As someone who started surfing in 1958 I still have problems with how popular surfing has become. We were a dedicated group who did little more than work at night so we could surf all day. It wasnt just a pass time. The people who made money built surfboards and wetsuits. Now it totally commercialized. It is what it is. Im stoked you are back in the water. Thanks for letting me vent a little. Aloha
Yea the world has definitely changed a lot, not just in the surf industry. Some things good, some things bad, but it is what it is. At least surfing still has a culture surrounding it and for the most part people are cool hehe. Glad to be back!
Totally agree. I am now in Thailand where the surf scene is very new and everyone very friendly and excited about it. It's like going back to the 1970s and so refreshing.
With any activity, sport or pursuit, it does not belong to any one person or group no matter how far back you started - the originators of surfing could probably say the same thing you are venting about- get over it and enjoy the activity and the perspective and pass on what you know because are lives are temporary.
Holding my takeoffs allowed me to be chosen as one of Trumps new advisors with a million dollar wage, I also grew 6 inches taller and almost all women can’t keep their hands off me. But it’s just the first day tho…
Great to see you back Brian. This was timely for me as i have started holding prone recently to get me into that power section. It works so well o faded takeoff as your board will come off a more critical section and flows straight into the steps forward. Good luck with your recovery.
Thanks Andrew! Oh yea totally, if done right, the board flows so much more smoothly. I'm so sick of my floppy faded take offs and now they're smoothing out!
Depends on the wave is whether I get up early or not. Sometimes you have no choice but to get up as fast as possible or your feet will be over your head
Nice to see you back you give hope for me i have been out of the water for 2 years now waiting for a hip replacement No sign of one, im British our health system is over worked .Time to sell the Grand kids and self fund they dont need inheritance Keep the vids coming your a breath of fresh air
Oh man that stinks!! Maybe self fund in a country that's not too expensive.. yet still does a good job haha! Although if you've been waiting for 2 years I imagine you gotta be one of the next. Funny enough, when I finally decided to schedule a date for my new hip, I got a surgery date of 3 weeks later. Not saying our health system is perfect by any means, but that's a plus for sure.
So awesome. Great to see you back at it after that hip! Sharing your experience helps me a lot as I am looking at hip replacement in the near future; offers me hope! I will be conscious of holding my take offs, even when on my shortboard. I've missed a few good ones already this year popping up too soon!
@@LongboardSessionsNot to be a total contrarian but I’m watching this and thinking how it won’t work in Florida. Faster, steeper waves than up in the northeast. I’m all about giving it a beat before the pop up, but I find that down here you gotta be quick on your feet.
I paused here at 2:19 seconds because I had this moment of Holy Christ and had to comment. I may come back and comment again after watching the entire video. I’ve been thinking all day about how I hold my popups because I don’t feel the power of the wave and once I do, then I pop up. I feel it, Here I am all this time thinking I am wrong because I see everyone else pop up super fast. OMG!!! I’m doing something right! By the way, it’s Maria M, an LS member with hip replacement 😊 I have that fin!! Hopeful to try it out in LB soon . Yikes!!! The thrill of seeing one’s name on your Chingpna As a Longboard Sessions member, I can vouch for the validity of this program. The three of them are so attentive and hyper involved. The members are super helpful, respectful and very chill. If you were thinking of joining, do it!! Awesome video. Great to see you out there surfing and talking!! Yew!!!
Well that's the best comment ever Maria!! So happy to have you on the site! Yes you instinctually are doing it right! I'm just naturally so impatient that it's a hard habit to get rid of lol. But I'm absolutley loving it so far
@ The site you three created is absolutely incredible. The learning videos In successive order are just so brilliant. I love it at Longboard Sessions. Great work guys!!! 💖 It’s probably because you surf NJ beach break. You’re thinking Gooooo!!!
