Don't Be This Surfer
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- It's hard enough to learn how to surf, but you also have to become an ocean expert. These are some of my favorite tips to put you in the right spot to make your life so much easier. Positioning yourself to catch a wave is a huge skill that is often overlooked. Enjoy!
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Brian James
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Pro Tip #2. When you find your landmark on the beach, if you’re really far from the landmark, you can be off left or right sometimes 20-30 yards and not even know it. Try finding a 2nd landmark directly behind your main landmark and you know you’ll be in perfect left/right alignment.
That is brilliant! That's how golfers find their golf balls as well.
Well the real way to set your point of take off is TRIANGULATION…two separate marks and then where your point is..
That’s freaken genius! I was wondering about that. You would be surprised at how far off some peoples ‘alignment’ will be. They’ll swear they’re straight in a line with what ever and I’m like “dude you’re 30 degrees off to the left”! 😂😂
Yeah when you triangulate yourself best thing to do is pick two points of reference vertical and horizontal that way you know at all times if you're out of position
Ooh I like this!
Haha love all this! The worst when you see everyone else paddle over the wave and they start scratching ferociously, and you know you're about to cop a set on the head 😂
lol yes absolutley!!
So relatable 😮
Haha, yes
@@LongboardSessions I love your wetsuit, where did u get it from?
What does this mean? Very new to surf lingo
The expense of a surfboard is a barrier for most people. The expense of a thick full body wet suit might coast you more than the board. Surfing expensive. But don't even think about skiing/snowboarding if you can't afford surfing. PS, I am a broke ass loser.
You don’t have to buy a new board or wetsuit, you can find cheap boards at swap meets, pawn shops, or in surf shops. The best board I ever had, was a used Wave Tools twin, that had about 5 inches of the nose chopped off. My friend had the fiberglass cloth and resin and chopped the nose off a really old crappy board, that we shaped and sanded to match the WT twin. So finding really good boards that need a little repair is a great way to buy a good cheap board.
I’ve never bought a new board… new nice wetsuit can be found on sale for $2-300. The barrier to entry of surfing isn’t the cost, it’s having to paddle out past the break
@@MrMcsoccer20 When I started surfing back when I was a little kid, I didn’t have a wetsuit for more than a year. If you want to surf bad enough and and are stoked, cold is not a barrier that will stop you, unless the water temp is in the 50’s.
@@MrMcsoccer20 "The barrier to entry of surfing isn’t the cost, it’s having to paddle out past the break" I could not agree with that more. I grew up surfing in central Florida. I moved to Atlanta for 20 years. Never sold my board. Moved back to the beach, but now I'm old, and paddling out to the line up almost kills me.
No you’re not a loser, you just got to find your niche! 2:16
This microphone thing in the water is game changer. Have never seen it before. You can even do a live stream on your board !!!!! Love it
yea I love it! Iv'e thought about live streaming, but with my current setup it wouldn't work. I'd need close to 10k in equipment to get that done hehe
@@LongboardSessions when Periscope was new - a guy was streaming from his BodyBoard using an iPhone in a Waterproof case.
1. When you paddle out, keep paddling. I'll tell you when to stop once you're out of earshot.
lol
Just surfed for the first time in Waikiki a couple days ago at 48 y/o. So fun. Had a great instructor. Can't wait to do it again.
oh thats awesome!! I'd love to surf there one day
BONUS TIP: One other thing i’ve learned over the years at beach breaks is when you paddle out and your unsure of where to sit take note if a series of in between set waves consistently stand up a little shallower but in line with where you are sitting since it is often a sign of a sand bar. This was a huge game changer for spots even like lower trestles being a reef break (you’d know if you surfed it) when the waves at times would swing wide or the peak would shift slightly, but it is often that the smaller waves just before a set generally indicate what the rest of the set is doing. Its also important that you consider tidal shifts, swell direction (especially new swell directions), and also being able to read the horizon and understand that waves on the horizon may look like they’re heading your way from a novice point of view when they are actually heading to a direction more the right or left hand side of you. If you are a total beginner first learn to stand up then apply this trick and you can hone in your surfing skills by means of a surf skate and practicing poping up before every session. I still do this especially on the more hollow days. Definitely dont want to miss those dreamers
dude, this video is EXTREMELY good
Thanks so much Howard!
