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Yes it is. I could save and restore many wooden parts of the cabin from 1938. As far as I know the design was altered in 1947.

Thank you very much.

I'M an absolute beauty.

Danke!

Ordinary mahogany wood, no special preparation. In Germany these veneers are available in different lengths and thicknesses from many specialized retailers. Sheets bend nicely, so you could even pack them into parcels.

What a great pleasure to read this. Thank you. And yes, I can't wait for next summer to come.

We are not talking about traditional boatbuilding or restoration. The method itself must not be applied as the only measure to restore a hull, especially when planking is too thin and in bad shape. Not only were all frames replaced, but subsequently my boat was covered with mahogany planking, 2 layers, 1,5mm each. (separate video on this) DAMIA and I experienced two seasons so far with sailing and regattas on the Baltic Sea - the boat proved to be very stiff and tough. Not even a suggestion of mechanical damage.

@@vonhier My God! Two layers. Then you have definitely got a too heavy boat according to class rule, but maybe you are allright with that. Anyway it is nobodys business but the owners. I owned a dragon many years ago, and the classk is fun to sail. I have owned 3 such wooden boats, old classic types, different classes, but all of them a ton of work every year before the sailing season started. I always however felt it was worth the work, there are no finer boats than the classics. Pure asthetic! And a dream to sail. Well, you have done a marvellous work, and I wish you many happy cruises and regattas! :-)

@@knutknutsen5610 Thanks for your kind response, Knut. When the boat was built it had a white finish. Over decades several owner wanted to see that "wooden look" . As a consequence almost all planks lost >3mm in thickness compared to the construction plans by Johan Anker. And the rivets hit to the surface. I don't think we are too heavy at sea. After all the waterline matched the old one from 1938.

@@vonhier yes some boats were built in Mahogany but a lot of them in Oregon Pine. The latter were always painted white. Some owners didn’t get the idea, and thought they could recreate a Mahogany hull. I’ve seen such examples myself. When the plugs get too thin you have only to do what you did. But then one has to be young and have a great spirit of optimism. ;-) Anyway, you have a wonderful boat. And it sounds like you are within the class rule after all. In any case, you should not be restricted, only awarded a small handycap if any reaction at all.

These light racing boat hulls were not designed to be caulked. Some even had glued seams from the beginning.

Thank you. Filling the seams followed by planking finally made the boat very stiff and torsion-resistant. Sailing her on the Baltic Sea last month we cleaved big waves and enjoyed it.

Hi. I was lucky to get my pair reasonably priced from a dealer who had the two portholes in stock for decades. But I also have seen similar portholes like this on toplicht.de

This is Devlinboats: www.devlinkits.com/index.php/hikashop-menu-for-categories-listing/category/17-micro-petrel - (My own boat is for sale now, but has no site. :-)

Yes. I did the whole hull. this was my preparation for the following steps: planking the hull with two thin layers of mahogany - so called "modern restoration". The boat is sealed. No swelling or cracking.

@@vonhier ah ok I understand. Haven’t seen the veneering part yet

Dankesehr.

Epifanes Mono-Urethane

​ 🎉@@vonhier

Maybe the reason is that YT is no search engine but a video platform. 😉

@@vonhier I guess I'll keep trying later. Using Chrome on a phone, closest I found is Shed Videos apparently has one. Cross referencing with Sam Devlin's website, it looks like the same guy. That's searching Sam Devlin boats RUclips, and Sam Devlin RUclips. Lots of results for Sam Devlin boats youtube, but it's not his videos apparently, it's other people building his designs. Like I said the one video he might be in is posted by Shed videos. On Chrome your video actually popped up fairly early. But nothing from him yet.

Meanwhile I do not pre steam at all. But it is essential that you use naturally dried wood, only. The molecular structure of industrially steam dried wood is spoilt by the rapid and very hot drying process. In most cases this wood will not tolerate narrow curves.

Hi, I used West Epoxy Resin No 105 und West Epoxy Hardener No. 205. (If you want the epoxy to cure slowly you may use hardener No. 206). To make a sticky glue from the resin you have to add Microfibers West System No. 403. Greetings from Germany by Ulrich

Danke sehr. Ich werde das Lob auch an Karl weiter geben.

Thank you very much!

@@vonhier 👍👍👍

Gracias. Demasiado del honor - zuviel der Ehre.

Hi, I sealed the nuts with epoxy. Corrosion indeed is a topic where stainless steel and iron meet in the presence of sea water. I don't expect contact where the bolts are but there will be some risk in the area on top of the keel near the keel plank. I asked some boatbuilders who have been doing this for many years. The SS bolts should have a uncritical lifespan of at least 20 years - good enough for me. Maybe the bolts should be checked then. Yes, one has to be very careful tightening nuts on SS bolts because SS is brittle and will not tolerate if you overtighten the nuts. But in the given situation this was no risk because the nuts were fixed against the floor planks - a resilient material. Estimated torque only.

