Let me know your craziest localism stories!! I'm super overwhelmed with the response to this video; thank you so much for all your comments and stories; I've loved reading them! Please understand if I can't get back to all of you).
Not very exciting but a friend of mine being punched in the face by a Sayulita Local (Mexico), after the guy burned him and they crashed because my friend kept riding the wave... We then moved to another spot with less people and the locals were way friendlier...
I’ve been surfing for over 30 years all over the world. My experience is that roughly half of surfers are really cool and the other half are complete assholes.
That's funny I live by the 50/50 rule on everything. It's like 50 percent of the breaks and 50 percent of the surfers. 50/50 It's a very strange culture of dicks and bros. All trying to enjoy the ocean.
I like to read the seasoned surfer. I've started 2 years ago. My hypothesis is that surfing surged in popularity, especially during COVID, hence making the surf spots super crowded. Older surfers feel invaded and entitled 😅 I kind of understand that. In the few spots where I have been the feeling is from neutral to a bit hostile. No way I dare into a crowded place. Aggression is the likely outcome. At the time where surf etiquette is most needed, it's hardly existent.
I’ve been living in Japan and the locals are SO nice. Inside of the water and out. It makes it an enjoyable experience when everyone humbles their ego…
I have a technique I recommend. 1) grin at everyone like youre mental. 2) paddle up to every local and tell them how great they are. 3) thank everyone whenever you catch a wave. And tell them how grateful you are for their kindness. 4) start conversations with people even when they flatout ignore you and pretend youre not there, and tell them how much youre enjoying the people and the vibe.... After a while od this they start to either THINK youre insane and let you just keep going so you dont kill, putrify and eat them. Or they get seduced by your kindness and realize that being kind back actually feels good. Next thing you know the local charger is yelling at you, "Go! Go! Go!" (So you do) "Yesssssssss Maaaaaaaaannnnn!" Trust me. It works.
I had a local in Morocco get pissed at me for just being in the water near where he was lining up but I slapped a big grin on my face and said "just enjooooy", gave him some space and later on that day we were splitting the peak. Kill them with kindness!
I used to live in Morocco in the 90's and the localism was horrendous, the irony was though it was the French surfers who were the worst ,not the Moroccans. I had a good friend who was born in Casablanca and we travelled and surfed together a lot, one day we went to Saffi ( essffi) which is now a surf camp and well known back in the early 90's it was French only and virtually unknown, we surfed it empty. My fried a local had his tires slashed for taking me their. I actually speak French and Arabic ( more Arabic than many of the local French guys) and I still got grief from the French even after 5 years. The lunacy of localism enforced by non native surfers never ceased to amaze me.
As a Moroccan now living and surfing in the US I agree. My dad surfed in the 70’s in Morocco and use to tell me stories about the French…well those days are gone. The surf culture have very much changed. I think some spots still show some local aggression but not as much as back in the 90’s
As a longtime Hawaii surfer, I learned to ALWAYS watch the waves carefully for awhile before paddling out to observe rips, set intervals and such. It's the same with the crowd; observe, take the temperature and don't rush in. Feel the mood of the lineup and earn your turn.
I live in Santa Cruz CA where every local at every break just waxes your board for you and lets you paddle right out to the bowl every time with no hassle! Ha ha...
Ah yes, wonderful Santa Cruz. I'm up at Ocean Beach but the free wax job has me heading down often. I remember a small summer Sunday at pleasure, saw a sullen bearded local walking down a, let's say, advanced beginner on the inside and eventually they had words and began to square up. Nothing out of the ordinary so far, but then this 10-11 year old kid comes in and starts yelling at the local, "Stop daddy, stop it!". Blech, that one was rough.
when i first went to sw france i paddled out at a kind of unknown hidden spot, tiny waves, some teenager pointed for me to go back to hossegor, i said i'd just driven 2000 miles and laughed. but i did get out and it did freak me out a bit. Then a few days later i was across the border in the spanish basque and was really wary cos of being told to get out in france. Then twice what happened once at very friendly sized roca puta, was the locals could see i was holding back and waved me over to the spot so i could catch some waves. Couldn't believe it, it warmed my heart
One of the most welcoming vibes I ever got was at a fickle, semi-secret spot on the North Shore of Maui in the 90s. Clean bowling lefts, 4-6' Hawaiian, maybe 10-12 people out, even as a haole with minimal suntan and no friends there people were smiling, telling me "go, brah!" when a set came in. It was great.
Lived in Hawaii (Oahu) for 9 years. Never had a problem. I did see some 'almost' fights though. Every time it was in 2-3 foot surf where a surfer from the mainland who just got off the plane would paddle straight out to the peak, catch a wave (calling everyone else off), turn around and paddle out straight to the peak again and catch the next wave (again screaming "I GOT IT!"). A big Hawaiian would paddle up to him after a few waves and say "Hey bra, shoots, give some wave for da other." The mainland surfer would ignore him and paddle right back out to the peak. It wouldn't be pretty. Then he would go home and tell everyone how 'localism' is out of control in Hawaii.
There is truth to this. Guilty as charged - I remember many years ago right after landing in Lihue {my first trip to the islands} I jumped in the warm water at a North Shore beachbreak, just absolutely frothing full-tilt. My friend who was a local there, was telling me to settle down. I couldn't stop catching all those amazing beachbreak waves. My friend then turned to point at another local, who was likely an uncle, just shaking his head and yelling to himself in frustration. I was a piggy that day no doubt, lessons learned.
@@ChristopherDillman Wait what did you do wrong here? I'm guessing the line up was not crowded at all on some random beach break, and would anyone else have even caught a single one of those waves? IDK man.. people trippin over someone out there having a blast L:
Morocco is awesome if you are with a surf guide or group - the locals respect you as you surf with guys they’ve known their whole lives. They don’t like guys travelling in vans and cars who don’t pay for accomodation because they aren’t giving much to the community. That’s what I found speaking to some locals, but I got some all time waves down there, love that place
The southern Mexico scene is interesting--they kept a lid on things for many years but then Rip Curl came with the Search contest (2011?) and suddenly it was on the map. The locals banded together and created a system where you needed a local guide to surf some of the breaks there. You could get a "waiver" and go without a guide by, for example, donating an old laptop to a local school, or fulfill an equivalent community need. The guides would coordinate and arrange it so that none of the breaks were overrun and the visiting surfers were spread out well. They would also regulate the lineups in what appeared to be a fair and reasonable manner. You had to be behaving quite poorly to be asked to leave, but it would happen. I've done a bunch of traveling and would normally be opposed to having a guide, however many of the breaks are remote and would be very hard to find without prior knowledge, and it was very well run--the vibe in the lineup was always chill, the usual tension between individual surfers was largely absent, because everyone knew where they stood and the guides all knew each other. Not sure if it's still working, but I was impressed. I got tons of waves that trip too.
Hey mate!! Thanks for the story and I know all the points down in Salina Cruz are still "privatised" and you need a guide to surf them, but Barra is open to anyone these days. Although the locals definitely still get their waves!
Thx for explaining, especially since I'm planning a trip there next year at a surf resort with a guide. Makes sense. I've heard there are many points as good as Barra on the way south towards Salina Cruz. Do you find this to be true?
Nothing like saying your waves need to be protected, and then whoring them out for a bit of money. The guide thing down there really seems like one of the more disgusting examples of prostituting out the sport.
Was Lucky enough to surf this area before the contest with nobody out. Went back two years ago, spots are over crowded, too many "surf guide" with 10 surfers each on each spots. No worth the money, to share the wave with 50 other guys!
Luanda Bay, CA was very localized when I would surf there in the early 80’s…Locals would rain down rocks from the 100’ bluff on surfers walking to the break and then vandalize their cars…classy group
The Bay Boys make for good narrative because hating the 1% is easy, but the truth is Pedro (TC's, Palms, etc) has always been and still is more localized than PV. In the 80s, the real scary ones that you just absolutely did not paddle out at unless you were invited were the Redondo Breakwall with the Carson Carvers and The Strand in Oxnard. Both of those like PV, had people start getting in trouble with the law. It just didn't get the same level of coverage because it didn't generate the same level of outrage.
I started surfing in the 80’ and began the surf travel thing in the 90’ to most of the spots you talk about in your videos. The world was a completely different place and surfing for the most part was still considered a fringe sport in most places. Never had any problems with localism even in Hawaii. The way we were raised in surfing and watched over by the older local crew at home was that of respect your elders and to play by the unwritten rules. It’s not that hard. Fast forward to today and I won’t go surfing if there’s too many people. And I’m still as fit as a fiddle. Most of the name breaks are overrun and a lot of people paddle out with a sense of entitlement. A lot of the new surfers haven’t grown up with surfing and will never get it. They aren’t happy to wait in line. Some waves you will have to wait 3 hours for a wave and that’s just the way it is, even if you are local. People expect to paddle out and take what they please. Need to change the mindset to appreciation that you get to go surfing rather than expecting. Appreciate the video.
Spot on...surfing's been branded to the world with no connection to its history...everywhere I go I respect locals.but crowds are so bad now at many spots there's no self regulation...surfed with plenty of clueless surfers.they make surfing stressful and dangerous
Thanks for taking a risk to present this. You're discussing a really dark side of surf culture that few people like to really elaborate on, that hard-core travellers like yourself see almost daily. I grew up in Honolulu and surfed in the 70's and found the crowds gnarly back then. I decided to quit surfing in '81 (lasted 10 years) due to the shitty urban vibe that took over even on the lamest days, and headed for Central America, where it's a similar vibe and I learned I was a part of the tourist crowd problem.Too much demand, limited supply, and high expectations for glory in the water. The pro circuits and media exploit these expectations and serve as a raw marketing tool for tourism in these areas. Putting waves on a pedestal with a 1000mm lens shooting a half-mile-away wave and social media feeding this to billions creates distortions in people's minds about what these locations are really like.
I grew up surfing Makaha in the early/mid 1960s - big mixed bag for sure. Back then Buffalo's children (Rusty & Brian) were in diapers with Buffalo being the king surfer of Makaha with no need to prove anything so, the locals were mostly cool though fights did break out now and again mostly with surfers from "town (Honolulu!)" - Lmao. Then later in the early 1980s I got into windsurfing in Hawai'i and it was a much more pleasant experience.
My 2 cents. I went to arica and iquIque and took photos of the locals, gave them the footage and they invited me to parties and showed me 2 secret spots. Surfed Portugal Supertubos perfect 5 - 6 foot super crowded and no trouble at all. Same with Puerto Escondido, when it gets over 6 foot you pretty much can take any wave you want. I would only agree with Hawaii, that is a horrible experience surfing there.
yup you did it the right way rangatrips. you HAVE to immerse yourself into the culture. I went to school near Supertubos and spending time with everyone on the beach and in the water was key. I went outta my way to get to know all the surfers....now I can cruise in any time any day and they all still know me...generations too since we used to spend summers there down from Norway...5 months of non stop surfing
@@barne3668 it's such an awesome town! Apparently before it was a surf town it was just hardcore fisherman living there. Must be wierd for those original locals to see how the town has transformed.