Good advice. Especially about watching other surfers’ body language. When the waves are breaking super soft like they were in the first spot, sometimes your only bet is to catch the soup and then head for the shoulder. Also, pay attention to the number of waves in each set of a particular swell and which wave in the sets tends to be the best one-that also helps in that when you can’t see the set and you’re reacting to other surfers’ body language and there’s frantic chaos….you can make some assumptions about whether or not you need to just go for (for example) wave number two because the sets are tend to not have more than two or three waves. Or maybe there are about five waves in each set, then if, let’s say, a big set comes and you want to chase down the biggest one maybe you you know that wave 4 or 5 tend to be the biggest and you consider targeting those waves-that said, it’s a good philosophy to take most good waves that give themselves to you instead of being a gambler all the time.
Ah very well said. I go for the side of taking the wave that is given to you rather than risk an outside, but of course i've been guilty of that as well. Counting the set waves is also great advice!
When you paddle your little heart out to no avail 😢💔
So depressing! For the record, you caught a lot of waves that day. I just happened to pick that example... that's what happens when you're friends with me I guess. Enjoy that sweet sweet cold cold air boy
@@LongboardSessions you know I can take it 😤💪
I never even saw a wave I just sat in the water it was the worst ever. SF/
Teasers not pleasers.
Brilliant, mic in the water can be the next big trend for surf coaches 😂 really great work man!
haha maybe!! Thanks
Surfing, like all sports should be taught in schools and a funded community activity. Sports give people an outlet and makes them feel part of something. The impact on society would be amazing
Love it! The way students are taught now needs a complete overhaul. Adding some more technical skills plus a focus on toughening kids up through gym and sports would be a start haha!
Your surfing is looking heaps more relaxed these days, man. 👍
wow thanks so much! I feel way more relaxed, i'm glad it's transferring into my surfing
I would rather be the surfer where I was too far forward on the board and the wave crashes on my head, then just missing wave after wave, and being on the back of the board.
The reason being is that the surfer that is too far forward has courage and is going down the face of the wave with some guts where the person on the back of the board and missing wave after wave has fear.
Anyway that's my input.
Trolls reply below.
Yea theres some truth to that for sure. But both parties in this case need to work on their takeoff haha!
@@LongboardSessions courage and guts is a big part of surfing, and a lot of people see the videos and they think oh I want to surf and then they just don't have the courage and guts.
Or it's a gut check and they have to get it.
If you miss a wave on a longboard, check yourself into hospice.
Now this made me laugh lol
Be conscious of the crowd and who is out there with you. Starting to notice a lot of beginners in cali going to intermediate spots. These guys like to turn and paddle for EVERY wave that comes through, even if there are way better surfers already in position or that have been waiting longer
Instead of putting your head down and paddling for every wave that comes through, you should probably sit a little inside and watch what the better surfers are doing. I'm pretty good myself but I'll still gauge the crowd, stay out of advanced surfers' way and sometimes won't go out at that spot if I don't see guys around my skill level catching waves.
Just my 2-cents because I see a lot of beginners watch these positioning tips videos, then they go out paddling around/ past other surfers for waves and don't realize that its disrespectful to do
Well said. I have another video that sorta explains this exact thing. If you are a beginner, best to stay in the beginner spots. It will help you so much more! Trying to head to the more intermediate spots will only make other people mad and you won't get nearly as much practice.
Half of surfing really is reading the ocean and understanding where to sit in the lineup, and where the sweet spot is. Its now second nature to me, but I don't take it for granted because my wave count is often much higher than a lot of other people in the lineup. I'm not trying to be a wave hog, I just understand where to be.
100%! And nothing helps more than time in the ocean as well. We can all watch as many youtube videos as we want, but it doesn't help if you're not getting in there
Lol...where was youtube when I was learning back in the mid 70's? haha. This is a fantastic resource for people wanting to learn. Well done sir. Your point of sitting and watching is an underrated part of learning to surf. It is a critical part of learning and understanding "wavecraft".
Yes haha! RUclips wasn't around till I was 18 or so, so I get what youre saying. Quite nice easily finding help
To draw a line you need 2 points. This is basic geometry. To find a point you need 2 lines. That's surveying.
I'm not going to reveal anything else. 😉
yes! Especially if you wnat to be accurate
position is everything, there are days that the waves make fun of you, too far to the right, too far to the left, too under, too out. every ride into the wall is a victory!
Yes exactly!
Always wanted to try surfing but always so scared of sharks! How do y’all deal with this unknown knowing there’s always the possibility lurking??
You ignore it! It's one of those illogical fears I believe. Well, not illogical, shark attacks do occur. But we also all just drive on the highway with 2 ton hunks of metal flying 70 mph. That's way more dangerous. But yea I totally get the fear haha! IGNORE IT!!