@@vonhier Hi again, thanks a lot for your answer.

Ich habe mit dem Boot den Restaurierungspreis 2021 des "Freundeskreis Klassischer Yachten" fky.org erhalten und auch noch in der Bootsklasse die Regatta in Laboe bei den German Classics gewonnen. Einer meiner ältesten Freund riet mir: "Kein neues Bootsprojekt anfangen." Wahrscheinlich hat er recht. Aber Ruhestand ist auch nicht drin!

@@vonhier Wow!!! Dann nochmal Herzlichen Glueckwunsch und das als nicht ausgebildeter Bootsbauer! Ich habe dich als meine Motivationsquelle entdeckt;)

Yes. I fastened the frames with screws (countersunk heads, stainless steel V4A, Torx). This was possible because I covered the ugly heads when laminating the hull later on. My planks had been sanded to many times and were not thick enough to cover the screws with wooden plugs instead. I assume the epoxy glue will provide most of the strength but 2 screws per plank obtain best contact between plank and frame - especially where there is no room for clamps.

@@vonhier is it possible to fasten them from the inside of the boat? I mean, putting screws from the inside, by being careful not to go all through the plank thickness? so in short; epoxy glue + screws from the inside towards outside.

@@NoChrReq I would not expect a suitable binding from this because the working part of the screw inside the plank is very short. In fact, using this method to my understanding will only keep the frame in place until the epoxy has cured. Maybe okay for short boats and when the planks are in good condition.

Danke. Sie bekommt in einer Woche an der Ostsee Ihren neuen Mast. Ich kann es kaum erwarten ...

@@vonhier Kann ich mich vorstellen nach so ein Zeit,Spannend hoffen das alles so passt wie mann sich das vorgestellt hat. Wo last du den Mast bauen ? Wir renovieren ein alte 20 Jollenkreuzer (Jahrgang unbekannt; vermutlich vor 1960) und da fehlt auch der Mast.

@@Leemkuil16 Mein Mast wurde von Uli Schütte gemacht. Niendorf an der Ostsee. Er ist Bootsbauer und hat als Meisterstück einen Drachen gebaut. Er hat viel Erfahrung. Wahrscheinlich zu weit weg für Dich, oder?

@@vonhier Danke für den Tip. Wir wohnen im Großraum Hamburg und segeln mit unsere Alte H-Jolle in Plön, da ist Niendorf nicht weit :)

Thank you!

Plans are copyrighted. See video description where you can get the plans.

Thank you. I still love this little boat.

Danke für das Lob.

Special word of praise from an expert. Thank you very much!

Thank you for the bland words. On top of a very small and low cabin I wanted it to be that way.

In der Videobeschreibung ist die Webseite mit Kontaktmöglichkeit verlinkt. Schreib mir einfach eine Mail und wir telefonieren.

Holzhandlung vor Ort. Ich habe allerdings auch das Glück, dass eine der besten Holzhandlungen der Republik nur 1km von meiner Werkstatt entfernt ist. Man kann vor Ort in Ruhe aussuchen und die vorhandenen Mengen sind so groß, dass man nicht auf Vorrat kaufen muss.

Thank you.

I have not tried this yet. The secret to polishing bronze or brass with agents like "Davey Shine" is to prepare the metal with the chemical reaction I have shown. Maybe you can use gloves and a swab for some minutes. Adjacent structures (wood etc.) must be masked and protected perfectly.

Toilet cleaner as sold. No chemicals added.

Danke. Ich brauchte damals ein kleines Beiboot. Die Pläne habe ich bei www.devlinboats.com gekauft.

🙂 oh, sorry 😷

@@vonhier You deal with the real thing faster than I deal with a 1-72nd scale model!

Danke für das Lob.

@@vonhier 👍 Bitteschön, gern geschehen! Ich habe als österreichischer Binnenländer nur mäßich Ahnung von Booten, bei den Pionieren lernte ich vor ca. 40 Jahren das nau- & gegen-wärts Starken und fahren mit Ein- & Zwei-Mann Stechpaddel mit der traditionellen Donauzille. Ich wünsche dir viel Spaß und Freude an deinem Drachen! Grüße aus der Wachau!

it is 6mm Brynzeel Plywood (see 02:24). Plans available by Sam Devlin, only.

@@vonhier ok....no problem to buy these plans?

@@vadimlazarov6292 no problem. (see video description.)

Ich habe mit verschiedenen Methoden experimentiert. Hobel, per Hand und leichtere Geräte. Mit diesem Gerät ging es für mich am besten.

@@vonhier fläche musst glat sein ,und mit dein machine ist schwer

Only a few more months to go. We`ll be on the water next spring.