How To Catch A Green Wave?

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  • Опубликовано: 24 ноя 2024

Комментарии • 230

  • @lucasf2628
    @lucasf2628 3 года назад +154

    this is the most helpful video I've seen about surfing. I went from occasionally catching waves to consistently catching waves in 1 day. I also paddled less than I ever have and caught 5x as many waves. thank you so much for this.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +6

      That is epic Lucas!! Please share the knowledge with others!!

    • @alexhan2773
      @alexhan2773 3 года назад +11

      Cannot agree more. This is by far the most instructional video about surfing on youtube for beginners like me. After watching video, now i understand why i was either nose diving or letting waves just pass by me(despite all that paddling..) I just had to arch my back and slightly push down my tail, so I could use that energy from the wave to push me 'forward'.

  • @tckimx
    @tckimx 2 года назад +11

    Wtf! I’ve been surfing every weekend consistently for the last 11 years and didn’t figure this out on my own? I’m 51 years old (started when I was 40) so I figured everyone catching more waves than me in the water was because they had been surfing all their life. I was the guy thrashing to catch waves thinking I wasn’t a strong enough paddler. Watch out groms! Not only do I have the technique now, but I’ve got power and stamina from 11 years of thrash paddling. 🤣🤣. I tried this technique on my last session and I didn’t miss a wave. Thank you 🙏

  • @tim.jenkins75
    @tim.jenkins75 3 месяца назад +3

    49 year old newbie.... this is priceless. Strong paddling for position onto the wave not to keep up with the wave.....game changer !

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 месяца назад

      Now you know you have the advantage

  • @petewinn9882
    @petewinn9882 2 года назад +26

    My wave count easily doubled, after implementing this, and fatigue reduced by half! Limited myself to 2 paddle strokes per wave, and being in the right place and using this technique made it super easy to catch waves.

  • @jakejp7087
    @jakejp7087 2 года назад +8

    Mental how much this has changed my surfing, I've gone from feeding off scraps to catching 90% of waves I go for, just that slight arch of the back has been such a game changer! Thanks so much!

  • @elikane7701
    @elikane7701 2 года назад +3

    things that longtime proficient surfers do without realizing they do you show and make us see them,and then we think,right, that's exactly what we do.great tips and knowledge that you impart, that can save years of learning

  • @mitchellpotts3609
    @mitchellpotts3609 3 года назад +3

    I have seen guys doing this for years and never understood how they could catch a wave with two paddle strokes. Thanks guys can’t wait to try this!!!

    • @mitchellpotts3609
      @mitchellpotts3609 3 года назад +2

      Update... tried the oreo this week for a few days caught double the waves i normally catch

  • @tomasabad2507
    @tomasabad2507 6 месяцев назад +1

    This video is incredible, I cannot stress how good the explanation was. The Oreo biscuit part was the cherry on the top, it made me understand visually, and feel it physically. Amazing props to you guys

  • @joanmisa9591
    @joanmisa9591 3 года назад +1

    I've seen this a few weeks ago. This woman would paddle slowly & calmly, back arched up, chin up. She looked so classy! But most of all, she caught those waves SO easily. This video just confirmed that her way is the way to aim for. Thank you!!

  • @Bartonkaren3
    @Bartonkaren3 Год назад +4

    I have learned so much by watching and listening to you both. Over paddling and not waiting for the wave is something I do a lot. Every good surfer I watch just seems to glide into the wave. I have been able to do that on occasion but couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t do it consistently. This video really helped me to understand what I’m doing wrong and what I can do to correct it. Thank you both.

  • @ericpercussion
    @ericpercussion 2 года назад +1

    I just spend my whole day nose diving and whiping out. Now i know why. Will try tomorrow. Thanks guys!

  • @sethm7761
    @sethm7761 Месяц назад

    Today was my third day surfing (LA dawn patrol!). This video was extremely illuminating. I'm excited to get out and pay attention to these things. Thank you!

  • @mojingjingerli8469
    @mojingjingerli8469 3 года назад +2

    Finally I understand why some people catch a wave with only few paddle .Nice !

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +1

      Happy to help!

