When I first started surfing, I spent 2 years without some of this crucial info. After a Hawaiian friend Sat me down on the beach & broke it down (very similarly to this video) my surfing exploded. Suddenly I was in the line up & getting real waves instead of the reform on the inside. A couple years ago, I shared this same info with my son & he does so much better in the water now. Sharing this video with him for our next trip.
So I've been surfing about three years and can hold my own in pretty daunting conditions, yet I've learned a new perspective from this video, cheers mate!
Dude cool explanation, ive lived hawaii all my life, we learned to read the ocean also, you make total scense just you broke it down in science , I've never heard it explained that way...... awesome ......I SUBSCRIBED😁👍🤙🤙🌊🌊
Add to these the ability to understand currents/rips and how they can be used to your advantage. One of the key differences between an ok surfer and a good surfer
Part 2 should be when to go left or right and how fast a wave peels based on its slope. Part 3 should be reading sections ahead of you while you're on the wave.
Thanks for the tips! But I'll disregard everything after 4:27.. Lol. You took a theory and tried to squeeze it in here.. too bad.. I just wanted to learn surf tips. Hahaha
A very nice video Surf Rat. I just want to add that the wave will break when the amplitude is 1.5 times the depth of the water (in front of the wave). So on a flat day, put on your goggles and survey the ocean bottom, and you'll know where the take off spots are. Pick out some reference points on land. This is a "trick of the trade" knowledge for competitive surfers. This is why some surfers always seem to be in the right spot. Cheers!
Damn simple-- isn't English and, is very technical-- cog. memory=mnemos. sim= set! All about, see at, the-- wave travel-- is set. Inter-- not a human family.
Great video! I learned so much and have infinite more to learn. The relationship between the surface and the bottom is a game changer. Looking forward to more videos from you. Thank you! 🙏🏽
I just knew when I heard him (accurately) talk about our ancestors coming from the sea some creationist idiots would pop up in the comments. Thanks for not disappointing me RUclipsrs!
No you're idiots because you have an illogical explanation for those things - a weird dude in the sky that no one has even seen. Of course I don't deny you your right to have that opinion, but that doesn't make it any less idiotic.
Do You Know how you stay safe out there and catch good waves? pick up a piece of trash before you enter the water.. it's your ticket to ride cuz No One Rides For Free
You'd think, but not really. You can bet that you'll get a nice left if you stick to one side most of the time. But otherwise, waves will break around you, far behind you, far in front of you, it's one of the harder places to read a wave in my experience. The most predictable being Cocoa Beach. It was very consistent. Or maybe all that training in Rockaway made everything else seem easy.
Few experts/teachers enunciate this aspect of the sport/activity/art/pursuit so well. (Unlike that crappy sentence! 😅) Then there's the clunky-but-cool slice of philosophy, from 4:25... 🤔😉 Inadvertently, the approach I've taken in returning to surfing - and now teaching my neice - is aligning with your own approach. That feels pretty good. 😌
Little do those persons who decide to surf know that they are to become the consummate "Waterman". Eventually learning to swim, surf, sail, scuba dive, oceanography, meteorology and navigation. All these skills and knowledge will serve them well throughout their lives. Enjoy. Would have been great to cover Surface Wind Wave Generation; Fetch (area), Frequency (wind speed), Duration (time). en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Breaking Waves, in general, waves break in a depth, one half it's (wave) length. (actually a little swallower) Longshore Transport Current, Rips, Shoreline Water Displacement.
My father was a university professor for 30 yrs and wrote several text books for colleges. He showed me scientifically how and why evolution the way you think is totally impossible. He was sad to show me the truth, but it was concrete evidence.
Coining Couple my father was God's sister and showed me mathematical scientific concrete proof evidence that evolution did happen that way and that you eat your boogers. You're so gross
Evolution and creation are steps in the same process. I don't know why people always think its only one or the other. One thing is created and it evolves. Socrates was endowed with the title "smartest man in the world" because he professed paradoxically that he "knew nothing". The world would be filled with more intelligent people if all you idiots would quit arguing over what you think you know and just stick to what you can actually demonstrate personally.