As I was watching Ben C's vid a few days ago, I wondered what was up w/you, and here you are. Wow, a hip replacement... maybe that will slow down your process - but in a good way. The last time I surfed was in the days after Xmas and prior to that on day after Thanksgiving, but I was so focused on prep for cold water (my first time in official winter up here in MA) that I caught few waves and forgot many skills. Fortunately, a couple of experienced surfers offered me some pointers, unsolicited but much appreciated - b/c I was about to ask if any of them taught privately anyway! This vid here helps focus on my takeoff issues. It also takes my mind off the fires raging across my old home of LA, CA - so thanks.🤙🏻
I think you're right, a few months off definitely makes you rusty, but you get it back fast. And the idea of slowing down I think is also super helpful like you said because now I'm very focused on what i'm trying to do. Iv'e surfed a total of 3 times now since the hip (next video will be of the last 2 sessions) and it's all coming back pretty fast. Still slightly rusty tho haha
That's how I take off on my shortboard. In 2018 I had both my hips replaced three months apart and missed 8 months of surfing. I waited until three months after the second one to surf. Shallow reef breaks, so I didn't want to hit the reef before everything healed up. It only took 2 weeks to bounce off of the reef on one of the hips. Felt fine but I did get a precautionary x-ray to be sure nothing broke loose. Once you get that first slam out of the way it's all good. Messed-up shoulders make popups nearly impossible for me anyway.
Oh dang! Well that's encouraging tho thanks! I had small fall on a skateboard that up'ed my confidence quite a bit so I totally get what you're saying. Ah the shoulders... I know I need to start strengthening my shoulders to prevent paddling problems as I get older
So good!!! There were a couple there that looked super smooth, taking your time with the takeoff seemed to really improve your starting position allowing you to worry about that less and get to more critical manoeuvres/gain more speed - can’t wait to see you progress with this 🔥
Thanks bro!! Yea can't wait to keep attempting this. Next video i'm messing with trying to do the same thing but focus more on finding the tail and doing more of a tail pop. Did very well with it, but backside was tough! I may need to make a video where I attempt the way you do it.. seemingly a drop knee and your right hand always touches the water.
@@LongboardSessionsoh epic!! Yeah with the takeoff on the tail it’s great because it means you HAVE to pop up critical - but that can be trickier to achieve haha - the drop knee can really help on the backhand because you can much more finely distribute weight on the back foot with your toes like that, the heel can be so clunky!! Haha
Brian, you were missed! I love your humor and you always have great tips! Stoked to see you surfing and posting again! I was wondering, do you think this technique would work for bigger waves? Maybe only if they are mushy? My local break tends to be pretty fast.
Thanks so much!! I think it would work in bigger waves, but Iv'e never tried it. Where I surf is a pretty fast beach break as well so I don't think tha'ts a problem, but it definitely doesn't work on certain waves
The prone position gives a smooth feeling and sets up nicely for a nice bottom turn. I really enjoy that feeling of power/ drive your talking about. Going to a faded takeoff often gives even more of a power feel. Sadly there is little room for them on short shoulder waves I surf 80% of the time, it does require more of a lined up wave.
Good to see that you're back in the water and surfing again! I find that I hold up too long in the prone position or maybe it is what you said - I have to set my line faster so that I am traveling along the wave and capturing the energy and speed of the wave to move me toward the shoulder. Sounds like my next session tomorrow is going to concentrate on this. Fingers crossed - it all works. Cheers from NZ.
Thanks Jack!! SO happy to be back haha. I hear you about staying prone too long, this could happen if your pop up is slow or you're not confident with it. I don't remember you having much issue with the pop up tho. For sure try setting your line before hand and see what happens!
I don't surf in the winter time anymore. The hardest thing for me to get back into is the feeling of moving on the wave. Skating really helps speed up that process. 🤙🇺🇲🇺🇦
@@LongboardSessions out of curiosity what thickness of wetsuit do you have. I have a 6/5/4 with 7mm boots and 3 mm gloves and this setup is doing me fine in 45 degree F water as long as I am doing a bit of paddling to warm up inside the thing. (great vids by the way, really enjoy them)
I do this in slow, weak waves on a sub 6ft board all the time, but if I am in decent shortboard waves or on a 9'4 log, there's no delay. If I'm up too quick on a log, I just fade and get to the power that way. Same result, and it looks cooler. 😎
I have nowhere near your longboard skills, but I've had quite a few late takeoffs where I've popped up into the powerful bottom sucking section of the wave and slingshotted off a bottom turn into speed straight away, the feeling is awesome, and found myself naturally delaying my popups when I got on waves early just so I could do something similar. I watched a shortboarders instructional course talking about how the different parts of a wave behave and this lines up with that portion of the wave they said has the most suction to push off, which appears to be what Devon does.
