! right way up off the board to one side
Great video and really good/helpful comments too. For decades, I have been simply brute forcing my way through, like an idiot, and always got out no matter how big or short period swell. Nobody could out paddle me. Now, in my 7th decade of life my shoulder is cooked. Sad emoji. Like the video and comments say, paddle smarter, not harder...
Absolutely! Are you still able to surf or is it totally fried?
@@LongboardSessions Thanks so much for asking. Yes, I can surf. went Saturday. It will just continue to deteriorate. It's bone on bone with arthritis and various and sundry tears. The doc says I should be ok for another trip- I'm going to Suluban for the month of July and getting a cortisone shot a week before. Hopefully that and ibuprofen gets me through. (or i'll spend a month at old man's...) Tomorrow I'm going to a specialist to talk about a replacement. Paddle SMART, not hard!
Well that's good. Hopefully replacement is a solution. Maybe get real good at paddling one handed. Bethany hamilton does it!
...grab the nose in the bigger stuff, angling downward. While the longer you pursue the pastime (actually a hobby, apols) - you get bigger like a great ape, and by year 5 probably can duckdive the longboard, such is your strength. I could duck-dive my longboard or look like I was almost diving the longboard at very many beaches. And many years ago I read about Australians standing on boards, sinking, submarines below the waterline, the ultimate ambition that was never reached during my lifetime, although I prayed to God somewhere out back in France.
haha theres no way i'd ever be able to duck dive a longboard. I can barely sink it standing on it. Grabbing the nose is a good tip tho.. I do that occasionally if i'm just getting back to my board and about to get worked
any tips for someone who weighs 315 pounds and is 6 foot 1? i have a 9 foot 6 longboard.... when i managte to stand on the board it seems to sink... this is confusing to me as when i catch a wave and just kneel i catch it just fine
Yes, you need a bigger board! Not exactly sure of the size, but I'd contact some board companies for recomendations. Email bing and they will help you out for sure!
Hey i have Been surfing a 7ft foam board, i am 5 foot 7 inches and is pretty new to surfing, would a 6,4 shortboard be a choice? If you maybe have some board suggestions i would love to hear Them, but not too expensive🙏
I wouldn't recommend a smaller board, but this does depend on your skill level. I also don't know what your goals are. Ideally I would want to see you ride a high pro longboard or something close to that. Maybe 9'
Wonder why I surf with my brain but when I’m out there is like I have had a wipe out🤔
Well keep calm it’s fun!
haha exactly! There will be many wipeouts... but just gotta keep experimenting
Hello, may I ask why my wrist hurts every time after hitting the wave？Do you have any suggestions to improve it？
hmm that's hard to say without seeing what you're doing. Maybe try some different wrist positions. You could also have somthing wrong with your wrist maybe?
What board and length are you using in this video? Thanks
9'6" COS Chingona
🤙
🤙🤙
You can also rotate 90% and slice through the wave perpendicular like and arrow.
I never tried that haha! I'll give it a shot
I cut through heavy sets at steamers all the time using this technique, approach it like a half turtle roll, go straight at the wave
@@danielbrennan5872 nice! I was in santa cruz recently.. didn't get to surf steamers tho. I'd love to try cowells one day
@@LongboardSessions Cowells been strangely flat for last couple years, I would recommend Pleasure point or 38th if you Longboard, always breaking nice. Sewers for shortboard is always breaking steep ;)
@@LongboardSessions Hit me up if your in the area and would like someone show you around, my buddy been surfing here for decades. Take it easy and stay surfing!
I think you forgot something on the paddling out. If you getting crushed by waves, always hang onto your board and know who is behind you. respect others or be ready to be punched in the face.
Well said. Gotta remember that you're board is 9' + and your leash adds another 9' to 10'. Almost 20' of reach behind you if you lose your board
Turtlerolls are dangerous in big surf don't do it.
Saw a guy do a perfect roll, came up unconscious his head was smacked on the board.
He was ok, he remembered going up and coming back down and bang it went black.
Yes very true Big waves and turtle rolls really don't mix. Sometimes you just gotta bail.. or take out smaller boards
Slap kick the water hard getting there. Turtle role is a grab of the nose not the rails trust me brother. And know then if it flips you the pressure will only snap the board not your arms
Is your board name, chingona ? Cool
Yup, by COS
You need to learn how to head to the beach with back foot back. Try to avoid cheaters turn as it will throw you off more often. Vertical pressure over tail and head to the beach. If up in the nose and can’t get back then hawihian pull out. See turning video advice for fundamentals
My God 15 Degrees 🥶. What thickness wetsuit are you wearing?
Yea it was a cold one! 5/4 xcel infiniti, 7mm glove and boots. I was actually quite warm while surfing atleast
That's a summer day here in Wales!!!
YNWA
YNWA. CL should be exciting.. hopefully get some revenge real madrid😉
Its better to just ditch the board and grab it from the base of the leash an pull it forward...
Like instead of a turtle dive? Only issue I would have with that is the board is very close to you, yet not in control. So it could be dangerous
@@LongboardSessions The board is always going to be carried away by the wave and you are grabbing it from the base of the leash, it always remains pointing to the beach, I find it much more effective than all the other techniques
Yes you're correct, but you're coming at it from a more experienced perspective. Some people night grab that part of the leash while the board is parallel to the beach and that it wacks them.. that's all i'm trying to say. It's a very good technique if done correctly.. I guess that applies to most things tho haha
There is only ONE paddle out mistake that matters and these days it has turned some line-ups into a dangerous free-for-all! Here it is, pay very close attention kids. When paddling out the Cardinal Rule is to paddle around the bowl or surf zone PERIOD, end of story. So may kooks, newbies, spongers, shoulder hogs think they are entitled to simply barge directly into the path of the oncoming surfer whom is already up and riding, WRONG-WRONG-WRONG! You npaddle around the line up, into the area where the best set waves are breaking, then wait your frickin turn. Sometimes the sets will shift and put you into the path of an oncoming surfer. This is where you Man or Woman Up and take one on the head! NEVER head for the shouler under these circumstances, always paddle inside and duck dive. This is your Surfing 101 Lesson for the day, act accordingly...
Your points are correct, however we can't forget that we all were beginners at one point. We have to politely explain the etiquette to new surfers when we see they are doing something wrong.
You must be fun at parties
You remind me of Daniel Radcliffe. Very likeable.
Turtle Roll Hint: when upside down use one of your feet to put a little pressure pushing up on the tail (not too much though) this helps keep the nose down and forces the wave over the board rather then getting under the nose.
Yea that's a great idea! Takes a little planning though... i did some last minute turtle rolls my last time out and it didn't work out haha
Yeah I do that especially in bigger waves or when it’s breaking just in front of me
Keep your feet out of the water by keeping your legs together when paddling. A basic mistake I see by novices.
Yes that's a great tip! Legs draggin helps no one haha
Screw turtle role just throw the board
lol! Nah, they work well if you do em right!
Do Planks everyday as long as you can , and do your burpees . 🦾😎
Can't hurt that's for sure