Your videos are fucking amazing. The tone of your voice, the pacing the education and highlights. Thank you so much. I've been starting to look at a lot of surf videos but you are the first channel I will subscribe to.
Watching this and your other videos of waves as a painter...can never observe enough to learn of the anatomy of waves and many ... Alot to learn....having a better understanding of the anatomy of waves will make one a better painter. ..remember it's a never ending learning process... Beginners get the basics down....then choose your subject..and keep at it... The late painter of the sea...E. John Robinson would so love to see today's generation how they film the ocean waves..... Be safe out there ....
Cheers surf rat! Lil review for me of what I kind of know already but also I haven't surfed in years and I'm very glad I subscribed to your channel. :)
The wind only blows offshore when I'm in work. Fact 😞
Yep as soon as I get off it turns onshore!
you must live in HB too :/
Superbly done! Concise & honest. Thank You!
❤️🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Awesome video, reading the waves can be one of the hardest bits to surfing, and you explained it perfectly. Thanks and keep it up
4:16 when someone touches their fingertips together like this, I listen with undivided attention.
As a life long surfer I knew all of this but I never had it presented in one short package like this. Very clear and to the point.
When I first started surfing, I spent 2 years without some of this crucial info. After a Hawaiian friend Sat me down on the beach & broke it down (very similarly to this video) my surfing exploded. Suddenly I was in the line up & getting real waves instead of the reform on the inside.
A couple years ago, I shared this same info with my son & he does so much better in the water now. Sharing this video with him for our next trip.
U must have watched The North Shore movie!
can you tell us what did they teach you?
@@lucasvelez5955 when the wave breaks here dont be there or ya gonna get drilled
@@ilitimotek come to hawaii and ask locals. they know everything
I wish I would've seen this video a week ago before I went out to Oceanside and ended up underneath the pier.
I mean...you CAN surf closeouts. ;)
say, what's a "rio.s"??
Eric Outram I thought so....Absolutely awesome and thanks!
only bodyboarders would surf it!
that's how I got really good at late takeoffs
Great video.
Cool video man! As a dude who lives in the desert and just bought a surfboard, it’s a steep steep learning curve.
oh yes, but a satisfying one. Don't forget you can surf into your 70s at least!
I used to live in the hi-desert but then me and my family moved to slo in 2018 , so I’ve been able to surf a lot lately
😅
Obi wan help me shred you are my only hope!
"16 seconds and above is worth breaking promises for" haha. Great video! :)
This video has 20 years of info.
So I've been surfing about three years and can hold my own in pretty daunting conditions, yet I've learned a new perspective from this video, cheers mate!
Dude cool explanation, ive lived hawaii all my life, we learned to read the ocean also, you make total scense just you broke it down in science , I've never heard it explained that way...... awesome ......I SUBSCRIBED😁👍🤙🤙🌊🌊
Add to these the ability to understand currents/rips and how they can be used to your advantage. One of the key differences between an ok surfer and a good surfer
yep! this is covered a bit in my video on paddling and getting out the back
Nice vid, learnt a lot in 5 mins!
As a beginner surfer this was such a helpful video.
I don't even surf and find this interesting as can be. Thanks for a great to-the-point video man.
Thank you bro! Great video! Love from Brazil!
Will this work for snowboarding? Asking for a blind tricycle rider
Probably the first video every beginner surfer or any one going into the drink should watch.
I'm glad he clarified because I thought that was a desert, and it was sandy and dry
Very well explained!! Thank you guys, keep doing great videos like this one!
Thank you so much yeeeeeew very good advice 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏❤ love god so much
better of catching a close out then sitting there, waiting
“16s is worth breaking promises” truth spoken.