Ahh yes exactly! Yea once you do it right or accidentally , it’s a great feeling. It’s a nice tool to have when you want that burst of speed off the bottom turn !
nice video, try doing a fade with that technique,and then turn on top to set up for nose ride or keep fading down the wave to setup for a big bottom turn. that one is my all time favorite. especially if its barreling.
Oh yes sir! I do need to work on the 'turn on top'. I always tend to fade and do a big bottom turn which is cool, but i'm not doing it on purpose lol. I need to learn to be a bit quicker and stay higher on after the pop on the fade
Haha. I think I had my hip done about the same time, back on the mtb and aching to get back on the board. Slightly warmer here in Aus, enjoying yr vids.
Nice, I've done this to good effect, seen others do it, now, need to do it more. I think this is just what the doctor ordered. Btw, I got 2 new hips since 2020. Right in 2020, left in 2022. Good to go!
Oh yes very true! I think where it is now is perfect tho, I wouldn't want it any farther back on the chingona. On the CI log i put it all the way back as there's no leash string on that one
I often do that because I'm 62 and my pop up is slow. If I pop up as fast as I can, I end up riding straight to the beach because I'm so slow I pop up at the bottom of the wave. So I take the wave, turn the board, and have plenty of time to pop up 😁😁😁
How do you prevent your nose from going into a nosedive? I am an absolute beginner on a 8ft board. I am all fine on white water, but on steeper green waves, my nose just dives like crazy...
Could be a few reasons. It's most likely because you're taking off straight instead of on an angle. Try angling your takeoff in the direction you want to go and that should fix a few things!
@@LongboardSessions Thanks for your replay. i am taking of straight indeed, I see you move instantly after the pop up in a more angled direction. I am not making enough speed if i try to take an angle. I kinda need the push of the wave to be able to pop up.
Since you can knee paddle with no pain you should at least try to knee paddle takeoff. There's more paddle power, your head and upper body movement creates a weight transfer to the front and it's a simple pivot to the drop knee position. You can get moving fast enough to catch the rolling swell and get in way early. It really helped me after my shoulder dislocation and became my go to take off. Now prone feels weak and awkward but I still use it for bigger waves and turn and burn. Sadly I'm old and don't like the colder water. Seeing you stoked in booties and hood reminds me of younger days. Go get em!
Oh sweet! Iv'e done a knee paddle takoeff before, super fun! It does feel limiting tho, but I bet if you practice it like you have it becomes second nature
Considering you had a hip replacement, from the footage you look so fluid on your longboard skate. Your first time in the water was obviously going to be a mind game of a session but at least your in the water. Currently injured and have been out of the water since late October last. Advised that it could still be another month before I can attempt surfing again. I am surprized you are back at it again so soon, after only two and half months since your surgery. May I ask, what additional training, physio etc, in addition to the longboard skate dancing, did you do? Cheers.
Yea it's not fun being out right?? As for other workouts, I did everything the PT's told me to do. So all of the recovery workouts like clam shells and what not. Now that i'm stronger, Im doing some workouts Ben gave me as well as my other buddy. LOT'S of squats haha! The idea is to strengthen all the muscles around the hip joint for the most part. Currently on my surgical side, my ham string, glute max, and one of the external or internal hip rotation is weak. So still working on that
@LongboardSessions Thanks for the information. Same as, doing physio, squarts and such. Will continue with all that after recovery too. My injury, tore my hamstring in two places. Surfing in, about to go prone and the wave I was on just all folded. Pushed my back foot off the tail and I did a vertical split! Luckily no surgery. Thanks for the response and hope you fully recover.
Dig that you have this out there. I am an old wanna be that still thinks he can make this happen (learn to surf). I am 6', 220 (overweight) and need to find a starter long board that will make me getting out, getting up and getting jacked easy. I am in Huntington Beach, CA. Any recommendations on board to buy. Money not biggest issue, but a great used floater is what I have in mind. i.e. I need something easy I can be successful on, and wanting to get back out there.
Nobody knows! It's quite annoying. The other hip is perfect. Could have been a soccer injury I didn't know about and let go? That's their best guess lol
Oh interesting! I've only heard it as holding off the takeoff. Early takeoff I suppose would be standing up early but straight into a cutback or something.
