When I first started surfing, I spent 2 years without some of this crucial info. After a Hawaiian friend Sat me down on the beach & broke it down (very similarly to this video) my surfing exploded. Suddenly I was in the line up & getting real waves instead of the reform on the inside. A couple years ago, I shared this same info with my son & he does so much better in the water now. Sharing this video with him for our next trip.
So I've been surfing about three years and can hold my own in pretty daunting conditions, yet I've learned a new perspective from this video, cheers mate!
Watching this and your other videos of waves as a painter...can never observe enough to learn of the anatomy of waves and many ... Alot to learn....having a better understanding of the anatomy of waves will make one a better painter. ..remember it's a never ending learning process... Beginners get the basics down....then choose your subject..and keep at it... The late painter of the sea...E. John Robinson would so love to see today's generation how they film the ocean waves..... Be safe out there ....
Add to these the ability to understand currents/rips and how they can be used to your advantage. One of the key differences between an ok surfer and a good surfer
A very nice video Surf Rat. I just want to add that the wave will break when the amplitude is 1.5 times the depth of the water (in front of the wave). So on a flat day, put on your goggles and survey the ocean bottom, and you'll know where the take off spots are. Pick out some reference points on land. This is a "trick of the trade" knowledge for competitive surfers. This is why some surfers always seem to be in the right spot. Cheers!
Great video! I learned so much and have infinite more to learn. The relationship between the surface and the bottom is a game changer. Looking forward to more videos from you. Thank you! 🙏🏽
I'm from New York and I've never surfed before but I want to learn so bad! I'll be taking surfing lessons this summer. Thanks for this video! Learned a lot!
Dude cool explanation, ive lived hawaii all my life, we learned to read the ocean also, you make total scense just you broke it down in science , I've never heard it explained that way...... awesome ......I SUBSCRIBED😁👍🤙🤙🌊🌊
Yeah man awesome video! I’m from Mexico and last month I lived on my near surf spot (made my surf quarantine over there) catch some good waves but I knew that I had to learn and understand more the ocean and the wave reading... now I’m back at home no ocean here just MTB and I miss the ocean A LOT! Looking at your video brought me that ocean feeling and I could understand better the wave breaking and current... Saludos desde Mexico If you want to surf here we have nice pipelines...🤙🔥🔥🔥
Very interesting. 2:45 in -- swell from the South-West, so you are over in W.A. Or (from your accent), West coast of North Island N.Z. perhaps? Great tips for someone like me who's only done amateur body surfing.
I didn't think South Island's West coast had any beaches but I guess it's possible. Ditto, Tasmania. So maybe those or a Pacific island? (can't think of anywhere else for a SW swell...unless maybe South Africa?? but you said I was getting close) Cheers. I was looking at the surf today (I'm far south coast NSW) taking in what your videos said, and I could see the features. Another good spot for getting waves seems to me to be on a (submerged) sand spit heading basically straight out from the beach (seems a good thing to avoid rips too).
Part 2 should be when to go left or right and how fast a wave peels based on its slope. Part 3 should be reading sections ahead of you while you're on the wave.
Cheers surf rat! Lil review for me of what I kind of know already but also I haven't surfed in years and I'm very glad I subscribed to your channel. :)
Your videos are fucking amazing. The tone of your voice, the pacing the education and highlights. Thank you so much. I've been starting to look at a lot of surf videos but you are the first channel I will subscribe to.
It can be really hard sometimes, but usually, if you are looking out to sea as the wave is approaching you, parts of the wave will be tall, and others will be short, the tall parts will break first and move toward the short parts...good luck, and apologies for the late reply!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
As a life long surfer I knew all of this but I never had it presented in one short package like this. Very clear and to the point.
When I first started surfing, I spent 2 years without some of this crucial info. After a Hawaiian friend Sat me down on the beach & broke it down (very similarly to this video) my surfing exploded. Suddenly I was in the line up & getting real waves instead of the reform on the inside.
A couple years ago, I shared this same info with my son & he does so much better in the water now. Sharing this video with him for our next trip.
U must have watched The North Shore movie!
can you tell us what did they teach you?