Part 2 should be when to go left or right and how fast a wave peels based on its slope. Part 3 should be reading sections ahead of you while you're on the wave.
I’m so happy I’ve found you and this channel. Very healthy sense of humour too. So informative thank you
Thanks for the tips! But I'll disregard everything after 4:27.. Lol. You took a theory and tried to squeeze it in here.. too bad.. I just wanted to learn surf tips. Hahaha
A very nice video Surf Rat. I just want to add that the wave will break when the amplitude is 1.5 times the depth of the water (in front of the wave). So on a flat day, put on your goggles and survey the ocean bottom, and you'll know where the take off spots are. Pick out some reference points on land. This is a "trick of the trade" knowledge for competitive surfers. This is why some surfers always seem to be in the right spot. Cheers!
Great video! Very informative and easy to follow
I feel like Florida needs it's own video about waves...
Damn simple-- isn't English and, is very technical-- cog. memory=mnemos. sim= set! All about, see at,
the-- wave travel-- is set. Inter-- not a human family.
You had me all along until you said that I used to be a fish… But other than that, very educational.
Great video! I learned so much and have infinite more to learn. The relationship between the surface and the bottom is a game changer.
Looking forward to more videos from you.
Thank you! 🙏🏽
Really good video dude. Just started surfing this explains a lot in 5 mins
I just knew when I heard him (accurately) talk about our ancestors coming from the sea some creationist idiots would pop up in the comments. Thanks for not disappointing me RUclipsrs!
Declan Conroy Yup, same. Religious people are fucking idiots.
Yeah bro, we are idiots because we have a logical explanation for reason, logic, language, mind and laws...all of which science cannot explain
No you're idiots because you have an illogical explanation for those things - a weird dude in the sky that no one has even seen. Of course I don't deny you your right to have that opinion, but that doesn't make it any less idiotic.
Wtf do our ancestors have to do with us surfing anyways ?
Some of us went back into the water, but, one day we must all go into the water
Thanks so very much for sharing your knowledge friend, you’re kind to do so and helping a guy out. 🤙 🌊
Hahahaha "WEHEEE! This is the ocean!"
Really instructive, thanks for this great video
Do You Know how you stay safe out there and catch good waves? pick up a piece of trash before you enter the water.. it's your ticket to ride cuz No One Rides For Free
Unless you're in Rockaway Beach in nyc. In which case, just throw everything you learned into the air and hope to hit a random wave.
Come to San Diego
But doesn't most of Rockaway beach break on or near a jetty? I feel like thats more predictable than many shifting, amorphous sandbars.
You'd think, but not really. You can bet that you'll get a nice left if you stick to one side most of the time. But otherwise, waves will break around you, far behind you, far in front of you, it's one of the harder places to read a wave in my experience. The most predictable being Cocoa Beach. It was very consistent. Or maybe all that training in Rockaway made everything else seem easy.
Come to New Jersey...
this video is so great in its lessons, editing and video making
Ok. Whatever Chandler. Can we go surfing now?
i live in israel, so most of the swells only travel from crete which means that the waves have at most about 8 sec.
Thank you for the tips. So many years I still cant predict the wave !
dont agree on the 400million but greatttt video!!!!
Salty and wet
My favorite topic, now my favorite video on the topic. Thank you for what you're doing!!! Cheers!
Beginners don't know this stuff. Let them fiqure it out on their own no?
Great video (until the ancestral sea creature myth) 😊
Great video. Thank you so much
Dang son, the surprising eloquence blew me away! Sick video and super informative. Subscribed!
This is so good I want MOORE THEORY!!😍
I love a hot onshore wind peeling back a wave.
Dear Brother, What is the best way to explain this in a manner of our time?
Cool videos mate, keep up the good work, will follow you!
Great stuff... added to my bookmarks.
Really nice video, thanks!
It’s Sean Evan’s from Hot ones!!!
what language is this ?