Now try pointing your toes and keeping your legs straight when you paddle in and paddle in general. It holds you in a better position on the board. That's a game changer.
Oh nice!! You're gonna love being able to use your hip again lol! My biggest tip would be to voice all your concerns to your physical therapist. Don't just go and expect they will properly care for you. Do what they say, but ask questions if you have one and make sure you don't just do your PT at PT.. do it at home every day as well.
Good to see you back in the water Brian. Couldn't agree more on this technique. I've use the delayed pop up by default, sorta found it by accident when I went to pop too early one day and then realised holding a little bit works wonders for me. Really interesting seeing you proactively do it and the difference it makes. Look after that hip.
Honestly, you can find longboard waves at any beach just about! It's helpful to stick to mid to high tides as long as the waves are big enough as they're a little better for longboarding! Monmouth county is a good start
Also, digging on stalling the standup. Instead of trying to stand up at the top, you came down, got going sideways (down the line) where that "Oh Shit" moment beginners can feel is behind you!
I learned a long time ago that your not as much of a teacher as you are lost and confused about surfing... Barefoot surf will teach you to longboard for free, cudos to your journey of experimental longboard instructions.
Didn't realize this was a new video. Welcome back. I've been consuming your old videos since I got into surfing
haha awesome!! Finally back!
As someone who started surfing in 1958 I still have problems with how popular surfing has become. We were a dedicated group who did little more than work at night so we could surf all day. It wasnt just a pass time. The people who made money built surfboards and wetsuits. Now it totally commercialized. It is what it is. Im stoked you are back in the water. Thanks for letting me vent a little. Aloha
Yea the world has definitely changed a lot, not just in the surf industry. Some things good, some things bad, but it is what it is. At least surfing still has a culture surrounding it and for the most part people are cool hehe. Glad to be back!
Totally agree. I am now in Thailand where the surf scene is very new and everyone very friendly and excited about it. It's like going back to the 1970s and so refreshing.
How old were you in 58?
@@davidwilliams7552surfers in the 70s were friendly? 😂😂😂
With any activity, sport or pursuit, it does not belong to any one person or group no matter how far back you started - the originators of surfing could probably say the same thing you are venting about- get over it and enjoy the activity and the perspective and pass on what you know because are lives are temporary.
Holding my takeoffs has helped me reduce my financial and emotional burdens, and my wife came back!
Wow, who knew fixing your takeoff could help on such a deep level??
Holding my takeoffs allowed me to be chosen as one of Trumps new advisors with a million dollar wage, I also grew 6 inches taller and almost all women can’t keep their hands off me. But it’s just the first day tho…
Good to see you back in the water - you make it look effortless! Big love from New Zealand my bro
Thank so much!! So happy to be back haha
Great to see you back Brian. This was timely for me as i have started holding prone recently to get me into that power section. It works so well o faded takeoff as your board will come off a more critical section and flows straight into the steps forward. Good luck with your recovery.
Thanks Andrew! Oh yea totally, if done right, the board flows so much more smoothly. I'm so sick of my floppy faded take offs and now they're smoothing out!
Like all things, there's a place and time and experience level. Glad you're able to get back out there.
yes sir! So happy to be back
Depends on the wave is whether I get up early or not. Sometimes you have no choice but to get up as fast as possible or your feet will be over your head
Yes so true. This is highly wave dependent for sure!
Nice to see you back you give hope for me i have been out of the water for 2 years now waiting for a hip replacement
No sign of one, im British our health system is over worked .Time to sell the Grand kids and self fund they dont need inheritance
Keep the vids coming your a breath of fresh air
Oh man that stinks!! Maybe self fund in a country that's not too expensive.. yet still does a good job haha! Although if you've been waiting for 2 years I imagine you gotta be one of the next. Funny enough, when I finally decided to schedule a date for my new hip, I got a surgery date of 3 weeks later. Not saying our health system is perfect by any means, but that's a plus for sure.
So awesome. Great to see you back at it after that hip! Sharing your experience helps me a lot as I am looking at hip replacement in the near future; offers me hope! I will be conscious of holding my take offs, even when on my shortboard. I've missed a few good ones already this year popping up too soon!
Oh yea! The whole hip replacement process was a breeze. Surgery was a breeze and the recovery wasn’t bad at all!
welcome back .. very nice breakdown of a process we often rush through .. can't wait to try ( Florida )
Thanks!! Florida will be a great place to try this!