  • @andreagrimm1408
    @andreagrimm1408 2 года назад +2

    The best and only video about catching green waves which makes sense🤩 I tried today and this is really a game changer. Don’t get why coaches and tutorials say keeping head low and paddle insanely. Thanks guys!🤙🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

  • @monizen6380
    @monizen6380 3 года назад +10

    Great tips guys! Thank you so much. I did just that today and caught some fabulous waves hardly paddling ! Thanks

  • @mpower2386
    @mpower2386 3 года назад +7

    Brilliant, binging your vids on takeoffs/catching waves as I want to up my wave count and im getting loads of simple pratictal advice. The kettlebell part and the underwater shot of the tail are really great ways to illustrate your points. I was told that I needed to dip my head down on the takeoff to create forward momentum down the face of the wave lol... your approach seems a lot less stressful.. I wont be able to go out for a while but I cant wait to try that oreo method

  • @gtells
    @gtells 2 года назад

    Hey, OMBE member mostly because of this video. I think about surfing differently now and I’m making progress as an intermediate. I forward this video to buddies who are hungry and deserve an advantage.

  • @DYD2023
    @DYD2023 Год назад +1

    Thanks @ombe surf, this video is a gem. I was struggling for sometime to catch waves mostly because of the madness around paddling and paddling hard. As the coach suggested - feel the wave and glide along, it's working wonders for me. The moment I moved my attention from myself and board to the wave, the game is so much more fun and easy. Thanks again

  • @SpencerBrien22
    @SpencerBrien22 3 года назад +8

    Love this video. Most, most helpful. I've been struggling with catching green waves from the "seated" position and paddling my butt off with very limited success. I get discouraged and tired and end up going to the inside for the scraps and use the "hop-on" technique just to catch something and get some rides. I can't wait to practice this in my next session and increase my wave catching skills. Great stuff, boys. Keep'em comin'.

  • @tjethridge
    @tjethridge 6 месяцев назад

    I’m going surfing in Costa Rica in June. Haven’t surfed in 3 or 4 years and I’m 69. So there’s the whole senility thing working against me too. This video is so helpful to get me back in the zone. Join me in CR

  • @cebrenbenson612
    @cebrenbenson612 5 месяцев назад

    Watched so many videos on this but the way you guys explain the how and why makes so much sense

  • @sylvain1865
    @sylvain1865 2 года назад +1

    Amazing, the dumbell on the rear of the board, this explain perfectly the physic.👌

  • @thibautmairesse1374
    @thibautmairesse1374 3 года назад +5

    Thanks again for sharing this video and tips. I have been surfing for about ten years and I am starting to realise that I am doing a lot of things wrong which explain why I am still struggling with wave entry. It feels like I am paddling too hard and never manage to “glide” before making the drop. As a result, I often end up to low on the wave or behind the section / pocket. Please continue to post of this topic; wave entry & gliding

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +2

      Hey Thibaut, thank you for your comment, if you'd like to get more in depth information about the subject we invite you to get the accelerated surf program: ombe.co/

  • @garylugg9860
    @garylugg9860 2 года назад

    old video that I am re watching .. even at the wave pool where i know where to sit the "waiting "has been a game changer ... no more frantic thrashing about ... waiti wait wait couple of strokes in and feel the lift of the board ... such a simple but useful tip. Gary

  • @almonj6269
    @almonj6269 2 года назад +4

    This is the best video I've seen on this topic without question! Absolutely excellent, extremely well explained plus the use of the video examples was key to understanding it! Thanks guys!!

  • @marcelhurtado5766
    @marcelhurtado5766 7 месяцев назад +1

    very easy to understand. keep putting out more videos! 👍

  • @benjaminseeloff1527
    @benjaminseeloff1527 3 года назад +4

    Thanks guys I watched your video on pop ups and wow it paid off right away for me. I’ve been sharing your channel with all my surfing buddies. I didn’t think this video would apply to me, but I was wrong again I learned even more about taking off on a wave. You guys are awesome surf rut busters! Keep up the great work.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +1

      Thanks for sharing Ben!!

  • @andrewwright3676
    @andrewwright3676 11 месяцев назад

    Cheers guy your video is really helpful. The most important thing for me is waiting & feeling the glide rather than paddling too hard. 🤙

  • @fmichielsens
    @fmichielsens 2 года назад +1

    Had my first weekend taking surfinglessons together with my 14year old daugther. A three day course in the Netherlands. We LOVED IT and are ready planning for the next weekend. This video shows us all the mistakes we've made 😁 . Great explanation of how to catch the green wave. Thanx for sharing 🤙 and hopefully we can catch them asap.

