I cannot even imagine a machinist's school that would teach this more properly for tuition than what we have here for the price of watching a couple of ads.
Machinist school doesn't teach about hobby tool making. It teach you to use these tools because they are common tool. Exemple I saw available on market look like the multiple tooth gear cutter, bit it has more tooth, and also they are stacked on top of an other (looking like corn lmao). Everything is about producing part fast and using the full potential of machines costing in the 6 digits. Now then it is possible to learn the skills and to apply them to hobby machining, but sadly in school many things are forgotten in the progress of technology. I've gone to mechanical engineering and learnt to do technical drawing on paper, something that seem rare nowadays, so you know what I mean when we loose many skills
A thief breaking into a shed or workshop is usually only interested in stealing portable power tools - drills, routers, spare battery packs - little realising that the true value lies in tools like this. Lovely work, Chris.
@@mpetersen6I knew someone who built up an entire machine shop from government surplus auctions and had to give it all back for two years because the items were never properly written off before going to auction.
It's always so fun watching your videos, Chris! You have a certain kind of positivity and interest that is always pleasant to hear. Your work is really good, and I hope that you continue to enjoy what it is that you do. 😁
Stunning craftsmanship. I’ve worked in precision engineering for 30 years and you don’t see this attention to detail often, if at all; and it’s all in a home workshop.
I've been a machinist since the early 70's and have seen a done a lot of things, but your skill, knowledge and craftmanship never fails to impress me,,thank you sir👍👍👍👍
It is astonishing to me what you’re able to create in your workshop. The knowledge and patience to do it in the first place coupled with incredible filming and natural teaching style is a joy to watch. I’m unlikely to ever need to make a gear like that and I’m now 30min late to work and I still consider it time well spent. Thank you for showing what is possible through application and dedication. Absolutely love your channel!
30:40 This is the payoff shot was was waiting for the whole video. Seeing 2 finished gears spin together, especially with the mixed color metals was so satisfying.
I second everyone else, I went to machine shop classes in the 80’s and they didn’t cover this like you did. Thank you Chris. Even if I never cut a gear all knowledge is good.
Dad says he has a man in his machine shop he hired 12 years ago that makes cutters for him; he can look at the metal, look at the order sheet and eyeball the parts into cutters on the machines. It’s actually freaking amazing.
All I can say is "WOW"!!! Now all those ancient magazine articles I have downloaded discussing making gear cutters make sense. And now I see that for cutting very small gears with fine teeth, this method is necessary... Thanks again
As someone experiencing summer in the northern hemisphere we need more instructions on "Flycutters" 😀I am as always in awe of your skills. Seeing you work somewhat demystifies how we got our achievements done. I am a mere electrician, not much space for creativity there... for a damn good reason i might ad 😀 I however had the opportunity to work with some lathes, mills and grinders. We were trained to aim for the 1/500mm.
Years ago when I machined barrels for John Martz the Luger carbine maker from Lincoln, CA , they had to have a relief tool made similar to the gear cutters here. I took a keyseat cutter of the correct width and placed it in a collet in my endmill grinding machine and used a thin silicon carbide green grinding wheel and/or Aluminum Oxide and radiused the correct form and ground one side then the other. Because I used a keyseat cutter to begin with the correct cutting geometry was already there I just cut the form and I did one cutter in M2 tool steel and Carbide. All that was left was to set my barrel in a jig that presented the top rear of the chamber to the cutter and I found center and began cutting. Working on parts for John Martz and his Luger carbines I made alot of form tools from Woodruff keyseat cutters mainly because they had cutting teeth from six (6) teeth to twenty four (24) teeth and the finish they gave to the formed design of the part for the Luger carbine was very clean, smooth and without chatter. Everything wound up in a compartment in a cabinet with a description on the box with the jig, special cutter and picture of the part made by the tools. It was complicated somewhat but not nearly as much as the method used by Clickspring. I also didn't have any hardening of the cutter to do.
This is some seriously good filming and subject manner. I have yet to hear a voice over that's better. Combine that with the different tracks of music and shop sound. Impressive.