@@LongboardSessionsNot to be a total contrarian but I’m watching this and thinking how it won’t work in Florida. Faster, steeper waves than up in the northeast. I’m all about giving it a beat before the pop up, but I find that down here you gotta be quick on your feet.
I paused here at 2:19 seconds because I had this moment of Holy Christ and had to comment. I may come back and comment again after watching the entire video. I’ve been thinking all day about how I hold my popups because I don’t feel the power of the wave and once I do, then I pop up. I feel it, Here I am all this time thinking I am wrong because I see everyone else pop up super fast. OMG!!! I’m doing something right! By the way, it’s Maria M, an LS member with hip replacement 😊
I have that fin!! Hopeful to try it out in LB soon .
Yikes!!! The thrill of seeing one’s name on your Chingpna
As a Longboard Sessions member, I can vouch for the validity of this program. The three of them are so attentive and hyper involved. The members are super helpful, respectful and very chill. If you were thinking of joining, do it!!
Awesome video. Great to see you out there surfing and talking!! Yew!!!
Well that's the best comment ever Maria!! So happy to have you on the site!
Yes you instinctually are doing it right! I'm just naturally so impatient that it's a hard habit to get rid of lol. But I'm absolutley loving it so far
@ The site you three created is absolutely incredible. The learning videos In successive order are just so brilliant. I love it at Longboard Sessions. Great work guys!!! 💖
It’s probably because you surf NJ beach break. You’re thinking Gooooo!!!
As I was watching Ben C's vid a few days ago, I wondered what was up w/you, and here you are. Wow, a hip replacement... maybe that will slow down your process - but in a good way.
The last time I surfed was in the days after Xmas and prior to that on day after Thanksgiving, but I was so focused on prep for cold water (my first time in official winter up here in MA) that I caught few waves and forgot many skills. Fortunately, a couple of experienced surfers offered me some pointers, unsolicited but much appreciated - b/c I was about to ask if any of them taught privately anyway!
This vid here helps focus on my takeoff issues. It also takes my mind off the fires raging across my old home of LA, CA - so thanks.🤙🏻
I think you're right, a few months off definitely makes you rusty, but you get it back fast. And the idea of slowing down I think is also super helpful like you said because now I'm very focused on what i'm trying to do. Iv'e surfed a total of 3 times now since the hip (next video will be of the last 2 sessions) and it's all coming back pretty fast. Still slightly rusty tho haha
Great to see you back in the water brother. Love the winter gear 🙂. Here too... Really appreciated the knee ride early. I know that move all too well!
haha yes!! When in doubt, knees work great haha
I have a couple of surfing mates that have had hips done. They don't have any problems. Happy new year 👍
Oh that's great to hear! Happy new year
Dude - Get well soon! Love your approach & your content!
Thanks so much!! Can't wait to keep it going!
Congrats on the recovery! Looking forward to more vids!
thanks Andrew! Can't wait
Really unlocked something for me today, on shortboard even!
That's how I take off on my shortboard. In 2018 I had both my hips replaced three months apart and missed 8 months of surfing. I waited until three months after the second one to surf. Shallow reef breaks, so I didn't want to hit the reef before everything healed up. It only took 2 weeks to bounce off of the reef on one of the hips. Felt fine but I did get a precautionary x-ray to be sure nothing broke loose. Once you get that first slam out of the way it's all good. Messed-up shoulders make popups nearly impossible for me anyway.
Oh dang! Well that's encouraging tho thanks! I had small fall on a skateboard that up'ed my confidence quite a bit so I totally get what you're saying. Ah the shoulders... I know I need to start strengthening my shoulders to prevent paddling problems as I get older
So good!!! There were a couple there that looked super smooth, taking your time with the takeoff seemed to really improve your starting position allowing you to worry about that less and get to more critical manoeuvres/gain more speed - can’t wait to see you progress with this 🔥
Thanks bro!! Yea can't wait to keep attempting this. Next video i'm messing with trying to do the same thing but focus more on finding the tail and doing more of a tail pop. Did very well with it, but backside was tough! I may need to make a video where I attempt the way you do it.. seemingly a drop knee and your right hand always touches the water.