I drove out to CA from NJ to SB 1980 and I began surfing Rincon. This 15 year old punk hot shot kid who thought he was the crowned king world surf champion dropped in on me and then dropped in on me again. I was taking off from indicator and making it through river mouth section but he dropped in on me twice. After the second time I had to explain things to him what was going to happen next if he drops in on me again. He said he didn't think I could make the section that is why he took off and he apologized......he didn't ever do it again on any day any swell as I saw him many times and said hello and talked to him often. The kid was Tommy Curren. In SB at that time the Haskells crew were quite territorial and violent. I went there one day for the first time after work and as I was walking down the trail two haskell locals were coming up the path leaving. I am NYC, NJ street smart and know how to handle myself and basically an ass kicking killer at that time. I could see they were looking for trouble, sizing me up by the expressions on their faces and were going to try and jump me or something of the sort. That would have been the worst mistake of their lives. Using my quick thinking NJ/NYC street smarts I immediately turned it all around by asking them if (certain person who I worked with and surfed Rincon with, #1 badass of their own haskells crew) was out surfing. That immediately stopped them in their tracks as they knew if they messed with me they would catch hell from him for messing with one of his friends. So basically....my point is....always try and make friends with locals.....always think....always be cool.....try and diffuse any situation....talk.....be nice.....be polite....never be a dick in the lineup....never drop in on anyone....wait your turn....share waves...and if you have to kick ass....then kick ass with extreme violence and prejudice to teach bullies a life lesson.
A good 10 years ago I went to check out the south tip of Fuerteventura with my girlfriend. There's a a pretty sick spot down there that doesn't break very often, and I know it's localised, but when we showed up it was just a knee high peeler, though very pretty and glassy, and there wasn't a soul in sight. So we decided to go for a romantic little couple-longboard session, great times. Suddenly a local guy showed up, paddled out on his shortboard and started to drop in on as many waves as he could, which he could barely surf because it was knee high. But just for the sake that noone could surf there and to stay true to his spot. It was super awkward, we just tried to ignore him. At some point I kind started joking with him, but he ignored me. I guess he did feel kind of stupid in the end, because it was just superweird. He did succeed in ruining a nice moment with my girl, and we never came back, so he wins I guess.
Compared to snowboarders and skaters, surfers are really selfish and territorial. I can say that because I've done all three sports throughout life. Its learned behavior and really unnecessary. There could be plenty of waves for everyone but people like to hog the peak and try to pretend they're pros LOL! Excellent video, by the way. Love the drone shots and variety.
I surfed and snowboarded a lot more than skated in my life, but I can definitely say that skaters are the chillest of the three groups. Surfers ruin surfing.
You can't really compare surfing to those other sports. Surf by its nature is a finite resource and so there's etiquette needed to share the resource that is largely adhered to. I think locals do deserve a certain amount of priority in their home spots, especially in countries which have already been colonised once and now have to deal with tourists coming and thinking they own the place. In my experience, if you're respectful, surfers are a cool bunch (notwithstanding a few complete fuckheads).
@@monkeymansean2 Snowboarding is the same. Limited terrain, finicky conditions, and more people than space. In some ways it's more competitive because people are paying up to $300 just to get up the mountain. But surfers are definitely more aggro and less tolerant.
I was in Morocco for 2 weeks last month and had no problems. We had a car and were off the beaten track, but we gave the local groms lifts from the beach to village every day, gave them some gear, locals were telling us the best tides for each spot etc. Sometimes they asked for some wax, occasional surf instructor a bit greedy in the water but other than that was cool. Also found when it was bigger but say a bit choppy, then pretty empty. Ideal for us from Scotland where seldom super clean anyway. But I think you need to be prepared to get away from organised groups or surfcamps if you wanna avoid the crowds there. The only aggression was driving in Agadir at rush hour, that's way scarier than anything in the water 😅
Australian here, if your cool we're cool, I travel and surf a lot, recently surfing in Victoria I'm waiting my turn and the locals are being really cool asking me where I'm from it's really good, an hour into my surf this guy starts paddling in front of my on every wave I paddle for, so I ask one of the locals I'd been talking to if he was one of them, they said they'd never seen him before, the whole vide of the session changed which was a real bummer, short story is the local's started hassling him for every wave he paddled for and I bet he tells stories about how bad localism is there. With regards to being on your phone at not popular surf in Australia, don't, we get dickheads rocking up to our local and texting their mates or taking photos and posting on social media and in most place you'll get called out for it. In Australia if you show respect, you'll get respect, there are a couple of exception's of course
Agree 100% but not every spot is like that. I was in south Portugal in November and going to empty spots ( not famous, not crowded). Once I entered and I was surfing knee-waist wave very weak. A surf school just left the water before me. The teacher came with the foamy and keeping blocking my take off… what a looser. And then basically all around Algarve is like that. Impressively famous spots are super chill if just using common basic respect …. In winter even more. Edit: quite what he talked about
Local at Lorne on a 12 foot Mal - 6inches thick taking every wave. EVERY WAVE. Couldn't believe it. Whats worse is he was 70 years old. Catch a wave into the beach, then paddle back out before anyone could even turn around for the next wave. I was glaring at him as went out - he just smiled from behind his HUGE David Boone moustache and folded his arms on the top of his board as he flew by. It was then I realized he had a secret electric motor in his board and was cheating. Everyone started laughing - he kept cheating, but it was ok because he was funny, local and 70. Australians are generally very chill.
I've surfed every spot he mentions here and never had a problem. Actually every time I paddle out anywhere, everyone goes straight to the beach and either starts filming me or they borrow some paper and start taking notes. It's awesome to be me.
@@wildthing7783 first of all, lids were surfing that wave long before those guys were. Second of all, putting a wave “on the map” is the very definition of blowing out a spot, isn’t it? Third of all, I don’t give a fuck what they call themselves. From all appearances they are not much more than a group of parochial, uneducated, small minded tools who think they are entitled to literally possess waves in places they don’t even live, tools you evidently look up to. What does that make you?
Fiji bruv. No other place people cheer new commers into the wave. The only time there's any 'thats my wave vibe' is from foreigners. Only time I've seen someone get told to exit was when they dropped in on a grom (foreigner as well) in a barrel. Massive local just went and told the dude, "baratha, you can't do that man its dangerous, please go wait in the boat don't scare the kids." - that's it. Ha ha ha ha.
surfing La Santa 4 guys out (early 90's), head and a half. The other three guys were all locals and 2 of them were super hot surfers. The other one was an Intermediate. I was sitting a bit wide letting the 2 hotties get their fill and snagging a few of their leftovers whilst chatting to the other friendly guy. Then a set came through the hotties had been on the earlier set so i was in plum position. As I paddled one of the surfers paddling out paddled straight in front of me and turned for the wave, by this time it was too late to pull out so I basically went over the falls on top of him. As you can guess lots of heated Spanish expletives, and pointing to the beach. As there was only him causing problems I stood my ground and carried on surfing !!!!! but then about 1/2 dozen of his mates got in so I got out, just to be safe
@@DanHarmon123 Mate, I surfed Tamarin in 1999. Scored it going off its tits. Turns out I miraculously befriended the White Shorts alphas. I had one name of a guy there who happened to be the top pro in Mauritius at the time. I met him and after that, I was in the mafia. I'm still friends with some of the locals there to this day. In fact, and I swear this is true, swear on my mother's life, I was out surfing one day with a local guy named Jean-Pierre (JP) and I was in position for a bomb. I called JP into the wave even though I could have had an epic ride. He paddled back with a huge smile and I asked him how it was. He was frothing. Then I told him I thought he was in a better spot, so I gave it to him. After that, we got talking and just had a great session trading off waves. Later on, when I went in, I was talking to the other locals and saying I surfed with JP. And they were like, "what? and he didn't break out your fins?" Haha! Bizarre, but somehow I had the trip of a lifetime in Mauritius!!
@@benclarke8861 I went to Mauritius in the early 90s me and a mate paddle out those white shorts or black shorts whatever the they are told us to f--k off i I have box for 30 years and my mate was a pro kickboxer we told them we were gonna bash the lot of them they shit themselves never said one word to us for a month I seen Aussies and Americans Surfer sitting on the beach too scared to go out till they come in And they were a bunch of kooks French guys they weren’t Mauritian
I ve got a good one for you... The left hander at Atalaia, in Santa Catarina, Brazil is heavily localized... I lived in the area for a little over 10 years and never managed to surf... It s a well known localized spot, so usually no ones try to surf it, but if by chance you wanna have a go and park your car on the parking lot, by the time you get back your tires will be sliced... I once saw a former brazilian CT surfer go for a surf and by the time he came back his car was upside down... The wave breaks next to a pier, so some locals will stand in there throwing rocks and shouting to the crowd. Very bad vibe honestly. The wave itself is wicked and on a good day will run for 150-300m. Shame I never had a chance to surf it.
So true, used to live my whole life close to Atalaia, you can only manage to surf there if you be come friends with a local and they invite you over for a surf. Had a mate that took him 2 years to get the “invitation”. Bloody ridiculous
You have a nice chill demeaner Dan, I live in Portugal and haven't experienced too much localism but I've mainly been surfing around Lisbon / Erriceira .
@@Legoboygago us in Australia are sick of tourists aswell, i don’t think Brazilians know the word “surf ettiqutte” and as Dan would say”no offense to Brazil, I’m sure there’s plenty of wonderful people” 😂 my step mum is Brazilian and I bet if she surfed she’d be the same 😂 nah but fr Aussies are some of the worst locals , I should know I’ve seen my family punch people in the face in the water all the time , not unusual for Gold Coast. But yeah , Portugal doesn’t get the kinda tourist crowds we get at the super bank so be happy with whatever you’ve got I’ve basically given up at my home break of snapper. No one knows how dangerous what they are doing is, I personally have been burned a billion times and even gotten into a fight as the person who got burned 😂😂😂 surfers are legit 50/50 psychos , or the coolest people you know
I cannot relate to your story about peniche, the locals are so nice. Perhaps you surfed with the wrong crowed. Try to make some conversation in the line-up next time
My Rocky point storey from 1988. It was head high perfect for a teenage Australian kid surfing Hawaii for the first time with only my Dad, brother and me out. I caught five or six perfect Rocky rights, then six other foreign surfers padded out and straight away started dropping in on my dad and brother and then one dropped in on my next wave and i wiped out hard. Next minute once i got back on my board to start paddling back out a heap of probably around ten Hawaiians were paddling straight out towards me, shouting and yelling, paddling like mad men. The first couple made sure i was alright, and kept going out, one guy stopped and asked about me and told me don't worry we have been watching you when you first paddled out, you caught some nice one foot waves. I was like no way these waves are six foot clean and overhead, i remember his laugh as he was splashing me with water and what he said was " you should have been here last week, it was pumping, it's only tiny today that's why you had it to yourselves, we'll take care of these kooks". By the time i got back out to where my dad and brother were in the line up talking with two other locals and the other ten or so circled the group of surfers that came and interrupted our waves and they were paddled way out into the bay. It was very cool as a fifteen year old Aussie kid surfing Hawaii with my family, and treated like this was an amazing experience for methat have been in my memory for a very long time. 💚🌊🤙
I surfed Mundacca in 1980 and the Spanish were horrible after 9:30 ish in the morning.They had shit wetsuits so would wait until it warmed up, then they would scream at any traveler getting a good wave.I went to a secret spot and never got out of the car as it rained for 2 straight days.About 10 years later in Mainland Mexico I mentioned this spot to a Spaniard,He put 2 and 2 together and figured out who had told me about the spot that I never even saw break.He was so pissed he was ready to fly home and kill some Aussies !Crazy!!
Grew up in Santa Cruz. I started surfing in the early 00’s and it was still pretty heated. 90’s were all out fist fight. I think 80’s even more so. Now you’ll get an earful if you fuck up but no one wants to go to jail. Had a few scary run ins as a grom and learned some important lessons on respect and knowing one’s place in the lineup, which helped me when I’ve traveled to other localized spots.
Dude its funny because Ive spent 7 months in Australia (mostly snappers, dbah), 2 months in portugal (lisbon, ericeira), a couple of weeks in Canary Islands (north shore Fuerteventura, lobos, el hierro) and surfed Anchor Point in Morocco as well. I have almost no stories of agressive localism.
A nearby wave where I was living in Japan had a sign spray painted "Rocals Only". I always got a kick out of that. But I did have a ridiculous run-in with "rocals" at a different secret spot.