  • @andysmith6975
    @andysmith6975 2 года назад +1

    Waiting for the lift. Going to have to try that. Excellent breakdown and tips. Thanks guys.

  • @AAkCN1
    @AAkCN1 3 месяца назад +1

    Woooow. Thanks a lot! Best explanation I have seen so far. Keen on trying to visualise this advice next time around

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 месяца назад

      Glad it was helpful!

  • @tiagopinto365
    @tiagopinto365 Год назад

    I was definitely overpaddling and then my pop up suffered because i had no energy... this is game changing proper stuff👌👌🧨

  • @michellesheptak
    @michellesheptak 3 года назад +4

    Brilliant boys! Always learning from you, even when I don't think it applies ....it all does! 20 + yrs surfing and love learning from you!

  • @simoncalnan
    @simoncalnan 2 года назад

    Arching the back more and waiting for the lift of the wave has helped so much. Thank you very much. Some of the best surf instruction iv come across.

  • @JulianDaniels
    @JulianDaniels Год назад

    Wow! Such a good video! I learned to not hurry at all. I use to get my biceps hurt by paddling and popping up too fast. So, staying calm is the right way too progress I hope.

  • @jabbaughfc
    @jabbaughfc 3 года назад +1

    This was a big aha for me. The last time I was surfing I was paddling like mad to "match the speed of the wave." What was funny is that after I got tired (after a few hours) I started to sit back in order to bail when I didn't think I would catch the wave. When I did that I kept catching waves. I was accidentally doing (because of exhaustion) the wait and oreo technique you are advocating and it was working. The light bulb didn't go on until right now though. Looking forward to trying that the next time I go out.

  • @apachewolfscout
    @apachewolfscout 10 месяцев назад

    Cant wait to try it out. Ive been one if those desperate paddlers and failed to get tail down to plain, with plenty nose dives as well! Such a clear video, still its always easy when your just watching! Should be somewhere sweet in next few weeks to try out your advice, many thanks!

  • @brandonwong199
    @brandonwong199 2 года назад

    OMG the waiting and oreo biscuit combo has changed my life!! Last 2 surfs have been, more waves, less stress, more time, more feeling and less pain haha. Amazing vid. Thx guys 🙏

  • @MichaelJWise
    @MichaelJWise Год назад

    Wow thanks! I thought I needed to have speed before the wave got to me so I have been paddling way too early and getting too far in front of the wave. Next time I go out I will wait for the wave to pick me up.

  • @samenonlinezingenmetroyvan655
    @samenonlinezingenmetroyvan655 2 месяца назад

    Totally followed your explanation! Very clear. Thanks a lot, keep it up. Can’t wait to practice! 🏄

  • @aussiert
    @aussiert 6 месяцев назад +1

    This is gold. Thank you.

  • @conwaeburrell8490
    @conwaeburrell8490 2 года назад +1

    Definitely going to try these techniques. I’ve been making all the mistakes mentioned in this video. I’ll let you know how I go!

  • @mikamikalson7393
    @mikamikalson7393 Год назад

    This is some excellent advice. Improved my understanding and ability to catch waves a great deal! Much appreciated gents.

  • @dianetaylor2557
    @dianetaylor2557 3 года назад +1

    This is great. I haven't practiced it yet but I was always told to paddle and paddle hard. This creates so much tension in my body that by the time I came to pop up, I'd be tired, tense and rushed. I can't wait to practice this! Thank you so much!

  • @AffordableLeather
    @AffordableLeather 2 года назад +1

    What a great video!
    A while back I was at The Wave in Bristol (UK!) surfing their Waikiki wave.
    Most of the time I was paddling to catch the wave and doing ok, but there was one where something happened and I found myself lifted by the wave and I was up and riding with barely a paddle.
    I had no idea how I did that, but now I've seen your video, it looks like I chanced on your "Oreo" technique, so I'm going to have to give that another try soon!

  • @ripping300
    @ripping300 2 года назад

    Thanks for the help! I have been having trouble with catching waves consistently. After this I realised it’s because I keep paddling myself away from the peak. Thanks!!

  • @Kahawai68
    @Kahawai68 3 года назад +2

    Oh dear God….I have been surfing for 35 years and have learnt so much from you guys over the last few months. I am hoping that I have the faith to try this as it sounds like it will be a game changer for my constant battle to just get onto the waves. Next….I just need some waves. Being in Darwin does not help in this regard.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      So cool to hear that we have been helpful. Move to where the waves are!!

