How To Paddle Out The Back On Bigger Boards
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- Опубликовано: 16 фев 2021
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Duck diving bigger surfboards is a big challenge but there are some tried and tested strategies that you can use to quickly make it out the back without wasting too much energy!
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Kale: How to duck dive bigger boards.
Kale: Don't duck dive bigger boards.
😂😂
Trying to duck dive a longboard caused me to get a permanent shoulder injury. I had watched a youtube video that told me to slice the rail of my board down to get it under the water and then complete the duck as normal. In so doing, the hand that was holding that deeper rail was forcing me to fully extend my arm and when the wave came it jarred it really hard. Bastard who made that video. It doesn't work.
I’ve seen a guy duck drive an 8 and 9 ft board easily.... it is not impossible
I duckdive my 9'1" no problems. I'm 110kg though and quite strong so maybe that's why.
@@kitida6554 that board was probably waterlogged or full of sand
I have another method for you Kale. Really works well. I had breast cancer and due to the side effects of my treatment I suffer severe wrist pain. The less I have to cling onto my Mal to get to the back the better. So no turtle-rolls for me anymore. I simply paddle hard towards the wave and just before the white-water hits, I sit up, as if riding a horse. I push the nose of the board down with my body weight and then lift my butt of the board so the water rushes underneath between me and the board. With bigger waves you do get dragged back a bit, but practice makes perfect. The moment the water hits you, just stay in the upright position but lean your weight forward. You kind of pop up and forwards at the same time. Give it a try. Love your vids. Keeps safe.
The turtle roll is definitely the best method if the waves are big enough to merit needing serious concern about how to get through them. Honestly, turtle diving is the only way I can get out when the waves are 6-10+ on any board that is over 7"0. The best way to turtle roll is to keep your body tight to the board and if you roll clockwise, keep rolling clockwise, this way there is no "clamboring" back onto the board. If you are going to need to duck dive you just push the board under using the front 50% of the board favoring one side or the other instead of 100% nose down. Hope this is as helpful as most of these videos are to new surfers.
thanks bro, just brought a funboard 6'6'', those tips wil be very helpful! ty mate
Just wanted to write something similar. While I love most of those videos, it becomes apparent that Kale is no fan of longboards and thus never has to actually use the turtle role efficiently. The idea behind the turtlerole is similar to duckdive but on the back. You want to pull the nose down as deep as you can while stabilizing the tail with one leg. This way the wave will clash on the tale while you will dive with the nose under the wave - the tailclash giving you a push to get up behind the wave. Also there should be no „climbing“ back on the board. Ideally it is one smooth rotation and you pop out on the other side of the wave already on your board.
Thanks for the tips! Very helpful as a beginner...
When I turtle with my long board, I kick the tail up with my foot which acts in a similar way as duck diving. As the wave passes over it pushes the tail down and puts the nose upward.
Here's what I've used at my home breaks in Hawaii, works well on short or long boards. Paddle fast toward the wall of white water, and just before it hits, i slide off the right side of the board facing the beach. As in doing this, I grip the rails near the nose of the board, right hand on the left rail and left hand on the right rail. Then, sink the nose under the white water... the paddling momentum will help you do this, it's really one fluid movement as you are sliding off the board, you kind of throw yourself under the wave while pulling your board along. By getting the nose under the wave, it's less likely to rip it away, and you only need to get the nose down, not the whole board while makes this ideal for long board. Grip super tight so your board get ripped away... but even if it does, you are not in the path since you're in the side of the board and also under it. Now, when the wave hits, it will try to drag you... hang tight and use your body as an anchor to counter the wave trying to drag you in. Done right, you won't get pushed too far. Better than ditching your board, more responsible and at least you have a good shot of making it through. Once the wave passes, climb back on and paddle! I've used this in pretty suzable and powerful stuff, just something I've come up with that works. Try it and comment back if it works for you. Hope it helps!