Great little surf video. Thanks for your pointers. 🏄♂️🤙🤙
You got it!! thanks
Where is that beach? The water looks disgusting. Greyish brown murkiness. No way I would be getting in there for a couple of reasons.
Monnouth county! Water is fine😀
Great video and it reminds me of New England surf
Thanks!!
Absolutely observe observe observe,,,as Hawaiian children 1st thing culturally was to observe for hours the tides, what's around etc. have a relationship 1st with Ocean, tides, current, winds,, your sounding like a Aina person... Awesome waves too great improvement
Yes absolutley! Gotta learn the ocean and how things work
Does this still apply for getting into short boards? I can ride on long boards like this video but I can’t catch waves on a short
Yes absolutley, but short boards do require you to catch the wave much later as the face gets steeper. So you use these same techniques, but position yourself differently
Thank you, Brian you and Ben Cousidine Have been a great help for me
You have a nice intelligent and fun way to approach surfing
In the future, I’m sure we will see you like a great influencers for surfers all over the world and the wingnut said
“Dedicated to those who surf with a smile” in his movie the “Art of Long boarding” that this spirit
Everyone should know that sharing the wave and enjoy is what is all about!
Thanks so much!! Yes well said, it's all about having fun
Love your RUclipss!
Here's an idea that's never been covered by anyone. Pop ups and tips for a tall, long legged surfer like myself. Say 6'5". I'm always envious of your effortless pop ups. Try adding 10 to 12 " extensions to your tib fib bones! I'm not that good but love the knowledge that you give to others.
haha thanks so much! Well I'm on the other end of the spectrum at 5'4" so not so sure I can give you good advice on that one haha! Bigger board may help quite a bit.
no leg rope anymore?????
Most of the time I don't use it!
I'm paddling out early Saturday morning (spring lake), and I hear a familiar laugh. I look to my left and there is Brian and Andrew in living color. I've watched all of you videos multiple times. You and Ben have the best instructional videos out there. I love you humor and ability to relate your knowledge. Keep them coming. You help many. It was great to meet you!! Maybe a tutorial on long legged tall people pop ups one day. I stood next to you and the top of my legs come to you armpits. Fact - most tall people have trouble with pop ups. Maybe tall Devon Howard has some tips.
It was so nice to meet you Ken! They can hear that laugh from China haha! Yea I hear you, I imagine the pop up is tougher for taller people. Next time we surf together I'll have a look at what your doing and see If I can offer some advice!
Fun Video!
Thanks!
Great descriptions of hunting.
I was trying not to laugh - I do stand up paddle surf, so sometimes I see what the surfers don't.
They will try to pick my brain on what I'm seeing out deep but I have learned to do casual conversation and then ,
I paddle like a mad dog to catch that wave
haha gotta keep the valuable information to yourself!
😂😂😂
to correctly marking a position you should take two references at different distances and keep them aligned. This is what they teach at navigation school. it's extremely precise, I use it both for x and y axes and always place me right where I want to be. One point, expecially far from the shore can be confusing
That's great advice! Way more precise for sure
Brian I love your work. So down to earth. Thanks for all the tips.
All the best from Denmark 🇩🇰
Thanks so much!! Love making these videos
Explain “taking a late wave” thanks for your fun surfing videos I love your happy attitude..KellyB Sebastian Florida 😊
Taking a late wave means the wave is nearly breaking on your head while your taking off. So ideally, i would have caught and been up and riding well before the wave broke. But sometimes, you have to take it "late", meaning you should have been farther out and caught it earlier. I hope that helps
That was me when I started surfing. Im certain no surfer started out a Pro.🤡✌🏻🍻
Exactly.. everyone starts in the same place
Those on the tail and keep your head up high.
This is great, I'm glad I found your channel
Awesome! glad to have you hehe
Spot on. Best description & real time explanation of what to do in a surf session. In Waikiki, you gotta watch out for so many tourists. Waikiki has got trick waves, sandy bottom. Looks like waves will break, crest, but it flattens out and breaks further inshore. With a reef bottom or reef created waves, further east or west of Waikiki, you'll have a consistent place within which to catch the waves. Except the big one. Every few sets of waves, generally, there's a big one. Everyone frantically paddles out to catch um.