Great video Dan! Ive surfed the gold coast a few occasions and its a little weird out there. Ive had days like you mentioned with heaps of people out and fights happening, people dropping in and absolute chaos.(snapper rocks, dbah, etc) But then on the other end when we would surf in Byron Bay. the locals would literally be yelling at us wanting us to drop in on them and share the wave. every wave was a party wave there. XD. definitely all sorts of vibes at the different spots there.
gold coast (snapper mainly) is a bit of a joke about how hard it is to get a wave, and when you do you probably get dropped in on but most other parts of australia is fine if you're surfing to the rules and having respect in the lineup. I'm from Byron area and i surf all up and down the coast, as well as localised lineups like Angourie and Iluka, if you're surfing with respect you shouldn't have an issue no matter where you're from...
I think in general when you are a local (how ever you define that) in a reasonably well known place, you are used to seeing new people in the water. It's just normal. It's not like people will send you in at bells or snapper or the Sydney beaches just because they don't know you. Of course there are exceptions, but those are exceptions, not the rule. Generally speaking, in Australia people follow the rules.
I take out my false teeth..pop a fake blood balloon with the few remaining real teeth..start crying and laughing simultaneously all the while making grotesque grunting noises. . .i get all the waves I want..no problem.
In the 70s when I was in my 20s I lived and surfed Tenerife (Canary islands) and I swear there was just myself and one local lad who surfed, and that was it. There were no other surfers, just local swimmers. It was paradise. Of course now every dickhead wants to surf.
Friendliest surf destination for me was Dakar Senegal 🇸🇳 The locals have a pure stoke for surfing and genuinely interested in learning from traveling surfers. It’s called the “smiling coast” and similar to Peniche its on a peninsula so somewhere is always offshore! Super clear water as well
personally I have seen the worst localism in the places where the surf is the most consistent (Canaries, Mexico, Marocco) and some of the nicest locals in places where the surf is not consistent but good when it's on (Mediterranean). However there is good and bad everywhere to some extent...
@@DanHarmon123 when the surf is not consistent and you get that one epic swell 3 times a year you're just the happiest person in the world and there is no room for localism or any hatred left in your brain.
I agree, I m from Barcelona and even though the waves suck and are scarce, people is very friendly. It shocks me that, in places that have plenty of waves everyday, they have such bad localism
That morocco story is WILD!! The dude rubbing the neck of the girl you were with. omg. Also surprises me that they would be so unfriendly in the water, I def. didn't realize that was the case. Thanks for the video. Great content!
They have a very bad mentality towards outsiders because they are locked on where they live. They can't go around the world to travel for surf, so they hate you and try to keep you away from the one thing they got.
My approach has always been scan the beach for locals. Walk up to them tell them I'm not from there and ask if they mind if I paddle out. 7 times out of 10 I'll hear something akin to, "appreciate the respect bra" and oftentimes someone might even paddle out with me and either introduce me or make sure the locals know I was okay. And even if they don't want me paddling out I've avoided the hassle or beat down. Then just sit in the line up, get the vibe...I've even asked if it was okay for me to grab a wave. After that you're a local too.
I see your point but i will not kiss ass to anyone ! But i’ll paddle out and always be respectful 💯 % But i’ll never leave an ocean 🌊 that nobody owns or rules but i’ll always give respect ✊ as long as it’s returned !
This argument can go both ways. Anyone who thinks they can go anywhere in the world and feel entitled to waves where they re not from do not display brotherhood or respect for their ocean brothers and sisters
Shocked Topanga wasn't mentioned went their once when it was pumping and 50 plus people for one right break... People yelling and cussing each other out. Luckily I recognized how the wave was changing with the tide (moving left) so I was able to catch a couple wide before everyone migrated over lol
@@DanHarmon123 It was a decent wave for the area espeically with the swell direction compared to other spots but still just a disgusting amount of people
Re Portugal. Most of the localism is in Peniche area, especially Molhe Leste or Supertubos. Your story is very typical there, sometimes bodyboarders would even grab you by the back if you start paddling for a wave. If you drive down south, it's way more chill towards foreigners. I lived in Peniche for a while and i've seen it all - bricks in windshields, pierced tires, cars on fire, fist fights, etc.
It´s funny you mention Australia. I agree that the popular spots suck, but my experience in the rest of Australia is really good. Most of the people understand what a line up is and it´s respected as far as you follow the rules. I have surfed in Portugal, Indo, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Spain (including canary islands) and definitely Australia is the best by far!
There are tools in every line up but generally speaking, Australians follow the rules. If you are in position, its your wave. At most spots burning people is frowned upon. But that doesn't mean people will be nice to you.
The Pass at Byron used to be fierce. The old painted sign of Locals only got changed to love only. The Wall at Ballina and also Boulders at Lennox can be quite territorial
Instagram, surfing mags and online websites/guides ruined most spots all across the world. Plus an influx of arrogant visiting surfers who want to "maximize" their vacation quotas, surf camps, etc. Lots even think that locals need to kow-tow to visitors 'cause they're bringing in business. The old formula of threading lightly, showing humbleness and respect for ALL locals still works....and lifetime friendships can develop as a bonus.
As a portuguese, unfortunatly I can confirm that has horrible localism and lots of unforgiven vibes in the water, specially to foreign people. Definitely has one of the worst crowds
yeah but what are you going to do when these people are raging assholes. common sense and courtesy only go so far. anyway most of these places are third world dumps regardless, outside of their waves.
Yeah for sure! Hmmm, I'd say Bali and Sri Lanka, maybe Ireland have the mellowest locals I've come across, that said, they still get their waves on the good days...
Great topic. I'm a retired Aussie surfer in my 60s that used to do most of my higher performance surfing at good breaks all over the south and west of Oz in the late 80s and early 90s. My 'local' was 13th Beach. I've experienced good vibes and aggro in pretty much equal measure virtually everywhere I've surfed. There usually seemed to be a correlation between wave quality, conditions ( slabiness, quality, size, crowd etc), tight intense take off zones, semi mysto waves that were harder to get to (think boat trips in Vicco), and increased aggro in my experience. And every break had it's locals that were just pricks, that would drop in on pretty much anybody, regardless of whether they were a visitor or a local. When the then Vicco surf industry boys descended on any break they usually tried, and often succeeded, in taking over and being arrogant pricks. I have no problem with pecking orders in surfing based on respect for locals and ability. I hate pecking orders based on intimidation, arrogance, ego and violence. One of my surfing buddies got punched out after being dropped in on and totally snaked by a local at a well known barrell near Bells. I've never been hit, but I've been harrassed, threatened and made to feel completely unwelcome so many times at so many different places it's ridiculous. Outback SA used to be a bit intense for that, but local slabs in Vicco were just as bad.... I'm sort of glad that as I aged, the wheel turned and I reverted to surfing less intense breaks, due to declining fitness and ability. It was so much more relaxing. I was always in it for the feelgoods anyway. Gees, I miss riding waves, but i dont miss the occasional men in grey suits. But that's another story.
Based on what you said, I think bodyboarders are normally more aggressive. My theory is that they are angry an frustrated because they cant stand up on their boards 😂
I’d say boogers are pissed at stand ups cuz they think they’re superior because they stand up. We have to fight back. Core bodyboards get sick of kooks’ prejudice; especially when they ride barrels deeper, chuck phatter airs, and have better wave knowledge. It’s worst in the US because of the macho man bullshit. Hawaii, PR, and Chile surfers do not condescend to bodyboarders nearly as much. Judge a man in the way he rides, not his wave riding vehicle.
I've surfed Portugal, Fuerte and Morocco loads over the years, I've never had a problem but I've seen some. When I've seen trouble it's usually travelling surfers dropping in and snaking....then the tension mounts. Definitely agree about the vibe out of the water in Morocco
7:34 😅 I had the same experience two years ago when I lived in Ventura, California. There's a spot that was notorious back in the 80-90' for being heavily localized and aggressive punk rock subculture. It's not as bad anymore, but some of the old guys will still threaten anyone that starts recording with their phones when the waves are firing, and tell the guys with foam boards in the parking lot to F!off kooks! 😅
As a grom in the 90s I surfed Spanish Left in Tenerife (Canary Islands). I was respectful and took what was left from the locals. I was surfing better than many of them and was wearing Scottish football shorts which gave me away of course. I was surrounded by three locals and told in no uncertain terms to leave and walk to the “foreigner’s” wave down the beach. That wave was actually bigger and played to my forehand so it worked out for me 😂
I’m from the Gold Coast, and in a strange way, the crowd almost regulates the localism… there are just so many people in the water, it’s hard for 1 person to be a total dick and get away with it… that’s unless you’re a world champ… they smoke everyone
The worst place I've ever been was in Tenerife, I waited 20 minutes next to a surfers car that got ready to leave parking spot in front of a famous peak. After 20 minutes they started to leave and a local guy came and stole my parking space claiming that he is a local and he should get it before me and told me to respect the locals😳 .
Spanish Lefts ? I’m guessing ! If so it’s got a terrible problem with localism ……i surfed it back in the 80’s and 90’s but just too crowded. I surfed Fuerteventura a lot in the 80’s because i had a mate who was an instructor out there for many years . We used to go to the bubble 🫧 quite a lot and sometimes over to Lobos but there was a local dude called Paco who was a bag of trouble 🥴
Keep seeing shots of The Pass at Byron Bay in your video, awesome wave to surf, super overcrowded and agro crowd. So many scuffles and shouting in the water lol.. Also I've copped it at the beaches in Wollongong, I was catching waves, it was small and two foot nothing special, another dude was wearing a helmet and came and was trying really hard to snipe my waves lol
My experience from Morocco ist very different. Ive had locals calling me into waves there. And obviously peope what to sell you a lot of stuff all the time but they are just generally super friendly.
Epic, that's amazing to hear mate! I definitely need to go back there, as I guess it's unfair to categorise the place based just on a couple of bad experiences!!
Hollister Ranch, CA was bad in the early 80’s too. Went with a friend who owned property and pulled up at a spot with no one out and spitting. The off duty gateman paddles out (he owns no property but is entitled because he works the gate), starts screaming “no no no!” Every time I catch a wave and acting like an idiot. Only 3 guys out! A gate man there once buried a non locals car with a bulldozer while he was surfing!!!
For a time, a friend and I would walk into a decent spot before you get to Razors and surf alone. Wet sand walk etc., the guards would stalk us inevitably just to give two competent kids a dressy down. I think that last bit you referred to, the buried car, may have been Volkswagen, happened at Cojo.
I was fortunate to surf the Ranch back in the 70's and 80's. I never had an issue. They would vandalize the hoist on the pier all the time though. Caught Drakes and Little Drakes twice in 2 weeks. It went from 1 foot mush to 6 to 8 foot nonstop waves in about 1 hour. Amazing.
When it’s good at say Super Bank or Noosa , the non locals would have to outnumber the locals by many. So surf rage is not necessarily localism but more greed and frustration.You can’t always tell whose a local anyway ,usually a good vibe when I surf there down the line a bit
Yeah there’s definitely competition for waves, I don’t bother with Snapper or Boiling Pot , too much stress and energy required,down the line a bit can still be crowded when it’s firing , but less aggression usually.However if you dropped in on one of the stars or locals you might see localism.
@@exxotixjeff2822 Localism is, in my experience, really a small town thing in Australia. There's just too many people in the big cities for a small crew to really act like they own a break.
Totally right about the localism here in Australia. All the famous circus-like points up north are just drop ins every wave and there are still a lot of lesser known spots (mostly along the southern coastline) where there's a decent chance that if they don't know you by name, you're getting your tires slashed or your head punched in. That said, in most places I'd say there's a 'healthy' level of localism where there's a pecking order and you'll be actively discouraged from being a gronk, but if you are respectful and wait your turn, you will get waves and not be hassled.