Chris, as always another display of the the complete package here in this video. The mastery of your various crafts, toolmaking, videography and your ability to communicate it all clearly for others to follow and enjoy! Second to none mate 👍
I love this series, Chris! An additional tip for my fellow viewers: it's important to make sure your sharpening stones stay flat as they wear. Get yourself a flattening stone when you buy your first (or next) sharpening stone, & use it before every sharpening session. This can help steer clear of some pernicious angle and finish problems.
Excelent video best I have ever seen clear and to the point with the cost of tooling it is the only way to go make your own thanks will look put for your videos
I think it's awesome how you can make one tool have multiple functions, like the arbor in this video and your sharpening tool in a previous one...which (spoiler alert) seems to be designed to sharpen this involute cutter as well.
Same as the others, but what I'd like to add is that I really enjoy the music selection in this one. It's easy on the ears and unobtrusive, and I kinda actually want to find the(se) artist(s) and binge more of their tracks.
Simple question from a simple mind...mine. Absolutely love your videos since Antikythera. I can only work crudely with wood so highly value my tools....and you make tools! My question is “how does an oil stone remain true”?
a form tool is shaped for cutting a form. such as an involute. threads. etc. a formed tool is back relieved in a way so when sharpened, no special consideration is required to keep the form correct. when form tools are relieved to a straight clearance angle, the shape changes as you grind back for sharpening and setting up is tricky... like putting back rake on a threading tool, you change the profile of the thread.
Love your work mate, one thing I've learnt when sharpening using stones is to routinely resurface the stone face using a diamond plate as the stone tends to hollow out quickly from routine sharpening meaning the edge is not true. A few swipes with a grey led pencil then honed on the diamond plate will show when the stone becomes true.
Chris you have an incredible mind and hands of the same calibre. These videos have been really great for me to learn how certain geometries can be made using machining, Im loving the series, got a question for you regarding making the fly cutter, does the distance of the cutter from the centre point (effective cutting diameter)have any effect on the cut? The only thing i can think of is a change in relief angle? Thanks again
Really love this video series. Now I'd be interested in how well the teeth mesh with eachother. Or having a pair of these gears shown running together under power would be the ultimate proof of functionality. Hope we get that in the next video.
Thanks, Chris, for another hypnotizing video. I'm hoping these tools are going to be used to create the Antikythera Mechanism gear train that locates rifts in spacetime and allows you to visit its maker, Archimedes.
Hey Chris, exceptional work in every aspect as per usual. Thank you for the inspiration to get better and better at the stuff that I do. As a Sydney-sider I have been meaning to ask you for some time now as to where you get your material supplies like steel and brass etc that you use in your projects when I spotted the label from the Hales company. Are there others that you would recommend for price and quality here in Oz as I am early in my metalworking journey spending most of my life working with beautiful timbers and using metal in very limited quantities for accenting etc but am looking to expand my skills having bought a small lathe and mill a few years ago but mainly unused as my wife developed leukaemia a few weeks after I finished placing and roughly setting up the tools and thus our world of necessity stopped. Now, just over three years since her death, I find myself starting over again in lots of areas including this. So I thought that I’d ask, as well as to simply thank you for being such a fine instructor and such a deeply skilled craftsman in so many areas and for being such a gentle influence and inspiration for a bloke who at 62 and forced to retire early due to health issues and who is very grateful for what you do. Take care Chris, see ya and if you’re ever in Oatley, we’ve got a great little local pub here, best staff and quality and food in Sydney I reckon, well, apart from the RSL here which has great food and staff of equal quality as well, first rounds are on me mate . . . 😎👍
Hello Phil, great to hear from you - I get silver steel (aka 'drill rod') from Blackwoods, Hales for the gage plate, mild steel plate etc and many other 'small order' materials from ejwinter.com.au/ I also pick up the odd interesting bits and pieces from local machine shops, and for casting hit up the scrap places for copper, aluminium etc - Cheers mate :)
I don't think you make errors, I think your possibly not human!!! incredible workmanship and exceptionally articulate in the way you work through the process. If a multitooth cutter created the way you have done and used appropriately as you described, how many cuts (of lets say 5mm in length) in steel would you expect roughly before the edges would need resharpening? How much material can you take off the cutter for resharpening before the cutter needs to be replaced? Cheers
Wow, what a fantastic comprehensive process. One question I had-- when you're cutting a fly cutter, do you have to have additional cross-slide infeed to account for the tool being below centerline? Or is it one of those things that just doesn't matter in practice.