    • @Kahawai68
      @Kahawai68 3 года назад

      @@ombesurf I wish

  • @TechboogieTV
    @TechboogieTV 10 месяцев назад

    Hoping this works 😅 Beginner here and struggling to catch waves consistently. Was thinking it was because my paddles aren't strong enough, but this technique makes me think I've been approaching it wrong. Love the idea of paddling less because my beach requires so much paddling just to get into position I dont have anything left by the time the wave comes. Giving this a try tomorrow and will report back!

  • @SR-ed7ye
    @SR-ed7ye Год назад

    Thank you for this information. This is the most helpful video I've seen yet. I'm excited to apply it. Waiting at the bus stop!

  • @ride.your.bike.
    @ride.your.bike. Год назад

    Outstanding content. Bless you for making this free for the world on RUclips!

  • @rachelledeleon2924
    @rachelledeleon2924 3 года назад +1

    Watching this video really helped improve my paddling. The way you explained and demonstrate is on point! Thank s so much you guys!

  • @georgewcamp
    @georgewcamp 3 года назад +1

    cant wait to try the oreo, I have been over paddling for years!

  • @kaplodoy
    @kaplodoy 10 месяцев назад

    Waiting is key... best take away. 👌🏾

  • @earthy770
    @earthy770 3 года назад +1

    This vid is pure gold. Thank you guys.

  • @metallitai
    @metallitai Год назад

    this is an amazing video on breaking down how to surf and as a beginner its really helpful! thank you!

  • @ninolevicar2238
    @ninolevicar2238 2 года назад

    This is the most useful video I have ever watched on catching more waves. Thanks!

  • @anjanaprasad5325
    @anjanaprasad5325 Год назад

    Love this video, thank you! I've been to so many surf school lessons and definitely do the early frantic head down paddle, which doesn't always feel right in the green waves. Will definitely use the Oreo biscuit!

  • @ingridperez2672
    @ingridperez2672 2 года назад

    Thank you guys! Really enjoyed the video. I will try and be patient and wait for the wave tomorrow when I'm surfing. I'm a beginner surfer and I really need to catch my own waves instead of having my instructor setting them up for me. ha! We'll see how it goes. Gracias!

  • @jackdoughty4238
    @jackdoughty4238 3 года назад +1

    Wow - Thank you - this is the best explanation I have heard/seen of catching green waves. The idea of sinking your tail of the board by arching up and gliding into the wave is great! Cannot wait to try it. Your description of the wave grabbing hold of the tail of the board and pushing you forward was great! Typically - I have been trying to power paddle my way on to the wave with chin/chest down. Depending on the types of waves - this results in a lot of missed opportunities for fast forming beach break waves. Question and observation: I think I have noticed that when the board begins to plane in the wave, that you will see water shooting out from sides of the nose of the board. If so, I think this would be the prefect time to begin your pop-up. True??

  • @damonleslie3526
    @damonleslie3526 2 года назад

    Hands down the best tutorial I have ever seen!!! 🙏🙏🙏🤙🤙🤙

  • @c_dubbzz6127
    @c_dubbzz6127 3 года назад +3

    🤯"white water map"🤯
    been surfing since I was like 8 y/o and learning this for the first time rn just blew my mind.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +1

      That is awesome man!

  • @michelGaranx
    @michelGaranx 3 года назад +2

    Dude you're putting words on a feeling for me thanks. I've bodyboard for quite a long time and was used to catch a lot of waves with very little effort because I understood how to position correctly. Than I could not go to the water for about 10 years and now that I'm going back I surf. I took a lesson in which the instructor told me you have to paddle quite strongly to get momentum then you put your chin to the board to put weight on the front of the board and put all you've got in the last 5 strokes.... bottom line, I was exhausted before popping up and popping up was difficult.... What I've just saw makes is quite the opposite and makes a lot of sense to me. Now I have to go and work it out.

  • @davidjarvis813
    @davidjarvis813 2 года назад

    Yep, have watched this 5 times after 5 sessions, and picked up more pointers each time 👍

  • @Edy1331
    @Edy1331 Год назад

    Thanks for the great explanation. It was a game changer for me!