@@lucasvelez5955 when the wave breaks here dont be there or ya gonna get drilled
@@ilitimotek come to hawaii and ask locals. they know everything
Awesome video, reading the waves can be one of the hardest bits to surfing, and you explained it perfectly. Thanks and keep it up
Probably the first video every beginner surfer or any one going into the drink should watch.
4:16 when someone touches their fingertips together like this, I listen with undivided attention.
The wind only blows offshore when I'm in work. Fact 😞
Yep as soon as I get off it turns onshore!
you must live in HB too :/
As a beginner surfer this was such a helpful video.
So I've been surfing about three years and can hold my own in pretty daunting conditions, yet I've learned a new perspective from this video, cheers mate!
Cool video man! As a dude who lives in the desert and just bought a surfboard, it’s a steep steep learning curve.
oh yes, but a satisfying one. Don't forget you can surf into your 70s at least!
I used to live in the hi-desert but then me and my family moved to slo in 2018 , so I’ve been able to surf a lot lately
😅
Watching this and your other videos of waves as a painter...can never observe enough to learn of the anatomy of waves and many ...
Alot to learn....having a better understanding of the anatomy of waves will make one a better painter. ..remember it's a never ending learning process...
Beginners get the basics down....then choose your subject..and keep at it...
The late painter of the sea...E. John Robinson would so love to see today's generation how they film the ocean waves.....
Be safe out there ....
I don't even surf and find this interesting as can be. Thanks for a great to-the-point video man.
I'm glad he clarified because I thought that was a desert, and it was sandy and dry
What a fantastic video! So clear and concise. Thank you.
I’m so happy I’ve found you and this channel. Very healthy sense of humour too. So informative thank you
This video helped me out so much when I started surfing. Crazy how much info there is to take away still
Add to these the ability to understand currents/rips and how they can be used to your advantage. One of the key differences between an ok surfer and a good surfer
yep! this is covered a bit in my video on paddling and getting out the back
This was actually rich on information and very helpful!
Really good video dude. Just started surfing this explains a lot in 5 mins
Nice vid, learnt a lot in 5 mins!
A very nice video Surf Rat. I just want to add that the wave will break when the amplitude is 1.5 times the depth of the water (in front of the wave). So on a flat day, put on your goggles and survey the ocean bottom, and you'll know where the take off spots are. Pick out some reference points on land. This is a "trick of the trade" knowledge for competitive surfers. This is why some surfers always seem to be in the right spot. Cheers!
Great video! I learned so much and have infinite more to learn. The relationship between the surface and the bottom is a game changer.
Looking forward to more videos from you.
Thank you! 🙏🏽
this video is so great in its lessons, editing and video making
Thank you bro! Great video! Love from Brazil!
Really instructive, thanks for this great video
"16 seconds and above is worth breaking promises for" haha. Great video! :)
Great stuff... added to my bookmarks.
Great video. Thank you so much
I'm from New York and I've never surfed before but I want to learn so bad! I'll be taking surfing lessons this summer. Thanks for this video! Learned a lot!
Look into Skudin Surf Long Beach NY 🤙🏄 I like their green light session....
Enjoy
Very well explained!! Thank you guys, keep doing great videos like this one!
Great video dude been surfing for 20 years and I learnt something...
Very useful video! Thanks
This is a great video, thank you very much for making it! Subscribed and really looking forward to the rest of your content
Dude cool explanation, ive lived hawaii all my life, we learned to read the ocean also, you make total scense just you broke it down in science , I've never heard it explained that way...... awesome ......I SUBSCRIBED😁👍🤙🤙🌊🌊
Really nice video, thanks!
Thanks so very much for sharing your knowledge friend, you’re kind to do so and helping a guy out. 🤙 🌊
Excellent presentation
Thank you for the great video!
Great video! Very informative and easy to follow
Thanks for sharing your wisdom! Very scientific. So cool!
My favorite topic, now my favorite video on the topic. Thank you for what you're doing!!! Cheers!