@@LongboardSessionsoh epic!! Yeah with the takeoff on the tail it’s great because it means you HAVE to pop up critical - but that can be trickier to achieve haha - the drop knee can really help on the backhand because you can much more finely distribute weight on the back foot with your toes like that, the heel can be so clunky!! Haha
You guys need to tee up a session at Noosa Tea Tree
@@julianatognolo9072 YES!! haha would love that
Oh heck yes!
Your “out of practice” is like my A game🙈😆😆😆🤙
Glad you’re back and feeling good buddy. 🎉
haha!! thanks Adam!
Brian, you were missed! I love your humor and you always have great tips! Stoked to see you surfing and posting again!
I was wondering, do you think this technique would work for bigger waves? Maybe only if they are mushy? My local break tends to be pretty fast.
Thanks so much!! I think it would work in bigger waves, but Iv'e never tried it. Where I surf is a pretty fast beach break as well so I don't think tha'ts a problem, but it definitely doesn't work on certain waves
@LongboardSessions awesome! Thank you for the tips!
Welcome back Brian! Great video!! Thanks.
Thanks Brian! Glad to be back !
The prone position gives a smooth feeling and sets up nicely for a nice bottom turn. I really enjoy that feeling of power/ drive your talking about. Going to a faded takeoff often gives even more of a power feel. Sadly there is little room for them on short shoulder waves I surf 80% of the time, it does require more of a lined up wave.
Yes that's exactly right! Just feels so natural when done properly!
Way to go Brian! Thankful for you! You inspire! Be encouraged Champ!
Awesome thanks so much!! Can't wait to get out some more!
Good to see that you're back in the water and surfing again! I find that I hold up too long in the prone position or maybe it is what you said - I have to set my line faster so that I am traveling along the wave and capturing the energy and speed of the wave to move me toward the shoulder. Sounds like my next session tomorrow is going to concentrate on this. Fingers crossed - it all works. Cheers from NZ.
Thanks Jack!! SO happy to be back haha. I hear you about staying prone too long, this could happen if your pop up is slow or you're not confident with it. I don't remember you having much issue with the pop up tho. For sure try setting your line before hand and see what happens!
You are a gift to courage and commitment ❤😅
haha thanks so much!!
Great to seeya back, man!
Thanks!! So glad to be back.. yeww!!
Man, I love your videos! Wish you full recover man, you inspire!
oh that's awesome to hear! Thanks so much!!
I don't surf in the winter time anymore. The hardest thing for me to get back into is the feeling of moving on the wave. Skating really helps speed up that process. 🤙🇺🇲🇺🇦
Oh yea skating is great for that! Yea.. winter can be brutal haha
@@LongboardSessions out of curiosity what thickness of wetsuit do you have. I have a 6/5/4 with 7mm boots and 3 mm gloves and this setup is doing me fine in 45 degree F water as long as I am doing a bit of paddling to warm up inside the thing. (great vids by the way, really enjoy them)
10 weeks after hip replacement?? Well done, respect! Greetings from a Dutch psysical therapist.
Yes!! thanks!! Yea i'm feeling pretty good, now i'm 3 months out and getting better and better so far.
Glad your hip surgery went well! Welcome back:)
Thanks so much!
You’re back bro. I need to try this next time. Sometimes I feel so rushed on the pop up, looks like a good way to slow it down
yes sir!! Oh yea totally, this could help. However, if you're pop up still needs work, this could make it worse. Worth a shot either way!
Glad you are back in the water! Sounds like you need a surf trip..
haha yes!!! I'm dying for one
I think holding off makes stabilizing the board on the face easier since you have a lower center of gravity. It feels like bodyboarding.
Yes I think you're right!
I do this in slow, weak waves on a sub 6ft board all the time, but if I am in decent shortboard waves or on a 9'4 log, there's no delay. If I'm up too quick on a log, I just fade and get to the power that way. Same result, and it looks cooler. 😎
I have nowhere near your longboard skills, but I've had quite a few late takeoffs where I've popped up into the powerful bottom sucking section of the wave and slingshotted off a bottom turn into speed straight away, the feeling is awesome, and found myself naturally delaying my popups when I got on waves early just so I could do something similar. I watched a shortboarders instructional course talking about how the different parts of a wave behave and this lines up with that portion of the wave they said has the most suction to push off, which appears to be what Devon does.