Sorry but that's total BS. There's no such thing as localism in Australia. It's impossible to tell who a local is because everyone travels and surfs everywhere.
@@shannonwebb1333 What does that even mean? So you're telling me that at my local reefbreak where I see the same people every time it breaks, it's impossible to tell who is a local, even though I know all of them by name?
@aaaaaaasdee how close do you need to live to be a local? How often do you need to surf it? Who gets to decide? If I live 10m closer than you do I get to take all your waves? Of course not. The whole thing is silly. I bet just about everytime you surf there's someone new in the water. I won't believe it for a second if you suggest otherwise. I have lived and surfed in many tiny towns up and down the entire east cost. Sure I would recognize one or two but it doesn't mean they deserve special treatment. Furthermore, if anyone ever gives "non locals" a hard time they better be sure never to travel for surf.
@@aaaaaaasdee It depends how remote you are man. Maybe you live in angourie, or king island, or some other tiny town and you do know absolutely everyone. But that's rare. Where I live, sure there are 'local's, people I recognize, some of whom I know by name, but our premiere beach break is an hours drive from a city of 5 million people. Every time its on there are dozens of people I don't recognize. Do I know, for sure, that every one of them doesn't live in the area? Of course not. Some are from the city, some are legit tourists speaking French, or Spanish or whatever, but I'm sure others are people from the area who I just don't know. if you've ever lived in a big city with surf, like Sydney and the gold coast, most of ten people you don't know in the water are locals. A good majority of them live in the area, but its just so busy there's no way you could ever know everyone. So, how do you know the guy you don't recognize isn't a local, and thus deserving of your contempt???
I don't know if this is a good or bad thing, but you didn't even scratch the surface of the absurdity of localism in Mexico 😂 Anyway - great video, keep it up.
@@DanHarmon123 yeah man. Im South African, so iv been schooled in respecting locals when paddling out at a new spot, not catching set waves until invited to do so, , not sitting at the top of the main peak. etc etc But there are a few spots at which those guys in Portugal will have none of that 😅 Friendliest people in the world on land, super scary in the water 😂
@@brentlee8085 I was staying in Ericeira and tried to surf 2 of the lesser known breaks. My experience at the popular breaks was chilled. Except for the hoardes of people. I guess this is why the locals are protective of the lesser known breaks
Hawaii was a nightmare for me. Went to Honolua Bay on Maui in 1997. It was EPIC! Only problem was, I literally got burnt on every single wave I caught. I'd literally be up and cranking down the line or in the barrel and guys would look over their shoulder right at me and blatantly drop in, nearly causing an accident every time. I might as well have been completely invisible. I've surfed across 6 continents and Hawaii and the Canary Islands were the only two places I experienced unprovoked localism. Didn't matter if I waited my turn, played by the rules. Nope, it was pretty much "get f*cked, don't want to know you" to everyone. Very sad.
@@starmania909 I know all about paying to play, but that was ridiculous. I’m not happy when my local gets tons of blow-ins, but at some point everyone should be able to get a wave without getting blatantly burnt.
@@DanHarmon123 If you make a video on the friendliest spots, you will participate in drawing crowds to them. Then those friendly locals will end up getting angry too / localism everywhere...
I grew up in a lil town where we had some great breaks few guys sitting around enjoying the waves... you gotta understand. Locals chilling where they grew up then tourists turn up paddle out n try n take over break... respect where you are its simple as that... Cant blame locals for defending their breaks.
@@Whosetheworst You can still get waves like that at Ocean Beach San Francisco but don’t go there if you aren’t experienced because you can really die there if not.
I used to live on the Gold coast in Australia and surfed at dbar a fair bit but wasn't a local. One day I went out and kinda burned a few bodyboarders about 3 waves in a row. The current was weird that day and I kept fucking up. They were, uncharacteristically, at the southern end. They were actually really patient. After three waves that were pretty good, I just moved into the middle and finished off my surf without hindering anyone.
I'm 70 and when I started traveling to surf there were no locals in the third world. Even Europe was uncrowded. Now, everywhere you go the locals surf. But all in all I prefer the modern world and it's amenities. The surf may be more crowded but it is certainly easier and cheaper to get around.
Hey Michael!! Yeah wow, would have been cool back in the day though! Your comment is super refreshing compared to the typical grumpy "surfing was better back in my day" comments hahaha!!
30 years ago I watched a very big, very silent, polynesian bloke take a yappy repeat snaker to task on a left hand reef 2.5k's from my house. He ended up pulling the guy off his board and holding him underwater, and when he let him up for air, he asked "what are ya bro?" . Yapper had no answer, so he repeated the water torture, and repeated the question 15 seconds later . Yapper was coughing and sputtering the second time, and looking terrified, and mystified. Again, polynesian bloke asked him,. "so what are ya?". He had no answer, so the big dude answered for him. "You a dog f***er, bro. What are ya?" Yapper still looked confused, so down he goes again for another 10 seconds. When the big guy lets him up, he repeats the question. "What are ya bro?". And finally, Yapper replied, mumbling. "dog f***er". Big guy then holds his hand to his ear and says "what? didn't hear ya bro. What are ya?", and this time Yapper states it clearly, and almost everyone in the lineup hears it. "I'm a dog f***er". "That's right bro... you a dog f***er. Paddle in dog f***er. Go and f*** your dog. Don't f*** with me.". And Yappy Dog F**er was never seen again. Neither was the big dude, and given how bad crowds have become in recent years, that's a bit of a shame. We could use him.
the stories about berra de la cruz made me laugh out loud, especially the one about the locals taking the crumby inside waves just to make a point of it haha
Come to Sa south Africa south coast ,probably best waves in da world in kzn south coast stay at blue sky mining for time of your life over 150 km of points pull in ,good people empty lineups ,a few busy but surf free ...kandui bruuu
I lived on the North shore of Oahu for 10 years, all thoughout the 90's. Elsa had another residence on the North shore of hawaii, and it was much different in Kauai. However, I always smiled I always picked up trash everywhere I went, I always kept my mouth shut and waited my turn, when my turn came I just charged everything I could. My first job was a bartender on the inner Island Cruise ship, so we were on a different Island every day and I got to serve all around all the major Hawaiian Islands. Never once did I ever have an issue with anyone and it was the best 10 years of my surfing life
For someone as ancient as myself RUclips is a revolution because what one can experience in reality is available, and that is so so so useful. So I gave you a like and a subscribe for the huge service of letting us know what to expect as we explore the world. Thank you! 🏄♀😸Don't know why I put a smile cat there? But, who doesn't like a friendly smile from a cat?
Let me know your craziest localism stories!! I'm super overwhelmed with the response to this video; thank you so much for all your comments and stories; I've loved reading them! Please understand if I can't get back to all of you).
Not on here Dan ❤
Tamarin Bay is by far the worst I have experienced/witnessed: ruclips.net/video/NyNv69tyXJ4/видео.html
I saw this guy I didn’t know so I paddled up his inside
1996 in the wave pool at Rhyl sun centre (north wales) i got dunked mercilessly by two obese spotty ginger girls
Not very exciting but a friend of mine being punched in the face by a Sayulita Local (Mexico), after the guy burned him and they crashed because my friend kept riding the wave... We then moved to another spot with less people and the locals were way friendlier...
I’ve been surfing for over 30 years all over the world. My experience is that roughly half of surfers are really cool and the other half are complete assholes.
Yeah fair shout!! I'd say it's probably a small percentage really...
That's funny I live by the 50/50 rule on everything.
It's like 50 percent of the breaks and 50 percent of the surfers. 50/50
It's a very strange culture of dicks and bros.
All trying to enjoy the ocean.
90/10 assholes
It just takes one 😎
I like to read the seasoned surfer. I've started 2 years ago. My hypothesis is that surfing surged in popularity, especially during COVID, hence making the surf spots super crowded. Older surfers feel invaded and entitled 😅 I kind of understand that.
In the few spots where I have been the feeling is from neutral to a bit hostile.
No way I dare into a crowded place. Aggression is the likely outcome. At the time where surf etiquette is most needed, it's hardly existent.
I’ve been living in Japan and the locals are SO nice. Inside of the water and out. It makes it an enjoyable experience when everyone humbles their ego…
Japan Surf is amazing together with snowboarding, people are really nice and kind, been there many times, love Japan for sure
No Asian country in his list....it says a lot
I have a technique I recommend. 1) grin at everyone like youre mental. 2) paddle up to every local and tell them how great they are. 3) thank everyone whenever you catch a wave. And tell them how grateful you are for their kindness. 4) start conversations with people even when they flatout ignore you and pretend youre not there, and tell them how much youre enjoying the people and the vibe....
After a while od this they start to either THINK youre insane and let you just keep going so you dont kill, putrify and eat them. Or they get seduced by your kindness and realize that being kind back actually feels good. Next thing you know the local charger is yelling at you, "Go! Go! Go!" (So you do) "Yesssssssss Maaaaaaaaannnnn!"
Trust me. It works.
Don't be british. Problem solved.
I had a local in Morocco get pissed at me for just being in the water near where he was lining up but I slapped a big grin on my face and said "just enjooooy", gave him some space and later on that day we were splitting the peak. Kill them with kindness!
❤ Thank you for articulating my vibe!
Dude…that’s exactly what I do! Works everywhere, no shit!
🫶Mahalo bro
I used to live in Morocco in the 90's and the localism was horrendous, the irony was though it was the French surfers who were the worst ,not the Moroccans. I had a good friend who was born in Casablanca and we travelled and surfed together a lot, one day we went to Saffi ( essffi) which is now a surf camp and well known back in the early 90's it was French only and virtually unknown, we surfed it empty. My fried a local had his tires slashed for taking me their. I actually speak French and Arabic ( more Arabic than many of the local French guys) and I still got grief from the French even after 5 years. The lunacy of localism enforced by non native surfers never ceased to amaze me.
As a Moroccan now living and surfing in the US I agree. My dad surfed in the 70’s in Morocco and use to tell me stories about the French…well those days are gone. The surf culture have very much changed. I think some spots still show some local aggression but not as much as back in the 90’s
In Brittany the vibe is much more chilled. Not sure who are those french pendejos in Morocco ...I surfed in Imsouane and it was fine..
It's the same in Cornwall, the worst offenders are surfers not from there
French surfers should be banned
Went to Morocco too and the locals were rad. Took me in for tea. Took me to some secret spots. The white french dudes surfing in groups, however.....
As a longtime Hawaii surfer, I learned to ALWAYS watch the waves carefully for awhile before paddling out to observe rips, set intervals and such. It's the same with the crowd; observe, take the temperature and don't rush in. Feel the mood of the lineup and earn your turn.
Reunion has had its fair share of problems from the real locals 🦈
Good for the sharks then.
I live in Santa Cruz CA where every local at every break just waxes your board for you and lets you paddle right out to the bowl every time with no hassle! Ha ha...
years ago I was surfing pleasure point and this tiny little grom told me I was catching too many waves 😂😂
Ah yes, wonderful Santa Cruz. I'm up at Ocean Beach but the free wax job has me heading down often. I remember a small summer Sunday at pleasure, saw a sullen bearded local walking down a, let's say, advanced beginner on the inside and eventually they had words and began to square up. Nothing out of the ordinary so far, but then this 10-11 year old kid comes in and starts yelling at the local, "Stop daddy, stop it!". Blech, that one was rough.
yeah right lol.
Surprised to hear that. Not my impression of SC. Espically at Steamer Lane. Love the area though.
You joke about it but when I started surfing in 1967 that’s how surfers were. Shame on all these bad attitude knob hea%s. So sick people.
when i first went to sw france i paddled out at a kind of unknown hidden spot, tiny waves, some teenager pointed for me to go back to hossegor, i said i'd just driven 2000 miles and laughed. but i did get out and it did freak me out a bit.