  • @pepemedin4
    @pepemedin4 Год назад +1

    la información quedan en este video para los que estamos iniciando en el surf es de mucha ayuda, hay muchos errores que en las escuelas de surf deja, pero los puntos que tocan en este video son muy importantes, ayudan mucho a entender como generar el impulso, la importancia de estar bien colocado en el mar y como la distribución de tu peso de tu cabeza en la tabla es también muy importante 👍🏼 muchas gracias!!! un fuerte abrazo desde Perú 🇵🇪

  • @glentricket2952
    @glentricket2952 2 года назад

    Really enjoyed yourself and Claytons break down language Exactly what I wanted to hear.
    Thanks 🙏

  • @MrJayfout
    @MrJayfout Год назад

    Awesome tutorial! Now I know why I nosedive so much! Thank you!

  • @mtigomizh
    @mtigomizh 3 года назад +1

    #1 biggest takeaway for me was that if I see a lot of turbulence and bubbles around my hands, then I'm paddling too hard/fast and that is ineffective 🔥🔥. #2 was that your tips helped me figure out how not to sit too far outside 🔥

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      That is awesome Nick, Stoked you get something worth out of it.

  • @Nathan_Salcedo
    @Nathan_Salcedo Год назад

    I can't wait to put this to practice in a couple weeks!

  • @Hopefulgoingforward
    @Hopefulgoingforward Год назад

    Learned a lot, thanks for the knowledge!

  • @nicoleyong639
    @nicoleyong639 2 года назад

    Your videos are the best. provides the motivation/inspiration/knowledge for me to not give up

  • @RemoStone1
    @RemoStone1 2 года назад

    Excellant video and many precious advices, looking it give me a chance to catch more wave , Thanks you

  • @FJRamosArt
    @FJRamosArt 2 года назад

    This makes all the difference. Thanks.

  • @philschuster1624
    @philschuster1624 3 года назад +1

    These videos are so helpful. Very easy to follow. Keep them coming!

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      Thank you Phil! Will do!

  • @markbox9480
    @markbox9480 3 года назад +1

    Thanks guys, I really need these words of advice, I'm doing so many of the wrong things you mention.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      We are here to help Mark.

  • @richardharvey2063
    @richardharvey2063 3 года назад +1

    Awesome explanations and tips as ever! Single best thing you can do to improve your surfing? Listen to these guys!

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      Boom! Thanks Richard.

  • @pengzhang1957
    @pengzhang1957 3 года назад

    Thank you man. This video is great!! I am that guy who paddled like hell yet always miss the wave.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      Glad we could help Peng!

  • @nestorqa1681
    @nestorqa1681 3 года назад

    Oreo biscuit explanation changed my surf game!😀

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      That is great to hear Nestor!

  • @tiagopinto365
    @tiagopinto365 Год назад

    Thanks guys!! AMAZING stuff🤙🤙

  • @jaimemc7886
    @jaimemc7886 3 года назад +1

    I am learning good tips with this guys … and I have 46 years surfing

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      Thanks Jaime, So stoked you're getting something from us!

  • @alihussain-yu1kk
    @alihussain-yu1kk Год назад

    You guys are legends, thank you so much for your guidance

  • @quimlima
    @quimlima 3 года назад

    Nice that you mentioned the speed of the wave, that said, what you guys believe is the average wave speed for waves ranging from 3ft to 8ft? Of course every spot has its own wind, currents, tides, swell going on...

  • @viniciusromolosilva4709
    @viniciusromolosilva4709 3 года назад

    game change advices guys!! thanks for that! Lets pratice tomorrow...waiting the swell get little lower

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад

      You got this Vini!

  • @useless_fella
    @useless_fella 2 года назад +1

    what is being told in this video is true but its kinda what every surfer know subconsciously.. Surfers normally don't paddle to match the speed of the wave they normally do to be at the right place coz its very hard to be at the 'bus stop' right from the beginning.

  • @benjaminloggenberg839
    @benjaminloggenberg839 3 года назад +4

    Epic video as always! I have a question regarding the Oreo biscuit and in what scenario you would actually keep your head a bit more down instead? Paddle/surf scientist Rob Case and other coaches often mention scenarios where you would actually keep your head down when catching a wave to help with the momentum and the wave taking you/pushing you down the face instead of moving out from underneath you. Thanks again for the amazing content!

    • @boltup5566
      @boltup5566 3 года назад +5

      Head down when the wave is mushy and you're trying to get into the wave early. Oreo biscuit when the wave is steep and walled and you're taking off late.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +3

      If you have to put your head down to get into a wave, that means you are late for the wave which means you were out of position in the first place. Rob has created modules for our accelerated surfing program where he explains in depth the mechanics of paddling in different scenarios. We all agree that you have to put your head down when you are in the shoulder, you are late or you have to ramp up you paddle power. Thanks for your comment Ben.

