The Reason You May Not be Ready
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- Опубликовано: 24 янв 2024
- I got to surf one of the best waves in the world with Devon Howard! Learned a ton about things I didn't expect to learn about. I also have a few reasons why you may want to avoid surfing here. Enjoy!
Brian James
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Board: Clean Ocean Surfboards: 9'6" Chingona 
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Hailing from the pacific northwest, where I too mostly surfing beach breaks, I can definitely relate to immediately taking action on the wave. Your conversation with Devon taps into a lot of subtle nuances that don't get discussed often enough. One of your best videos yet.
Wow thanks so much! Yes it's honeslty something I wouldn't have thought about until I surfed malibu!
You surf pnw and you arent hitting all your point breaks?
@@sweendawg7274 mostly sand bottom beach breaks in my area
Hearing Devon on a wave while surfing was sick! Definitely a good way to get tips from the best.
Yea for sure! I would love to do this more often with different types of surfers. However, not all would have played along like Devon.. he spent the time to explain what he was doing on the wave. Not easy to do while youre surfing.
@@LongboardSessions Devon is definitely the most relaxed! I watch all his videos and it made me a better surfer.
Surfing beach breaks is like batting with weights on or playing acoustic guitar. When the weights come off the bat or someone hands you an electric, you realize YES, I CAN SHRED.
very well said lol! Exactly right
Wow, Devon Howard???...what an awesome episode! I've surfed Malibu as a beginner on a foamie and it was very humbling, I mostly watched than surfed to be honest, so many talented surfers! I love your story telling and the commentary on the mics are amazing! Thank you for this inspiring video!
Thanks so much!! Yea this was such a fun one
Amazing insight! Very well put together, love all of the perspectives! Keep up the great work!
Thanks so much Jeff!
You couldn't have picked a better mentor. Devon, that new CI Log looks awesome!
tell me about it! Oh yea i'm totally getting one haha
Love watching your videos mate! Thanks so much for sharing. This one shows how far you've come! Devon Howard seems like a lovely guy too! 👍
Thanks so much!! Yea he was a good trooper... I'm surprised he hung in there as I was strapping mics to his wetsuit! He's a pro tho... been around the block in the filming scene
So much fun and great wisdom in this video!!
Thanks my brotha!
My favorite part of this video is your smiles from 4:36-4:38 there is no faking the sheer stoked joy of Cali surf anticipation in those smiles.
yes sir!! It was too much fun
Really cool Vid yet again. Def loved the mic’d up up Devon and his advice. As always love the humble way you go about your longboarding. Nice surfing on a foreign board too!
Thanks!! Yes, the foreign board definitely adds a learning curve. I really want to try more board out at malibu now lol
Another banger video man! Loving what you're putting out
Thanks bro!! Hope all is well
Great episode, amazing opportunity, stellar narrative! Who knew Devon was that cool? New fan of yours and Devons!
awesome thanks so much!! Yea he's a cool dude. Fun one to make!
Nailed it. I'm an East Coast transplant to NorCal who leaves boards at the inlaws' to surf Manhattan Beach, El Porto, and Malibu when in LA. Malibu is just as you describe, although I think the crowd is mostly mellower than many of the crowded, mid-level Santa Cruz-area breaks I haunt. Definitely try it, be respectful of the locals, and, yes, adjust for longer rides than most Mid-Atlantic breaks I once frequented (DE to OBX). And, yes, re: Travellers, the best surfshop for beginner and seasoned adult surfers alike -- and now my all-time fav shop (Sorry Real Watersports, OBX). Anyway, great content. Thank you!
Awesome thanks!! Yes it's quite an adjustment for sure. I LOVE santa cruz btw... amazing spots!
Traveler Surf Club is THE. BEST. !!!!!!!
That was great! Got me jonesing for a long board session for sure.
Thanks!! Ah yes.. i'm dying to get back out as well
Super cool, thanks for that ❤
You got it!
We did a lot of learning at Malibu but out of everyone's way mostly in the "soup" (white water now). However this was in the early 60's!
Oh wow! I bet it was a lot different back then. Yea you can totally do this nowadays as well, but there are many better places to learn
Your best vid so far! I get the same feeling at the pass in Byron Bay!
Wow thanks so much!! I bet !