I'm really impressed. Need to cut gears for watches and getting lots of ideas here. Question. With a round nose end mill do you think you can reproduce the button cutters? I've a mill and a watchmakers lathe, but not a big lathe.
Could you, theoretically, make the button holder with either HSS instead of HCS and speed up the process that way? Or moreover, make the buttons from carbide (providing you can shape them with some semblance of accuracy) to allow you to make the tooth cutter from a HSS blank? Forgive my ignorance if this is a stupid question, I am not a machinist or anything approaching but would be interested in the practicality of this
This arbor could be helpful in making gear hobs as well. Most home shops don't do gear hobbing, but it is quite a bit faster than single-tooth cutting. DIY hobbing attachments are possible, e.g. Andy's Machines shows how he made one (and makes his own hobs).
I'm somewhat frustrated. I am unable to locate the sizes of O1 tool steel you use. For example, the inch drawings indicate the tool steel for the cutter blanks is to be 1.043 inches square but how thick is the material? Ditto, how thick are the blanks you machine for the rope knurls? This is a frequent frustration when trying to follow your incredible teachings. I sincerely appreciate the effort you put into your videos. Please keep them coming! Very Respectfully, Michel
Hey Michel, for the cutter blanks, the raw stock thickness is going to be driven by the data you get from the calculator (Optimum Cutter Thickness + your choice of margin). I do mostly small module horological work, so I generally use a 5mm gage plate stock, and then trim if required. If you're going for a larger module, you'll require something thicker. Pop a few different numbers into the calculator and you'll see what I mean. A similar thing applies for the rope knurls. I used approx. 9mm stock, but you can use whatever will accommodate the knurl size you intend to make, and according to what you can source. Generally, (and assuming I didn't simply forget to include it) if I don't specify a dimension, it's something that you will need to select yourself according to your own personal application of the process - Cheers :)
@@Clickspring Hi Chris. Thank you for the very prompt reply and additional information. It is useful. Your gear calculator file, Involute Spur page, when I switch Gear Systems between Module and DP, all the calculated dimensions change to inches except one. The "Cutter Width w:" value changes but not to an accurate inch value of the metric equivalent. Also, a followup question from above, approximately what outer diameter did you turn the knob blanks before applying the rope knurl finish?
Chris, I've been following you since first seeing your work on the Antikythera Mechanism, and it's always world class, along with the way all of your videos are presented. Can I ask a question that you, or and anyone who has more knowledge on this than me, can answer. Wouldn't you be better off sharpening the tools then hardening them? My mind says that would be the logical way because then the sharpened edge is hardened once sharp and therefore should last longer, or does that make it too brittle and therefore better to sharpen after hardening so the edges don't break so easily?
@@Clickspring Maybe a short (not vertical) video about your stones and how to take care of them? I remember that you have mentioned your stones through your videos but I don't remeber a dedicated one. And arren't stones also tools? ;)
I cannot even imagine a machinist's school that would teach this more properly for tuition than what we have here for the price of watching a couple of ads.
It's a lifetime of tool and dye architecture 😮
@@bertradmacher2623 need a tap and dye and some dubya dee forty
Machinist school doesn't teach about hobby tool making.
It teach you to use these tools because they are common tool.
Exemple I saw available on market look like the multiple tooth gear cutter, bit it has more tooth, and also they are stacked on top of an other (looking like corn lmao).
Everything is about producing part fast and using the full potential of machines costing in the 6 digits.
Now then it is possible to learn the skills and to apply them to hobby machining, but sadly in school many things are forgotten in the progress of technology. I've gone to mechanical engineering and learnt to do technical drawing on paper, something that seem rare nowadays, so you know what I mean when we loose many skills
Hold strong and never pay for RUclips premium
@@stuartbutler7452 I'm questioning myself right now whether or not that is irony.
Chris, Your close up cinematography is first rate. I love it when I see the tool marks and they are sharp and infects. Brilliant man!