Thanks Kale, another great vid. When I was just starting out, on flat days I'd go out to work on paddle strength and to practice turtle rolls. I made a drill of 20 paddle strokes, turtle roll, repeat x 2, then rest. It helped to improve the speed of remounting the board, making paddle outs more efficient. Plus, it was kinda fun and a good way to goof about when there were no waves. Also, make sure you get the nose of the board under the water so the wave has a better chance of rolling over the top of you.
Really cool to see these instructional videos , didn't have them in my day ! As a guy whose always on a 9' or bigger I've had to master these and a few more . I'd respectfully add you can hook your toes on the rails of longer boards as you turtle roll for extra control and trim , then add a few one legged kicks and you keep spinning until right back up and paddling , never leave the board. Also IF IT"S SAFE , when it's clear you HAVE to bale either 1) Push your board as far away as possible towards shore before diving under, that way the leash has less chance to boomerang back because theres no slack (like towing a car ) . Option 2) You can flip the board over ( lets water pass over better ) and grab the strap where the leash connects to the board and dive/ drag the board through the wave . Neither of these are crowd friendly though so factor that in . Spend a few session dedicated to managing these situations and you'd be surprised what you can get through when you can't duck dive .
Great idea about practicing. Something I need to do as a beginner on a big board!
hey kale! could you make a video talking about breath holding techniques and how to increase breath hold time?
Yes please
Ohhh yeah
Love this idea!!
please!!
Haha yes I've had to many close calls in the past
I hate the turtle roll. At least the benefit of a bigger board is faster hull speed so can get out to the back faster than a shortboard. Great video.
Thank you!
I personally don’t mind it for some breaks, but ya it sucks when getting back up ⬆️
@@RickyRicardo03 About one in ten times I manage to pop back up on the board using my momentum. Obviously 9 out of 10 times I don’t though. 😂 I always just assumed this was my kooky incompetence, but I’m relieved to know Kale finds it tricky too!
What do you mean by hull speed?
@@MrDeking10 ‘Hull speed’ refers to how the board performs when sat down in the water like a boat at paddling speeds. When you’re riding a wave, the board is planing (skipping over the surface), so hydrodynamically obeys different rules. A board that’s fast when surfing and planing is not necessarily fast when ploughing through the water, and vice versa. The two states are very different.
Thanks Kale. I'm about to embark on my 1st surf lesson in a messy windy Croyde Bay. These tips will definitely help. Now i've just got to remember the other lessons. Again. thank you.
Kales! you forgot the rollercoaster - as the wave approaches push the nose of your board underwater sit up further forward on your board and throw your hands in the air. (Only works on small to some medium sized waves)
Thanks Kale. good vid. Glad to see that I am not the only one who finds duck diving larger volume boards exhausting! CAught in a cold climate with work ties meaning limited surfing opportunities I get paddle unfit quickly. I ride a large volume board (7’4” 49L toget past this) and generally do duck dive by paddling hard at the wave adn submerging nose just before wave to help get it under. Timing is everything-a little bit off on bigger surf and I’m nailed. I struggle with turtle rolling in short period British swell so use a mixture of techniques as you demonstrated too when I realise I am sapping energy with the duck diving. One extra technique I now use, rather than ditching my board, is getting off and tucking the nose under my right arm using my weight to submerge it more passively. Watched some Hawaiian long boarders doing this in bigger waves when ditching not an option. Works quite well for me and saves the fear of leg rope giving way and long swim back in cold ocean..