Another insightful video - great job with the interview! The beach breaks in NZ can get crowded on a good day in the summer months, and I usually find myself on the shoulder. Your comment about being patient and working yourself into the lineup hit home with me. Too often, I find myself struggling to catch less-than-ideal waves while I watch the lineup having a grand time. Positioning inside is helpful - smaller waves and reforms = more rides, but I wonder if I am improving doing this?? Anyway, I really enjoyed your video, and like always, if you ever find yourself down under, ring me up; plenty of room in my house and 2 minutes to the beach at Ohope. Cheers - Jack
Thanks Jack!! don't think I won't take you up on that house offer haha!
You also have surfed with me and know I don't like to sit still.. that's what drives me nuts about waiting patiently in a lineup. However, that's how you have to do it at some breaks.. that's what i'm learning atleast haha
Beautiful edit. I loved that you mic'd up Devon. ....a reason to surf with more of the best surfers in the world! .... The great thing about Malibu is the caliber of the surfers. Crowded yes. But, Malibu surfers have learned the ever critical skill of "board control!"
Thanks Billy! Yes that was noticable.. lots of people but overall a high skill level. Which makes things more competitive yes, but also safer and sometimes more enjoyable
This was a very enjoyable episode. The interview added a great perspective and inspiration.
Thanks so much!
Summer time is where it’s at. I got one of the deepest barrels of my life at 2nd point. When there’s a solid swell it’s a whole different animal. I rarely surf there and I don’t longboard, my longest board is a 6’2”. I hate surfing there 😂
haha! Honestly that's what I hear from a lot of people. They just avoid malibu
Nice!!! Very cool and your reaction is very recognizable from the 2 times Ive been able to surf there during a roadtrip in cali.
haha yes I was quite excited !
Yew! Also, highly appriciate the water mic, so fun hearing the inner thoughts of Devon during some waves. Looking forward to some of those board design footage!@@LongboardSessions
Devon Howard and Leah Dawson are my two favorite surfers. Watching them rip on mid-lengths really make we want one, but I don't think I need to stray from solidifying my skills on a LB first.
Yea for real! I'm kinda in the same boat.. gonna get a mid length for the bigger days eventually.. but for now I'm still going solo LB
Awesome I'm so glad you got to meet him wonderful opportunity, & finally someone told you to Relax 😂😂😂😂, I do feel your anxieties as you surf, glad your finally getting the focus and relax, I laughed when Devon stated your like a Labrador retriever focused on the ball lol priceless wisdom, lol i love to see how far your skills has gotten,,& yes surfing faster waves break is great training and if you've got that down with a longboard, yes the long another breaks will be heaven as long as you allow things down, anyway it's such a pleasure to watch this. Would be nice to have you come to Hawaii and surf several breaks. Aloha God bless.. Waikiki reminds me of Malibu but more crowded with novice surfers the challenge is to not get hit by then lol
haha excellent! I know... labrador retriever was my favorite comment haha! I'd love to head to to hawaii one of these days for sure!
I learned to surf in Montauk and would frequently hit San Onofre and Huntington Beach on trips home to California. Once on a February weekday, I finally went to Malibu on a two-foot day. It was so small there were only four or five people out, and three of them were paddleboarders. I got one wave in 90 minutes because these guys were so fast to paddle back out and they never missed a single wave they paddled for. In hindsight, I should have tried to chat them up, let them know that I knew I wasn’t local and maybe they would have let me hop on a few more. I was definitely showing respect by giving them plenty of room and never even looking like I might consider dropping in. But it would have been better to more actively engage and try to shoot the shit. Was still a beautiful morning to grab a quick sesh on a work trip, but I watched so many perfect/tiny waves go by with somebody else on them, it was freaking heartbreaking.
Would love to see a similar video from Rincón up the coast on a pumping swell. Just as competitive, but if you screw up you get stranded on the rocks. Fun!!!
Wow very interesting. Yes I think in hindsight you should have talked with all of them. Also, you'll have to prove your skill level. If you combine those two things, they'll totally give you waves. The problem is if you screw up on a wave they give you.. you'll never see another one lol. I'm not saying it's fair... but it's the way it is
Reminds me of school surfari. It was a small day and I was struggling on my shortboard at a new break. I overheard a few saying it improves on a rising tide. I took a break and waited. There was a huge log the school had brought. It weighed a ton but by hey ho. Next hour was bliss. That barge caught every single wave and the rides were averaging about 40-50m. No more thrashing about just went with the flow...