A thief breaking into a shed or workshop is usually only interested in stealing portable power tools - drills, routers, spare battery packs - little realising that the true value lies in tools like this. Lovely work, Chris.
I knew one gentleman that had his lathe stolen out of garage.
@@mpetersen6I knew someone who built up an entire machine shop from government surplus auctions and had to give it all back for two years because the items were never properly written off before going to auction.
The value (for the theif) is in the genetic fencing price. Not something single purpose and recognisable.
Shop i worked at had the carbide insert box bolted to the floor. It was the most valueable thing that 1-2 people could lift out of the shop by hand
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind, He should have charged them for storage for the two years that he had them. Lol
Chris these are my absolute favorite of all your types of video's. Tools tools glorious tools ya baby
This is insane quality... and those graphs over still images are wonderful... thanks!
It's always so fun watching your videos, Chris! You have a certain kind of positivity and interest that is always pleasant to hear. Your work is really good, and I hope that you continue to enjoy what it is that you do. 😁
Your thumbnail test gives me shivers all through my body
Makes me rub my nail for hours after, can't bear it
Gorgeous music and cinematography ❤
This is one of the highest quality “how-to” videos ever created. Thank you @clickspring from the bottoms of our hearts.
This easily was one of the most beautiful and best filmed videos I have seen on YT, ever. Eye-wateringly beautiful in fact. Thank you!!
Infinitas gracias por poder ver tu trabajo son fantásticosssssss cada día aprendo un poco más repito mil gracias por compartir
Stunning craftsmanship. I’ve worked in precision engineering for 30 years and you don’t see this attention to detail often, if at all; and it’s all in a home workshop.
I've been a machinist since the early 70's and have seen a done a lot of things, but your skill, knowledge and craftmanship never fails to impress me,,thank you sir👍👍👍👍
It is astonishing to me what you’re able to create in your workshop. The knowledge and patience to do it in the first place coupled with incredible filming and natural teaching style is a joy to watch. I’m unlikely to ever need to make a gear like that and I’m now 30min late to work and I still consider it time well spent. Thank you for showing what is possible through application and dedication. Absolutely love your channel!
I've been watching your content for years. Outstanding work!
Thank you mate, terrific to have watching :)
30:40 This is the payoff shot was was waiting for the whole video. Seeing 2 finished gears spin together, especially with the mixed color metals was so satisfying.
Great work as always . It is so pleasurable to watch such a great craftsman work .
I second everyone else, I went to machine shop classes in the 80’s and they didn’t cover this like you did. Thank you Chris. Even if I never cut a gear all knowledge is good.
Dad says he has a man in his machine shop he hired 12 years ago that makes cutters for him; he can look at the metal, look at the order sheet and eyeball the parts into cutters on the machines.
It’s actually freaking amazing.
Is his name Tony? Lol
Incredible the amount of work that goes into making something like this!
That sharpening jig is so cool!
Knowledge, Skill and Patience 👍🏻
Just awesome Chris.
Thank you Sir 😊
ngl -- Your videos, background tunes, voice, and machining perfection are ASMR to me.
All I can say is "WOW"!!! Now all those ancient magazine articles I have downloaded discussing making gear cutters make sense. And now I see that for cutting very small gears with fine teeth, this method is necessary... Thanks again
As someone experiencing summer in the northern hemisphere we need more instructions on "Flycutters" 😀I am as always in awe of your skills.
Seeing you work somewhat demystifies how we got our achievements done.
I am a mere electrician, not much space for creativity there... for a damn good reason i might ad 😀
I however had the opportunity to work with some lathes, mills and grinders. We were trained to aim for the 1/500mm.
Привет, Крис. Ваши видео имеют практически терапевтический характер. Это невероятно. Благодарю вас.
Fascinating as always, Chris! You are not only a master of your craft, but also an excellent teacher.
That is some seriously fine machine work.
That zero backlash on the rack and gear is just beautiful. As always, a master class.
been a fan for many years - love your videos and learning all the processes needed for each machining job. i feel smarter for just watching them.
Thanks!
Cheers Ian!