Then a few days later i was across the border in the spanish basque and was really wary cos of being told to get out in france. Then twice what happened once at very friendly sized roca puta, was the locals could see i was holding back and waved me over to the spot so i could catch some waves. Couldn't believe it, it warmed my heart
Epic!! So good to hear of stuff like that happening!
One of the most welcoming vibes I ever got was at a fickle, semi-secret spot on the North Shore of Maui in the 90s. Clean bowling lefts, 4-6' Hawaiian, maybe 10-12 people out, even as a haole with minimal suntan and no friends there people were smiling, telling me "go, brah!" when a set came in. It was great.
Lived in Hawaii (Oahu) for 9 years. Never had a problem. I did see some 'almost' fights though. Every time it was in 2-3 foot surf where a surfer from the mainland who just got off the plane would paddle straight out to the peak, catch a wave (calling everyone else off), turn around and paddle out straight to the peak again and catch the next wave (again screaming "I GOT IT!"). A big Hawaiian would paddle up to him after a few waves and say "Hey bra, shoots, give some wave for da other." The mainland surfer would ignore him and paddle right back out to the peak. It wouldn't be pretty. Then he would go home and tell everyone how 'localism' is out of control in Hawaii.
Thank You
There is truth to this. Guilty as charged - I remember many years ago right after landing in Lihue {my first trip to the islands} I jumped in the warm water at a North Shore beachbreak, just absolutely frothing full-tilt. My friend who was a local there, was telling me to settle down. I couldn't stop catching all those amazing beachbreak waves. My friend then turned to point at another local, who was likely an uncle, just shaking his head and yelling to himself in frustration. I was a piggy that day no doubt, lessons learned.
Exactly Gary!!!!
@@ChristopherDillman Wait what did you do wrong here? I'm guessing the line up was not crowded at all on some random beach break, and would anyone else have even caught a single one of those waves? IDK man.. people trippin over someone out there having a blast L:
This is accurate for Hawaii. People want to be nice to you but too many kooky as mainland vibe show up hungry because their waves suck at home.
Morocco is awesome if you are with a surf guide or group - the locals respect you as you surf with guys they’ve known their whole lives. They don’t like guys travelling in vans and cars who don’t pay for accomodation because they aren’t giving much to the community. That’s what I found speaking to some locals, but I got some all time waves down there, love that place
The southern Mexico scene is interesting--they kept a lid on things for many years but then Rip Curl came with the Search contest (2011?) and suddenly it was on the map. The locals banded together and created a system where you needed a local guide to surf some of the breaks there. You could get a "waiver" and go without a guide by, for example, donating an old laptop to a local school, or fulfill an equivalent community need. The guides would coordinate and arrange it so that none of the breaks were overrun and the visiting surfers were spread out well. They would also regulate the lineups in what appeared to be a fair and reasonable manner. You had to be behaving quite poorly to be asked to leave, but it would happen. I've done a bunch of traveling and would normally be opposed to having a guide, however many of the breaks are remote and would be very hard to find without prior knowledge, and it was very well run--the vibe in the lineup was always chill, the usual tension between individual surfers was largely absent, because everyone knew where they stood and the guides all knew each other. Not sure if it's still working, but I was impressed. I got tons of waves that trip too.
Hey mate!! Thanks for the story and I know all the points down in Salina Cruz are still "privatised" and you need a guide to surf them, but Barra is open to anyone these days. Although the locals definitely still get their waves!
2006, hands down the best contest to ever taken place
Thx for explaining, especially since I'm planning a trip there next year at a surf resort with a guide. Makes sense. I've heard there are many points as good as Barra on the way south towards Salina Cruz. Do you find this to be true?
Nothing like saying your waves need to be protected, and then whoring them out for a bit of money. The guide thing down there really seems like one of the more disgusting examples of prostituting out the sport.
Was Lucky enough to surf this area before the contest with nobody out. Went back two years ago, spots are over crowded, too many "surf guide" with 10 surfers each on each spots. No worth the money, to share the wave with 50 other guys!
Luanda Bay, CA was very localized when I would surf there in the early 80’s…Locals would rain down rocks from the 100’ bluff on surfers walking to the break and then vandalize their cars…classy group
The truth rich kids suck I know l grew up in west Torrance go West High Worriers class of 1973.😃
@@markstrickland6760 I was a warrior. Class of 98.
The Bay Boys make for good narrative because hating the 1% is easy, but the truth is Pedro (TC's, Palms, etc) has always been and still is more localized than PV. In the 80s, the real scary ones that you just absolutely did not paddle out at unless you were invited were the Redondo Breakwall with the Carson Carvers and The Strand in Oxnard. Both of those like PV, had people start getting in trouble with the law. It just didn't get the same level of coverage because it didn't generate the same level of outrage.
The Bay Boys got their ass busted about a year ago. Police came down on them suckers. I still wouldn’t surf there though if it’s good
Been there, Done that🙄
I started surfing in the 80’ and began the surf travel thing in the 90’ to most of the spots you talk about in your videos. The world was a completely different place and surfing for the most part was still considered a fringe sport in most places. Never had any problems with localism even in Hawaii. The way we were raised in surfing and watched over by the older local crew at home was that of respect your elders and to play by the unwritten rules. It’s not that hard. Fast forward to today and I won’t go surfing if there’s too many people. And I’m still as fit as a fiddle. Most of the name breaks are overrun and a lot of people paddle out with a sense of entitlement. A lot of the new surfers haven’t grown up with surfing and will never get it. They aren’t happy to wait in line. Some waves you will have to wait 3 hours for a wave and that’s just the way it is, even if you are local. People expect to paddle out and take what they please. Need to change the mindset to appreciation that you get to go surfing rather than expecting. Appreciate the video.
Spot on...surfing's been branded to the world with no connection to its history...everywhere I go I respect locals.but crowds are so bad now at many spots there's no self regulation...surfed with plenty of clueless surfers.they make surfing stressful and dangerous
Thanks for taking a risk to present this. You're discussing a really dark side of surf culture that few people like to really elaborate on, that hard-core travellers like yourself see almost daily. I grew up in Honolulu and surfed in the 70's and found the crowds gnarly back then. I decided to quit surfing in '81 (lasted 10 years) due to the shitty urban vibe that took over even on the lamest days, and headed for Central America, where it's a similar vibe and I learned I was a part of the tourist crowd problem.Too much demand, limited supply, and high expectations for glory in the water. The pro circuits and media exploit these expectations and serve as a raw marketing tool for tourism in these areas. Putting waves on a pedestal with a 1000mm lens shooting a half-mile-away wave and social media feeding this to billions creates distortions in people's minds about what these locations are really like.
I grew up surfing Makaha in the early/mid 1960s - big mixed bag for sure. Back then Buffalo's children (Rusty & Brian) were in diapers with Buffalo being the king surfer of Makaha with no need to prove anything so, the locals were mostly cool though fights did break out now and again mostly with surfers from "town (Honolulu!)" - Lmao.
Then later in the early 1980s I got into windsurfing in Hawai'i and it was a much more pleasant experience.
My 2 cents. I went to arica and iquIque and took photos of the locals, gave them the footage and they invited me to parties and showed me 2 secret spots. Surfed Portugal Supertubos perfect 5 - 6 foot super crowded and no trouble at all. Same with Puerto Escondido, when it gets over 6 foot you pretty much can take any wave you want. I would only agree with Hawaii, that is a horrible experience surfing there.
People go to the most crowded places on earth cause instagram told them so, and complain they cannot just do what they want 😅
Just be respectful
yup you did it the right way rangatrips. you HAVE to immerse yourself into the culture. I went to school near Supertubos and spending time with everyone on the beach and in the water was key. I went outta my way to get to know all the surfers....now I can cruise in any time any day and they all still know me...generations too since we used to spend summers there down from Norway...5 months of non stop surfing
@@barne3668 it's such an awesome town! Apparently before it was a surf town it was just hardcore fisherman living there. Must be wierd for those original locals to see how the town has transformed.
So true!!! Excellant advice!
I drove out to CA from NJ to SB 1980 and I began surfing Rincon. This 15 year old punk hot shot kid who thought he was the crowned king world surf champion dropped in on me and then dropped in on me again. I was taking off from indicator and making it through river mouth section but he dropped in on me twice. After the second time I had to explain things to him what was going to happen next if he drops in on me again. He said he didn't think I could make the section that is why he took off and he apologized......he didn't ever do it again on any day any swell as I saw him many times and said hello and talked to him often. The kid was Tommy Curren.
In SB at that time the Haskells crew were quite territorial and violent. I went there one day for the first time after work and as I was walking down the trail two haskell locals were coming up the path leaving. I am NYC, NJ street smart and know how to handle myself and basically an ass kicking killer at that time. I could see they were looking for trouble, sizing me up by the expressions on their faces and were going to try and jump me or something of the sort. That would have been the worst mistake of their lives. Using my quick thinking NJ/NYC street smarts I immediately turned it all around by asking them if (certain person who I worked with and surfed Rincon with, #1 badass of their own haskells crew) was out surfing. That immediately stopped them in their tracks as they knew if they messed with me they would catch hell from him for messing with one of his friends.
So basically....my point is....always try and make friends with locals.....always think....always be cool.....try and diffuse any situation....talk.....be nice.....be polite....never be a dick in the lineup....never drop in on anyone....wait your turn....share waves...and if you have to kick ass....then kick ass with extreme violence and prejudice to teach bullies a life lesson.
A good 10 years ago I went to check out the south tip of Fuerteventura with my girlfriend. There's a a pretty sick spot down there that doesn't break very often, and I know it's localised, but when we showed up it was just a knee high peeler, though very pretty and glassy, and there wasn't a soul in sight. So we decided to go for a romantic little couple-longboard session, great times. Suddenly a local guy showed up, paddled out on his shortboard and started to drop in on as many waves as he could, which he could barely surf because it was knee high. But just for the sake that noone could surf there and to stay true to his spot. It was super awkward, we just tried to ignore him. At some point I kind started joking with him, but he ignored me. I guess he did feel kind of stupid in the end, because it was just superweird. He did succeed in ruining a nice moment with my girl, and we never came back, so he wins I guess.
There’s some some sad petty people around isn’t there. Poor guy what an existence, probably never been further than the end of his road.
that was me. i was the guy
Seaside Oregon had a perfect world class left with the worst localism. Violence is common there...
, Oregon has a lot of tiny mind syndrome I hear , , ,
Ain't nothing perfect about that left - but it CAN get really good...
Yeah boyyy, the point! I got me lots of Indian beach too when I waz in high-school
Vibes are so good in Oregon water. Never been to seaside tho
naw....EVERYBODY needs to visit Seaside Oregon! lovely waves, shy locals, you'll have a blast. bring your friends!
Compared to snowboarders and skaters, surfers are really selfish and territorial. I can say that because I've done all three sports throughout life. Its learned behavior and really unnecessary. There could be plenty of waves for everyone but people like to hog the peak and try to pretend they're pros LOL! Excellent video, by the way. Love the drone shots and variety.
It’s actually a really lame collective culture I find for a sport that is so
Amazing and so naturally in touch with nature.
I don't skate or snowboard, but that's an interesting comparison!! Definitely unnecessary! Thanks, stoked you enjoyed the video :)
I surfed and snowboarded a lot more than skated in my life, but I can definitely say that skaters are the chillest of the three groups. Surfers ruin surfing.
You can't really compare surfing to those other sports. Surf by its nature is a finite resource and so there's etiquette needed to share the resource that is largely adhered to. I think locals do deserve a certain amount of priority in their home spots, especially in countries which have already been colonised once and now have to deal with tourists coming and thinking they own the place. In my experience, if you're respectful, surfers are a cool bunch (notwithstanding a few complete fuckheads).