This is so good I want MOORE THEORY!!😍
Yeah man awesome video! I’m from Mexico and last month I lived on my near surf spot (made my surf quarantine over there) catch some good waves but I knew that I had to learn and understand more the ocean and the wave reading... now I’m back at home no ocean here just MTB and I miss the ocean A LOT! Looking at your video brought me that ocean feeling and I could understand better the wave breaking and current...
Saludos desde Mexico
If you want to surf here we have nice pipelines...🤙🔥🔥🔥
Orale wey!
great video! thank you
Great vid man
I mean...you CAN surf closeouts. ;)
say, what's a "rio.s"??
Eric Outram I thought so....Absolutely awesome and thanks!
only bodyboarders would surf it!
that's how I got really good at late takeoffs
Great video.
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Dang son, the surprising eloquence blew me away! Sick video and super informative. Subscribed!
great video mate, thanks !
This video is exactly what I was looking for
🙏😁
Great video.
Will this work for snowboarding? Asking for a blind tricycle rider
Very interesting. 2:45 in -- swell from the South-West, so you are over in W.A. Or (from your accent), West coast of North Island N.Z. perhaps? Great tips for someone like me who's only done amateur body surfing.
I like your detective work, you're getting close.... but that spot it in neither of those places. Keep your ear to the ground my man!
I didn't think South Island's West coast had any beaches but I guess it's possible. Ditto, Tasmania. So maybe those or a Pacific island? (can't think of anywhere else for a SW swell...unless maybe South Africa?? but you said I was getting close) Cheers. I was looking at the surf today (I'm far south coast NSW) taking in what your videos said, and I could see the features. Another good spot for getting waves seems to me to be on a (submerged) sand spit heading basically straight out from the beach (seems a good thing to avoid rips too).
Superbly done! Concise & honest. Thank You!
Obi wan help me shred you are my only hope!
such an amazing explanation! thank you
Awesome vid-really helpful and clear cheers
Great video. Professional and relevant. Mahalo!
awesome tips bro...keep up the good work...
Dude! Very nice work!
Thank you so much!
Amazing video! congrats
“16s is worth breaking promises” truth spoken.
I feel like Florida needs it's own video about waves...
What a video man. Loved it. Onto the next one! And subbed.
great video!
very well explained.
Great job on the video.
Great vid!
I wish I would've seen this video a week ago before I went out to Oceanside and ended up underneath the pier.
Wow what an interesting video. Very informative thankyou - just subscribed!
Understanding subtle curves and textures had definitely made me a better man...not sure if it's made me a better surfer.
video very good, am i ready for big rock now???
Is this a documentary? Quality is on point 👌
Great vid thanks mate
Interesting choice of conclusion, but a very informative video. If only I had an explanation like this when I stated surfing, thank man:).
I love a hot onshore wind peeling back a wave.
Thank you so much yeeeeeew very good advice 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏❤ love god so much
Good work fella 👍
Part 2 should be when to go left or right and how fast a wave peels based on its slope. Part 3 should be reading sections ahead of you while you're on the wave.
Nice vid. Thx
Epic video!
Sharing the surfing lifestyle :)
Very didactic, you got my attention for the whole video, which is not given for a tutorial.
the number one problem that i have with surfing is reading a wave, so this helps a lot
nice video. thanks for posting
Nicely done
Cheers surf rat! Lil review for me of what I kind of know already but also I haven't surfed in years and I'm very glad I subscribed to your channel. :)
great video thnx
learnt a lot cheers mate
Your videos are fucking amazing. The tone of your voice, the pacing the education and highlights. Thank you so much. I've been starting to look at a lot of surf videos but you are the first channel I will subscribe to.
Great video
Very good!
What a cool video!
Great stuff
Thanks man!!
Cool videos mate, keep up the good work, will follow you!
This is such a rad video! I love the addition of the drawing on the waves! Super helpful
Thanks surf rat! Subbed. Great vid, keep it up!
Nice video bro🤙
Great video, thanks!
anyway to tell/predict whether the wave is going to be left or right?
It can be really hard sometimes, but usually, if you are looking out to sea as the wave is approaching you, parts of the wave will be tall, and others will be short, the tall parts will break first and move toward the short parts...good luck, and apologies for the late reply!