1st Class work Chris, truly amazing skills you have, thanks for sharing, I really enjoyed watching and learning, cheers from me. 😷👍👍👍
This is an invaluable resource and will definitely come damn usefull at some Point. Thank you for this series.
Even though i´m basicly a toolmaker, i´ve lerned a lot in your videos how to create divices and tools. Thanks for your nice videos :)
You are the public face of math, meets art, meets science, meets teaching. Thank you for sharing.
Years ago when I machined barrels for John Martz the Luger carbine maker from Lincoln, CA , they had to have a relief tool made similar to the gear cutters here. I took a keyseat cutter of the correct width and placed it in a collet in my endmill grinding machine and used a thin silicon carbide green grinding wheel and/or Aluminum Oxide and radiused the correct form and ground one side then the other. Because I used a keyseat cutter to begin with the correct cutting geometry was already there I just cut the form and I did one cutter in M2 tool steel and Carbide. All that was left was to set my barrel in a jig that presented the top rear of the chamber to the cutter and I found center and began cutting. Working on parts for John Martz and his Luger carbines I made alot of form tools from Woodruff keyseat cutters mainly because they had cutting teeth from six (6) teeth to twenty four (24) teeth and the finish they gave to the formed design of the part for the Luger carbine was very clean, smooth and without chatter. Everything wound up in a compartment in a cabinet with a description on the box with the jig, special cutter and picture of the part made by the tools. It was complicated somewhat but not nearly as much as the method used by Clickspring.
I also didn't have any hardening of the cutter to do.
This is some seriously good filming and subject manner. I have yet to hear a voice over that's better. Combine that with the different tracks of music and shop sound. Impressive.
Amazing detailed vid as always Chris another home run ball knocked out the park
Excellent video & information. This (longer) format is much preferred- Thanks!
Chris, as always another display of the the complete package here in this video.
The mastery of your various crafts, toolmaking, videography and your ability to communicate it all clearly for others to follow and enjoy!
Second to none mate 👍
I love this series, Chris! An additional tip for my fellow viewers: it's important to make sure your sharpening stones stay flat as they wear. Get yourself a flattening stone when you buy your first (or next) sharpening stone, & use it before every sharpening session. This can help steer clear of some pernicious angle and finish problems.
You did a wonderful job on this! Thank you for your generosity with your time and knowledge.
So glad you showed the gears meshing.
Yay! Cool !! You do need that maths (triangles) you were taught when you were 12 yrs old. I hope you learned it.
For oxidation protection during heat treatment, my father used stainless foil packets with a bit of paper inside to consume oxygen
That's what I'm used to doing too. But it doesn't always work as good as Id like in my experience, I'll have to try this next time.
Foil pack with a drop of oil inside is my experience.
Hi Chris. Another excellent video.
Chris, it's so good to hear your voice again! It's always a treat to watch your amazing skills at work! Have a wonderful day!
Absolutely fascinating and beautifully filmed, too. Thanks for taking me along.
Díky!
Cheers mate :)
Everything you make turns into pure gold!
Excelent video best I have ever seen clear and to the point with the cost of tooling it is the only way to go make your own thanks will look put for your videos
I think it's awesome how you can make one tool have multiple functions, like the arbor in this video and your sharpening tool in a previous one...which (spoiler alert) seems to be designed to sharpen this involute cutter as well.
Same as the others, but what I'd like to add is that I really enjoy the music selection in this one. It's easy on the ears and unobtrusive, and I kinda actually want to find the(se) artist(s) and binge more of their tracks.
Simple question from a simple mind...mine. Absolutely love your videos since Antikythera. I can only work crudely with wood so highly value my tools....and you make tools! My question is “how does an oil stone remain true”?
outstanding job, outstanding info. if only teachers had time to do this for apprentices.
Awesome series Chris. Thank you for sharing. This is a wonderful addition to the Porter and Law books that I have read.
a form tool is shaped for cutting a form. such as an involute. threads. etc.
a formed tool is back relieved in a way so when sharpened, no special consideration is required to keep the form correct.
when form tools are relieved to a straight clearance angle, the shape changes as you grind back for sharpening and setting up is tricky... like putting back rake on a threading tool, you change the profile of the thread.