Yes! The right equipment can make a big difference. Around here there are so many people who don't ride the right board lol
Gotta come on out and surf O'ahu, it will change your perspective even more about the limits longboarders go in terms of size, speed, and power.
Sign me up!
Great video! 🌊🙌
Thanks Maddie! Hope all is well
Fantastic video Brian.
🤙🏼
Thanks Tupi!!
Super fun video. Comments on surfer quality are true only at certain times of the year. In summer (when the waves are the best due to Malibu's south facing coastline), there are more less-skilled surfers out there. Yes, the greats are also there, but the warmth brings out the crowds. It's those times that etiquette goes out the window.
Ohh very interesting! Most of my cali trips have been winter... maybe that's why haha
Great video! What a treat to get to hear Devon's commentary on his own waves. What is he doing with his feet/positioning exactly at 8:08-8:12? I've seen him do it in other videos. Is it a check turn? A mini stall or what he refers to as the redirect when he's moving back out of the pocket? I love how he transitions and draws lines, doesn't spend time hunting the nose, you get the feeling it's more about the rhythm and pace, as you mentioned, with that relaxed focus :)
I couldn't agree more! Obviously iv'e been looking at his surfing a lot during the editing process... the flow is unreal. Really makes me look at my surfing differently. What he was doing there is just a stall basically. Kinda a turn stall to get farther back in the wave to hopefully hit a noseride
I live here and never take it for granted
awesome,, enjoy it haha!
Fun video!
Thanks!!
"Focus and relaxing are intertwined"
-Surfer
I’m very happy that you did Surf Malibu and you got hooked up with that surf club to get a board and you got the Surf with Devon Howard. And I know what you mean when it’s difficult to get a wave. I wanna be active when I go surfing or go on a surf trip not just do a lot of sitting and not catching much waves. That’s very frustrating so appreciate the advice because it was your experience and I kind of figured it would be that way in Malibu. Just imagine you were surfing it small imagine if it was firing. Oh my God, then the whole crew would be out. !!
Yea for real! I want to be moving lol... i HATE sitting and waiting. If you go to Malibu with plenty of time on your hands then it's no problem
I surf SoCal San Diego and many of the breaks can get quick action as well. You can enhance that action by cheating with directional takeoffs, closer-to-the-nose takeoffs, and/or foot placement on the popup. Each wave break is different and one can experiment depending. That's the art of it and I'm still figuring it out. Great video and I love his suggestions on setting up a better noseride. Brian I have some ideas for your next SoCal trip. Not sure the best way to contact you.....
Wow awesome! well you live in the longboard paradise that's for sure haha! Sure, DM me on instagram @longboard_sessions
Great content, my 1st experience surfing was Doheny in Dana Point, beginners hell but fun with 200 other kooks lol. Now back in the South, I'm heading down to Fort Walton Beach Florida, good place for noobies like myself, pretty decent surf seen , then maybe over to Folly Beach SC or Carolina Bch NC.
haha nice! I do want to try dana point some day. Florida as well... many places to travel!
I surfed Malibu the first time a few days ago, and I also suffered from impatience. For me (most of my surfing has been East Coast), I was also fooled by waves that were steepening up, as though they were about to break, but then still 20-30 feet from breaking. The beach topography is very gradual. I stalled out several times and only managed a couple of OK rides. My best ride was caught inside, after I had already decided to paddle back to the beach. But I was impressed by how friendly and chill everybody was, especially considering it's such a famously crowded spot.
wow awesome! Very similar experience. Yea overall everyone was very easy going. I'm sure there are other spots in Cali that are not as easy going haha
Yeah, and probably less easy going on a more crowded bigger day. There are definitely grumpier breaks, but to be fair, one of the worst experiences I've had the last year was at Cape Hatteras. @@LongboardSessions
Reminds me of 5 days of surfing by myself in Cayucos Ca. I missed a whole week of work. Surfers do silly things like that and i would do it again
haha awsome!!
When I surfed Malibu there were only three surfers out--because the waves were incredibly small. But I still got a few rides in.
I kinda wanna try it on a day like that. I think it would be fun small
Solid review!
Thanks bro!
Dora is the real story of Malibu and that will never change.