I've figured out a method by sitting up on my board turning my board and body 90 degrees to the side while holding the rails tight with both hands and when the white water is just about to hit me I lean into the white water. I call this move the anchored buoy. It helps alot when there's nonstop white water coming in and you don't want to be duck diving all day and getting water in your ears, eyes, nose and mouth if you forget to close it haha! Also turning your head towards the shore so that the white water doesn't blast into your ear is another important tip! Obviously this only works with smaller white waters as overhead ones will probably flip you. In that case turning turtle is a better option. But if most of rest of the waves are smaller white washes you can do the anchored buoy move as much as you want and conserve your energy and also keep your eyeballs dry so you can see what kinds of waves may be coming your direction that you can catch and ride. Wiping your eyes over and over when you don't have to is lame and can make your face raw. Sitting up high over the water is sort of like half a stand up paddle boarding which is better than having your face be inches from the water. Plus you are more stable because both hands are holding the rails which is holding your upper body upright and both of your legs are in the water so they are like 2 big roots to stabilize you as the white water hits you for a split second. As long as you are not in anybodys way as they're riding the wave is the most important part because you don't want to be run over! Most of the time everybody already paddled in because they are tired from doing to much duck diving! So you will be out there alone. It also helps when the water is cold because Sitting up above the water on your board means that you are spending less time in the cold water as much as possible. So you come out the winner in all aspects, energy conservation, better visual on waves crowds and your surroundings. Scanning and selecting waves is enhanced and most of all you get less salt water up your nose and in your eyes and ears!
I think a better technique vice ditching you board (as long as it is not too big) is to jump off, grab the nose with your arm wrapped around the board, and dive under the wave. This gets the less volume nose under the water and hopefully uses the waves force to push the rest of the board down and letting the most power go over you and the board. Plus this put you next to the board horizontal which means you and the board have less friction in the water.
Great video! Summarises the struggle of dealing with larger boards so well 😅 one thing that took me years to figure out was how to time a paddle out to get at least some way out the back before the next set without having to waste energy turtle rolling etc. Not always possible in messy conditions though.
I often use a 125 liter SUP - my preferred method for bigger surf is to grab the leash where it connects to the board (the webbing) and go deep. The advantage is that the board does not get away from you, pulls you back up to the surface, and the board is right there to get back on.
At our break, holding the leash results in a painful experience when the wave wins the tug of war. I have found that lightly holding the rail saver part while putting a hand on the tail is a safer way to do the same. And with a light hold, you can release the board.
Be careful...I'm a physician and have seen some terrible hand and finger injuries from the leash where it connects to the SUP...Heavy leash and big board can generate a lot of force on that point …Your board is low volume...it's more common on high volume SUP...My advice is to never touch the leash-board connection on the SUP in any sizable surf.
I had a fair bit of trouble with an efficient Turtle roll and it is quite heavy on energy but not as bad as getting nailed back to the shore constantly..Then I watched this one tutorial by a lady on youtube and it all became clear..The trick is not to roll parallel with the board like Mr Brock does, (no offence man you are a Legend) but to do a pushup and almost go feet first off the board into the water so you act like an anchor. So you and your board form a T shape. As you are underwater holding your board above your head, you then extend your arms backwards to punch the nose of the board through the wave behind you.. It also helps to try to angle the nose of the board down, slightly towards the sea floor..This stops the board getting ripped out of your hands and helps the board slip under the main turbulence of the wave (like the foot/knee push on a duckdive does)..Also, grab the rails higher than half way...Hard to explain but if it,s ok with Mr Brock i,ll see if I can dig out the tutorial..It helped me loads..I almost enjoy doing them now...XD...Almost..)
Hey mate. Did you find this tutorial? very keen to try it out
@@81banga yea if you leave a comment on a vid on my channel i,ll put the link..Mr Kale probably doesnt want me posting links to other channels here
Thanks man! I have been struggling with my 6.6, 45L board. Now I understand!
Kale, this video is amazing and enjoyable, thank you!
This a great video. I was so frustrated not being able to get to the back this past weekend. I got destroyed using the turtle roll. It's the worst. A guy at my local surf shop said the same thing about being better off ditching my board when no one is near. The times I was able to get out there I was too tired to paddle into a wave. Going to try these other techniques. Thanks, Kale.
Love the vid brother, you always have the best teaching tutorial voice. When I go out next, I’m gonna use that “rocket ship” technique!
A friend taught me an alternative to the turtle roll that apparently is a favorite of Wingnut. You are down in the water, next to the midpoint of your board facing perpendicular to it. You hold onto the further away rail with both hands and pull your board firmly into your belly. Then you jump up as the whitewater hits you and it lifts you up. I don't do this a lot, as the turtle roll works fine for me, but I have tried it a few times and it does work.
