[11] Refurbishing an iron cast keel for my wooden Dragon sailboat
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- 1 ton of cast iron - made back in 1938. It took me 5 months to overhaul the iron cast keel, replacing the keel bolts and mount the whole thing again. Just like in my other videos this is no instructional content but just video footage from my project. Handling heavy items like this can be very dangerous. I had a lucky escape when the keel capsized just while I was coating it. I should have fastened it to the steel rack shown in my video before getting so close to this big piece of iron. Another case of: Do it right the first time! At the end of this video the iron cast keel is in place and sealed with interface coat and 6 other layers of epoxy based coatings. Did we weld the bolts to the iron keel? No, we did not. Nuts have been welded to the bolts to fix them nuts in place.
(music: some of you by GrandBankss YT)
![[1] My Wooden Dragon restoration: Filling planking seams with wood](/img/1.gif)
My little Billing Boats Dragon... I really must finish refurbishing that now. I put it together in 1967 when I was eleven years old... now I'm sixty five. 'Who knows where the time goes?'
🙂 oh, sorry 😷
@@vonhier You deal with the real thing faster than I deal with a 1-72nd scale model!
Hi, i am going to be removing the keel from my Van de stadt Pioneer 9 to replace the keel bolts, my keel arrangement is somewhat similar to yours, i have 6 main keel bolts that pass thru channels inside the keel, plus 2 more bolts, aft and forward, that are screwed on the keel itself. the main bolts are 1 inch diameter, the fwd bolt is 3/4 inch and the aft one is 1/2 inch. i am curious to know what material did they use on your keel to bury/isolate the bottom nut from the seawater. i noticed you used stainless steel for your new keel bolts. the research i did was a bit inconclusive as to what material is best. some people think that SS is good enough, others do not agree. it is a fact that if SS gets exposed to seawater and in close proximity to the cast iron corrosion will start and it will not be visible at the top. i chose to go with mild steel. i saw you used a impact driver, did you torque the bolts to their specification?
Hi, I sealed the nuts with epoxy. Corrosion indeed is a topic where stainless steel and iron meet in the presence of sea water. I don't expect contact where the bolts are but there will be some risk in the area on top of the keel near the keel plank. I asked some boatbuilders who have been doing this for many years. The SS bolts should have a uncritical lifespan of at least 20 years - good enough for me. Maybe the bolts should be checked then.
Yes, one has to be very careful tightening nuts on SS bolts because SS is brittle and will not tolerate if you overtighten the nuts. But in the given situation this was no risk because the nuts were fixed against the floor planks - a resilient material. Estimated torque only.
@@vonhier Hi again, thanks a lot for your answer.
horrorjob. gut gemacht
Dankesehr.
Nice job Ulrich, I'm sure you did everything correctly including attaching a pair of sacrificial anodes so I wont ask if you did that :-)
You know, because your keel is iron and your bolts are stainless steel ... hehehe
I'm a metallurgical engineer with a love of real boats.
That is right. Zinc anodes will be attached to both sides of the keel - the holes are already in place. She will sail in saltwater, so there will be also a galvanic separation between onboard electric circuits and the charging device circuit. This is a lesson I learned when leaking currents in the harbour almost killed many metallic materials inside my old Folkeboat.
Hallo Ullrich, tolle Arbeit, wie immer, aber am meisten bewundere ich Deinen Lagerbock!
Danke sehr. Ja, der Lagerbock ist sehr komfortabel, jetzt schon.
@@vonhier wie hast Du den gebaut? Skizze? Unnd was für Rollen? Mein Segelbbooot wiegt nur 1,2 Tonnen, ich würde das auch so machen wollen. Nur selber bauen ist eben günstiger als einen Lagerbock zu kaufen denke ich.
@@vonhier darüber könntest du auch einen Beitrag machen , über den Bau... ;-)
@@tinosenf6937 ruclips.net/video/YGbG_95tLg4/видео.html
@@tinosenf6937 Dein Rollwagen steht beim Rangieren und beim Überwinden von Schwellen unweigerlich auch mal auf nur 3 Rollen, die dann 1/3 von 1200kg tragen müssen - also brauchst Du auch Profi-Rollen. Meine sind von Torwegge, Produktnummer 0021246. Also ein paar Leimbinder, Bolzen, Blech und los geht es ... (Ein Video gibt es schon - Link habe ich in der andern Antwort)
Hallo Ulrich , super deine Filme und Einsatz. Haette ich blos nicht das Schiff an dich verkauft haha ! Du schafst es. Gr Freddy ( The Netherlands )
Ich muss! Du weißt doch, dass wir beide mit dem Boot zusammen segeln wollen.