Thanks Randy...I like drill rod mainly so I can get a spectacular polish then temper them to dark blue...but also the screw slot once hardened does not get buggered up easily...I hate getting a clock with buggered up screw slots...bob
Mornin' Peter...things moving right along...helps to have a good cup of coffee to wake me up some and a video to motivate me some...not watching anything this morning going to get an early start in the shop...bob
Lovely video, also very satisfying and interesting steps and procedures as to how to go about making a clock. Ill leave that to the experts like you. However im curious as to how you choose threads for screws on clocks are they different or similar in threads as to what we normally get in engineering supplies
Hi Bob - Looking good - why did you use a spring washer behind the ratchet? I've fitted maintaining-work to my clock, so I've been busy making the detent and the fusee iron this week. It's cool to think that we're 1000's of miles apart, working on our clocks simultaneously! 🤓 Regards from NZ
Mornin' Clive...must be getting warmer on your side of the world this morning...it was about this time I'd start heading down to NZ for cyclone season...tried to make Opua by mid November each year...great memories. The spring washer holds the taper pin securely but it is easily removed by simply pushing in the ratchet and sliding it off...my preferred method of securing with a taper pin. I plan to plant the center wheel this morning...the arbor for the 3rd wheel was completed yesterday...just got the escapement bearings yesterday...things moving right along...bob
No I did not show how the ends were soldered...I've only done one end so when I am ready I'll give you a look at the other end...it is very simple a piece of round brass the hole size with end rounded...brass cable is threaded through and soldered securely...bob
Hi Bob, great video. i love this series. I have a couple of newbie questions. What is boxwood? and when you drilled the hole for the tapered pin, did you follow it with a tapered reamer, or just used the cylindrical hole. When blueing your screw, it seems like I remember someone doing this once in a tray of brass chips. (Clickspring maybe??) Is either method better than the other, or does it just depend on the job at hand? Again, thank you for sharing. Great video. Joe
Hi Joe…your questions are great...Boxwood is a very heavy, tight grain wood, with consistent light yellow color throughout. Suitable for nearly all aspects of model ship building(from Google)…that is where my scrap supply comes from…many years ago I built a copy of the Hanna hull(Hanna was the first ship Washington commissioned into the American Navy...it was a converted Marblehead Tap Heel Schooner…my wife is from Marblehead) the boxwood lap I use is part of a screw polishing set and it is end grain boxwood and is a very nice finishing lap. The hole for tapered pin was measured from the center point of the pin when positioned correctly…I have never tapered a hole…and I never tap them into position very hard…especially when used on the key end of an arbor…I use a spring washer which makes positioning and installing very simple…it is kinda like a screw slot being buggered up…a tapered pin driven home gets kinda buggered up and never returns looking too good…and I do not always have the same color brass pins to match up right…best to always use the original…I’m working on a Seth Thomas movement right now and the face plate is held by tapered pins, no spring washers, so I make sure the hole is positioned vertically and the thick end of the taper is on the top and a very slight tap into position. I use a screw plate for screws but I do have a chip pan to blue hands and other parts…I like my alcohol lamp for heating screws…bit more difficult with the chip pan. Please remember there are lots of ways to complete a task…I kinda go with what I have on hands and have done before. Still playing around with 3d printer...but slacking off a bit on learning Fusion 360...never enough time...bob
Joe I’m sorry, I thought I answered your questions last week when to my surprise I just found your questions unanswered…I must have had a senior moment and not actually posted my response. Boxwood is the traditional watchmaker’s lap in a screw polishing attachment…the boxwood end grain is used as the lapping surface…also model shipmaker’s like it as it can be shaped easily..I made a model ship hull years ago and have a small supply of boxwood I use for polishing things like threads….Last night I cut the oil sinks for the wheels and later on you will see me form a polishing stick especially for oil sinks. I use tapered pins regularly but only use tapered holes where accuracy is concerned…but for securing parts a plain through hole is fine...in fact I like tapered pins as it makes finding the hole easier. I have a bluing pan (maybe 2 or more) I use for hands and other shaped parts…but I use my screwplate and a small alcohol burner for screws as most of the time I am bluing very small screws. Well there you go…I hope I can post this answer correctly…thanks Joe…bob
Model builders use a site like this:www.dlumberyard.com/wood.htmlIf I did not have boxwood left over from the Hannah build I would use popcycle sticks...bob
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Hi Bob. That is looking great. Drill rod to make a screw, interesting.
Thanks Randy...I like drill rod mainly so I can get a spectacular polish then temper them to dark blue...but also the screw slot once hardened does not get buggered up easily...I hate getting a clock with buggered up screw slots...bob
Hi Rob. Another great video. Really enjoying watching your clock take shape.
