GREAT to be here. Who would have thought a reverse of a plate was an issue, you thought it through guess you marked the side of the ratchet plate so that would never happen again glad you figured that out it had to be tough, certainly not obvious to solve reassembling that Eureka. Nice to see you square the material a bit more through the surface grinder, a tool we are working to get here, it is just needed along with a real (our first) heat treat oven. You sure do great work, we are so happy to know your channel. What a really nice tool you created that cut a really clean gear. Lance & Patrick.
Thanks guys...I'm really jealous...a heat treat oven...I've been going to auctions looking for one...but my little fire brick set up and glass baton works great for the reamers and broaches I make...next video (button tool) I'll show you an arbor I case hardened when it kept tightening up...biggest item I've ever case hardened...surface grinder is a nice addition...but then you'll need a Grind-all attachment...it never ends...bob...just thought of something...I used the bluing solution on an old Carl Weiss stero microscope I rebuilt years ago...the slide on the lathe and the attaching parts...came out real sweet...bob
Your more then welcome...this is a great learning experience...the learning curve is rather steep...I have 5 more blanks I plan to put through the Eureka tool as time allows...and I'll put together some clips of the button tool and end the project with some gear cutting...bob
G’day Bob, good video well presented. I’m intrigued with the tools action to shape the gear cutter teeth, also I didn’t think the alcohol flame would have been hot enough, you just have to be patient. Cheers Peter
G'Day Peter..with a torch or something hotter I have a hard time getting all the cutter tips light straw at the same time...I just finished a second cutter today...I'm going to get a .5 inch (sorry no meters this side of pond) steel about 5-6 inches long and slide the cutter on the steel and heat the said steel with a torch about 2-5 inches from the cutters location and hopefully the heat from the pipe will radiate to the cutter tips...that's the plan anyway...she'll be right...Cheers...bob
@@robertt-cs8fe That idea that you just suggested is a very good thought. Just slowly rotate as you heat the rod and you should get even heat transfer out to where it is needed and nice even tempering of all the teeth. Wonderful series on this tool and its use Bob. Many thanks from John, Australia.
Thanks John...I'm new to tempering multi point cutters...I usually just harden them...I make clock gears from brass...but these involute are a different breed...might want to cut a steel gear now and then so I figure I better learn to temper and how to sharpen a gear cutter too...my first attempt at sharpening (in the video) I used a sharpening stone I use on my watchmaker's lathe and it wobbled a bit on my mill but did the job...today I heated the stone off the lacquer arbor and made a proper arbor...been a good day...bob
Hey Bob, don’t worry about the imperial, I was schooled imperial and the year I started work we converted to metric so us older guys will often speak with forked tongue (sorry is that politically correct) I prefer metric but when I’m down to the minute measurements I prefer though” it just feels smaller at .001” than.025mm. Funny thing is Wikipedia, if I recall says USA went metric in the 70s but your preferred measurements is imperial, stubborn lot. Cheers Peter
Hi Bob, sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Been pretty busy here lately. At first I was wondering why the back rake was not being developed with the tool, then realized that the root of the cutter was passing between the buttons. Dummy me! After the tuning of the tool is done it looks like it performed the job pretty well. What size lathe do you have? Looks like a 6 inch Atlas? I am quite interested in seeing the button cutter made and cutting the profile on your blank on the small lathe. You have done a great job on this series Bob, thank so much for taking the time to make the videos. Trust me, you are the reigning champ for the Eureka tool!!! :-) Joe
Thanks Joe...I got a collection of lathes here, including a small CNC I'll be using to produce the buttons, but all the Eureka stuff is done on a 6" Atlas (my BIG lathe)...got lots of button tool video...need some AutoCAD work...and I want to run the math on some other size lathe change gears...you know the pitch and maybe the pressure angle of your lathe's change gears?...just want to size some buttons cause I got a feeling anything bigger then 24 DP the buttons may need modification...not positive...not sure of the fit to the Eureka tool either...I have now made 4 cutters and feel much more confident using the Eureka tool...next video...bob
Good morning and compliments for your video: M making a gear by myself with a Myford dividing head , could you please explain me how to calculate the external diameter of the cutter please? the other equations i understand, thank you in advance !! Alberto
The external diameter of the cutter depends on how many teeth you plan to make...I used 1.25" in that video as I wanted 12 teeth and the Eureka Tool requires a 1.25" cutter size...but I use a 10 tooth cutter with a diameter of 1" to make clock gears and .75" diameter 10 tooth cutters for watches...bob
Dear Mr Robertt, I loved your work, but I have a question: should the final eccentricity be done on both ends or just on the side of the nut? Thank You for replay.
