Geez, that was really helpful. I know that I've never been taught this concept more concisely & clearly than you did here, and I've been at this >40years. Thank you again, Clayton!
Instant subscribe! (or like two minutes in) Man, I’ve never thought there was so much to this, I only thought the fins were just to keep things tracking, to hold the line. So much more, it’s amazing! Thanks so much for breaking down the physics, so cool!
Great explanation and second the Bob Ross comment! Would be interesting to explain the dynamics of the the board and fins separately in a more in-depth video, because you have many different principles in effect between the two at different times, like board flex/spring when bottom turning and fins flex/spring when pumping down the line. The two parts I think should be described differently is the fin toe in and fin lift. With fin toe in I think of it as increasing turn radius by counter steer, and moving center of the turn towards the center of gravity on the board (imagine a car that steers with all four wheels vs steering with just front wheels.) With fin lift, the lift is on the whole fin perpendicular to the foil, giving you increased hold on a bottom turn and pulling you up and forward when engaged on rail in the tube.
Thanks so much for this one. Very helpful. I found the drain analogy very interesting as a powder hound. As all powder hounds know, the best transition is found on the deadly tree wells, (which are to be avoided obviously unless you know what you're doing). Comparing the circle of the drain to the wave makes good sense from my perspective and I'm gonna keep paddling here in Bali until I can speak wave like I speak mountain!
Great video! I think this was very interesting! Especially the science behind it. So can I ask now that I understand the whole rail to rail game, how do i go onto my heel side rail without falling backwards. I can do a half decent bottom turn but as soon as I come up the wave I try to turn my head and lean onto my heels but !Splat! i fall straight onto my ass :(
I want to surf on rail but I can't figure out the technique. Can it be learnt on small waves? Snowboarding is easy because you just lean over your toes or sit back over your heels. This doesn't work for surfing.
Smaller waves give you less room for engaging the rails, they usually break faster and with a much smaller area from the pocket to the flat part of the shoulder. I find it a lot easier on bigger, slower moving waves that run nice and clean. It gives you more time and control while figuring out the lean and learning to 'trust the hold'. Smaller surf usually requires you to be much more reactive and precise - depends heavily on the board and riding style though.
@@ombesurf Cheers to you guys for not just pumping out content and ads like many others, but going out of your way to engage with your viewers even on YT comments for the sake of understanding. It truly shows what makes OMBE stand out from all the rest: your natural connectedness (both in and out of the water) as well as your deep rooted ambition to spread the word and the spirit. It strongly resonates with me and many others and is well appreciated. Happy New Year and all the best to you, maybe we'll get to share a few some day!
Why rail to rail? To generate, maintain and scrub velocity so as to remain in or near the pocket. You can quite literally remove the fins from the equation and the basal principle of rail to rail becomes more apparent.
Agree, only because when you’re trying to get your head around new concepts, (like the science behind fins and rails) the music is distracting and makes it harder to concentrate. Well for me at least 🤷♂️😂
Putting a hydrofoil on the bottom of a surfboard is by far the best way to reduce drag. It is literally like having a miniature airplane under your feet. It makes the waves being surfed feel like they are significantly larger and more powerful when compared to traditional surfing. If you live in an area with smaller surf, it may completely change the way your think about surfing rail to rail. Just saying...........
He’s the Bob Ross of surfing 😊 everything is informative and relaxing
My wife would beg to differ. Thanks for the compliment. Love art!
I know WHAT I'm doing but I don't know how it works or why. Thanks for educating us surfers 🤙🏼
Makes it more fun this way
Geez, that was really helpful. I know that I've never been taught this concept more concisely & clearly than you did here, and I've been at this >40years. Thank you again, Clayton!
Thanks Fred. Please share and pass it on to
Fantastic video. So thankful for this.
Instant subscribe! (or like two minutes in) Man, I’ve never thought there was so much to this, I only thought the fins were just to keep things tracking, to hold the line. So much more, it’s amazing! Thanks so much for breaking down the physics, so cool!
Stoked for you
What an interesting and relaxing 15 mins that was! Fantastic info and engaging presentation. I learnt so much that will help me. Thanks
Fantastic pay it forward and help someone else
Very informative as usual, thanks clay for the explanation
Cheers mate
Bernoulli's principle describes what happens with the drag and lift example made with the plane wing.
There is so much great science at work on a wave
Great stuff as always guys!! Hope you're doing well!
Cheers Jay. Had fun seeing your videos as well
Great advice I even ride my long boards this way of course I'm 61 now so my long boards are my short boards.
Stoked you are still charging!
Happy new year and great explanation! What's the best way to train rail to rail surfing? Surfskating in a bowl?
Try a smaller board and do it lying down. This makes it easier to lean and will help keep you in the energy of the wave. Then repeat standing up
Thanks!
No problem!
Some knowledge to be had here.... Always awesome vids.
Thanks Tim
Outstanding explanations!
Thankyou
thank a lot, very clear insights, hopes it helps everybody flow. Great.
That’s the idea
Great explanation and second the Bob Ross comment! Would be interesting to explain the dynamics of the the board and fins separately in a more in-depth video, because you have many different principles in effect between the two at different times, like board flex/spring when bottom turning and fins flex/spring when pumping down the line.