Awesome thanks!! Oh man I can imagine. Not much variety when it comes to shoreline here hehe.. just sand bottom beach breaks
ONE MORE BONUS TIP: Regarding the idea of landmarks you can also use a coordinate system where you use objects not only behind you but on your left and right hand side. For inctance pick a palm tree or building on the beach behind you and then to your left or right use a rock jutting out of a headland at the end of the bay or a pylon on a pier. Anything works so long as you can quickly identify angle changes when the current takes you so often narrow of warped objects work best.
Yes that would work great!!
Such a nice video!!!!!! Greetings from Spain!
thanks so much!!
If you cant catch a wave on a longboard , you really need help
Hey,,, you might have a point. Unless you're a beginner of course hehe
The microphone quality is amazing!
Could you share what mic is it that you[re using?
Thanks!! It's a zoom f2 (using the mic that came with it).
@@LongboardSessions Appreciate the reply!
Love your content and the quality of production, and hope you can keep up the great work you're doing (and have an awesome time while you're at it!)
that´s a really good tutorial for beginners or rookies. nice to watch and well explained. thx mate
Thanks!! You got it
Great video for many of us just getting back into the waves, also like the mic'd up sessions to get your thought process in the moment. Surfing aside, nice video camera equipment and setup there.
Excellent! haha yea it's a pretty nice set up. surprisingly not that expensive either! Who knew that the tripod / head was the most important part haha
ur, the first guy I've heard saying this but man are u right. I've been doing it for years, and ur right it's a window on what u can't see yet....
Yes! Helps so much
Another thing is what I call the "Indicator", the foam on the water shows where the wave is breaking. 🏄
Oh yes!
I use that a lot here on the reefs off San Diego. The foam will actually for a triangular shape (pointy end at the peak and wide end toward the shore). Stay just on the outside edge of the foam. That's were the last wave(s) broke, and highly likely where the next one will roll through.
Unique video! Definitely gotta be on the hunt when it comes to beach breaks
yes for real! Watch the best surfers in the world and see how much they move around on beach breaks
Well done Liam, nice little laugh at the end!
haha ! I'll relay the message
the trick is get a 11ft board
Well there you go. Solves most problems haha
Great tips. I'm 55 and had my first surf lesson last Sunday here in New Zealand. Hooked already.
oh that's awesome! You're in a great place for it as well
Ten minutes from Hahei and Hot water beach. Coromandel peninsula.
Secrets should stay secret. There are ways to get every wave but you should be generous if you know them. 🦗
Great tips for a brand new UK longboarder. Many thanks.
Awesome, you got it!
Your surfing has really improved in the year I’ve been watching you, great job!
wow thanks so much!! getting there
Hey...I love your show. You would rip on a traditional straight backed keel/ San Diego traditional fish. Larry Mabile or Chris Christenson....they are the closest thing to a log. And a glider...Michael Miller, Josh Hall, Chris Christenson, and last but not least Bob Mitzven. Ride those and you won't really need a log anymore...or a mini glider from Bob Mitzven because you are smaller
OH sweet! I for sure want some of those boards lol
Does that mustache cause drag for you? lol
You know it!
Great video and surfing-you are really getting good at both!
Thanks so much! Really having tons of fun surfing these days. Getting a new board soon too.. that's gonna be fun
Great stuff bro i always enjoy watching ur content
Thanks man!
😂😂👍🐒
Excellent video and tips bro.🤙
Thanks!!
How many ft is your board? 😊
9'6"
That is so cool. I have never heard this before. We just learned it kinda like sex. Lol thanks
great video, fundamental tips!
Thanks!!
Your production has gotten so much better! love these subtiles in the ocean
Thanks so much! Well, putting those sub titles there was sooooo annoying haha. If you notice, the sub titles actually track with me as I move. It's a plugin for my editing program, but it slows down my computer quite a bit. Once I get a new comp it wil be easy hehe
@@LongboardSessions It looks great! visually pleasing. big fan of your journey btw! I've been a subscriber since 2 years ago! your videos have helped me a lot! My turns and nose riding have improved. thank you for sharing the stoke!!