Ahh yes exactly! Yea once you do it right or accidentally , it’s a great feeling. It’s a nice tool to have when you want that burst of speed off the bottom turn !
nice video, try doing a fade with that technique,and then turn on top to set up for nose ride or keep fading down the wave to setup for a big bottom turn. that one is my all time favorite. especially if its barreling.
Oh yes sir! I do need to work on the 'turn on top'. I always tend to fade and do a big bottom turn which is cool, but i'm not doing it on purpose lol. I need to learn to be a bit quicker and stay higher on after the pop on the fade
Haha. I think I had my hip done about the same time, back on the mtb and aching to get back on the board. Slightly warmer here in Aus, enjoying yr vids.
Oh awesome! MTB will strengthen you up as well I imagine!
I've been meaning to have a session using this drill... tough to not jump up immediately if one is used to it but I see the benefits
It is so hard to resist popping early , but I’m slowly getting used to it haha
Nice, I've done this to good effect, seen others do it, now, need to do it more. I think this is just what the doctor ordered. Btw, I got 2 new hips since 2020. Right in 2020, left in 2022. Good to go!
A fellow metal hip friend haha!! That's awesome, yea been really loving doing this lately. So glad to be back in the water
well done! as you're refining your style you might want to keep an eye on that paddling technique too. Slow=accuracy=more control=more efficient
On a backside takeoff it’s fun to grab the rail do a sharp bottom turn.
OH now that's something I gotta try !
Great job, as usual the waves look super fun. Unfortunately you will never dethrone world surf/skate number 1 Sterling Spencer! lol
haha I just looked that guy up! So good haha
If you want the fin to go further back you could do an overhang
Oh yes very true! I think where it is now is perfect tho, I wouldn't want it any farther back on the chingona. On the CI log i put it all the way back as there's no leash string on that one
I often do that because I'm 62 and my pop up is slow. If I pop up as fast as I can, I end up riding straight to the beach because I'm so slow I pop up at the bottom of the wave. So I take the wave, turn the board, and have plenty of time to pop up 😁😁😁
Hey not a bad way to do it ! Get going down the line prone. Good practice for other things as well
i really need to work on my faded take offs
yes me too! Next video i'm going to be talking about finding the tail of the board, which helps a ton with faded takeoffs.
How do you prevent your nose from going into a nosedive? I am an absolute beginner on a 8ft board. I am all fine on white water, but on steeper green waves, my nose just dives like crazy...
Could be a few reasons. It's most likely because you're taking off straight instead of on an angle. Try angling your takeoff in the direction you want to go and that should fix a few things!
@@LongboardSessions Thanks for your replay. i am taking of straight indeed, I see you move instantly after the pop up in a more angled direction. I am not making enough speed if i try to take an angle. I kinda need the push of the wave to be able to pop up.
Since you can knee paddle with no pain you should at least try to knee paddle takeoff.
There's more paddle power, your head and upper body movement creates a weight transfer to the front and it's a simple pivot to the drop knee position.
You can get moving fast enough to catch the rolling swell and get in way early.
It really helped me after my shoulder dislocation and became my go to take off.
Now prone feels weak and awkward but I still use it for bigger waves and turn and burn.
Sadly I'm old and don't like the colder water.
Seeing you stoked in booties and hood reminds me of younger days.
Go get em!
Oh sweet! Iv'e done a knee paddle takoeff before, super fun! It does feel limiting tho, but I bet if you practice it like you have it becomes second nature
Considering you had a hip replacement, from the footage you look so fluid on your longboard skate.
Your first time in the water was obviously going to be a mind game of a session but at least your in the water.
Currently injured and have been out of the water since late October last. Advised that it could still be another month before I can attempt surfing again. I am surprized you are back at it again so soon, after only two and half months since your surgery.
May I ask, what additional training, physio etc, in addition to the longboard skate dancing, did you do? Cheers.
Yea it's not fun being out right?? As for other workouts, I did everything the PT's told me to do. So all of the recovery workouts like clam shells and what not. Now that i'm stronger, Im doing some workouts Ben gave me as well as my other buddy. LOT'S of squats haha! The idea is to strengthen all the muscles around the hip joint for the most part. Currently on my surgical side, my ham string, glute max, and one of the external or internal hip rotation is weak. So still working on that
@LongboardSessions Thanks for the information. Same as, doing physio, squarts and such. Will continue with all that after recovery too.