    • @benjaminloggenberg839
      @benjaminloggenberg839 3 года назад

      @@ombesurf Great feedback, thanks!

    • @benjaminloggenberg839
      @benjaminloggenberg839 3 года назад

      @@boltup5566 Makes sense, thanks :D

  • @thekevinhollyshow6487
    @thekevinhollyshow6487 6 месяцев назад

    excellent video thank you

  • @mingkit4372
    @mingkit4372 2 года назад

    this video is very helpful, thank you!!

  • @Cuisinenomade1
    @Cuisinenomade1 3 года назад

    Wow! This is indeed a game changing video. I will try next time and let you know, but it actually sounds logical and i discovered the oreo position on my last session, yet lots of paddle since there are other channels/videos teaching to "match" the speed of the wave. I will let you know how it goes! Thanks a lot!

  • @hughmckendrick3018
    @hughmckendrick3018 3 года назад

    Looking forward to trying these points.

  • @markn0916
    @markn0916 3 года назад

    great video ever. I wish I watched this 20 years ago.

  • @carloermini5918
    @carloermini5918 3 года назад

    Great clear and simple video about physics of surf, thank you, really thank you

  • @jameschalmers9939
    @jameschalmers9939 3 года назад +1

    I've been struggling to get my confidence back up as I've just not had enough time in the water the last few years (bloody work interfering in the important things!). Anyway, these tips are great to get me more intentional on my take off, which has been a massive problem for me. So, I'm gonna wait and catch the wave, positioning myself by watching for where the wave starts to draw up water from the bottom. And I'm gonna stop sticking my head down and paddling like crazy to scratch into the wave from too far out the back or on the shoulder. Looking forward to some Oreo biscuits 😋

    • @jameschalmers9939
      @jameschalmers9939 3 года назад

      These tips helped do much this morning! Caught way more waves with less paddling and had tonnes more ability to pay attention to the wave and keep my head up to look where I was going. Cheers boys!

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +1

      That is so good to hear James!

  • @JohnnLW
    @JohnnLW 3 года назад +6

    This vid is brilliant!
    How does the surfboard tech play into this? Me and a friend have stuck to longboards (80+ Litres) for about a year now because we assumed we needed to be fitter to catch waves on shortboards (we live 2 hours from our nearest break), i.e. more volume = easier paddling, when actually it's technique from what I'm seeing here.
    With that in mind though we still catch plenty of unbroken green waves just by paddling until we plane - could we be unconsciously doing some of this? I.e. we both arch our backs, or are there other forces at work with longboards?
    Thanks guys!

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +3

      Longer boards are easier to catch waves because you can feel the lift of the wave earlier. The downside is you have to surf the shoulder in order to make your board fit into the wave. Its like ordering a pie and just eating the crust.

    • @randomstuff9685
      @randomstuff9685 3 года назад +2

      I ride a 5’4 and I outpaddle most of the longboarders

  • @norcalrod
    @norcalrod 3 года назад +1

    I love the discussions and explanations. Wish I had this decades ago, learned some of your theories through the school of hard knocks. One area that I like an opinion is in larger waves where there’s a lot of surface tension pushing up the face of the wave, and waiting for the lift results in late drops. Also, in some beach breaks, the better shoulders are caused by rip breaks, where you’re paddling into an outgoing rip and the surface water is moving against you.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 года назад +1

      The advice given is for regular everyday conditions. Having the awareness to make changes for different conditions is key.

  • @stephensimpson9626
    @stephensimpson9626 3 года назад +1

    Zen surfing....wait,oreo,bliss!......nice gents...love the RSA accent Awe!

  • @martinyoung9901
    @martinyoung9901 Год назад

    Very helpful. Thanks.

  • @jamesrooney9759
    @jamesrooney9759 Год назад

    No info on where to place body on diifferent board sizes.
    Enjoyed the other tips,very helpful.

  • @rctrix9063
    @rctrix9063 2 года назад

    Really great instruction and very entertaining. Thanks 👍

  • @sw-sq5gk
    @sw-sq5gk 2 года назад

    Most helpful video ever. Tnanks!

  • @SIMSNYC
    @SIMSNYC 2 года назад

    Awesome video cant wait to give this a try