Yes, I see what you're talking about, it does look Warn. At one point 16:28 there, it looks like I can see it moving, l thank the tell stock was loose.
Can’t thank you enough for the training.
GREAT to be here. Who would have thought a reverse of a plate was an issue, you thought it through guess you marked the side of the ratchet plate so that would never happen again glad you figured that out it had to be tough, certainly not obvious to solve reassembling that Eureka. Nice to see you square the material a bit more through the surface grinder, a tool we are working to get here, it is just needed along with a real (our first) heat treat oven.
You sure do great work, we are so happy to know your channel. What a really nice tool you created that cut a really clean gear. Lance & Patrick.
Thanks guys...I'm really jealous...a heat treat oven...I've been going to auctions looking for one...but my little fire brick set up and glass baton works great for the reamers and broaches I make...next video (button tool) I'll show you an arbor I case hardened when it kept tightening up...biggest item I've ever case hardened...surface grinder is a nice addition...but then you'll need a Grind-all attachment...it never ends...bob...just thought of something...I used the bluing solution on an old Carl Weiss stero microscope I rebuilt years ago...the slide on the lathe and the attaching parts...came out real sweet...bob
Very nice to watch Robert! Good to see that we still have people around who will have the perseverance to do this, not many left 😐
Thanks Donald...this has been a good project...bob
Another fascinating and informative video thanks. Brilliant work and a pleasure to watch.
Thanks Don...glad you're back...bob
Robert, that's real interesting to see how that tool you made works. Thanks for the video and the explanation.
Your more then welcome...this is a great learning experience...the learning curve is rather steep...I have 5 more blanks I plan to put through the Eureka tool as time allows...and I'll put together some clips of the button tool and end the project with some gear cutting...bob
As always, very impressive work. Take care Robert
Thanks Randy...bob
Good video. Great idea with the back plate. Think I will make one. Looking forward to the video on the button cutter.
Thanks Manick...got a couple more cutters to complete...but I've got most of the button tool video ready...got some AutoCAD work to do...bob
Thanks for the video. I'm finding your work very interesting and enjoyable to watch.
Thanks for watching Brian...I do enjoy sharing...bob
Great result! Thanks for sharing
Thanks JBF...G'Day...bob
Congratulations!!!!!!! Beautiful tool!!!!!
Thanks Samuel...I'm gonna be posting the button tool video soon...I take it, like me, you enjoy tools...bob
@@robertt-cs8fe I also make some tools, I made a boring head style steel wohlhaupter 1045, I like being a tool maker
@@robertt-cs8fe What steel do you use? did you use borax to heat treatment?
I just visited your channel...will have a better look tonight...bob
I used mainly 1018 cold rolled steel...some parts case hardened with Cherry Red.
Most excellent.
Whatan awesome little mechanism
thanks
Looking forward to the next video. I
I'll start on it soon...bob
Button tool next huna, cool can't wait!
button tool plunge cut to form the circumference form is quite a steep learning curve...bob
G’day Bob, good video well presented. I’m intrigued with the tools action to shape the gear cutter teeth, also I didn’t think the alcohol flame would have been hot enough, you just have to be patient.