Love your work mate, one thing I've learnt when sharpening using stones is to routinely resurface the stone face using a diamond plate as the stone tends to hollow out quickly from routine sharpening meaning the edge is not true. A few swipes with a grey led pencil then honed on the diamond plate will show when the stone becomes true.
Already watched the series long ago on Patreon but its always worth a rewatch!
Clever clever clever! I just love your explanations and videos, brilliant.
Chris you have an incredible mind and hands of the same calibre. These videos have been really great for me to learn how certain geometries can be made using machining, Im loving the series, got a question for you regarding making the fly cutter, does the distance of the cutter from the centre point (effective cutting diameter)have any effect on the cut? The only thing i can think of is a change in relief angle? Thanks again
Those gears are perfect!
This is such a beautiful process. I was just watching a guy make a Eureka mechanism for making gear cutters also.
Outstanding skills and superb commentary/filming 👏👏👌
Cheers Chris
What a fascinating channel.
Great video,Chis.Thank you.
Amazing work as always. I hope you never stop helping me learn!
Really love this video series. Now I'd be interested in how well the teeth mesh with eachother. Or having a pair of these gears shown running together under power would be the ultimate proof of functionality. Hope we get that in the next video.
Thanks, Chris, for another hypnotizing video. I'm hoping these tools are going to be used to create the Antikythera Mechanism gear train that locates rifts in spacetime and allows you to visit its maker, Archimedes.
Excellent video as ever. Always informative and entertaining.
its always mesmerising and relaxing watching these videos.
Great, more than great 👍 👍 I enjoy every second of the video. Hi standard skills.
Hey Chris, exceptional work in every aspect as per usual. Thank you for the inspiration to get better and better at the stuff that I do. As a Sydney-sider I have been meaning to ask you for some time now as to where you get your material supplies like steel and brass etc that you use in your projects when I spotted the label from the Hales company. Are there others that you would recommend for price and quality here in Oz as I am early in my metalworking journey spending most of my life working with beautiful timbers and using metal in very limited quantities for accenting etc but am looking to expand my skills having bought a small lathe and mill a few years ago but mainly unused as my wife developed leukaemia a few weeks after I finished placing and roughly setting up the tools and thus our world of necessity stopped. Now, just over three years since her death, I find myself starting over again in lots of areas including this. So I thought that I’d ask, as well as to simply thank you for being such a fine instructor and such a deeply skilled craftsman in so many areas and for being such a gentle influence and inspiration for a bloke who at 62 and forced to retire early due to health issues and who is very grateful for what you do. Take care Chris, see ya and if you’re ever in Oatley, we’ve got a great little local pub here, best staff and quality and food in Sydney I reckon, well, apart from the RSL here which has great food and staff of equal quality as well, first rounds are on me mate . . . 😎👍
Hello Phil, great to hear from you - I get silver steel (aka 'drill rod') from Blackwoods, Hales for the gage plate, mild steel plate etc and many other 'small order' materials from ejwinter.com.au/ I also pick up the odd interesting bits and pieces from local machine shops, and for casting hit up the scrap places for copper, aluminium etc - Cheers mate :)
Fascinating!
Thank you for doing this for us.
Grest video and wanted to suggest for the potential future projects a benchtop EDM machine done with the Clickspring esthetic.
I don't think you make errors, I think your possibly not human!!! incredible workmanship and exceptionally articulate in the way you work through the process.
If a multitooth cutter created the way you have done and used appropriately as you described, how many cuts (of lets say 5mm in length) in steel would you expect roughly before the edges would need resharpening? How much material can you take off the cutter for resharpening before the cutter needs to be replaced?
Cheers
very nice and accurated job. congrate man.... so talented work
I see the little engraved smiley face you snuck in there @17:28
:)
يا له من عمل وابتكار رائع .. انت فنان كبير
Wow, what a fantastic comprehensive process. One question I had-- when you're cutting a fly cutter, do you have to have additional cross-slide infeed to account for the tool being below centerline? Or is it one of those things that just doesn't matter in practice.