I was really surprised that you said it was ok to ditch your board! 😯 Most beginners would not know if it was safe or not (usually NOT, given the crowds nowadays.) At any of the places I surf here in California, you would get a severe scolding or worse for ditching your board, and forget getting any waves there that day if people saw you do that!!!! One thing that does work tho and is safe: you can hold onto the rail saver of your leash (not the leash itself, the urethane can stretch out in such a way that it can actually cut you.) This helps if you find yourself caught inside by a bigger wave.
Good comment! I also balked at the suggestion to ditch the board to a beginner. I would say don't do it - always hold on to your board (unless you are absolutely sure there is no one behind). Ask yourself how you would feel if another surfer got smashed by your board?
Yes, I often hold on to the rail saver. Just important to hold on really strong and keep your arm close to your body so it doesn't get ripped out.😅
Pure zen.
The foam boards really are a workout, but indestructible for the youngsters. My kids love them, but they don’t mind the work. 😎✌🏽
I've just started learning to surf and as a beginner on a big board I'm quickly realising how important it is to know these techniques! I think I'll need to try the turtle roll as it's not fun getting thrown off when the wave is breaking or has broken!
Kale, how about how to turn on a longboard? Especially how to backside turn on a longboard, please!!
I just got a new taj burrows board a 6”6 and I can’t wait to ride it! It is a foamy so I don’t know if it will work but we will see!
Whoa I surfed here at Parson's today and you posted this today! What a coincidence! I was using my larger board a 6 "11, will use smaller one next time the waves are that size
Definitely use the rip current. On small days, I find that it helps a little, and on larger days, it is essential. Also, I like to wait for a lull between bigger sets.
I also struggle with the turtle roll. But I’ve seen guys who do it really well. They do a 360 spin so it’s a turtle and rolling back up in one continuous motion. Look super sick 🤙
So helpful for a beginner surfer like me!! thank you!
Cool, thank you for keeping it funkified !
Thanks kale this is just what I needed because I’m a beginner that uses foamies and The waves are bigger right now then in summer where I live so I’ve been working on getting out the back!
Awesome!!
Thanks Kale! It was really helpful! 🤙
Good One Kale!! Well in mate on that floater and inside section. All smiles for you two is a win win!! Now I'm gonna watch the last two and 1/2 minutes!! When I turtle roll i go all the way around under water and out the other side, instead of turning back to the same side. I did this by trial and error a few years back friend, and I've found the full spin allows more chance of less momentum lost underneath. I don't hook my feet but rather spin all the way as Im entering underneath the foam i begin my spin and as you fully turn over you can use that momentum to push through/forward. Hope this helps!! Your such a good surfer and love your airs!! I'd love to do one one day!! Any chance for barrel help or air session again? Cheers!!
out here in the great lakes its 75%, 6'5 and bigger boards just bc the wave power & length isnt there, not to mention 8 second periods are pretty much the max unless we get super dreamy..... so we get pretty creative w getting out the back, mostly jumping off the piers. im a hockey player too so i usually just paddle face first at the biggest peak and swear at it while it washes me back to the beach!!!!!
thx for the stoke!
Great vid Mr. Broccoli
This vid made me realize I’m not subscribed thank you for all the help god bless you and your family
Very nice parsons. I have a 9 ft and duck dive but you need to be string and fit
Excellent job bro
Turtle roll comments FTW. However, after 100’s of attempts and some kayaking, My tip is treat it more like a kayak Eskimo roll, assuming you need to maintain momentum on the roll and come back upright with yourself ready to paddle. This takes forever for most people to learn in a kayak, and to your point being upside down is freaky and disorienting for many with any apparatus, but it does work quite well it certain conditions and especially with massive boards (9+). Also, nothing wrong with the appropriately spaced panic ditch either 😂 nice one 🥬
Yeap! If you maintain the momentum, you actually come back on top of the boad already, with some speed, and paddling. But it is an annoying technique
Agree. If your board has more cork, a quick Eskimo roll in larger surf or close-outs on the inside works a treat.