@@monkeymansean2 Snowboarding is the same. Limited terrain, finicky conditions, and more people than space. In some ways it's more competitive because people are paying up to $300 just to get up the mountain. But surfers are definitely more aggro and less tolerant.
I was in Morocco for 2 weeks last month and had no problems. We had a car and were off the beaten track, but we gave the local groms lifts from the beach to village every day, gave them some gear, locals were telling us the best tides for each spot etc. Sometimes they asked for some wax, occasional surf instructor a bit greedy in the water but other than that was cool. Also found when it was bigger but say a bit choppy, then pretty empty. Ideal for us from Scotland where seldom super clean anyway. But I think you need to be prepared to get away from organised groups or surfcamps if you wanna avoid the crowds there. The only aggression was driving in Agadir at rush hour, that's way scarier than anything in the water 😅
Australian here, if your cool we're cool, I travel and surf a lot, recently surfing in Victoria I'm waiting my turn and the locals are being really cool asking me where I'm from it's really good, an hour into my surf this guy starts paddling in front of my on every wave I paddle for, so I ask one of the locals I'd been talking to if he was one of them, they said they'd never seen him before, the whole vide of the session changed which was a real bummer, short story is the local's started hassling him for every wave he paddled for and I bet he tells stories about how bad localism is there. With regards to being on your phone at not popular surf in Australia, don't, we get dickheads rocking up to our local and texting their mates or taking photos and posting on social media and in most place you'll get called out for it. In Australia if you show respect, you'll get respect, there are a couple of exception's of course
Agree 100% but not every spot is like that. I was in south Portugal in November and going to empty spots ( not famous, not crowded). Once I entered and I was surfing knee-waist wave very weak. A surf school just left the water before me. The teacher came with the foamy and keeping blocking my take off… what a looser. And then basically all around Algarve is like that. Impressively famous spots are super chill if just using common basic respect …. In winter even more.
Edit: quite what he talked about
Local at Lorne on a 12 foot Mal - 6inches thick taking every wave. EVERY WAVE. Couldn't believe it. Whats worse is he was 70 years old. Catch a wave into the beach, then paddle back out before anyone could even turn around for the next wave.
I was glaring at him as went out - he just smiled from behind his HUGE David Boone moustache and folded his arms on the top of his board as he flew by.
It was then I realized he had a secret electric motor in his board and was cheating.
Everyone started laughing - he kept cheating, but it was ok because he was funny, local and 70.
Australians are generally very chill.
I've surfed every spot he mentions here and never had a problem. Actually every time I paddle out anywhere, everyone goes straight to the beach and either starts filming me or they borrow some paper and start taking notes. It's awesome to be me.
If you need an example of localism in Australia there's literally a break in south Sydney named "Ours"
Only the Brah boys call it ours mate. I think to everyone else its cape solander. The worst thing is they aren't event from that part of Sydney.
@@timblizzard4226 first its bra not brah theres not h in maroubra, next the bra boys put cape on the map from the cronulla body boarders
@@wildthing7783 first of all, lids were surfing that wave long before those guys were. Second of all, putting a wave “on the map” is the very definition of blowing out a spot, isn’t it? Third of all, I don’t give a fuck what they call themselves. From all appearances they are not much more than a group of parochial, uneducated, small minded tools who think they are entitled to literally possess waves in places they don’t even live, tools you evidently look up to. What does that make you?
Great video man. Would love to see the most friendly places in your opinion.
Any crappy beachie.
Thanks mate!! Yeah, good video idea, I'll get to work!
@@Dobertathon Hahaha!!
Fiji bruv. No other place people cheer new commers into the wave. The only time there's any 'thats my wave vibe' is from foreigners. Only time I've seen someone get told to exit was when they dropped in on a grom (foreigner as well) in a barrel. Massive local just went and told the dude, "baratha, you can't do that man its dangerous, please go wait in the boat don't scare the kids." - that's it. Ha ha ha ha.
New Zealand, especially in the more remote spots. Loved it. Also experienced really friendly vibes in the UK.
surfing La Santa 4 guys out (early 90's), head and a half. The other three guys were all locals and 2 of them were super hot surfers. The other one was an Intermediate. I was sitting a bit wide letting the 2 hotties get their fill and snagging a few of their leftovers whilst chatting to the other friendly guy. Then a set came through the hotties had been on the earlier set so i was in plum position. As I paddled one of the surfers paddling out paddled straight in front of me and turned for the wave, by this time it was too late to pull out so I basically went over the falls on top of him. As you can guess lots of heated Spanish expletives, and pointing to the beach. As there was only him causing problems I stood my ground and carried on surfing !!!!! but then about 1/2 dozen of his mates got in so I got out, just to be safe
Tamarind bay - Mauritius! White shorts..
Good shout! How’s the video of that local there 😂
came looking for this place - #1 for localism
@@DanHarmon123 Mate, I surfed Tamarin in 1999. Scored it going off its tits. Turns out I miraculously befriended the White Shorts alphas. I had one name of a guy there who happened to be the top pro in Mauritius at the time. I met him and after that, I was in the mafia. I'm still friends with some of the locals there to this day. In fact, and I swear this is true, swear on my mother's life, I was out surfing one day with a local guy named Jean-Pierre (JP) and I was in position for a bomb. I called JP into the wave even though I could have had an epic ride. He paddled back with a huge smile and I asked him how it was. He was frothing. Then I told him I thought he was in a better spot, so I gave it to him. After that, we got talking and just had a great session trading off waves. Later on, when I went in, I was talking to the other locals and saying I surfed with JP. And they were like, "what? and he didn't break out your fins?" Haha! Bizarre, but somehow I had the trip of a lifetime in Mauritius!!
Yes great shout. They deserve a visit from some ghetto guys,
@@benclarke8861 I went to Mauritius in the early 90s me and a mate paddle out those white shorts or black shorts whatever the they are told us to f--k off i I have box for 30 years and my mate was a pro kickboxer we told them we were gonna bash the lot of them they shit themselves never said one word to us for a month I seen Aussies and Americans Surfer sitting on the beach too scared to go out till they come in And they were a bunch of kooks French guys they weren’t Mauritian
I ve got a good one for you... The left hander at Atalaia, in Santa Catarina, Brazil is heavily localized... I lived in the area for a little over 10 years and never managed to surf... It s a well known localized spot, so usually no ones try to surf it, but if by chance you wanna have a go and park your car on the parking lot, by the time you get back your tires will be sliced... I once saw a former brazilian CT surfer go for a surf and by the time he came back his car was upside down... The wave breaks next to a pier, so some locals will stand in there throwing rocks and shouting to the crowd. Very bad vibe honestly. The wave itself is wicked and on a good day will run for 150-300m. Shame I never had a chance to surf it.
Hey mate!! Wow, I've never heard of that one, sounds crazy, though, turning a car upside down!! Thanks for the story :))
So true, used to live my whole life close to Atalaia, you can only manage to surf there if you be come friends with a local and they invite you over for a surf. Had a mate that took him 2 years to get the “invitation”. Bloody ridiculous
Ridiculous. Brazilians are getting more and more selfish
You have a nice chill demeaner Dan, I live in Portugal and haven't experienced too much localism but I've mainly been surfing around Lisbon / Erriceira .
Thanks mate, yeah I think it's only at certain spots really!!
@@DanHarmon123 Yeap!! We're sic of tourists.. it's what happens when it becomes massive and there's no respect what so ever!!
@@Legoboygago us in Australia are sick of tourists aswell, i don’t think Brazilians know the word “surf ettiqutte” and as Dan would say”no offense to Brazil, I’m sure there’s plenty of wonderful people” 😂 my step mum is Brazilian and I bet if she surfed she’d be the same 😂 nah but fr Aussies are some of the worst locals , I should know I’ve seen my family punch people in the face in the water all the time , not unusual for Gold Coast. But yeah , Portugal doesn’t get the kinda tourist crowds we get at the super bank so be happy with whatever you’ve got I’ve basically given up at my home break of snapper. No one knows how dangerous what they are doing is, I personally have been burned a billion times and even gotten into a fight as the person who got burned 😂😂😂 surfers are legit 50/50 psychos , or the coolest people you know
I cannot relate to your story about peniche, the locals are so nice. Perhaps you surfed with the wrong crowed. Try to make some conversation in the line-up next time
@Legoboygago Thats Hard Luck 🍀 Sunny ☀️ Jim 😂
My Rocky point storey from 1988. It was head high perfect for a teenage Australian kid surfing Hawaii for the first time with only my Dad, brother and me out. I caught five or six perfect Rocky rights, then six other foreign surfers padded out and straight away started dropping in on my dad and brother and then one dropped in on my next wave and i wiped out hard. Next minute once i got back on my board to start paddling back out a heap of probably around ten Hawaiians were paddling straight out towards me, shouting and yelling, paddling like mad men. The first couple made sure i was alright, and kept going out, one guy stopped and asked about me and told me don't worry we have been watching you when you first paddled out, you caught some nice one foot waves. I was like no way these waves are six foot clean and overhead, i remember his laugh as he was splashing me with water and what he said was " you should have been here last week, it was pumping, it's only tiny today that's why you had it to yourselves, we'll take care of these kooks". By the time i got back out to where my dad and brother were in the line up talking with two other locals and the other ten or so circled the group of surfers that came and interrupted our waves and they were paddled way out into the bay. It was very cool as a fifteen year old Aussie kid surfing Hawaii with my family, and treated like this was an amazing experience for methat have been in my memory for a very long time. 💚🌊🤙
Good On Ya Hopkins ✊👊🤙
I surfed Mundacca in 1980 and the Spanish were horrible after 9:30 ish in the morning.They had shit wetsuits so would wait until it warmed up, then they would scream at any traveler getting a good wave.I went to a secret spot and never got out of the car as it rained for 2 straight days.About 10 years later in Mainland Mexico I mentioned this spot to a Spaniard,He put 2 and 2 together and figured out who had told me about the spot that I never even saw break.He was so pissed he was ready to fly home and kill some Aussies !Crazy!!
Grew up in Santa Cruz. I started surfing in the early 00’s and it was still pretty heated. 90’s were all out fist fight. I think 80’s even more so. Now you’ll get an earful if you fuck up but no one wants to go to jail. Had a few scary run ins as a grom and learned some important lessons on respect and knowing one’s place in the lineup, which helped me when I’ve traveled to other localized spots.
Dude its funny because Ive spent 7 months in Australia (mostly snappers, dbah), 2 months in portugal (lisbon, ericeira), a couple of weeks in Canary Islands (north shore Fuerteventura, lobos, el hierro) and surfed Anchor Point in Morocco as well. I have almost no stories of agressive localism.
Because you A. Rip B. Always have the good bud or C. You are a Kook😂
Get a fucking job
😂
A nearby wave where I was living in Japan had a sign spray painted "Rocals Only". I always got a kick out of that. But I did have a ridiculous run-in with "rocals" at a different secret spot.
This is why I prefer a nice hike in the mountains away from people vs surfing.
Great video Dan! Ive surfed the gold coast a few occasions and its a little weird out there. Ive had days like you mentioned with heaps of people out and fights happening, people dropping in and absolute chaos.(snapper rocks, dbah, etc) But then on the other end when we would surf in Byron Bay. the locals would literally be yelling at us wanting us to drop in on them and share the wave. every wave was a party wave there. XD. definitely all sorts of vibes at the different spots there.
Thanks Jake! Yeah wow!! What a contrast in attitudes haha!!
The Gold Coast isn’t always crowded even at the best breaks, and the vibe is usually good at these times
gold coast (snapper mainly) is a bit of a joke about how hard it is to get a wave, and when you do you probably get dropped in on but most other parts of australia is fine if you're surfing to the rules and having respect in the lineup. I'm from Byron area and i surf all up and down the coast, as well as localised lineups like Angourie and Iluka, if you're surfing with respect you shouldn't have an issue no matter where you're from...