Once again what a great video I like to watch and learn 👍
17:28 This is a happy cutter. Shown by the smiley face near the center hole ;-)
I'm really impressed. Need to cut gears for watches and getting lots of ideas here. Question. With a round nose end mill do you think you can reproduce the button cutters? I've a mill and a watchmakers lathe, but not a big lathe.
Yes there are a lot of ways to vary the basic idea with what you have available. I will cover some of the options in the next two videos - Cheers :)
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and skills - much appreciated! :)
Very nice work, and thank you for all datas, particulary for calculator
You're welcome :)
Smooth as always
Don't be fooled gent's! he's not the casual machinist, he's a damn clocksmith! 🍻
And then some!
(Chris, this is beyond finest craftsmanship)
Could you, theoretically, make the button holder with either HSS instead of HCS and speed up the process that way? Or moreover, make the buttons from carbide (providing you can shape them with some semblance of accuracy) to allow you to make the tooth cutter from a HSS blank?
Forgive my ignorance if this is a stupid question, I am not a machinist or anything approaching but would be interested in the practicality of this
@14:17 I recognise a Moccona jar when I see one =P
I always keep them for reusing
The mirror like finish on the gear teeth is impressive.
This arbor could be helpful in making gear hobs as well. Most home shops don't do gear hobbing, but it is quite a bit faster than single-tooth cutting. DIY hobbing attachments are possible, e.g. Andy's Machines shows how he made one (and makes his own hobs).
Good afternoon to you good sir. Much thanks
The fly cutter section was a nice little addendum. 😂
Maybe one day you’ll have a multi-axis Swiss machining center to marvel at and make incredible parts… even super precise micro scaled parts.
I'm somewhat frustrated. I am unable to locate the sizes of O1 tool steel you use. For example, the inch drawings indicate the tool steel for the cutter blanks is to be 1.043 inches square but how thick is the material? Ditto, how thick are the blanks you machine for the rope knurls? This is a frequent frustration when trying to follow your incredible teachings. I sincerely appreciate the effort you put into your videos. Please keep them coming!
Very Respectfully,
Michel
Hey Michel, for the cutter blanks, the raw stock thickness is going to be driven by the data you get from the calculator (Optimum Cutter Thickness + your choice of margin). I do mostly small module horological work, so I generally use a 5mm gage plate stock, and then trim if required. If you're going for a larger module, you'll require something thicker. Pop a few different numbers into the calculator and you'll see what I mean. A similar thing applies for the rope knurls. I used approx. 9mm stock, but you can use whatever will accommodate the knurl size you intend to make, and according to what you can source. Generally, (and assuming I didn't simply forget to include it) if I don't specify a dimension, it's something that you will need to select yourself according to your own personal application of the process - Cheers :)
@@Clickspring Hi Chris. Thank you for the very prompt reply and additional information. It is useful. Your gear calculator file, Involute Spur page, when I switch Gear Systems between Module and DP, all the calculated dimensions change to inches except one. The "Cutter Width w:" value changes but not to an accurate inch value of the metric equivalent. Also, a followup question from above, approximately what outer diameter did you turn the knob blanks before applying the rope knurl finish?
What would be cool to see would be the use of a strobe light to stop, slow down to cutter head.
Amazing videos as always, what is the name of the blue liquid you are using to later scratch it? Thanks
Лютая вещь ,
режет Зубья сурово!
Я удивляюсь
снова и снова!
Chris, I've been following you since first seeing your work on the Antikythera Mechanism, and it's always world class, along with the way all of your videos are presented. Can I ask a question that you, or and anyone who has more knowledge on this than me, can answer. Wouldn't you be better off sharpening the tools then hardening them? My mind says that would be the logical way because then the sharpened edge is hardened once sharp and therefore should last longer, or does that make it too brittle and therefore better to sharpen after hardening so the edges don't break so easily?
How do you keep the wear of your stones in check? I mean don't they also wear with use? Does sharpening cutters like these cause an uneven stone?
Stones dressed as required, Arkansas for example is dragged over a coarse grit abrasive, sorts it out nicely - Cheers :)
@@Clickspring Maybe a short (not vertical) video about your stones and how to take care of them?
I remember that you have mentioned your stones through your videos but I don't remeber a dedicated one. And arren't stones also tools? ;)
Love love love your videos.