Oh yeah, don’t forget to let go of the board if the wave decides it wants it more than you do;)
Love a good panic ditch haha
Great getting out tutorial!
i personally like to use the raise method when i first get in and then once i get farther out where the waves get bigger i use the rocket ship and I've been able to get over head high walls of white water with that move but once it gets to over head and above i just stand on the board and jump off to dive under the wave
Thats with a 8.0 soft top
When I turtle, I try to get the nose under the incoming wave and keep my body close to the deck to avoid separation.
"Try" is the key here. Big days with short intervals are just a part of the game.
Finding a rip is great if it forms, being between jetties is a bonus.
I like surfing big boards. One of my go-to's is a 11 footer. With the turtle roll it helps to angle the nose of the board slightly towards the sand to negate being pulled inwards. I also scoot towards the nose a bit and brace the board using my forearms while under the wave. Once the wave has passed over you, you can rotate the board over, right yourself, and pull it under you and between your legs to a sitting position where you can start paddling again. However you do it, it sucks getting past the break on bigger days. lol
yewwww!
Instead of a regular duck dive, you can perform a rail slice to get a chunkier board underwater, level the board, and then follow through with a duck dive.
Exactly, I literally duck dive a 9'6" like this, bit more difficult in heavier surf,
Yep, this is what I do too. Still requires a decent push to get the nose down under the water, but if you time it correctly it's very effective
Easier said than done
Another great video, for my two cents one of my boards it's a massive 9'6" / 81 L & I'm a small guy (5'5" 140 lbs + / -). I'm really surprised at some of the wave heights I'm able to traverse using the push up method (kind of like the pop up on take off); it's a little athletic in that u transfer ur weight forward as u go towards vertical to nose over the crest be in green or foam but it's also a heck of a ride as u surf down the backside. Occasionally I even get complimented out in the line up for my paddle out🙂 It's all personal preference I guess but rolling or trying to duck dive my aircraft carrier is a lost cause so I don't even bother anymore. Another great point of the video is to go around the steep ones if u can (like flying around cumulous systems). Go easy bros!
Pretty cool seeing you at all the spots I can recognise haha
If you're starting out on a big foam board like I am and the waves are bigger than 1-2ft, paddling out can be really hard. The best thing I've found is to wait for a lull between sets and then paddle your heart out or find a rip current if you can. The push up method works for small stuff and can work in small foam but is ineffective if you get caught in larger stuff. If you're in a really bad spot and a big one is about to crash on your head, the best thing is to turtle roll or ditch your board if nobody is around you. It can be really hard not having the ability to duck dive but learning on a bigger board is 1000% better than trying to learn on a low volume board that you could possibly duck dive. Hope this helps any newbies out there like me🤙
What are the odds, I buy a mini Mal and Kale makes me a video, cheers!
There's a lot of hate on the turtle roll but it's actually the most reliable method when the waves are too big to get over them by just raising your body with a big board. The situation of being upside down under the water is unconfortable at first but you get over it after a few tries. With practice you will get back on the board in no time and also you will learn how to grab your board in a way that reduces the drag of the wave to a minimum. It's a solid method if you know how to do it properly.
Thanks Kale. *subscribed*. Love your hat by the way! What brand is it???
What is the blue foamy board you are riding. It looks good.
got a 9'8" tipster. Best to put weight on nose. Time well ahead of wave and go head down following nose of board. You'll get pushed back a little in faster waves, but you'll get used to surfacing and paddling your ass of to stop. Great Videos, Thanks
thanks Kale! what beach is that? wow
The turtle roll is super effective when the wave is breaking right on you just helps punch through the lip and out the back. While in the impact zone though its not super energy efficient
Good Vid, I haven't been there for about 35 years, but that looks very much like Parsons in SA. Am i completely off the mark ?
Excellent advice 👌
Kale! Love your vids. It would be cool if you took a 9’2-9’6 heavy glassed classic longboard out in the waves rather than a 7 foot foamie. That would be more realistic for us ladies who are managing boards that size!