@@jaib695The Pass , Brocken Head and Lennox aren’t exactly uncrowded, probably why you surf up and down the coast.
I think in general when you are a local (how ever you define that) in a reasonably well known place, you are used to seeing new people in the water. It's just normal. It's not like people will send you in at bells or snapper or the Sydney beaches just because they don't know you. Of course there are exceptions, but those are exceptions, not the rule. Generally speaking, in Australia people follow the rules.
I take out my false teeth..pop a fake blood balloon with the few remaining real teeth..start crying and laughing simultaneously all the while making grotesque grunting noises. . .i get all the waves I want..no problem.
Best comment 😂
I went to Australia for some waves and believe me, locals wasn’t my main fear if you got me !!! 🦈
With all due respects to the friendly aussies 🇦🇺
Your talking about the man in the grey suit 🦈 🥴😜
In the 70s when I was in my 20s I lived and surfed Tenerife (Canary islands) and I swear there was just myself and one local lad who surfed, and that was it. There were no other surfers, just local swimmers. It was paradise. Of course now every dickhead wants to surf.
Cnfital was extremely friendly in the seventies! not
Vicente from Long Island, NY pioneered the surf in Tenerife. You weren’t too long after him.
Back in mmmmmyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy dayyyyyyyyyy
Friendliest surf destination for me was Dakar Senegal 🇸🇳 The locals have a pure stoke for surfing and genuinely interested in learning from traveling surfers. It’s called the “smiling coast” and similar to Peniche its on a peninsula so somewhere is always offshore! Super clear water as well
Sick!! I've heard that actually, would love to go there!
personally I have seen the worst localism in the places where the surf is the most consistent (Canaries, Mexico, Marocco) and some of the nicest locals in places where the surf is not consistent but good when it's on (Mediterranean). However there is good and bad everywhere to some extent...
Yeah, that's such an interesting trend!! Never noticed that before... I wonder why!?
Well said, I agree
@@DanHarmon123 when the surf is not consistent and you get that one epic swell 3 times a year you're just the happiest person in the world and there is no room for localism or any hatred left in your brain.
I agree, I m from Barcelona and even though the waves suck and are scarce, people is very friendly. It shocks me that, in places that have plenty of waves everyday, they have such bad localism
That morocco story is WILD!! The dude rubbing the neck of the girl you were with. omg. Also surprises me that they would be so unfriendly in the water, I def. didn't realize that was the case. Thanks for the video. Great content!
That would’ve resulted in a pounding. Full-stop.
They have a very bad mentality towards outsiders because they are locked on where they live. They can't go around the world to travel for surf, so they hate you and try to keep you away from the one thing they got.
@@Ethan-bu2zyIf you walk around with a pretty girl in Morocco, you'd be fighting all day.
Asia in general has the best vibes IMO Japan, Bali, Taiwan, Sri Lanka etc
bali is not country 😭 but i know what u mean..
The other place that wasn't mentioned is Mauritius,Think they call them the white shorts gang,has anyone you know had experiences over there?
My approach has always been scan the beach for locals. Walk up to them tell them I'm not from there and ask if they mind if I paddle out. 7 times out of 10 I'll hear something akin to, "appreciate the respect bra" and oftentimes someone might even paddle out with me and either introduce me or make sure the locals know I was okay. And even if they don't want me paddling out I've avoided the hassle or beat down. Then just sit in the line up, get the vibe...I've even asked if it was okay for me to grab a wave. After that you're a local too.
I see your point but i will not kiss ass to anyone ! But i’ll paddle out and always be respectful 💯 % But i’ll never leave an ocean 🌊 that nobody owns or rules but i’ll always give respect ✊ as long as it’s returned !
Anyone who thinks they have ownership rights to surf locations neither understands or has any love for the ocean.
This argument can go both ways. Anyone who thinks they can go anywhere in the world and feel entitled to waves where they re not from do not display brotherhood or respect for their ocean brothers and sisters
Shocked Topanga wasn't mentioned went their once when it was pumping and 50 plus people for one right break... People yelling and cussing each other out. Luckily I recognized how the wave was changing with the tide (moving left) so I was able to catch a couple wide before everyone migrated over lol
I had never heard of that place until today, but I just did some reading... It sounds so hectic out there! Is the wave even that good haha!?
@@DanHarmon123Topanga is now surfed mostly by SF Valley kooks
I’ve witnessed mental illness here…
@@DanHarmon123 It was a decent wave for the area espeically with the swell direction compared to other spots but still just a disgusting amount of people
It's:"went there"
Re Portugal. Most of the localism is in Peniche area, especially Molhe Leste or Supertubos. Your story is very typical there, sometimes bodyboarders would even grab you by the back if you start paddling for a wave. If you drive down south, it's way more chill towards foreigners. I lived in Peniche for a while and i've seen it all - bricks in windshields, pierced tires, cars on fire, fist fights, etc.
It´s funny you mention Australia. I agree that the popular spots suck, but my experience in the rest of Australia is really good. Most of the people understand what a line up is and it´s respected as far as you follow the rules.
I have surfed in Portugal, Indo, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Spain (including canary islands) and definitely Australia is the best by far!
Yeah for sure!! Totally agree with that!
Agree - generally if you don’t act like a dick you’ll be fine. Most Australians love a chat.
There are tools in every line up but generally speaking, Australians follow the rules. If you are in position, its your wave. At most spots burning people is frowned upon. But that doesn't mean people will be nice to you.
The Pass at Byron used to be fierce. The old painted sign of Locals only got changed to love only. The Wall at Ballina and also Boulders at Lennox can be quite territorial
Your book arrives in the mail today! Stoked for the read 🤙
Yewww!! That's epic, really hope you enjoy it mate :)
That’s why I like surfing at wave pools. Vibe is supportive and fun.
I heard they shout you with nerf
Wave pools are really fun. I want to go to the Surf Ranch someday
Pro Tip, don't bring your camera gear to Kauai.
Instagram, surfing mags and online websites/guides ruined most spots all across the world. Plus an influx of arrogant visiting surfers who want to "maximize" their vacation quotas, surf camps, etc. Lots even think that locals need to kow-tow to visitors 'cause they're bringing in business.
The old formula of threading lightly, showing humbleness and respect for ALL locals still works....and lifetime friendships can develop as a bonus.
As a portuguese, unfortunatly I can confirm that has horrible localism and lots of unforgiven vibes in the water, specially to foreign people. Definitely has one of the worst crowds
Surfed most of these spots, never had a problem.
Traveling to foreign surfing breaks requires COMMON SENSE & COURTESY.
Always remember that you're a guest. Treats locals with respect.
yeah but what are you going to do when these people are raging assholes. common sense and courtesy only go so far. anyway most of these places are third world dumps regardless, outside of their waves.
Well it sounds like wherever there are great waves the locals are protective! Anywhere where this is not the case?
Yeah for sure! Hmmm, I'd say Bali and Sri Lanka, maybe Ireland have the mellowest locals I've come across, that said, they still get their waves on the good days...
Yes, Not telling 😂🏄
Anyone hostile is just so so weak and arrogant. Yes protect your local breaks, but you do not own it. It’s just a reflection of your weakness
It's people's homes
Great topic. I'm a retired Aussie surfer in my 60s that used to do most of my higher performance surfing at good breaks all over the south and west of Oz in the late 80s and early 90s. My 'local' was 13th Beach. I've experienced good vibes and aggro in pretty much equal measure virtually everywhere I've surfed. There usually seemed to be a correlation between wave quality, conditions ( slabiness, quality, size, crowd etc), tight intense take off zones, semi mysto waves that were harder to get to (think boat trips in Vicco), and increased aggro in my experience. And every break had it's locals that were just pricks, that would drop in on pretty much anybody, regardless of whether they were a visitor or a local. When the then Vicco surf industry boys descended on any break they usually tried, and often succeeded, in taking over and being arrogant pricks. I have no problem with pecking orders in surfing based on respect for locals and ability. I hate pecking orders based on intimidation, arrogance, ego and violence. One of my surfing buddies got punched out after being dropped in on and totally snaked by a local at a well known barrell near Bells. I've never been hit, but I've been harrassed, threatened and made to feel completely unwelcome so many times at so many different places it's ridiculous. Outback SA used to be a bit intense for that, but local slabs in Vicco were just as bad.... I'm sort of glad that as I aged, the wheel turned and I reverted to surfing less intense breaks, due to declining fitness and ability. It was so much more relaxing. I was always in it for the feelgoods anyway. Gees, I miss riding waves, but i dont miss the occasional men in grey suits. But that's another story.
Based on what you said, I think bodyboarders are normally more aggressive. My theory is that they are angry an frustrated because they cant stand up on their boards 😂
I’d say boogers are pissed at stand ups cuz they think they’re superior because they stand up. We have to fight back.
Core bodyboards get sick of kooks’ prejudice; especially when they ride barrels deeper, chuck phatter airs, and have better wave knowledge.
It’s worst in the US because of the macho man bullshit. Hawaii, PR, and Chile surfers do not condescend to bodyboarders nearly as much.
Judge a man in the way he rides, not his wave riding vehicle.
@@markabolton I judge a man in the way he understands jokes on youtube comments, not in his capacity on taking surfing too serious.
I've surfed Portugal, Fuerte and Morocco loads over the years, I've never had a problem but I've seen some. When I've seen trouble it's usually travelling surfers dropping in and snaking....then the tension mounts.
Definitely agree about the vibe out of the water in Morocco
7:34 😅 I had the same experience two years ago when I lived in Ventura, California. There's a spot that was notorious back in the 80-90' for being heavily localized and aggressive punk rock subculture. It's not as bad anymore, but some of the old guys will still threaten anyone that starts recording with their phones when the waves are firing, and tell the guys with foam boards in the parking lot to F!off kooks! 😅
Would you be speaking of Arcturus or Oxnard Shores?
@@willyjones3720 Indeed, The Nard or more precisely 'The Strand' 😅
Pierpont. I grew up there 70s/80s.
As a grom in the 90s I surfed Spanish Left in Tenerife (Canary Islands). I was respectful and took what was left from the locals. I was surfing better than many of them and was wearing Scottish football shorts which gave me away of course. I was surrounded by three locals and told in no uncertain terms to leave and walk to the “foreigner’s” wave down the beach. That wave was actually bigger and played to my forehand so it worked out for me 😂
I’m from the Gold Coast, and in a strange way, the crowd almost regulates the localism… there are just so many people in the water, it’s hard for 1 person to be a total dick and get away with it… that’s unless you’re a world champ… they smoke everyone
That’s because the non locals outnumber the locals when it’s good,the locals can’t say much
I have noticed Occy seems to make new friends with every wave....
Steamer Lane in NorCal. When it's on, locals only!
The worst place I've ever been was in Tenerife, I waited 20 minutes next to a surfers car that got ready to leave parking spot in front of a famous peak. After 20 minutes they started to leave and a local guy came and stole my parking space claiming that he is a local and he should get it before me and told me to respect the locals😳
.
Spanish Lefts ? I’m guessing ! If so it’s got a terrible problem with localism ……i surfed it back in the 80’s and 90’s but just too crowded. I surfed Fuerteventura a lot in the 80’s because i had a mate who was an instructor out there for many years . We used to go to the bubble 🫧 quite a lot and sometimes over to Lobos but there was a local dude called Paco who was a bag of trouble 🥴
Keep seeing shots of The Pass at Byron Bay in your video, awesome wave to surf, super overcrowded and agro crowd. So many scuffles and shouting in the water lol.. Also I've copped it at the beaches in Wollongong, I was catching waves, it was small and two foot nothing special, another dude was wearing a helmet and came and was trying really hard to snipe my waves lol
Damn good thing I’m fluent in Spanish. Has defused loads of situations over the years.