Cheers
Peter
G'Day Peter..with a torch or something hotter I have a hard time getting all the cutter tips light straw at the same time...I just finished a second cutter today...I'm going to get a .5 inch (sorry no meters this side of pond) steel about 5-6 inches long and slide the cutter on the steel and heat the said steel with a torch about 2-5 inches from the cutters location and hopefully the heat from the pipe will radiate to the cutter tips...that's the plan anyway...she'll be right...Cheers...bob
@@robertt-cs8fe That idea that you just suggested is a very good thought. Just slowly rotate as you heat the rod and you should get even heat transfer out to where it is needed and nice even tempering of all the teeth. Wonderful series on this tool and its use Bob. Many thanks from John, Australia.
Thanks John...I'm new to tempering multi point cutters...I usually just harden them...I make clock gears from brass...but these involute are a different breed...might want to cut a steel gear now and then so I figure I better learn to temper and how to sharpen a gear cutter too...my first attempt at sharpening (in the video) I used a sharpening stone I use on my watchmaker's lathe and it wobbled a bit on my mill but did the job...today I heated the stone off the lacquer arbor and made a proper arbor...been a good day...bob
Hey Bob, don’t worry about the imperial, I was schooled imperial and the year I started work we converted to metric so us older guys will often speak with forked tongue (sorry is that politically correct) I prefer metric but when I’m down to the minute measurements I prefer though” it just feels smaller at .001” than.025mm. Funny thing is Wikipedia, if I recall says USA went metric in the 70s but your preferred measurements is imperial, stubborn lot. Cheers Peter
Us Yanks don't give in easy...I spent 20 years overseas and I'm kinda okay with metric but Celsius is just confusing :)
Parabéns ! Muito bom obrigado.
obrigado Jesse...bob
Thank you for video.
Nice. Thanks
Hey Jim...thanks...bob
Hi Bob, sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Been pretty busy here lately. At first I was wondering why the back rake was not being developed with the tool, then realized that the root of the cutter was passing between the buttons. Dummy me! After the tuning of the tool is done it looks like it performed the job pretty well. What size lathe do you have? Looks like a 6 inch Atlas? I am quite interested in seeing the button cutter made and cutting the profile on your blank on the small lathe. You have done a great job on this series Bob, thank so much for taking the time to make the videos. Trust me, you are the reigning champ for the Eureka tool!!! :-)
Joe
Thanks Joe...I got a collection of lathes here, including a small CNC I'll be using to produce the buttons, but all the Eureka stuff is done on a 6" Atlas (my BIG lathe)...got lots of button tool video...need some AutoCAD work...and I want to run the math on some other size lathe change gears...you know the pitch and maybe the pressure angle of your lathe's change gears?...just want to size some buttons cause I got a feeling anything bigger then 24 DP the buttons may need modification...not positive...not sure of the fit to the Eureka tool either...I have now made 4 cutters and feel much more confident using the Eureka tool...next video...bob
Good morning and compliments for your video: M making a gear by myself with a Myford dividing head , could you please explain me how to calculate the external diameter of the cutter please? the other equations i understand, thank you in advance !! Alberto
The external diameter of the cutter depends on how many teeth you plan to make...I used 1.25" in that video as I wanted 12 teeth and the Eureka Tool requires a 1.25" cutter size...but I use a 10 tooth cutter with a diameter of 1" to make clock gears and .75" diameter 10 tooth cutters for watches...bob
Dear Mr Robertt, I loved your work, but I have a question: should the final eccentricity be done on both ends or just on the side of the nut? Thank You for replay.
it looks like the center at the tailstock side is wallowing out?
The center is offset at tell stock, I believe that's what you're seeing.
@@tillmanxl6914 have a look at 16:50, the material is coming out laterally
the center is offset .030" to allow for in and out that provides the relief...bob
that is the offset at work...bob
Yes, I see what you're talking about, it does look Warn. At one point 16:28 there, it looks like I can see it moving, l thank the tell stock was loose.