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Very nice, good joob You have plan pdf?

Fantastic

Thanks Robert. I just nabbed one of these on eBay - scarce as hens teeth!

Man, that Is very good!! Can you give project to make One???

Hey thank you.👍🐳 Well Done.

Excellent job of demonstrating the design

im confused what was doing the actual cutting and being cut while mounted on the face plate? ( dont mind me im extremely ignorant and trying to fix that heh )

Where did you find that metal pan for your lathe?

CNC baby

Do the gears themselves ever wear out?

Very interesting. Good work.

Lovely video, also very satisfying and interesting steps and procedures as to how to go about making a clock. Ill leave that to the experts like you. However im curious as to how you choose threads for screws on clocks are they different or similar in threads as to what we normally get in engineering supplies

Hi Bob, I hope you get this wherever you are. Thank you so much for your generosity. Your inspirational videos have helped me choose a new path. All the very best, Alan.

Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work

If I bought a specific spiral gear hob is it good for all gear diameters. Would the ratio between the hob and spindle also be the same?

I love the video!!! I am, if the Lord is willing going to make one of these Eureka Tools. I am making a cutter to cut a gear for my Toolmaster Cincinnati Mill 1959 model, on my lathe. The gear has 16 teeth and is 2.50 Diameter and that comes out to a 6.4 pitch. This gear has a 270H075 timing belt. I think I done that right. Could not find a cutter for the gear so I turned down a piece of oil hardened steel to .375 and put a 20 Deg. cut on the cutting end, then slotted that end. On the other end of the cutter while I got it set up in the mill, I will slot the other end for a set screw and I will be Harding it soon. I gave you a thumbs up and Subscribe to your channel. Goin on to your next video!!

would you be interested in constructing a perfect clock? Most are not designed to be geometrically correct, and they lack micron level tuners. Have you ever tried to make a cycloid? you can reach me through my videos.

Hi, very good explanation, I also read Ivan Law, I decided it was a superb tool but could not easily decipher the drawings. I realise that your article was written a few years ago, so apologies for the lateness of my reply. In the UK there are two 'sets' of taps and dies specifically made to be more suitable to keep the sizes 'in scale' when making scale locomotives etc these revolve around 26, 32 and 40 tpi have a look at 'Tracy Tools' web site (others are also available), for 'Model Engineers' and 'Special Model Engineers' sets of taps and dies, hope this explains why you guys in the USA seem puzzled at the odd 'tpi' used on these projects and it is not done to thwart our cousins in the USA

I know this video was posted a few years ago... A question: You seem to use a lot of clock/watch techniques on this work. Did the original caliper makers oil the pivots, or not? I'm guessing they did not oil the mechanism because of its tendency to attract dirt and the low rate of actual use compared to a clock that runs 24/7.. However, it seems "reasonable" to add some lubrication to the pivot points. Thoughts?

I wonder why the drive motor needs to be down on the end. It could be on the other end OR even a gear motor built into the apron itself. I'd like to see a joystick for direction and speed.

Hi Bob, looks like this vid has been on for a while now but I've only just stumbled on it. You and the other guys you mention never cease to amaze me, how you do all this with camera work as well is beyond me. Anyhow, I'm about to attempt this project and have recently powered up the X on my mill with success and I intend to do the same setup on the lathe. The only difference to your setup basically is the drive belt. After a crash on a former mill where I used a mini chain drive (bad mistake but luckily only bent motor shaft, no actual machine damage. Phew.) I now use rubber round belt 1/4 inch as used on industrial sewing machine (cheap as chips and many sizes) on aluminium pulleys. The good thing about these belts is if tensioned correctly will grip pulleys good enough to do that fine finish were after and at same time will slip in the event of a crash. So you can actually come up to a carriage stop without worrying. My tension device is a simple slotted bracket and thumb nut. You can still use hand wheels but if necessary the stretchable rubber allows you to disengage the belt easily. It's worked for me on mill so I think it should on lathe. I m wondering if anyone else has done it this way . Possibly of interest: the motor (complete with gearbox) is from a roller shutter door. Through transformer and speed controller and two way switch. Will add another comment after this project. Thanks for sharing your projects. Alan.

If you didnt have the obnoxious music we could probably hear your wispering !

Excellent video as always. Where did you purchase your bell matal lap from? Having a hard time finding a bell metal or tin lap for final polish. Thank you!

Very nice your atechment thanks for your information

Thanks you so much

Just bought one, what kind of oil do you use?

Epic build ❤

Most excellent.

Most excellent.

Most excellent.

Most excellent.

Hi Robert, Thank you for this awesome video . I now got a better understanding about how to make those gear and adjustment . Great video again .

Can’t thank you enough for the training.

Most excellent.

Nagyon tanulságos, köszönöm kitűnő oktatást, 👍👍👍

sweet

Really good information here, thank you. My only criticism is the background music is very bad and distracting. I'd actually rather no music than this. But that's just a preference and not enough to keep me from watching 👍

Nice!

I used two screwdrivers to pry off the hand needle indicator. The tension in the spring clip holding it made the needle fly off to somewhere in my workshop. Todate I still have not found it, and that was 4 years ago. Any ideas where I could get a replacement, maybe use a second hand off an old watch but not successsful so far

hello I wanted to know what material did you use to build the cutter?

I'm needing an escape wheel made. Is that something I could commission you to do?

Really well done

The instructions talk about two offsets, you only did one. It appears you had no issue using the device. Any idea why the second offset (0.030") wasn't needed? You did add it to the center hole, but the instructions almost make it seem like it is on the final two steps as well. Thank you. Following your videos for the build.

At 21:50, you start cleaning with alcohol & a stiff-bristle brush. What kind of alcohol? Denatured or isopropyl? If robertt4522 doesn't see this to answer, do any of you other viewers know?

Great work

im a machinist but know nothing about clocks but why cant you use involute gears for a clock

You.... again, seems everytime I search for advise I end up here. :-). I am not making a clock, but I will watch and give it a try. Hopefully finishing a ratchet.

Such a nice machine, I'm tempted to have a go and make one but a simpler version 👍

That was amazing!!! Thank you for all the time and effort that you have put into making this and all your other videos….Bob

Hello, interesting video. A cuestion: What material did to made the tool mill?. Thank You.