My injury, tore my hamstring in two places. Surfing in, about to go prone and the wave I was on just all folded. Pushed my back foot off the tail and I did a vertical split!
Luckily no surgery.
Thanks for the response and hope you fully recover.
Brian! Oh no, im sorry to hear about your hip... Was this a surfing accident? Wishing you well and more waves brotha.
Dig that you have this out there. I am an old wanna be that still thinks he can make this happen (learn to surf). I am 6', 220 (overweight) and need to find a starter long board that will make me getting out, getting up and getting jacked easy. I am in Huntington Beach, CA. Any recommendations on board to buy. Money not biggest issue, but a great used floater is what I have in mind. i.e. I need something easy I can be successful on, and wanting to get back out there.
How did you wear out your hip joint?
Nobody knows! It's quite annoying. The other hip is perfect. Could have been a soccer injury I didn't know about and let go? That's their best guess lol
@@LongboardSessionsProbably worn out from kicking so many goals!!!
A good surfer can do no paddle takeoffs.
yes sir!
Every wava you popped up on you got good long rides. You just about dug a rail on the other ones. 🤔😂🇺🇲🇺🇦🤙
Haha!!
I've heard this technique being called an 'early takeoff' (as opposed to late takeoff) although I'm not sure if that's really a thing
Oh interesting! I've only heard it as holding off the takeoff. Early takeoff I suppose would be standing up early but straight into a cutback or something.
Now try pointing your toes and keeping your legs straight when you paddle in and paddle in general. It holds you in a better position on the board. That's a game changer.
Oh interesting i'll have to give that a shot!
The sport should have been called paddling instead of surfing , the best surfers are the best paddlers
@@rickdevine4150 So true!
Hi im about to take my first surf class and i want to know where do u surf
Oh that's awesome! I surf monmouth county, but honestly, there are good waves almost anywhere!
I like a lot your Channel im watching your old videos
Ty you are back
@@papapapasito667 Awesome thanks so much! Glad to be back
I'm about to get a hip replacement as well. Any tips for recovery please?
Oh nice!! You're gonna love being able to use your hip again lol! My biggest tip would be to voice all your concerns to your physical therapist. Don't just go and expect they will properly care for you. Do what they say, but ask questions if you have one and make sure you don't just do your PT at PT.. do it at home every day as well.
Good to see you back in the water Brian. Couldn't agree more on this technique. I've use the delayed pop up by default, sorta found it by accident when I went to pop too early one day and then realised holding a little bit works wonders for me. Really interesting seeing you proactively do it and the difference it makes. Look after that hip.
Well you're a smart man for coming up with holding off on your own haha! Iv'e been surfing most of my life and never really even considered it lol
@@LongboardSessions mine definitely came from laziness on the drop in though lol
Hey sometimes laziness comes in handy ! haha
Hi I live in north jersey and want to get into long board surfing. Do you recommend my beach in winter I can go to?
Honestly, you can find longboard waves at any beach just about! It's helpful to stick to mid to high tides as long as the waves are big enough as they're a little better for longboarding! Monmouth county is a good start
@ will definitely hit the shore. Thanks
Also, digging on stalling the standup. Instead of trying to stand up at the top, you came down, got going sideways (down the line) where that "Oh Shit" moment beginners can feel is behind you!
Hes so back
You better believe it Ryan!
Half a foot crumbly waves is easy to do this. At a point with 4 foot plus you’d get smoked.
I learned a long time ago that your not as much of a teacher as you are lost and confused about surfing... Barefoot surf will teach you to longboard for free, cudos to your journey of experimental longboard instructions.
Yikes
If you do that delayed takeoff in bigger surf you’re gonna get pitched every time
Instead of teaching kooks the “take off”, we should teach them the “SPLIT”!!!!!
Glad you're feeling good enough to get wet again!
yewww!! So excited haha
you;re risking really messing up your new hip if you fall on it
Well to a certain extent yes. Iv'e taken a fall on the skateboard already and survived haha! Gotta live life right??
Hip replacement?????? Do yoga!!! Get off those longboards. Its making u lazy. Harleys and longboards are for when u hit 70.
Nah, longboards are the bomb! Pretty sure yoga doesn't cure severe hip arthritis either?