When I was learning to surf , it was hard to watch your videos because your also learning to surf😮 Maybe you'll transition away from just nose rides to some other moves like floaters, cutbacks, tubes and just outrunning bombs. Watching competition longboarders helped my imagination and style adapt , so many moves It blew my mind...
Yea watching the pros can help for sure! Can't wait to start adding more manuevers and style to my surfing
dude. you're such a good dude.
thanks so much!!
Great video!
thanks!!
Great Video, thanks for making it. What board size did you have?
Thanks!! 9'6" COS Chingona
Great video. When you get a wave in Malibu it is such a feeling. Did you get to make it further south for the epic waves in SD?
yes for real! Not on that trip. Farthest south iv'e gone is Sano. Many sd spots I wanna try tho
Ahhh Malibu one of the surfing icons of the world (not as good as Noosa!!) I went there and enjoyed good waves with great locals albeit bloody cold water.
OOO so I guess noosa has to be my next trip! haha!
Wow, having watched all of your videos, it’s so cool to see you surfing in my backyard.
Was there a particular tide and/or wave size you looked for before getting in at Malibu? Or is it decent conditions most of the time?
You know i'm not exactly sure. I was just following devons advice for the most part. I know malibu is not as consistent as other spots from what I understand
Great video 🙌
Thanks!!
Welcome back to RUclips 😂 What a great wave...if you think that's crowded you should check our local break here in Cape Town. Very rarely do you have a wave to yourself....
Thanks!! Oh man that's brutal.. I'd probably pick worse waves that are less crowded haha
@LongboardSessions that is an option...otherwise it's a sunrise surf to miss the crowds..interested to see the video on board design. Busy having myself another board made up at the moment.
Yes that's typcally what I do anyway. Even in NJ. Always sunrise to avoid crowds
Loving the way this video was created, quite innovative. Malibu sucks because of the crowd, and I've heard it's full of bum RVs now just like Topanga, methies run that whole county, don't step on any needles if you go people.
Thanks!! Yea there wer're some rough spots for sure. In fact a crazy person nearly ruined our interview by singing at the top of his lungs for periods of time. It was quite eventful
@@LongboardSessions Sadly LA county is not safe anymore. Glad I got to enjoy it when it was, definitely do VC or OC next time and keep up the good work.
It looks like the freeway you have to drive to get there
Amazing vid
Thanks!!
Wow what a beautiful wave! Its a shame we couldn't see it working when we visited Malibu for the day. Traveler Surf Club is such a cool concept! I just heard a podcast from the founder on the Second Breakfast with Surf With Amigas podcast. Two questions: what are the yellow bands around the arms and ankles? And can you do a video about positioning like how you talked about at the end of the video when the other girl was also on the wave? Loved the video!!
Thanks!! Ok, the yellow reflector bands is to help my wife spot me while she's filming. Not easy when everyone looks the same lol. Also, I do have a video on positioning here ruclips.net/video/-sQeYrhcWVM/видео.html
Travelers is the schnizzel. A surf shop for adults, with the coolest concept around. They are my go to, whenever I'm in Pacifica, Santa Cruz, or LA. Go, see for yourself
Dude , welcome to Malibu 🏄🏻♂️🤙🏻
Thanks!!
"Wheew it's cold"... I doubt it. I just surfed in 39 degree water the other day haha
haha! Well, it was cold given what we we're wearing and what the surrounding days we're like. But yea... come to jersey and we'lll show you cold!
Love the mic in the water. Which one do you use? Thanks for thr amazing videos. Really cozy style of editing. Makes me wanna head out and chill on the water.
thanks!! Using a zoom f2
@@LongboardSessionshow do you water proof it?
Come out to Montauk ! You will not regret it. Closer trip than California
Yes! It's in the cards for sure
Fun vid! So different from 50’s early 60’s now. We looked to Dora & Fain without any YT instructions … 😂 … And if you took off in front of Dora, your life was over 😱
haha!! There were a couple heavy locals like that while I was there. The seas parted when they we're on a wave. It was fascinating.
Da Cat! ...or to those who saw his wrath "the black knight" ....what a legend.
Also I think you would love Kai Salles boards as well... Good bless happy surfing
Possibly! I have many boards to try hehe
Let us know when you're coming to Costa Rica!!! ;)
Oh it's gonna happen....
all i heard was me saying wtf, keep going DEVON!
haha!