The two parts I think should be described differently is the fin toe in and fin lift. With fin toe in I think of it as increasing turn radius by counter steer, and moving center of the turn towards the center of gravity on the board (imagine a car that steers with all four wheels vs steering with just front wheels.)
With fin lift, the lift is on the whole fin perpendicular to the foil, giving you increased hold on a bottom turn and pulling you up and forward when engaged on rail in the tube.
Have to keep it simple for the masses. There is only so much we can squeeze in
Great video. Thank you as always, Clayton and team.
Cheers
that's exaaaactly what I needed ! thanks !!!
Glad it helped!
Wow this makes so much sense.Definitely a a game changer for me .Keep up with the great work .I have learned so much from all your videos.🤙
Great to hear!
What a great video 🙌
Thanks
Gold information! Thank you!
Stoked you liked it.
Thanks so much for this one. Very helpful. I found the drain analogy very interesting as a powder hound. As all powder hounds know, the best transition is found on the deadly tree wells, (which are to be avoided obviously unless you know what you're doing). Comparing the circle of the drain to the wave makes good sense from my perspective and I'm gonna keep paddling here in Bali until I can speak wave like I speak mountain!
That’s the spirit
Enjoyed this one! 🙏🔥🔥🔥
Glad to hear that!
So important for me right now thank you 😊
Glad it helped
thank you for your effort mate of putting into words things that are unexplainable
My pleasure! I love this stuff
@ombesurf "do what you love and love what you do" right on thanks for sharing you know goes back to you 10 fold best wishes to you for 2025 and beyond
Great video and thank you for the info!
Thanks for the feedback
Great video! I think this was very interesting! Especially the science behind it. So can I ask now that I understand the whole rail to rail game, how do i go onto my heel side rail without falling backwards. I can do a half decent bottom turn but as soon as I come up the wave I try to turn my head and lean onto my heels but !Splat! i fall straight onto my ass :(
Twist from the hips and more weight forward to contend with acceleration
thank you very much 🙌
Glad you liked it
You are great at teaching, thank you for sharing this wisdom.
Happy new year!
Happy New Year. Glad you enjoyed it.
Amazing. Can you do a similar video to this on how to ride a fish?
Hi. Comanda and Bernoulli effect are different. At some points of the video are mix up
Coanda
Coanda is the flow of liquid or air overs a curved surface.
我知道浪的水流方向 但卻從未想過去利用它 太讚啦
It works so well
I want to surf on rail but I can't figure out the technique. Can it be learnt on small waves? Snowboarding is easy because you just lean over your toes or sit back over your heels. This doesn't work for surfing.
Smaller waves give you less room for engaging the rails, they usually break faster and with a much smaller area from the pocket to the flat part of the shoulder.
I find it a lot easier on bigger, slower moving waves that run nice and clean. It gives you more time and control while figuring out the lean and learning to 'trust the hold'.
Smaller surf usually requires you to be much more reactive and precise - depends heavily on the board and riding style though.
Also, reef / point breaks help a lot with predictability (repetition) as opposed to most beach breaks.
You need to have more speed and power or else you can’t lean over the rail
@@UnintentionalMexicandefinitely
@@ombesurf Cheers to you guys for not just pumping out content and ads like many others, but going out of your way to engage with your viewers even on YT comments for the sake of understanding.
It truly shows what makes OMBE stand out from all the rest: your natural connectedness (both in and out of the water) as well as your deep rooted ambition to spread the word and the spirit. It strongly resonates with me and many others and is well appreciated.
Happy New Year and all the best to you, maybe we'll get to share a few some day!
I find seeing the lines to draw difficult to see in my mind, on a dynamic wave. Do you have a video on this?
Google brachistones curves
amazing video as always. What happened to the ombe podcast, I miss it :(
Been too busy with YT new facility and surf trips
An aircraft will rely on both lift from the wing foil and angle of attack . Surfboards and fins also. Sharp hard stall angles get moderated by curves.
True
would you call domey or whatever the spelling the board you have in your hands early in the video :?
Yes or a rolled deck
@ombesurf Thanks. So thinner rails possible isn't. Recently saw close up John John's one of his zillion boards and boy was that thin
3rd. Happy NYE
Happy NYE to you too!
Why rail to rail? To generate, maintain and scrub velocity so as to remain in or near the pocket. You can quite literally remove the fins from the equation and the basal principle of rail to rail becomes more apparent.
Exactly but haters will say otherwise because they surf flat. Love finless surfing
Background music is unnecessary. Kinda distracting.
Nah it'll be fine
Noted any suggestions
I think drop it down to -28 dB. As a background music it's great, just a little too loud.
Agree, only because when you’re trying to get your head around new concepts, (like the science behind fins and rails) the music is distracting and makes it harder to concentrate.
Well for me at least 🤷♂️😂
Agreed too! Love the video otherwise 👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you , I have learnt much today
You are very welcome
Putting a hydrofoil on the bottom of a surfboard is by far the best way to reduce drag. It is literally like having a miniature airplane under your feet. It makes the waves being surfed feel like they are significantly larger and more powerful when compared to traditional surfing. If you live in an area with smaller surf, it may completely change the way your think about surfing rail to rail. Just saying...........
It’s not the surface but the energy below
Great information. Ditch the background music please.
Not lovin it!
First