Even being shit at spanish works too haha
I was about to comment on speaking some of the language helps heaps .
@@johnnyheidi2839 Yep, definitely make you less of a target.
My experience from Morocco ist very different. Ive had locals calling me into waves there. And obviously peope what to sell you a lot of stuff all the time but they are just generally super friendly.
Epic, that's amazing to hear mate! I definitely need to go back there, as I guess it's unfair to categorise the place based just on a couple of bad experiences!!
Same
so everywhere then! nice
Hahah, in a lot of places yeah ;)
Hollister Ranch, CA was bad in the early 80’s too. Went with a friend who owned property and pulled up at a spot with no one out and spitting. The off duty gateman paddles out (he owns no property but is entitled because he works the gate), starts screaming “no no no!” Every time I catch a wave and acting like an idiot. Only 3 guys out! A gate man there once buried a non locals car with a bulldozer while he was surfing!!!
For a time, a friend and I would walk into a decent spot before you get to Razors and surf alone. Wet sand walk etc., the guards would stalk us inevitably just to give two competent kids a dressy down. I think that last bit you referred to, the buried car, may have been Volkswagen, happened at Cojo.
I was fortunate to surf the Ranch back in the 70's and 80's. I never had an issue. They would vandalize the hoist on the pier all the time though. Caught Drakes and Little Drakes twice in 2 weeks. It went from 1 foot mush to 6 to 8 foot nonstop waves in about 1 hour. Amazing.
When it’s good at say Super Bank or Noosa , the non locals would have to outnumber the locals by many. So surf rage is not necessarily localism but more greed and frustration.You can’t always tell whose a local anyway ,usually a good vibe when I surf there down the line a bit
Yeah good point actually!! I never see much localism there as such, just as you said, greed and a ton of aggression, haha!
Yeah there’s definitely competition for waves, I don’t bother with Snapper or Boiling Pot , too much stress and energy required,down the line a bit can still be crowded when it’s firing , but less aggression usually.However if you dropped in on one of the stars or locals you might see localism.
@@exxotixjeff2822 Localism is, in my experience, really a small town thing in Australia. There's just too many people in the big cities for a small crew to really act like they own a break.
Thanks for this useful video ! What about New Zealand ? Are there many locals and are they friendly?
Thanks !
The world class left point break in Seaside, Oregon.
probably get your camera stomped there , if certain locals are out. lol
Totally right about the localism here in Australia. All the famous circus-like points up north are just drop ins every wave and there are still a lot of lesser known spots (mostly along the southern coastline) where there's a decent chance that if they don't know you by name, you're getting your tires slashed or your head punched in. That said, in most places I'd say there's a 'healthy' level of localism where there's a pecking order and you'll be actively discouraged from being a gronk, but if you are respectful and wait your turn, you will get waves and not be hassled.
I grew up with it and its necessary. Gold coast is a mess now without the law
Sorry but that's total BS. There's no such thing as localism in Australia. It's impossible to tell who a local is because everyone travels and surfs everywhere.
@@shannonwebb1333 What does that even mean? So you're telling me that at my local reefbreak where I see the same people every time it breaks, it's impossible to tell who is a local, even though I know all of them by name?
@aaaaaaasdee how close do you need to live to be a local? How often do you need to surf it? Who gets to decide? If I live 10m closer than you do I get to take all your waves? Of course not. The whole thing is silly. I bet just about everytime you surf there's someone new in the water. I won't believe it for a second if you suggest otherwise. I have lived and surfed in many tiny towns up and down the entire east cost. Sure I would recognize one or two but it doesn't mean they deserve special treatment. Furthermore, if anyone ever gives "non locals" a hard time they better be sure never to travel for surf.
@@aaaaaaasdee It depends how remote you are man. Maybe you live in angourie, or king island, or some other tiny town and you do know absolutely everyone. But that's rare. Where I live, sure there are 'local's, people I recognize, some of whom I know by name, but our premiere beach break is an hours drive from a city of 5 million people. Every time its on there are dozens of people I don't recognize. Do I know, for sure, that every one of them doesn't live in the area? Of course not. Some are from the city, some are legit tourists speaking French, or Spanish or whatever, but I'm sure others are people from the area who I just don't know.
if you've ever lived in a big city with surf, like Sydney and the gold coast, most of ten people you don't know in the water are locals. A good majority of them live in the area, but its just so busy there's no way you could ever know everyone.
So, how do you know the guy you don't recognize isn't a local, and thus deserving of your contempt???
I don't know if this is a good or bad thing, but you didn't even scratch the surface of the absurdity of localism in Mexico 😂 Anyway - great video, keep it up.
Just puerto! Come to cabo
Iv paddled out at a few spots in Portugal where iv been told in no uncertain circumstances to paddle right back in 😅
Haha no way!!
@@DanHarmon123 yeah man. Im South African, so iv been schooled in respecting locals when paddling out at a new spot, not catching set waves until invited to do so, , not sitting at the top of the main peak. etc etc But there are a few spots at which those guys in Portugal will have none of that 😅
Friendliest people in the world on land, super scary in the water 😂
@@BryanPortmann Where in Portugal? Were you at a very popular break or just a regular break?
@@brentlee8085 I was staying in Ericeira and tried to surf 2 of the lesser known breaks. My experience at the popular breaks was chilled. Except for the hoardes of people. I guess this is why the locals are protective of the lesser known breaks
@@BryanPortmann Interesting. Thanks for the info. I'm planning on traveling to Portugal soon, so this is great info. Thanks!
Hawaii was a nightmare for me. Went to Honolua Bay on Maui in 1997. It was EPIC! Only problem was, I literally got burnt on every single wave I caught. I'd literally be up and cranking down the line or in the barrel and guys would look over their shoulder right at me and blatantly drop in, nearly causing an accident every time. I might as well have been completely invisible. I've surfed across 6 continents and Hawaii and the Canary Islands were the only two places I experienced unprovoked localism. Didn't matter if I waited my turn, played by the rules. Nope, it was pretty much "get f*cked, don't want to know you" to everyone. Very sad.
caught it bad me too but also scored there so gotta pay to play!? guy smashed my board there :)
@@starmania909 I know all about paying to play, but that was ridiculous. I’m not happy when my local gets tons of blow-ins, but at some point everyone should be able to get a wave without getting blatantly burnt.
I surfed Portugal and France years ago.
No problems at all.Seemed very friendly and good fun waves.
Surf both in the last year... crowded but yes friendly... as long as you recognize your place in the lineup...
Follow up video idea I’d love to see: what are the friendliest lineups you’ve surfed in your travels?
Epic video idea, mate!! I'll get researching it!
@@DanHarmon123 If you make a video on the friendliest spots, you will participate in drawing crowds to them. Then those friendly locals will end up getting angry too / localism everywhere...
I grew up in a lil town where we had some great breaks few guys sitting around enjoying the waves... you gotta understand. Locals chilling where they grew up then tourists turn up paddle out n try n take over break... respect where you are its simple as that...
Cant blame locals for defending their breaks.
Defending?
I hope you expand your world someday.
I had a bad experience with the locals in cabo. There were definitely a few idiots that thought they owned the ocean
Hawaii and SoCal and Mexico…be kool and go with flow 🎉 now Morocco is just another type of freaking crazies 😮
A certain degree of localism is necessary to keep the order in the lineup otherwise every spot would be like Malibu.
Just went to feurtu and it was fine - lots of surf schools, surfing with locals? Didn't feel any localism?
Sick!! Yeah it's only at certain spots to be honest, at the well-known ones, you're usually ok!
So basically 75% of the premium locations in the world lol
Good luck finding an uncrowded world class wave these days.
@@Whosetheworst You can still get waves like that at Ocean Beach San Francisco but don’t go there if you aren’t experienced because you can really die there if not.
I used to live on the Gold coast in Australia and surfed at dbar a fair bit but wasn't a local. One day I went out and kinda burned a few bodyboarders about 3 waves in a row. The current was weird that day and I kept fucking up. They were, uncharacteristically, at the southern end. They were actually really patient. After three waves that were pretty good, I just moved into the middle and finished off my surf without hindering anyone.
I'm 70 and when I started traveling to surf there were no locals in the third world. Even Europe was uncrowded. Now, everywhere you go the locals surf. But all in all I prefer the modern world and it's amenities. The surf may be more crowded but it is certainly easier and cheaper to get around.
Hey Michael!! Yeah wow, would have been cool back in the day though! Your comment is super refreshing compared to the typical grumpy "surfing was better back in my day" comments hahaha!!
You forgot Seaside, Oregon. The most insane localism I’ve ever experienced
30 years ago I watched a very big, very silent, polynesian bloke take a yappy repeat snaker to task on a left hand reef 2.5k's from my house. He ended up pulling the guy off his board and holding him underwater, and when he let him up for air, he asked "what are ya bro?" . Yapper had no answer, so he repeated the water torture, and repeated the question 15 seconds later . Yapper was coughing and sputtering the second time, and looking terrified, and mystified. Again, polynesian bloke asked him,. "so what are ya?". He had no answer, so the big dude answered for him. "You a dog f***er, bro. What are ya?" Yapper still looked confused, so down he goes again for another 10 seconds. When the big guy lets him up, he repeats the question. "What are ya bro?". And finally, Yapper replied, mumbling. "dog f***er". Big guy then holds his hand to his ear and says "what? didn't hear ya bro. What are ya?", and this time Yapper states it clearly, and almost everyone in the lineup hears it. "I'm a dog f***er". "That's right bro... you a dog f***er. Paddle in dog f***er. Go and f*** your dog. Don't f*** with me.". And Yappy Dog F**er was never seen again. Neither was the big dude, and given how bad crowds have become in recent years, that's a bit of a shame. We could use him.
Man, that's insane!! What a mad story...
The big dude probably got locked up for other crimes. I lived in HI for years. Those guys are in and out of jail all the time. Good riddance.
Na Bro as a Portuguese I can say here it’s pretty chill . Actually you can see more fights because the parking spot then on the water 🫡🇵🇹
There's a secret wave near Raglan that the locals were shooting at some guys on jet skis (that stumbled apon the wave) from the beach.
Yeah I've heard about that place actually!!
@@DanHarmon123 that's locals only if you ask me! Haha
Most places around here are pretty chill if you show some respect though.
the stories about berra de la cruz made me laugh out loud, especially the one about the locals taking the crumby inside waves just to make a point of it haha
Hahah!!
Come to Sa south Africa south coast ,probably best waves in da world in kzn south coast stay at blue sky mining for time of your life over 150 km of points pull in ,good people empty lineups ,a few busy but surf free ...kandui bruuu
But the water is cold like Antartida and some sharks behave with localism... 😂
I lived on the North shore of Oahu for 10 years, all thoughout the 90's. Elsa had another residence on the North shore of hawaii, and it was much different in Kauai. However, I always smiled I always picked up trash everywhere I went, I always kept my mouth shut and waited my turn, when my turn came I just charged everything I could. My first job was a bartender on the inner Island Cruise ship, so we were on a different Island every day and I got to serve all around all the major Hawaiian Islands. Never once did I ever have an issue with anyone and it was the best 10 years of my surfing life
yo dan ... best to avoid surfing at rocky point anymore after the detailed dis of the locals 🤣
For someone as ancient as myself RUclips is a revolution because what one can experience in reality is available, and that is so so so useful. So I gave you a like and a subscribe for the huge service of letting us know what to expect as we explore the world. Thank you! 🏄♀😸Don't know why I put a smile cat there? But, who doesn't like a friendly smile from a cat?
You can put in the list " El Salvador" too. In my experience the most surfer in the line up they are unfriendly 🤬
Really?
@@HollywoodWestern Can be sure, if you don´t hire a local photographer📸 you lost all the priority🤬