Nice video, and thanks, but none of this works on a foggy day at OB in SF. Sometimes the fog is so thick you will end up a mile down the beach from where you paddled out. It's a bitchin' freezing cold long walk back with a 10 ft board. The line up is the most important though on a clear day. Get your landmarks front and side. But remember, sand bars are always shifting. As for the hunting wave tip, well you might paddle to where you saw it breaking, and then you get there and it breaks back where you just paddled from. Wish I had a penny for every time that happened to me. Another very important thing for low level or beginners is if you become frustrated because you are not catching waves, paddle back to the beach and sit there watching for 5 mins and then paddle back out. Oh yeah, and never blame and curse the ocean...............it's YOUR fault no matter what happens out there.
haha yes! Iv'e surfed OB before.. quite a current! Fun wave tho. All very well said
you just eased dropped on half my conversations in my head when i am surfing:)!!! Great information.
haha! That's basically what I'm doing when I'm mic'd up. Everything going on in my head I just try to speak it .. it's weird lol
THE BEST WAY to find your set point is called TRIANGULATION…..and it doesn’t work with beach breaks..only points
Hmm interesting! I'm not a regular point break surfer. Iv'e never heard that term before hehe
Great video! This is the hardest part to learn,and probably the hardest to teach since you never see good videos on it. Brothas doing the lords work!
Love the mic out on the water!! How’d you do that??
thanks!! Slightly complicated haha, but basically I waterproofed the mic itself and through the recorder in a waterproof bag.
@@LongboardSessions dang, props!
This is the problem with cold water surfing. It's about waiting for the one opportunity to catch a great wave because you must save your energy for that perfect ride. The thick, burdensome wetsuits help, but they sap all your paddling strength too. So, the session becomes one of mental engineering to get the job done, not extended playfulness.
Hmm I don't quite have this experience, but I understand some do. Wetsuit doesn't bother me tbh. I think the longboard helps for sure
Sounds great for where you are. Cant find any breaks that empty where I live. Looks cold though, we don’t wear wetsuits
Well that's one of the perks over here, pretty easy to find empty waves. But oh the cold.... haha
All good information, a process that I also used is count the waves in a set while on the beach. It usually consistence at least in Hawaii and reef break spots; not always the case in sand breaks. It was usually 9 waves to a set and after the last wave breaks is a good time paddle like crazy to get in the line up. Your thoughts?
yes that's a great idea. You're right, not as consistent here, but still worth doing.
The worst thing is doing this wave hunt on a crowded day at a good wave spot. Everyone will change position to get the next breaking peak and you usually have 100+ people on the inside paddling out or on short boards on the inside.
My best waves are caught on less crowded days in 3-4 foot offshore on a weekday when everyone else is at work. You need that space not just to catch clean faces but to negotiate take off without loads of people on the inside both left and right.
It can be frustrating to take off on a clean lip, trim into the face and have to bail because there are loads of folks on the inside.
Patients is key as well as being in the perfect spot to catch the peak and early wave entry is crucial for set up.
I find that if you paddle with speed early into a face, drop in at an angle left or right depending on the wave and stall your pop up for just a second or two so your down the line even before pop up you will get that ride. It may seem counter intuitive to not pop up straight away but a little Patients will get you down the line.
I also an older surfer so my pop up isn't swift so the patients when popping up is helpful.
If your in trim with the face before full pop up your halfway there to a good wave.
Oh yea, a crowded lineup is not easy to deal with. Quite different than what I'm used to. Patients is the key !
Nice thumbnail!
Thanks! Hardest part of the whole video tbh
Great video. Felt like I've had the same conversations with myself out there.
Something I find really helpful that you touched on is gauging the ability of surfers around you. Following the body language and positioning of surfer above or below your skill level can lead to some tricky situations.
For example, when surfing everyone's favorite inlet south of you, I notice some trying to match the position of the local rippers waiting for the sets. Since they don't have the paddle power or instinct for hunting peaks, they end up sitting more than surfing. Conversely, I've seen a whole line up get washed out because the guy in front didn't react.
I think the biggest takeaway from your video is to be observant. Humans love patterns and we absorb a lot more info than we think.
Woah well said! Funny enough Iv'e seen exactly what you've described. Iv'e had friends follow me around in the water, only to never catch any waves. Ten feet left or right can make all the difference, so if I'm putting myself in the right spot and you're following me, you will not be in the right spot. So part if it is learning on your own where to be. Looking at other surfers just helps knowing what's coming if you're currently blinded by a set wave.
Love your helpful videos. Quick question: are you Mocca Joe?
Thanks!! Haha nope!
Let the ocean tell you what it's doing.
Biggest fundamental mistake is to predetermine what a wave will/should do.
Theres truth to that
Great video!
Thanks Maddie!
I like how much you emphasized observation. These are all very good pointers! Thank you 🙏 ❤
Awesome thanks!
Positioning on the board is everything too far forward you nose dive too far back, it passes you up. I like to be a little bit forward on it until you know you got it and then jump up.
So true! Makes all the difference
What mic are you using, please? Great vid, thx.