Thank u for marking a how to duck dive
Nice. 🤙
Just starting surfing again after 8 years from moving away from the beach as a teen and your tips have helped me greatly!! Thank you so much, your the best dude!!
I just put a ton of weight up front and the wave hitting the board helps push it down. I go into a plank position and most of the wave goes on top of the board and underneath me.
And that’s for my 10’2” that’s basically a SUP. And a 9’2” with 65L. And even my
6’8” around 43L.
Buttt out at Haleiwa on a bigger day with a longboard, you just gotta really dig hard between sets and aim for the shoulder.
GREAT contents! Where are those footage filmed, please? It's stunning!!
Looking to surf and camp around Sydney/ South Coast of NSW. Where those drone footages shoot seems like the best location!!
South Australia
For nsw retreats kalebrock.com.au/surf
I always thought I'm just doing it wrong with the turtle roll because it did not feel like the best option 🤣 good to know that even experienced surfers don't like them when they ride bigger boards
They’re not amazing haha
But some experienced surfers are good at it. I think it depends on how much of your experience comes with long boards. And how much the wave calls for that technique.
South Coast looking beautiful
Hi Kale,
You think you can make a video for using a longboard(soft top) on a rough junky day around 2-4 ft waves?
Too specific sorry
Good stuff. One technique i use when trying get through growlers is The Toss.
Instead of bailing, i’ll try tossing or shooting my board over the whitewash or up through the breaking lip then i duck under.
Much better than a full bail with at least a 50/50 chance of having your log near you when breaching.
Sounds pretty dangerous.
Hi Kale! Wow so helpful and concise! Your teaching is very inspiring and clear! So, hey do you have any videos on surfers' nutrition?
Maybe soon
Thank you!
@@KalesBroccoli So I just watched The Longevity Film and maybe found my answer. Also, w-o-w such a well put together film! Thanks for all the research and displaying it so clearly! It kept me very engaged and I even put on the subtitles just so I wouldn't miss a word! ha ha!
Hi Kale, supernice video, but coming from a beach where many inexperienced swimmers and surfers get into trouble by getting caught in rips I would ask you to expand a bit on how to actually use a rip safely.
Thanks! Looking forward to more of your videos!
I thought it probably deserved a video in itself - coming in the future
Awesome :)
Can you do a video on your GoPro surfing setup
yes, please! Took the GoPro today and got completely wiped out hahaha
Hi i tried the technique of ditching my board and dive under the water when there’s a huge wave came, however when I comes out of the water, I saw my board broken into two piece. Why? And its theres any way to avoid that?
I was told I should never ditch my board under any circumstance to avoid injuries once. And now honestly I'm to scared to ditch it I'd rather fill my nose with water.
Where is this video shot?
Hola estaria bien q sea la traducion en español
If you keep trying, eventually you will be able to duckdive bigger boards. I have a 46L board and I can get it trough pretty much everything, it’s just harder. So don’t give up! Keep trying
There is another method you should demonstrate. As you approach an on coming wave you turn the board so it is about 85 degrees rather than 90 degrees to the wave. Just before the wave hits you push down the rail closest to the wave first. You then slice the board under the water leveraging of your back foot/leg furtherest back. The board should be deep now so you aggressively pull your self down on to the board and push it forward to pop out the back. I use this technique to duck dive a 7ft mid length. I weigh 68 kilos.
At last, someone admitting the turtle roll is a terrible idea. I try to punch through smaller waves with the lift technique, good to mention getting up on your toes with it too. Timing is a point you missed, if I'm surfing a beach break in medium period swell, I'll watch the rhythm from the beach and then walk out so the I'm wait deep in the rip holding my board jumping the waves when the set comes through. When that last wave is through it's time for a big effort to be out back before the next set.
I find getting caught inside is about conserving energy. I'll ditch the board when safe and dive deep under approaching waves then make myself into a starfish shape when I start to get pulled into the beach with my board. I'll just stay still and not fight and use O2 as I'll be let go when the wave is finished with me and not much I do is going to make that any sooner.
What about the tilt duck dive? you basically duck dive but tilt a rail so the board has much less resistance in the water sideways. Not totally side ways but like a scooping maneuver
Kale story of my life with the blue Barron.