Devon is so Beast
Totally!
If you liked The Bu, you need to drive north to Rincon!
Oh yes please..!
Alohaaaa, Malibu was a great experience
Yes! It was awesome
Hi! My name is Béla, and I am a surf instructor for the DWV (German Surfing Association).
In my pursuit of a Bachelor's degree, I have chosen to explore the topic of "An international Study on the relevance of Ocean Awareness Skills for recreational surfing."It's inspired by a concept of Martin Dunn whom youre probably familiar with, he's a high performance surf coach from Australia.
I am interested in understanding the significance and synergies of Ocean Awareness skills compared to other surfing abilities. Specifically, I aim to investigate their role in the teachings of various surf schools and national surfing associations, particularly in the context of recreational surfing. Would you be open to do an interview? It's for a purely academic purpose and independet of any assosiaction- realted activities.
Cheers, Béla
What are you using to record audio in the water?! This is legit
Thanks!! Zoom f2 in a waterproof bag hehe. Little more to it than that but thats about it
I play water polo and want to mic up some players
Curious about your set up!
It kinda seems like you need to be doing more cutbacks and turns. I surf VB so I understand the beach breaks, but I go down to the lighthouse in Buxton all the time and that can be a nice point. It’s all about cutting back into the pocket.
Oh yes for sure. It's something that's been lacking in my surfing!
@@LongboardSessions I liked the video! There is a spot under the bay bridge tunnel that’s accessible by boat that turns into a super fun left hand point break when a hurricane is spinning out by Bermuda. It’s kinda tough to get to, so I don’t mind posting about it, but if you can get access to a boat out of lynnhaven inlet it’s like a 40 minute trip out there. It’s always completely empty.
wow lol! Sounds like an adventure that's for sure!@@smelltheglove2038
@@LongboardSessions it’s called fisherman’s island. I think there is an older video on RUclips of the spot when it’s doing its thing. I see you ride goofy foot, that’s why I mentioned it. It’s one of the only point breaks on the east coast that I know of. You can also launch a boat on the eastern shore, which might be a better option coming south from NJ down 13. There’s a bunch of unexplored coast line and barrier islands to explore along the eastern shore too. I wish I had a proper boat and the time. Haha.
Please compare greenough 4A 10.5 , volan and normal type☺︎
Oh that would be a fun comparison!
Malibu, one of the Crown Jewels of the California coastline, perhaps the world. It should need no introduction. It’s like going to a world famous basketball court and showing up with no skills and expecting to get on the court and play with the big dogs. Sure it’s a public place but show some respect.
Yea it really is a special place!
Best quote: why would you ride a longboard if not for noseriding....
haha yes!! good one
We all know you are thinking it… so When are you moving out West?
haha don't think we have't looked at properties......but yea probably not gonna happen. We have 30+ family members who all live fairly close here in NJ.
exactly jersey is calling you back home adios road trip back to jersey bye.
haha! I've been loving surfing jersey since surfing Cali. I have a new appreciation. However, Cali is the longboarding mecca for sure
I live in Uruguay, South America and NJ is so like here.
Oh nice!! Can't wait to start trying out some south america spots!
@@LongboardSessions This is our most well-working beach break. Two hours drive from home sadly :(
ruclips.net/video/2MbnXri8k3I/видео.html
Head south Dude. Avoid Malibu at all costs.
haha! It was a fun experience for sure, but yes i'll be searching out some less crowded spots
Fun to pay respects to the BU but south is where the fun surf is. I love Swamis, Cardiff Reef and WindNSea . Crowds everywhere unfortunately. @@LongboardSessions
@@MrApplebumPS those are my spots too! ....San Diego has the most chill line up.
@@MrApplebumPS nice! Yea mr. tuchscher has turned me on to some of those places. Haven't surfed them yet... next time i'm out there hopefully!
La Jolla Cove too ❤@@LongboardSessions
traditional longboarding in modern times is vlogging? faark
hmm can you elaborate?
Don't go there,it will will just piss you off. ☠
I guess it likeliy depends on the day hehe
Why because rip curl surfing mahu's will attack you 😂
haha
I went to jail for clickbaiting
How long is your sentence?
@@LongboardSessions 6 words
might get early parole for correct punctuation✌✌