Thanks!! Zoom f2
We’re is this beach
Monmouth County!
What beach is this?
Monmouth County!
I really needed this! Thank you so much! This video helped me a lot!
awesome, great to hear!!
Where is this beach
Monmouth county
You can pop up to your knees or your feet briefly while paddling out to see what's ahead. 🤙
Yes I do that occasionally. I've stood on my board quickly before haha!
Awesome vid!
Thanks!!
The TRIME line 😊 surf is all about fun , never forget thx à lot for all thé laugh 😂😂😂
Absolutley! You got it
Really like the mic’d up approach for real time tips. Please do more!
Awesome!! Yes will do!
Catch it ahead of the break
Your right be on a sponge
So nice the camera man was your son. Xxxx
Wave positioning is easily the hardest part of learning how to surf. Once I stand up on the board and nail the turn it's all gravy but finding that spot is so difficult, especially since every time I surf it's been years since I last tried on the ocean.
Oh yes for sure. That's why surfing is not an easy thing to learn, but super rewarding
Nice demonstration. Very poor teaching of concepts and techniques.
The single most important thing to catching a wave is PADDLING. Not just "paddle harder" or "paddle faster."
I wish I could teach this guy how to "teach" because I'm not gonna make videos to do it myself. He makes nice clips with quality equipment. But he's not teaching beginners how to become novices.....
I've taught hundreds of people who had never surfed before how to CATCH waves. It's all about controlling the pitch of the board....
Oh well...
Good luck.
I did tap the thumbs up 👍 button to feed the algorithm monsters.
haha well thanks for the thumbs up!
@LongboardSessions
When paddling... feet above calves are vertical with feet above knees.
When the right arm goes forward, the left foot does, too. The, when the left arm goes right foot does. Just like walking. You don't walk with your arms at your side. You don't paddle dragging your feet.
Also.... Your feet are ballast. It is VITAL when catching a wave to control the tip/nose of the board. To raise and lower the tip, the feet are moved while paddling. To push the nose down, move the feet over the buttock... but STILL alternating movement coordinating with opposite arms with each stroke.
To raise the nose, lower the feet closer to the water. Advanced surfers will lower their feet into the water... but NOT dragging. They'll do it to kick the water like a swimmer.
When catching a wave.....
You start with the feet over the buttock trying to push the nose tip down to get down the face of the wave. But... not so far down that you submerge the nose. This is called pearling. This will stop your forward motion.
As you start to pick up speed from faster paddling AND the wave starting to pull you down the face.... you start to shift your feet back to raise the nose. Thus using feet as ballast. Your head is ALSO ballast. You raise and lower your head to aid in controlling nose height.
Most beginners are not going to understand this write-up well enough to apply it in a practical manner. But.... You are. I suggest you take these concepts, study the way beginners, intermediate, and advance surfers paddle....and make a demonstration video. If you do, you will be theee ONLY one on RUclips with the BEST explanation of HOW to paddle faster when paddling out and catching waves.
If you paddle faster, you get out easier. You save energy for longer surf sessions. If you use better techniques while catching waves... You catch more waves. When you miss waves.... other surfers are less likely to give you future opportunities.
Lastly....
When riding.... as a beginner..... Leaning forward is the gas. Leaning backwards is the breaks.
MOMMMM. Longboard sessions just dropped a new video
haha!!
how far out landmarks are also super important to make sure your not in a stealthy rip
Wave position is about knowledge and being in paddle shape
Nothing beats time in the water!
Atlantic Ocean???
Yes sir!
Looks like the Rhode Island break I
Positioning is definitely my biggest problem, like I’m either too far in or too far out I can’t find that sweet spot. Or I’m always too close to the break or too far from where I’m supposed to be
Honestly, it's not an easy task. A lot of it comes down to time in the water. However, use the tips in this video and you will find yourself in better spots more often. Always know where you are, never just drift!
Every wave is different some will be bombs out the back and others won’t, you need to see the wave coming and react then paddle to its peak or shoulder. If your not your just relying on the perfect chance the wave is on you and your at the perfect spot
You might also pay attention to 'the rythem of the waves'. Notice the pattern. Here in SoCal the pacific serves up waves say every 10 or 12 seconds (on average). But far out at sea those waves are organizing them selves. Powerful swells gobble up the weeker ones adding to thier power. This phenomenon produces bigger sets. Those roll through every 10 to 12 minutes. -- the point is, observe the pattern (it's as predictable as math). It will help you position for the better waves. And, be patient (my personal nemises!). The perfect wave is worth waiting for.