Now you got it!
hey man, i ride a 9' softech foamie that ive burned myself out on just getting passed the break i saw your video where you are explaining paddle potential, wave catching and a whole variety of other factors as i was on such a big board it alot harder to catch a wave and standing up was also a difficulty as i found that when i stood up i found it to be pretty unstable (that may have simply been me not being mindful of my technique and getting up in a timely manor or something else) im thinking of potentially getting a smaller board that may suit me better but im not sure if the 9' foot board is a solid match given my size and weight 6'1 230 pounds ( 185.42 cm 104.326 kilo's) if you have any advice that would be greatly appreciated!!!!
Everything you’re describing is a combination of inexperience and lack of conditioning. I lived through it for two years when I was first learning to surf. I’m a big guy at 250 and I generally surf 10-6 to 12-foot boards. At the beginning I had plenty of times where I might only be able to catch one wave on a big day because I didn’t have the strength or stamina for a second paddle out. Or I’d have to catch a wave, come out of the water, take 15 minutes to rest and then try again. I even had the awful experience of just plain giving it everything I had for 20 to 30 minutes and still not be able to get out to the lineup.
The key is just to keep at it and at it and at it. Your stamina will improve, your arms will get stronger, you’ll learn better how to read the break (finding rips, timing sets) and use your power more efficiently. Then when you finally do pop up, you won’t be so tired that your legs and stance cause the board to wobble. Expect to have your ego smashed a few hundred times and learn to be humble in the presence of a power far greater than yourself! It’ll give you even more joy when you increasingly find yourself working with the waves instead of against them.
My beginner tip: Walk your board out into the surf as far as you can while maintaining your position by standing on the bottom. It helps you conserve arm strength and gives you a better vantage point from which to judge when a set is starting to ease up. Once you sense a lull, start paddling with a strong, steady cadence and keep powering through as long as you can. My local break has a 200-300 yard paddle out. I used to have to rest two or three times before making it all the way out. Now I know when I’m in really good shape because it’s just one straight shot, even on the big days, when it also includes a series of raises, turtle rolls and maneuvering away from and over the biggest peaks without getting smashed.
What board is that?
Hi, I've been following you since last year and everything in your videos has always been spectacular. The sessions are great, there are several funny moments, your explanations are very clear... this channel is absolutely brilliant and you helped me a lot with the majority of my curiosities about the world of swimming and surfing, thank you so much. Anyway, I would like to make a suggestion (if it's not a problem): I'm convinced that to add a really funny video on your channel, you could make a compilation of all of the moments where you or your friends get "caught" on video while peeing in the water (my uncle relieved himself in a scuba diving session and that was hilarious), it's something like a "oops moments" compilation, what do you think? I'd be so so happy to watch it, let me know, bye!
😅
@@KalesBroccoli I know it looks weird, but I think it would be very funny
Still some good banks down there, tomorrow could be on as well. Had fun there today.
Cheers for the SA content.
Great vid!! Where are you? Looks beautiful location
South Australia
Cheers mate!! Stunning and looks fun!
Ok now I feel better seeing that Kale sucks at the post turtle roll just as much as I do
3:13 Some great swell
Thanks. Another tip: Wait for the lulls!
That’s what I do a lot of the time here in So Cal USA
Which beach is this?
great content.
South Australia
Progressing on longboard and people don’t talk about this enough as I always wonder how pros handle themselves in overhead waves. I use the raise method when it’s small - when it’s big I paddle fast, as the wave hits, i jump off and grab onto the nose / tail and dive as much as i can, works 95% of the time, but have to be cautious when it’s strong otherwise wave might pull your shoulders back.