Thanks Brian...planting the center wheel today with any luck...escapement bearings arrived yesterday...things moving right along...bob
G’day Bob, there is so much intricate work, a pleasure to watch.
Cheers
Peter
Mornin' Peter...things moving right along...helps to have a good cup of coffee to wake me up some and a video to motivate me some...not watching anything this morning going to get an early start in the shop...bob
So gifted
Lovely video, also very satisfying and interesting steps and procedures as to how to go about making a clock. Ill leave that to the experts like you. However im curious as to how you choose threads for screws on clocks are they different or similar in threads as to what we normally get in engineering supplies
Hi Bob - Looking good - why did you use a spring washer behind the ratchet? I've fitted maintaining-work to my clock, so I've been busy making the detent and the fusee iron this week. It's cool to think that we're 1000's of miles apart, working on our clocks simultaneously! 🤓 Regards from NZ
Mornin' Clive...must be getting warmer on your side of the world this morning...it was about this time I'd start heading down to NZ for cyclone season...tried to make Opua by mid November each year...great memories.
The spring washer holds the taper pin securely but it is easily removed by simply pushing in the ratchet and sliding it off...my preferred method of securing with a taper pin.
I plan to plant the center wheel this morning...the arbor for the 3rd wheel was completed yesterday...just got the escapement bearings yesterday...things moving right along...bob
Informative video as always! Do you show anywhere how you attach each end of the fusee cable?
No I did not show how the ends were soldered...I've only done one end so when I am ready I'll give you a look at the other end...it is very simple a piece of round brass the hole size with end rounded...brass cable is threaded through and soldered securely...bob
Hi Bob, great video. i love this series. I have a couple of newbie questions. What is boxwood? and when you drilled the hole for the tapered pin, did you follow it with a tapered reamer, or just used the cylindrical hole. When blueing your screw, it seems like I remember someone doing this once in a tray of brass chips. (Clickspring maybe??) Is either method better than the other, or does it just depend on the job at hand? Again, thank you for sharing. Great video.
Joe
Hi Joe…your questions are great...Boxwood is a very heavy, tight grain wood, with consistent light yellow color throughout. Suitable for nearly all aspects of model ship building(from Google)…that is where my scrap supply comes from…many years ago I built a copy of the Hanna hull(Hanna was the first ship Washington commissioned into the American Navy...it was a converted Marblehead Tap Heel Schooner…my wife is from Marblehead) the boxwood lap I use is part of a screw polishing set and it is end grain boxwood and is a very nice finishing lap.
The hole for tapered pin was measured from the center point of the pin when positioned correctly…I have never tapered a hole…and I never tap them into position very hard…especially when used on the key end of an arbor…I use a spring washer which makes positioning and installing very simple…it is kinda like a screw slot being buggered up…a tapered pin driven home gets kinda buggered up and never returns looking too good…and I do not always have the same color brass pins to match up right…best to always use the original…I’m working on a Seth Thomas movement right now and the face plate is held by tapered pins, no spring washers, so I make sure the hole is positioned vertically and the thick end of the taper is on the top and a very slight tap into position.
I use a screw plate for screws but I do have a chip pan to blue hands and other parts…I like my alcohol lamp for heating screws…bit more difficult with the chip pan. Please remember there are lots of ways to complete a task…I kinda go with what I have on hands and have done before.
Still playing around with 3d printer...but slacking off a bit on learning Fusion 360...never enough time...bob
Joe I’m sorry, I thought I answered your questions last week when to my surprise I just found your questions unanswered…I must have had a senior moment and not actually posted my response.
Boxwood is the traditional watchmaker’s lap in a screw polishing attachment…the boxwood end grain is used as the lapping surface…also model shipmaker’s like it as it can be shaped easily..I made a model ship hull years ago and have a small supply of boxwood I use for polishing things like threads….Last night I cut the oil sinks for the wheels and later on you will see me form a polishing stick especially for oil sinks.
I use tapered pins regularly but only use tapered holes where accuracy is concerned…but for securing parts a plain through hole is fine...in fact I like tapered pins as it makes finding the hole easier.
I have a bluing pan (maybe 2 or more) I use for hands and other shaped parts…but I use my screwplate and a small alcohol burner for screws as most of the time I am bluing very small screws.
Well there you go…I hope I can post this answer correctly…thanks Joe…bob
Hey Bob. I thought you answered this too. I remember reading the response. Who knows. So where would one buy boxwood?
Model builders use a site like this:www.dlumberyard.com/wood.htmlIf I did not have boxwood left over from the Hannah build I would use popcycle sticks...bob