1:44 like the chasing Mavericks reference
Closeouts are the best
Daniel Goldin If I'm bodysurfing or bodyboarding that's what I look for
"16 seconds and above is where ------------ all" I'm sorry can someone please tell me what was said I really didnt understand
'16 seconds and above is worth breaking promises for' but don't tell your wife i said that
great video! thank you
great video mate, thanks !
Evolution is a theiry not fact.
How’s ur girl? “Salty and wet”
How big is the wave on the cover photo
Evolutionist haha 🙋♂
Few experts/teachers enunciate this aspect of the sport/activity/art/pursuit so well. (Unlike that crappy sentence! 😅) Then there's the clunky-but-cool slice of philosophy, from 4:25... 🤔😉
Inadvertently, the approach I've taken in returning to surfing - and now teaching my neice - is aligning with your own approach. That feels pretty good. 😌
Little do those persons who decide to surf know that they are to become the consummate "Waterman".
Eventually learning to swim, surf, sail, scuba dive, oceanography, meteorology and navigation.
All these skills and knowledge will serve them well throughout their lives.
Enjoy.
Would have been great to cover Surface Wind Wave Generation; Fetch (area), Frequency (wind speed), Duration (time).
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave
Breaking Waves, in general, waves break in a depth, one half it's (wave) length. (actually a little swallower)
Longshore Transport Current, Rips, Shoreline Water Displacement.
Great video and I can’t believe people still refuse to accept evolution. Grow a brain please.
I find it humbling and wonderful to know we came from sand bugs. Others find it offensive - go figure
My father was a university professor for 30 yrs and wrote several text books for colleges. He showed me scientifically how and why evolution the way you think is totally impossible. He was sad to show me the truth, but it was concrete evidence.
Coining Couple my father was God's sister and showed me mathematical scientific concrete proof evidence that evolution did happen that way and that you eat your boogers. You're so gross
Coining Couple did he teach you that the earth is flat too?
Evolution and creation are steps in the same process. I don't know why people always think its only one or the other. One thing is created and it evolves. Socrates was endowed with the title "smartest man in the world" because he professed paradoxically that he "knew nothing". The world would be filled with more intelligent people if all you idiots would quit arguing over what you think you know and just stick to what you can actually demonstrate personally.
Salty and wet oceans are the best 😄
STOOT stay out of trouble
Damn, that's some good editing. ka pai
Your videos are fucking amazing. The tone of your voice, the pacing the education and highlights. Thank you so much. I've been starting to look at a lot of surf videos but you are the first channel I will subscribe to.
When you reach the beach with your board, BEFORE you paddle out, sit and watch what the waves are doing for a couple minutes. Its worth it.
This was actually rich on information and very helpful!
Watching this and your other videos of waves as a painter...can never observe enough to learn of the anatomy of waves and many ...
Alot to learn....having a better understanding of the anatomy of waves will make one a better painter. ..remember it's a never ending learning process...
Beginners get the basics down....then choose your subject..and keep at it...
The late painter of the sea...E. John Robinson would so love to see today's generation how they film the ocean waves.....
Be safe out there ....
who paddles out to turd...
Excellent presentation
"Salty and wet"
This video is exactly what I was looking for
🙏😁
Salty and wet btw guys
Suggestion. A video to read and know where to position oneself when surfing to get that peak wave spot.
Hey, I touch on this in a few of my other videos, and I'll keep coming back to it as it's so important
Awesome vid-really helpful and clear cheers
learnt a lot cheers mate
This is a great video, thank you very much for making it! Subscribed and really looking forward to the rest of your content
Surfing is fully sick
this video is just obvious
Thank you so much!
What a fantastic video! So clear and concise. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom! Very scientific. So cool!
This video helped me out so much when I started surfing. Crazy how much info there is to take away still
Great video mate!
Cheers surf rat! Lil review for me of what I kind of know already but also I haven't surfed in years and I'm very glad I subscribed to your channel. :)
great video!
Actually it all starts with the sun. We're surfing sunlight