And am i the only one who can’t do turtle roll because water literally gushes straight into my nose and that hurts like crazy? 😭
Exactly the same for me too and completely agree with being careful with the shoulders - I've had some unexepected power in a couple of waves give my shoulders a bit too much of a sudden pull a few times
Turtle roll works for me, but like you water always rushes up my nose and down my throat. If that didn’t happen I’d use it all the time
I know that turtle roll issue and my nose starts burning after 3-4 turtle rolls but I can promise you: The more you do it, the better your nose gets at keeping the water out. And I'm very sensitive! I belong to people holding my nose when wiping out.😅
My struggle is not with the white water but the wave about to break on you... in line up, comes a set, paddle like a mad man towards the wave, but not always fast enough. If the wave is dumpy, sometimes whatever I do I get sucked into the wave and there goes the washing machine.. also can’t ditch the board because there are people behind...feels like the only solution to that is duck diving?
I found when the wave is about to break I paddle hard to get to the middle of the wave then turtle roll. Make sure you knife the board towards the back of the wave to knife it through.
@@natasdave81 Thanks David.
Paddle very hard. This is a challenge for all surfers on all boards especially when it gets big
Getting worked occasionally is just a reality in surfing, if you dont panic and just hold on to that lovely big piece of foam itll have you on the surface in no time. Dw we've all been there though.
@@KalesBroccoli Thanks Kale!
Duck dive my Walden Majic 9😁😁
Would your partner ever consider doing a video on learning to surf? I haven’t found this on RUclips
Lots of beginner videos on my channel :)
Audible sucks, but this video is great! Thanks!
Noice vid
Unforeseen pain of turtle roll? When the water is sub 6’c it hurts.
Its so stupid but I haven’t been able to duck dive because i hate getting water up my nose. Anyone know how to avoid this?
Blow bubbles out your nose.
Blow air out thru your nose. Just like you would do when swimming underwater.
dude, what are you talking about? 😅 I always turtle roll my 7'2" and I reach the lineup at the same time as my friends who duck dive their shortboards. there simply is more to it than just getting under your board and hoping for the best #kalecantturtleroll 😉
You obviously have an easy break. Not all breaks are easy. Hardly!
@@ceeweedsl Of course not. Turtle rolls are really hard to pull off if the waves are hollow. That's because they might land on the tail of your board if you don't get the timing exactly right. Proper technique is to force the tail up by kicking it with your feet and holding on to the nose. This directs the white water over the board. If the tail is low and the nose is up the white water gets under your board and turns it into kind of a catapult if you don't let go (been there, done that). So yeah, the brake plays a role here and there are limits. But there is proper technique and that technique will get you to the back in far bigger brakes than the one Kale showed here.
@@espresso2stay Yep, I was just sayin'....but thanks for your input. I'm not quite getting the tip on kicking the tail UP when underneath the board unless you are talking about issues with a late turtle roll. But I'll try it out ! But yep, our break here is hollow and believe me, the shortboarders will definitely beat me out and not even get tired. I usually make it out by waiting for the best lull and then using various techniques as described - cutting through the top of the wave and sitting immediately to dig in the tail is one that works when it's the last wave to beat. Another technique that serves me on hollow waves well is paddling for the wave's peak and then rolling up high to bring the board over the top of the wave as I cut through it with my body. Sort of a superficial turtle roll. Board is mostly in the air. Definitely a hollow wave trick.
@@ceeweedsl I couldn't find the video that got me to always kick the tail. I think there are really two reasons to do it though: 1) it makes the nose go deeper into the water with you're hands kind of acting as hinges. therefore the white water will mostly go over the bottom and even create some forward momentum 2) talking about momentum, the kicking motion will also carry the body into a near perpendicular position under the board, again with the hands acting as hinges. not sure if the body then acts as an anchor but being perpendicular certainly helps to get back on the board quickly. It's really important that getting to the surface, flipping the board and getting back on really are a single motion. But yeah, with all that said, waiting for a lull is still best :D
@@espresso2stay Excellent! Thanks for the details. I do the stab and it's not hard. I have not been getting vertical enough though so the kick may be the key. And yep, a smooth continuous roll back onto the board is important to keep momentum up. Don't know why Kale doesn't show it done that way. Floundering afterwards is just a weak execution of the roll, not how it's done.
It's easier to do the rocket ship on a bigger board 8 foot+
nice thumbnail